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These never-before-seen photos of Björk at Chateau Marmont are giving otherworldly glee

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These never-before-seen photos of Björk at Chateau Marmont are giving otherworldly glee

Mike had me cornered. He’d graduated ages ago, but his tastes hadn’t. He still went to high school house parties to drool over girls who read Sassy and got their braces tightened every four weeks.

“Hey,” he said to my padded bra.

“Hey,” I grumbled back.

Adulthood had given Mike a power he was eager to exploit; he could buy alcohol legally. Since my underage friends and I relied on people like Mike to supply us with Boone’s Strawberry Hill, we used caution around them. Mocking these losers could endanger our access to saccharine wines. It also could endanger us.

Mike gestured at my face with his half-empty bottle of Zima and asked, “Anyone ever told you you look like Buh-Jork?”

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“You mean … Björk?”

Mike ignored my correction, instead asking, “What are you? You’re so … exotic.” He rambled on about Buh-jork’s “kind-of-Asian-hotness” until friends came to my rescue.

I confess this embarrassing Gen X memory as a gesture of solidarity. Many multiracial ladies of a certain age were similarly fetishized by their local Mikes, and for those of us perceived as embodying a certain type of racial ambiguity, being flirtatiously likened to Buh-jork was a collective rite of passage in the 1990s. Gross guys stereotyped us, casting us as orientalized, manic pixie dream girls.

When One Little Indian and Elektra Entertainment released Björk Guðmundsdóttir’s international debut solo album in July 1993, the world went bonkers for the record. “Debut” introduced the 28-year-old Icelandic musician to millions of fans, but some of us already admired her; that’s why we knew how not to butcher her name. We were kids who listened to the Sugarcubes, the alternative rock band for which Björk sung and pounded the keyboard. Released in 1992, “Stick Around for Joy” became the Sugarcubes’ third and final album, and it had given me “Hit,” a melodramatic song perfect for channeling my sophomoric woes. I was in awe of the way Björk growled the exasperated lyric, “This wasn’t supposed to happen,” and I adopted those five words as my own, growling the verse when I got Fs on French quizzes or popped ripe zits too close to the bathroom mirror.

The two-hour shoot at the Chateau Marmont happened the day before Spike Jonze and Björk would begin working on the iconic video for the single “It’s Oh So Quiet.”

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(Spike Jonze)

Among those smitten with “Debut” was Spike Jonze, an instrumental figure in the history of California skateboard culture. Jonze’s passion for documenting street skating led him to filmmaking, and he became a leading music video director whose easily identifiable style, one that married the indie with the chic, shaped the visual aesthetics of the ’90s and early aughts. In 1995, Detour Magazine sent Jonze to the Chateau Marmont to photograph Björk. Five years prior, the storied French Gothic castle perched high on Sunset Boulevard had changed hands, coming under new ownership. Hotelier André Balazs subjected his acquisition to a facelift that erased much of its gritty and dilapidated charm. Tattered curtains, matted carpets and missing shower heads were replaced. A gym was installed in the attic. After witnessing its restoration, former It girl Eve Babitz, a Chateau regular, lamented, “I couldn’t imagine wanting to commit suicide here anymore.”

The singer aggressively winks at the camera, reminiscent of a pirate. We peek at Björk, but the voyeurism is mutual.

(Spike Jonze)

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The two-hour Detour shoot happened the day before Jonze and Björk would begin working on the iconic video for the single “It’s Oh So Quiet,” and the mountain of photographs that they created together revives some of the Chateau’s former mystique. Björk and Jonze made use of the hotel’s interiors and pool, and the results are imbued with a sense of otherworldly glee that tells me the pair probably had a damn good time making art together. The results also present Björk’s beauty and intelligence as hers, not ours to devour. This self-possession is apparent in one of the six photographs published as part of Detour’s 1995 music issue. In it, the singer aggressively winks at the camera, reminiscent of a pirate. She withholds much of her body, especially skin, from the lens. Her pose forces the viewer’s eyes to her face, drawing attention to her eye. We peek at Björk, but the voyeurism is mutual.

Decades after the Chateau shoot, the fashion designer and creative director Humberto Leon discovered a trove of outtakes while helping Jonze to organize his archive. The two had met in 2004, when Jason Schwartzman introduced Jonze to Leon at a Christmas party, and the pair quickly developed a close bond, becoming one another’s artistic sounding boards. The pictures struck a nostalgic chord in Leon, a longing for the subcultural days of yore, and after proposing to Jonze that he exhibit at Arroz and Fun, Leon’s restaurant and gallery space in Lincoln Heights, the two decided to display 25 of Jonze’s never-before-seen photographs at the space (the show opens Feb. 15 and will remain on view through May). For die-hard fans unable to make it to Lincoln Heights, Jonze also is releasing “The Day I Met Björk,” a free downloadable zine through WeTransfer. A limited supply of physical copies will be sold at the gallery.

The image of Björk holding a white coffee mug to her lips summons the mornings after teen slumber parties.

(Spike Jonze)

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Often, when a male photographer shoots an ingenue in a hotel room, she winds up on the bed in a come-hither pose not found in the wild. Think Britney Spears’ first Rolling Stone cover shot by David LaChapelle, the one where the teen is wearing lingerie, holding a phone to her ear and cradling a Teletubby. It is pure Lolita. Instead of invoking such motifs, Jonze’s bedroom shots of Björk are goofy girl slumber party, the kind my friends and I had. Wrapped in white sheets, the singer transforms into a joyful poltergeist hopping on the bed, reminding me of the time that I jumped so hard on my bed, it broke. This incurred my father’s wrath but here’s the thing: Sometimes pissing off your dad is worth it. Björk’s other bedroom photo, the one where she wears an orange button-down blouse and sits at the foot of the bed, holding a white coffee cup to her lips, reminds me of the morning after our teen slumber parties. Recovery from our revelry required that we sip Alka-Seltzer and wolf down menudo.

If we run our eyes up and down the contact sheets from the shoot, our minds can construct a moving picture of Björk as artist and muse.

(Spike Jonze)

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If we run our eyes up and down the contact sheets from the shoot, our minds can construct a moving picture of Björk as artist and muse. She steps through doorways, down hallways and toward the light. Engulfing her face, the brightness creates a white eclipse. While this series of photographs taken of Björk in orange relies on preternatural tropes, those made in the bathroom take it further, pushing into the realm of the supernatural, of time travel. In a pose reminiscent of the fight scenes from “The Matrix” franchise, Björk appears in suspended animation, her back arched, head frozen above the faucet, arms dangling at her sides. She stares up, at no one. The pose is vulnerable and just ethereal enough. It raises the question that we may, or may not be, living in the same dimension as Björk.

My favorite portrait created at the Chateau was shot underwater. Once again, Björk appears suspended, this time in rich blue. Her brown mane swirls and snakes, reaching for the surface. She is backlit by the L.A. sun, whose rays create an aura above her head. Her green dress summons the illusion that Björk is a scaly creature, one who breathes through gills and uses a tail to propel herself through lakes, rivers and oceans. She might also use that tail in self-defense. The photo recalls another classic ’90s image, Nirvana’s “Nevermind” album cover with the aquatic baby. While Nirvana’s baby spreads both arms wide, Björk uses her right arm to wave at the camera.

(Spike Jonze)

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She seems happiest as a mermaid, and I can’t help but hope that her joy comes from her affinity for the sirens, those ancient Greek tritonesses who lured sailors with their magical voices, only to inspire these mesmerized seamen to sacrifice themselves against seaside cliffs. Björk is no Disney mermaid. Instead, I imagine that as a mercreature, she has more in common with Michi-Cihualli, the fish woman who dwells in Chapala, the Mexican freshwater lake where I spent some of my childhood. According to the Coca people, Michi-Cihualli is the daughter of Tlaloc, the rain god. When winds blow hard across the lake and storms brew over its waters, it is said that Michi-Cihualli is angry and must be pacified. Soothing her requires blood, and my imagination can easily conjure Björk accepting blood sacrifice, gnawing on the rib of an annoying sailor who dared to tell her that she looked exotic.

In 1996, a video of Björk attacking reporter Julie Kaufman at the Bangkok airport surfaced. The scene dispelled the popular image of the singer as a mindless, erotic elf and cemented her status as someone not to mess with, someone willing to draw a little blood. An artist in blissful control of her trademark strangeness, Björk’s way of being a weird woman in the music world meant a lot to aspiring weirdos like me. Instead of the typical hypersexualized vamp, Björk offered girls like me a different template, and the more bizarre she revealed herself to be, the more our loyalty to her deepened. Images of the singer were part of the collage that covered my bedroom walls when I was a teen, and I hope that the newly published pictures of Björk find their way into the right kid’s hands. There are so many girls who need a ferocious mermaid with a beautiful voice to sing them into adulthood.

Björk is an artist in blissful control of her trademark strangeness.

(Spike Jonze)

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Myriam Gurba is the author of “Mean,” a ghostly memoir about survivorship that was selected as a New York Times Editors’ Choice. Her latest book, “Creep: Accusations and Confessions,” was published by Avid Reader Press.

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Street Style Look of the Week: Airy Beachy Clothes

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Street Style Look of the Week: Airy Beachy Clothes

“She’s like a female Willy Wonka,” Sakief Baron, 36, said about Kendra Austin, 32, after she explained that her personal style had a playful and cartoonish spirit.

Dressed in loose, oversize layers in blue and neutral shades, the couple were walking on the Upper East Side of Manhattan when I noticed them on a Saturday in April. There was a symmetry to their ensembles, so it wasn’t too surprising when she noted that he had influenced her fashion sense.

Before they met, she said, she was “less sure” about her wardrobe choices. “I also have lost 100 pounds in the time we’ve been together,” she added, which she said had helped her to recalibrate her relationship with clothes.

His style has been influenced by hip-hop culture, basketball players like Allen Iverson and his mother’s Finnish background. “I just take all these pieces and then it kind of comes together,” he said.

Both described themselves as multidisciplinary artists; he also has a job at a youth center, mentoring children. “I want to make sure that I look like someone they want to aspire to be every time they see me,” he said.

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What are Angelenos giving away in one Buy Nothing group? All this treasured stuff

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What are Angelenos giving away in one Buy Nothing group? All this treasured stuff

In my L.A. Buy Nothing group, I started noticing how some objects, given for free from neighbor to neighbor, carry emotional weight. An item was more than it appeared. It was a piece of personal history, perhaps one with generational memories.

From one person’s hands to another’s, objects find new life through the free gift economy on Facebook or the Buy Nothing app. Buy Nothing Project, a public benefit corporation, reports having 14 million members across more than 50 countries who give away 2.6 million items a month. There are more than 100 groups in Los Angeles alone.

Buy Nothing reduces waste by keeping items out of landfills. It also builds community. When our lives are increasingly online, Buy Nothing encourages us to get out of our cars and make connections with neighbors, even if the interaction is no more than a wave when picking something up left by a doorstep. Researchers have found that even small social interactions can foster a sense of belonging.

Still, Buy Nothing has its challenges. For years, some have complained that the groups shouldn’t be limited to neighborhoods, but rather have more open borders. Last year, many longtime members complained about the project enforcing its trademark, leading Facebook to shut down unregistered groups even if they were serving people under economic strain. Critics saw the tattling as a shift from mutual aid toward control and branding. For its part, Buy Nothing says its decisions are based on building community, trust and safety.

Despite those disagreements, Buy Nothing offers a platform for special connections. As much as there are jokes about people offering half-eaten cake, many have passed along treasured items. Buy Nothing items may feel too valuable for the trash or too personal for Goodwill. The interaction between giver and receiver becomes just as meaningful as the object itself.

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I set out to document these quiet exchanges in my Buy Nothing group, drawn to the question of why people choose to pass their belongings from one neighbor to another.

Tiny builders, big exchange

Lidia Butcher gives a toolbox and worktable her two sons used to Chelsea Ward for her 17-month-old son.

“We’ve had the toolbox and worktable for the last 10 years, it’s been very special. When I told my youngest son we were going to give it away, he was a little sad. He said he was still playing with it, but then I explained that it’s been sitting untouched for a year and that if we gave it to someone else, maybe someone else would be happy about it. So he felt joy about giving it to another child who would want to play with it. I have this little emotional feeling letting it go, but at the same time, it’s a good feeling. Like a new beginning.”

— Lidia Butcher, 35, joined the group several years ago when someone told her a person in the group once asked for a cup of sugar.

“We’re getting a worktable. Benji is now old enough to be interested in playing with tools. I’m going to move my drafting table out of his room. His bedroom is my office. So that will go into storage or the Buy Nothing group and the worktable will go in its place. We live in an apartment, and as he’s growing, his needs change but our space doesn’t. Buy Nothing is really helpful to be able to cycle out of stuff.”

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— Chelsea Ward, 38, has found the Buy Nothing group extremely helpful since becoming a mom.

Something borrowed

Abby Rodriguez lends Sophie Janinet a veil for her wedding.

“Sophie had asked for a wedding veil on our Buy Nothing group and I’m lending it to her because I wanted it to have a second life. I hate the idea that precious things just sit there and never get touched. My wedding day was one of the best days of my life. At one point the power went out and now we have this amazing picture with my husband and I and everyone using their phone to light up the dance floor.”

— Abby Rodriguez, 40, discovered Buy Nothing when she moved to her northeast L.A. neighborhood in 2020.

“I moved to Los Angeles from France four years ago. The day I joined Buy Nothing was the first time I felt connected to the community. It played a huge role in my adapting to life here. I’m receiving a veil because I want my wedding to look and feel like my values. I thrifted my dress, I chose a local seamstress to alter the dress but when I tried it on, I felt something was missing. I wanted a veil but I didn’t want to buy new because I didn’t want to add anything to the landfill. So I posted a request for the veil on Buy Nothing.”

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— Sophie Janinet, 37, is recreating the low-waste, slower-paced values she once lived by in France through her local Buy Nothing community.

1

2 Two women sit on steps with a fake owl.

1. Abby Rodriguez, left, holds her wedding veil that she is lending Sophie Janinet, right, for her upcoming wedding. 2. Michele Sawers, left stands with Beth Penn, right, while giving her a decorative owl.

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A pigeon-spooking owl gets a second life

Michele Sawers gives Beth Penn a decorative owl.

“Coming from a place of luck, now I have plenty to give. The owl has been with me for 26 years. I bought the owl soon after I bought this house. The owl was purchased because I had a pigeon problem, they would camp out under my eves and I would have bird poop everywhere. The owl must have worked because they’re gone and they haven’t come back.”

— Michele Sawers, 58, uses Buy Nothing regularly to connect with her community and support her low-consumption values.

“There are things I don’t want to own. So borrowing those things on Buy Nothing is really nice. There is a person who I borrowed their cooler twice and their ladder twice so I feel like they are my neighbor even though they are not [right next door]. We get these birds that poop on the deck and the recommendation online was to get a fake owl. When it was posted on Buy Nothing, I thought, ‘I have to have that owl!’ It’s going to have a good home with me on the deck with some cats, a dog and some kids.”

— Beth Penn, 47, once helped build her local Buy Nothing group and now experiences it from the other side, as a member.

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Stuffed toys find a new purpose

Two women stand in front of a green plant holding stuffed dolls and a bag of ball pit balls.

Magaly Leyva, left, stands with Tatiana Lonny, right, with the stuffed toys and play balls she is gifting her.

(Dania Maxwell/For The Times)

Magaly Leyva gives stuffed toys and plastic play balls to Tatiana Lonny.

“My mother-in-law gave the dolls and plastic play balls to my daughter, but she has so much. My daughter is not going to play with them with the same intent that another kid would, because she’s really little. I’d rather another kid use these things.”

— Magaly Leyva, 35, joined Buy Nothing nearly four years ago to find clothes for her nephew.

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“I’m taking these new items to a township called Langa in South Africa. I know the kids there will be so happy. They have so little there. I’m doing this all by myself, I’m just collecting a GoFundMe for the suitcase fee at the airport.”

— Tatiana Lonny, 51, began using Buy Nothing in hopes of finding resources to support the animals she rescues.

A second helping

Laura Cherkas gives Aurora Sanchez a cast iron pan.

“Buy Nothing gives me the freedom to let go of things because I know that they will stay in the community and the neighborhood. I’m giving a couple of cast iron items that my husband and I got when we were on a cast iron kick, probably during COVID. We determined that we don’t actually use these particular pans and they were just making our drawers heavy. So we decided to let someone else get some use out of them.

“I hate throwing things away. I want to see things have another life. Sometimes I take things to a donation center, but I like the personal connection with Buy Nothing and that you know that there is someone who definitely wants your item.”

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— Laura Cherkas, 40, has built connections with other moms through Buy Nothing and values it as a way to cycle toys in and out for her child.

Two women stand by a gate at night holding cast iron pans.

Laura Cherkas, left, holds the pan she is gifting Aurora Sanchez, right, through Buy Nothing.

(Dania Maxwell/For The Times)

“I wanted a cast iron pan because I cook a lot of grilled meat. I’m excited to try this style of cooking out and it will help me when I cook for only one or two people. I got lucky because I was chosen to receive it.”

— Aurora Sanchez, 54, has spent the past two years engaging with Buy Nothing, finding in it a sense of neighborly support that makes her feel valued while strengthening her connection to the community.

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Next player up

A man poses next to a basketball hoop in front of his garage.

Joe Zeni, 70, is using his local Buy Nothing group on Facebook to give away a basketball hoop he used with his son when he was little.

(Dania Maxwell/For The Times)

Joe Zeni first offered a basketball hoop on Buy Nothing in 2023, where it remains unclaimed.

“I’m giving away a Huffy basketball freestanding hoop because it’s just taking up space. We used to play horse and shoot baskets together. My son is now 35, he doesn’t live here anymore.”

— Joe Zeni, 70, uses Buy Nothing often to give items away, believing many of the things he no longer needs still have purpose.

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Armani Goes Back to the Archive

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Armani Goes Back to the Archive

In the year since his death, there has been no hard pivot at Armani. The shadow of the founder has stayed in place over the Milan HQ, where the brand seems happy to leave it. Armani is not just plumbing the past for continued inspiration, it’s reselling it.

Today, Giorgio Armani is announcing Archivio, a grouping of 13 men’s and women’s looks, plucked from the brand’s back catalog and remade for today. (And, yes, at today’s prices.) There’s a jacket in pinstriped alpaca of 1979 vintage; a buttery one-and-a-half breasted jacket with a maitre d’s flair that first appeared in 1987; and an unstructured silk-linen suit that will activate ’90s flashbacks for die-hard Armani clients and those who want to capture that era’s nostalgia. The advertising campaign was shot and styled by Eli Russell Linnetz, who has his own label, ERL, but always seems to be the first call brands make when they want sultry photos with the aura of Details magazine circa 1995. (He did a similar thing for Guess recently.)

Linnetz’s images are a reminder of how Armani’s work still reverberates decades later.

Archivio is also a canny recognition of what shoppers crave now. On the resale market, Armani wares are as coveted as can be. Every week it seems as if I get an email from Ndwc0, a British vintage store, announcing a new drop of meaty-shouldered ’90s Armani power suits. They sell for less than $500. At Sorbara’s in Brooklyn, you can buy a tan Giorgio Armani vest for $225.

That vintage-mad audience is in Armani’s sights: To introduce the collection, it’s staging an installation, opening today, at Giorgio Armani’s Milan boutique. It will feature the hosts of “Throwing Fits,” a New York-based podcast whose hosts wear vintage Armani button-ups and shout out stores like Sorbara’s.

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It’s prudent, if a bit disconnected. Part of the charm of old Armani is that it can be found on the cheap. I’m wearing a pair of vintage Giorgio Armani corduroys as I write this. I bought them for $76 on eBay. Archivio is reverent, but its prices, which range from $1,025 to $12,000, may scare off shoppers willing to do the searching themselves.

If you ask me, the next frontier of this archive fixation is that a brand — and a big one — will release a mountain of genuine vintage pieces. J. Crew and Banana Republic have tried this at a small scale, but a luxury house like Armani hasn’t gone there. Yet. Eventually, Armani (or a brand like it) is going to grab hold of the market that exists around its brand, but through which it gets no cut.


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