Lifestyle
This magical Amtrak ride to New Mexico belongs on your winter bucket list (but book soon)
It was early morning in mid-December when I awoke to the sounds of steady rumbling while lying in the top bunk in my 9-by-5-foot family room in Amtrak’s Southwest Chief train. I climbed down a ladder to find my husband and 5-year-old daughter still snoozing in the lower bunk. Grabbing a seat on the gray banquette by the window, I pulled aside a blue curtain and was astounded by the view of peachy-pink clouds as we rolled across the rugged desert. We were passing through Holbrook, Ariz., and the sunrise was beautiful enough to be in a watercolor painting. At that moment, I felt like I was in a Wes Anderson movie.
There’s a child-like wonderment that comes from taking a train through the expansive Southwest to New Mexico in the winter that you just won’t get from plane travel. We opted for a 16-hour overnight trip instead of a two-hour flight to Albuquerque because we longed for a different way of traveling, one we hoped would slow time in our busy lives. Although we were asleep for half the ride, we spent the remaining hours taking in the beautiful scenery, which looks especially magnificent through the floor-to-ceiling windows of the Sightseer Lounge, and enjoying a three-course steak dinner before arriving in Albuquerque around 11 a.m.
If you’ve never planned a nearly 800-mile train trip before, you’ll find some considerations different from traveling by plane or car. Depending on which accommodations you book, Amtrak’s Southwest Chief, which goes all the way to Chicago, can be more expensive than flying. But whether you’re traveling with kids, by yourself or with a friend or partner, there are lots of ways to make it work within your budget.
Read on for tips on the Amtrak experience, along with what to do and eat, and where to stay in New Mexico. If you’re lucky, you might even get to enjoy a dreamy snowfall in the Land of Enchantment.
Booking your train tickets
The early bird gets the best accommodations. Reserve your tickets — Union Station to Albuquerque — as soon as possible since the most desirable rooms (especially family rooms, which can fit up to two adults and two children) are the first to get snatched up. While coach seats are economical, getting to actually lie down for shut-eye in the private rooms can make a world of difference. The roomette and bedroom options can each fit up to two adults (although the former can be a tight squeeze), and the bedroom suite combines two adjoining rooms. Some come with personal bathrooms and showers, while others are shared, so book accordingly. A perk of having a room is that it’s considered first class, so a dedicated attendant will be available to help with turndown service and luggage, and dining car meals are complimentary.
Arriving at Union Station
Union Station in Los Angeles.
(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)
If you’re looking to avoid a hectic LAX experience during the holidays, think of Union Station as its laid-back sibling. Overnight parking is almost always available in the Union Station East garage for $8 per day. (If you plan on parking there for three or more nights, download and fill out a parking request form from the Union Station website and drop it off in the parking office located at Union Station East.)
Plan to arrive at least an hour before your train’s departure if you have to check luggage, are traveling with family or if you’ve made a specific request for assistance at the station. Otherwise, 30 minutes should suffice. If you have a first class ticket, head over to the Amtrak Station Lounge to enjoy complimentary drinks and snacks while you await your departure.
What to bring
If you are checking luggage, make sure to bring a small overnight backpack that will fit in your room or in the overhead compartment near your coach seat. (Smaller rooms may not fit carry-on luggage and you may need to store it outside of your room, so you’ll want the overnight bag for easy access.) If you need to charge multiple devices, bring a small multi-plug splitter as there is usually just one electrical outlet. Earplugs can dampen the chugging train sounds at night. And carry cash to tip the first-class attendants and waiters.
Transportation in Albuquerque and getting to Santa Fe
The Amtrak train will arrive at the Downtown Albuquerque Rail Runner station. From there, you can book a Turo rental in which a vehicle gets dropped off at your location, or visit Enterprise about a mile away (and call the rental office in advance to schedule a free pick-up service). Or take Uber or a free city bus to the rental car center at Albuquerque International Sunport airport, where more options are available.
To get to Santa Fe, you can drive there in an hour or extend your train travel with a ticketed 1.5-hour ride on the New Mexico Rail Runner Express to the Santa Fe Depot Rail Runner station, which is half a mile from downtown Santa Fe.
What to do in Albuquerque
Old Town Poco a Poco Plaza in Albuquerque.
(Jean Trinh)
Stay: The historic Hotel Andaluz is a five-minute walk from the Albuquerque station, making it a perfect home base for adventuring. There are plenty of cozy spaces to hide away at this Moorish-style hotel, with stunning casbah-inspired alcoves in the lobby, a library with a fireplace, and Spanish tapas and more at the wine bar Más.
Eat: Grab a New Mexico-style breakfast at the Central Grill and Coffee House, where red or green chile (Can’t decide? Have it “Christmas style,” a combination of both) reigns supreme on such comfort dishes as burritos and chilaquiles. For more modern fare (and more diverse options), hit up the lively Sawmill Market or 505 Central Food Hall for everything from Detroit-style pizza to ramen and tacos.
Do: Old Town Albuquerque is a year-round attraction with Pueblo-Spanish-style architecture, galleries, shops and restaurants, but it’s extra special during the holidays, when its plaza twinkles at night with farolitos, or luminarias, as they’re also known (a Southwest Christmas tradition of brown paper bag lanterns). On Christmas Eve, you can get tickets for a 45-minute Luminaria Tour bus ride that traverses decorated streets. The ABQ BioPark Botanic Garden will host its annual River of Lights holiday attraction from Nov. 30-Dec. 30 with more than 700 illuminated displays on a 1.5-mile walking path. For winter sports, check out Sandia Peak Ski Area, 35 miles northeast of Albuquerque. And for the kids, keep them entertained at the sprawling Explora interactive museum.
What to do in Santa Fe
Snow blankets the Santa Fe Plaza.
(Jean Trinh)
Stay: During the holidays, the lobby of the downtown Inn of the Governors is transformed into a cozy den complete with Christmas decorations, a roaring fireplace and a daily welcome hour with sherry and biscochitos (the cinnamon and anise-laced New Mexico state cookie). Full service breakfast is included for guests at its Del Charro restaurant and bar, which is open late until midnight on most days.
Eat: Cafe Pasqual’s is packed all day for good reasons: It has solid New Mexico dishes made with local and organic ingredients, it’s in a vibrant space decorated with colorful papeles picados, and it even has a communal table for lone travelers to make new friends. (Make sure to visit its adjacent art gallery while you’re there.) The 71-year-old Shed, also a Santa Fe institution, is a hot spot for margaritas, posole and red chile enchiladas.
Do: The Canyon Road Farolito Walk on Christmas Eve is a longtime Santa Fe tradition, where thousands stroll the artsy thoroughfare to check out the lights. There’s also La Luz de las Noches at the Santa Fe Botanical Garden, evenings from Dec. 19 to 31 (closed on Dec. 24 and 25), featuring farolitos, musical performances, food and drinks. For snow activities, travel 35 miles northeast from downtown to Ski Santa Fe, which will be debuting a new high speed lift this winter. Also, not to be missed is the massive immersive art experience of Meow Wolf, and film screenings at “Game of Thrones” creator George R.R. Martin’s Jean Cocteau Cinema.
Lifestyle
N.F.L. Style Will Never Beat N.B.A. Style
You want to see some real fashion ingenuity? Watch the N.F.L. draft.
I’m not saying it’s all good, but where else are you going to see someone in a double-breasted suit made by a company better known for making yoga pants? Or an Abercrombie & Fitch suit jacket so short that it exposes the belt loops on the pants beneath?
On the whole, the style on display at the N.F.L. draft last night was very overeager senior formal: a lot of suits in colors beyond basic blue. The quarterback Ty Simpson wore a custom suit by the athleisure label Alo, which, I have to say, looked better than I would have envisioned had you said the words “Alo Yoga suit” to me.
I thought it might have been from Suitsupply, but the conspicuous “Alo” pin on his right lapel put that idea to rest. Simpson, smartly, unfastened that beacon before appearing onstage as the 13th pick to the Los Angeles Rams. He had, perhaps, satisfied his contractual obligations by that point.
Earlier in the evening, as the wide receiver Carnell Tate threw up his arms in exaltation after being picked fourth by the Tennessee Titans, his cropped Abercrombie & Fitch jacket revealed a swatch of rib cage. He looked like a mâitre d’ who had just hit the Mega Millions.
During the N.B.A.’s extended fashion awakening, its draft has become a sandbox for luxury brands to cozy up to would-be endorsers. The Frenchman Victor Wembanyama broke a kind of cashmere ceiling when he wore Louis Vuitton to go first overall in the 2023 N.B.A. draft.
The N.F.L. draft has none of that. The brands you see are often not brands at all, but custom tailors that reach the league’s neophytes through a whisper network among players. The draft is also a platform to raise the curtain on longer-term brand deals that better suit these rookies. We may, for instance, never see Simpson in a suit again. Nearly every photo from his time at Alabama shows him in a T-shirt or hoodie. It makes sense for him to sign with Alo.
Football is the most mainstream of American cultural entities. And it’s one that still hasn’t, in spite of the league’s best efforts, taken off overseas. Few players, save some quarterbacks and a tight end who happens to be engaged to a pop star, feel bigger than the game itself. If you’re a new-to-the-league linebacker, you’ll most likely never harness the star power to grab the attention of Armani, but you might have just the right pull for Abercrombie.
The N.F.L. draft is therefore one of the few red carpets where the brands worn by the athletes may also be worn by those watching at home. How many people watching the Oscars will ever own clothes from Louis Vuitton or Chanel? People may comment online about Lady Gaga wearing Matières Fécales to the Grammys, but how many of those fans and viewers could afford to buy clothes from it?
The Japanese designers changing fashion
Yesterday, I published a deep dive into how a newish crop of Japanese designers are soaking up all the attention in men’s fashion right now. This was a piece I was writing in my head long before I sat down and finally started typing. I remember sitting at a fashion show in Paris over a year ago — I believe it was Dior — and being asked by my seatmate if I’d made it over to a showroom in the Marais to check out A.Presse. That Tokyo-based brand is now part of a vanguard of Japanese labels that, on many days, seems to be all anyone in fashion wants to talk about. I spent months talking with designers, store owners and big-time shoppers to make sense of why these brands have kicked up so much buzz and, more than that, what makes their clothes so great. You can read the story here.
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Lifestyle
How to have the best Sunday in L.A., according to Tig Notaro
Thirty years ago, comedian and actor Tig Notaro didn’t have a clear direction in life, so she followed some childhood friends who wanted to get into entertainment to Los Angeles. Secretly wanting to do stand-up, Notaro decided to try her luck at various outlets in town, which became the start of her successful career.
“I stayed on my friends’ couch near the Hollywood Improv on Melrose, and a couple months later, got my own studio apartment in the Miracle Mile area,” Notaro says. “I love all the options for everything in L.A. — the entertainment, the restaurants. I like to stay active. So many people love the hiking options in Los Angeles, and I’m one of them.”
In Sunday Funday, L.A. people give us a play-by-play of their ideal Sunday around town. Find ideas and inspiration on where to go, what to eat and how to enjoy life on the weekends.
Notaro appears in Season 3 of Apple TV’s “The Morning Show” and is a series regular on Paramount+’s “Star Trek: Starfleet Academy,” as she was on “Star Trek: Discovery.” She’s also a touring stand-up comic and hosts “Handsome,” a comedy podcast, with Fortune Feimster and Mae Martin. The trio will be taping a live show May 4 at the Wiltern with the cast of Netflix’s “The Hunting Wives.” The live shows include interviews, but also “incorporate some ridiculous things,” she says. For example, upon hearing that some of the hosts always wanted to learn to tap dance, Notaro “hired a tap instructor to come to our live show in Austin and teach us how to tap dance in front of the audience.”
Notaro lives near Hollywood with her wife, actor Stephanie Allynne, their 9-year-old fraternal twin boys, Max and Finn, and three cats, Fluff, Linus and Skip. When she’s not touring, her ideal Sundays include sampling vegan restaurants, wandering through bookstores or museums, and doing something physically active with the family.
This interview has been lightly edited and condensed for length and clarity.
6 a.m.: Up with the kids
Because we have active children, we still wake up at 6 a.m. or 6:30 a.m. on Sunday, but there’s not as much of a rush to get going. Stephanie and I will often have coffee and chat in the living room together. I love that part of the day. Stephanie may cook breakfast, but Max and Finn are pretty self-sufficient and can make certain little meals for themselves. Max is really starting to take an interest in cooking, so he’d make breakfast for himself. Our family is vegan, but he eats eggs, so he makes himself an egg sandwich with avocado a lot of times.
9 a.m.: Daily morning walk
After breakfast, we usually have a morning walk around our neighborhood. That’s a daily thing I like to do, regardless of what’s going on. Now that I’m not touring as much, tennis is back on the schedule. So I’d go to Plummer Park in West Hollywood and play for a while, then join the family for lunch.
11:30 a.m.: Hike with a side of chickpea sandwich
I love Trails, a cafe in Griffith Park, where you can eat outdoors. It serves simple food, and has good vegan options. I usually get their chickpea salad sandwich. The food there is great. Afterward, we’d visit Griffith Observatory, where there’s lots to see. There are lots of great trails in the park, so we’d go for an hour hike before leaving.
3 p.m.: Browse the shelves for rock biographies
Bookstores are fun, so we’d head downtown for the Last Bookstore, which is in a historic building with lots of vintage books. I really love all things plant-based, and I’m a very big music fanatic. So I love to look for vegan books, nutrition books, rock biographies and autobiographies. It’s just fun to browse around the stacks.
If we didn’t go to the bookstore, we’d probably go to LACMA. Our sons are huge fans of art and want to go for each new exhibit. They love Hockney, Basquiat and Picasso, to name a few.
4 p.m.: Cuddle with cuties at a cat cafe
We’d then make a quick stop at [Crumbs & Whiskers], a kitten and cat cafe on Melrose for coffee, snacks and to pet the cats. It’s best to make reservations in advance. There’s cats all around the place that need to be adopted. You can visit and pet them, or find a new roommate. I’d love to take some home, but we already have three.
5:30 p.m. Italian or sushi, but make it vegan
We’re an early dinner family. One restaurant we like is Pura Vita in West Hollywood. It’s the greatest vegan Italian food, and for non-vegans, nobody ever knows the difference. It’s the first 100% plant-based Italian restaurant in the United States. They make an incredible kale salad and I love the San Gennaro pizza. It’s got cashew mozzarella, tomato sauce, Italian sausage crumble and more.
Then there’s Planta in Marina del Rey. It’s right on the harbor and you can sit outside and look at the boats coming in and out. They have sushi, salads and other plant-based entrees. They’ve got a really great spicy tuna roll that’s made out of watermelon. They are magicians.
Or there’s Crossroads Kitchen in West Hollywood. They play the best classic rock, and the atmosphere is upscale, fine dining. The appetizers that we always get are called Moroccan Cigars, which are vegan meat substitutes fried in a rolled batter. I really like the grilled lion’s mane steak, their mushroom steak with truffle potatoes, or the scallopini Milanese, that has a chicken or tofu option. I get the chicken with arugula on top. I always love to have a decaf espresso with dessert, which is either a brownie sundae or banana pudding.
7:30 p.m.: Comfort watch or word games
After dinner, the kids often like to watch an episode of “Friends,” a show that all ages enjoy, sports or “The Simpsons.” Or we’d play a game where each of us will add a word to a sentence and create a weird or funny long sentence until one of our sons says period. Then they’ll try and remember the whole sentence and repeat it back.
9:30 p.m.: Bubble bath then bed
The boys usually go to bed at 8:30 p.m. and bedtime for us is 9:30 p.m. Stephanie and I would read or chat. I like to take a bubble bath, if people must know. The best Sundays for me mean finding a good balance of relaxing and being active. I feel very lucky that my family and I can do those things together.
Lifestyle
It Started with a Midnight Swim and a Kiss Under the Stars
When Marian Sherry Lurio and Jonathan Buffington Nguyen met at a mutual friend’s wedding at Higgins Lake, Mich., in July 2022, both felt an immediate chemistry. As the evening progressed, they sat on the shore of the lake in Adirondack chairs under the stars, where they had their first kiss before joining others for a midnight plunge.
The two learned that the following weekend Ms. Lurio planned to attend a wedding in Philadelphia, where Mr. Nguyen lives, and before they had even exchanged numbers, they already had a first date on the books.
“I have a vivid memory of after we first met,” Mr. Nguyen said, “just feeling like I really better not screw this up.”
Before long, they were commuting between Philadelphia and New York City, where Ms. Lurio lives, spending weekends and the odd remote work days in one another’s apartments in Philadelphia and Manhattan. Within the first six months of dating, Mr. Nguyen joined Ms. Lurio’s family for Thanksgiving in Villanova, Pa., and, the following month, she met his family in Beavercreek, Ohio, at a surprise birthday party for Mr. Nguyen’s mother.
Ms. Lurio, 32, who grew up in Merion Station outside Philadelphia, works in investor relations administration at Flexpoint Ford, a private equity firm. She graduated from Dartmouth College with a bachelor’s degree in history and psychology.
Mr. Nguyen, also 32, was born in Knoxville, Tenn., and raised in Beavercreek, Ohio, from the age of 7. He graduated from Haverford College with a bachelor’s degree in political science and is now a director at Doyle Real Estate Advisors in Philadelphia.
Their long-distance relationship continued for the next few years. There were dates in Manhattan, vacations and beach trips to the Jersey Shore. They attended sporting events and discovered their shared appreciation of the 2003 film, “Love Actually.”
One evening, Mr. Nguyen recalled looking around Ms. Lurio’s small New York studio — strewed with clothes and the takeout meal they had ordered — and feeling “so comfortable and safe.” “I knew that this was something different than just sort of a fling,” he said.
It was an open question when they would move in together. In 2024, Ms. Lurio began the process of moving into Mr. Nguyen’s home in Philadelphia — even bringing her cat, Scott — but her plans changed midway when an opportunity arose to expand her role with her current employer.
Mr. Nguyen was on board with her decision. “It almost feels like stolen valor to call it ‘long distance,’ because it’s so easy from Philadelphia to New York,” Mr. Nguyen said. “The joke is, it’s easier to get to Philly from New York than to get to some parts of Brooklyn from Manhattan, right?”
In January 2025, Mr. Nguyen visited Ms. Lurio in New York with more up his sleeve than spending the weekend. Together they had discussed marriage and bespoke rings, but when Mr. Nguyen left Ms. Lurio and an unfinished cheese plate at the bar of the Chelsea Hotel that Friday evening, she had no idea what was coming next.
“I remember texting Jonathan,” Ms. Lurio said, bewildered: “‘You didn’t go toward the bathroom!’” When a Lobby Bar server came and asked her to come outside, Ms. Lurio still didn’t realize what was happening until she was standing in the hallway, where Mr. Nguyen stood recreating a key moment from the film “Love Actually,” in which one character silently professes his love for another in writing by flashing a series of cue cards. There, in the storied Chelsea Hotel hallway still festooned with Christmas decorations, Mr. Nguyen shared his last card that said, “Will you marry me?”
They wed on April 11 in front of 200 guests at the Pump House, a covered space on the banks of Philadelphia’s Schuylkill River. Mr. Nguyen’s sister, the Rev. Elizabeth Nguyen, who is ordained through the Unitarian Universalist Association, officiated.
Although formal attire was suggested, Ms. Lurio said that the ceremony was “pretty casual.” She and Jonathan got ready together, and their families served as their wedding parties.
“I said I wanted a five-minute wedding,” Ms. Lurio recalled, though the ceremony ended up lasting a little longer than that. During the ceremony, Ms. Nguyen read a homily and jokingly added that guests should not ask the bride and groom about their living arrangements, which will remain separate for the foreseeable future.
While watching Ms. Lurio walk down the aisle, flanked by her parents, Mr. Nguyen said he remembered feeling at once grounded in the moment and also a sense of dazed joy: “Like, is this real? I felt very lucky in that moment — and also just excited for the party to start!”
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