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One restaurant has a way to fight food waste: Making food out of 'trash'

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One restaurant has a way to fight food waste: Making food out of 'trash'

Kayla Abe (pictured here) and her partner, chef David Murphy, co-founded Shuggie’s Trash Pie in 2022, in part to address the global problem of food waste. According to the food waste reduction nonprofit ReFED, 38% of the U.S. food supply goes uneaten.

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Climate change is affecting our food, and our food is affecting the climate. NPR is dedicating a week to stories and conversations about the search for solutions.

No one, except maybe Sesame Street’s Oscar the Grouch, wants to consume food that most people think of as garbage.

But if everyone ate fare that might otherwise be thrown out — say, weird animal parts or milk that’s close to its sell-by date — we’d significantly reduce the impacts of human-caused climate change.

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“Addressing food waste turns out to be one of the biggest climate solutions of them all,” said climate scientist Jonathan Foley, who serves as executive director of the climate solutions think tank Project Drawdown.

According to the food waste reduction nonprofit ReFED, 38% of the U.S. food supply goes uneaten.

All of the processes involved in making food, from clearing land and raising cattle to packaging and cooking ingredients, contribute to one-third of the world’s planet-warming pollution. The food waste that ends up rotting in landfills is particularly problematic.

“It causes methane to go into the atmosphere as well, and that’s a really potent greenhouse gas,” Foley said.

Methane traps more heat than carbon dioxide, which causes global warming. An estimated 60% of methane emissions are human-caused and come largely from agriculture, fossil fuels and food waste decomposing in landfills.

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Restaurants are in an optimal position to help solve this problem.

David Murphy, chef and co-owner of Shuggie's Trash Pie in San Francisco, sets a dish down for server during dinner.

David Murphy, chef and co-owner of Shuggie’s Trash Pie in San Francisco, a restaurant that focuses on imperfect and up-cycled ingredients, previously worked in high-end restaurants. “We always demanded the best. The most perfect little Brussels sprout,” he says.

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According to research from the U.S. Department of Agriculture, people are spending more on eating out in this country than they are at home, and the restaurant industry was responsible for almost 10 million tons of leftover food in 2022, according to 2022 data from ReFED.

Restaurants can make practical tweaks, like reducing or customizing portion sizes. “That’s a big one,” said Roni Neff, an associate professor at the Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health who studies food systems and waste. “Seventy percent of the food that’s wasted in restaurants is happening after it’s served to people — on their plates.”

Neff said restaurants can also streamline their ordering processes so surplus food isn’t sitting around. And then there are the chefs.

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“They can help to shape people’s views, expand our ideas of what’s good food. And they can also shift behaviors in more subtle ways,” he said.

Shuggie's co-owners David Murphy and Kayla Abe met at a farmers market in downtown San Francisco. They were united in their desire to help local farmers who were having trouble selling their extra produce. Pictured at right, Abe and Murphy’s dog, Beef.

Shuggie’s co-owners David Murphy and Kayla Abe met at a farmers market in downtown San Francisco. They were united in their desire to help local farmers who were having trouble selling their extra produce. Pictured at right, Abe and Murphy’s dog, Beef.

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That’s where restaurants like Shuggie’s Trash Pie come in.

Founded by chef David Murphy and his partner, Kayla Abe, in 2022, the San Francisco “climate solutions restaurant” works to get diners comfortable with imperfect ingredients usually discarded by the food system. According to Abe, Shuggie’s has saved 41,000 pounds of food waste from the trash can in the roughly 2 1/2 years since it opened.

“Our big goal is to change the way America’s eating,” said Abe. “And bring the idea to the mainstream that eating trash is cool.”

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Two of the many dishes, made with imperfect ingredients usually discarded by the food system, served at Murphy and Abe's restaurant.

Shuggie’s menu features dishes made from imperfect and surplus ingredients — often sourced from local farmers who have too much of a particular produce to sell, or a produce that is past its prime. “I was constantly talking to them about their issues,” says Abe of her conversations with farmers. “And food waste was a recurring one.”

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Like a few other sustainability-focused restaurants and chains in the U.S. (e.g. Emmer & Rye Hospitality Group in Austin and San Antonio, Texas, and Lighthouse in Brooklyn, New York) Shuggie’s sources food that local producers cannot sell because there’s a surplus, it looks irregular, or it’s past its prime.

“We do not dumpster dive,” said Murphy. “That is not something that we do.”

Shuggie's co-owner Kayla Abe gets ready for closing time.

Shuggie’s co-owner Kayla Abe gets ready for closing time. Before co-founding Shuggie’s with partner David Murphy in 2022, Kayla Abe worked for the organization that runs the farmers market at San Francisco’s Ferry Building. “The more we can grow this movement, we can actually start to make bigger change,” she says of advocating for food waste reduction as a restaurateur.

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Instead, Murphy and Abe have built strong relationships with local produce farmers, as well as fish and meat distributors.

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“To look at the ugly food or the imperfect food, that it doesn’t have to be the best of everything, is a relatively new way for people to look at their food,” said Jordan Bow, the founder of the distributor Royal Hawaiian Seafood, and Shuggie’s main seafood source for oft-discarded fish parts like halibut cheeks and various types of bycatch. “I’m counting on the chefs to be creative and not just do what everybody else does.”

It’s going to take many more restaurants doing this work, as well as a broader cultural change among customers, to really make a dent in the massive food waste problem. That’s true both for eating out and eating at home. And if that shift happens, it could mean less food waste in landfills and less planet-warming pollution, which makes reducing food waste a huge climate solution.

After closing for the night, Abe and Murphy, along with their dog Beef, sit down for a meal.

Abe and Murphy work long hours at Shuggie’s. Prepping imperfect ingredients to restaurant standards creates additional work, and margins are tight. It can be challenging to persuade consumers to pay restaurant prices for what they perceive as waste. After closing for the night, Abe and Murphy, along with their dog Beef, sit down for a meal.

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There are simple ways to use leftover food in your refrigerator. To help you get started, NPR asked Shuggie’s chef Murphy to share some ideas. Below you’ll find three of his creative yet simple recipes that make use of commonly leftover items.

Carrot Top Chimichurri

Chef’s note: “This sauce is the base for so many of our dishes. For example, it gets incorporated into a pesto after we add cheese and nuts to it.”

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Ingredients

2 cups carrot tops or beet tops, or wilting fridge greens
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons vinegar (apple cider preferably)
1 cup extra virgin olive oil or grapeseed oil
1½ tablespoons chili flakes
salt, to taste

Method

In a blender, mix all the ingredients together on high for 30 seconds or until all the leaves have been incorporated well.

Season with salt.

So good you’ll want to use this chimi on everything!

Chef David Murphy's Carrot Top Chimichurri sauce, showcased here on Shuggie's Pizza Puffs.

Chef David Murphy’s Carrot Top Chimichurri sauce, showcased here on Shuggie’s Pizza Puffs.

Kayla Abe

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Shuggie’s Dream Beans

Chef’s note:Use this wholesome bean dish as a dumpster for all sorts of leftovers sitting in the fridge. I’ve added squid, octopus, numerous different veggies, tired greens, fennel … anything!”

Ingredients

3 cups great northern beans, soaked, cooked in a flavorful vegetable stock. (You can sub with cannellini, gigante, or your favorite soup bean.)
½ cup chopped garlic
½ cup sundried tomatoes in oil, chopped
1 tin Spanish anchovies in oil
1 cup herb stems, chopped
4 cups tired greens (kale, collards, arugula, or any other thing left in the crisper), chopped into 1-inch pieces
1 stick dry cured Spanish chorizo, chopped into ⅛-inch cubes
4 quarts flavorful vegetable or chicken stock
3 tablespoons smoked paprika
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons black pepper
1 large yellow onion, medium dice

Method

Cook beans until tender, strain.

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In another pot with a bit of grapeseed oil in the pan, cook all veggies and chorizo, deglaze with stock, add dry spices, anchovy and sundried tomato.

Add salt to taste.

Ladle into bowls, top with croutons made from day old bread, and add carrot top chimi!

Shuggie's Dream Beans

Shuggie’s Dream Beans

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Kayla Abe

Ricotta Fluff

Chef’s note: “Throw this creamy topping on waffles, or insert it in place of mozzarella on your favorite pizza … super sexy!”

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Ingredients

1 gallon milk (close to or even past its expiration date!)
¼ cup white vinegar
2 cups heavy cream
Salt to taste
Honey or other sweetener of your choice

Method

Whip heavy cream to soft peaks.

Heat milk to a simmer over low heat.

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Pour in vinegar, stir gently, then strain.

Let curds cool.

Fold in heavy cream and season with salt.

Slather the mixture on toasted bread with olive oil.

Sweeten to taste.

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Ricotta Fluff sits atop Shuggie's Garlic Knots, with a dash of Carrot Top Chimi. The fluff can also be used in desserts.

Ricotta Fluff sits atop Shuggie’s Garlic Knots, with a dash of Carrot Top Chimi. The fluff can also be used in desserts.

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Audio and digital stories edited by Jennifer Vanasco and Sadie Babits. Audio story mixed by Isabella Gomez-Sarmiento.

Lifestyle

Hungarian filmmaker Béla Tarr — known for bleak, existential movies — has died

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Hungarian filmmaker Béla Tarr — known for bleak, existential movies — has died

Hungarian director Béla Tarr at the Berlin International Film Festival in 2011.

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Béla Tarr, the Hungarian arthouse director best known for his bleak, existential and challenging films, including Sátántangó and Werckmeister Harmonies, has died at the age of 70. The Hungarian Filmmakers’ Association shared a statement on Tuesday announcing Tarr’s passing after a serious illness, but did not specify further details.

Tarr was born in communist-era Hungary in 1955 and made his filmmaking debut in 1979 with Family Nest, the first of nine feature films that would culminate in his 2011 film The Turin Horse. Damnation, released in 1988 at the Berlin International Film Festival, was his first film to draw global acclaim, and launched Tarr from a little-known director of social dramas to a fixture on the international film festival circuit.

Tarr’s reputation for films tinged with misery and hard-heartedness, distinguished by black-and-white cinematography and unusually long sequences, only grew throughout the 1990s and 2000s, particularly after his 1994 film Sátántangó. The epic drama, following a Hungarian village facing the fallout of communism, is best known for its length, clocking in at seven-and-a-half hours.

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Based on the novel by Hungarian writer László Krasznahorkai, who won the Nobel Prize in Literature last year and frequently collaborated with Tarr, the film became a touchstone for the “slow cinema” movement, with Tarr joining the ranks of directors such as Andrei Tarkovsky, Chantal Akerman and Theo Angelopoulos. Writer and critic Susan Sontag hailed Sátántangó as “devastating, enthralling for every minute of its seven hours.”

Tarr’s next breakthrough came in 2000 with his film Werckmeister Harmonies, the first of three movies co-directed by his partner, the editor Ágnes Hranitzky. Another loose adaptation of a Krasznahorkai novel, the film depicts the strange arrival of a circus in a small town in Hungary. With only 39 shots making up the film’s two-and-a-half-hour runtime, Tarr’s penchant for long takes was on full display.

Like Sátántangó, it was a major success with both critics and the arthouse crowd. Both films popularized Tarr’s style and drew the admiration of independent directors such as Jim Jarmusch and Gus Van Sant, the latter of which cited Tarr as a direct influence on his films: “They get so much closer to the real rhythms of life that it is like seeing the birth of a new cinema. He is one of the few genuinely visionary filmmakers.”

The actress Tilda Swinton is another admirer of Tarr’s, and starred in the filmmaker’s 2007 film The Man from London. At the premiere, Tarr announced that his next film would be his last. That 2011 film, The Turin Horse, was typically bleak but with an apocalyptic twist, following a man and his daughter as they face the end of the world. The film won the Grand Jury Prize at the Berlin International Film Festival.

After the release of The Turin Horse, Tarr opened an international film program in 2013 called film.factory as part of the Sarajevo Film Academy. He led and taught in the school for four years, inviting various filmmakers and actors to teach workshops and mentor students, including Swinton, Van Sant, Jarmusch, Juliette Binoche and Gael García Bernal.

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In the last years of his life, he worked on a number of artistic projects, including an exhibition at a film museum in Amsterdam. He remained politically outspoken throughout his life, condemning the rise of nationalism and criticizing the government of Hungarian leader Viktor Orbán.

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Epic stretch of SoCal rainfall muddies roads, spurs beach advisories. When will it end?

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Epic stretch of SoCal rainfall muddies roads, spurs beach advisories. When will it end?

California’s wet winter continued Sunday, with the heaviest rain occurring into the evening, and more precipitation forecast for Monday before tapering off on Tuesday, according to the National Weather Service.

A flood advisory was in effect for most of Los Angeles County until 10 p.m.

Los Angeles and Ventura counties’ coastal and valley regions could receive roughly half an inch to an inch more rain, with mountain areas getting one to two additional inches Sunday, officials said. The next two days will be lighter, said Robbie Munroe, a meteorologist at the weather service office in Oxnard.

Rains in Southern California have broken records this season, with some areas approaching average rain totals for an entire season. As of Sunday morning, the region had seen nearly 14 inches of rain since Oct. 1, more than three times the average of 4 inches for this time of year. An average rain season, which goes from July 1 to June 30, is 14.25 inches, officials said.

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“There’s the potential that we’ll already meet our average rainfall for the entire 12-month period by later today if we end up getting half an inch or more of rain,” Munroe added.

The wet weather prompted multiple road closures over the weekend, including a 3.6-mile stretch of Topanga Canyon Boulevard between Pacific Coast Highway and Grand View Drive as well as State Route 33 between Fairview Road and Lockwood Valley Road in the Los Padres National Forest. The California Department of Transportation also closed all lanes along State Route 2 from 3.3 miles east of Newcomb’s Ranch to State Route 138 in Angeles National Forest.

Los Angeles County Department of Public Health officials say beachgoers should stay out of the water to avoid the higher bacteria levels brought on by rain.

After storms, especially near discharging storm drains, creeks and rivers, the water can be contaminated with E. coli, trash, chemicals and other public health hazards.

The advisory, which will be in effect until at least 4 p.m. Monday, could be extended if the rain continues.

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In Ventura County on Sunday, the 101 Freeway was reopened after lanes were closed due to flooding Saturday. But there was at least one spinout as well as a vehicle stuck in mud on the highway Sunday, according to the National Weather Service. The freeway was also closed Saturday in Santa Barbara County in both directions near Goleta due to debris flows but reopened Sunday, according to Caltrans.

Santa Barbara Airport reopened and all commercial flights and fixed-wing aircraft were cleared for normal operations Sunday morning. The airport had shut down and grounded all flights Saturday due to flooded runways.

In Orange County early Sunday afternoon, firefighters rescued a man clinging to a section of a tunnel in cold, fast-moving water in a storm channel at Bolsa Avenue and Goldenwest Street in Westminster, according to fire officials.

A swift-water rescue team deployed a helicopter, lowered inflated firehoses and positioned an aerial ladder to allow responders to secure the man and bring him to safety before transporting him to a hospital for evaluation.

Heavy rains continued to batter Southern California mountain areas. Wrightwood in San Bernardino County — slammed recently with mud and debris — was closed Sunday except to residents as heavy equipment was brought in to clear mud and debris from roadways, the news-gathering organization OnScene reported.

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After canceling live racing on New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day due to heavy showers, Santa Anita Park also called off events Saturday and Sunday.

After several atmospheric river systems have come through, familiar conditions are set to return to the region later this week.

“We’ll get a good break from the rain and it’ll let things dry out a little bit, and we may even be looking at Santa Ana conditions as we head into next weekend,” Munroe said. The weather will likely be “mostly sunny” and breezy in the valleys and mountains.

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‘Stranger Things’ is over, but did they get the ending right? : Pop Culture Happy Hour

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‘Stranger Things’ is over, but did they get the ending right? : Pop Culture Happy Hour

Millie Bobby Brown in the final season of Stranger Things.

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After five seasons and almost ten years, the saga of Netflix’s Stranger Things has reached its end. In a two-hour finale, we found out what happened to our heroes (including Millie Bobby Brown and Finn Wolfhard) when they set out to battle the forces of evil. The final season had new faces and new revelations, along with moments of friendship and conflict among the folks we’ve known and loved since the night Will Byers (Noah Schnapp) first disappeared. But did it stick the landing?

To access bonus episodes and sponsor-free listening for Pop Culture Happy Hour, subscribe to Pop Culture Happy Hour+ at plus.npr.org/happy.

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