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Salton Sea is emitting foul-smelling hydrogen sulfide gas, triggering health concerns

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Salton Sea is emitting foul-smelling hydrogen sulfide gas, triggering health concerns

On scorching days when winds blow across the California desert, the Salton Sea regularly gives off a stench of decay resembling rotten eggs.

New research has found that the shrinking lake is emitting the foul-smelling gas hydrogen sulfide more frequently and at higher levels than previously measured.

The findings document how the odors from the Salton Sea add to the air quality problems and health concerns in communities near the lake, where windblown dust drifts from exposed stretches of lakebed and where people suffer from high rates of asthma and other respiratory illnesses.

“The communities around the Salton Sea are on the front lines of a worsening environmental health crisis,” said Mara Freilich, a co-author of the study and assistant professor in Brown University’s Department of Earth, Environmental and Planetary Sciences.

The Salton Sea is California’s largest lake, covering more than 300 square miles in Imperial and Riverside counties. Hydrogen sulfide is released as a byproduct of decaying algae and other organic material in the lake, where accumulating fertilizers and other nutrients from agricultural runoff and wastewater feed the growth of algae.

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Hydrogen sulfide, or H2S, is toxic and studies have found that health effects of exposure at certain levels can include dizziness, headaches, vomiting, cough, chest tightness and depression. Although being exposed to high levels in the workplace is a widely known health hazard, less is known about the health effects of chronic exposure to the gas at lower levels.

People who live near the Salton Sea, many of them farmworkers, have complained for years that the stench, which tends to emerge most strongly in August and September, can give them headaches, nausea and nosebleeds.

Freilich and other researchers analyzed existing air-quality data from three monitoring stations maintained by the South Coast Air Quality Management District in Indio, Mecca and the reservation of the Torres Martinez Desert Cahuilla Indians.

They worked with the local nonprofit group Alianza Coachella Valley to install an additional air-quality sensor on a wooden piling protruding from shallow water near the north shore. The sensor has often detected hydrogen sulfide at high levels.

Examining data from different monitoring sites between May 1 and July 25, 2024, they found a striking contrast. Although the monitor on the Torres Martinez reservation detected hydrogen sulfide at levels exceeding the state air-quality standard for only four hours during that time, the sensor over the water found 177 hours with levels above the threshold.

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The scientists said their results indicate that a significant portion of the gas that’s being released by the Salton Sea isn’t being measured, even as the stench drifts through the area’s predominantly Latino communities.

“These findings highlight the need for improved air quality monitoring and more effective environmental management policies to protect public health in the region,” the researchers wrote in the study, which was published May 31 in the journal GeoHealth.

The Salton Sea lies about 242 feet below sea level in the Salton Trough, which over thousands of years has cycled between filling with Colorado River water and drying out. The lake was formed most recently in 1905-07, when the Colorado flooded the region, filling the low-lying basin.

In the 1950s and ‘60s, the Salton Sea became a popular destination where tourists flocked to go fishing, boating and waterskiing. Celebrities including Frank Sinatra and Lucille Ball visited the lake during its heyday.

But lakeside communities deteriorated after flooding in the 1970s. Fishing waned as the lake grew too salty for introduced species such as corvina, and people stopped boating as the water quality worsened.

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The lake has for more than a century been sustained by water draining off farms in the Imperial Valley, but it has been shrinking since the early 2000s, when the Imperial Irrigation District began selling a portion of its Colorado River water to growing urban areas under an agreement with agencies in San Diego County and the Coachella Valley.

The lake’s level has declined about 13 feet since 2003. Its water is now about twice as salty as the ocean and continues to get saltier with evaporation. Bird populations have declined.

Hydrogen sulfide builds up in the lower, oxygen-deprived layer of water in the lake as decaying algae and other material decompose. During the hottest times of year, a warm upper layer of water forms. Then, when winds churn up the lake, some of the deeper water can rise to the surface and release the stinky gas into the air.

California’s ambient air-quality standard is 30 parts per billion, averaged over one hour. The study found that under certain wind conditions, hydrogen sulfide levels were on average 17 parts per billion higher at the newly installed sensor over the water compared with an existing monitor near the shore.

Sometimes, the sensor detected levels as high as about 200 parts per billion.

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People can detect the smell of the gas, however, at levels as low as 1 or 2 parts per billion.

“Residents exposed to hydrogen sulfide are impacted not only in their physical health — experiencing respiratory irritation, headaches and fatigue — but as well in their quality of life,” said Diego Centeno, the study’s lead author, who conducted the research while studying at Brown University and is now a doctoral student at UCLA.

“If you want to be active outside, go on a run or do something, and it smells like rotten eggs, you’d be more inclined not to,” Centeno said. “Especially during summertime, nobody wants to go outside.”

Centeno grew up within sight of the Salton Sea in the low-income community of North Shore. He said he was always fascinated by the immense body of water, not knowing why he never saw anyone bathing or boating in it.

“As water levels continue to decline, if nothing is done, this hydrogen sulfide gas really has the potential to grow,” Centeno said. “So the more we understand, the more we can learn how to mitigate and restore the Salton Sea.”

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The researchers said their findings highlight the need for increased air-quality monitoring around the Salton Sea, and for regulators to focus on hydrogen sulfide as a pollutant that affects people’s health.

Freilich said regional water regulators should prioritize setting of water-quality standards for the Salton Sea, a step that could lead to efforts to treat or reduce the nutrient levels of water flowing into the lake.

“The water quality in the sea is affecting the air quality,” she said. “It requires the attention of multiple agencies, because it is something that connects water quality and air quality, which are typically handled separately.”

The South Coast Air Quality Management District, or AQMD, regulates air pollution in the Coachella Valley, including the northern portion of the Salton Sea. In May, the agency installed a fourth monitor for hydrogen sulfide on the northeastern side of the lake.

“This H2S monitoring network is very comprehensive,” said Rainbow Yeung, an AQMD spokesperson, adding that there are currently only a few other monitors reporting such data in the country.

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Yeung said in an email that the sensor installed by the researchers is of a different type than the agency’s monitors and “may have higher H2S readings as the location of the sensor is over the source of likely emissions, which can be dispersed and therefore may not be representative of levels experienced by the community.”

AQMD issues alerts whenever hydrogen sulfide levels reach the state standard of 33 ppb at any of the monitoring sites. (Residents can sign up to receive these air-quality alerts at www.saltonseaodor.org.)

The California Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment has established a chronic exposure threshold for hydrogen sulfide of 8 parts per billion, a level at which long-term exposure over many years may begin to result in health effects.

The highest annual average concentration at any of the AQMD monitoring sites since 2016 has been 5.5 parts per billion, and annual averages have typically been less than 3 parts per billion, levels at which health effects are not expected, Yeung said.

The water that drains from Imperial Valley farmland and feeds the sea comes from the Colorado River. A quarter-century of mostly dry years compounded by climate change has prompted difficult negotiations among seven states over how to use less water from the dwindling river.

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As these talks examine water-saving solutions, Freilich said, policymakers should “account for the health impacts on communities” and prioritize steps that will help mitigate the problems.

California officials recently sent water flowing from a pipe onto hundreds of acres of dry lake bed near the south shore, filling a complex of shallow ponds in an effort to create wetland habitat for fish and birds, and help control lung-damaging dust.

It’s not known how these new wetlands might affect emissions of hydrogen sulfide, and Freilich said she and her team plan additional studies focusing on wetlands and shallow-water areas.

Consuelo Márquez, a Coachella resident who has helped with the research, said she lived for several years as a child in North Shore, where she got nosebleeds and experienced the rotten egg odor, a “really strong fishy smell.”

“I would wake up with blood on my pillow,” she said. When she asked her father about it, she recalled him saying: “This happens because of the lake, because of the air.”

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She said the study’s results validate the concerns many people have been raising for years.

Aydee Palomino, a co-author of the study and environmental justice project manager for the group Alianza Coachella Valley, said the study shows people are “breathing in pollutants that are under the radar of traditional monitoring systems.”

“This has the potential to have really far-reaching ramifications if it’s not addressed,” Palomino said.

Funding for the research came from the Burroughs Wellcome Fund, Google’s Environmental Justice Data Fund and NASA. But Freilich learned in March that the Trump administration had terminated the NASA grant under an order targeting diversity, equity and inclusion programs.

The researchers have an ongoing appeal of that decision, which Freilich said has been disruptive to ongoing work.

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“The community is who’s going to suffer at the end of the day,” Palomino said. “And it is unfortunate because now it comes back to us to fill in the research gaps.”

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Trump administration, Congress move to cut off transgender care for children

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Trump administration, Congress move to cut off transgender care for children

The Trump administration and House Republicans advanced measures this week to end gender-affirming care for transgender children and some young adults, drawing outrage and resistance from LGBTQ+ advocacy organizations, families with transgender kids, medical providers and some of California’s liberal leaders.

The latest efforts — which seek to ban such care nationwide, strip funding from hospitals that provide it and punish doctors and parents who perform or support it — follow earlier executive orders from President Trump and work by the Justice Department to rein in such care.

Many hospitals, including in California, have already curtailed such care or shuttered their gender-affirming care programs as a result.

Abigail Jones, a 17-year-old transgender activist from Riverside, called the moves “ridiculous” and dangerous, as such care “saves lives.”

She also called them a purely political act by Republicans intent on making transgender people into a “monster” to rally their base against, and one that is “going to backfire on them because they’re not focusing on what the people want,” such as affordability and lower healthcare costs.

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On Wednesday, the House passed a sweeping ban on gender-affirming care for youth that was put forward by Rep. Marjorie Taylor Greene (R-Ga.), largely along party lines.

The bill — which faces a tougher road in the U.S. Senate — bars already rare gender-affirming surgeries but also more common treatments such as hormone therapies and puberty blockers for anyone under 18. It also calls for the criminal prosecution of doctors and other healthcare workers who provide such care, and for penalties for parents who facilitate or consent to it being performed on their children.

“Children are not old enough to vote, drive, or get a tattoo and they are certainly not old enough to be chemically castrated or permanently mutilated!!!” Greene posted on X.

“The tide is turning and I’m so grateful that congress is taking measurable steps to end this practice that destroyed my childhood,” posted Chloe Cole, a prominent “detransitioner” who campaigns against gender-affirming care for children, which she received and now regrets.

Queer rights groups denounced the measure as a dangerous threat to medical providers and parents, and one that mischaracterizes legitimate care backed by major U.S. medical associations. They also called it a threat to LGBTQ+ rights more broadly.

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“Should this bill become law, doctors could face the threat of prison simply for doing their jobs and providing the care they were trained to deliver. Parents could be criminalized and even imprisoned for supporting their children and ensuring they receive prescribed medication,” said Kelley Robinson, president of the Human Rights Campaign, one of the nation’s leading LGBTQ+ rights groups.

On Thursday, the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services announced that the Centers for Medicare & Medicaid Services are proposing new rules that would ban such care by medical providers that participate in its programs — which includes nearly all U.S. hospitals. The health department said the move is “designed to ensure that the U.S. government will not be in business with organizations that intentionally or unintentionally inflict permanent harm on children.”

The department said officials will propose additional rules to prohibit Medicaid or federal Children’s Health Insurance Program funding from being used for gender-affirming care for children or for young adults under the age of 19, and that its Office of Civil Rights would be proposing a rule to exclude gender dysphoria as a covered disability.

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration, meanwhile, issued warning letters to manufacturers of certain medical devices, including breast binders, that marketing their products to transgender youth is illegal.

“Under my leadership, and answering President Trump’s call to action, the federal government will do everything in its power to stop unsafe, irreversible practices that put our children at risk,” Health and Human Services Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr. said in a statement. “Our children deserve better — and we are delivering on that promise.”

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The proposed rule changes are subject to public comment, and the Human Rights Campaign and other LGBTQ+ organizations, including the Los Angeles LGBT Center, urged their supporters to voice their opposition.

Joe Hollendoner, the center’s chief executive, said the proposed changes “cruelly target transgender youth” and will “destabilize safety-net hospitals” and other critical care providers.

“Hospitals should never be forced to choose between providing lifesaving care to transgender young people and delivering critical services like cancer treatment to other patients,” Hollendoner said. “Yet this is exactly the division and harm these rules are designed to create.”

Hollendoner noted that California hospitals such as Children’s Hospital Los Angeles have already curtailed their gender-affirming services in the face of earlier threats from the Trump administration, and thousands of transgender youth have already lost access to care.

Gov. Gavin Newsom issued a statement contrasting the Trump administration’s moves with California’s new partnership with The Trevor Project, to improve training for the state’s 988 crisis and suicide hotline for vulnerable youth, including LGBTQ+ kids at disproportionately high risk of suicide and mental health issues.

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“As the Trump administration abandons the well-being of LGBTQ youth, California is putting more resources toward providing vulnerable kids with the mental health support they deserve,” Newsom said.

California Atty. Gen. Rob Bonta’s office is already suing the Trump administration for its efforts to curtail gender-affirming care and target providers of such care in California, where it is protected and supported by state law. His office has also resisted Trump administration efforts to roll back other transgender rights, including in youth sports.

On Thursday, Bonta said the proposed rules were “the Trump Administration’s latest attempt to strip Americans of the care they need to live as their authentic selves.” He also said they are “unlawful,” and that his office will fight them.

“If the Trump Administration puts forth final rules similar to these proposals, we stand ready to use every tool in our toolbox to prevent them from ever going into effect,” Bonta said — adding that “medically necessary gender-affirming care remains protected by California law.”

Arne Johnson, a Bay Area father of a transgender child who helps run a group of similar families called Rainbow Families Action, said there has been “a lot of hate spewed” toward them in recent days, but they are focused on fighting back — and asking hospital networks to “not panic and shut down care” based on proposed rules that have not been finalized.

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Johnson said Republicans and Trump administration officials are “weirdly obsessed” with transgender kids’ bodies, are “breaking the trust between us and our doctors,” and are putting politics in between families and their healthcare providers in dangerous ways.

He said parents of transgender kids are “used to being hurt and upset and sad and worried about their kids, and also doing everything in their power to make sure that nothing bad happens to them,” and aren’t about to stop fighting now.

But resisting such medical interference isn’t just about gender-affirming care. Next it could be over vaccines being blocked for kids, he said — which should get all parents upset and vocal.

“If our kids don’t get care, they’re coming for your kids next,” Johnson said. “Pretty soon all of us are going to be going into hospital rooms wondering whether that doctor across from us can be trusted to give our kid the best care — or if their hands are going to be tied.”

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His computer simulations help communities survive disasters. Can they design a Palisades that never burns?

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His computer simulations help communities survive disasters. Can they design a Palisades that never burns?

In what used to be a dry cleaner’s on Sunset Boulevard, Robert Lempert listened, hands clasped behind his back, as his neighbors finally took a moment to step away from recovery’s endless stream of paperwork, permits, bills and bureaucracy to, instead, envision a fire-resilient Pacific Palisades in 2035.

As a researcher at RAND, Lempert has spent decades studying how communities, corporations and governments can use computer simulations to understand complex problems with huge uncertainties — from how an Alaska town can better warn its residents about landslides to how climate change is worsening disasters and what strategies the United Nations can support to address them.

In January, one such complex problem ran straight through his neighborhood and burned down his house.

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As Lempert and his wife process their own trauma forged by flames, Lempert has become fixated on capturing the flickers of insights from fellow survivors and, hopefully, eventually, transforming them into computer programs that could help the community rebuild the Palisades into a global leader in wildfire resilience.

“Otherwise, we won’t end up with a functional community that anybody wants to — or can — live in,” he said. “You can spin out all sorts of disaster scenarios” for the Pacific Palisades of 2035. If the community fails to confront them in rebuilding, “you make them a hell of a lot more likely.”

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Lempert doesn’t see a mass exodus from high-fire-hazard areas as a viable solution. Out of the more than 12 million buildings the climate risk modeling company First Street studies in California, 4 in 10 have at least a 5% chance of facing a wildfire in the next 30 years. (Out of the nearly 10,000 buildings First Street studies in the Palisades, 82% carry that level of risk.) And the areas without significant fire risk have their own environmental challenges: flooding, earthquakes, landslides, hurricanes, tornadoes, droughts. Learning to live with these risks, consequently, is part of the practice of living in California — and really, in most of the places humans have settled on Earth.

After The Fires

After two of the most destructive fires in the state’s history, The Times takes a critical look at the past year and the steps taken — or not taken — to prevent this from happening again in all future fires.

So, Lempert has taken to the modus operandi he helped develop at RAND:

Identify the problem. In this case, living in Pacific Palisades carries a nonzero risk you lose your house or life to fire.

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Define the goals. Perhaps it is that, in the next fire, the Palisades doesn’t lose any homes or lives (and, ideally, accomplishes this without spending billions).

Then, the real work: Code up a bunch of proposed solutions from all of the groups with wildly disparate views on how the system (i.e., Southern California wildfires) works.

Stress-test those solutions against a wide range of environmental conditions in the computer. Extreme winds, downed communication systems, closed evacuation routes — the list goes on.

Finally, sit back, and see what insights the computer spits out.

It’s easy enough to agree on the problem, goals and environmental factors. For the proposed solutions, Lempert set out to collect data.

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Poster paper with residents’ handwritten ideas now fills the walls of the former dry cleaner’s, now the headquarters of the grassroots organization Palisades Recovery Coalition. It’s through these “visioning charrettes” that Lempert hopes his community can develop a magic solution capable of beating the computer’s trials.

Robert Lempert holds a photo of his home before it was destroyed by the Palisades fire.

Lempert holds a photo of his home as it looked before it was destroyed by the Palisades fire.

The streets could be lined with next-generation homes of concrete and steel where even the tiniest gaps are meticulously sealed up to keep embers from breaching the exterior. Each home could be equipped with rain-capture cisterns, hooked up to a neighborhood-wide system of sensors and autonomous fire hoses that intelligently target blazes in real time. One or two shiny new fire stations — maybe even serving as full-blown fire shelters for residents, equipped with food and oxygen to combat the smoke — might sit atop one of the neighborhood’s main thoroughfares, Palisades Drive. The street, formerly a bottleneck during evacuations, might now have a dedicated emergency lane.

Every year, the community could practice a Palisades-wide evacuation drill so the procedures are fresh in the mind. Community brigades might even train with the local fire departments so, during emergencies, they can effectively put out spot fires and ensure their elderly neighbors get out safely.

Lempert, who now lives in a Santa Monica apartment with his wife, doesn’t entertain speculation about whether the Palisades will ever reach this optimistic vision — even though his own decision to move back someday, in part, hinges on the answer.

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Right now, all that matters is that change is possible.

He pointed to an anecdote he heard once from the fire historian Stephen Pyne: American cities used to burn down — from within — all the time in the 19th century. Portland, Maine, burned in 1866 thanks to a Fourth of July firecracker. Chicago in 1871, after a blaze somehow broke out in a barn. Boston the following year, this time starting in a warehouse basement. Eventually, we got fed up with our cities burning down, so we created professional fire departments, stopped building downtowns out of wood and bolstered public water systems with larger water mains and standardized fire hydrants. Then, it stopped happening.

Now we face a new fire threat — this time, from the outside. Maybe we’re fed up enough to do something about it.

“Cities shouldn’t burn down,” Lempert said with a chuckle, amused by the simplicity of his own words. “So let’s just design them so they don’t.”

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China’s Clean Energy Push is Powering Flying Taxis, Food Delivery Drones and Bullet Trains

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China’s Clean Energy Push is Powering Flying Taxis, Food Delivery Drones and Bullet Trains

As an American reporter living in Beijing, I’ve watched both China and the rest of the world flirt with cutting-edge technologies involving robots, drones and self-driving vehicles.

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But China has now raced far beyond the flirtation stage. It’s rolling out fleets of autonomous delivery trucks, experimenting with flying cars and installing parking lot robots that can swap out your E.V.’s dying battery in just minutes. There are drones that deliver lunch by lowering it from the sky on a cable.

If all that sounds futuristic and perhaps bizarre, it also shows China’s ambition to dominate clean energy technologies of all kinds, not just solar panels or battery-powered cars, then sell them to the rest of the world. China has incurred huge debts to put trillions of dollars into efforts like these, along with the full force of its state-planned economy.

These ideas, while ambitious, don’t always work smoothly, as I learned after taking a bullet train to Hefei, a city the size of Chicago, to see what it’s like to live in this vision of tomorrow. Hefei is one of many cities where technologies like these are getting prototyped in real time.

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I checked them all out. The battery-swapping robots, the self-driving delivery trucks, the lunches from the sky. Starting with flying taxis, no pilot on board.

Battery-swapping robots for cars

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Of course, far more people get around by car. And navigating Hefei’s city streets shows how China has radically transformed the driving experience.

Electric vehicles (including models with a tiny gasoline engine for extra range) have accounted for more than half of new-car sales in China every month since March. A subcompact can cost as little as $9,000.

They are quite advanced. New models can charge in as little as five minutes. China has installed 18.6 million public charging stations, making them abundant even in rural areas and all but eliminating the range anxiety holding back E.V. sales in the United States.

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Essentially, China has turned cars into sophisticated rolling smartphones. Some have built-in karaoke apps so you can entertain yourself while your car does the driving.

You still need to charge, though.

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Lunch from the sky

China’s goal with ideas like these is to power more of its economy on clean electricity, instead of costly imported fossil fuels. Beijing has spent vast sums of money, much of it borrowed, on efforts to combine its prowess in manufacturing, artificial intelligence and clean energy to develop entirely new products to sell to the rest of the world.

Drone delivery has a serious side. Hospitals in Hefei now use drones to move emergency supplies, including blood, swiftly around the city. Retailers have visions of fewer packages stuck in traffic.

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But does the world need drone-delivered fast food? And how fast would it really be? As afternoon approached, we decided to put flying lunches to the test.

We decided to eat in a city park where a billboard advertised drone delivery of pork cutlets, duck wings and milk tea from local restaurants, or hamburgers from Burger King. Someone had scrawled in Chinese characters on the sign, “Don’t order, it won’t deliver.” A park worker offered us free advice: Get someone to deliver it on a scooter.

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Undeterred, we used a drone-delivery app to order a fried pork cutlet and a small omelet on fried rice. Then, rather than wait in the park, we went to the restaurant to see how the system worked.

Very rapid transit

China’s bullet trains are famous for a reason. Many can go nearly 220 miles per hour — so fast that when you blast past a highway in one of these trains, cars look like they’re barely moving.

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In less than two decades China has built a high-speed rail network some 30,000 miles long, two-thirds the length of the U.S. Interstate highway system. As many as 100 trains a day connect China’s biggest cities.

Building anything this enormous creates pollution in its initial construction, of course, using lots of concrete and steel. Construction was expensive and the system has racked up nearly $900 billion in debt, partly because it’s politically hard to raise ticket prices.

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But the trains themselves are far less polluting than cars, trucks or planes. And they make day trips fast and easy. So we decided to hop over to Wuhan, more than 200 miles away.

Taxis that drive themselves

We rolled into Wuhan looking forward to catching a robot taxi. While a few U.S. cities have experimented with driverless cars, China leads in the number on the road and where they can operate.

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Wuhan is one of a dozen or more Chinese cities with driverless taxis. Hundreds now roam most of the city, serving the airport and other major sites.

But train stations are a special problem. In big cities, some stations are so popular that the streets nearby are gridlocked for blocks in every direction.

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That was the case in Wuhan. Autonomous cars have not been approved in the chronically gridlocked streets next to the train stations, which meant that, to meet our robot taxi at its pickup spot, we either needed to walk 20 minutes or hop on a subway. (We walked.)

Of course if you want your own personal self-driving car, dozens of automakers in China sell models with some autonomous features. However, you are required to keep your hands on the wheel and eyes on the road. Just this month, regulators told automakers to do more testing before offering hands-free driving on mass production cars.

We wanted the full robot chauffeur experience.

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Robot trucks don’t need windows

After a meal at one of Wuhan’s famous crawfish restaurants, we headed back to Hefei.

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We had enjoyed Hefei’s airborne lunches, but there’s a lot more autonomous delivery in that city than just food. China still has many intercity truck drivers, but is starting to replace them with robot trucks for the last mile to stores and homes.

The trucks look strangely faceless. With no driver compartment in front, they resemble steel boxes on wheels.

The smaller ones in Hefei carry 300 to 500 packages. The trucks go to neighborhood street corners where packages are distributed to apartments by delivery people on electric scooters or a committee of local residents. Larger trucks serve stores.

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Robot delivery trucks now operate even in rural areas. I recently spotted one deep in the countryside as it waited for 13 water buffalo to cross a road.

Subways get a makeover

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Cities across the country are rapidly building subways. So many, in fact, that China has become the world’s main manufacturer of automated tunnel-boring machines.

It has also pioneered the manufacture of prefab subway stations. They’re lowered in sections into holes in the ground. Building a new station can take as little as two months.

Nearly 50 cities in China have subway networks, compared with about a dozen in the U.S., and they tend to be popular and heavily used.

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As in many Chinese cities, people in Hefei live in clusters of high-rises, and many live or work close to stations. The trains cut down on traffic jams and air pollution.

And like so many things, new ones are usually driverless.

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The changes are spreading across the country.

Many Chinese cities have not only replaced diesel buses with electric ones but are also experimenting with hydrogen-powered buses. And driverless buses. And driverless garbage trucks. And driverless vending machines.

One such vending machine was operating in the Hefei park where we ordered our drone lunches. According to a nearby hot dog vendor, the brightly lit four-wheeler drove into the park every morning, though always accompanied by a person on a bike who made sure nothing went wrong.

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A robotic snack machine that needs a chaperone — how practical is that? But the fact that they are rolling around the streets of Hefei at all says something about China’s willingness to test the boundaries of transportation technologies.

Some ideas may not work out, and others might suit China but not travel well. For example, Beijing can essentially order arrow-straight rail lines to be built almost to the heart of urban areas with little concern for what’s in the way. Other countries can’t replicate that. Chinese-built bullet trains in Nigeria and Indonesia, which travel from one city’s suburbs to the next, haven’t proven nearly as popular.

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Still, China shows a willingness to take risks that other countries may not. In San Francisco the death of a bodega cat, killed by a self-driving taxi, has hurt the industry’s image. But in China, fleets of similar cars are operating widely and censors delete reports of accidents. The cars are improving their software and gaining experience.

As for me, after several days putting Hefei’s idea of the future to the test, it was time to head for my next reporting assignment, in Nanjing. By bullet train, of course.

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