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This magical Amtrak ride to New Mexico belongs on your winter bucket list (but book soon)

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This magical Amtrak ride to New Mexico belongs on your winter bucket list (but book soon)

It was early morning in mid-December when I awoke to the sounds of steady rumbling while lying in the top bunk in my 9-by-5-foot family room in Amtrak’s Southwest Chief train. I climbed down a ladder to find my husband and 5-year-old daughter still snoozing in the lower bunk. Grabbing a seat on the gray banquette by the window, I pulled aside a blue curtain and was astounded by the view of peachy-pink clouds as we rolled across the rugged desert. We were passing through Holbrook, Ariz., and the sunrise was beautiful enough to be in a watercolor painting. At that moment, I felt like I was in a Wes Anderson movie.

There’s a child-like wonderment that comes from taking a train through the expansive Southwest to New Mexico in the winter that you just won’t get from plane travel. We opted for a 16-hour overnight trip instead of a two-hour flight to Albuquerque because we longed for a different way of traveling, one we hoped would slow time in our busy lives. Although we were asleep for half the ride, we spent the remaining hours taking in the beautiful scenery, which looks especially magnificent through the floor-to-ceiling windows of the Sightseer Lounge, and enjoying a three-course steak dinner before arriving in Albuquerque around 11 a.m.

If you’ve never planned a nearly 800-mile train trip before, you’ll find some considerations different from traveling by plane or car. Depending on which accommodations you book, Amtrak’s Southwest Chief, which goes all the way to Chicago, can be more expensive than flying. But whether you’re traveling with kids, by yourself or with a friend or partner, there are lots of ways to make it work within your budget.

Read on for tips on the Amtrak experience, along with what to do and eat, and where to stay in New Mexico. If you’re lucky, you might even get to enjoy a dreamy snowfall in the Land of Enchantment.

Booking your train tickets

The early bird gets the best accommodations. Reserve your tickets — Union Station to Albuquerque — as soon as possible since the most desirable rooms (especially family rooms, which can fit up to two adults and two children) are the first to get snatched up. While coach seats are economical, getting to actually lie down for shut-eye in the private rooms can make a world of difference. The roomette and bedroom options can each fit up to two adults (although the former can be a tight squeeze), and the bedroom suite combines two adjoining rooms. Some come with personal bathrooms and showers, while others are shared, so book accordingly. A perk of having a room is that it’s considered first class, so a dedicated attendant will be available to help with turndown service and luggage, and dining car meals are complimentary.

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Arriving at Union Station

Union Station in Los Angeles.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

If you’re looking to avoid a hectic LAX experience during the holidays, think of Union Station as its laid-back sibling. Overnight parking is almost always available in the Union Station East garage for $8 per day. (If you plan on parking there for three or more nights, download and fill out a parking request form from the Union Station website and drop it off in the parking office located at Union Station East.)

Plan to arrive at least an hour before your train’s departure if you have to check luggage, are traveling with family or if you’ve made a specific request for assistance at the station. Otherwise, 30 minutes should suffice. If you have a first class ticket, head over to the Amtrak Station Lounge to enjoy complimentary drinks and snacks while you await your departure.

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What to bring

If you are checking luggage, make sure to bring a small overnight backpack that will fit in your room or in the overhead compartment near your coach seat. (Smaller rooms may not fit carry-on luggage and you may need to store it outside of your room, so you’ll want the overnight bag for easy access.) If you need to charge multiple devices, bring a small multi-plug splitter as there is usually just one electrical outlet. Earplugs can dampen the chugging train sounds at night. And carry cash to tip the first-class attendants and waiters.

Transportation in Albuquerque and getting to Santa Fe

The Amtrak train will arrive at the Downtown Albuquerque Rail Runner station. From there, you can book a Turo rental in which a vehicle gets dropped off at your location, or visit Enterprise about a mile away (and call the rental office in advance to schedule a free pick-up service). Or take Uber or a free city bus to the rental car center at Albuquerque International Sunport airport, where more options are available.

To get to Santa Fe, you can drive there in an hour or extend your train travel with a ticketed 1.5-hour ride on the New Mexico Rail Runner Express to the Santa Fe Depot Rail Runner station, which is half a mile from downtown Santa Fe.

What to do in Albuquerque

Old Town Poco a Poco Plaza in Albuquerque.

Old Town Poco a Poco Plaza in Albuquerque.

(Jean Trinh)

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Stay: The historic Hotel Andaluz is a five-minute walk from the Albuquerque station, making it a perfect home base for adventuring. There are plenty of cozy spaces to hide away at this Moorish-style hotel, with stunning casbah-inspired alcoves in the lobby, a library with a fireplace, and Spanish tapas and more at the wine bar Más.

Eat: Grab a New Mexico-style breakfast at the Central Grill and Coffee House, where red or green chile (Can’t decide? Have it “Christmas style,” a combination of both) reigns supreme on such comfort dishes as burritos and chilaquiles. For more modern fare (and more diverse options), hit up the lively Sawmill Market or 505 Central Food Hall for everything from Detroit-style pizza to ramen and tacos.

Do: Old Town Albuquerque is a year-round attraction with Pueblo-Spanish-style architecture, galleries, shops and restaurants, but it’s extra special during the holidays, when its plaza twinkles at night with farolitos, or luminarias, as they’re also known (a Southwest Christmas tradition of brown paper bag lanterns). On Christmas Eve, you can get tickets for a 45-minute Luminaria Tour bus ride that traverses decorated streets. The ABQ BioPark Botanic Garden will host its annual River of Lights holiday attraction from Nov. 30-Dec. 30 with more than 700 illuminated displays on a 1.5-mile walking path. For winter sports, check out Sandia Peak Ski Area, 35 miles northeast of Albuquerque. And for the kids, keep them entertained at the sprawling Explora interactive museum.

What to do in Santa Fe

Snow blankets the Santa Fe Plaza.

Snow blankets the Santa Fe Plaza.

(Jean Trinh)

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Stay: During the holidays, the lobby of the downtown Inn of the Governors is transformed into a cozy den complete with Christmas decorations, a roaring fireplace and a daily welcome hour with sherry and biscochitos (the cinnamon and anise-laced New Mexico state cookie). Full service breakfast is included for guests at its Del Charro restaurant and bar, which is open late until midnight on most days.

Eat: Cafe Pasqual’s is packed all day for good reasons: It has solid New Mexico dishes made with local and organic ingredients, it’s in a vibrant space decorated with colorful papeles picados, and it even has a communal table for lone travelers to make new friends. (Make sure to visit its adjacent art gallery while you’re there.) The 71-year-old Shed, also a Santa Fe institution, is a hot spot for margaritas, posole and red chile enchiladas.

Do: The Canyon Road Farolito Walk on Christmas Eve is a longtime Santa Fe tradition, where thousands stroll the artsy thoroughfare to check out the lights. There’s also La Luz de las Noches at the Santa Fe Botanical Garden, evenings from Dec. 19 to 31 (closed on Dec. 24 and 25), featuring farolitos, musical performances, food and drinks. For snow activities, travel 35 miles northeast from downtown to Ski Santa Fe, which will be debuting a new high speed lift this winter. Also, not to be missed is the massive immersive art experience of Meow Wolf, and film screenings at “Game of Thrones” creator George R.R. Martin’s Jean Cocteau Cinema.

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Terry Tempest Williams on why women with big ideas get labeled ‘crazy’ : Wild Card with Rachel Martin

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Terry Tempest Williams on why women with big ideas get labeled ‘crazy’  : Wild Card with Rachel Martin

A note from Wild Card host Rachel Martin: I met Terry Tempest Williams about 25 years ago at a writer’s conference in Yosemite Valley. I was a young reporter who was there to do a story about how literature was addressing climate change and she made such a huge impression on me. I had never heard someone talk about the natural world the way Terry did and she had a spiritual depth I hadn’t encountered in my life at that point.

To this day, Terry’s writing always reorients me towards what is good, what is beautiful, and what is true. Her newest book is called “The Glorians.”

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Meow Wolf taps famed L.A. animation house for its new Los Angeles venue

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Meow Wolf taps famed L.A. animation house for its new Los Angeles venue

For its upcoming Los Angeles venue, experiential art firm Meow Wolf will focus on the art of storytelling, with a specific eye toward skewering our city’s moviemaking magic. To help bring that vision to life, Meow Wolf has entered into a creative partnership with Titmouse, one of L.A.’s most renowned independent animation houses.

The Hollywood-based studio behind popular series such as “Big Mouth” and “Star Trek: Lower Decks” will create animation that will be shown throughout the West L.A. venue, which is on target for a late 2026 opening at the Howard Hughes entertainment complex.

It’s a move that represents a shift for Santa Fe, N.M.-based Meow Wolf. Over the last decade-plus, the art collective has grown beyond its anything-goes, punk-meets-psychedelic roots into an organization with full-scale, maximalist installations in its hometown, Denver, Las Vegas, Houston and the Dallas suburbs. In the past, Meow Wolf kept most of its media in-house.

As part of its larger-than-life participatory art installations, Meow Wolf L.A. will feature a mix of live action and animation, the former filmed by Meow Wolf in its Santa Fe studio. Meow Wolf’s James Stephenson, a senior VP with the company and its creative director of emerging media, said the degree to which the L.A. exhibition will lean into various animation styles necessitated an outside partner. Titmouse’s work, in development by a number of directors with contrasting tones, will be shown on a variety of formats, ranging from cinema screens to full-room projections.

“I really believe in animation as an art form, and I know the Titmouse folks do too,” Stephenson says. “Animation is made by artists. It’s made by artists with their own hands. It’s something that is still very rooted in craft.”

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Meow Wolf’s L.A. space is set in a former cinema complex, and will champion its location, taking guests on a journey through a converted movie house and beyond, into a sci-fi-inspired fantasyland with sentient spaceships and a 30-foot-tall mushroom tower. Meow Wolf creatives have spoken of the fantastical movie theater as one that will feature animated, self-aware candy before attendees enter the main exhibition space, making Titmouse’s work some of the first art guests will encounter. Titmouse co-founder Chris Prynoski has said the studio has lined up at least six directors for the exhibit.

An in-progress art installation destined for Meow Wolf L.A. at the art collective’s Santa Fe, N.M., headquarters. The L.A. exhibition will feature animation from Titmouse.

(Gabriela Campos / For The Times)

Titmouse, says Stephenson, is the right partner because “they’re known less for a house style, and more for a house vibe.” Over the years, Titmouse has been behind such diverse shows as “Scavengers Reign,” owning a Jean Giraud influence rooted in French and Spanish surrealism, the lively “Jentry Chau vs. the Underworld,” with an unique color palette that took inspiration from anime and Chinese mythology, the exaggerated comic book feel of Adult Swim’s “Metalocalypse,” and the approachable yet expressive tone of “Star Trek: Lower Decks.”

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“Meow Wolf’s vibe is similar to Titmouse’s vibe,” Stephenson says. “It’s artist-first, artist-driven, independent and kinda edgy. They are always trying to find the edge of what’s possible. They try to see how far they can go, and it’s done for fun and in the spirit of taking risks.”

Prynoski says working with Meow Wolf will give Titmouse a sense of artistic freedom it doesn’t always have when delivering content for more traditional Hollywood partners. He says the multi-director approach is a callback to the early days of Warner Bros. Animation, when individual creators put their own stamp on Looney Tunes material.

“I use Bugs Bunny as an example,” Prynoski says. “You’ve got a Friz Freleng Bugs Bunny short. You’ve got a Chuck Jones Bugs Bunny short. You’ve got a Tex Avery Bugs Bunny short. They’re all different versions of Bugs Bunny, and people who are really paying attention can tell which director directed each one. Even though to the layman, these are all Bugs Bunny, but if you lined them up, they are drawing in different styles, sensibilities and techniques.”

Prynoski says that was a centerpiece of his pitch to Meow Wolf, noting that characters will reappear in multiple installations, each handled by a different artist. Meow Wolf L.A., in fact, will be the firm’s most character-driven exhibition, as guests will follow the storylines of three main protagonists throughout the space.

In announcing the partnership, Meow Wolf and Titmouse released an image from an animated work directed by Luca Vitale. It features a key character having a moment with a hummingbird and it’s done in an elegant, slightly anime-influenced style. It’s an image full of movement, reflecting a character in transition with inviting pastels and bold dashes.

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“I like that image because I think it captures some of the sense of wonder that we want people to feel,” Stephenson says. “The character is having an encounter with the elusive nature of creativity and reality in a way that makes them have a different perspective of what’s possible.”

Other contributing animation directors to Meow Wolf L.A. include Space Dawg, Felix Colgrave, Alexander Vanderplank and Phimémon Martin, and Jun Ioneda.

Titmouse’s partnership with Meow Wolf will extend beyond the L.A. exhibition. The two will be working on the development of Meow Wolf New York, which is slated to open some time after Los Angeles, and are collaborating on a planned animated series, which Prynoski is spearheading.

Meow Wolf exhibits are the result of sometimes hundreds of disparate artists coming together in a shared space. Distilling that into a signature, singular style for a series could be a challenge. Stephenson pinpoints some guiding principles.

“You really need to feel the hand of the artist,” he says. “You need to feel a DIY aesthetic. You need to feel the materiality. Those are very specific to what we are.”

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Appeals court denies Trump’s request to halt removal of his name from the Kennedy Center

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Appeals court denies Trump’s request to halt removal of his name from the Kennedy Center

The Kennedy Center on June 28, with its facade signage still covered by a tarp and scaffolding.

Alex Wroblewski/AFP via Getty Images


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Alex Wroblewski/AFP via Getty Images

On Wednesday, a federal appeals court denied President Trump’s request to stop the removal of his name from Washington, D.C.’s Kennedy Center. The signage on the building has been covered with tarp and scaffolding since June 13, but in a court filing last month, the center’s current executive director said that Trump’s name has been removed.

In their decision, three judges from the U.S. District Court of Appeals for the District of Columbia Circuit said that the president had failed to prove that the arts center would be “irreparably injured” without Trump’s name attached to it.

NPR requested comment from the Kennedy Center, but did not receive an immediate reply.

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This latest round of court decisions is part of the ongoing litigation filed by Rep. Joyce Beatty, D-Ohio, against President Trump and the board of the Kennedy Center. In a statement emailed Wednesday to NPR, Beatty said: “Today’s ruling again affirms that this administration’s efforts to rename the Kennedy Center were unlawful. His name no longer desecrates this sacred memorial, which belongs to the American people. Now it is time for the Trump administration to accept this, comply with the law, and take the tarps down.”

In previous court filings, Trump’s legal team had asserted that removing the president’s name from the arts complex, both on the physical building and in its digital materials, would inflict irreparable harm in both time and money already spent. In the denial, the three judges — Patricia Millett, Robert Wilkins and Gregory Katsas — wrote that since Trump’s name has already been removed, “a stay would not avert those harms.”

Furthermore, Trump had claimed that without his name attached, future fundraising would be threatened “and [will] contribute to the financial decline of the Center.” In response, the appeals judges wrote: “Appellants, however, have failed to support this assertion with any specific facts or evidence. They offer only the conclusory assertions of the Kennedy Center’s Executive Director that were made in a factually unsupported declaration.” The center’s current executive director, Matt Floca, specializes in physical plant management.

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