Alaska
A trip to Alaska — and back in time
A trip to Alaska to visit family and friends once again — one way to evade this July heat.
By plane, we’ll arrive in a matter of hours. Forty years ago, this month we loaded up our four elementary school kids — and the dog — and drove a station wagon 2,500 miles to our new state. It took days, not hours.
You don’t know how it’s going to turn out.
Alaska was definitely Terry’s expansive dream for our family. I would have stayed in our familiar Spokane suburb. With four decades in the rearview mirror, I can cheer those barely 30-somethings who really had no idea what they were doing, but they braved it.
The modest home and tidy yard we left behind were an estate next to the single-wide mobile home with the dilapidated front entry — a kunnichuk if you speak Inupiaq. It backed up against the woods — and there were moose and bears in those woods.
What did I learn from that humble dwelling? Gratitude for shelter and that I could live simply without humiliation. Not sure I’d heard the term “trailer trash” back then, but there’s no such thing.
We bought a house four years later. One year it nearly burned in a raging wildfire. The close call taught me that everything I have is a gift. That secret pride over anything is such a waste of head space.
We had more room in our two-story wood-frame house. We filled it with people — especially bringing the world to us through foreign exchange students. We hosted Germany and Japan and Brazil and Azerbaijan. Our kids saw beyond their turf and learned to take an interest in others and value global cultures.
They grew up tougher in Alaska. Maybe the word is more independent. No cellphones back then. The unlimited outdoors was theirs. I learned to set them free in the right sort of way — no fire-breathing mom monitoring their every move. It built their confidence. They are still fearless.
I won a national writing contest, scribbling away in our trailer house. I told the story of how I came to embrace Alaska. Living there 14 years I kept writing my experiences for this publication, and they kept publishing.
It had been my dream to write but I had to trip over Alaska to do it. The Far North gave Terry his dream of all the outdoor adventures he could handle. The 13-year-old boy who had visited his uncle for an Alaskan summer returned 20 years later and was not disappointed.
The friends we made are the same ones still there who we’ll be making the rounds to see this month. Alaska is like an eagle and once you’re in those talons, it doesn’t let go. Sharing that life makes for deep relationships.
Alaska threw so much nature at me I can’t live without it now. I learned my limitations. I will not hike off tundra and attempt rock — even if the view is spectacular. I will never get near a cow moose and her calf on foot, after listening to one snort beneath me while I stood on the deck. And probably I won’t paddle a canoe upstream again in grizzly bear country when the reds (salmon) are running.
This is a handful of the wisdom and experiences I collected before Terry’s career moved us south to Minneapolis — a direction not commonly associated with that city. Should we have moved to Alaska in 1984? There are some dreams worth tripping over.
Alaska
Governor Dunleavy Names Stephen Cox his new Counsel to the Governor – Mike Dunleavy
Governor Mike Dunleavy today announced the appointment of Stephen Cox as his new Counsel to the Governor. The appointment comes after the legislature’s decision to not confirm him as attorney general, despite his extensive legal and public policy experience and proven record of defending Alaska’s interests both at home and on the national level. Cox’s responsibilities will be to advise Governor Dunleavy on a wide range of legal, regulatory, and constitutional matters affecting the State of Alaska.
Governor Dunleavy also appointed Cori Mills acting attorney general for the Alaska Department of Law. Mills has been with the department for 14 years and most recently served as deputy attorney general.
“Stephen Cox has a strong understanding of Alaska law and the challenges facing our state,” said Governor Dunleavy. “His experience, professionalism, and commitment to public service make him a valuable asset as Counsel to the Governor. I look forward to working with Stephen as we continue advancing policies that strengthen Alaska’s economy, uphold the rule of law, and serve the people of our state.”
As Counsel to the Governor, Cox will continue to work closely with the Department of Law and other executive branch departments to provide counsel on policy initiatives, legislation, and executive actions.
“I am honored to serve Governor Dunleavy and the people of Alaska in this new role,” said Stephen Cox. “I look forward to continue supporting the administration’s efforts to promote responsible resource development, governance and opportunities for Alaskans across the state.”
Cox assumes his new role effective today.
Alaska
Why Juneau should be on every Alaska traveler’s bucket list
Juneau blends towering glaciers, the Tongass National Forest and rich Indigenous culture.
How cruise tourism could help and hurt Alaska’s environment
Although Alaskans rely on revenue tourism cruise ships bring in, some locals are raising concerns on the impact of tourism on Alaska’s environment.
Juneau, Alaska, is the only U.S. state capital not accessible by road — a remoteness that adds to its magic and appeal.
Nestled between mountains, rainforest, and the waters of the Inside Passage, Juneau combines Alaska Native heritage, Gold Rush history, and some of the state’s most spectacular scenery.
Visitors can watch humpback whales surface offshore, ride a tram above downtown, stand face-to-face with or even on Mendenhall Glacier, a river of ice flowing from the vast Juneau Icefield. Surrounded by the Tongass National Forest — the world’s largest temperate rainforest — Juneau offers a quintessential Alaska experience where nature feels immense, and adventure begins just minutes from the cruise dock.
Why Juneau matters
Long before prospectors arrived in search of gold, the area now known as Juneau was home to the Áak’w Kwáan, whose name for this place — Áakʼw, often translated as “little lake” — reflects a deep connection to the surrounding land and water.
Russia later expanded into Alaska through the fur trade, bringing Orthodox missionaries, new trade networks, and profound cultural change to Indigenous communities across the region. Though Juneau rose to prominence during the Gold Rush and became the territorial capital after the United States purchased Alaska in 1867, the city still bears traces of both worlds.
As the nation approaches its 250th anniversary, Juneau offers visitors a richer understanding of America’s layered history — one that’s shaped by Native stewardship, Russian influence, and the enduring resilience of southeast Alaska’s Indigenous peoples.
What to see today
The star attraction is Mendenhall Glacier, a 13.6-mile-long glacier that descends from the Juneau Icefield into a turquoise lake.
Easy trails lead to roaring Nugget Falls, while boardwalks along Steep Creek offer chances to spot spawning salmon and black bears. Back downtown, colorful floatplanes skim the harbor and the Mount Roberts Tramway lifts visitors above the city for sweeping views of Gastineau Channel and the surrounding mountains.
Ask a local
One of Juneau’s most whimsical attractions is Glacier Gardens Rainforest Adventure, tucked into the Tongass rainforest just outside downtown.
Locals and visitors alike love the upside-down trees known as “Flower Towers” — massive spruce trunks planted root-side up, bursting with colorful blooms. The display is a unique (and accidental) creation of master gardener Steve Bowhay.
It’s an eccentric sight that feels uniquely Alaskan, blending lush rainforest scenery with a touch of horticultural imagination.
Plan your visit
Alaska
Haines Quick Shop reopens after burning down in 2024
Last Friday evening in Haines, there was only one place to be: The brand new Quick Shop, a shiny new building stocked with everything from ice cream and gun safes to an entire row of Xtratuf boots.
It seemed that much of town was packed into the building on the Haines’ waterfront — the store had just reopened after burning down more than a year ago.
The October 2024 fire destroyed a string of apartments and businesses including the convenience, liquor and sporting goods shop known collectively as the Quick Shop.
“It’s a big day for our town,” Haines Mayor Tom Morphet shouted from the checkout line that stretched through the store.
Minutes after opening, some 50 people were already in line, with dozens more milling about. Many kids’ arms were piled high with goodies.
Further back in the store, owner Mike Ward was busy scanning toilet paper amid the chaos. In between greeting customers, and accepting their congratulations, he said it’s been a long road to get here.
“It’s a relief to finally be open,” Ward said. “But we got a lot of work ahead of us, so it’s not that much of a relief.”
Ward said he aims to have the store fully stocked and in order by the fire’s two-year anniversary on Oct. 5. He added that he rebuilt as quickly as possible because he had heard a larger convenience chain was thinking about moving into Haines.
“So that’s one of the major reasons why I got aggressive, right?” he said. “I didn’t even think about taking the money.”
But the money part hasn’t been easy. Ward had insurance, but his policy didn’t come close to covering rebuilding costs – or the $1.8 million in inventory that also went up in flames.
“I got hosed,” he said. “I took a $2.5 million loss.”
The loss was felt in the community, too. Haines’ grocery stores close by 8 p.m. most days, and even earlier on Sundays. The Quick Shop is open until midnight.
“I feel like not having anywhere to get food late at night is pretty hard for people. So I feel like everyone’s pretty excited to have it back,” said local Ryan Irvin, who worked on the crew that built the facility.
He added that it’s cool – and somewhat novel – for the community to have a space that was actually built for its purpose.
“We’re always retrofitting old buildings, making them work. But this is actually designed for what we’re doing, what Mike’s doing, rather,” Irvin said.
Morphet, the mayor, echoed that point. He said the new store is a testament to Ward’s faith in Haines’ capacity to keep it open.
“We’re only 2,000, 2,500 people here, so it’s kind of a shot in the arm to town morale,” Morphet said. “People like the town to have nice stuff, and this is beautiful.”
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