4 days in the past, I crossed the Delaware River and left Pennsylvania behind. I knew this might be an enormous milestone, however I hadn’t realized simply how totally different the Jersey path can be! The glaciers carved this panorama right into a patchwork of cliffs, lakes, and valleys that’s an actual pleasure to stroll via. It’s been one among my favourite sections of the path to this point. Immediately I’m taking a zero at Greenwood Lake, New York, and I really feel a world away from the PA mining cities I used to be mountain climbing previous every week in the past. As for the South, it appears like a distant dream.

Slippery Rocks

The 2 days out of Hamburg noticed the worst climate I’ve had on the path. Each few hours a thunderstorm would carry torrential rain, with a light-weight mist in between storms. I couldn’t see a factor from Pulpit Rock or the Pinnacle, and needed to think about the views from reminiscence. I acquired soaked to the pores and skin on my method down into ‘the Eck,’ the place I discovered a dozen hikers crowded into the Eckville shelter ready out the rain. There was simply sufficient of a dry spell for me to arrange my tent at a boulder subject close to Dans Pulpit earlier than it began pouring once more.

The subsequent day, Saturday, I saved on down the ridge to Route 309, the place there’s a restaurant and a hostel at an in any other case lonely mountain crossing. I’d had a field despatched to the hostel, so I spent a while there hanging out within the dry earlier than I walked over to the restaurant for lunch. I’d by no means gone in earlier than, although I’ve pushed previous fairly a couple of occasions, and I used to be actually pleasantly stunned by how good the meals was! In case you have the prospect, ensure to cease by Thunderhead Lodge.

The knife’s edge — the last word check of steadiness and traction on the AT.

The remainder of the day was a problem, as I’d come to the rockiest of the Pennsylvania rocks, a half-mile scramble alongside jagged cliffs referred to as the ‘Knifes Edge’. In good climate, this makes a wonderful day hike, with unbroken views of the Lehigh valley. In a rainstorm, it makes for a wonderful alternative to twist your ankle. I picked my method via the rock slabs as fastidiously as I may, and breathed a sigh of aid after I got here out secure on the opposite facet. The climate even began to clear, and by the point I reached Bake Oven Knob I acquired the panoramic view I’d been lacking for the previous two days.

The Poisoned Land

The rain wasn’t completed with me but, and I acquired caught in a single final thunderstorm because the bushes thinned out in the direction of Lehigh Hole. Vegetation battle to thrive right here as a result of the mountain is roofed in mine tailings, because of the operations of the Palmerton Zinc Firm. It makes for nice views, however on the worth of an unhealthy feeling, as if the mountain is below a curse that can take generations to carry. Other than one spring on the George Outerbridge shelter, all of the water right here is poison.

Sheep laurel in bloom at Lehigh Hole.

I camped within the cursed land that night time, simply earlier than the hole. Quaking aspen and sheep laurel grew there, with a couple of pitch pine and bear oak filling within the gaps. A far cry from the dense forest of birch, oak, and hickory that cowl the remainder of the mountain. I may see far north to the Lehigh gorge and the Poconos, and on Sunday morning the valleys have been coated in mist with mild peaks rising above. It was stunning.

My morning view of the Poconos.

On the opposite facet of the hole is a steep, steep climb via enormous boulders, which is healthier described as a rock climb than a stroll. I feel it might be the hardest a part of the path to this point, worse than Dragon’s Tooth. From the highest of the jumble of rock you may see Palmerton laid out like a postage stamp, subsequent to the continued devastation of the zinc mines the subsequent ridge over.

Palmerton and the hole as seen from the highest of the rock scramble.

The wildlife appear to love it right here, although. There’s deer and subject sparrows and prairie warblers, and I found a complete household of turkeys crossing the path. After a couple of miles, the forest closes in and the water’s secure once more. There’s a ski resort, the place I finished and had some lunch. After which there’s many miles of boring, rocky ridgetop all the best way to Wind Hole and past

Once I acquired too near the little poults, the mom turkey charged at me from the comb. This can be a image of her mid-attack!

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Round midday on Monday, I got here to a really particular place that’s simply missed. That is Wolf Rocks, the southern fringe of the glaciers through the Ice Age. The glaciers are what gave the northern landscapes their northern really feel, what made lakes and humpbacked peaks and slabs of granite out of a lot of the northern Appalachians. And, although Delaware Water Hole is a extra seen border to the land of the glaciers, it actually begins right here, six miles south. This rocky ridge with a view of the Poconos is the beginning of the geologic North.

The view throughout the river from Mount Minsi.

Lastly, 4 lengthy days out from Hamburg, I reached Mt Minsi and descended into the village of Delaware Water Hole. On this fairly little city with a bakery and a handful of previous motels, I arrange my tent on the church hostel and ready to enter New Jersey. The subsequent morning, I’d cross the Delaware and eventually be completed with Pennsylvania.

Crossing the Delaware

I bumped into a couple of previous pals at Delaware Water Hole — Woodstock, who I’d toughed out the snow on Roan Mountain with, and a man named Dingo who I hadn’t seen because the Nantahala. So it was more durable than standard to get again on the path on Tuesday, as I saved hanging across the bakery chatting with folks. However I did get out ultimately, and walked throughout the Delaware River on the I-80 footbridge. The rapids flowed down beneath whereas vehicles thundered by, making the concrete walkway rattle. An indication on the pavement jogged my memory that right here on the state line I used to be lower than 900 miles from Katahdin.

In the end, the tip of Pennsylvania!

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After a brief roadwalk, I became the woods and climbed up a mountain stream again to the ridge. Quickly I used to be on the path’s first glacial lake, Sunfish Pond. I sat within the solar on a rock and watched a water snake slither alongside the shore. The climate on Tuesday was excellent, and I loved clear views throughout the Poconos to the west and the Jersey Highlands to the east at any time when the path climbed to reveal rock alongside the ridge.

A water snake swimming round in Sunfish Pond.

At noon I finished on the Mohican Outside Heart, an AMC-run lodge at a former boy scout camp. I talked with some flip-floppers I’d met the day earlier than as I sorted via my newest provide field. Then it was again out onto the recent, sunny mountain, for one more ten miles on the path.

Crater Lake

I’d determined to intention for Crater Lake that night. It’s one other glacial lake alongside the path, and I’ve recognized it for years as a secluded swimming spot hidden away on the mountaintop. I arrived late, round 7pm, however nonetheless in time for a dip within the lake to chill off from the 90-degree day. The water was cool and clear, with faculties of tiny trout nibbling at my toes. On my method there I’d encountered a porcupine alongside the path, and I startled a beaver as I got here out onto the lake’s north shore. The night introduced a deafening refrain of frogs, nearly drowning out the whippoorwill close by.

Looking at Crater Lake from the swimming space.

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As I used to be consuming my breakfast on Wednesday morning, I encountered a lady who was out early strolling along with her canine. She was initially from Latvia, and got here out to Crater Lake actually because it reminded her of the forests and ponds again dwelling. Like me, she’d first came upon about it by phrase of mouth, and fallen in love with the place. As I gazed out over the water one final time, I felt deeply grateful that I’d had this opportunity to spend time right here earlier than shifting away.

Rain on the Excessive Level

I bumped into Woodstock once more that morning, and we walked collectively for some time. The sunny climate didn’t maintain up, and we have been caught in one other soaking downpour for about an hour. At lunchtime, the city of Branchville appeared alongside the best way, and I spent two hours hanging out at lakeside eating places consuming lunch. It saved raining via the afternoon, although, and there have been no extra views that day. I arrange my tent within the moist, close to a rock face which may have been an overlook in higher climate.

A crimson eft that confirmed up at camp as I used to be packing up for the day.

I’d been trying ahead to the view from Excessive Level, so I used to be fairly disenchanted when it saved on raining via the night time and Thursday began with mist and scattered showers. I finished within the park customer middle, however determined to not make the detour as much as the excessive level monument — I wouldn’t get the 360 view I remembered from my earlier go to, and it could simply be a steep, rocky hill. So I turned alongside the AT and left Kittatinny Ridge for good, after 150 miles of touring its crest.

Highlands and Swamps

After leaving the ridge, the path crosses the limestone and shale of the Nice Appalachian Valley for the fourth and ultimate time. To me, these valley crossings are a number of the most fascinating components of the path. The environmental distinction with the ridgetops is hanging, as you go via pastoral landscapes that you simply by no means see within the deep woods. In fact I like trekking via the rugged wilderness, however leaving the mountains makes a welcome change infrequently.

By this customary, the Kittatinny Valley didn’t disappoint. Actually, it’s essentially the most dramatic and diversified lowland panorama I’ve seen to this point. You begin by climbing rolling ridges of slate, crammed with glacial ponds and bogs, flanked by cliffs and jumbled piles of big rocks. Then you definately come out right into a slender, flat valley coated in marshland, the place the Wallkill River slowly flows north in the direction of the Hudson. Subsequent comes the steep ridge of Pochuck Mountain, whose rounded lumps of granite rise above the valley. And eventually, you emerge into a large, swampy plain filled with reeds and cattails, which the path traverses on a boardwalk to the valley’s edge.

The Pochuck boardwalk is a magical street throughout the marsh.

This complete space is teeming with wildlife. I noticed a fox quickly after I got here off of the ridge, and somebody I met in Unionville (an awesome cease for a bagel) had seen three bears. The marshes are filled with red-winged blackbirds and waterfowl, and there are beaver ponds within the highlands. By the point I reached the boardwalk, it had began to clear, and I acquired a sweeping vista as I walked amongst cattails and reeds, water dashing beneath, with skunk cabbage, inexperienced ash and willows within the wooded swamps.

All geared as much as spend the night time within the swamp!

In fact the mosquitoes have been vicious within the marshland, but it surely was price it for the surroundings. I truly determined to spend Thursday night time there, in a secluded grassy spot subsequent to Wawayanda Creek (pronunciation: “way-way-yondah”). I placed on all my lengthy sleeves and a head web and did my finest to disregard the biting bugs, whereas I listened to the crickets and the frogs and watched the snails amble alongside the blades of grass.

An amber snail chilling at my camp. My tent was coated with them within the morning!

The Mountain that Shouldn’t Be There

On Friday morning — yesterday — I packed up and climbed a steep rock face to Wawayanda Mountain and crossed the Highlands. There have been extra bogs and ponds, and an open forest of beech and sugar maple with daylight filtering in. Every so often a cascading brook would plunge down throughout the path. I assumed I’d have a simple stroll to the state line and Greenwood Lake.

Then the rocks modified from striped granite to pebbly brownstone, and I reached the ridge. This can be a lengthy, skinny mountain, referred to as Bearfort Mountain in New Jersey and Bellvale Mountain in New York, that carries the AT north throughout the state line. Its geology may be very bizarre. In the course of a belt of granite — the traditional rock that makes up the highlands — it’s a piece of a lot youthful sediment sure collectively by ironstone. The rock dates from a time when the northern Appalachians have been newly shaped, and the excessive peaks eroded away the sooner sands of the ocean. It’s preserved because of a fault block that dropped the granite deep beneath the floor, leaving the pebbly white-and-red “puddingstone” on high.

The path will get slightly steep on the puddingstone ridge.

I acquired to know this bizarre rock very properly, as a result of the path climbs up and down its face for miles going north. Blazes are painted on stone, and the trail climbs up and down with every large slab. Some climbs are so steep, there’s even iron rungs. However the views are superb. Hills curving away like waves in the direction of the horizon, the lengthy fjord-like trough of Greenwood Lake to the east, and — although it was too hazy to see it properly yesterday — the Manhattan skyline within the distance. It might have been gradual going, however I totally loved it.

Trying south at Prospect Rock, simply throughout the New York state line.

Late within the afternoon, I arrived on the street crossing close to Bellvale Creamery the place Andrea was ready for me on the path. She drove as much as meet me so we are able to pack up my previous couple of resupply containers, earlier than she leaves to do the Lengthy Path subsequent week. We had some superb ice cream on the mountain, and drove right down to the flamboyant little lake city of Greenwood Lake. I’m trying ahead to arriving in New England subsequent week, however in some ways it appears like I’m already there.

In a pleasant shock, we acquired to exit on a ship experience on my zero day! Shout out to Einstein for providing this “aqua path magic” ?