Alaska
A new frontier? How Alaska’s elections could show what’s to come for Nevada’s
ANCHORAGE, Alaska — Evergreens and aspens cover the luscious mountainscapes, and clouds settle heavy over Cook Inlet. The hum of float planes can be heard overhead as Alaskans travel to the remote wilderness, while locals drive to work.
Though at a smaller scale than the crowds who flock to the glittering lights and jingling slot machines of Las Vegas, tourists walk around downtown Anchorage, zipped up in light jackets in 60-degree August weather. They hop into souvenir shops that sell sweaters, hats and figurines of Alaska’s animals, and they take pictures with the bear statues set up around town.
Alaska’s soft greens and blues are a sharp contrast to Las Vegas’ rocky mountains, which burst with reds, oranges and purples at sunset, the desert landscape spotted with yucca and creosote.
Politically, though, the two states are more similar than it might appear. The states — both viewed as either a last frontier or the Wild West — have a large percentage of nonpartisan voters, many holding libertarian values. And soon, their election processes could become fraternal twins.
Alaskans are debating whether to keep in place their new election system of open primaries and ranked-choice voting. Meanwhile, Nevadans will vote on whether to try the system for themselves.
Nevada’s Ballot Question 3 was passed by state voters in 2022 by 6 percentage points. If it passes again in November, it would amend the Nevada Constitution by replacing the current closed-primary system with nonpartisan open primaries and a ranked-choice, general election voting system for statewide, congressional, U.S. Senate and state legislator elections starting in 2026.
Currently, Nevada’s nonpartisan and minor-party voters cannot participate in Democratic and Republican primaries. Under Question 3, all voters — regardless of affiliation — would participate in primaries that make all candidates from all parties go head-to-head. The top five finishers in a primary would advance to the general election.
In the general election, ranked choice kicks in. If a candidate receives more than 50 percent of the votes, that candidate wins. If not, the candidate with the fewest votes is eliminated, and the second-choice candidate on those ballots is counted instead. That process repeats until a single candidate reaches more than 50 percent support.
Supporters of Nevada’s Question 3 say the process will allow the state’s nonpartisans, who as of July make up 34 percent of the state’s active registered voters, to participate in the primary process and make way for more moderate, down-the-middle candidates. Opponents argue the system would cause mass confusion and disenfranchise voters.
In Alaska, the ranked-choice voting system, which passed by fewer than 4,000 votes, has its fair share of supporters and critics. A survey conducted last year by Alaskan pollster Ivan Moore showed a repeal effort narrowly passing.
Similarly in Nevada, it’s a close battle between supporters and opponents.
Alaska’s birth of ranked-choice voting
Elections attorney Scott Kendall, who wrote the 2020 ballot measure to implement Alaska’s new voting system, said ranked-choice voting never held a big appeal for him. Rather, he wanted to implement an open primary system, and he felt ranked-choice voting was the necessary pairing.
Two-thirds of Alaskan voters don’t affiliate with either of the two major parties, and in the 2022 election, more than 50 percent of voters split their ticket, Kendall said as he sat in his downtown office with a view of the bay. On some days, he can watch belugas swim in the distance.
Kendall said his “watershed moment” was when sitting GOP Sen. Lisa Murkowski lost her primary in 2010 by 2,000 votes to a tea party-backed Republican. She ran as a write-in candidate and won the general election by about 10,000 votes.
It was only the second time in U.S. history that a write-in candidate won a U.S. Senate race. The first time was in 1954, when Strom Thurmond ran as a write-in for U.S. Senate in South Carolina after the sitting senator died.
That 2010 election showed that primaries produce candidates who aren’t necessarily what voters want, Kendall said. While working with the Alaska Legislature, he saw a gridlocked, partisan body that was unable to solve its perennial budget issues, while legislators would confide they wanted to support something but feared losing their primary, he said.
“I think the old system was based on the fallacy that everyone lines up for the red team or the blue team, and that everyone has a strong preference between the two teams,” Kendall said.
How Alaskans feel
At the Alaska State Fair in Palmer, around 45 miles northeast of Anchorage, people milled about the stalls, eating ice cream, crab legs and popcorn. Among the Ferris wheel and rides, festivalgoers could pay to pet dog sledding puppies and drink local Alaska beer. Both the Alaska Democratic and Republican parties had booths set up, ready to educate and talk with voters.
Justin Warren, wearing a colorful umbrella hat, said once he did the reading and watched a two-minute video on ranked-choice voting, he found the system straightforward.
“It’s a way to get the people’s voice heard a little bit more,” the Anchorage resident said. “I think it’s a way to make sure that everybody’s voice is counted for, their vote is counted, even if it’s not necessarily for the person you wanted it to be.”
Addy Ahmasuk, a resident of Nome, located in far west Alaska, about 100 miles south of the Article Circle, likes ranked-choice voting, although she has not voted under the new system yet. She said a Native voters group sent out information on what ranked-choice voting looks like. She got to practice using ranked-choice, and she didn’t find it confusing.
“It was helpful to kind of go through it,”Ahmasuk said.
Back in Anchorage, at an eclectic house with a “Mary Peltola for Congress” sign in their yard, Wendy Isbell and John Farleigh explained how they like the new election system.
Isbell, who works for the U.S. Census Bureau, said she found the process easy to understand once it was explained to her. She liked the idea that she can vote for who she wants, regardless of their party.
“It depowers the parties,” said Farleigh, a retired commercial fisherman dressed in a tie-dye T-shirt and flannel. “Republicans are against it, but they don’t know how to use it. … They don’t understand that they should campaign together.”
At the Alaska Native Heritage Center, people strolled around Lake Tiulana and studied replicas of traditional dwellings as Michelle Sparck, director of strategic initiatives for the nonpartisan voter education group Get Out the Native Vote, recited the pitch she gives to Alaskan Natives to encourage them to vote: Alaska Natives make up one of every four registered voters, but they’re not voting like it, she said.
“We’re going to have a government with or without our participation,” she said. “We might as well have a representative government.”
Sparck said the closed primary stood as a barrier for the state’s Alaska Native community, who are much more likely to split their tickets between different parties than the rest of the state.
Alaska Natives historically have struggled with voter participation. But their participation rose during the special 2022 House primary relative to 2020 and 2018, according to a report from Get Out the Native Vote. In October 2023, the Alaska Federation of Natives, representing more than 170 tribes, voted to endorse and preserve open primaries and ranked-choice voting.
“We’re just glad to see a lot more engagement and participation and a different approach to elections than we’ve experienced for decades before,” Sparck said.
Kenneth Bradshaw, however, thought his ballot was too confusing.
“I’m not a college graduate, and I’m getting older, so I don’t want to keep learning stuff,” the 84-year-old longtime Alaska resident said. “I just simply vote one time for one person that I want in there, and if he makes it, OK. If he don’t, that’s fine too.”
Bradshaw, wearing a Trump hat and a flannel while sitting in his armchair as a Steller’s jay pecked at corn outside the window of his Anchorage home, said he doesn’t see any reason why the voting system changed.
“We’ve been voting this way for 200 years. Why change now?” Bradshaw said. “I can’t see the good in ranked-choice voting.”
Repeal efforts
When Bradshaw’s grandson, Phil Izon, learned that his grandfather and other older people were confused by the new system, he worked to get it repealed with Art Mathias, an Anchorage resident who owns an insurance business and likes to fly planes, hunt and fish in his free time.
The two gathered about 42,000 signatures and fought multiple legal battles to keep their proposed repeal of ranked choice voting on the ballot. They call their effort a “David and Goliath” story; the pro-ranked-choice group raised $4.5 million in August to keep the system in place.
The Alaska Division of Elections, which did not respond to multiple interview requests, has spent $3.5 million since 2021 on the system, including education outreach. The total cost to operate the election was $11 million in the 2022 election, a sharp increase from the $3.3 million that the average election cost from 2010 to 2020, Izon said.
Izon, Mathias and other critics say ranked-choice voting decreases voter turnout, costs more money and disenfranchises voters who don’t make use of the ranking system.
They said ranked-choice voting has led to voter disenfranchisement when voters “exhaust” their ballots by only voting for one candidate instead of ranking them all. If the race goes to a second round of counting, and the candidate they chose was the lowest vote-getter, their ballot is “exhausted,” because it doesn’t include more candidates to count in the race.
“Most people don’t know you can vote wrong now. You can vote in a way that has your ballot thrown out,” said Izon, director of Alaskans for Honest Elections. “You can’t assume voters are knowledgeable election experts.”
In the 2022 Alaska Senate race, more than 9,000 ballots were exhausted after the third round of tabulating, according to data from the Alaska Division of Elections.
Marcus Moore, a 39-year-old Anchorage resident, originally voted for the system. He thought it would be faster and cheaper. But after learning more about it, he decided it wasn’t a good idea, he said, sitting in his basement, where he produces a conservative podcast called Alaskan Rants with young protégés.
In many races, there are more Republican candidates than Democrats, and those Republicans end up splitting and diluting those votes, Moore said. Republican candidates are also splitting party campaign funds, while a single Democratic candidate gets all its party’s donations, he said.
Another criticism is the increased risk of voters making mistakes on their ballots.
Data has shown a higher error rate when voting with a ranked-choice ballot. A December 2023 study from the University of Pennsylvania that looked at 3.09 million ballots in 165 races in Alaska, Maine, San Francisco and New York City found that nearly 1 in 20 voters improperly marked their ballots in at least one way.
In the special June 2022 primary in Alaska, around 7,500 ballots were rejected, representing around 4.6 percent of total ballots — double the rate in Alaska’s 2020 primary, before ranked-choice voting and open primaries began. The biggest reason was a lack of a required witness signature on ballots, according to the Alaska Division of Elections.
Alaska saw abysmal turnout in its most recent primary election, in August, when only three races, one of which was statewide, were on the ballot. Around 17.3 percent of voters participated, according to data from the Division of Elections.
Proponents say it’s difficult to get voters to pay attention to August elections, with many people using the short summer season to fish, hunt and prepare for winter. Critics, however, say the low turnout can be attributed to the confusion brought by ranked-choice voting, and they say there is less motivation for Alaska voters to turn out in primaries, knowing that the top four candidates will automatically go forward to the general election.
In the November 2022 election, 267,000 voters cast ballots, representing 44.4 percent of registered voters, according to the Division of Elections. In 2016, voter turnout was 60.8 percent.
The state’s implementation of its automatic voter registration in 2017 increased the number of registered voters from 525,000 in 2017 to 608,000 as of September 2024, affecting voter turnout statistics, according to the Division of Elections.
Alaska takes a long time to release its results, which critics point to as another disadvantage of the system. But the massive state — more than twice the size of Texas — has always taken days to release its election results, because extreme weather affects the delivery of ballots. The state allows 15 days for ballots to come in before they are counted. The tabulation under ranked-choice voting takes only seconds, Kendall said.
How the candidates feel
Alaska’s sole U.S. representative, Democrat Mary Peltola, became the first Alaska Native to serve in federal office in 2022. She ran among nearly 50 other candidates during the special nonpartisan primary and made it through to the general election as one of the top candidates.
She wouldn’t have succeeded under the old system, the congresswoman said.
Peltola said ranked-choice voting gives candidates an incentive to be less harsh with their opponents because they have to court those candidates’ supporters for their second-choice vote. The nonpartisan primary helps elect candidates who are not entrenched in ideology, she said.
“We need people who are open to compromise and consensus, and we’re only going to get that if we have a system where we don’t have to go through a party to get on the ballot,” Peltola said.
Republican State Sen. Cathy Giessel was ousted during the 2020 primary by a party loyalist, and though she originally opposed ranked-choice voting, she decided to run again in 2022 and embrace it.
She didn’t purchase the voter database that candidates use to learn voters’ addresses and party affiliation, Giessel said. Instead, she started knocking on every door in her district, not knowing any voter’s party.
“I talked to a huge diversity of people, people whose doors I had walked past previously because we had partisan primaries,” Giessel said. “It completely changed how I went door-to-door.”
She knocked on the door of one voter who was a Democrat, and they identified a long list of things they agreed on, Giessel said. She told him that she respected that he would vote for a Democrat, but she asked him if he could choose her as his second choice.
Giessel was ahead with around 33.8 percent of the vote at the end of Election Day. When the second-choice votes were reallocated from the third-place candidate, she defeated the opponent who had beat her in 2020 with 57 percent support, Giessel said.
“This gives you a chance to really hear fresh ideas from all perspectives of the political spectrum, and that is a very rich experience. You just learn so much talking to everyone,” she said. “And if you are that kind of candidate that is willing to work with everyone, you don’t have to keep worrying whether the political party is going to throw you under the bus and primary you.”
Other Alaska officeholders didn’t see benefits in campaigning under the new system. Alaska Republican Rep. Sarah Vance won her 2022 election under the new system, but her constituents felt frustrated by it. She encouraged people to get out and vote anyway and name her as their No. 1 pick, she said.
Voters feel overwhelmed with the amount of information they have to take in just to make a sound decision on a candidate, Vance said.
“This isn’t about party lines,” said Vance, who proposed a bill in the state Legislature to repeal ranked-choice voting. “This isn’t about trying to get more moderate candidates. If you are a candidate who knows your district, and you work hard to serve the people and govern well, then you can win.”
Contact Jessica Hill at jehill@reviewjournal.com. Follow @jess_hillyeah on X.
Alaska
In US Supreme Court case over which absentee ballots count, Alaska doesn’t pick a side
Alaska’s appointed attorney general on Friday filed a friends of the court brief in a case before the U.S. Supreme Court involving whether absentee ballots that arrive after Election Day can be counted.
The filing does not side with either party in the case, which arose in Mississippi.
Instead, it informs the court of the logistical hurdles in Alaska — far-flung villages, lack of roads and severe weather — that make it difficult to receive absentee ballots by Election Day.
Alaska, like roughly half the other states in the U.S., allows some ballots cast by Election Day to be received later, the brief says.
The case, Watson v. Republican National Committee, challenges a law in Mississippi that allows absentee ballots received shortly after Election Day to count if they are postmarked by Election Day.
The Republican National Committee, the Mississippi Republican Party, the Libertarian Party of Mississippi and a Mississippi voter challenged the law in 2024. They argue that under federal law, ballots must received by state officials by Election Day to be counted.
The case could have national implications by influencing midterm elections, and comes amid baseless assertions from President Donald Trump that mail-in voting results in “MASSIVE VOTER FRAUD.”
The Alaska brief was filed by Jenna Lorence, the first Alaska solicitor general after Attorney General Stephen Cox created the role and appointed the Indiana attorney in October to fill it.
The 14-page brief says it does not support either party in the case.
The state’s impartiality drew criticism from an elections attorney, Scott Kendall, one of the main architects of the state’s ranked choice voting and open primary system.
“If you’re going to file something, take a position in favor of Alaska’s laws because they’re there for a very good reason,” Kendall said.
If the U.S. Supreme Court strikes down the law in Mississippi, that could lead to the disenfranchisement of many Alaska voters whose ballots arrive after Election Day, he said.
“Thousands upon thousands of Alaskans, through no fault of their own, wouldn’t be able to vote, and that’s not the democracy I signed up for,” Kendall said.
Under Alaska law, absentee ballots sent in state are counted if they are received “by the close of business on the 10th day after the election,” the filing says. Ballots from overseas must be received by the 15th day after the election.
Asked why the solicitor general did not take a position defending Alaska’s law or siding with either party, the Department of Law said in a statement emailed by spokesperson Sam Curtis:
“The State is committed to providing fair elections for Alaskans and will do so whatever rule the Court adopts. Alaska has previously filed these factual briefs to ensure courts understand the State’s unique perspective. Here, we wanted to ensure the Supreme Court knew how circumstances in Alaska make rules that might be simple in Mississippi more complicated in our State. We’re asking for clarity, so the Division of Elections and Alaska voters have straightforward rules to apply in the 2026 election.”
The filing notes that most Alaska communities are hard to reach.
“With over 80 percent of Alaskan communities off the road system, and extreme weather making access by boat or plane unreliable during certain months, including November, Alaska’s Division of Elections will continue to establish processes unlike any other State to ensure that its geography does not limit its citizens’ ability to vote,” the filing says. “Alaska asks that as this Court crafts a rule in this case, it provide clear parameters for Alaska to apply.”
The filing provides examples of how determining when a ballot was “received” by the Division of Elections is not always clearly defined, the Department of Law said.
In some cases, even in-person votes can struggle to reach the state elections division due to weather and geographical challenges, the filing says.
In 2024, poll workers in Atqasuk in northern Alaska tallied the votes cast on Election Day, but could not reach the elections division by phone that night.
So they “placed the ballots and tally sheets into a secure package and mailed them to the Division, who did not receive them until nine days later,” the filing says. “This exemplifies the hurdles that the Division regularly faces to receive and count votes from rural areas.”
The 5th Circuit Court of Appeals held that ballots must “be both cast by voters and received by state officials” by Election Day, the filing says.
“While that rule may invalidate laws like Mississippi’s delayed receipt deadline, what does it do in a situation like Atqasuk, where votes were cast and received by some poll workers on election day, but state officials did not receive the physical ballots or vote tallies until days later?” the filing says.
“Even more standardized voting situations in Alaska raise these questions,” the filing says.
“For example, when a voter casts an in-person absentee ballot in a remote area shortly before election day, the absentee voting official must send the ballot (in its unopened absentee ballot envelope) to the regional office, which may take some time,” the filing says. “Is the ballot ‘received’ the day it is turned over to the voting official? Or is it ‘received’ only once it reaches the regional office, where, for the first time, the Division evaluates eligibility before opening the envelope and counting the ballot within?”
“While it is clear when a ballot is ‘cast’ in Alaska (meaning that the vote cannot be changed), when certain ballots are actually ‘received’ is open to different interpretations, especially given the connectivity challenges for Alaska’s far-flung boroughs,” the filing says.
Alaska Lt. Gov. Nancy Dahlstrom, who oversees elections, said in a prepared statement that Alaska wants the Supreme Court “to provide clear guidance that protects election integrity while recognizing Alaska’s logistical challenges, so every eligible voter can make their voice heard.”
Cox said in the statement that Alaska wants the court to “consider how a rule that seems straightforward in some states might raise more questions in others. All we want is clarity in the rules.”
The filing also points out that for absentee ballots, many voters rely on the United States Postal Service.
“But unlike in other states, where mail delivery can be accomplished by simply driving to someone’s house via a continuous road system, USPS must use creative solutions to reach 82 percent of Alaskan communities,” the filing says.
In a separate matter, new guidelines from the U.S. Postal Service could also lead to votes not being counted across the U.S.
The postal service said on Dec. 24 it cannot guarantee that it will postmark ballots the same day they are put into a mailbox.
Alaska
Multiple small avalanches release in Juneau after city issues evacuation advisory
Two small avalanches released on a slide path of Mount Juneau, above the Behrends neighborhood, as Ezra Strong was on a walk this morning in the pouring rain.
The city issued an evacuation advisory about an hour earlier for Juneau residents in all known slide paths downtown and along Thane Road. Strong and his wife live on Gruening Avenue with their dog. He said he’s not heeding the advisory.
“I think in part because we’re a little bit protected by a rock wall and some other things behind us, in part because we have seen slides come down before on the main slide path that didn’t even get close to us,” he said.
During an online press conference Friday morning, the City & Borough of Juneau’s new Avalanche Advisor John Bressette said that many small slides reduce the hazard by decreasing the amount of snow that could be released in a larger slide.
“So it’s actually a good thing that we’re seeing smaller slides reducing the total snow load that is capable of producing an avalanche,” Bressette said.
Some avalanches released above the Flume Trail today. The Alaska Department of Transportation and Public Facilities confirmed numerous small avalanches along Thane Road this morning. The agency expects more avalanches this evening since the forecast shows continued heavy rainfall, strong winds and warming temperatures. The closure of Thane Road could be extended multiple days.
Some residents of the Behrends neighborhood have evacuated to friends’ houses or Centennial Hall, the official shelter set up by the city and the American Red Cross.
Carlos Cadiente lives kitty-corner from Juneau-Douglas High School: Yadaa.at Kalé in the Behrends slide path. He evacuated at around 11:30 a.m. in one vehicle while his wife drove behind in another. At a stop sign, he told KTOO they were headed to a friend’s house just down the street.
“We already had a go bag going and we already had the cars loaded up and ready to roll, and so we’re rolling,” Cadiente said.
He said this is the first time they’ve heeded an avalanche evacuation advisory in the decades they’ve lived here.
“It’s kind of an extreme measure, you know, extreme weather that we’ve had,” he said. “So we’re just kind of trying to be proactive and not be a problem,” he said.
Britt Tonnessen is the community disaster program manager for the Red Cross of Alaska in Southeast. In coordination with the city, the Red Cross set up an emergency shelter at Centennial Hall downtown for residents on Friday.
At the shelter on Friday morning, she said the Red Cross has been preparing for the last week in case of an evacuation.
“We’ve seen multiple fatal landslides and avalanches in the past decade,” she said. “Evacuating to a congregate shelter is not people’s dream idea. It’s a safe place to go. We do the best to meet the needs and we have incredible, loving, warm volunteers to meet people.”
Tonnessen said that anyone from avalanche zones, as well as those who feel the load on their roof is becoming too heavy, are welcome at the shelter.
She said they are prepared to take 150 people, and around 30 people signed in by the early afternoon.
Avalanche, weather and road conditions are expected to worsen this evening.
KTOO reporter Clarise Larson contributed to this report.
Alaska
Only in Alaska. Welcome to the ‘totem pole capital of the world.’
Native art has a rich history, but young artists want to expand.
Indigenous artists are fighting stereotypes, protesting appropriation and advocating for their own work.
KETCHIKAN, Alaska – An arched sign stretching between two city blocks welcomes travelers to “Alaska’s first city” and the “salmon capital of the world.” But Ketchikan, the first port on many Alaska cruises, has another nickname: the “totem pole capital of the world.”
Totem poles are unique to the Indigenous peoples of the Pacific Northwest. The ones around Ketchikan are particularly old and numerous.
“The history and the clans that own (the totem poles), like their animal clan crests, those are still living,” said Irene Dundas, Cultural Resources manager for the Ketchikan Indian Community. According to KIC’s website, its tribal citizens descend from Southeast Alaska’s three main Native peoples – Tlingit, Haida, Tsimshian – as well as other Alaska Native tribal nations. “We’re not black-and-white photos … We still practice our culture every day, and we live it.”
“Travelers should know that there are spectacular and diverse Indigenous experiences and stories across every region of the United States, each unlike the other and each transcending generations to get to them,” said Sherry L. Rupert, who is Paiute and Washoe and CEO of the American Indigenous Tourism Association.
Here’s what else visitors should know about Ketchikan, the “totem pole capital of the world.”
Why it matters
“Totem poles are often used to show like family history, clan relationships, crest animals, stories, events, or to memorialize a specific person or event, like a battle or a visit by a dignitary, those types of things,” said Hazel Brewi, a visitor information assistant at the Southeast Alaska Discovery Center, an interagency visitors center for public lands across the state.
There are more than 80 totem poles around Ketchikan, many of which are visible to the public, according to Erika Jayne Christian, program coordinator for Ketchikan Museums, which include the Totem Heritage Center, where the oldest totem poles are found.
Normally, she said, “They’re only really meant to last a generation – 70 or 80 years from the time that this giant western redcedar is felled and then carved and then raised in ceremony” until it naturally deteriorates.
However, in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, residents of Native villages on neighboring islands began moving to Ketchikan for various reasons, including job opportunities. When surveyors went back decades later, they discovered many totem poles had been vandalized or stolen.
“When it comes to the totem poles, our village was totally wiped out by an expedition that came up,” said Teresa DeWitt, who is Tlingit and serves as a program assistant for Ketchikan Museums.
To protect the totem poles that remained, elders from Tlingit villages on Tongass Island and Village Island and a Haida village on Prince of Wales Island allowed theirs to be moved. “It was a very big thing,” DeWitt said. “It’s not something we normally do.”
The Totem Heritage Center was built to house these totem poles, which still belong to the villages’ descendants, and preserve and perpetuate the traditions behind them, with continuing guidance from a Native advisory board.
Outside the center and elsewhere around Ketchikan, visitors can find newer totem poles, including recreations carved as part of a Civilian Conservation Corps project that began in 1930s and modern-day totem poles by master carvers.
“There has been a real revival effort, and so people are learning to carve and learning to do Northwest Coast design,” said Dundas. “Totem poles are just a little sliver of the overall beautiful, beautiful culture.”
What to see
Visitors can see totem poles throughout Ketchikan, but there are three clusters.
Totem Heritage Center: A $9 Museum Pass covers admission to both the Totem Heritage Center and its sister museum, Tongass Historical Museum. “You’re able to really learn about where it is that you’re visiting … where you are in place and time,” said Christian.
Single museum admission costs $6 for adults under age 65, and $5 for those who are older. Admission is free for children age 17 and under, active-duty military service members, and local residents. Both museums are in downtown Ketchikan and reachable by foot from the cruise port or the borough’s free shuttle bus during the summer.
Saxman Totem Park: Visitors can see recreations of historic totem poles, a community clan house and a working totem pole workshop in the Organized Village of Saxman, less than 3 miles from downtown Ketchikan. Totem park tours run throughout the cruise season, from late April to early October. They can be booked directly through Cape Fox Tours, part of the village’s Alaska Native Corporation, or as excursions through cruise lines. Self-guided tours cost $8 while Cape Fox’s guided tours start at $129 and may include additional experiences, like traditional dance performances.
Kristy Shields, who is Tlingit, recalls being told as a kid “that we were going to dance on the dock for big canoes and it ended up being cruise ships.” Now she helps pass the tradition on to younger generations as tours dance manager for Cape Fox Tours. “They are dancing. They know their songs. They know who they are. They know where they come from.” Saxman can be reached by Ketchikan’s free shuttle in the summer or $2 city bus. There is also a foot and bike path, but walking from downtown takes about an hour.
Totem Bight State Historical Park: More than a dozen Tlingit and Haida totem poles and a community clan house stand in this 11-acre state park, according to a guide on its website. Like many of the totem poles in Saxman, Christian said these were carved as part of a CCC totem pole restoration program. Park admission costs $5 per person from May through September and is free from October through April. The park is roughly 10 miles north of downtown Ketchikan and can be reached by $2 city bus.
Not-so hidden gems
Salmon Walk: This scenic 1.5-mile loop meanders through the heart of the city, along Ketchikan Creek, where salmon famously swim in the summer. There are various interpretative signs and points of interest along the way, including famous Creek Street and both Ketchikan museums. Visitors who don’t want to complete the loop can catch a free downtown shuttle from the Totem Heritage Center, which marks the path’s halfway point.
Southeast Alaska Discovery Center: This is a great point for learning about the region through ranger-led activities, educational films and elaborate exhibits. Three master-carved totem poles in the atrium represent the region’s three main Native peoples. Visitors can learn more through the Native traditions exhibit, developed by Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian elders so “they could tell their own story,” Brewi said. “The voices of the elders echo through that space and it is absolutely beautiful to walk through, especially at the quieter times of the day, because it’s all motion-activated and you can actually stand and just listen to those elders speak.”
The Southeast Alaska Discovery Center is located a few blocks from the cruise port. Admission is free from October through April. From May through September, admission costs $5 for visitors over the age of 15 and is free for anyone younger. Visitors with America the Beautiful Interagency Passes also get free entry.
Tongass National Forest: Ketchikan is nestled within America’s largest national forest and the “world’s largest intact temperate rainforest,” according to the USDA. Visitors eager to explore the great outdoors will find over two dozen hiking trails around Ketchikan, many of which can be reached on public transit, according to Brewi. She recommends first stopping by the Southeast Alaska Discovery Center for the latest information on conditions and bears.
Best time to visit
By far, summer is the busiest time of year with the mildest weather and the widest array of visitor experiences. Travelers hoping to avoid crowds may opt to visit early or late in the cruise season.
However, Dundas notes, “Later in the season, like in October, you’re really, really pushing it with weather and you have to be prepared for Ketchikan weather.” Ketchikan got over 12 feet of rain in 2025, according to the National Weather Service, and October is among its soggiest months.
She recommends visiting in July and early August, when various festivals are held, and packing a raincoat like locals.
If you go
Getting there: Most visitors arrive by cruise, including more than 1.5 million people in 2025, according to the Ketchikan Visitors Bureau.
Travelers can also fly into Ketchikan International Airport, a short ferry ride away on Gravina Island. Alaska Airlines provides daily service between Ketchikan and Seattle, as well as several other Alaska cities.
Where to stay: Ketchikan offers a variety of hotels. Campgrounds and vacation rentals are also available nearby.
The reporter on this story received access from Celebrity Cruises. USA TODAY maintains editorial control.
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Health6 days agoViral New Year reset routine is helping people adopt healthier habits
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Nebraska4 days agoOregon State LB transfer Dexter Foster commits to Nebraska