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A taste of Latin-American Miami with chef Michelle Bernstein

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A taste of Latin-American Miami with chef Michelle Bernstein


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This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Miami

I was born and raised in South Florida, which carries a lot of cachet in this city of transients, visitors from everywhere and multi-ethnic languages, flavours, sounds and cultures. This town is so much bigger than the Miami I grew up in. We ate a lot of Cuban food, which was the primary Latin- American cuisine represented in Miami at the time, as well as my mother’s Argentine/American-Jewish recipes. But today you can taste it all here. We were always known for having some of the best Cuban food and drink in the country (I believe we still reign supreme) but with the influx of so many Venezuelans, Colombians, Nicaraguans and so on, we now have so many choices, and they are just as delicious and as vibrant as the people. 

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Michelle Bernstein in her new Coral Gables restaurant, Sra Martinez

Here are just a few of my favourite Latin American places. Some I grew up enjoying, while others are more recent.

Puerto Sagua

700 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach, FL 33139

One of the city’s oldest and most traditional Cuban restaurants happens to be on South Beach. For me, Puerto Sagua’s food has always been something that vuelve a la vida (brings you back to life). Everything is delicious, affordable and you never know who might be sitting at the counter sipping on a café con leche or digging into the ropa vieja (beef and tomato stew). It’s old school, and I love that it doesn’t change (aesthetically or deliciously). I always get the fish soup; they specialise in seafood, but you can’t really go wrong. Stick to the classics as they are the best. puertosagua.org; Directions


Wolf of Tacos  

locations around Miami
Chef Eduardo Lara at work in his Wolf of Tacos pop-up
Chef Eduardo Lara of Wolf of Tacos © James Jackman
A woman’s hands spooning salsa onto a taco at Wolf of Tacos
‘The tacos and salsas make me and my husband swoon,’ says Bernstein of the Miami pop-up © James Jackman

The only place on my list that is not a bricks-and-mortar restaurant, but this pop-up is so good I felt it was a must. The wolf, chef Eduardo Lara, is so very talented. His tacos and salsas make me and my husband and business partner, David, swoon. David is from Oaxaca in Mexico, and he is not easy to please when it comes to tacos — it’s his favourite dish. Come ready to stand in line (it moves quickly) and, if Eduardo is making it, be sure to get the gaonera, with melting cheese and thinly sliced beef filet (though anything else he’s making that day will be outstanding). He and his business partner Pablo Reyes are always there, and they give great attention to service, even though you’re outside eating on paper. Follow them to know where they will be @wolfoftacos. thewolfoftacos.com


Madroño

10780 West Flagler Street, Miami, FL 33174

Just thinking about Madroño makes my mouth water. It’s a clean and bright little family-owned Nicaraguan restaurant that is so unassuming you will be surprised at the colours and flavours that come out of the kitchen. Everything is so fresh and well prepared. I recommend ordering the repocheta, a tortilla filled with cheese and melted on the plancha, topped with my absolute favourite kind of shredded pickled-cabbage slaw, which is used on a lot of Nicaraguan dishes. I go for the meat dishes because they are so flavourful and fun, and you can’t beat the prices. Have a sangria with your meal and a flan before you leave. madronorestaurant.com; Directions


La Camaronera

1952 West Flagler Street, Miami, FL 33135
A woman’s hand squeezing lime over crispy shrimp with Cuban spices at La Camaronera
Crispy shrimp with Cuban spices at La Camaronera . . . 
A woman standing at a high table in Miami’s La Camaronera restaurant, with its blue and steel industrial decor and a whiteboard above a fish counter covered with graffiti-style illustrations
. . . a seafood restaurant that Bernstein has visited since she was a young child

I’ve been going to this no-frills Cuban seafood restaurant since I was about five years old. It’s the type of place where you see everyone from truck drivers and families to people in suits having business meetings. It serves its own catch, including stone crab and other seafood and fish of the day, but go for the crispy shrimp with delicate Cuban spices or the minuta sandwich (a tiny, whole but totally boneless and butterflied fried snapper on Cuban bread with onions, ketchup and mayo) — it’s heaven on earth. The owners, the Garcia family, changed the decor a few years ago, adding tables and chairs to the stand-up-only bar I grew up at. But none of the recipes have changed, and the owners are the children of the original founders. It’s all in the family! lacamaronera.com; Directions


Bandeja Paisa 

9511 West Flagler Street, Miami, FL 33174

This family-owned Colombian restaurant has been around for about 15 years. The servers treat their customers like family and help you order — and there’s always a lot of food on each plate. Just wait until you receive your bandeja paisa. The platters of steaks, chicharrónes, chorizos, rice, egg, tostones, avocado . . . there’s more, and it’s all delicious.

Paisa is bustling — it’s always busy, always tasty. Be ready for bright lights from games on the television, loud music or just a lot of people, and it’s all worth it. The ajiaco (not your typical chicken soup) is always one of my favourites. Order more than you can eat and take it home to feast on over the next few days. bandejapaisa.com; Directions 

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Salmon & Salmon 

2907 North-West 7th Street, Miami, FL 33125
Mixto (mixed seafood and fish) ceviche with a glass of chicha morada (purple-corn juice) at Salmon & Salmon 
Mixto (mixed seafood and fish) ceviche with chicha morada (purple-corn juice) . . . 
The interior of Peruvian restaurant Salmon & Salmon, with a varnished timber wall on which hang a colourful abstract painting and plates
. . . at Salmon & Salmon, one of Bernstein’s favourite Peruvian restaurants in Miami

Small, family-owned and refined, Salmon & Salmon is one of my favourite Peruvian restaurants in Miami. What I love about it is that if you ask a local Peruvian where to get great ceviche or lomo saltado (a creole Chinese-Peruvian dish with steak, fries and tons of flavour), this is the place they will always recommend. My favourites include any ceviche they serve, though the mixto (mixed ceviche with seafood and fish) and the chicha morada (purple-corn juice) are not to be missed. Nor are the sudado (poached fish in the most amazing broth with rice) or the seafood, which is served crunchy and fried — somehow greaseless but tasty. And the service is the best. instagram.com/salmonsalmonmiami; Directions

Michelle Bernstein is a James Beard award-winning chef and restaurateur from Miami. Her new restaurant, Sra. Martinez, opens this winter in Coral Gables

What are your favourite Latin-American restaurants in Miami? Tell us in the comments below. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter

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Miami, FL

Patients left scrambling for care after Miami-Dade woman accused of operating an unlicensed surgery recovery center

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Patients left scrambling for care after Miami-Dade woman accused of operating an unlicensed surgery recovery center


A 38-year-old woman is behind bars after authorities say she operated an unlicensed plastic surgery recovery center out of an Airbnb in southwest Miami-Dade County, leaving several patients scrambling for care after her arrest.

Kerri Smith faces charges of operating an assisted living facility without a license and an organized scheme to defraud. Investigators say she collected more than $200,000 from clients seeking post-surgical care. Her arrest disrupted the recoveries of at least six women who were staying at the home after undergoing cosmetic procedures.

“I’m really disappointed. Extremely disappointed,” said Janell Dunn, one of the patients who traveled from Orlando for surgery and aftercare.

Dunn said that during her five-day stay, she saw about 12 women cycle through the property. She described chaos unfolding when deputies arrived to arrest a caretaker. “We were all looking at each other like, ‘What are we going to do now?’” Dunn said.

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Authorities allege the operation was unsafe and poorly managed. In court, a prosecutor cited complaints of overcrowding, bug infestations, rodents, and improper handling of medical waste.

Despite those allegations, Smith told a judge she had been working to bring the business into compliance, stating, “I got educated. Hired a consultant.”

Patients, however, say they were left with little warning to find new accommodations after paying thousands of dollars for post-operative care. Dunn said she struggled physically in the aftermath, forced to move and lift items despite being in the early stages of recovery.

“I’ve been pushing, pulling, tugging, doing things I shouldn’t be doing at this point,” she said.

Some women booked hotel rooms after being forced out. Tonita Caban, a woman with experience caring for post-surgery patients, took in Dunn. Caban said she couldn’t turn Dunn away after hearing her story through a social media group for post-op patients. She calls Dunn an “angel”.

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“And you’re here with me, and you’ll always be my little sister,” Caban told her. “Someone you can count on.” Caban said she is not charging Dunn for her stay, acknowledging the money she already lost to Smith’s now-shuttered operation.

Smith remained in custody at TGK on Wednesday evening.



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Miami, FL

This new Italian restaurant in Brickell only has 10 items on the menu

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This new Italian restaurant in Brickell only has 10 items on the menu


In a city where menus can read like novellas and cocktails arrive with enough smoke, sparks and theatrics to qualify as performance art, a new Brickell restaurant is taking the opposite approach and betting that fewer choices might actually make dinner better.

At Allegro Ma Non Troppo, a new 38-seat Italian restaurant that recently opened at 1000 South Miami Avenue, you’ll find exactly 10 food items on the menu. Not 10 sections. Not 10 pages. Just 10 dishes, period.

The concept comes from a group of longtime restaurant industry colleagues who wanted to create something that feels more like an Italian grandmother’s dining room than a typical Miami restaurant. There are no reservations, no phone number and no sprawling menu. Instead, guests simply show up, grab a table and eat what the kitchen does best.

Photograph: Courtesy of Allegro Ma Non TroppoAllegro Ma Non Troppo.

The menu follows a simple formula: four appetizers, three mains, two sides and one dessert. Among the highlights are a Caesar salad made using Caesar Cardini’s original 1924 dressing recipe from Tijuana, a Wagyu bolognese “lazy lasagna” layered with Italian sausage and slow-cooked ragù, a free-range chicken cotoletta alla Milanese and a whole branzino prepared with little more than olive oil, lemon and rosemary. And then, of course, there’s the shareable dessert course. Every main course is cooked in the restaurant’s single oven and there are no fryers anywhere in sight. 

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What makes Allegro Ma Non Troppo particularly personal is the story behind it. The restaurant serves as a tribute to co-owner Carlos Galan’s mother, who died earlier this year at age 102. Many of her belongings now decorate the space, helping the restaurant feel more like a family home than a polished dining concept.

Allegro Ma Non Troppo
Photograph: Courtesy of Allegro Ma Non TroppoAllegro Ma Non Troppo.

“The goal was never to create a perfect luxury restaurant,” Galan said. “It was to create a place where people feel genuinely welcomed, nourished, and emotionally connected the moment they walk through the door.”

Co-owner Vanessa Velez says the team hopes diners remember more than just what was on their plates. “We always want to touch the customer emotionally, because when you touch someone’s emotions, you leave a mark,” she said. “Our goal is to leave a lasting imprint on our guests’ hearts.”

Whether the 10-item menu becomes Miami’s next dining obsession remains to be seen. But in a neighborhood packed with restaurants competing to do more, Allegro Ma Non Troppo is making a compelling case for doing less.



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Miami biotech executive was followed into his condo by man who allegedly threw him from 25th floor

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Miami biotech executive was followed into his condo by man who allegedly threw him from 25th floor


A Miami biotech executive was followed into the skyscraper where he lived by the man, accused of pushing him off the building’s 25th floor, newly-released surveillance video shows. 

Justin Zelin, 35, was seen walking into Miami Beach’s 47-story Akoya Condominium with a bearded man Corey Hutterli, 37, following behind on Feb. 12 — three days before his death, NBC6 reported. 

Zelin, who was wearing a casual outfit, threw away some trash in a garbage can before walking up to the entry door in the high-rise condominium’s parking lot, unaware he would fall to his death.

Justin Zelin was seen walking into his condo building just three days before his death. NBC6

Hutterli, who was wearing a bucket hat, was following closely behind, carrying bottles of alcohol.

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Just three days later, Harvard graduate Zelin called 911 to report a disturbance. During the call, he ordered Hutterli to leave the apartment, WPLG reported.

Zelin, who had worked as a biotechnology equity research analyst at BTIG since January 2021, reportedly shouted, “Get away from me Sasha,” using a nickname Hutterli was known by.  

There was a bust-up and cops said, “During said physical altercation defendant Hutterli caused victim Zelin to perish due to blunt force trauma.”

Zelin’s body hit a path on the ground floor, according to surveillance video recorded eight minutes after the 911 call.

Hutterli’s defense team claimed Zelin “went over the balcony” after an alleged mental episode.

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Corey Hutterli faces murder charges after allegedly pushing Zelin off his balcony. NBC6

They claimed Zelin, who was identified as JZ in court documents, screamed at Hutterli in “what can only be described as a complete break with reality.”

“JZ can be heard ranting, claiming that he was killed by a homeless person, and insisting that he is dead.

“During this mental break, JZ ran in and out of the apartment, and then he went over the balcony of his 25th-floor condo and fell to his death.”

But the state of Hutterli’s body suggested something more sinister had happened. He had scratches on his cheek, and a cut on his thumb. 

Zelin fell from the 25th floor of the Akoya Condominium building in Miami Beach. NBC6

He was also in what “appears to be an excited state, according to police.

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“What’s going on?” a shoeless Hutterli asked one officer.

“Somebody, he freaked out, attacked me.” 

The cop asked Hutterli if he was alone, to which he replied, “No I don’t know where he is.
“I kept telling him to relax.” 

Hutterli then blurted out, “What is the situation? Did he jump?”

Pals described Zelin as ‘one of the best biotech analysts.’ Justin Zelin / Facebook

Cops then searched the apartment – which had items strewn inside – and they found Hutterli’s bucket hat. 

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There were blood spatters on the rails, and clumps of Hutterli’s beard hair were also found. 

Blood was also found on Hutterli’s shirt – and they found ketamine in his bag. 

Hutterli was arrested on April 8 and faces a second-degree murder charge, which carries a maximum sentence of life imprisonment.

Cops were able to make an arrest after Zelin’s DNA was discovered on Hutterli’s jacket.

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He also faces burglary with assault or battery, possession of a controlled substance, and drug paraphernalia charges.

Tributes, meanwhile, were paid to Zelin following his death.

“Justin was one of the best biotech analysts I have ever worked with,” friend Amit Jolly wrote on Linkedin. 

“His work was rigorous, thoughtful, and deeply coordinated.

“He had a rare ability to see around corners and articulate complex ideas with clarity and conviction. 

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“Our field has lost an extraordinary mind, and many of us have lost a trusted voice and friend.”



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