Science
Immaculate Wilderness, Uncertain Future: Paddling the Boundary Waters
Saganaga Lake was so calm that I could see boulders 10 feet below the surface. The water reflected a mirror image of the clouds above as my partner, Brian, and I paddled between earth and sky. On the horizon, a forest of white pine, spruce and cedar delineated the northern shoreline, in Canada. The border between the two nations floated in the middle of this vast lake, one of more than 1,100 within Minnesota’s roadless, 1.1-million-acre Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness.
It was warm for mid-September — high 70s. We found a campsite on a small island dwarfed by a towering white pine. We quickly hauled up the canoe and jumped into the lake. I lost my breath, embracing the numbing water and letting it strip away 48 hours of grime.
What a difference a day makes. The previous afternoon we were stormbound, sitting under a tarp hastily strung between pines, watching lightning flash around us as rivulets of rainwater slowly flooded our campsite. Every so often a red-eyed loon would break the lake’s surface carrying a minnow in her beak to feed her chick.
But a nagging concern kept pulling me from the present: The beauty of this thriving ecosystem is increasingly shrouded by the threat of a proposed copper and nickel mine within the Rainy River watershed, which encompasses most of the Boundary Waters. Environmental groups warn that sulfuric acid, a byproduct of the mining operation, could contaminate the water and endanger everything living in it.
I grew up in northern Minnesota and have been paddling these lakes since I was a young child, first with my parents and four siblings, and later guiding teenagers out of a camp based on Sea Gull Lake. Now I paddle whenever I can string together a few free days and secure a permit.
A Pristine Ecosystem
Every year more than 150,000 people use the Boundary Waters, making it the most heavily visited wilderness area in the United States. At the height of summer, campsites on popular lakes can be in high demand. But “heavily visited” is a relative term; Glacier National Park, also roughly one million acres, welcomed 3.1 million visitors in 2025.
Designated a federal wilderness in 1964, the Boundary Waters stretches 150 miles along the international border and sits within the three-million-acre Superior National Forest.
The wilderness also sits within the five-million-acre 1854 Treaty Area, lands that the Ojibwe ceded to the federal government four years before Minnesota became a state. In return the Ojibwe reserved the right to hunt, fish and gather there in perpetuity.
This still pristine ecosystem of forests, lakes and rivers supports big animals like moose, black bear and lynx — and an abundance of mosquitoes. It’s not uncommon to watch a bald eagle dive out of the sky to spear a walleye, or to be lulled to sleep by the haunting trill of a loon.
There are almost 100 entry points to the wilderness and 2,000 designated, first-come-first-served campsites. Some lakes are no bigger than a pond. Others take hours to paddle across.
Paddlers can find ancient petroglyphs, carved by the Indigenous inhabitants who used this natural superhighway to move with the seasons and trade with neighboring tribes. In the 1600s their trade partners expanded to include French voyageurs in search of beaver pelts. In the 19th century, Europeans began to settle in the region, including my great-grandfather, who left Sweden in 1883, homesteading a patch of forest 20 miles west of Ely, the western gateway to what is now the wilderness.
Wildfires, hurricane-force winds and other natural disasters have altered the landscape, but what has remained nearly constant is the purity of the water. The Minnesota Pollution Control Agency recently declared water within the Rainy River drainage as “immaculate.”
Immaculate water is not a given. An eyelid-shaped deposit, known as the Duluth Complex, that arcs through the Superior National Forest and portions of the Boundary Waters, reportedly holds one of the largest undeveloped masses of copper-nickel on earth.
Iron ore and its derivative, taconite, have been mined to near depletion in northern Minnesota. In 1978, the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness Act banned mining within the wilderness and established a 222,000-acre protected zone along entry corridors. More than a decade before the ban, the Bureau of Land Management issued two 20-year federal mineral leases on 4,800 acres of Forest Service land, one directly adjacent to the Boundary Waters and the other within five miles. Twin Metals Minnesota, a subsidiary of the Chilean mining giant Antofagasta, eventually acquired the leases, though efforts to mine were paused after the B.L.M. denied a third lease-renewal request in 2016, citing environmental risks.
Conservation groups, tribal entities, politicians and locals have been working together to permanently ban copper mining here for more than a decade, since the process for extracting the metal creates dangerous byproducts, namely sulfuric acid.
“The only way to permanently protect this great wilderness is through legislation that bans copper mining in its headwaters,” said Becky Rom, a retired lawyer who grew up in Ely and is the national chair of the nonprofit coalition Save the Boundary Waters, in an interview last fall.
Twin Metals takes a different stance. Kathy Graul, the company’s director of communications, wrote in an email that Twin Metals would have to undergo years of regulatory review before it could begin mining, and “must prove through this process that we can meet the stringent environmental standards” set by the state of Minnesota.
In mid-April, after a decade of back-and-forth political battles, Congress narrowly overturned a mining ban instituted by the Biden administration. In an email, Representative Pete Stauber, Republican of Minnesota, said he was thrilled that the Senate passed his resolution, citing the development of critical minerals, helium and other natural resources. “The passage of this legislation is not an automatic green light for any proposed project,” he wrote. “Now, established federal and state permitting processes will determine the outcome.”
The resolution prevents a future Department of Interior from issuing similar protections without new congressional authorization. In response to the vote, Ingrid Lyons, the executive director of Save the Boundary Waters, said that “Congress has set a dangerous precedent for America’s public lands across the country.”
Ultimately, it is a state agency, Minnesota’s Department of Natural Resources, that will grant or deny the permit to mine, a process that may take years. In the meantime, a bill is pending in the Minnesota Legislature that prohibits copper mining in the headwaters of the Boundary Waters. Minnesotans could also pass an amendment to their Constitution to enshrine such a prohibition.
Strings of Islands and Intimidating Expanses
The beauty of the Boundary Waters is that excursions can be epic, weekslong adventures or short overnight trips to one lake. Brian and I had only a long weekend. Our plan was to paddle and portage roughly 20 miles through a chain of lakes, stopping to swim when the spirit moved us.
After a late start on the first day, under a bluebird sky with a light headwind, we met up at noon on Sea Gull Lake with Jim Wiinanen, 78, my old boss and the former director of a youth camp where I worked. Jim first set foot in the Boundary Waters in 1963 and hasn’t strayed far since, living 60 miles away in Grand Marais. Among other wilderness skills, Jim taught me how to use a compass, which feels quaint in the age of GPS, but is still invaluable when route-finding on a lake immersed in fog.
When I led canoe trips out of Sea Gull Lake in the early 1990s, we’d leave the comfort and safety of camp behind, paddling the narrow maze between the mainland and a string of islands that was lined by towering white pines and fragrant cedar. I felt exuberant and free until the 3,958-acre lake opened into an immense and intimidating expanse, at which point it would sink in that I was responsible for the health and well-being of eight other people, sometimes for up to two weeks.
Parts of Sea Gull’s shoreline are still densely forested. But a series of weather events — including powerful windstorms in 1999 and major fires in 2005, 2006 and 2007 — have drastically altered thousands of acres of forest, leaving behind a sparse, alien landscape of broken, charred trees.
Paddling Sea Gull Lake after the fires was gut-wrenching. Slowly, life has bounced back. I marveled at the clusters of young birch standing 15 feet high as we ate lunch at an island campsite near the southwestern corner of the lake.
“We are blessed with a natural system that from the beginning has absorbed catastrophic changes,” Jim said, diving into a turkey sandwich. “The ecosystem may not look the same, but it’s still there.”
We ate in silence, enjoying the warm rays of a weakening September sun. Inevitably we circled back — as most conversations in these parts do — to the omnipresent cloud of sulfide-ore copper mining.
“The scary part is the water,” Jim said. “ You probably won’t see the mercury accumulation, and you probably won’t see sulfuric acid accumulation. But how can anything live here if the lakes are poisoned?”
If you go:
How to reserve a permit: Plan your trip early. Permits are required between May 1 and Sept. 30, and quotas limit the number of visitors. Reservations on Recreation.gov open in the morning on the last Wednesday of January. The most popular put-ins go within minutes, so have a backup plan. Group size is limited to nine people and four canoes.
How to get there: The western gateway to the Boundary Waters is Ely; the eastern gateway is Grand Marais, which marks the beginning of the Gunflint Trail, a scenic byway; and there are multiple points of entry in between. Seasoned outfitters in both towns and along the Gunflint Trail offer every level of service, from canoe rentals to fully guided trips.
What to bring: Come prepared for a wide range of temperatures from May through September, from below freezing to 90 degrees. Bring layers, rain gear, tick and mosquito repellent, sturdy shoes and an extra dry pair for the campsite. Fisher or McKenzie maps, both of which are waterproof and show designated campsites and portages, are essential, as is a compass or a dedicated GPS device, which is usually more durable than a smartphone.
Science
19 Legionella bacteria infections linked to Kaiser Bay Area hospital
Kaiser Permanente is still trying to determine the source of bacteria responsible for 19 recent cases of Legionella infection identified at a hospital in the San Francisco Bay Area.
The 19 infections were linked to Kaiser’s medical center in Santa Clara. Most of those who fell sick are recovering at home, Kaiser said in a recent statement.
The bacteria were identified through “robust routine internal monitoring processes,” according to Kaiser.
“Our medical center is a safe place to visit and receive care,” the health system said.
Kaiser did not specify how ill those infected are, nor did they say specifically how the bacteria were detected.
Infection can occur when Legionella — which appears naturally in environments such as lakes and streams — gets into building water systems and people breathe in mist containing the bacteria, according to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. The bacteria grow best in warm temperatures, between 77 and 113 degrees.
The disease does not spread from person to person.
The most severe form of Legionella bacteria infection leads to Legionnaires’ disease, a serious and potentially deadly type of pneumonia, the CDC says. Legionnaires is treatable with antibiotics, but early treatment improves the odds of recovery.
A milder form of Legionella infection called Pontiac fever can also cause aches and headaches.
Legionella can grow and spread in devices such as hot tubs, cooling towers, hot water tanks, complex plumbing systems, showerheads, sink faucets and decorative fountains, according to the California Department of Public Health. Most people who are exposed to Legionella don’t get sick, but the bacteria can cause serious infections in some cases.
“While we work to determine the source, out of an abundance of caution, last week we concluded additional water treatment measures and preventive measures to ensure the safety of all patients, employees, and visitors,” Kaiser said in its statement. “As a result of mitigation efforts, our hospital and medical office building continue to operate normally. “
About 1 in 10 people who get Legionnaires’ disease die due to complications from their illness, the CDC said. For those who contract it during a stay at a healthcare facility, about 1 of every 4 are expected to die.
Legionnaires’ disease was discovered in 1976 after a major outbreak affecting attendees of a convention of the American Legion in Philadelphia, according to the CDC. The outbreak led to 221 illnesses across Pennsylvania, and 34 deaths.
Investigators eventually suspected that the bacteria were airborne and had infected people after contaminating the air conditioning system at the convention hotel.
“Since 1976, air conditioning systems changed and agencies around the world have more stringent cleaning and hygiene standards for cooling towers and large-scale air-conditioning systems,” the CDC says.
Other ways facility managers can reduce the risk of Legionella include disinfecting cooling towers and water systems, establishing a water management program and routinely performing water system maintenance.
Legionnaires’ disease has been on the rise since the early 2000s, according to the CDC.
In 2024, seven cases of Legionnaires’ were reported in the northwestern corner of the city of Westminster, according to the Orange County Health Care Agency. No source was ever found for that outbreak, “as is so often the case,” the agency said last week.
When two people died after visiting a day spa in Richmond in 2023, Contra Costa County health officials found high levels of Legionella bacteria in the spa, and located two other guests who had lab-confirmed Legionnaires’ disease. Contra Costa County health officials said the hot tub at the day spa didn’t have a permit, and had never been inspected by health officials.
And in 2022, health investigators uncovered the likely source of 17 Legionella infections in Napa County — all of whom either lived, worked or had visited downtown Napa. Sixteen people had to be hospitalized, with 10 needing intensive care, and one person died, according to the CDC’s Morbidity and Mortality Weekly Report.
Investigators found high levels of Legionella bacteria in a cooling tower at what was then the Embassy Suites Napa Valley on California Boulevard, Napa County health officials said. None of the cases were guests of the hotel.
According to the MMWR, investigators said the cooling tower had malfunctioned, leading to either very little or no injection of chemicals that would prevent bacterial growth.
The report noted that cooling towers can spread Legionella bacteria over a wide area, with people living within 0.6 miles from a tower at highest risk of infection.
“Cooling towers without a comprehensive water management program or lacking routine maintenance are associated with an increased risk for Legionella colonization,” the report said.
Cooling towers were also the culprit in a large Legionnaires’ disease outbreak in New York City last year, which was linked to 114 cases, 90 hospitalizations and seven deaths. Legionella bacteria that genetically matched specimens in patients was found in cooling towers at Harlem Hospital and a nearby construction site, according to the city.
The CDC in 2024 also reported on outbreaks of Legionnaires’ disease aboard two cruise ships. Investigators found a previously unidentified source of the bacteria: “hot tubs located on private balconies, which have become more common as new ships enter service” and “are subject to less stringent operating requirements” than public hot tubs.
“Hot tubs can be a source of Legionella growth and transmission when they are inadequately maintained and operated,” the CDC said.
Times librarian Cary Schneider contributed to this report.
Science
As ocean temperatures spike, more dead sea birds are washing up on California shores
For the last several months, wildlife experts have been alarmed by a large influx of dead and emaciated seabirds washing up on California beaches.
While experts had been recording high mortality rates for brown pelicans for several years now — the result of harmful algal blooms, or “red tides” — this die off appears different.
Now it’s not just pelicans that are being impacted, it includes other water birds, such as Brandt cormorants, loons, common murres, and grebes.
The suspected culprit in this case is subtler and more insidious than the algal neurotoxin known as domoic acid. Experts say these recent deaths are likely tied to an extreme marine heat wave that is causing deadly changes in food availability.
Up and down the California coast this spring, ocean temperatures have skyrocketed. In some places, temperatures have climbed 4 to 8 degrees higher than average, breaking all kinds of historical records. For instance, in La Jolla, nearly 30% of the readings taken off the Scripps Pier this year have exceeded previous temperature records.
“If the ocean is warmer than normal, it can impact the food web in multiple ways,” said Tamara Russell, a marine ornithologist at UC San Diego’s Scripps Institution of Oceanography.
She said fish and other organisms that require cooler waters to survive may swim north or dive deeper in the water column — making them less available for the birds that feed on them. In addition, warmer conditions can stifle the amount of nutrients rising to the water’s surface, resulting in “cascading impacts on the entire food web.”
She said the number of birds coming into rescue centers has increased in tandem with warmer than average ocean temperatures. The marine heat wave, according to researchers, spans from roughly San Francisco to the Mexican border.
Not all experts agree the spike in bird deaths is due solely to increased water temperature.
Krysta Rogers, the lead for bird investigations at the California Fish and Wildlife Department, said she began receiving reports of dead and weakened birds beginning as far back as last summer.
Most of the affected birds were youngsters that had been born that year, following a robust breeding season, she said. The department identified starvation as the primary cause of death. Some birds also suffered from gastrointestinal parasites or fungal respiratory infection, issues wrought by a weakened immune system.
Living at sea isn’t easy. “They have to keep warm, they have to swim after their prey,” Rogers said. “It’s very energetically demanding. And so if they miss a meal or two, that can kind of tip them over the edge. Then it just kind of spirals from there.”
From January through April, the department received 295 reports of dead birds submitted through its website: 193 for Brandt’s cormorants, 68 for common murres and the remaining 34 for a combination of brown pelicans, grebes and loons.
Of 50 cormorants submitted to the lab for necropsies from May of 2025 to April 2026, 46 were juvenile, one was an adult and the rest were in a condition too poor to determine. Of the 35 murres submitted between July 2025 and April 2026, 24 were juveniles, 9 were adults and two were undetermined.
According to Rogers, it’s not uncommon for a population boom to lead to an uptick in deaths — translating to more juveniles that simply don’t survive as they dodge predators, contend with storms and compete with other hungry birds for food. Winter is a particularly challenging time for the inexperienced hunters.
The marine heatwave that has gripped the waters off California may play a role in the bird’s survival, but it’s likely not the only factor, she said.
Rebecca Duerr, a veterinarian at the rescue clinic, said she and other wildlife officials started seeing a “tremendous” influx of dead birds washing up on California beaches in March and April.
She said reports from the Channel Islands suggested breeding colonies of pelicans and cormorants were collapsing. “Like thousands of dead babies,” she said.
She said while a third of the pelicans she’s seen could rightly be considered starving, many of the others have come in with injuries — which, she said, also suggest a food availability problem.
“It’s my subjective impression, but when the pickings get slim out on the ocean, the pelicans take more risks… and more likely to be hanging around public fishing piers or begging at Redondo Beach,” Duerr said “That’s like last resort feeding opportunity.”
She’s seen scores of birds maimed and injured by fishing gear, along with injuries she classifies as “malicious,” such as stab wounds.
Duerr and Jaret Davey, a volunteer coordinator at Wetlands & Wildlife Care Center in Huntington Beach, said several birds have also come in with raging fungal infections in their lungs — the type of infection an animal only gets when its immune system has been suppressed by disease or malnutrition.
“When sea birds become emaciated, they pretty much don’t have any energy to put towards immune function, and their air spaces are a nice, warm, moist location. They become super susceptible to aspergillosis,” she said, naming the fungus the care centers are finding.
So far, sea mammals don’t seem to be impacted.
“We’re seeing conditions in our monitored populations that are typical for this time of year,” said Krista Maloney, with the Sausalito-based Marine Mammals Center.
Science
L.A. County health officials confirm fifth measles case this year
The Los Angeles County Department of Public Health is investigating a confirmed measles case in a resident who recently traveled internationally, the agency said in a release Saturday.
This is the fifth measles case identified by the county this year as outbreaks increase across the U.S. and globally.
The infected resident arrived at the Los Angeles International Airport on Thursday on Alaska Airlines Flight 1354. Other travelers at Tom Bradley International Terminal B that day between 6 a.m. and 8 a.m. may have been exposed to the virus, officials said.
Public health officials are advising residents to check their immunization status and watch for symptoms if exposed. The measles-mumps-rubella vaccine is the most effective protection from measles, according to the public health department.
“As measles cases increase, it is important that residents take steps to make sure they are fully protected,” L.A. County Health Officer Muntu Davis said in a statement. “The MMR vaccine is the safest and most reliable way to prevent measles and protect yourself, your family, and your community.”
In coordination with the federal Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, L.A. County Public Health will notify travelers seated near the infected person on the flight.
Affected travelers are at risk of developing measles from seven to 21 days after exposure to the virus. Symptoms include rash, fever, cough and red, watery eyes.
Measles can lead to complications including pneumonia, brain swelling and even death. Those with symptoms should notify their healthcare facility before visiting, officials said.
So far this year, 1,814 measles cases have been confirmed nationwide, including 48 in California.
In January, health officials recorded the most amount of cases since the U.S. achieved elimination of the virus in 2000.
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