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The 'food' you see on-screen often isn't real food. Not so, in 'The Taste of Things'

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The 'food' you see on-screen often isn't real food. Not so, in 'The Taste of Things'

Eugénie (Juliette Binoche) and Dodin Bouffant (Benoît Magimel) love food (and one another) in The Taste of Things. Director Tran Anh Hung aimed for authenticity — from the menu to the movements in the kitchen — and enlisted three-star chef Pierre Gagnaire to help.

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Plenty of critics have warned: don’t see the new French movie The Taste of Things on an empty stomach. Juliette Binoche plays a longtime personal cook to a man who’s a gourmand. They share a passion for food – and for each other — but she refuses to marry him. Filled with gorgeous meals, the film celebrates food, and all the work and love that goes into making it.

When you see a delicious meal in a movie or an ad, chances are, it’s inedible. Food stylists have been known to substitute glue for milk, shaving foam for whipped cream, and coating meat with motor oil so it glistens.

Chef Pierre Gagnaire, who consulted on The Taste of Things, says the food images in the film are both “authentic” and “elegant.”

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All that was a big ‘Non’ for Vietnamese French director Tran Anh Hung.

He says he wanted “everything” in The Taste of Things “to be real,” from the raw ingredients to the menu to the way the cooks move in the kitchen.

Rather than go for “beauty shots,” Tran says he prefers “to see men and women at work doing their craft in the kitchen. And when this feeling is right, then everything will look beautiful. Not beautiful like a picture. It’s beautiful like something that is real.”

A 19th century taste test.

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A 19th century taste test.

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Easier said than done. Real food can’t always handle multiple takes. Plus Tran needed to show dishes at different stages of preparation. So he needed a lot of everything. For the classic French stew pot-au-feu “we needed 40 kilos of meat for the shooting.”

That’s almost 90 pounds.

He also had to find vegetables that looked like they were harvested in the 19th century. “They are not as beautiful as today,” he says, “They are not straight, you know, and they have a lot of spots on the skin.”

“In life we have two sources of sensuality. It’s love and food,” says Tran.

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“In life we have two sources of sensuality. It’s love and food,” says Tran.

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‘Crazy sensuality’

One of the must stunning creations in The Taste of Things is a seafood vol-au-vent, a large pastry shell filled with a thick sauce of crayfish and vegetables. The image of it being sliced for the guests is “absolute beauty” and “crazy sensuality,” says three-star chef Pierre Gagnaire who consulted on the film.

After doing extensive research into the the history of French cuisine and working with a historian, Tran enlisted Gagnaire to make sure the menu he’d come up with worked in real life.

“He found that some recipes are not good. So he changed it for me,” Tran remembers.

Gagnaire also cooked for Tran for five days so the director could study his movements in preparation for filming. Tran says watching Gagnaire move around the kitchen taught him that “simplicity is important and you don’t need to have the perfect gesture for this or that. You need only to, you know, to be very free … and improvise.”

In addition to consulting on The Taste of Things, chef Pierre Gagnaire also has a small part in the film.

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Gagnaire says the movie feels like a gift: “It’s an homage to my technique, to my creativity,” he says. The renowned chef agreed to take a small part in the film, the Prince of Eurasia’s culinary officier de bouche.

‘When I say cut, they always keep on eating’

Had the cuisine in the movie been doctored by a food stylist, it likely wouldn’t have been edible. Tran Anh Hung says The Taste of Things crew took home doggie bags for dinner and the actors, “When I say cut, they always keep on eating.”

It got to the point where they needed to shoot some scenes “unbuttoned” he laughs, “because there was no more room for the costume to enlarge them.”

“I didn’t want to have a food stylist on the movie because I wanted everything to be real,” says Tran.

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The Taste of Things does not have much dialogue. The action — and the intimacy — is in the kitchen. Binoche’s character is quiet and focused. She’s less interested in romance than she is in a creative, culinary partnership.

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Gagnaire says he relates. He started working in kitchens as a teenager and he didn’t like it. He was shy and reserved. But when he realized he had a special talent for the profession, it became his way to socialize.

“By feeding people and making them happy,” he says, “cooking helped me connect with society. And develop real relationships.”

The Taste of Things is the opposite of a big, super hero action movie. Gagnaire believes people need that right now.

“We’re bombarded with vulgarity and brutality,” he says, “When you leave this film, you feel calm … because instead of violence, there’s tenderness.”

For Tran, the pleasures of a good meal are essential. “In life we have two sources of sensuality. It’s love and food,” he says.

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The Taste of Things brings those two sources together in the kitchen.

This story was edited for broadcast and digital by Rose Friedman. The web story was produced by Beth Novey.

Lifestyle

Out of work and with 2 teens, this mom may lose food stamps under Trump’s changes

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Out of work and with 2 teens, this mom may lose food stamps under Trump’s changes

Mara is a single mother of two in Minnesota. She and her family have depended on SNAP benefits to make ends meet.

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Caroline Yang for NPR

Although Mara is unemployed, she is busier than ever.

When she is not taking care of her two children, Mara is at her desk applying for jobs. She is surveying her belongings to see what she can pawn off to buy toiletries. Or she is sifting through bills, calculating which ones can wait and which need to be paid right away.

Soon, Mara, a single mom in Minnesota, may have another task on her busy schedule: figuring out how to afford food for her and her family.

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That’s because of new work requirements for people receiving aid from the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program, also known as SNAP or food stamps.

“It would be so beyond hard” to lose SNAP benefits, Mara said. “Without SNAP, there’s no funds for food.” Mara asked for her last name to be withheld given the stigma tied to receiving government assistance. She is also worried that speaking publicly will affect her chances of getting a job.

Previously, SNAP recipients with children under 18 were exempt from work requirements mandating that recipients work, volunteer or participate in job training at least 80 hours a month. But now, under President Trump’s One Big Beautiful Bill Act, that exemption only applies to those with children under 14 — which is how old Mara’s youngest child turned in December.

Mara poses for a portrait at CareerForce, a resource for job seekers in Minnesota.

“It would be so beyond hard” to lose SNAP benefits, Mara said.

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The Trump administration has argued that the mission of the nation’s largest anti-hunger program has failed.

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“SNAP was intended to be temporary help for those who encounter tough times. Now, it’s become so bloated that it is leaving fewer resources for those who truly need help,” the White House said in a statement in June.

But policy experts say the SNAP changes do not fully take into account the unique challenges faced by single parents like Mara or the sluggish job market in many parts of the country. They argue that losing food assistance will only create more barriers for recipients struggling to find work.

The timeline for implementing the new SNAP policy varies based on state and county. In Mara’s home state of Minnesota, recipients who don’t qualify for an exemption or meet work requirements will be at risk of losing assistance as early as April 1. Others may have more months depending on when they next need to certify they are eligible for benefits.

Over 100 job applications

Mara imagined she would have a job by now.

It was August when she was let go from her part-time administrative assistant role due to her workplace restructuring. Since then, Mara estimates that she has applied for over 100 positions. She has also attended job fairs and taken free workshops on resume writing.

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She has been working since high school, she said, but “ I’ve never been out of work for more than one month, so it’s very difficult.”

Mara spends time working at the computer at CareerForce, a resource for job seekers in Minnesota, on March 4.

Mara spends time working at the computer at CareerForce, a resource for job seekers in Minnesota, on March 4.

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Although she misses her old job, Mara said it didn’t pay enough to support her and her kids, so she relied on SNAP benefits.

Many recipients are part of the low-wage labor market, where job security is often unpredictable and turnover tends to be high, according to Lauren Bauer, a researcher at the Brookings Institution who has studied SNAP extensively.

“SNAP is supposed to be there to help people smooth that and not let the bottom fall out when they experience job loss,” she said. “And this policy doesn’t account for that at all.”

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Mara’s lowest point came in November when the government shutdown led to disruptions in SNAP benefits. Not only was she searching for a new job, but she was constantly figuring out where to get her family’s next meal.

“I might be looking for food stuff during the day when I should have been looking for a job,” she said. “Then, I’m trying to make up that time in the evening after my kids go to bed.”

During the pause, Mara turned to food banks, which revealed other challenges. First, food pantries do not always provide enough for an adult and two growing teenagers, she said. Second, they often lack gluten-free foods, which is essential for her daughter who has celiac disease, an autoimmune disorder that causes digestive problems if gluten is consumed. Gluten-free products tend to be more expensive.

If Mara loses access to SNAP again because of the new work requirements, she fears another stretch of long days spent looking for the right food and enough to feed her family.

“I would be so reliant on looking for food shelves or food banks,” she said. “There would not be time to even live.”

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“We’re going to see increases in poverty. We’re going to see increases in food insecurity”

The Congressional Budget Office estimates that roughly 2.4 million people will lose food benefits in a typical month over the next decade as a result of the new SNAP requirements — including 300,000 parents like Mara with children 14 or older.

Gina Plata-Nino, the SNAP director at the nonprofit Food Research & Action Center, says many of the affected recipients will be single mothers who make up a majority of single parent households in the U.S. She added that the changes target a group that often lacks or struggles to afford a support system to help care for their children.

“How can they have a full-time job when they need to pick up their children [for] various activities?” she said. “And they are working — just not enough hours because they need to be there present for their children.”

Mara shops for groceries at a local discount grocery store.

Mara shops for groceries at a local discount grocery store.

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The new law also imposes work requirements on veterans, homeless people, young adults aging out of foster care, and able-bodied adults without dependents from ages 55 to 64.

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It also toughened the criteria for waiving work requirements for recipients in areas with high unemployment. Previously, there were multiple ways to determine a weak labor market and secure a waiver. Now, it only applies to places with an unemployment rate above 10%. (Alaska and Hawaii have a different measure.)

For those who fail to meet the work requirement, SNAP provides assistance for up to three months within a three-year span. But Bauer from the Brookings Institution argues that it is not enough and the impact of SNAP changes will be widespread.

“We’re going to see increases in poverty. We’re going to see increases in food insecurity. We’re going to see increasing strain on the charitable food sector,” she said.

Mara holds her favorite anchor ring, which carries the inscription, "God for me provide thee."

Mara holds her favorite anchor ring, which carries the inscription, “God for me provide thee.”

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As anxiety hangs over her head, Mara tries to put on a brave face for her children. She does not want them to worry, explaining that her recent struggles have reminded her how tough life can get as an adult.

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“I remind them it’s not their responsibility and they’re not accountable for me or for what’s happening,” she said. “I say, just know you get to be a kid.”

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‘TODAY’ Show Dylan Dreyer Says Savannah Guthrie Will Likely Return, Not Sure When

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‘TODAY’ Show Dylan Dreyer Says Savannah Guthrie Will Likely Return, Not Sure When

Dylan Dreyer
Savannah Will Likely Come Back … Just Not Sure When

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‘American Classic’ is a hidden gem that gets even better as it goes

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‘American Classic’ is a hidden gem that gets even better as it goes

Kevin Kline plays actor Richard Bean, and Laura Linney is his sister-in-law Kristen, in American Classic.

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American Classic is a hidden gem, in more ways than one. It’s hidden because it’s on MGM+, a stand-alone streaming service that, let’s face it, most people don’t have. But MGM+ is available without subscription for a seven-day free trial, on its website or through Prime Video and Roku. And you should find and watch American Classic, because it’s an absolutely charming and wonderful TV jewel.

Charming, in the way it brings small towns and ordinary people to life, as in Northern Exposure. Wonderful, in the way it reflects the joys of local theater productions, as in Slings & Arrows, and the American Playhouse production of Kurt Vonnegut’s Who Am I This Time?

The creators of American Classic are Michael Hoffman and Bob Martin. Martin co-wrote and co-created Slings & Arrows, so that comparison comes easily. And back in the early 1980s, Who Am I This Time? was about people who transformed onstage from ordinary citizens into extraordinary performers. It’s a conceit that works only if you have brilliant actors to bring it to life convincingly. That American Playhouse production had two young actors — Christopher Walken and Susan Sarandon — so yes, it worked. And American Classic, with its mix of veteran and young actors, does, too.

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American Classic begins with Kevin Kline, as Shakespearean actor Richard Bean, confronting a New York Times drama critic about his negative opening-night review of Richard’s King Lear. The next day, Richard’s agent, played by Tony Shalhoub, calls Richard in to tell him his tantrum was captured by cellphone and went viral, and that he has to lay low for a while.

Richard returns home to the small town of Millersburg, Pa., where his parents ran a local theater. Almost everyone we meet is a treasure. His father, who has bouts of dementia, is played by Len Cariou, who starred on Broadway in Sweeney Todd. Richard’s brother, Jon, is played by Jon Tenney of The Closer, and his wife, Kristen, is played by the great Laura Linney, from Ozark and John Adams.

Things get even more complicated because the old theater is now a dinner theater, filling its schedule with performances by touring regional companies. Its survival is at risk, so Richard decides to save the theater by mounting a new production of Thornton Wilder’s Our Town, casting the local small-town residents to play … local small-town residents.

Miranda, Richard’s college-bound niece, continues the family theatrical tradition — and Nell Verlaque, the young actress who plays her, has a breakout role here. She’s terrific — funny, touching, totally natural. And when she takes the stage as Emily in Our Town, she’s heart-wrenching. Playwright Wilder is served magnificently here — and so is William Shakespeare, whose works and words Kline tackles in more than one inspirational scene in this series.

I don’t want to reveal too much about the conflicts, and surprises, in American Classic, but please trust me: The more episodes you watch, the better it gets. The characters evolve, and go in unexpected directions and pairings. Kline’s Richard starts out thinking about only himself, but ends up just the opposite. And if, as Shakespeare wrote, the play’s the thing, the thing here is, the plays we see, and the soliloquies we hear, are spellbinding.

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And there’s plenty of fun to be had outside the classics in American Classic. The table reads are the most delightful since the ones in Only Murders in the Building. The dinner-table arguments are the most explosive since the ones in The Bear. Some scenes are take-your-breath-away dramatic. Others are infectiously silly, as when Richard works with a cast member forced upon him by the angel of this new Our Town production.

Take the effort to find, and watch, American Classic. It’ll remind you why, when it’s this good, it’s easy to love the theater. And television.

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