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This magical Amtrak ride to New Mexico belongs on your winter bucket list (but book soon)

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This magical Amtrak ride to New Mexico belongs on your winter bucket list (but book soon)

It was early morning in mid-December when I awoke to the sounds of steady rumbling while lying in the top bunk in my 9-by-5-foot family room in Amtrak’s Southwest Chief train. I climbed down a ladder to find my husband and 5-year-old daughter still snoozing in the lower bunk. Grabbing a seat on the gray banquette by the window, I pulled aside a blue curtain and was astounded by the view of peachy-pink clouds as we rolled across the rugged desert. We were passing through Holbrook, Ariz., and the sunrise was beautiful enough to be in a watercolor painting. At that moment, I felt like I was in a Wes Anderson movie.

There’s a child-like wonderment that comes from taking a train through the expansive Southwest to New Mexico in the winter that you just won’t get from plane travel. We opted for a 16-hour overnight trip instead of a two-hour flight to Albuquerque because we longed for a different way of traveling, one we hoped would slow time in our busy lives. Although we were asleep for half the ride, we spent the remaining hours taking in the beautiful scenery, which looks especially magnificent through the floor-to-ceiling windows of the Sightseer Lounge, and enjoying a three-course steak dinner before arriving in Albuquerque around 11 a.m.

If you’ve never planned a nearly 800-mile train trip before, you’ll find some considerations different from traveling by plane or car. Depending on which accommodations you book, Amtrak’s Southwest Chief, which goes all the way to Chicago, can be more expensive than flying. But whether you’re traveling with kids, by yourself or with a friend or partner, there are lots of ways to make it work within your budget.

Read on for tips on the Amtrak experience, along with what to do and eat, and where to stay in New Mexico. If you’re lucky, you might even get to enjoy a dreamy snowfall in the Land of Enchantment.

Booking your train tickets

The early bird gets the best accommodations. Reserve your tickets — Union Station to Albuquerque — as soon as possible since the most desirable rooms (especially family rooms, which can fit up to two adults and two children) are the first to get snatched up. While coach seats are economical, getting to actually lie down for shut-eye in the private rooms can make a world of difference. The roomette and bedroom options can each fit up to two adults (although the former can be a tight squeeze), and the bedroom suite combines two adjoining rooms. Some come with personal bathrooms and showers, while others are shared, so book accordingly. A perk of having a room is that it’s considered first class, so a dedicated attendant will be available to help with turndown service and luggage, and dining car meals are complimentary.

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Arriving at Union Station

Union Station in Los Angeles.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

If you’re looking to avoid a hectic LAX experience during the holidays, think of Union Station as its laid-back sibling. Overnight parking is almost always available in the Union Station East garage for $8 per day. (If you plan on parking there for three or more nights, download and fill out a parking request form from the Union Station website and drop it off in the parking office located at Union Station East.)

Plan to arrive at least an hour before your train’s departure if you have to check luggage, are traveling with family or if you’ve made a specific request for assistance at the station. Otherwise, 30 minutes should suffice. If you have a first class ticket, head over to the Amtrak Station Lounge to enjoy complimentary drinks and snacks while you await your departure.

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What to bring

If you are checking luggage, make sure to bring a small overnight backpack that will fit in your room or in the overhead compartment near your coach seat. (Smaller rooms may not fit carry-on luggage and you may need to store it outside of your room, so you’ll want the overnight bag for easy access.) If you need to charge multiple devices, bring a small multi-plug splitter as there is usually just one electrical outlet. Earplugs can dampen the chugging train sounds at night. And carry cash to tip the first-class attendants and waiters.

Transportation in Albuquerque and getting to Santa Fe

The Amtrak train will arrive at the Downtown Albuquerque Rail Runner station. From there, you can book a Turo rental in which a vehicle gets dropped off at your location, or visit Enterprise about a mile away (and call the rental office in advance to schedule a free pick-up service). Or take Uber or a free city bus to the rental car center at Albuquerque International Sunport airport, where more options are available.

To get to Santa Fe, you can drive there in an hour or extend your train travel with a ticketed 1.5-hour ride on the New Mexico Rail Runner Express to the Santa Fe Depot Rail Runner station, which is half a mile from downtown Santa Fe.

What to do in Albuquerque

Old Town Poco a Poco Plaza in Albuquerque.

Old Town Poco a Poco Plaza in Albuquerque.

(Jean Trinh)

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Stay: The historic Hotel Andaluz is a five-minute walk from the Albuquerque station, making it a perfect home base for adventuring. There are plenty of cozy spaces to hide away at this Moorish-style hotel, with stunning casbah-inspired alcoves in the lobby, a library with a fireplace, and Spanish tapas and more at the wine bar Más.

Eat: Grab a New Mexico-style breakfast at the Central Grill and Coffee House, where red or green chile (Can’t decide? Have it “Christmas style,” a combination of both) reigns supreme on such comfort dishes as burritos and chilaquiles. For more modern fare (and more diverse options), hit up the lively Sawmill Market or 505 Central Food Hall for everything from Detroit-style pizza to ramen and tacos.

Do: Old Town Albuquerque is a year-round attraction with Pueblo-Spanish-style architecture, galleries, shops and restaurants, but it’s extra special during the holidays, when its plaza twinkles at night with farolitos, or luminarias, as they’re also known (a Southwest Christmas tradition of brown paper bag lanterns). On Christmas Eve, you can get tickets for a 45-minute Luminaria Tour bus ride that traverses decorated streets. The ABQ BioPark Botanic Garden will host its annual River of Lights holiday attraction from Nov. 30-Dec. 30 with more than 700 illuminated displays on a 1.5-mile walking path. For winter sports, check out Sandia Peak Ski Area, 35 miles northeast of Albuquerque. And for the kids, keep them entertained at the sprawling Explora interactive museum.

What to do in Santa Fe

Snow blankets the Santa Fe Plaza.

Snow blankets the Santa Fe Plaza.

(Jean Trinh)

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Stay: During the holidays, the lobby of the downtown Inn of the Governors is transformed into a cozy den complete with Christmas decorations, a roaring fireplace and a daily welcome hour with sherry and biscochitos (the cinnamon and anise-laced New Mexico state cookie). Full service breakfast is included for guests at its Del Charro restaurant and bar, which is open late until midnight on most days.

Eat: Cafe Pasqual’s is packed all day for good reasons: It has solid New Mexico dishes made with local and organic ingredients, it’s in a vibrant space decorated with colorful papeles picados, and it even has a communal table for lone travelers to make new friends. (Make sure to visit its adjacent art gallery while you’re there.) The 71-year-old Shed, also a Santa Fe institution, is a hot spot for margaritas, posole and red chile enchiladas.

Do: The Canyon Road Farolito Walk on Christmas Eve is a longtime Santa Fe tradition, where thousands stroll the artsy thoroughfare to check out the lights. There’s also La Luz de las Noches at the Santa Fe Botanical Garden, evenings from Dec. 19 to 31 (closed on Dec. 24 and 25), featuring farolitos, musical performances, food and drinks. For snow activities, travel 35 miles northeast from downtown to Ski Santa Fe, which will be debuting a new high speed lift this winter. Also, not to be missed is the massive immersive art experience of Meow Wolf, and film screenings at “Game of Thrones” creator George R.R. Martin’s Jean Cocteau Cinema.

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Out of work and with 2 teens, this mom may lose food stamps under Trump’s changes

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Out of work and with 2 teens, this mom may lose food stamps under Trump’s changes

Mara is a single mother of two in Minnesota. She and her family have depended on SNAP benefits to make ends meet.

Caroline Yang for NPR


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Caroline Yang for NPR

Although Mara is unemployed, she is busier than ever.

When she is not taking care of her two children, Mara is at her desk applying for jobs. She is surveying her belongings to see what she can pawn off to buy toiletries. Or she is sifting through bills, calculating which ones can wait and which need to be paid right away.

Soon, Mara, a single mom in Minnesota, may have another task on her busy schedule: figuring out how to afford food for her and her family.

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That’s because of new work requirements for people receiving aid from the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program, also known as SNAP or food stamps.

“It would be so beyond hard” to lose SNAP benefits, Mara said. “Without SNAP, there’s no funds for food.” Mara asked for her last name to be withheld given the stigma tied to receiving government assistance. She is also worried that speaking publicly will affect her chances of getting a job.

Previously, SNAP recipients with children under 18 were exempt from work requirements mandating that recipients work, volunteer or participate in job training at least 80 hours a month. But now, under President Trump’s One Big Beautiful Bill Act, that exemption only applies to those with children under 14 — which is how old Mara’s youngest child turned in December.

Mara poses for a portrait at CareerForce, a resource for job seekers in Minnesota.

“It would be so beyond hard” to lose SNAP benefits, Mara said.

Caroline Yang for NPR


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Caroline Yang for NPR

The Trump administration has argued that the mission of the nation’s largest anti-hunger program has failed.

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“SNAP was intended to be temporary help for those who encounter tough times. Now, it’s become so bloated that it is leaving fewer resources for those who truly need help,” the White House said in a statement in June.

But policy experts say the SNAP changes do not fully take into account the unique challenges faced by single parents like Mara or the sluggish job market in many parts of the country. They argue that losing food assistance will only create more barriers for recipients struggling to find work.

The timeline for implementing the new SNAP policy varies based on state and county. In Mara’s home state of Minnesota, recipients who don’t qualify for an exemption or meet work requirements will be at risk of losing assistance as early as April 1. Others may have more months depending on when they next need to certify they are eligible for benefits.

Over 100 job applications

Mara imagined she would have a job by now.

It was August when she was let go from her part-time administrative assistant role due to her workplace restructuring. Since then, Mara estimates that she has applied for over 100 positions. She has also attended job fairs and taken free workshops on resume writing.

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She has been working since high school, she said, but “ I’ve never been out of work for more than one month, so it’s very difficult.”

Mara spends time working at the computer at CareerForce, a resource for job seekers in Minnesota, on March 4.

Mara spends time working at the computer at CareerForce, a resource for job seekers in Minnesota, on March 4.

Caroline Yang for NPR


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Caroline Yang for NPR

Although she misses her old job, Mara said it didn’t pay enough to support her and her kids, so she relied on SNAP benefits.

Many recipients are part of the low-wage labor market, where job security is often unpredictable and turnover tends to be high, according to Lauren Bauer, a researcher at the Brookings Institution who has studied SNAP extensively.

“SNAP is supposed to be there to help people smooth that and not let the bottom fall out when they experience job loss,” she said. “And this policy doesn’t account for that at all.”

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Mara’s lowest point came in November when the government shutdown led to disruptions in SNAP benefits. Not only was she searching for a new job, but she was constantly figuring out where to get her family’s next meal.

“I might be looking for food stuff during the day when I should have been looking for a job,” she said. “Then, I’m trying to make up that time in the evening after my kids go to bed.”

During the pause, Mara turned to food banks, which revealed other challenges. First, food pantries do not always provide enough for an adult and two growing teenagers, she said. Second, they often lack gluten-free foods, which is essential for her daughter who has celiac disease, an autoimmune disorder that causes digestive problems if gluten is consumed. Gluten-free products tend to be more expensive.

If Mara loses access to SNAP again because of the new work requirements, she fears another stretch of long days spent looking for the right food and enough to feed her family.

“I would be so reliant on looking for food shelves or food banks,” she said. “There would not be time to even live.”

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“We’re going to see increases in poverty. We’re going to see increases in food insecurity”

The Congressional Budget Office estimates that roughly 2.4 million people will lose food benefits in a typical month over the next decade as a result of the new SNAP requirements — including 300,000 parents like Mara with children 14 or older.

Gina Plata-Nino, the SNAP director at the nonprofit Food Research & Action Center, says many of the affected recipients will be single mothers who make up a majority of single parent households in the U.S. She added that the changes target a group that often lacks or struggles to afford a support system to help care for their children.

“How can they have a full-time job when they need to pick up their children [for] various activities?” she said. “And they are working — just not enough hours because they need to be there present for their children.”

Mara shops for groceries at a local discount grocery store.

Mara shops for groceries at a local discount grocery store.

Caroline Yang for NPR


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Caroline Yang for NPR

The new law also imposes work requirements on veterans, homeless people, young adults aging out of foster care, and able-bodied adults without dependents from ages 55 to 64.

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It also toughened the criteria for waiving work requirements for recipients in areas with high unemployment. Previously, there were multiple ways to determine a weak labor market and secure a waiver. Now, it only applies to places with an unemployment rate above 10%. (Alaska and Hawaii have a different measure.)

For those who fail to meet the work requirement, SNAP provides assistance for up to three months within a three-year span. But Bauer from the Brookings Institution argues that it is not enough and the impact of SNAP changes will be widespread.

“We’re going to see increases in poverty. We’re going to see increases in food insecurity. We’re going to see increasing strain on the charitable food sector,” she said.

Mara holds her favorite anchor ring, which carries the inscription, "God for me provide thee."

Mara holds her favorite anchor ring, which carries the inscription, “God for me provide thee.”

Caroline Yang for NPR


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As anxiety hangs over her head, Mara tries to put on a brave face for her children. She does not want them to worry, explaining that her recent struggles have reminded her how tough life can get as an adult.

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“I remind them it’s not their responsibility and they’re not accountable for me or for what’s happening,” she said. “I say, just know you get to be a kid.”

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‘TODAY’ Show Dylan Dreyer Says Savannah Guthrie Will Likely Return, Not Sure When

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‘TODAY’ Show Dylan Dreyer Says Savannah Guthrie Will Likely Return, Not Sure When

Dylan Dreyer
Savannah Will Likely Come Back … Just Not Sure When

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‘American Classic’ is a hidden gem that gets even better as it goes

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‘American Classic’ is a hidden gem that gets even better as it goes

Kevin Kline plays actor Richard Bean, and Laura Linney is his sister-in-law Kristen, in American Classic.

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David Giesbrecht/MGM+

American Classic is a hidden gem, in more ways than one. It’s hidden because it’s on MGM+, a stand-alone streaming service that, let’s face it, most people don’t have. But MGM+ is available without subscription for a seven-day free trial, on its website or through Prime Video and Roku. And you should find and watch American Classic, because it’s an absolutely charming and wonderful TV jewel.

Charming, in the way it brings small towns and ordinary people to life, as in Northern Exposure. Wonderful, in the way it reflects the joys of local theater productions, as in Slings & Arrows, and the American Playhouse production of Kurt Vonnegut’s Who Am I This Time?

The creators of American Classic are Michael Hoffman and Bob Martin. Martin co-wrote and co-created Slings & Arrows, so that comparison comes easily. And back in the early 1980s, Who Am I This Time? was about people who transformed onstage from ordinary citizens into extraordinary performers. It’s a conceit that works only if you have brilliant actors to bring it to life convincingly. That American Playhouse production had two young actors — Christopher Walken and Susan Sarandon — so yes, it worked. And American Classic, with its mix of veteran and young actors, does, too.

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American Classic begins with Kevin Kline, as Shakespearean actor Richard Bean, confronting a New York Times drama critic about his negative opening-night review of Richard’s King Lear. The next day, Richard’s agent, played by Tony Shalhoub, calls Richard in to tell him his tantrum was captured by cellphone and went viral, and that he has to lay low for a while.

Richard returns home to the small town of Millersburg, Pa., where his parents ran a local theater. Almost everyone we meet is a treasure. His father, who has bouts of dementia, is played by Len Cariou, who starred on Broadway in Sweeney Todd. Richard’s brother, Jon, is played by Jon Tenney of The Closer, and his wife, Kristen, is played by the great Laura Linney, from Ozark and John Adams.

Things get even more complicated because the old theater is now a dinner theater, filling its schedule with performances by touring regional companies. Its survival is at risk, so Richard decides to save the theater by mounting a new production of Thornton Wilder’s Our Town, casting the local small-town residents to play … local small-town residents.

Miranda, Richard’s college-bound niece, continues the family theatrical tradition — and Nell Verlaque, the young actress who plays her, has a breakout role here. She’s terrific — funny, touching, totally natural. And when she takes the stage as Emily in Our Town, she’s heart-wrenching. Playwright Wilder is served magnificently here — and so is William Shakespeare, whose works and words Kline tackles in more than one inspirational scene in this series.

I don’t want to reveal too much about the conflicts, and surprises, in American Classic, but please trust me: The more episodes you watch, the better it gets. The characters evolve, and go in unexpected directions and pairings. Kline’s Richard starts out thinking about only himself, but ends up just the opposite. And if, as Shakespeare wrote, the play’s the thing, the thing here is, the plays we see, and the soliloquies we hear, are spellbinding.

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And there’s plenty of fun to be had outside the classics in American Classic. The table reads are the most delightful since the ones in Only Murders in the Building. The dinner-table arguments are the most explosive since the ones in The Bear. Some scenes are take-your-breath-away dramatic. Others are infectiously silly, as when Richard works with a cast member forced upon him by the angel of this new Our Town production.

Take the effort to find, and watch, American Classic. It’ll remind you why, when it’s this good, it’s easy to love the theater. And television.

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