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Searching for solutions: In New Mexico, researchers seek to make brackish water a viable supply – NM Political Report

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Searching for solutions: In New Mexico, researchers seek to make brackish water a viable supply – NM Political Report


Heading through eastern New Mexico, dairy cattle can be seen in farms beside the highway while flashing lights illuminate the wind farms at night. Large sprinklers irrigate the crop circles where, in the spring, the endangered lesser prairie chickens may venture out of the brush onto the fields to dance while keeping a close eye on the sky for the hawks that hunt overhead. 

Farther south, oil wells become more common than windmills. 

Beneath all of this lies a giant underground lake that gives life to the region and has allowed it to become one of the top crop producing areas of the state and the fifth leading cheese producing region in the country. But that aquifer—the Ogallala—is quickly being depleted. 

Faced with their depleting wells, farmers in eastern New Mexico are increasingly turning to dryland farming methods.

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“Farming with limited irrigation is a challenge, and it is a greater challenge to produce crops in a

strict dryland situation,” John D’Antonio said. “However, half of the eastern New Mexico farms have already been turned into dryland production.”

D’Antonio is a former New Mexico state engineer and now runs the company American West Water Advisors, which has a contract with the Lea County Soil and Water Conservation District to investigate the use of brackish – or salty – water to supplement dwindling supplies in the Ogallala Aquifer, which underlies six New Mexico counties as well as portions of seven other states including Colorado, South Dakota, Kansas and Wyoming.

“The Ogallala Aquifer in New Mexico is the most economically important groundwater source in

eastern New Mexico and is the primary driver for crop production in the High Plains region,” he told NM Political Report. 

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D’Antonio’s team has repurposed abandoned oil and gas wells in the heavily drilled Permian Basin to access naturally-occuring brackish water aquifers. Those aquifers tend to be deeper than the freshwater sources. To reach the brackish supplies, D’Antonio is using repurposed oil wells that can reach far deeper than even the deepest irrigation water wells.

D’Antonio said the six New Mexico counties overlying the Ogallala Aquifer provide a third of all the agricultural cash receipts in the state, including more than a quarter of the crop cash receipts. That makes it a valuable part of the state’s economy that could be jeopardized by the declining availability of water.

“The Ogallala Aquifer is heavily pumped for irrigation of various agricultural crops that support

farming and livestock industries, which, in turn, sustain the many small- to medium-sized cities

dotted throughout eastern New Mexico,” D’Antonio said.

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Some of the crops grown there include corn, sorghum, wheat, triticale and alfalfa.

But, for decades, water levels in the New Mexico portion of the Ogallala have experienced what D’Antonio described as “long-term, serious decline.”

According to an Ogallala Summit white paper from March 2024, researchers sampled 121 wells in New Mexico’s Curry and Roosevelt counties from 2004 to 2007 and then again from 2010 to 2015. The samples indicated an estimated loss of about 2 million acre-feet of water in the aquifer and the average loss was about 277,586 acre-feet per year. About 75% of those 121 wells in the two  counties experienced declining water levels.

“Well capacities are increasingly becoming less capable of supplying enough water to grow high water demand crops such as corn,” the white paper states.

Filtration and reverse osmosis systems are among the tools available for research inside the main bay of The Brackish Groundwater National Desalination Research Facility on Tuesday, May 7, 2024, in Alamogordo, New Mexico. (Photo by Liam DeBonis for NM Political Report)

To make matters more complicated, there are very few sources of surface water in eastern New Mexico to supplement the dwindling groundwater.

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And it isn’t just the Ogallala Aquifer that is in decline. As water supplies become more strained—not just in the eastern part of the state, but throughout New Mexico—supplies that were previously considered unusable are getting increasing attention from government officials desperate to fulfill current demands, and spur future economic development. 

D’Antonio’s team is not the only group studying the use of brackish water in New Mexico. Pilot projects have been in the works since at least 2007 when the Brackish Groundwater National Desalination Research Facility was established in Alamogordo to provide a place for research. But now that work has a new sense of urgency. 

With water being one of the major limiting factors to future economic growth, New Mexico officials are looking to the vast, but largely untapped and unstudied, brackish aquifers.

This is part of what is known as the strategic water supply, a proposal that Gov. Michelle Lujan Grisham announced in November 2023. 

The strategic water supply

Sydney Lienemann, Deputy Secretary of Administration for New Mexico’s Environment Department, said that one of the pillars of the 50-year water plan that Lujan Grisham unveiled in January is providing approximately 150,000 acre-feet of new water to New Mexico per year.

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To do so, New Mexico is looking at treated brackish water as well as treated produced water, a byproduct of oil and gas production.

Lienemann said one policy lever New Mexico has to accomplish the goal is by using what she described as commitments from industries seeking to buy water to incentivize development of previously unused water sources, such as brackish water. Essentially, the state will have contracts with companies that need water and that will provide a guaranteed customer for the companies treating the water.

“The administration’s proposal for (the strategic water supply) is not to fund the infrastructure itself or to finance the construction of these produced water or brackish water treatment plants, but rather to provide a guaranteed purchaser of the water at the end of treatment as a way to de-risk the upfront capital investment that treatment companies would need to take on,” she said.

Lienemann compared this arrangement to governments promising to purchase vaccines if companies will do the research and build the companies to manufacture the vaccines.

State funds will only be available to purchase the treated water if it meets predefined water quality standards that will be determined based on the end use.

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Lienemann said New Mexico does not want to “stay in the business of owning that water.” Instead, the state plans to sell the treated water to identified end users who are currently unknown, similar to how a water wholesaler would act. She said having access to the treated water will allow New Mexico to recruit the end users. Under the current proposal, those end users would likely be hydrogen power generators or manufacturers of renewable energy technology.

“We want to reduce the pressure on our potable water, and this is one way to do it, while supporting the administration’s priorities to help with the clean energy transition,” Lienemann said. “So that is, are there ways that we can desalinate brackish water to do manufacturing of solar cells? Are there ways that we can treat produced water in a closed loop manner to generate hydrogen for energy storage?”

But the use of state funds for the strategic water supply requires legislative approval, which the governor has not yet secured. Lujan Grisham proposed using $500 million to fund the strategic water supply.

A University of Texas El Paso experiment uses brackish water to cool solar panels at the Brackish Groundwater National Desalination Research Facility in Alamogordo, New Mexico, in an effort to increase their efficiency. The returning water, which is fed through red piping, is heated in the process, which makes it easier to treat. (Photo by Liam DeBonis for NM Political Report)

Funding and the state legislature

Rep. Nathan Small, D-Las Cruces, is the chairman of the House Appropriations and Finance Committee and the vice chair of the interim Legislative Finance Committee. Small is one of the legislators who supports using brackish water to augment the dwindling freshwater supplies.

He emphasized the importance of work to “enhance protections” for the existing supplies of freshwater.

“We have to be ready to use our budget to safeguard what we have,” he said.

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New Mexico’s rivers were recently ranked as the most endangered in the country due to a recent U.S. Supreme Court decision that stripped Clean Water Act protections from ephemeral streams.

Small said the state budget should be used to maximize the efficiency of existing sources of freshwater. Some of the ways that New Mexico has worked to maximize efficiency include lining ditches with concrete to reduce water loss and removing invasive plants from banks.

“But, as we look to diversify and grow our economy, particularly when it comes to zero-carbon solutions…we’re going to need water,” he said.

In part due to federal incentives, New Mexico has seen increased interest in clean energy manufacturing including solar cells and wind turbines.

Small said companies that might be interested in locating in New Mexico to manufacture batteries or electric vehicles or other products needed for the energy transition will need water and, in some cases, those industries have high demands for water.

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“I know that it’s very challenging for New Mexico to consider sort of slicing the freshwater pie even further. And so that’s a place where I think that treated brackish water fits for purpose… that’s where I think that brackish water really fundamentally is central to the state,” he said.

He said some industries may need lower salinity than others and that the treatment processes can be tailored for the end use.

At the same time, Small said New Mexico needs to follow and invest in science and implement safeguards. While the governor proposed $500 million for the strategic water supply, investing in science will require additional state funds for projects like aquifer mapping.

He said he would like more details about a timeline for developing the strategic water supply if a bill is brought to the legislature in the future.

In the interim, he said that he is beginning to see early engagement with stakeholders that is “essentially putting all the questions out there” and providing an open forum for discussion around the proposed strategic water supply. And, Small said, there is positive and innovative research occurring across New Mexico, including at universities like New Mexico State University and New Mexico Institute of Mining and Technology.

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He said it is important to take an “all of the above” approach toward water and that focusing on treating brackish water should not come at the expense of watershed restoration.

Small also said it is important to fund efforts to study the aquifers, including aquifer mapping.

Aquifer mapping

One of the biggest unknowns with the treatment of brackish water is how much is available and what its composition is.

D’Antonio said there needs to be more aquifer mapping done.

Former State Engineer Mike Hamman, said that if a well is deeper than 2,500 feet and is drilled into an aquifer that is considered to be in an undeclared basin for non-potable water sources, the Office of the State Engineer requires companies to file a notice of intent to drill a well. 

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“Then there will be requirements, once the well is completed, to meter and monitor the volume of water that’s pulled out of that,” Hamman said. “And we would do that to protect any surrounding freshwater aquifers and also to assure that there would be no residual impacts to river flows or anything along that line.”

Hamman said he is aware of three pilot wells for brackish water that have been drilled. Those include two in Sandoval County and one in the Santa Teresa area of southern New Mexico.

Staci Timmons, the Associate Director of the New Mexico Bureau of Geology and Mineral Resources, said that in 2016 her agency worked to compile existing water quality data to try to characterize the brackish water aquifers in New Mexico.

She said statewide questions still exist about aquifer depth, water quality, recharge time and long-term usability.

“There’s certainly, we think, a good amount of brackish water because many of our rocks are salt bearing formations, and as you go deeper, we would expect that as the water is moving through lots of deep layers and longer flow paths, it’ll pick up greater mineral content and get saltier,” Timmons said. “But we generally don’t have a crystal clear view of exactly what the brackish water looks like.”

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There are places in the state where the brackish water aquifers are a bit better understood.

For example, Timmons said, in the Estancia Basin east of Albuquerque, there is brackish water close to the surface.

“We’ve never really invested in the basic characterization that needs to happen for us to just jump ahead into brackish water yet,” Timmons said.

She said there’s still a lot of work to do on aquifer characterization, including mapping and determining how deep the brackish water supplies are. That will require a significant investment from the state. In 2023, Timmons told state lawmakers that the New Mexico Bureau of Geology and Mineral Resources would need $1.25 million annually to hire eight employees to build and maintain an aquifer mapping and monitoring program. On top of that, it would need between $4 million and $10 million a year for ten years to install exploratory and monitoring wells.

One reason this is important is because brackish water supplies could interact with freshwater sources such as rivers or other aquifers. That could compromise the very freshwater sources that the strategic water supply hopes to protect.

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Timmons gave the example of a hypothetical brackish water aquifer that interacts with the Pecos River. Developing the hypothetical brackish water aquifer could have downstream implications and even threaten compact compliance, she said. This could occur if there is a connection between the brackish aquifer and the freshwater aquifers. Flows in the Pecos River are in part influenced by the underground aquifer. 

In some areas of the state, Timmons said, the brackish aquifers are not connected to any other source of water. In those places, the water is a nonrenewable resource.

She said if someone plans to invest millions of dollars on a desalination facility, they need to make sure that there is enough brackish water to last more than ten years.

“There has to be substantial research in any given location (where) we want to explore desal,” she said.

But just knowing where the brackish supplies are and how much water is in the aquifers is not enough. Timmons said it’s also important to know what chemical constituents are in the brackish water.

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“It’s not just your plain old you know, sodium chloride, seawater,” she said. “You also have things like silicate minerals that are going to have to be filtered out you’re going to have different types of salts, not just sodium and chloride, you might have calcium and sulfate instead. So those molecules are going to require different treatment technologies.”

A small bird floats on an evaporation pond, which collects sediments from brackish water as it evaporates, at The Brackish Groundwater National Desalination Research Facility on Tuesday, May 7, 2024, in Alamogordo, New Mexico. (Photo by Liam DeBonis)

It’s also important for people to know how drawing the brackish water out from beneath the surface will impact the ground. 

In the Deming area, pumping of groundwater—even freshwater supplies—has led to what is known as subsidence where the ground sinks. 

“We still need to fully map our aquifers in New Mexico and develop groundwater and surface water models to better manage this resource,” D’Antonio said. “That will require measuring and metering our water use along with monitoring our groundwater elevations.”

Metropolitan areas 

As New Mexico looks to grow despite the arid environment and decreasing supplies, a couple of cities have looked toward the brackish water supplies as a possible solution.

For more than two decades, the City of Alamogordo has been studying the possibility of using desalination to treat brackish water. In 2000, Alamogordo filed an application with the Office of the State Engineer to use about 10,000 acre-feet of brackish groundwater from a series of wells in the Snake Tank field. Alamogordo’s brackish water reverse osmosis treatment plant took about two decades to complete.

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Farther north, Sandoval County began looking at treated brackish water for industrial purposes about two decades ago and contracted with a company based out of Scottsdale, Arizona, known as New Mexico Water, LLC. This company provided information to the New Mexico Environment Department this spring about their effort.

The company is hoping to develop a desalination and mineral recovery plant with an estimated price tag of $800 million at a location near Placitas. This effort is known as the Rio West Water Project and, while it has been in the works for years, it has been slow to materialize.

“Future development in the properties West of Albuquerque and Rio Rancho depends on making additional water sources available for industrial development including support of future data centers, green hydrogen facilities and others,” the company states in the information provided to the state.

New Mexico Water would take brackish supplies from the San Andreas/Glorieta unit, which is a confined aquifer about 3,500 feet below the surface in the southeastern San Juan Basin.

“Significant process engineering, hydro-geologic investigations and piloting have taken place on this endeavor over the last decade and a half to develop a sound and achievable project.” Gary Lee, the project engineer, said in a document submitted to NMED.

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Protecting agricultural producers

While D’Antonio supports the strategic water supply, he said there is a potential that the industrial use of brackish water could compete with agricultural uses.

“Depending on what projects or uses are prioritized, the industrial use of treated brackish water could compete for the same water that the agricultural users would attempt to use,” he said.  

D’Antonio said it could also open the door for increased opportunities to expand the use of treated brackish water into other regulated uses that could support economic development and even provide drought mitigation. 

Some of the examples he gave are growing grass on fallow lands to promote natural carbon sequestration and using the treated water from green hydrogen production, which is something the governor also highlighted when announcing the proposed strategic water supply.

Already, some agricultural producers rely on saline water supplies either for irrigation purposes or to provide water for livestock.

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Water storage tanks at The Brackish Groundwater National Desalination Research Facility on Tuesday, May 7, 2024, in Alamogordo, New Mexico. Photo by Liam DeBonis for NM Political Report.

Rebecca Roose, the governor’s infrastructure advisor, said there will be safeguards in any future strategic water supply legislation to ensure those agricultural supplies are not impacted.

“We’re talking about different water than the water that farmers have allocated and are relying upon,” she said.

Legislation that was introduced late in this year’s legislative session and failed to pass included a definition of brackish water that required it to be sourced from aquifers at least 2,500 feet below the surface and with total dissolved solid levels of at least 1,000 milligrams per liter.

“The depth of the well is one safeguard that we’ve identified to hardwire into the program so that it’s clear to everybody, including anybody who’s implementing the program from state agency level that we’re talking about these brackish wells, and those are unallocated sources of water,” Roose said.

Malynda Capelle manages the Brackish Groundwater National Desalination Research Facility in Alamogordo where researchers including universities and businesses are experimenting on ways to increase the efficiency of desalination.

There are ten different pads at the facility that can support individual projects and there are three storage tanks for brackish water.

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“The future water supplies will require some level of water treatment, possibly desalination,” she said.

This facility is unique. Capelle said she is not aware of anyone else who is doing the level of research on brackish water that is occurring at the facility in Alamogordo. However, there is a research facility that is looking at desalination of seawater in California and the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation also has a facility in Yuma, Arizona, that does small scale, internal research on desalination. 

“States like New Mexico and others, we need to get creative with figuring out different ways to fill up the bucket…we’re all going to be competing over the same freshwater sources. So I think we do need to get creative,” she said.

Capelle said that one of the main critiques she hears about desalination is that it is expensive and uses a lot of energy. She acknowledges that desalination is more expensive and energy intensive than freshwater treatment.

“Those were the easy sources. That’s why we use them first,” she said.

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At the same time, Capelle said other options are to pipe water hundreds of miles, which can be challenging, expensive and energy intensive.

D’Antonio also identified the cost of building a desalination facility and the energy required as some of the biggest challenges, along with finding the best option for disposing of the concentrate.

But, as a former state engineer and a member of the New Mexico Desalination Association, he sees opportunities for brackish water and the strategic water supply.

“Many western states are using desalination plants to augment their freshwater supplies,” D’Antonio said. “The Strategic Water Supply would greatly benefit New Mexico to aggressively jump into the desalination business by funding a few pilot projects around the state. This should be done in conjunction with ensuring the protection of public health and the environment of the treated brackish water reuse.”

This story was produced in partnership with The Water Desk, an independent initiative of the University of Colorado Boulder’s Center for Environmental Journalism.

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New Mexico’s proposed kids safety fixes for Instagram, Facebook may go too far, judge warns

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New Mexico’s proposed kids safety fixes for Instagram, Facebook may go too far, judge warns


The state judge overseeing New Mexico’s attempt to force a safety overhaul of Instagram and Facebook said Monday that he’s worried some of the proposed changes would amount to “overreach.”

New Mexico attorney general Raúl Torrez is pushing for extensive changes and up to $3.7 billion in penalties after a state jury ruled last month that Mark Zuckerberg’s Meta had failed to protect kids from sexual predators. Judge Bryan Biedscheid is presiding over a second trial to determine which of those requested remedies are appropriate.

“I am a judge, ​I am not a legislator, I am not a regulator,” Biedscheid said as the second phase began on Monday.

New Mexico Attorney General Raúl Torrez is pushing for a major safety overhaul of Instagram and Facebook. AP

Biedscheid added that his goal was to ensure any court-ordered fixes would address the proven harms of Instagram and Facebook without him becoming a “one-person legislature.”

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The judge will rule on whether Meta’s failings constitute a “public nuisance” under state law, which would allow him to order remedies. The jury previously ordered Meta to pay $375 million in damages.

“The changes we’re seeking are reasonable, achievable, and supported by child safety and technology experts,” Torrez said in a statement ahead of the trial. “There is no credible argument against them, only a company that has decided its bottom line matters more than the safety of kids.”

As The Post reported, Meta has already threatened to cut off access to Instagram and Faceook entirely if the judge orders “impractical” safety features to be implemented. The social media giant claims Torrez’s “requests for relief are so broad and so burdensome” that no one could realistically comply with them.

Meta says the state’s proposals are impossible to implement. REUTERS
Meta Platforms CEO Mark Zuckerberg arrives outside court to take the stand at trial in a key test case. REUTERS

Torrez fired back, asserting that Meta’s threats were little more than a PR stunt and that the company was “showing the world how little it cares about child safety.”

New Mexico’s proposed fixes include implementing an effective age verification process for accounts; recommendation algorithms that prioritize user safety over boosting how much time they spend on the apps; and limits on end-to-end encrypted messaging for minors.

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State officials also want Meta to display warning labels about the risks of using its apps and an independent oversight committee to ensure the company’s compliance. Meta “would be held to a 99% detection rate for new child sexual abuse material,” according to the state.

A Meta spokesperson said the state’s demands are “technically impractical, impossible for any company to meet and disregard the realities of the internet.”

Judge Bryan Biedscheid appears skeptical of the state’s proposed fixes. AP

Experts previously told the Post that Meta’s threat to cut off the apps entirely, while technically feasible, would make the situation even messier for the company.

“I think a blackout in one state would be comically easy to circumvent – for example, with a VPN,” Ryan Calo, a professor at the University of Washington focused on the intersection of law and technology, said last week. “Who is responsible when, invariably, New Mexico residents continue to access Facebook? And of course, they would still have to pay for prior behavior in the state.”

WIth Post wires

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As parks increase but budget stays flat, mayor says city of Santa Fe needs to have ‘hard conversations’

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As parks increase but budget stays flat, mayor says city of Santa Fe needs to have ‘hard conversations’


Santa Fe residents’ desire for cleaner, better-maintained parks was on display during a recent meeting about this year’s Fourth of July fireworks show at Franklin Miles Park.

Several people asked if the city would make improvements to the park ahead of the celebration. One man didn’t mince words: “Right now, it’s pretty awful,” he said.

Mayor Michael Garcia’s administration is set to present this week the proposed city spending plan for fiscal year 2027, which he has said will shift work away from contractors to in-house city staff, including in the Parks and Open Space Division.

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Paige Grant, right, takes one for the team as she teaches fifth and sixth graders from Aspen Community School about the watershed by getting doused during a gardening event at Alto Park.

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Ongoing conversation







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Fifth and sixth graders from Aspen Community School paint rocks to decorate the pollinator gardens at Alto Park during an event last month.

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Meeting service goals







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Fifth and sixth graders from Aspen Community School painted rocks to decorate the pollinator gardens at Alto Park.

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How Santa Fe compares







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10 Historic Restaurants In New Mexico Every Foodie Should Visit – Chowhound

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10 Historic Restaurants In New Mexico Every Foodie Should Visit – Chowhound






New Mexico is blessed with rich culinary traditions connected to the many cultures that have settled there, from the First Peoples to the Spaniards, miners, railway builders, and Route 66 migrants. I’m a repeat visitor to The Land of Enchantment who is lucky to have friends living in Santa Fe, Albuquerque, and Las Cruces. With every meal I eat in New Mexico, I’m deeply impressed by the complexity of the state’s cuisine and the centuries-old traditions that have shaped and defined it.

My friends and I make it our quest to eat at places that offer not just fabulous food but also a taste of New Mexico’s history. Some are housed in buildings dating back almost 400 years. Others are 19th-century saloons on the National Register of Historic Places or vintage diners that fed thousands of 20th-century road-trippers. Many are heritage eateries operated by the third and fourth generations of New Mexican families. Dine at any of these spots, and you’ll come away with an authentic taste of the state and a deeper appreciation of its enchanting history.

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1. The Mine Shaft Tavern in Madrid

Few dishes are more cherished by New Mexicans than the green chile cheeseburger. So, it makes sense to order one at The Mine Shaft Tavern, which is located in a town that oozes Land of Enchantment history. Today, the Madrid-based restaurant still holds its 1940s-era role as a social hub, eatery, and boot-stomping music venue, and it’s famous in ghost-hunting circles for being one of the historic taverns across the U.S. with a haunted history. Patrons vie for standing room at the 40-foot-long wooden bar that’s also oddly tall – built high enough so a miner could stand and stretch his aching back while knocking back a whiskey.

The tavern’s best bite is the massive Mad Chile Burger made with Wagyu beef, buffalo, or a veggie patty. Topped with velvety cheese, chopped green chiles, and a whole, fried Hatch chile, the burger is big enough for two. If you aren’t driving, ask the bartender to whip up a Mad Chile Margarita, a sweet-hot concoction of tequila, lime, and jalapeño. Sip it slowly so you remember to pronounce “Madrid” properly, with the accent on the first syllable (not like the Spanish city).

https://www.themineshafttavern.com/
(505) 473-0743
2846 Hwy 14, Madrid, NM 87010

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2. Legal Tender Saloon and Eating House in Lamy

New Mexico has plenty of old saloons, but only a handful have the historic cred to be listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and the Legal Tender Saloon holds that honor. Being one of New Mexico’s oldest operating bars, it was built in 1881 and served passengers on the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway. Legend has it that in the saloon’s first year, Billy the Kid visited after he escaped from the Lincoln County Jail.

The adobe and stone structure wears an Old West facade that looks straight out of a Hollywood movie set. During a major renovation in 2023, the saloon’s Victorian relics were polished and pampered. Now, the wood-and-brass Brunswick bar, ornate chandeliers, and gold-framed mirrors shine like an Instagram dream.

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Even with its storied past on full display, the Legal Tender’s biggest draw is its short-but-thoughtful menu. Serious carnivores should start right in on something like the green chile burger, but I prefer to linger over the cocktail menu. My favorite drink is the Manhattan Project, a smoky rye-whisky cocktail served in a chemistry flask, which is a cheeky nod to New Mexico’s nuclear bomb history. Then, I move on to the House Smoked Pork Quesadilla with asadero cheese, chipotle sauce, and guacamole. My Santa Fe friend orders green chile stew (and that’s “chile” spelled the New Mexican way – always with an “e”). 

https://legaltenderlamy.com
(505) 466-1650
151 Old Lamy Trail, Lamy, NM 87540

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3. La Plazuela in Santa Fe

A mainstay of downtown Santa Fe, La Plazuela’s dining room dates back to 1922, and the clock seems to have stopped right then. This airy, light-filled atrium in the heart of La Fonda on the Plaza is decorated with folk art-painted glass windows, ficus trees, a wrought-iron chandelier, and a Spanish-style fountain. The space has such a timeless elegance that it seems like blasphemy to pull out your cell phone.

La Plazuela’s menu is an encyclopedia of New Mexico’s most iconic dishes. Although you can’t go wrong with almost any order, a few dishes stand out. The tortilla soup has a flavorful broth brimming with chicken, avocado, cheese, and tortilla strips, while the carne asada tampiqueña is remarkably tender. Chile rellenos made with Hatch green chiles are dunked in a smoky red sauce with just the right amount of heat.

I can never resist ordering the tableside guacamole, either. I know my way around an avocado, but La Plazuela’s servers perform a riveting sleight-of-hand with the knobby green fruit. Seconds after wheeling out their cart, they cut, mash, and mix in roasted garlic, diced tomato, diced jalapeño, lime, cilantro, onion, and salt. The guacamole show is accomplished with photo-worthy flair, and the result tastes better than anything I can make at home.

https://lafondasantafe.com/la-plazuela/
(505) 995-2334
100 E San Francisco St, Santa Fe, NM 87501

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4. The Shed in Santa Fe

Stepping into The Shed feels like visiting your cool aunt’s house (if your cool aunt lived in Santa Fe). With its warren of small rooms, vibrantly colored rafters, low doorways, and a courtyard lit by twinkling lights, every aspect of this café — especially its cherished family recipes — oozes with Southwestern vibes.

Located steps from Santa Fe Plaza, The Shed’s adobe hacienda in Prince Patio dates to 1692, when Spanish colonists reclaimed Santa Fe as their own. The Carswell family has owned the restaurant since 1953, and the third generation upholds their grandparents’ hallowed culinary wisdom: They buy their chiles straight from the farm and grind them on the premises. 

Garlic bread is served with every meal, which is convenient for dunking into sauces and stews. My favorite order is the richly satisfying green chile stew, loaded with tender pork and potatoes, but the posole is a close second. The pueblo-style soup is made with hunks of nixtamal (corn that is soaked in lime until it becomes what Americans call hominy), lean pork, and coarse red chile. My New Mexican friends order any dish made with soft, blue corn tortillas, but their hands-down favorite is tacos loaded rim to rim with green chile turkey sausage, cheddar, and onion. We always share an order or two of calabacitas, a zesty mix of squash, zucchini, onion, and chile.

https://sfshed.com
(505) 982-9030
113 ½ E Palace Ave, Santa Fe, NM 87501

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5. Rancho de Chimayó in Chimayó

Every year on Good Friday, the hamlet of Chimayó fills with 30,000 faithful pilgrims who arrive on foot after a long, dusty walk from towns far afield. Their finish line? A small plot of dirt at the El Santuario de Chimayó, which is said to have miraculous healing properties. The rest of the year, the small rural village is mostly empty except for shoppers seeking the colorful blankets made by Chimayó weavers.

Pilgrims, browsers, and foodies find common ground at Rancho de Chimayó, a pastoral hacienda owned by the Jaramillo family since the early 1700s. Diners sit in one of several small rooms or on the back patio and savor the Jaramillo family’s prized recipes, including sopaipilla relleno, a puffed-up, fried bread that’s stuffed with beef or chicken, beans, and Spanish rice and then smothered in red or green chile sauce.

Entrées come in epic proportions, so if you aren’t famished, order an unstuffed sopaipilla and pair it with green chile stew or carne adovada (tender pork marinated in red chile). I prefer the sopaipilla as a sweet side dish; it’s served with locally grown honey to pour on top. When you’re finished eating, browse the take-home treats in the hacienda’s gift shop. In December, you’ll find bags of cinnamon-dusted biscochitos, New Mexico’s state cookie, alongside shelves full of red chile sauce, piñon coffee beans, and blue corn pancake mix.

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https://www.ranchodechimayo.com
(505) 351-4444
300 Juan Medina Rd, Chimayó, NM 87522

6. The Original Owl Bar and Café in San Antonio

The Original Owl Bar and Café holds an unusual place in American history. In 1945, it was a hangout for the scientists who detonated the first atom bomb at New Mexico’s Trinity Site. Now run by fourth-generation owner Janice Argabright, the Owl Bar takes green chile very seriously, simmering its saucy concoction of chile, beef, and garlic for several hours each morning. Sometimes the chef uses Hatch chiles, sometimes Lemitar chiles (it’s worth noting that New Mexico is the only U.S. state where farmers can grow and sell Hatch chiles). New Mexicans have strong opinions about which type is hotter, smokier, or better, but to my palate, both are glorious.

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With The Original Owl Bar and Café being considered among the best hole-in-the-wall burger spots in the state, customers often order the signature Owl Burger, which is a cheeseburger that’s jam-packed with roasted green chile. Still, I’m occasionally willing to forego it so I can eat an entire serving of green chile cheese fries. They’re the ideal comfort food: gooey, melty cheese atop freshly fried potatoes, with a ladle of green chile sauce and a zippy touch of salt. 

When you visit, ask Argabright to tell you about her owl knick-knacks, and walk around and examine the dollar bills and business cards pinned to the walls. At the end of each year, she donates all the cash to charity.

https://sanantonioowl.com
(575) 835-9946
77 US Hwy 380, San Antonio, NM 87832

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7. Duran Central Pharmacy in Albuquerque

Only a few generations ago, the local pharmacy was the place where you could buy almost any sundries you needed and finish your shopping trip with lunch or a milkshake at the on-site diner counter. These hybrid drugstore-cafés aren’t as common anymore, but you’ll find a popular one in Albuquerque. The tradition lives on at Duran Central Pharmacy, where customers gaily nosh on chile-soaked enchiladas, carne adovada, and other Land of Enchantment favorites.

Pick up your prescriptions if you wish, but plenty of people come here just to sit on a barstool and watch the cooks prepare thick, hand-rolled tortillas. They’re made the traditional way on a comal (a griddle), handled by people who know how to wield a rolling pin. Walk within 50 feet of the kitchen, and the aroma of hot-off-the-griddle tortillas nearly bowls you over.

The pharmacy has been serving food since the 1960s, so you can expect mastery of almost every classic New Mexican dish. My Albuquerque friends always order a Frito pie. This old-timey classic is exactly what it sounds like: Fritos corn chips, beef or chicken, beans, chile, and cheese. I get the huevos rancheros (which are different from chilaquiles, by the way), consisting of two over-easy eggs perched atop cheesy potatoes and beans, swimming in a divine chile sauce. Unlike in most huevos rancheros recipes, the tortillas are not buried underneath; rather, they’re served alongside so you can fully appreciate their brilliance.

https://duransrx.com
(505) 247-4141
1815 Central Ave NW, Albuquerque, NM 87104

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8. La Cita in Tucumcari

During Route 66’s mid-20th-century heyday, the town of Tucumcari had 2,000 motels and plenty of eateries. When La Cita opened in 1940, south-of-the-border cuisine was not common across the United States. Thousands of drivers got their first taste of Mexican food right under La Cita’s kitschy neon sign.

Like other towns along Route 66, Tucumcari faced hard times after the interstate highways were completed in the 1980s. Motorists preferred the faster, more efficient roads, and traffic along Route 66 dropped off. Motels and diners were suddenly empty and forced to close. La Cita was one of the few that survived, and now there’s absolutely no way to miss it. The bright yellow building is topped with a giant sombrero.

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The kitchen serves dependable, friendly New Mexican food, choosing to forego the fancy stuff and cook the basics with integrity. Sizzling fajitas, saucy enchiladas, and stuffed chile rellenos are the front-line players here. Carne adovada (marinated pork in red chile with potatoes and beans) may be the best order, but you can’t go wrong with the stuffed sopaipillas, either.

https://www.lacitanm.com
(575) 461-7866
820 S 1st St, Tucumcari, NM 88401

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9. The Buckhorn Saloon and Opera House in Pinos Altos

Seven miles from Silver City, The Buckhorn Saloon and Opera House is an 1863 structure that opened near the end of the Civil War and served the booming mining town of Pinos Altos. Workers built walls 18 inches thick to help protect patrons in case Apache warriors attacked. Conflicts occurred frequently because the tribe saw the miners as destroyers of their homeland.

During the boom years, the area’s mines yielded $8 million worth of gold, silver, copper, lead, and zinc, but after the boom turned to bust, most residents moved away. The Buckhorn survived, and today it’s a storied watering hole and hotspot for buffalo burgers, prime rib, and hand-cut ribeye steaks. The saloon’s green chile stew is as good as you’ll find anywhere. In true Southwestern style, it goes down like a smooth whiskey after a hard day in the saddle.

If you love Wild West Americana, you’ll love this saloon. Its humble exterior is slowly fading under the New Mexican sun, but the interior is a visual banquet of vintage Western décor. There’s an antique cash register, solid-wood bar, ornate cast-iron stove, stone-hearth fireplace, taxidermy animal heads, mannequin “madam,” and best of all, a quirky opera room decked out with second-floor boxes and dangling chandeliers. Show up on a weekend and you’ll probably hear a guitarist strumming tunes on the red-velvet-curtained stage.

https://www.buckhornpinosaltos.com
(575) 538-9911
32 Main St, Pinos Altos, NM 88053

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10. Chope’s Bar and Café in La Mesa

Midway between Las Cruces and El Paso, the rural farming community of La Mesa has only about 500 residents and a cult-favorite gastronomic landmark. Housed for more than a century in the Benavides’ family home, Chope’s Bar and Cafe has garnered legions of fans and a nod from the James Beard Foundation. In 2024, chef Josefina Garcilazo was named a James Beard semi-finalist for “Best Chef: Southwest.” Garcilazo has cooked at Chope’s for more than 40 years.

The Benavides family settled in La Mesa long before New Mexico became a state. In the early 1900s, they converted their home’s front room into a dining area where local farmers could enjoy a meal of enchiladas. The third and fourth generations have kept the tradition going with mouthwatering red and green enchiladas. The tortillas are rolled, not stacked, and filled with cheese instead of meat.

When my friends and I learned that Chope’s serves about 800 chiles rellenos every week, we made a pilgrimage. The green chiles grown in the Mesilla Valley are harvested in the fall, but Chope’s roasts them to store and use year-round. The chiles are stuffed with cheese, dipped in flour and egg whites, and crisply fried to accent their glory. On the plate, they’re delicately brushed with cheese and sauce, but they’re never drowning in it. Every plate is served like a love letter to family and community.

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https://www.facebook.com/chopesbar/
(575) 233-3420
16145 S Hwy 28, La Mesa, NM 88044





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