Fall colors at the Big Tesuque Trailhead on Hyde Park Road in October 2023. Santa Fe National Forest Scenic Byway is one of 25 designated scenic byways in the state.
Luis Sánchez Saturno/New Mexican file photo
The drive to the trail
Before your hiking shoes even hit the dirt, the trip to the trailhead will get you in the mood to spend a day outdoors.
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I’ve lived in six states. I can say without question that the roads and the drivers in New Mexico have been the worst, but the views out the window are by far the best.
There are 25 designated scenic byways in New Mexico covering more than 2,900 miles, including nine National Scenic Byways, eight state byways and eight federal agency back country byways on Bureau of Land Management and U.S. Forest Service land.
The High Road to Taos, the Enchanted Circle, the Jemez Mountain Trail and the Turquoise Trail are just a few scenic byways in Northern New Mexico that will take your breath away. There are many undesignated routes that are just as incredible.
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San Ysidro Trials, a little over an hour’s drive southwest of Santa Fe, offers opportunity for exploration through slot canyons and around tinajas, which are depressions in the rock that fill with snowmelt and rain to form pools.
Matt Dahlseid/New Mexican file photo
The diversity of landscapes
Frequently depicted as an arid desert state, New Mexico’s geographic diversity comes as a surprise to many who visit.
The fifth-largest state in the U.S. has a wide-range of landscapes that make hiking here never feel stale. There are badlands, grasslands, mesas, mountains, canyons, forests, rolling hills, volcanic fields and more. The place is a geologist’s dream. And the best thing is, the varied elevations allow for year-round hiking.
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Nearly one-third of the state is covered in forest, and there are pockets where you can feel more like you’re in the Pacific Northwest than the desert Southwest.
But, yeah, there’s a lot of desert, too, and it can be a lot of fun to hike. The San Ysidro area northwest of Albuquerque is among the desert regions I enjoy exploring. Just make sure to stick to the cooler months and bring plenty of water and sun protection in every season.
A reconstructed portion of an ancient complex on the mesa top at Puye Cliff Dwellings.
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Matt Dahlseid/The New Mexican
Connecting with human history
Footprints preserved in an ancient lake bed at White Sands National Park offer evidence that humans existed in North America 21,000 to 23,000 years ago, about 7,000 years before previously thought. The footprints, discovered in 2009 and carbon dated in 2021, are not currently accessible at the park, but there are many other locations in New Mexico where visitors can gain a better understanding of the long human history on the land.
The Ancestral Pueblo and Mogollon people lived in present-day New Mexico well over 1,000 years ago. Their settlements of grand pueblos and cliff dwellings supported hundreds to thousands of people. Their descendants still live in New Mexico and across Four Corners region.
Places like Chaco Culture National Historical Park, Bandelier National Monument, Gila Cliff Dwellings and Puye Cliff Dwellings allow visitors to learn about the fascinating human history of these areas. With all such locations, practice Leave No Trace principles and do not disturb any historic structures or cultural artifacts.
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Buildings constructed for the production of Oppenheimer can be seen in the valley beneath Cerro Pedernal near Abiquiú.
Matt Dahlseid/The New Mexican
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Feeling like you’re in a movie
Walking through the sandy bottom of a striking canyon or emerging from the pine trees into a large alpine valley can seem like a cinematic experience to hikers in New Mexico. If you feel like you’re passing through the setting of a Western film, it’s quite possible that you are.
Oppenheimer is the most recent of the blockbuster productions filmed in the state, but the movie industry has used New Mexico’s varied landscapes as a backdrop for many other iconic pictures and television series over the decades.
Diablo Canyon near Santa Fe, Valles Caldera in the Jemez Mountains, and Ghost Ranch and Plaza Blanca in the Abiquiú area are some of the more popular filming locations in Northern New Mexico, and all of these sites offer memorable hiking opportunities.
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Alamo Canyon as seen from Upper Alamo Trail in Bandelier National Monument. While Bandelier’s Pueblo Loop Trail is frequently bustling with people, its backcountry trails see little traffic.
Matt Dahlseid/New Mexican file photo
Discovering solitude
As much as the state is working to grow the outdoor tourism industry, New Mexico still lags well behind its Four Corners neighbors in that regard.
Sure, there are some places where you may encounter heavy traffic on the trails — Bandelier National Monument, Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument and the route up Wheeler Peak in the summer, to name a few. But for those who prefer to appreciate the wonders of nature in peace, it doesn’t take much effort to get away from crowds.
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There are 39 wilderness areas across the state that cover nearly 2 million acres and all varieties of terrain.
While the most popular trails found on apps and websites are frequently fantastic, many of the least reviewed ones are, too. That’s where you’re most likely to experience the beauty of a forest or desert without another soul in sight.
Trail runners head down Penitente Peak with Santa Fe Baldy in the distance. Mountain peaks can be a good place to make new acquaintances with fellow nature lovers.
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Matt Dahlseid/New Mexican file photo
Meeting other people
You’re in New Mexico. You’re in the wilderness. You’re on top of a mountain. There’s one other person on the mountain. You begin conversing. You obviously have at least a couple things in common. You bond over those couple things. New friend? Maybe. At least for a few minutes.
As great as it can be to have space to yourself, it can also be kind of nice to meet other people. I don’t know if it’s the lack of oxygen or what, but I get more talkative on mountains and always seem to strike up a conversation.
Several times I’ve finished a hike with a stranger who I met halfway. Frequently, I’ll run into someone I met months or years ago on a trail and we’ll greet each other like old friends. A few times I’ve exchanged contact info and made a new hiking buddy.
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There are some pretty cool people out there on the trail. Sometimes it’s the chance encounters with total strangers can be the most memorable part of a hike.
The Bisti/De-Na-Zin (pictured) and Ah-Shi-Sle-Pah wilderness areas in northwest New Mexico offer some of the most psychedelic landscapes in the country.
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Matt Dahlseid/New Mexican file photo
Entering different dimensions
Immersive art and entertainment giant Meow Wolf has had visitors flocking to its House of Eternal Return in Santa Fe for nearly a decade to take a psychedelic adventure. Nature has provided its own venues for that for much longer.
Multiple mind-bending realms span the state. There’s the ethereal gypsum dunes of White Sands National Park in the south; the snaking slot canyon that opens to reveal towering cone-shaped formations at the aforementioned Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument between Albuquerque and Santa Fe; and then there’s the hallucinogenic hoodoos of the badlands of northwest New Mexico.
The Bisti/De-Na-Zin and Ah-Shi-Sle-Pah wilderness areas are among the most unique landscapes in the world, where manta ray shaped formations balance on eroding pedestals and large oval rocks with bizarre markings incubate in the “Alien Egg Hatchery.”
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But it’s not otherworldly. It’s just New Mexico.
Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep graze at 12,000 feet atop Penitente Peak in the Pecos Wilderness. The animals’ signature spiral horns can weight up to 30 pounds.
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Matt Dahlseid/The New Mexican
Creature encounters
New Mexico’s wildlife can leave just as big of an impression on a hiker as its landscapes.
Wave upon wave of sandhill cranes, snow geese and other migratory birds winter along the Rio Grande. Watching an avion mass ascension and hearing their cacophony of calls is both overwhelming and moving — a primal experience.
In the fall, the bugling of hundreds of bull elk echoes across the mountain valleys of the Valle Vidal and the Valles Caldera. Haunting and eerie, the sounds are as much a part of these spaces as their physical features.
Make your way to the top of a mountain and you may meet a cluster of bighorn sheep who barely acknowledge your presence as they graze on the slope.
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Whether it’s a bear, pika, lizard, snake, tarantula, mule deer or coyote, sharing space with another creature helps remind us that we have a responsibility to preserve the land for all its inhabitants.
Hikers pass through the narrows of the East Fork Box on the way to a waterfall on Tuesday, July 4, 2023. An 11-mile stretch of the East Fork of the Jemez River received a National Wild and Scenic River designation in 1990.
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Matt Dahlseid/New Mexican file photo
Finding water
Water is a precious resource in the Western U.S., particularly in New Mexico.
Just 0.2% of the landlocked state’s total area is covered by water, the smallest percentage of any state in the nation.
Used to seeing bone-dry arroyos during their day-to-day lives, New Mexicans are drawn to water for their outdoor fun.
Dramatic vistas of the Rio Grande can be seen from hikes along the rim of the gorge 800 feet above the river near Taos and Questa. And in the Jemez Mountains, the East Fork of the Jemez River attracts residents from Albuquerque and Santa Fe to hike along the tranquil stream.
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The jewels of New Mexico’s Sangre de Cristo Mountains are the scattered alpine lakes set in the Pecos Wilderness. Most can only be reached by foot or hoof and take hours of difficult high-altitude hiking to reach, but the reward is well worth the strain.
Virga appears over the badlands north of Santa Fe in summer of 2023.
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Matt Dahlseid/New Mexican file photo
The sky
Ask residents what their favorite part of living in New Mexico is and some will say “the sky.”
The sky seems different here than elsewhere. Take a hike on a sunny day (which is the vast majority of days in New Mexico) and the blue looks bluer, especially when contrasted against colorful rocks or cliffs. The dry air, high elevation and lower levels of pollutants help make the sky’s colors appear more vibrant.
This can also be noticed during the state’s famous sunsets, which are appointment viewing like a prime-time television show.
Hiking in the badlands or foothills during golden hour is magical. The pink alpenglow on the mountains, the feathery curtains of rain in the spring that hang on the horizon and reflect the light, it’s all utterly spellbinding.
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Look to the sky, smile and give thanks, for you got to spend another day hiking in New Mexico.
What are your favorite things about hiking in New Mexico? Feel free to share in the comments.
Though the alleged sex trafficking on Jeffrey Epstein’s Caribbean island, Little Saint James, has dominated the national discourse recently, another Epstein property has largely stayed out of the news — but perhaps not for long. A ranch outside Santa Fe, New Mexico, that belonged to the disgraced financier has been the subject of on-and-off investigations, and many are now reexamining what role the ranch may have played in Epstein’s crimes.
What is the ranch in question?
The compound, named Zorro Ranch, includes a 30,000-square-foot mansion that “sits on a ridge overlooking thousands of acres of southwestern land,” said The New York Times. The ranch is in the middle of the desert, an area with low population density where the “nearest neighbors are miles away and most everyone minds their own business.”
Epstein first purchased the ranch in 1993, and it made his seven-story Manhattan penthouse “look like a shack,” he said to Vanity Fair in 2003. Recently released photos by the Department of Justice “provide a look inside the tightly guarded gates” of the compound, said the Santa Fe New Mexican, including images that “show Epstein and others posing” throughout the ranch. In addition to the main house, Zorro Ranch also had a “three-bedroom lodge and off-the-grid log cabin as well as a 4,400-foot airstrip with an aircraft hangar and helipad.”
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Why is the ranch being investigated?
Given the isolated nature of Zorro Ranch, there are numerous allegations about “what role the secluded spot played in sexual abuse or sex trafficking of underage girls and young women,” said The Associated Press. Several of Epstein’s public victims have claimed they were trafficked at the ranch, but “New Mexico leaders say there has never been a thorough investigation of the criminal activity that may have occurred” on the property, said the Times.
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There was previously a minimal investigation into the ranch, which was “taken over by federal prosecutors in 2019, and then apparently fizzled, according to New Mexico officials and recently unsealed records,” said the Times. However, unlike Epstein’s other properties, federal agents “did not appear to have ever searched Zorro Ranch,” according to a report from The Guardian. Officials were “paying attention to Paris, Little Saint James, New York and Miami, but they didn’t pay attention to Zorro Ranch,” Eddy Aragon, an Albuquerque radio D.J. and Epstein researcher, told the Times.
Following public pressure related to Epstein, New Mexico Attorney General Raúl Torrez recently “ordered that the criminal investigation into allegations of illegal activity at Jeffrey Epstein’s Zorro Ranch be reopened,” the New Mexico Department of Justice said in a press release. But since Epstein’s 2019 death, the ranch has come under new ownership, meaning an investigation may not be simple.
After the most recent batch of Epstein documents was released, the “claims in the documents have proved impossible to ignore,” said the Times. Most notable is a 2019 email alleging that in the “hills outside the Zorro, two foreign girls were buried on orders of Jeffrey and Madam G,” the latter apparently referencing Epstein’s accomplice Ghislaine Maxwell. “Both died by strangulation during rough, fetish sex.” The sender of the email was “redacted by the DOJ,” said CNN. It is “not clear that those allegations have been investigated by law enforcement.”
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Polls are now open in Rio Rancho where voters are set to elect a new mayor and decide several key measures Tuesday.
RIO RANCHO, N.M. — Rio Rancho voters are set to elect a new mayor and decide several key measures Tuesday in one of New Mexico’s fastest growing cities.
Voters will make their way to one of the 14 voting centers open Tuesday to decide which person will become mayor, replacing Gregg Hull. These six candidates are running:
Like Albuquerque, Rio Rancho candidates need to earn 50% of the votes to win. Otherwise, the top two candidates will go to a runoff election.
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Regardless of who wins, this will be the first time Rio Rancho voters will elect a new mayor in over a decade. Their priorities include addressing crime and how fast the city is growing, as well as improving infrastructure and government transparency, especially as the site of a new Project Ranger missile project.
The only other race with multiple candidates is the District 5 city council seat. Incumbent Karissa Culbreath faces a challenge from Calvin Ducane Ward.
Voters will also decide the fate of three general obligation bonds:
LAS VEGAS, N.M. — The approaching desert dusk did nothing to settle Travis Regensberg’s nerves as he and a small herd of stray cattle awaited the appearance of a state livestock inspector with whom he had a 30-year feud.
This was Nov. 3, 2023, and, as Regensberg tells it, the New Mexico Livestock Board had maintained an agreement for almost a decade: Livestock Inspector Matthew Romero would not service his ranch due to a long history of bad blood between the two men. False allegations of “cattle rustling” had surfaced in the past, Regensberg said.
A dramatic standoff that evening, caught on lapel camera video, shows Regensberg at the entrance gate of his ranch. Defiant, Regensberg says anyone but Romero can pick up the stray cattle he had asked state livestock officials to pick up earlier in the day. Romero, who is backed up by two New Mexico State Police officers, directs Regensberg to open the gate or he will be arrested.
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“You guys can send somebody who is not Matthew Romero,” Regensberg says in the video, which The New Mexican received through a public records request.
Then-New Mexico Livestock Board Deputy Director Darron “Shawn” Davis can be heard in the video during a call on Romero’s phone, saying, “Matthew, go ahead and arrest Mr. Regensberg for obstruction.”
Regensberg, a contractor and rancher, filed a civil rights lawsuit in February against the New Mexico Livestock Board, Romero and Davis, alleging an “appalling misuse” of power from the state agency. Initially filed in the state District Court in San Miguel County, the suit has been moved to U.S. District Court.
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Travis Regensberg, rancher and contractor, practices his throw on a roping dummy in his barn in Las Vegas, N.M., on Feb. 17, 2025.
Gabriela Campos/The New Mexican
Regensberg, 60, maintains the incident that evening and the criminal charges later filed against him marked a “conspiracy” on the part of state livestock officials to use the weight of the agency to ruin his reputation amid a long-standing grudge held by Romero.
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The District Attorney’s Office in San Miguel County filed criminal charges against Regensberg after the incident, although he was not arrested that night. The counts included unlawful dispossession of animals, livestock running at large and use of a telephone to intimidate and harass — all of which were dismissed “with prejudice,” meaning prosecutors could not refile them, in late 2024. An unlawful branding charge also did not stick.
Regensberg’s suit asserts the board pursued charges of cattle dispossession against him, even though he had called livestock officials and told them to pick up the stray cattle that had wandered onto his property. It says the agency also pursued a charge of cattle running at large, after state officials left a gate open on his property, allowing some of his own cattle to get loose that night.
Romero and Davis both declined to comment on the case.
Davis said he retired in July after 25 years with the agency, noting his retirement was unrelated to the case.
Romero has also retired from the agency; the livestock board did not answer a question about whether his retirement had any connection to the lawsuit.
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Legal counsel for the defendants filed a 30-page motion Feb. 16 seeking to dismiss the case, arguing the defendants had cause to charge Regensberg.
“In this view, Plaintiff appears to argue that his history of conflict with Defendant Romero legally permits him to obstruct the performance of Defendant Romero’s duties. No facts support that this unlawful obstruction was anticipated,” the motion states.
“Just like any individual would not be able to choose which [state police] officer could pull them over for a traffic infraction, Plaintiff is not allowed to unilaterally decide which [livestock] Inspector would show up to a call,” the motion continues.
Unlawful impound?
The dislike between the two men evidently started when they were teenagers or in their early 20s. The suit states the pair had once shared rides to bull-riding events at rodeos, but the relationship soured when Regensburg made a certain pointed comment to Romero.
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The lawsuit lays out subsequent flare-ups between the two men, including at a Wagon Mound rodeo and at a state park in San Miguel County where Romero was working as a ranger.
A small herd of Travis Regensberg’s cattle eat feed on his property in Las Vegas, N.M.
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Gabriela Campos/The New Mexican
Belinda Garland, executive director of the New Mexico Livestock Board, declined to comment on the case.
“This matter is currently before the courts,” she wrote in an email. “Out of respect for the legal process, we cannot comment further. We intend to vigorously defend against the allegations and are confident in our position.”
State police officers were able to defuse the situation that night and convince Regensberg to let officials onto his property after they promised to manage any conflicts between him and Romero.
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Someone left a gate open when they entered, allowing about 20 of Regensberg’s cattle to escape. All of those cattle were gathered back onto his ranch, except for a steer.
He alleges state officials later impounded the steer and sold it for just $75 at the Belen livestock auction without telling him.
In the motion to dismiss the case, lawyers for Romero, Davis and the livestock board say officials had informed Regensberg earlier in the day the cattle belonged to a neighbor.
“Plaintiff refused to allow [his neighbor] to pick up the cattle and demanded that NMLB come get the cattle, even though he was told that the cattle were [his neighbor’s] cattle by a NMLB Inspector,” the motion states. “Plaintiff fed and watered the cattle, without consent of the owner.”
Regensberg said he did not turn the cattle over to his neighbor because the receipt his neighbor presented to him from a Valencia County livestock auction showed they had been purchased at 2:56 p.m. that day, while the stray cattle had turned up on his property that morning.
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“The invoice shown to him was for cattle purchased only minutes earlier at location more than a two-hour drive from Regensberg’s ranch in Las Vegas,” his lawsuit says.
Legal counsel for the livestock board have offered up a different narrative.
“By refusing to allow Defendant Romero on his property, and by knowingly herding, locking away, feeding, and watering [his neighbor’s] cattle, there was more than enough probable cause to charge Plaintiff with unlawful disposition of an animal,” states the motion to dismiss.
“I’m just going to go with obstruction, failure to comply,” Romero says in the lapel camera video, talking to two state police officers about Regensberg, who by that time in the evening had gone into his own residence on the property. “I can get him on unlawful impound, too.”
The history
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What occurred Nov. 3, 2023, could have been a fairly routine job for state livestock agents, according to the lawsuit. Stray cattle had wandered onto Regensberg’s land that morning through a gate opened by a family member who had driven onto his property.
Regensberg, the suit states, herded the strays into an enclosure around 11:15 a.m. and then called a state livestock inspector to remove the animals, following what he believed to be correct protocol.
Eventually Regensberg, according to the lawsuit, fed the cattle as the day lengthened and as no state inspectors had come to remove the animals. Regensberg was told Romero was the only agent available to get the stray cattle, even as he insisted the agency send someone else.
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Travis Regensberg takes a bag of feed out to his cattle followed by his dog Rooster in Las Vegas, N.M., on Feb. 17, 2025.
Gabriela Campos/The New Mexican
The suit states Romero had previously accused Regensberg in a 2014 lawsuit of threatening to kill him, so Regensberg was concerned Romero would try to shoot him that night.
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In the late 1980s or early 1990s, according to the lawsuit, Regensberg was riding a motorcycle on a park roadway heading to a July 4 family gathering when he was stopped by Romero, who told him motorcycles were prohibited from the park and he would have to leave. Regensberg sought to explain he was on his way to a family gathering and would only ride on the road.
“Romero flared, insisting Regensberg’s motorcycle was prohibited and demanded he leave the Park,” the lawsuit says. “Regensberg left, which meant he missed the family gathering. After becoming a livestock inspector, Romero began confronting and harassing Regensberg at various events.”
‘A matter of principle’
It is not the first such lawsuit the agency has recently faced.
A suit filed in a little over a year ago in state District Court by Mike Archuleta, a Rowe cattleman, accuses the board of violating his civil rights by relying on false accusations made by a Texas-based rancher as the basis for seizing five unbranded calves from their home in 2023 and selling them at auction before the couple could prove through DNA testing the animals belonged to them.
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Travis Regensberg gathers his rope while practicing his throw on a roping dummy in his barn in Las Vegas, N.M., on Feb. 17, 2025.
Gabriela Campos/The New Mexican
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Regensberg, a team roper, reflected on how the whole affair has hurt his reputation in the small communities where he has spent his whole life.
He thinks the power of the state should not be used to settle what is, in his view, a personal score. Bringing feed pelts out to the pasture on a recent day — the wind tearing across the landscape and tearing at his clothing — Regensburg said he had to sell about 30 head of cattle just to pay legal fees.
“It’s about accountability,” he said of the lawsuit. “It’s a matter of principle.”