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Immaculate Wilderness, Uncertain Future: Paddling the Boundary Waters

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Immaculate Wilderness, Uncertain Future: Paddling the Boundary Waters

Saganaga Lake was so calm that I could see boulders 10 feet below the surface. The water reflected a mirror image of the clouds above as my partner, Brian, and I paddled between earth and sky. On the horizon, a forest of white pine, spruce and cedar delineated the northern shoreline, in Canada. The border between the two nations floated in the middle of this vast lake, one of more than 1,100 within Minnesota’s roadless, 1.1-million-acre Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness.

It was warm for mid-September — high 70s. We found a campsite on a small island dwarfed by a towering white pine. We quickly hauled up the canoe and jumped into the lake. I lost my breath, embracing the numbing water and letting it strip away 48 hours of grime.

What a difference a day makes. The previous afternoon we were stormbound, sitting under a tarp hastily strung between pines, watching lightning flash around us as rivulets of rainwater slowly flooded our campsite. Every so often a red-eyed loon would break the lake’s surface carrying a minnow in her beak to feed her chick.

But a nagging concern kept pulling me from the present: The beauty of this thriving ecosystem is increasingly shrouded by the threat of a proposed copper and nickel mine within the Rainy River watershed, which encompasses most of the Boundary Waters. Environmental groups warn that sulfuric acid, a byproduct of the mining operation, could contaminate the water and endanger everything living in it.

I grew up in northern Minnesota and have been paddling these lakes since I was a young child, first with my parents and four siblings, and later guiding teenagers out of a camp based on Sea Gull Lake. Now I paddle whenever I can string together a few free days and secure a permit.

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Every year more than 150,000 people use the Boundary Waters, making it the most heavily visited wilderness area in the United States. At the height of summer, campsites on popular lakes can be in high demand. But “heavily visited” is a relative term; Glacier National Park, also roughly one million acres, welcomed 3.1 million visitors in 2025.

Designated a federal wilderness in 1964, the Boundary Waters stretches 150 miles along the international border and sits within the three-million-acre Superior National Forest.

The wilderness also sits within the five-million-acre 1854 Treaty Area, lands that the Ojibwe ceded to the federal government four years before Minnesota became a state. In return the Ojibwe reserved the right to hunt, fish and gather there in perpetuity.

This still pristine ecosystem of forests, lakes and rivers supports big animals like moose, black bear and lynx — and an abundance of mosquitoes. It’s not uncommon to watch a bald eagle dive out of the sky to spear a walleye, or to be lulled to sleep by the haunting trill of a loon.

There are almost 100 entry points to the wilderness and 2,000 designated, first-come-first-served campsites. Some lakes are no bigger than a pond. Others take hours to paddle across.

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Paddlers can find ancient petroglyphs, carved by the Indigenous inhabitants who used this natural superhighway to move with the seasons and trade with neighboring tribes. In the 1600s their trade partners expanded to include French voyageurs in search of beaver pelts. In the 19th century, Europeans began to settle in the region, including my great-grandfather, who left Sweden in 1883, homesteading a patch of forest 20 miles west of Ely, the western gateway to what is now the wilderness.

Wildfires, hurricane-force winds and other natural disasters have altered the landscape, but what has remained nearly constant is the purity of the water. The Minnesota Pollution Control Agency recently declared water within the Rainy River drainage as “immaculate.”

Immaculate water is not a given. An eyelid-shaped deposit, known as the Duluth Complex, that arcs through the Superior National Forest and portions of the Boundary Waters, reportedly holds one of the largest undeveloped masses of copper-nickel on earth.

Iron ore and its derivative, taconite, have been mined to near depletion in northern Minnesota. In 1978, the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness Act banned mining within the wilderness and established a 222,000-acre protected zone along entry corridors. More than a decade before the ban, the Bureau of Land Management issued two 20-year federal mineral leases on 4,800 acres of Forest Service land, one directly adjacent to the Boundary Waters and the other within five miles. Twin Metals Minnesota, a subsidiary of the Chilean mining giant Antofagasta, eventually acquired the leases, though efforts to mine were paused after the B.L.M. denied a third lease-renewal request in 2016, citing environmental risks.

Conservation groups, tribal entities, politicians and locals have been working together to permanently ban copper mining here for more than a decade, since the process for extracting the metal creates dangerous byproducts, namely sulfuric acid.

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“The only way to permanently protect this great wilderness is through legislation that bans copper mining in its headwaters,” said Becky Rom, a retired lawyer who grew up in Ely and is the national chair of the nonprofit coalition Save the Boundary Waters, in an interview last fall.

Twin Metals takes a different stance. Kathy Graul, the company’s director of communications, wrote in an email that Twin Metals would have to undergo years of regulatory review before it could begin mining, and “must prove through this process that we can meet the stringent environmental standards” set by the state of Minnesota.

In mid-April, after a decade of back-and-forth political battles, Congress narrowly overturned a mining ban instituted by the Biden administration. In an email, Representative Pete Stauber, Republican of Minnesota, said he was thrilled that the Senate passed his resolution, citing the development of critical minerals, helium and other natural resources. “The passage of this legislation is not an automatic green light for any proposed project,” he wrote. “Now, established federal and state permitting processes will determine the outcome.”

The resolution prevents a future Department of Interior from issuing similar protections without new congressional authorization. In response to the vote, Ingrid Lyons, the executive director of Save the Boundary Waters, said that “Congress has set a dangerous precedent for America’s public lands across the country.”

Ultimately, it is a state agency, Minnesota’s Department of Natural Resources, that will grant or deny the permit to mine, a process that may take years. In the meantime, a bill is pending in the Minnesota Legislature that prohibits copper mining in the headwaters of the Boundary Waters. Minnesotans could also pass an amendment to their Constitution to enshrine such a prohibition.

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The beauty of the Boundary Waters is that excursions can be epic, weekslong adventures or short overnight trips to one lake. Brian and I had only a long weekend. Our plan was to paddle and portage roughly 20 miles through a chain of lakes, stopping to swim when the spirit moved us.

After a late start on the first day, under a bluebird sky with a light headwind, we met up at noon on Sea Gull Lake with Jim Wiinanen, 78, my old boss and the former director of a youth camp where I worked. Jim first set foot in the Boundary Waters in 1963 and hasn’t strayed far since, living 60 miles away in Grand Marais. Among other wilderness skills, Jim taught me how to use a compass, which feels quaint in the age of GPS, but is still invaluable when route-finding on a lake immersed in fog.

When I led canoe trips out of Sea Gull Lake in the early 1990s, we’d leave the comfort and safety of camp behind, paddling the narrow maze between the mainland and a string of islands that was lined by towering white pines and fragrant cedar. I felt exuberant and free until the 3,958-acre lake opened into an immense and intimidating expanse, at which point it would sink in that I was responsible for the health and well-being of eight other people, sometimes for up to two weeks.

Parts of Sea Gull’s shoreline are still densely forested. But a series of weather events — including powerful windstorms in 1999 and major fires in 2005, 2006 and 2007 — have drastically altered thousands of acres of forest, leaving behind a sparse, alien landscape of broken, charred trees.

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Paddling Sea Gull Lake after the fires was gut-wrenching. Slowly, life has bounced back. I marveled at the clusters of young birch standing 15 feet high as we ate lunch at an island campsite near the southwestern corner of the lake.

“We are blessed with a natural system that from the beginning has absorbed catastrophic changes,” Jim said, diving into a turkey sandwich. “The ecosystem may not look the same, but it’s still there.”

We ate in silence, enjoying the warm rays of a weakening September sun. Inevitably we circled back — as most conversations in these parts do — to the omnipresent cloud of sulfide-ore copper mining.

“The scary part is the water,” Jim said. “ You probably won’t see the mercury accumulation, and you probably won’t see sulfuric acid accumulation. But how can anything live here if the lakes are poisoned?”


How to reserve a permit: Plan your trip early. Permits are required between May 1 and Sept. 30, and quotas limit the number of visitors. Reservations on Recreation.gov open in the morning on the last Wednesday of January. The most popular put-ins go within minutes, so have a backup plan. Group size is limited to nine people and four canoes.

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How to get there: The western gateway to the Boundary Waters is Ely; the eastern gateway is Grand Marais, which marks the beginning of the Gunflint Trail, a scenic byway; and there are multiple points of entry in between. Seasoned outfitters in both towns and along the Gunflint Trail offer every level of service, from canoe rentals to fully guided trips.

What to bring: Come prepared for a wide range of temperatures from May through September, from below freezing to 90 degrees. Bring layers, rain gear, tick and mosquito repellent, sturdy shoes and an extra dry pair for the campsite. Fisher or McKenzie maps, both of which are waterproof and show designated campsites and portages, are essential, as is a compass or a dedicated GPS device, which is usually more durable than a smartphone.

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Pacifica pier cracks, another coastal casualty as seas continue to rise

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Pacifica pier cracks, another coastal casualty as seas continue to rise

The Pacifica Municipal Pier was shut down and taped off Thursday after city workers noticed cracks running through the landmark structure and concrete chunks falling into the ocean.

It’s just one of many coastal California structures that have recently crumbled under pressure from a rising and relentless ocean.

Officials from the small, beach city south of San Francisco said the pier was closed due to “cracking, separation, and displacement of the concrete walkway and structural elements.”

It will stay closed while structural engineers asses its safety.

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Photos taken by city employees show a wide crack that runs from top to bottom and across the structure as well. Other photos show a large horizontal crack under the foundation of a small restaurant on the pier, the Chit Chat Cafe.

The cafe was also shut down.

This is not the first time the 53-year-old pier has shown signs of stress. In 2021, part of it was shut down after handrails along the edge collapsed. And in 2023, after a series of storms pummeled the Central California coast, damaging parts of the pier, the structure was partially closed for more than year.

Those same storms caused extensive damage in Aptos and Capitola, 70 miles south, where piers and waterfront infrastructure were swept away or damaged.

In 2024, a 150- to 180- foot section of the Santa Cruz wharf was ripped off by powerful waves.

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At least 10 of the state’s dozens of coastal public piers were closed for part or all of 2024 due to structural damage sustained in winter storms since 2022. At least five others have longer-term upgrades planned to address structural issues.

“These things are costly to maintain,” said Zach Plopper, senior environmental director at Surfrider. “They are a part of our California coastal culture in many ways, but we’re going to need to reckon with, one, the state that they’re in, and two, the continuous and worsening threats they’re going to experience,”

He said most of the piers were constructed in the early 1900s, and they weren’t built to withstand decades of rough seas, storms and rising sea level.

“With this incoming El Niño, which is forecasted to be significant, and this marine heat wave we’re in the midst of, we’re kind of in uncharted waters as far as what this winter could bring in terms of storms and swells to the California coast, and we’re likely going to see a lot more damage,” he said. “Not just piers, but roads and other coastal infrastructure up and down the state.”

There was no storm in Pacifica earlier this week, so no single event could be blamed for the destruction.

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However, a 2025 report from an outside engineering firm, GHD, found that several sections of the pier were in “poor” or “serious” condition, and they recommended closure before anticipated storms or events that could “subject the piles to high winds, swells and large waves.”

The firm found several areas of the pier where concrete was missing and rebar was exposed and corroding.

“The pier has continued to experience high winds and large waves in a harsh marine environment,” the engineers wrote in the report, noting that continuous exposure to seawater or marine spray was “detrimental” to the structure.

A 2023 city report estimated it would cost $19 million to repair.

That same year, a state law was enacted to require local governments along the California coast to plan for sea level rise in the coming decades.

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Sea level has risen some 8 inches, on average, along the coast in the past 150 years, Plopper said, and researchers anticipate another foot in the next 25 years.

“We’re going to see profound shifts on our coastline, none that we have ever experienced before, and building static structures on the coast just doesn’t work all that well,” he said. “We’re going to have to make some really hard decisions.”

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L.A. region begins the year with the smoggiest first 5 months in a decade

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L.A. region begins the year with the smoggiest first 5 months in a decade

The first five months of 2026 in Southern California have been the smoggiest — with the highest number of unhealtful air days — in more than a decade, according to statewide air monitoring.

So far this year, the South Coast air basin, which includes Los Angeles, Orange, Riverside and San Bernardino counties, has seen 39 days when the concentration of lung-irritating ozone (commonly known as smog) exceeded the federal standard, according to preliminary state air quality data.

That’s even worse than the infamously hot and hazy 2017, when Greater Los Angeles had 36 unhealthful air days by June 4 and ultimately saw 145.

Many of the roughly 18 million people who live in the air basin have been subjected to unhealthful levels of ozone, a highly corrosive gas that triggers asthma attacks and a wide range of respiratory illnesses. This has taken many by surprise since successive days of smog more commonly happen in summer, when heat waves and intense sunlight convert man-made pollution into ozone.

“If we have this many violations by this time, this could be a really awful year for air quality,” said Adrian Martinez, director of Earthjustice’s Right to Zero campaign, an initiative calling for the transition away from fossil fuels. “We’re already the worst place in the country for summertime smog pollution. So it could be one of the worst years in one of the worst places in the country.”

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The pollution has been especially severe in valleys. On April 18, an air monitor in Reseda in the San Fernando Valley measured the second highest spike in hourly ozone levels in the last decade.

Greater Los Angeles has seen more high-smog days so far in 2026 than any other year in the past decade.

(Courtesy of South Coast Air Quality Management District)

The South Coast Air Quality Management District says the high ozone levels are due to early heat waves. Officials said they were not aware of any increase in the pollutants — most of them from different kinds of exhaust — that lead to ozone formation.

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Local temperatures have been well above normal, climbing into the mid-80s and high 90s between January and April, breaking several daily high temperature records, according to the National Weather Service.

March in particular was the warmest on record in California. Riverside had an unprecedented 13 days of temperatures above 90 degrees, the weather service said.

“It was really that heat wave — conditions we typically see in July or August, we saw them in March,” said Sarah Rees, deputy executive officer of the air district. “That put us ahead of the curve in terms of how much ozone we got.”

Air district officials urged residents to monitor pollution levels on the agency’s website and mobile app, and spend only limited time outdoors when smog levels are high.

“People generally know when there’s a wildfire, because you see the smoke and smell it,” said Scott Epstein, the air district’s manager of planning and rules. “Then, it’s like, I’ve got to take precautions. Ozone, you can’t really tell.”

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Southern California has been particularly susceptible to smog formation because of its millions of gas-powered cars releasing tons of tailpipe emissions each day. The region’s sunshine acts as a catalyst for smog formation. Then the mountains trap this pollution over densely populated communities.

For nearly half a century, state and local air regulators have made rules designed to alleviate this pollution, enacting the nation’s first tailpipe emission standards in 1966 and requiring catalytic converters in 1975.

Smog-forming pollution has been dramatically reduced over the last two decades, but the region still does not meet federal air quality standards for ozone.

At an air district meeting Friday in Diamond Bar, the governing board held a moment of silence for William Burke, a former longtime chair. During his tenure, the agency enacted nearly 270 rules that are credited with reducing smog-forming pollution by hundreds of tons per day. Burke, who also founded the Los Angeles Marathon, died in May at 87.

“Those are just emission reductions,” air district Chair Michael Cacciotti said at the Friday meeting. “But what it doesn’t tell you is how many kids, families, seniors were prevented from going to the hospital from an asthma attack, didn’t get cancer or other respiratory problems.”

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Several residents from the Inland Empire, which suffers some of the worst smog pollution, expressed their appreciation for the air district’s efforts. But they also stressed the need for more progress.

“I’m old enough to remember growing up in the ‘70s and ‘80s … and not being able to see the mountains for weeks and months at a time,” said Erik Morden, one of several residents who spoke at the meeting.” I know things have improved, and I want to thank all of you for all the hard work that you’re doing. But there’s a lot of invisible stuff that you don’t see, that’s still out there — a lot of particulates in the ozone and chemicals that are causing a lot of problems.”

Martinez, the Earthjustice attorney, said the abnormally early outbreak of smog should be a wake-up call to government regulators that there’s work to be done, including offering more incentives to help residents and businesses transition to zero-emission appliances.

“We shouldn’t over-complicate it. We’ve got a lot of heat, we’ve got a lot of pollution,” Martinez said. “Our contention is, this agency can’t control the weather. But the one thing it can control is the pollution.”

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A flesh-eating worm from the 1960s is re-invading the U.S. Are CA cattle at risk?

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A flesh-eating worm from the 1960s is re-invading the U.S. Are CA cattle at risk?

Federal agricultural inspectors detected a case of New World screwworm larvae — maggots that burrow into the flesh of living animals and sometimes humans — on a 3-week-old calf in south Texas, near the U.S.-Mexico border. Officials anticipated the arrival of screwworm in the United States and say they’re prepared to contain it.

New World screwworm, also known as Cochliomyia hominivorax, is starkly different from the average maggot that feeds on decaying organic matter such as garbage, rotting food or dead animals, said Tom Talbot, veterinarian and member of the California Cattlemen’s Assn.

That’s because a screwworm larva “attacks living flesh,” Talbot said.

On Thursday, the U.S. Department of Agriculture confirmed the detection of New World screwworm in the umbilical area of a bovine in Zavala County, Texas, more than 60 miles from the northern Mexico border.

As of Friday morning, there have been no additional cases of infected animals reported.

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Screwworm is endemic in South America and parts of the Caribbean, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. However, the parasitic fly has been steadily moving north from Central America to Mexico since 2023.

The USDA says it has actively monitored the fly’s movement. Last month, the USDA was aware of more than 200 active screwworm infestation cases in the border states of Nuevo León and Tamaulipas, according to Mexico’s Secretary of Agriculture and Rural Development dashboard. There are currently more than 2,000 active cases throughout Mexico.

It was believed that the New World screwworm would enter the U.S. in 2025, “however, thanks to the hard work across the entire Trump administration and our industry, state, and local partners, we were able to buy time for this moment,” said Dudley Hoskins, undersecretary for Marketing and Regulatory Programs for the USDA, in a statement.

The potential economic impact of New World screwworm on the cattle industry due to import restrictions, reduced productivity and animal loss is substantial, said Sally DeNotta, director of the University of Florida’s Equine Performance Laboratory.

Last year, 175 key agricultural organizations signed a letter urging additional federal funding for screwworm-control measures, emphasizing USDA estimates that a New World screwworm outbreak in the U.S. could cost producers $4.3 billion annually and cause economic losses of more than $10.6 billion across the southern United States.

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“While the fly does not survive at temperatures at or below freezing, infected animals could carry the parasite northward and spread infection during the summer months, and the temperate climate of Southern California could certainly support year-round New World screwworm populations,” DeNotta said.

Talbot said from the federal to the local level, everyone in the ranching community has been talking about the arrival of screwworm and how to combat it.

“My expectation is that there will be a minimal number of cases of [New World screwworm] in California,” he said.

That’s because there are several stations on the border in Southern California, he said, that are collecting data, monitoring for any incidents of the parasitic fly and trapping them.

Talbot says he’s confident that the proactive measures on behalf of the federal government will mitigate the screwworm’s reach and therefore not impact the beef supply locally or nationally.

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How screwworm infection spreads

Female screwworm flies are attracted to the smell of wounds — that can be as small as a tick bite — and body openings such as the nose, eyes, ears and mouth where they can lay eggs, according to the CDC.

A female screwworm fly can lay 200 to 300 eggs at a time and may lay up to 3,000 eggs during her 10 to 30-day lifespan.

When the eggs hatch into maggots, the maggots eat live tissue, causing a worsening, often painful and foul-smelling wound, according to the CDC.

Screwworm has hit the United States before

There was a screwworm outbreak in the southwestern region of the United States in 1965 that prompted Mexican and U.S. livestock producers to sign a declaration to establish a joint program for the eradication of the screwworm from the states on either side of the Mexico-U.S. border, according to the National Agricultural Library.

By 1966, the United States had eradicated screwworms, but livestock remained vulnerable to reinfestation from screwworms migrating from Mexico.

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Eradication was possible through the sterile insect technique, which uses gamma radiation to irradiate screwworm pupae and create sterile male flies.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service maintains a screwworm pupae sterilization facility in North America and is currently building a new center in southern Texas.

When produced and released in large numbers, sterile male flies mate with wild female flies, which then lay unfertilized eggs, according to the USDA.

“Since female screwworm flies normally mate only once, the population progressively reduces and is, ultimately, eradicated,” according to USDA officials.

Last year, the Trump administration cut thousands of grants and programs from the U.S. Agency for International Development, which includes U.S.-funded animal disease monitoring projects operated by the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization, Argi-Pulse Communications reported. Among the slashed programs were some dedicated to monitoring and containing New World screwworm in Central America.

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Today, screwworm infestations aren’t a regular occurrence in the U.S., but cases have occurred in travelers returning from areas where the flies are present, according to the CDC.

Can infected animals be treated?

Infected wounds are cleaned and debrided to remove any screwworm larvae, after which the animal is treated with an approved insecticide, DeNotta said.

Last month, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration issued an emergency use authorization for several insecticides known to be effective against screwworm.

There are approved systemic and topical options for a variety of species, including cattle, horses, small ruminants, cats and dogs, DeNotta said.

“Multiple days of treatment are often required, and antibiotics and analgesics may also be administered to treat secondary infection and control pain,” she said.

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If left untreated, the tissue destruction caused by flesh-eating larvae can be extensive and severe, often resulting in debilitation and eventual death of the host, DeNotta said.

“Animals that survive may suffer weight loss, poor growth and reduced productivity as a result of pain and discomfort,” she said.

Screwworm can infect humans

Human infection is rare, DeNotta said, but it can happen.

Humans are at risk of being infected by screwworms if they travel to an area where the flies are present, such as South America and the Caribbean, according to the CDC.

CDC officials said your risk of screwworm infection increases when you:

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  • Spend a lot of time outdoors during the day, especially if sleeping or unable to keep the flies at bay.
  • Have any open wounds. A small break in the skin, including from a scratch, insect bite or recent surgery, may attract screwworm flies.
  • Have a medical condition that causes bleeding or open sores, such as from skin or sinus cancer, or from treatments that can create breaks in the skin.
  • Live, work or spend an extended amount of time with or near, livestock or other warm-blooded animals in areas where screwworm flies are present.

The symptoms humans experience when infected by screwworm

The following are symptoms of screwworm according to the CDC:

  • Feeling maggots move or seeing maggots within a skin wound, sore or body opening.
  • Painful skin wounds or sores that worsen within a few days.
  • Foul-smelling odor from the site of the infestation.
  • Bleeding from open sores.

Bacteria can also infect wounds where screwworm maggots are present and may cause an infection that can lead to symptoms like fever or chills.

To treat a screwworm infection, DeNotta said, people undergo the same combination of wound debridement and insecticides used in animals.

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