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“Slow down! You’re moving too fast,” said our backseat driver as we cruised the country roads in southern Vermont. We were driving at the speed limit, but he was right. The view of sloping hills, forests, and rolling farmlands, sliced with rippling streams and tinged with autumn hues, was going by too fast. We slowed down, weaving along backroads to Route 100, arguably the most scenic road in the Green Mountain State. There were cows grazing on hillsides, fieldstone walls bordering classic farmhouses and well-kept barns, farmstands filled with late summer and fall produce, and views of distant mountain peaks.
Despite our lackadaisical, slow-mo pace, we had a destination in mind: the oh-so-sweet village of Weston, a quintessentially Vermont hamlet, in the shadows of the Green Mountains. The former mill town, set along the West River, is surrounded by the Green Mountain National Forest, with stunning fall foliage views. It’s home to the oldest theater company in Vermont, and the classic — and sprawling — Vermont Country Store. Better yet: it has a new boutique hotel, and a recently opened French bistro.
We’d be happy to check into The Weston for a weekend and never leave the property. Formerly the Inn at Weston, the re-imagined property has been completely renovated. It has a nice feel — elegant and refined, without being fussy, staying true to the historic, rural setting. Housed in two Colonial-style buildings on Main Street — the historic Main House and adjacent two-story Carriage House — are nine rooms and suites, a bar, wine room, fitness room, spa, and the Left Bank restaurant. It’s filled with antiques and fine art, surrounded by gardens with a backyard bocce ball court, firepits, and dining patio.
Rooms and suites are uniquely decorated with a mix of art and furnishings, modern baths, and luxe linens and toiletries; all but one have gas fireplaces.
After checking into the hotel, we joined The Left Bank’s executive chef Bretton Combs on a tour of The Farm at the Weston. The Farm includes a quarter-acre of cultivated land and a heated greenhouse. We walked between rows of heirloom tomatoes, onions and leeks, carrots and parsnips, cukes and beans, lettuces and potatoes, turnips and squashes, and more.
That evening at The Left Bank, we dined on farm-to-table dishes, including a purple dragon carrot and cucumber soup, brussels sprout chips, hand-cut frites, and beet salad, all showcasing produce from the farm. There was also a caviar selection, New England oysters, cheese platters, and entrees like Parisian steak frites, cod piccata, and bouillabaisse.
You have to love a town with two historic general stores. The family-owned Vermont Country Store, founded in 1946, is a sprawling 12,000-square-foot space, chockful of stuff from around the world, including a huge selection of Vermont-made goods. There are shelves filled with old-fashioned penny candy, a toy section with classics like Tiddlywinks and potholder-making kits, specialty foods, sheets and blankets, and men’s and women’s clothing. You could easily spend a couple of hours browsing the merchandise, then treat yourself to a creemee from Mildred’s Dairy Bar, located next to the store.
Across the street is the Weston Village Store, with a variety of Vermont T-shirts and souvenirs, homemade fudge, and a cooler filled with old-fashioned, handcrafted sodas. There’s also a small cheese tasting counter where you can sample artisan cheeses made in Vermont and elsewhere.
Wander down to the Village Green and to the Mill Museum and the Farrar-Mansur House. The Mill Museum was built in 1785 as a sawmill and used later a gristmill. On display is a variety of equipment used in blacksmithing, farming, woodworking, and more. The Farrar-Mansur House was built in 1795 and is a fine example of an early American Colonial home. Several rooms are furnished with period antiques, early-19th-century brass, copper and pewter items, quilts and samplers, china, glassware, and art.
The world-class Weston Theater Company operates out of two venues. The contemporary Walker Farm venue, which opened in 2017, is a flexible space used for live music, cabaret, and special events. The Playhouse is the original theater housed in a 306-seat Greek Revival building and used for large, top-quality productions. “The Woman in Black,” an adaptation of Susan Hill’s classic ghost story, is playing through Oct. 20.
Ready for some fresh air and a little exercise? Head down Route 100 about five miles to Lowell Lake State Park. The Lowell Lake Trail is a nice loop hike, about 3.5 miles, with views of the lake, and a Revolutionary War-era cemetery.
We’d suggest a meandering detour from Weston to the village of Chester, another sweet little town where three branches of the Williams River meet. The town has two historic districts. The Stone Village Historic District has 10 Greek Revival buildings, made of stone from local quarries. The Chester Village Historic District has a mix of Victorian and Federal-style buildings, now housing a handful of shops and galleries. There’s a self-guided brochure and walking map for each district, available at shops, restaurants, and inns in town, as well as the Town Hall and the Information Center on Main Street.
And of course, take your time getting home, following sinuous backroads through southern Vermont (look at maps 26 and 27 in the Vermont Atlas & Gazetteer), stopping at farm stands, cheese shops, and general stores along the way. You remembered to pack a cooler, right?
Diane Bair and Pamela Wright can be reached at bairwright@gmail.com
This article will be updated.
Gov. Phil Scott proposed a sweeping overhaul of what he called Vermont’s “broken and failing” education funding and governing systems during his inaugural address Thursday.
In his first major speech since voters overwhelmingly reelected him and booted Democrats up and down the ballot from office, Scott focused on the topic that most infuriated Vermonters in November: affordability.
“When it comes to politics, I know it can be hard to admit when you’ve gone down the wrong path and need to turn around,” Scott told House and Senate lawmakers during his fifth inaugural address at the Statehouse in Montpelier. “But we’re not here to worry about egos. We’re here to do what Vermonters need. And they just sent a very clear message: They think we’re off course.”
As is typical for an inaugural speech, Scott did not delve into specifics on Thursday — the details of his plan will be unveiled later this month during his budget address.
But in the broad strokes, Scott teased a plan that would overhaul Vermont’s byzantine school governance structure and see the state assume a direct role in deciding how much districts spend.
“The bottom line is our system is out of scale and very expensive,” Scott said. “And as obvious as these challenges are, we haven’t been able to fix it.”
At the heart of Scott’s vision is a transition to a so-called foundation formula, whereby the state would calculate how much districts should spend on their schools and provide them corresponding grants.
Currently, local voters decide how much their school districts should spend when they approve or reject budgets during Town Meeting Day in the spring. Whatever the amount, the state must pay. To calculate each town’s fair share into Vermont’s more than $2 billion education fund, residential property tax rates are adjusted based on how much each district is spending per pupil.
While potentially explosive in a state where local control is jealously guarded, a foundation formula is fairly typical across the country. And in Vermont, a bill to transition over to such a system even passed the House in 2018 with Democratic support. The architect of that 2018 legislation, then-GOP Rep. Scott Beck, was just elected to the Senate and named Republican minority leader for the chamber — where he is working closely with administration officials on their education plans.
“I think what we’re going to see [from the governor] here in a couple, three weeks is something that is far beyond just education finance,” Beck said in an interview Thursday. “I think it’s going to get into governance and delivery and outcomes.”
Beck said the transition to a foundation formula would force a series of questions, including whether districts would be allowed to approve any spending beyond the state’s base foundation grant.
“And in that case, where do they get that money from? And under what conditions can they access that money?” Beck said. “There’s a myriad of decisions that go into that whole thing. None of those decisions have been made. But I think in various circles, we have committed to going down the road of building a foundation formula in Vermont.”
Beck said he expects Scott’s education proposal will also include provisions that are designed to reduce staffing in the public education system.
When Scott first took office in 2016, the state spent about $1.6 billion annually on public schools. This year, that number will exceed $2.3 billion.
Vermont schools now have one staff person for every 3.63 students, the lowest ratio in the United States. In 2018, Scott pushed hard, and unsuccessfully, for legislation that would have instituted mandatory caps on staff-to-student ratios.
“With what we’re spending, we should not be in the middle of the pack on any educational scorecard,” Scott said. “And our kids should all be at grade level in reading and math. In some grades, less than half hit that mark. While educators, administrators, parents and kids are doing their very best to make things work, the statewide system is broken and failing them.”
Inaugural and state-of-the-state speeches tend to include a laundry list of policy ideas. But Scott’s 43-minute speech was focused almost entirely on education and housing — he renewed calls to trim development regulations and to bolster funding for rehabbing dilapidated homes.
Scott only briefly discussed last summer’s floods, and made glancing mentions of public safety, climate change, and health care. The governor, who voted for Vice President Kamala Harris in November, made no mention of President-elect Donald Trump or national politics.
Seeking to highlight some successes, the governor noted that overdose and traffic fatalities have declined recently, the state has welcomed more than 1,000 refugees in the past few years, and that the state park system saw near record visitation last year.
The governor has long argued that Chittenden County is prospering at a rate disproportionate to the rest of Vermont. He intensified that rhetoric in Thursday’s speech.
“As the rest of the state struggles to catch up, they carry the same burden of increasing taxes and fees and navigate the same complicated mandates and regulations,” the governor said. “And regardless of how well-intentioned these policies are, they’re expensive and require resources that places like Burlington, Shelburne and Williston may have, but small towns like Chelsea, Lunenburg, Peacham, Plainfield — and even Rutland, Newport or Brattleboro — do not. Too many bills are passed without considering the impact on these communities.”
Early in his speech, Scott paid tribute to several veteran legislators who died in the past year, including senators Bill Doyle and Dick Sears and representatives Don Turner, Bill Keogh, and Curt McCormack. Scott choked up and was visibly emotional when his recalling “my dear friend and mentor,” Sen. Dick Mazza, who died in May.
Former Governors Peter Shumlin, Jim Douglas and Madeleine Kunin attended the speech.
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Education
MORRISTOWN, Vt. (AP) — A Vermont school district’s inadequate response to serious and widespread harassment of Black and biracial students has led to a settlement agreement with the federal government, the U.S. Justice Department said Wednesday.
The department’s Civil Rights Division and the Vermont U.S. attorney’s office began investigating the Elmore-Morristown Unified Union School District in December 2023 and reviewed records and complaints from the previous three school years. Investigators concluded that students, primarily at the middle school level, faced frequent slurs and racist imagery, including the use of the N-word and displays of confederate flags and Nazi symbols.
“Racial harassment makes students feel unsafe, deprives them of a supportive educational environment and violates the Constitution’s most basic promise of equal protection,” Assistant Attorney General Kristen Clarke said in a statement. “We look forward to the district demonstrating to its students that racial bullying and harassment have no place in its schools.”
Superintendent Ryan Heraty said Wednesday those comments don’t reflect the district’s current reality given that there has been a dramatic decrease in such incidents.
“When students returned from the pandemic, we saw a significant increase in behavior at the middle level, which was deeply concerning,” he said in an email. “In response, we have taken many intentional actions to address this behavior, which the DOJ recognized in its review.”
In a letter to parents and other community members Tuesday, Heraty said the district stands firmly against any acts of racism and responds immediately to reported incidents. In the current academic year, there have been no reported incidents of race-based harassment at the district’s elementary school and a “very limited” number at the middle and high schools, he said.
The Justice Department said the district cooperated fully with the investigation and has already implemented some improvements, including adopting a central reporting system to track incidents. The district also agreed to revise anti-harassment policies and procedures, hold listening sessions with student groups and conduct formal training and education programs for students and staff.
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MONTPELIER — The Vermont House will have more Republicans leading its policy committees — and is bringing back a committee tasked with overseeing the state’s digital infrastructure — for the legislative biennium that started Wednesday.
Democratic House Speaker Jill Krowinski, who was reelected to her post Wednesday morning, announced committee assignments on the House floor that afternoon. The speaker has the sole authority to make committee appointments in the House. This year, she had more choices to make than usual, with a number of committee chairs and vice chairs who either did not run again or lost reelection campaigns — leading to significant turnover in leadership.
Only one Republican — Coventry Rep. Michael Marcotte — chaired a House panel in recent years, the House Commerce and Economic Development Committee. This session, Marcotte will be joined by a second caucus member — Swanton Rep. Matt Walker, who will helm the House Transportation Committee.
Meanwhile, the number of Republicans serving as committee vice chairs has more than doubled — from four last year to nine members this year. Overall, nearly all — 11 of the 14 — House committees will have some GOP leadership this year.
Notably, Rep. Jim Harrison, a Chittenden Republican, will be the new vice chair of the powerful House Appropriations Committee. The seat was held last year by Middlebury Democratic Rep. Robin Scheu — who will now chair the budget-writing panel.
Speaking to reporters Wednesday afternoon, Krowinski said the enhanced GOP committee leadership was a result of the increased power the caucus won in last fall’s election, when Republicans gained 18 seats.
“Given the increase in the Republican caucus, it was automatic that they would be picking up a second chairship and increasing the number of vice chairs,” she said.
While the House announced committee assignments Wednesday, the Senate must wait until the lieutenant governor is sworn in on Thursday to do the same. The lieutenant governor is one member of a three-person panel, called the Committee on Committees, that doles out many of the leadership positions in that chamber.
This year’s House Energy and Digital Infrastructure Committee is, in a way, a move back to the future. The House had an “Energy and Technology” panel as recently as 2022, but for the last biennium, jurisdiction over those topics was split between the House Environment and Energy Committee (which had the former) and the Government Operations and Military Affairs Committee (which had the latter.)
The former will now be just the “House Environment Committee.” Meanwhile, the new “Energy and Digital Infrastructure” panel will take up legislation related to “energy, utilities, telecommunications, broadband, information technology, cybersecurity, and other similar policies,” according to a resolution the House approved Wednesday.
Krowinski said of the focus on digital infrastructure: “We make huge investments in it in the state, and I think there’s a greater need for some spotlight on that to make sure that the projects are running on time and they’re running on budget.”
She added that energy policy was too heavy of a workload, on top of environmental issues, for the members of that committee in recent years.
Notably, the new committee’s ranking member — the No. 3 slot — will be Rep. Laura Sibilia, I-Dover, who unsuccessfully challenged Krowinski for the speakership. Sibilia was previously vice chair of the now-disbanded environment and energy committee.
Among the House members who will take over committee chairmanships this year are Scheu; Walker; Rep. Kathleen James, D-Manchester; Rep. Marc Mihaly, D-Calais; Rep. Matt Birong, D-Vergennes; and Rep. Alyssa Black, D-Essex Town.
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