Alaska
An epic Kenai Peninsula, Alaska road trip – The Points Guy
Few places provide as awe-inspiring a maritime landscape within a short drive of a major international airport as the 16,000-square-mile Kenai Peninsula, which hangs from the coast of Southcentral Alaska like an emerald pendant earring.
A popular destination with cruise ships, this minimally developed tract of evergreen-shrouded coastal mountains, deep frigid fjords and sprawling glaciers is also the southern terminus of the Alaska Railroad. Additionally, it’s the western tip of the state’s — and the continent’s — contiguous road system. Fun fact: It’s a 5,330-mile drive from Homer, the last town on this itinerary, to the other end of the continent, Key West.
On the roughly 300-mile drive from Anchorage down through this captivating peninsula, you’ll pass through quirky towns popular with outdoors enthusiasts, artists, craft beer makers, chefs and free spirits. Along this route, you can visit the wildlife-rich waters of Prince William Sound, Kenai Fjords National Park and Kachemak Bay. And while it’s well worth booking a local day cruise or kayak trip to fully explore the region’s waters, a car provides the most enjoyable way to get from point to point.
If you have time, combine this trip with an adventure north from Anchorage to Denali National Park and Fairbanks.
Kenai Peninsula road trip planning
You’re never more than a two- or three-hour drive between the key points on this itinerary, most of which lie along the Seward and Sterling highways. On a map, these roads are numbered as Highway 1 and, for the short spur of road into the small city of Seward, Highway 9, but Alaskans always refer to roads by their name rather than their route number.
Roads leading to the main towns and attractions on the Kenai Peninsula are well-maintained and marked, and gas stations are located fairly regularly. Because cell service is unreliable in places, it’s a good idea to download maps before you set out. Always watch for wildlife: Moose, bears and other creatures frequently cross these forested roads.
Alaska car rentals are pricey from late spring through early fall, with one-week round-trip rentals in Anchorage starting at around $600. Give yourself plenty of time to drive to Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport (ANC) if you have a flight to catch. From Homer, the drive can take as little as four and a half hours, but road construction and bus traffic in high season can cause delays. It’s best to allow at least six or seven hours to avoid rushing.
DIY versus an organized tour
Several tour companies can lead you on a group excursion through much of this itinerary — especially Seward, Whittier, Girdwood and Anchorage — but plenty of compelling reasons exist to experience the Kenai Peninsula on your own. The cost of either approach is fairly similar, but road-tripping independently allows for more flexibility, freedom from crowds and the promise of more intimate and distinctive hotels and restaurants.
For more on this topic, see our Southcentral Alaska road trip guide, as the tour options for that region overlap with those on the Kenai Peninsula.
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Budgeting your time
Although it’s possible to drive from Anchorage to Homer in under five hours, allow at least four nights and five days to explore the region without rushing. (Spend two of those nights in Homer, which is particularly rich in things to see and do.) Ideally, take a full week to explore the Kenai Peninsula.
Getting to Anchorage
This itinerary starts in the state’s largest city, Anchorage. It is home to Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport, which offers flights to numerous North American hubs of most major airlines and several direct international routes.
The best months to visit the Kenai Peninsula
As is true throughout Alaska’s coastal regions, the ideal season for visiting the Kenai Peninsula is late spring through early fall. Many tourism-related businesses — including accommodations, recreation outfitters and restaurants — shut down or greatly reduce hours for the rest of the year. And the odds of encountering clear skies on the Kenai Peninsula are best during these months.
However, even in summer, rain and fog can occur in these parts. Always pack layers, including at least one all-weather jacket, a hat and waterproof footwear. Other advantages to visiting in summer are the many hours of daylight and the mild temperatures. In Homer and Seward, the thermometer typically climbs into the mid-60s on summer days.
Anchorage to Girdwood
Anchorage is a practical place to start and end your trip, and it also offers a bounty of interesting attractions, eclectic restaurants, comfortable hotels and easily reached hikes and outdoor adventures. Find recommendations on what to see and do and where to stay in Anchorage in our Southcentral Alaska road trip guide.
Views of the calm waters of Turnagain Arm, a long and narrow finger of Cook Inlet, and the steep, jagged mountains of the Chugach range dominate the 40-mile drive from Anchorage down Seward Highway to tiny Girdwood.
Along this drive, you’ll encounter several roadside pullouts — Beluga Point being the most popular — where you can stop to watch for whales in July and August and see surfers riding the arm’s bore tide, considered the longest wave in the United States. (This typically happens twice daily, a few hours after low tide.) Popular treks include the easily navigated boardwalks of Potter Marsh bird sanctuary and the 4.5-mile round-trip Bird Ridge hike, a vertiginous but rewarding scramble with unparalleled Chugach Mountains and Turnagain Arm views.
Be very careful not to walk out onto the wet, muddy flats of Turnagain Arm at low tide. It may appear to be a docile, almost inviting landscape for a stroll, but the silty mud flats here can trap people like quicksand. Over the years, several have become stuck here and drowned.
Exploring Girdwood
When you reach the left turn for Girdwood, follow Alyeska Highway a few miles into the rustic downtown, which has a handful of shops and cafes as well as the famed Double Musky Inn, an upscale restaurant with a down-home personality and New Orleans-style cuisine. Established in the 1890s as a gold-mining community, Girdwood is more closely associated these days with Alyeska Resort, an expansive, mountainous property that contains one of the state’s poshest hotels and offers myriad recreational opportunities. You can hike or take the aerial tram up to the state’s most acclaimed ski area — the recipient of nearly 700 inches of snow annually and known for seriously steep terrain. Summer activities include mountain biking, hiking and walking across a pair of 2,500-foot-high sky bridges.
Near the base of the tram, the serenely stylish Alyeska Nordic Spa opened in 2022 and is a delightful place to laze for a couple of hours, immersing yourself in a forested hydrotherapy circuit comprising cold plunge pools and wooden hot tubs as well as saunas and steam rooms. An array of massage and body treatments are available, too, and a casually chic restaurant serves healthy spa-minded cuisine. But for the ultimate culinary experience, reserve (well in advance) a table at Seven Glaciers, which serves locally sourced multicourse feasts in a glass-enclosed dining room at the top of the tram.
Where to stay in Girdwood
In Girdwood, the Alyeska Resort (rates start at $459 per night) features eight floors of smartly decorated rooms and provides easy access to nature. A cozier and quieter option in the center of town, Carriage House Accommodations (rates start at $190 per night) comprises three charmingly rustic rooms in the main lodge and three cottages ideal for families or small groups. A hearty breakfast is included, and guests can soak away their stresses in the covered outdoor hot tub.
Girdwood to Seward
About 10 miles south of Girdwood on Seward Highway, stop for an hour to explore the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, a 200-acre sanctuary with huge natural enclosures inhabited by injured or orphaned animals that can’t be released back into the wild. You can view just about every major species of mammal common to the state, including musk oxen, brown and black bears, moose and reindeer. You can walk or drive along pathways that get you close to the enclosure’s fences. There’s also a central area near the gift shop with several smaller enclosures that hold eagles, owls, porcupines and lynx.
Detour to Whittier
Just past the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, turn left onto Portage Glacier Road toward Whittier. About six miles later, you’ll pass the shore of icy-blue Portage Lake and the side road to Begich, Boggs Visitor Center, where you can view exhibits about the immense Portage Glacier, which lies at the end of the lake and has receded out of view due to global warming. You can, however, get a great view of the glacier — and sometimes massive pieces of ice breaking off into the lake — by taking a one-hour cruise on the 80-foot Ptarmigan.
To reach Whittier, you’ll need to time the journey with the opening of the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, a 2.5-mile-long passageway beneath 4,100-foot Maynard Mountain, the longest combination vehicle-train tunnel in North America. In the direction of Whittier (eastbound), it opens to vehicles for 15 minutes every hour on the half-hour (the toll, which you can pay by cash or credit card, is $13). Westbound, the tunnel opens every hour on the hour. The tunnel can get busy in summer, so try to arrive about a half-hour before the time of your crossing.
After driving through the tunnel, you’ll emerge into this diminutive town surrounded by the Chugach Mountains and Passage Canal, a slender arm of the enormous Prince William Sound (nearly half the size of Lake Michigan). Along with Seward, Whittier is one of the region’s two major cruise ship ports. Before 2000, when the tunnel opened to cars, you could get there only by train or boat. Developed as a military transport hub during World War II, Whittier’s utilitarian midcentury architecture won’t win any beauty contests, but it’s a fantastic port for maritime adventures. The friendly and informative guides at Alaska Sea Kayakers lead fascinating paddles to a black-legged kittiwake bird rookery and around the soaring waterfalls and secret coves of Passage Canal, while Phillips Cruises & Tours conducts memorable half-day glacier-viewing excursions around Prince William Sound on high-speed catamarans.
Continuing to Seward
Once you’re back on the main route, follow the Seward Highway around the southern end of Turnagain Arm and be sure to stop at the pull-off to snap a selfie in front of the big wood-carved Welcome to Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula sign. The Seward Highway then climbs over 900-foot Turnagain Pass before plunging through the rugged wilderness of Chugach National Forest.
Where the road enters a deep valley at shimmering Tern Lake, bear left, continuing onto the spur of Seward Highway (labeled Highway 9 on maps). This final 40-mile stretch to Seward offers plenty of eye-popping scenery as it meanders over Moose Pass and alongside the shores of a few different rippling bodies of water, including the southern shore of boomerang-shaped Kenai Lake.
Exploring Seward
Seward is at the head of narrow Resurrection Bay, framed on both sides by emerald peaks. Kenai Fjords National Park encompasses the west side of the bay. The road into town first passes by the small airport and then the Seward Cruise Ship Terminal.
From the adjacent marina, several companies offer half- and full-day wildlife-viewing cruises, which are the best way to experience the coastal sections of Kenai Fjords National Park. The well-respected company Major Marine Tours is an excellent choice, as its narrated 6- to 8.5-hour cruises on a sleek and stable catamaran offer views of the sea lion colonies on the rocky Chiswell Islands and of the formidable Aialik Glacier. You’ll typically see cavorting orcas and humpback whales on these narrated cruises, along with sea otters, mountain goats, Dall’s porpoises, puffins, eagles and countless other birds.
It’s just a few miles south from the marina into Seward’s small but lively downtown of galleries, gift shops and restaurants. Resurrect Art Coffee House and Seward Brewing Company are excellent choices for a bite to eat. The must-see attraction here is the Alaska SeaLife Center, a nonprofit marine mammal rehabilitation center on the bay’s edge that’s both an informative, well-designed environmental science museum and an engaging public aquarium. Here you can see local seabirds and marine mammals up close and better understand the region’s critical ocean ecology.
The town’s other major draw is the opportunity to visit Exit Glacier, a valley glacier within Kenai Fjords National Park that is receding rapidly like many others. In recent memory, you could walk a short distance from the parking lot at Exit Glacier Nature Center, a 20-minute drive from downtown Seward, and stand at the base of this massive ice field. These days, you need to hike about a half-mile up a well-marked trail to a viewing area that affords a decent but increasingly distant view of the glacier.
For a more dramatic look at the park’s icy monoliths, set aside about six hours to make the 8.6-mile there-and-back hike up to the 700-square-mile Harding Icefield, the source of all 38 of the park’s glaciers. You need to be reasonably fit to contend with this hike’s 3,100-foot elevation gain, but the views of massive glaciers and roaring waterfalls keep improving the whole way up.
Where to stay in Seward
Just north of downtown Seward, the Harbor 360 Hotel (rates start at $379 per night) is a cheerfully decorated three-story hotel with stunning bay views — ask for a waterfront room with a balcony. This property is a terrific option for planning a Kenai Fjords cruise with Major Marine Tours, as boats depart from the hotel’s pier. The upscale Hotel Edgewater (rates start at $260 per night) has the advantage of being located right in the center of Seward, steps from restaurants and the Alaska SeaLife Center. Many of its 75 rooms have balconies and Resurrection Bay views, but these premium rooms have steeper rates.
Seward to Homer
It takes about three and a half hours to drive nonstop from Seward to Homer, but there are a few notable things to see and do on this drive. After taking Seward Highway north back to Tern Lake, turn left onto Sterling Highway to continue your journey into the peninsula’s southwestern reaches. If you have the time and are game for a rafting or salmon-fishing trip on the Kenai River, consider tacking on an overnight. There are some inviting wildlife lodges in Cooper Landing and several practical motels and guest houses in the peninsula’s main population center, which comprises three adjoining communities: Sterling, Soldotna and Kenai.
Soldotna and Kenai
The main reason to stop in this area is to pick up groceries and refill your gas tank, but if you’re not in a hurry, it’s also worth making a 12-mile side excursion to Kenai’s Old Town, which overlooks the point where the Kenai River empties into Cook Inlet. Old Town is also home to the Holy Assumption Russian Orthodox Church, a stately building crowned with ornate blue onion domes built in 1896 when there was still a significant Russian community in many Alaskan towns. You’ll find some noteworthy lunch and dinner options, including Flats Bistro in Kenai, plus Addie Camp and St. Elias Brewing in Soldotna.
Ninilchik
The final 75-mile stretch of Sterling Highway from Soldotna to Homer is quite scenic, as Cook Inlet and the distant volcanic peaks to the west come into view. There are a couple of great photo ops along the way. In Ninilchik, turn right at the Transfiguration of Our Lord Church sign. After a short distance on this dirt road, you’ll come to this small, photogenic wooden church with a green roof, several golden onion domes, a white picket fence and a wildflower-strewn burial ground. Watch for bald eagles overhead — a wary-eyed mother eagle often builds a gigantic nest for her chicks in one of the trees visible just to the east of the cemetery.
Anchor Point
About 20 miles south, follow the signs from Sterling Highway about 2 miles west to Anchor River State Recreation Area. At the end of the road, you can watch fishermen casting for steelhead and salmon and take in impressive views 40 miles across Cook Inlet toward the volcanic peaks of Lake Clark National Park and Preserve. Geography buffs should walk over to Halibut Point Campground to snap a photo of the sign that tells you you’re standing at the most westerly point of North America’s highway system.
Where to stay between Seward and Homer
For breaking up your drive between Seward and Homer, it’s hard to beat the comfort and setting of Kenai Princess Wilderness Lodge (rates start at $269 per night), a cabin-inspired building with steep red roofs and great views of the surrounding mountains. Set directly along the Kenai River, the 86-room lodge caters heavily to group tours, but it also offers awesome rafting, kayaking and float trips and has an excellent bar and restaurant.
Exploring Homer
Although Homer has just over 6,100 residents, this jewel of a town on Kachemak Bay punches well above its weight with its art and culinary scenes. It’s also a vibrant hub of outdoor recreation and commercial fishing, and because few cruise ships call here, it’s generally less crowded than Seward and Whittier. Sea-to-table restaurants like the Pacific Rim-inspired Kannery, the cozily romantic Fresh Catch Cafe and the casual seafood-bowl purveyor Johnny’s Corner turn out some of the finest food in the state.
As Sterling Highway descends into town, snap a photo from Homer Baycrest Overlook for a panoramic view of Homer Spit, a 1,500-foot-wide sliver of sand and gravel that juts 4.5 miles into the bay and is home to several excellent art galleries and restaurants, as well as companies offering fishing, water taxi and wildlife-watching services.
Before heading out onto the spit, stop by the free Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center, which has extensive exhibits related to the human and natural history of this vast preserve that stretches as far as the Aleutian Islands and is home to about 80% of North America’s seabird population. It’s adjacent to Homer’s tiny and enchanting Old Town, where you can get lunch at homey Wild Honey Bistro (famed for its sweet and savory crepes) or Two Sisters Bakery.
Another enjoyable activity is extending your road trip slightly and making a scenic 22-mile meander along Skyline Drive through the verdant highlands that rise above the north shore of Kachemak Bay. Stop for a hike through the wildflowers at Eveline State Recreation Site.
Homer is a jumping-off point for several classic Alaska adventures, from charter sport-fishing excursions for salmon and halibut to sea kayaking and glacier hikes across the bay at Kachemak Bay State Park to flightseeing trips to Katmai and Lake Clark national parks. For example, Emerald Air Service offers full-day trips to watch the prolific bear population at legendary Brooks Falls in Katmai National Park. Or, for an aerial view over Kachemak Bay and the glaciers in and around Kachemak Bay State Park, book a trip with Alaska Helicopter Tours; these tours typically include landing for a walkabout for a better look at the astounding terrain. And on an excursion with well-established True North Kayak Adventures, you can book a paddle around beautiful Halibut Cove.
Where to stay in Homer
The reasonably priced Bay Avenue Inn (rates start at $190 per night) has seven comfy rooms. It overlooks Kachemak Bay and Homer Spit in a quiet, centrally located residential neighborhood. Perks include a friendly and knowledgeable staff, complimentary breakfast and inviting indoor and outdoor common spaces. Located in Homer’s cute Old Town, the Driftwood Inn & Suites (rates start at $145 per night) offers a nice range of lodging options, all of them casually but comfortably decorated, including cozy, economical rooms in the original historic inn, several cottages and lodges geared toward groups and longer stays, and even an RV park. (Note that the least expensive rooms have shared bathrooms.)
Several exclusive wilderness retreats across Kachemak Bay are accessible by water taxi, floatplane or helicopter. These properties are generally all-inclusive (with meals and activities) and require at least a three-night minimum stay, but they do offer a luxury experience in a dazzling and remote setting at the end of your road trip. These hideaways include Kachemak Bay Wilderness Lodge (from $7,000 per person for five nights) and Tutka Bay Lodge (from $8,900 per person for three nights).
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Alaska
Former Alaska corrections officer sentenced to 150 years in prison for killing wife and teen daughter
A former Alaska corrections officer who pleaded guilty to the 2022 killings of his wife and daughter earlier this year was sentenced this week to 150 years in prison.
Anchorage Superior Court Judge Josie Garton on Tuesday sentenced Jalonni Blackshear to consecutive 75-year sentences for first- and second-degree murder in the 2022 killings of his wife, Raechyl Blackshear, and their 14-year-old daughter, Jayla, according to filings in the case.
The sentence came after Blackshear pleaded guilty to the charges in late January. Blackshear, in a plea agreement affidavit, said that he shot and killed his wife and daughter in their Scenic Foothills neighborhood home on April 4, 2022, amid a police investigation into suspicions that Blackshear had sexually abused his daughter.
The plea agreement called for a 150-year sentence, according to a May 11 sentencing memorandum signed by Assistant District Attorney Rachel Gernat.

Nearly a dozen other charges, including murder, sexual abuse of a minor and incest, were dismissed as part of the plea agreement with prosecutors, according to the memorandum.
Blackshear had a history of abusing and terrorizing his family, Gernat said in the memo. He shot his family members in the head to avoid prosecution on sexual abuse charges after he failed to coerce his daughter to recant statements given to Anchorage police about being sexually assaulted in late March of that year, she wrote.
In his plea agreement affidavit, Blackshear admitted that the murders were unprovoked and that he was likely to face charges for sexually abusing his daughter.
The mother and daughter were last seen on April 3, 2022, after Blackshear convinced his wife to take their daughter to Anchorage police to try to get her to retract her sexual assault allegations, prosecutors said.
Blackshear quit his job and fled Alaska several days later after he was charged with sexually abusing his daughter. Prosecutors said he used the mother and daughter’s phones to impersonate them in an effort to convince others they were alive.
Raechyl and Jayla Blackshear were found dead in the family home days later after Raechyl Blackshear missed a medical appointment, according to police. Tracking data from their phones led to Blackshear’s arrest in New York weeks later, according to prosecutors.
Blackshear was jailed at the Mat-Su Pretrial facility as of Thursday afternoon.
Alaska
Tomorrow Alaska Burns $190 Million Of Taxpayer Money To Drag Oil Companies Into The Arctic Refuge
There’s a place in the far northeast corner of Alaska that almost no American has ever seen and almost every American would tell you to protect. In June the sun never sets. The light is low and golden for twenty hours and soft and golden for the other four. The tundra goes electric green with cottongrass and dwarf willow and Arctic poppy. The Porcupine River runs cold and clear off the Brooks Range. And 143,000 caribou fan out across the coastal plain to give birth to their calves. They’ve been doing this for thousands of years. The herd walks 1,500 miles from interior Alaska and the Canadian Yukon to the same patch of tundra, every spring, to deliver the next generation onto the same ground their grandmothers were born on.
Right now, this week, the herd is on the plain. The calves are being born. Polar bear mothers, the sea ice failing them, have moved their dens onshore. Snow geese feed in the wetlands. Musk oxen, brought back from extinction in the 1930s, move in slow shaggy ranks across the high ground. More than two hundred bird species nest here every summer. Some flew in from Argentina. Some flew in from New Zealand. Some flew in from the edge of Antarctica. The Gwich’in people, who’ve shared this country with the Porcupine herd for thousands of years, call this place Iizhik Gwats’an Gwandaii Goodlit. The Sacred Place Where Life Begins.
Tomorrow morning at 10 a.m. Alaska time, in an office building in downtown Anchorage, the Bureau of Land Management will open sealed bids on the right to drill it. The only confirmed bidder is the State of Alaska itself, putting up $190 million in taxpayer money to drag oil companies into a refuge they’ve already refused to drill twice.
The only entity that has confirmed it will bid tomorrow is the Alaska Industrial Development and Export Authority. AIDEA is a state-owned Alaska corporation. Its money is Alaska taxpayer money. Three weeks ago, AIDEA’s board voted 6-1 to authorize $190 million for tomorrow’s bidding and the seismic exploration that would follow if it wins anything. That’s on top of the roughly $12 million in Alaska public money AIDEA already spent in 2021 buying refuge leases that have, five years later, produced zero barrels of oil, zero dollars in revenue, and a pile of pending litigation. AIDEA’s existing leases were canceled by the Biden administration, reinstated by a federal judge, and tied up in court ever since.
Let me explain what’s happening here, because the official press releases will not.
AIDEA wants the drilling. The Alaska political establishment has wanted the drilling for fifty years. Two prior federal lease sales on this same land asked whether private industry actually wanted to drill it, and private industry said no. The 2021 sale drew almost no major oil company bids. The 2025 sale drew zero bids of any kind. None. Exxon sat out. So did Chevron. So did Shell and ConocoPhillips. Every one of the six largest American banks refuses to finance Arctic Refuge drilling. Every major oil company has, on the record, in repeated lease sales, walked away.
So the Alaska political class is using state public money to bring the drillers in. AIDEA director Randy Ruaro told the Anchorage Daily News in May, “We’re absolutely interested.” His board voted to spend $190 million the next week. The lone no vote came from Andrew Guy, president of the Indigenous-owned Calista Corp., who said the agency hadn’t explained what the $190 million was actually for. The board went ahead anyway.
AIDEA’s bid serves a single purpose. The state’s development bank locks up acreage tomorrow so that an oil major can take a sublease later, when political weather changes or new federal infrastructure makes the project feasible. Call it what it is. A $190 million Alaska taxpayer downpayment on the destruction of the most pristine wildlife refuge in the country. Alaska is paying nearly a quarter of a billion dollars to make sure the drilling pipeline stays alive when the actual market has rejected it twice.
The Trump administration will call the result a successful sale tomorrow afternoon. The Alaska delegation will call it industry vindication. Alaska taxpayers will eat the $190 million. The federal government will pocket the bid money. The polar bears and the caribou will be one auction closer to gone.
When Congress opened the refuge to drilling in the 2017 Tax Cuts and Jobs Act, the Congressional Budget Office estimated the two mandated lease sales would generate $1.82 billion over ten years. Pro-drilling members of Congress sold the program as a $1 billion offset against the bill’s $1.9 trillion price tag. The actual federal take from the 2021 sale was $8.2 million. The take from the 2025 sale was zero.
When Congress passed the One Big Beautiful Bill Act last summer and mandated four more sales, CBO revised the revenue estimate down to $452 million across the entire ten-year window. Taxpayers for Common Sense, the nonpartisan watchdog that’s tracked this program for a decade, calls even that estimate wildly inflated. Their projection based on twenty years of actual North Slope bidding data is $3 to $30 million in total federal revenue across all four sales combined.
To translate that, 2017 voters were told the program would pay for itself. The actual pace at which the program is paying for itself is roughly the cost of an elevator retrofit on a single Senate office building. We’ve written before about the lie behind ‘unused’ public land and the math that doesn’t add up on public lands logging. This is the same con, run on the same talking points, for the same beneficiaries. The pattern repeats. The federal government promises billions in extractive revenue. Actual revenue arrives in the low millions. The land is ruined regardless.
The reason the math doesn’t work is structural. There are no roads on the coastal plain. The Trans-Alaska Pipeline stops a hundred and twenty miles to the west at Prudhoe Bay. The airstrips, the housing, the processing capacity that any commercial operation would require, all of it would have to be built from scratch, in a place where winter lasts nine months and the working window for surface infrastructure is measured in weeks. A new field in the Refuge would take seven to ten years to develop before the first barrel reached a refinery. Whatever crisis the Trump administration cites tomorrow to justify the sale will be eight years in the rearview by the time any oil moves.
Goldman Sachs ran these numbers in 2017 and called Arctic exploration economically unjustifiable. The market agreed twice. Tomorrow, Alaska public money will try to override the market.
The man running tomorrow’s sale is Doug Burgum, the former North Dakota governor that Trump confirmed as Interior Secretary in January 2025 with a mandate to maximize fossil fuel extraction from federal lands. Burgum’s previous job was running the third-largest oil-producing state in the country. The Associated Press, citing state records, reported that his administration coordinated with oil industry lobbyists on regulatory strategy while his own family was leasing land to oil companies.
In October 2025, Burgum reopened the entire 1.56-million-acre coastal plain to leasing. In December 2025, Trump signed six Congressional Review Act resolutions overturning BLM management plans that had protected the coastal plain along with five other major federal land units. The CRA carries a permanent bar against the agency issuing comparable protections without new congressional action. The same Interior Department also opened the entire Gulf of Mexico oil and gas program by convening the God Squad for the first time in thirty years to exempt the program from the Endangered Species Act. Over the heads of fifty-one Rice’s whales. Tomorrow’s auction is one move in a campaign.
The Gwich’in Steering Committee was unequivocal. “Secretary Burgum’s intentions to pilfer sacred land in the Arctic Refuge to the highest bidder flies in the face of the rights of the Gwich’in as Indigenous people and, quite frankly, in the face of common sense.” On April 28, Steering Committee Executive Director Kristen Moreland sent letters to eight major oil company executives formally requesting they decline to bid tomorrow. The day after, 13 conservation organizations sent a parallel letter to 11 oil executives reminding them of the reputational risk of bidding. As of this writing, none of those companies has publicly confirmed they will. None has publicly confirmed they won’t.
Look at the numbers, then think about what they mean.
The Porcupine caribou herd has dropped from 218,000 animals in 2017 to 143,000 in the most recent 2026 survey. A thirty-five percent decline in nine years. The coastal plain is their calving ground. The geographic reason there’s still a Porcupine herd at all.
The Southern Beaufort Sea polar bear population, the bears that den on the coastal plain, has dropped to a draft 2025 estimate of 819 bears. The 1980s estimate was upwards of 1,500. They’ve been listed as threatened under the Endangered Species Act since 2008, the law Doug Burgum’s Interior Department is currently dismantling through regulation. Three-quarters of the coastal plain is now their primary denning habitat, because sea ice denning is no longer viable. The mothers dig their dens in snowdrifts behind the dunes. They give birth in those dens in winter. The cubs are smaller than a softball when they’re born and weigh roughly a pound. They cannot be moved.
Seismic exploration uses 90,000-pound thumper trucks that pound the tundra in winter to map subsurface geology. The forward-looking infrared technology the oil industry uses to locate polar bear dens before driving over them has been documented missing more than half of known dens in field-tested conditions. When the technology misses a den, the truck drives over it. When the mother bear flees her den early, the cubs die.
Read that again. The technology misses more than half the time. When it misses, the cubs die. Tomorrow morning, Alaska is committing $190 million of public money to bring that equipment into the highest-density polar bear denning habitat in the United States. The hunters and anglers who love the Refuge know this as well as the scientists do. The same audience who saw the 1.4 million acres of the Dalton Corridor transferred to Alaska last month, severing the wildlife corridor between Gates of the Arctic, the Arctic Refuge, and two adjacent refuges. The same audience who watched 58 million acres of national forest get opened to industrial logging in March. The pattern is the pattern. The country we hand to our kids will have less of this in it every year we tolerate this.
Two full ANWR lease sales under the original 2017 Tax Cuts and Jobs Act mandate happened. Both flopped. CBO cut its revenue forecast in half. The banks won’t finance. The majors won’t bid. The Indigenous nation whose existence depends on the caribou opposes it. The polar bears are at a fraction of their historical numbers. The hunters and anglers who rely on those public lands are watching the access disappear. And the State of Alaska is throwing a quarter of a billion dollars in public money at the problem tomorrow to keep the political show alive.
Ninety-nine percent of one million public comments on the original program opposed drilling. Two-thirds of registered voters consistently oppose drilling in polling. The United Nations Committee on the Elimination of Racial Discrimination has sounded alarms three times about the human rights violations entailed in opening the calving grounds without Gwich’in consent. Multiple federal lawsuits are pending against the 2025 Record of Decision under the APA, the Wilderness Act, ANILCA, the Refuge Act, NEPA, the ESA, and the underlying statutory authorities. The Center for Biological Diversity and Defenders of Wildlife have served notice of intent to sue under the Endangered Species Act over polar bear impacts. The administration is conducting the sale anyway.
It’s a familiar pattern from this Interior Department. Move fast. Transfer the asset. Generate facts on the ground. Let the courts try to unwind them later. Once a lease sells, it encumbers the land for years. Active leases generate environmental reviews and seismic permits and road petitions and infrastructure proposals and an institutional momentum the courts struggle to undo even after they rule the underlying decisions unlawful. That’s the point of holding the sale anyway.
We Will Never Forgive or Forget Those Who Sell Our Public Lands is the name of a piece we ran last summer. It feels more applicable every week. Tomorrow morning, the State of Alaska is adding a $190 million line item to that ledger.
The U.S. House and Senate hold the keys here. The OBBBA mandate that compels tomorrow’s sale was written by Congress and signed by the president, and only Congress can rescind it. Find out how your senators and representative voted on every public lands measure of 2025 and 2026 in the Congressional Public Lands Scorecard. Call them. Tell them you want HR 3067, the Arctic Refuge Protection Act, advanced. Tell them you want the OBBBA Arctic Refuge mandate repealed. Tell them you noticed.
Tell them you noticed that the only confirmed bidder is using public money to bring oil companies to a place those companies don’t want to be.
Tell them you noticed the math has never worked.
Tell them you noticed what they’re selling, and you know we don’t get this one back.
Raise some hell,
Will
If you value reporting like this, become a paid subscriber. We’re funded entirely by readers. There are no other revenue streams. Two brothers and the people who read us. That’s the whole operation.
Alaska
First Alaska mule deer harvest follows years of fleeting appearances in the state
When Westin Nelson of Skagway became the first Alaska hunter on record to harvest a mule deer, he may have been doing the state a favor.
Mule deer, better known as inhabitants of the Rocky Mountain and Great Plains regions, have been expanding their range northward, including into Alaska. As they do so, they are expanding the risks of parasites and some contagious diseases.
The most concerning issue is the winter tick, or Dermacentor albipictus. It has yet to be documented in Alaska, but it has wiped out much of the moose population in New England and started causing problems for moose populations as far north as Canada’s Yukon and Northwest Territories.
In recent years, nearly half of the mule deer examined in the Whitehorse area were found to be tick-infested, said Dr. Kimberlee Beckmen, the Alaska Department of Fish and Game’s wildlife biologist. That is ominous for Alaska, she said.
“All it takes is one mule deer with one female tick on it to come into Alaska, and that would completely devastate our moose population,” Beckmen said.
Mule deer have been well-established in the Yukon Territory since at least the 1980s, and in Alaska, people have been spotting them on sometimes fleeting occasions for a little over a decade.
Most sightings have been in the northern part of the Southeast Panhandle, but some were as far north as Interior Alaska. Three mule deer were reported in 2013 near Delta Junction, one was photographed near the Fort Knox mine outside of Fairbanks in 2016 and one was struck by a vehicle and killed in North Pole in 2017, according to the Department of Fish and Game.
Though they are related to the Sitka black-tailed deer that live in territory stretching from the British Columbia rainforest to the Kodiak Archipelago, mule deer are different from their Alaska cousins.
The contrast is striking, said Nelson, the Skagway hunter.
“These deer are big, maybe twice the size of Sitka black-tailed deer,” he said. “Mule deer have enormous ears. They have ears like a mule.”
Adult Sitka black-tailed deer generally weigh 80 to 120 pounds, according to the Department of Fish and Game, while adult mule deer often weigh more than 200 pounds.
Nelson said he has seen mule deer occasionally in the Skagway area over the past few years. He had a light-hearted competition with a friend about who would be the first to hunt one. It was not until April when circumstances came together to result in a successful hunt — right in that friend’s yard.
“I just happened to kind of get lucky,” Nelson said.
The rules for hunting mule deer in Alaska, where the species is non-native and considered “deleterious,” are liberal. There are no seasonal restrictions and no bag limits. Even though it took until this year for Nelson to become the first hunter on record to harvest a mule deer in Alaska, state officials first authorized mule deer hunting in 2019.
The caveat for mule deer hunters is that the Department of Fish and Game wants them to submit tissue samples for testing. That is to screen for signs of tick infestations and for numerous problems like brain worm, also known as “moose sickness,” chronic wasting disease, different types of hemorrhagic diseases, bluetongue, worm infestation and other diseases or parasites.
Nelson provided abundant samples to the department: the hide, head and neck, liver, heart, lungs, spleen, lower colon and two lower legs with the hooves attached, according to officials with the Department of Fish and Game.
Importantly, Beckmen with the department said, there were no signs of hair loss or breakage in the hide, indicating that any tick infestation during the past winter was unlikely.
Nelson said he has been reading up on mule deer and the state’s concerns about ticks and other dangers. But he downplayed any contributions he might have made to state wildlife safety. “I wouldn’t say I’m super-noble or anything. I just wanted to get one,” he said.
Climate change, along with factors like road-building and agricultural development, have allowed mule deer to thrive in new territory even as some habitat is lost to development, according to the Department of Fish and Game.
Climate change is also helping spread the winter tick northward and westward.
The ticks do not travel on their own. Rather, they grow from eggs that are laid on the ground in the spring that grow into larvae that climb up plants in packs to latch onto passing hosts in the fall, a process known as “questing.” If they stay attached all winter, they develop into adults that repeat the cycle by dropping from their hosts in spring to lay eggs. Shorter winters and later snowfalls are increasing opportunities for successful questing by the ticks, scientists say.
In New England, moose have been found with tens of thousands of winter ticks embedded in their skin. The blood loss they cause can be fatal, especially to young moose. In Maine, for example, biologists in 2022 found that 86% of the moose calves they had collared died from tick infestations. In New Hampshire, the moose population now is only about half of what it was in the 1990s, according to state biologists there.
While mule deer can become infested with winter ticks, they also are able to get rid of them fairly effectively through self-grooming.
Moose lack those grooming skills. That results in moose rubbing and scratching off so much of their hair that they are called “ghost moose” because their bald spots make them look white.
Mule deer are not the only species expanding their range to Alaska.
Another such species is the mountain lion, also known as cougar. The Alaska Board of Game early this year approved a first hunting and trapping season for mountain lions. It is set to start on Aug. 1 in parts of Southeast Alaska.
Originally published by the Alaska Beacon, an independent, nonpartisan news organization that covers Alaska state government.
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