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The bow tie can set you free with tastefulness. But this is not a tasteful time

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(Mike Gallegos / For The Instances)

The Oscars is often an evening to have a good time vogue. It’s not typically an evening for vogue to be forgotten. And but, right here we’re. What will probably be remembered is Will Smith slapping one other grownup on dwell TV, not his “Wild Wild West”-adjacent three-piece go well with or the truth that he didn’t even trouble with a bow tie. This was an Oscars the place a second tailored for knowledgeable wrestling match in some way made the garments really feel inessential. Timothée Chalamet didn’t even put on a shirt! However after Chris Rock obtained clocked within the face even that feels form of irrelevant. There may be absolutely some that means to be present in the garments. Bow ties might sound conservative, however perhaps we may all stand to be a bit extra grounded proper now.

Enable me to revise an previous joke. L.A. has two seasons: pilot season and bow-tie season. Right here, now we have to decorate up, typically in opposition to our will, to just accept the plaudits and affection that include plain inventive success. Perhaps not everybody feels comfy suiting up and stepping out, nevertheless it’s additionally the accepted pinnacle {of professional} life within the metropolis. Bow-tie season lasts for a couple of months and quickly alters the visible language of vogue within the metropolis. Angelenos are identified for our informal, laid-back strategy to dressing, however throughout bow-tie season formal apparel — made seen by numerous awards occasions, which devour the social calendars of the leisure business — turns into the home model of the town. Instantly, L.A. is the style capital of the world. Women and men are compelled to cobble collectively outfits for lunches, brunches, dinners and cocktail hours. The most important occasion of all of them is, after all, the Oscars.

The Academy Awards telecast could be single-handedly conserving the bow tie related. Even Tucker Carlson stopped carrying them. However on the Oscars, the bow tie is de rigueur. It’s an indelible a part of the menswear tableau of Hollywood’s greatest night time. You get extra consideration for not carrying one than carrying one, whereas nearly every other social state of affairs the place one may put on a bow tie — say a modern-day wedding ceremony in L.A., the place contradictory phrases like “seashore formal” are sincerely utilized gown codes — would mark you as some form of unrepentant dweeb.

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Andrew Garfield, who has torn up awards season in one of the simplest ways potential, rocked a purple Saint Laurent tux with a large black bow tie that feels something however conventional. Kodi Smit-McPhee took my breath away in a child blue Bottega Veneta, substituting a tie with a tasteful chain round his neck. Final yr, Lakeith Stanfield eviscerated everybody else on the crimson carpet by eschewing the tux altogether and rocking a customized remix of a Saint Laurent ladies’s jumpsuit. His look was a gender-fluid revelation; a shock of ’70s sleaze within the midst of COVID-era grimness. Lakeith is all the time going to interrupt down our preconceived notions of methods to gown for this stuff, and that vibe is spreading. Chalamet is actually not carrying a shirt, so clearly all bets are off and something goes. Which suggests the bow tie is just going to undergo from dudes attempting to push the envelope to catch up. You virtually really feel like somebody goes to indicate up subsequent yr not carrying pants simply to get clout. In that world, the bow tie comes off as form of tedious.

However the bow tie doesn’t must be stuffy. It doesn’t must really feel constricting. Bow ties are notoriously inconceivable to tie for many males, however a loosely utilized one can look rakish and relaxed. A velvet bow tie can come off as sensual and bohemian. Bigger bow ties indicate a boldness that lots of males keep away from. There are numerous examples all through Oscar historical past which have proven how the bow tie can set you free.

The best to ever do it’s our quintessential film star and as near a metropolis mascot as we’ve obtained: Jack Nicholson. Jack’s been going to the Oscars for round six a long time and outlined the louche cool of the time. His monochrome 1971 Oscars look — a blue velvet blazer and matching bow tie — is timeless. One may say that after all Jack Nicholson seemed cool in a bow tie. Some persons are naturally cool. Nevertheless it actually isn’t simply who’s contained in the go well with that issues. It’s additionally how one wears that go well with and with what.

Take, for instance, Jack’s take a look at the 1975 Oscars. That yr, he was nominated for lead actor for his function as Jake Gittes in “Chinatown.” He misplaced that night time, however as is so typically the case, we bear in mind the match extra. His vibe was thrilling as a result of he blended the standard bow-tie look with a beret, which isn’t one thing you see all that always on a crimson carpet. You possibly can see the throughline from Jack’s beret to Mahershala Ali’s beanie (and no bow tie) in 2019. Generally, you need to freak it a little bit bit. After all, ultimately Jack makes the sun shades indoors look a everlasting fixture of his steez, which is completely a freak transfer par excellence.

However what actually makes a bow-tie second for a person on the Oscars is measurement. As they are saying, it does matter. Considered one of my all-time favourite Oscars seems is Francis Ford Coppola at that exact same 1975 Oscars the place Jack wore the beret. His bow tie is large. It lies floppily on his shirt in a approach that just about appears haphazard. The ’70s was a second to interrupt down, tweak and loosen up. It’s a great distance from the polished and glossy 2010s look of somebody like John Legend on the 2014 Oscars. And as Oscars seems turned extra conservative within the post-“Mad Males,” midcentury nostalgia period, the bow ties obtained smaller. Take a look at Eddie Redmayne in 2012. The tastefulness of all of it is sort of an excessive amount of to bear.

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However this isn’t a tasteful time. This isn’t a second to experience conformity. Even Denzel Washington, a mode icon of Oscars a long time previous, averted the bow tie. It is a second for standing out, pushing boundaries and making statements that can final a lifetime. Ideally with out hitting somebody within the face.

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'The Liquid Eye of a Moon' is a Nigerian coming-of-age story

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'The Liquid Eye of a Moon' is a Nigerian coming-of-age story

Uchenna Awoke’s debut novel The Liquid Eye of a Moon is, on the surface, 15-year-old Dimpka’s coming of age story in the rural Nigerian village of Oregwu. But Dimpka’s story is bigger than this — as it takes place within the specific context of what Awoke calls “human tabooing.”

The novel delves into life in an Igbo family that is considered “unclean” because they fall on the lowest rung of the traditional Igbo caste system. There are varying explanations or “justifications” for these harsh social divisions, including a specific type of ancestor worship. One practice is to dedicate a child to an ancestor, thereby “enslaving” the child to that forebear.

Dimpka’s devotion to his deceased aunt may reflect this spirituality. He is a dreamer, and his most important desire is to build a proper tomb for his aunt Okike, who died by drowning. Although his memory is hazy, Dimpka knows this aunt was extremely close to him. It is not until the end of the book that we learn the details of her death, disclosing why Dimpka may be so driven to give her a proper burial.

This novel also takes place against a history of horrific ethnic cleansing. To vastly oversimplify: The Nigerian government undertook a 1966 pogrom that killed thousands of Igbo people. The Igbos rose up to declare the independent republic of Biafra. The Biafran war for liberation, often called the Nigerian civil war, evoked headlines around the world. It ended in 1970 with the crushing defeat of the nascent Biafran republic. Accounts of the Biafran war have been memorialized in Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s searing novel, Half of a Yellow Sun, Chinua Achebe’s iconic book, There Was a Country, Louis Chude-Sokei’s terrific memoir, Floating in a Most Peculiar Way, and elsewhere.

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Awoke presumes the reader’s knowledge of this complex background. He declines to translate Igbo terms, sharpening his message that Igbo cultural and political history form the novel’s warp and weft.

Dimpka carries the weight of being the eldest son in his family. He narrates his story in the first person. His maturation is marked by increasing awareness of caste differences, and the grave disappointments and dangers they engender. His closest friend, Eke, cannot bring Dimpka to his home due to social divisions. But the boys’ friendship transcends these taboos, and they explore their village together and share adventures until fate intervenes.

Dimpka’s father fought for Biafran independence but remains in the lowest class, and, as such, is unfairly passed over to be village elder. Dimpka’s parents may have anticipated this injustice, but it wounds the family, especially Dimpka.

Dimpka experiences sharp divisions within his own family as well. His younger brother Machebe taunts him with his self-discipline and consequent generosity and success.

Their father follows a traditional Igbo religious practice that invokes punishing gods, including Ezenwanyi, a commanding queen. Awoke intersperses these ritual stories throughout the book, casting a shadow across Dimpka’s activities.

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By contrast, Dimpka’s mother is Pentecostal, and at pains to ensure her children’s Christian salvation.

How can Dimpka contain these divisions and move forward in his life? Throughout his teens and early 20s he tries multiple schemes to lift himself up in society and earn enough to build his aunt’s tomb and bring his family out of poverty. He proceeds as a hopeful innocent, while the reader fears for him. He follows paths that result in his being defrauded, shamed, and beaten down physically and emotionally. His struggles lead to a growing sense of frustration and pessimism. We come to understand that his choices are painfully constricted by the caste system into which he was born.

The moon in the title figures prominently in many scenes. When Dimpka finally succeeds in building his aunt’s tomb, he lies on it beside her, and looks “into the big liquid eye of a moon.” “Liquid” in the title brings to mind the fluidity of life and the lack of control humans have over their fate.

My reading of this novel would have been greatly enhanced by a clearer understanding of Igbo culture and history. Nevertheless, I enjoyed being immersed in Dimpka’s life, the tastes and smells of his mother’s cooking, the description of his fellow villagers, and his travels to Lagos and elsewhere to improve his lot. We feel the dust in the streets and engage in the activity at the local market. These setting and atmospherics help illustrate the suffering imposed on members of Dimpka’s caste.

Awoke’s writing is impressive; his metaphors are refreshing and vivid. Sentences like “Eke lights his crackling bush-fire laughter,” make Dimpka’s friend Eke come alive. Dimpka gives this specific description of his brother Machebe: “Imagine a tiger incarnate with a hard orange-brown stare.”

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The book ends on an affirmative, though abrupt, note, with insufficient lead up to its conclusion. If such an ending suggests a novelist new to his craft, the book itself suggests a writer of great promise. Dimpka’s meandering story carries a vital humanitarian message. I look forward to reading more of Uchenna Awoke’s work.

 

Martha Anne Toll is a D.C.-based writer and reviewer. Her debut novel, Three Muses, won the Petrichor Prize for Finely Crafted Fiction and was shortlisted for the Gotham Book Prize. Her second novel, Duet for One, is due out May 2025.

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Bindi blunder by US celebrity website mistaking Tasmania for Tanzania

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Bindi blunder by US celebrity website mistaking Tasmania for Tanzania

Tasmania has had many tourism slogans over the years from ‘Come down for air’ to ‘Go behind the scenery’, but perhaps it should consider ‘not to be confused with Tanzania’.

A major United States celebrity news publication has mistaken Australia’s island state for the East African country after the world-famous Irwin family visited Cradle Mountain, with Bindi Irwin posting images from her family’s trip on her Instagram, which has a following of 5.7 million people.

She made the trip to the Tasmanian national park with her husband Chandler, daughter Grace, brother Robert and mother Terri.

Some of the photos from the Irwin family holiday, which was not in Tanzania.(Instagram: Bindi Irwin)

Attracting global attention, it was picked up by People which touts itself as the number one source for the “most trustworthy celebrity news”.

It published a story about the trip, noting “Bindi was joined by her husband, daughter, mother and brother for the trip to the East African country”.

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People magazine web story about Bindi Irwin.

People’s headline about the Irwin family holiday, which was in Tasmania — not in Tanzania.(People magazine)

“On Saturday, June 22, the Australian TV personality, 25, shared a carousel of photos on Instagram from a family vacation in the East African country, tagging the resort where they stayed, Cradle Mountain Lodge, in the last photo.”

The People article was also posted to its 9.7 million followers on Facebook.

The wildlife loving family are dressed in puffer jackets in front of the iconic Dove Lake, and several social media followers aptly pointed out the current temperature in Tanzania was 29 degrees.

One person wrote “I once had a map of Australia that labelled Tasmania as Tanzania. A lot of people are mistaking the two and still getting paid”.

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Another asked: “Are they on top of Mt Kilimanjaro with a toddler?!?”

Celebrity reach

Those in the tourism business said the gaffe wasn’t all bad news for Tasmania.

Amy Hills from the Tourism Industry Council of Tasmania said it would still draw attention to Cradle Mountain as a destination.

“While it appears this an unfortunate mistake, as clearly Tasmania is a long way from Tanzania, in an odd way it gives us an ability to create even more buzz about our iconic Cradle Mountain,” Ms Hills said.

“When influencers like Bindi Irwin share snapshots of our island, especially while enjoying it with friends and family, it has great reach and potential impact.

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“Hopefully those reading the article will visit Bindi’s actual post and see those snow-capped mountains and the iconic cradle landscape, sparking them to investigate their own trip to Tassie, during the winter months.”

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Associate professor Anne Hardy from the University of Tasmania’s school of social sciences said influencers and celebrities had a huge impact on people’s interest in places.

“Millions and millions will see their post, so they have a massive impact,” she said.

She pointed to a summer visit to Cradle Mountain by actor Nicole Kidman.

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“What we can see is when you have an influencers in a particular area, when people go to that area because of the influencer, they often try and mimic what the influencer has done,” she said.

“It has a profound impact on where people go and what experiences they seek.”

Opportunity beckons

Dr Hardy said the Tanzania mix-up could be a problem if people were seeking out an experience they couldn’t find.

“From Tasmania’s perspective there’s a risk they’ll lose tourists to Tanzania, but I think most people are smart enough to work it out provided there’s not a Cradle Mountain over in Tanzania,” she said.

She said Tasmania and Tanzania could work together like a twin-city arrangement.

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“They could have a lost traveller agency if you’ve got travellers over in Tanzania seeking wombats?”

 A social media post promoting an article about Bindi Irwin's family holiday

People’s social media post about the Irwin family holiday, which was not in Tanzania, as has already been pointed out.(Supplied)

Dr Hardy said Tourism Tasmania could turn it into a new campaign.

“Tourism Tasmania is doing some really quirky and humorous marketing at the moment, so this story probably provides them with an opportunity,” she said.

The agency recently unveiled its ‘Odd Jobs campaign’ where it invites tourists to apply for positions to organise oysters and walk wombats.

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“Tourism Tasmania has become synonymous with super quirky marketing, so for me this provides them with another little opportunity and they can turn it around for the state,” she said.

“We’ve always been known as quirky and unusual and this just plays into our brand strength.”

Cradle Mountain in winter.

Cradle Mountain, not in Tanzania.(Deborah Hunter Photography)

Dr Hardy said in all seriousness, the Tasmanian tourism industry was having a more difficult time than usual, with this year’s Dark Mofo festival — a large drawcard in winter — scaled down.

“There hasn’t been as many visitors around, so any quirky, fun stories around the state from people like Bindi will help those operators who would really like more business at this time of the year,” she said.

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“The power of word of mouth and the power of an influencers is super important when people are making decisions on where to do.”

Tourists and sightseers at a coastal lookout.

Tourists take in the view of Wineglass Bay, also not in Tanzania.(Supplied: Tasmania Parks and Wildlife Service)

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Tasmania’s Deputy Premier Michael Ferguson said he was “sorry People magazine haven’t recently been to Tasmania like the Irwins have, we’re so pleased for their time here in our state”.

“I think People magazine might like to run a second column about how good it is here in Tassie, the best island on earth.”

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Mr Ferguson said he didn’t think it would be damaging for Tasmania’s brand.

“The interest is welcome in the sense that we get the same kind of questions from our friends in America who occasionally think the Tasmanian Devil is from a little island off Africa and it only stimulates conversation and makes people look into the truth of the matter and fall in love with our state.”

Not the first time

Confusion about Tasmania and Tanzania seems common place, and the state’s entry in online encyclopedia Wikipedia is quick to clear up the state is ‘not to be confused with Tanzania’.

Posted , updated 

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The Olsen Twins Go to the Beach

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The Olsen Twins Go to the Beach

There was a Cybertruck parked on Main Street in East Hampton, outside the Altuzarra store. It was a Sunday afternoon in June, and traffic stalled for a moment. Even the rich are not immune to rubbernecking a brutalist behemoth.

The monster truck marked the end of an avenue of monograms — the island’s main luxury shopping drag, with $850 raffia handbags and $15,000 decorative surfboards. You know their names: Louis Vuitton, Loewe, Lululemon.

Two and a half miles down this same street, however, quaintness emerged. East Hampton turned into Amagansett, and that flashy boutique strip became a town square with white wood-paneled cottages. There was a shoe store called Brunch, a children’s clothing chain called Pink Chicken, a jewelry and gift shop called Love Adorned. A Cybertruck here would read as a declaration of war.

It was near these cottages that the Row, a brand founded in 2006 by Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen, quietly opened a store on Memorial Day weekend.

Quietly is how the Row tends to operate. Not only in its clothing — often described as “quiet luxury,” a term used to describe very expensive basics — but also in its communication.

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The founders rarely give interviews, advertise or otherwise promote their line. While the Row did announce its Amagansett opening on Instagram, that account is more outwardly devoted to sharing modern art than to moving product. In February, the brand caused a stir at Paris Fashion Week by asking its runway show attendees to “refrain from capturing or sharing any content during your experience” — which is, for many, the primary reason for attending a fashion show. The audience was encouraged to write down thoughts instead.

Somehow this stance works. In an industry overrun by influencers, the Row’s silence is stark. Monasticism is chic. There is an impression of exclusivity and taste, buoyed by the extreme prices. One of the Row’s most popular items, the Margaux bag, ranges in price from $3,490 to $6,810, depending on size and material. It is timeless and ladylike, the kind of purse that might remind Kendall Jenner of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis.

The Row’s stores also have a reputation for being intimidating at times, even among seasoned high-end shoppers.

One loyal Row customer told me she felt like “peasantry” in the Los Angeles store, which houses an untouchable swimming pool. At the store in Manhattan — a townhouse with a limestone spiral staircase — “there is one guy who works there that all my friends are afraid of, who radiates a very ‘you can’t sit here’ vibe,” said Jess Graves, the writer of a shopping newsletter called The Love List, “even to girls I know who walk in wearing the brand head to toe.”

The Amagansett shop is different. It operates out of a house with roots in the 19th century, formerly occupied by Tiina the Store, the Hamptons’ Gap for billionaires. (Tiina stocked the Row.)

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It has a porch and a screen door and a woven beige carpet. The fitting rooms are harshly lit behind denim patchwork curtains. (By contrast, the spacious wood-floored dressing rooms at the Upper East Side store, where I recently tried on a $1,550 white cotton poplin tent dress that made me look, tragically, like a hospital patient, have soft lighting and softer robes.)

There is no statement artwork in Amagansett, unlike the London store, where an oval light installation by James Turrell greets visitors at the entrance. The vintage furniture is noteworthy — there’s a black chaise shaped like a person from the 1970s by Olivier Mourgue Bouloum and a white painted wooden lounge chair from the 1930s by Robert Mallet-Stevens. But the décor, with its Asian and African influences, is not the point.

The point of the store is the large selection of jewelry, home wares, snacks and skin care by more than 20 brands and artisans that are not the Row. Shampoo from Florence. Beaded necklaces from Greece. A mother-of-pearl caviar set. A bronze lighter carved to resemble tree bark. A packet of dried mango and a jar of raw almonds. Vintage glass candlesticks that can be purchased only in a set of a dozen for $16,000.

There are racks of ready-to-wear clothes made by the Row, of course, the selection tailored to this beach town: bike shorts ($1,050), denim shirts (also $1,050), ribbed tank tops ($670), sleeveless silk maxi-dresses ($1,890). Ms. Graves bought herself a raffia bag here earlier in the season. (“It felt very appropriate while I’m out here this summer,” she said.)

But the Row confirmed that the Amagansett store is its first attempt at a “local” store concept. What this presumably means is a space that is more relaxed, filled with objects that complement the brand’s vision of itself, staffed by sales associates who do not scare people away but warmly help shoppers track down sold-out jelly flats. Not that the Row’s fans are easily scared away: Even those who are intimidated don’t stay away for long, these masochists for cream-colored cashmere.

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In retrospect, the popular jelly shoes, along with the beach towels that models wore as scarves on the Row’s runway in September, may have been a sign that the brand was loosening up — that brightness and humor were coming to this austere world. (Its most recent look book showed a silky camisole dress layered over pants, Y2K-style.)

A British client of the Row visiting the Amagansett store marveled at the vibe shift. Where was the icy indifference? “I don’t think it would fly with the audience here,” she said.

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