Hawaii
I went to barely-visited Greek island with Hawaii-like beaches that wants Brits
THERE’S a forgotten utopia among the 200+ Greek islands crying out for Brits to come and enjoy its untouched beaches, mouth-watering gyros and beers aplenty.
Karpathos may be the 15th largest Greek island but the population is only about 6,500, so it flies relatively under the radar — a paradise for off-grid explorers.
You’ll spot mainly Italian and Dutch tourists, although the majority of hotel and restaurant staff speak perfect English.
And they are thrilled to have us here, unlike some destinations where anti-tourist protests are in full force.
“We love the Brits, we want the Brits,” one restaurant owner told us.
Perhaps the reason it remains so off-grid is the long journey there.
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Although Karpathos has an airport, there are no direct flights from the UK, which leaves only two options: flying in via Athens, or jetting into Rhodes and taking a ferry.
We opted for the latter, hopping on a smooth easyJet flight from Gatwick for our first leg before whizzing over by boat.
If the journey sounds too hellish to do in one, you can break it up into stages.
It was my first time visiting Greece and I wanted to see some of Rhodes, so we stayed one night in the main hub before moving on to Karpathos.
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Rhodes is undeniably beautiful and has lots to offer but in my short time there I couldn’t help noticing how samey it felt.
Tourist-trap shops, restaurants that want to get you in and out fast and a bit too heavy on the drunken booze scene.
Karpathos is relaxed and uncrowded — and we were grateful for it
Karpathos, by comparison, is relaxed and uncrowded — and we were grateful for it.
The boat trip takes four hours with Blue Star Ferries, stopping at a couple of other islands on the way. But we didn’t mind soaking up the blue skies and seeing the sights as we went.
Karpathos’s main town centre, Pigadia, is where most of the action happens, with a number of family restaurants, bars and shops, all of which are easily walkable.
But to get the most out of the island you’ll want to hire a car. Just beware of the winding roads!
Karpathos may not boast a lively nightlife, but what it does have is a gobsmackingly gorgeous selection of beaches.
There are more than 110 to discover — some of the smaller ones don’t even have names.
We arrived at a tiny hidden one with the sort of crystal clear waters I’ve only ever seen in Hawaii
And you can quite easily stumble across a beach and have it completely to yourselves.
We arrived at a tiny hidden one with the sort of crystal clear waters I’ve only ever seen in Hawaii.
Another five-minute drive down the road and you’ll come across another, then another.
Some of the sandy beaches are flanked by restaurants and places to grab a beer, like Lefkos and Limniatis, while most of the pebble shores tend to be deserted.
Take your pick, the world is very much your oyster here.
It’s hard to choose a favourite among the dozen we visited but Achata Beach wins.
I love how it’s swallowed by mountains and has hardly anything surrounding it.
You can rent a lounger for 20 euros and there’s a bar serving food and drinks straight to loungers.
Away from the sunloungers, there is a range of coastal activities for all the family, dotted along the island.
We took a windsurfing lesson one day, guided by patient surfing pros. Another day we embarked on a bumpy motorboat trip, which took us to the uninhibited Saria Island, to the north of Karpathos.
Women in charge
As well as seeing the beautifully remote landscapes, we snorkelled through a cave soaking up the sight of colourful fish in the most breathtaking setting.
For those seeking more culture, the mountain village of Olympus is a must, with narrow paths and old houses built into slopes.
You’ll see women dressed in traditional embroidered clothing — and this is one of the rare places in the world where women are traditionally in charge.
Go to Olympus in the later part of the day to avoid the surge of visitors and you’ll get one of the best unobstructed views of the sunset ever.
And what goes perfectly with sunsets? Sundowners. I’ve never been more satisfied, in terms of choice, quality and price when it comes to drinks and dining.
Restaurants are largely family-run establishments bursting with genuinely friendly people desperate for you to try some traditional grub. And meals cost far less than in a chain eatery in the UK.
You can stick to the familiar burgers and pasta, but if you’re looking for a local speciality I highly recommend the saganaki, a slab of cheese pan-fried, giving it a golden-brown crispy crust.
My favourite came from the Maxim family restaurant.
Zucchini croquettes were another top pick; Orea restaurant does them best.
Oh, and did I mention the tiropitakia — feta cheese wrapped in a flaky pastry drizzled with honey? I could go on.
Best of all, everything is made with sharing in mind so you don’t have to miss out on anything.
As for drink, don’t be surprised if the owner comes to have a shot of Akai with you at your table.
But for something a bit softer there’s beer and Greek lager such as Mythos for only a few euros.
Maybe Karpathos has more of a party atmosphere than it first let on . . .
GO: KARPATHOS
GETTING THERE: EasyJet flies from Gatwick to Rhodes from £28.49 each way.
See easyjet.com.
A Blue Star Ferries connection from Rhodes to Karpathos is from 18 euros (£15.70).
STAYING THERE: Rooms at Hotel Atlantis start at £50 per night.
For more information see atlantishotelkarpathos.gr.
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Hawaii
Everyone Says Oahu’s Overcrowded. We Drove 20 Minutes Past Haleiwa And Found Beautiful Empty Beaches
Most visitors think Oahu’s North Shore stops at Haleiwa because that is where traffic builds to pandemonium, where beach parking fills earlier than you can imagine, and where sitting in your car between the familiar lineup of surf breaks and food trucks largely defines the experience. Once people have crawled through and found a place to stand at Waimea or Sunset, the mental box gets checked, and the car points back toward Honolulu fast, as if everything worth seeing has already been seen. But it hasn’t.
Instead of turning around at Haleiwa, we continued west on Farrington Highway and watched the storefronts fall away in the rearview mirror. The line of rental cars thinned fast as the road narrowed and the mountains got closer to the pavement. On the ocean side, long stretches of sand opened up, and within a few miles, we were seeing more wind in the ironwood trees than cars on the road or people on the beach.
Most visitors leaving Haleiwa head east toward Sunset Beach and Pipeline, where traffic stacks up endlessly and parking lots overflow. We went the other way. Out toward Mokuleia, the commercial North Shore disappears fast, and what replaces it is space. There are no visitors circling for stalls and no steady lines at food trucks. You can pull over without searching for the one open spot in a packed lot, and entire sections of beach sit quietly without the usual cluster.
Dillingham Airfield and the working North Shore.
One of the first landmarks after Mokule’ia Beach (which we will write about soon) is what most people still call Dillingham Airfield, though its official name is Kawaihapai Airfield. It is owned by the U.S. Army and managed by the State of Hawaii Department of Transportation under a 50-year lease, and it has been operated as a military installation since the 1920s, with HDOT taking over management in 1962. HDOT leases 272 acres of the 650-acre Dillingham Military Reservation and operates the single 9,000-foot runway, with the civilian side used heavily for gliders and skydiving while the Army retains first priority for air/land operations and uses the field for helicopter night-vision training.
As we drove past, it did not feel like a visitor attraction at all, even though you can spot the roadside signs for glider rides and skydiving. A small single-engine plane rolled down the runway and lifted off against the Waianae Mountains, then a glider followed, towed upward before separating and moving almost silently above the coastline. It is one of those North Shore scenes that makes you slow down without thinking about it, because it looks like real working Oahu rather than the marketed version, with runway, mountains, and open water all in the same frame and very few people around to make it feel like a production.
Camps that have been here for generations.
Close to the airfield are two oceanfront camps that rarely enter any typical Oahu visitor’s plans. The first is Camp Mokuleia, which sits along the shoreline and is owned by the Episcopal Church. If you’re not on a retreat, you can rent a campsite or tentalo on the beach. A little farther west is YMCA Camp Erdman, which opened in 1926 and is approaching its 100th anniversary, still renting oceanfront cabins and yurts to the public.
The accommodations are straightforward, with sand steps away from the doors and long views of the horizon. This is not a resort strip, and you won’t find any valet stands or infinity pools. Families gather around grills, kids move freely between cabins and the beach, while the ocean feels part of the daily backdrop more than it is an Instagram photo opportunity.
Camp Mokuleia tentalos start at $100 a night. Camp Erdman yurts and cabins range from $250-$450 per night for up to 6 guests. For context, the average vacation rental in the Mokuleia area lists above $500 a night.
The shoreline here is not known for calm, protected swimming, and currents can be strong without lifeguard towers stationed every few hundred yards. The beach also has a lot of coral, which keeps swimmers more limited than some other beaches. And that fact alone keeps casual beach traffic lighter, and it helps explain why this stretch feels so different from busier Oahu North Shore stops. The camps and the character of the water belong to the same landscape, shaped more by geography than by commercial branding.

Where the pavement ends.
Eventually, Farrington Highway reaches a gravel lot where the pavement stops and a locked gate marks the entrance to the Mokuleia section of Kaena Point State Park. There is no visitor center funneling people through an entrance plaza. Instead, there is open sky, steady trade winds, and a handful of parked cars facing a dirt road that continues on foot toward the westernmost tip of Oahu, where you can meet the road that comes from the other side. This is truly a part of Oahu that most visitors never see.
Hikers follow the old railroad route for roughly 2.7 miles to Kaena Point itself, where seabirds nest behind protective fencing and monk seals are sometimes seen along the shore. The trail is exposed, hot, and largely flat, with no services and little shade, which naturally limits casual foot traffic. Consider not trying it in the middle of the day. But, standing at the end of the paved road, with the Waianae Mountains behind you and nothing but raw coastline ahead, feels less like arriving at any Oahu attraction and more like standing at the literal end of the island.
What stood out most was how little competition there was for space. There were only a few cars in the lot when we arrived, and long portions of the beach were untouched compared with the chaotic churn nearby at Haleiwa. It was a bit windy, the mountains anchored one side of the horizon, and the coastline extended westward without any indication that you were sharing it with scattered other people.
If you have been to the North Shore more than once and believe you have already seen it, have you ever kept driving past Haleiwa until the pavement runs out? It’s worth the drive.
Photo Credits: © Beat of Hawaii at Kaena Point State Park, Oahu.
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