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John Galliano exits Maison Margiela, where he got a 'second chance' after Dior ouster

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John Galliano exits Maison Margiela, where he got a 'second chance' after Dior ouster

Maison Margiela’s creative director John Galliano, the iconoclastic couturier who previously headed artistry at Givenchy and Christian Dior, is leaving his post at the luxury French fashion house after a decade-long run.

The British designer, 64, announced his goodbye Wednesday via Instagram after employees at Maison Margiela were informed about his exit ahead of the company Christmas party, Women’s Wear Daily reported. Galliano’s departure also marks the end of his groundbreaking partnership with Diesel founder turned Italian fashion mogul Renzo Rosso, whose OTB Group is the parent company to Maison Margiela, Marni and Viktor & Rolf.

In a lengthy statement, the celebrated and controversial artist said he was grateful for “this life-saving creative moment and the safe space we have built together” and the “second chance” that Rosso and Martin Margiela gave him.

“My heart overflows with joyous gratitude, and my soul smiles,” he wrote. “For I am 14 years old today — 14 years sober. Living a life better than I ever dreamt possible.”

Although Galliano did not say what he plans to do next, the flamboyant and theatrical designer said he would share details in due time. Maison Margiela has not yet disclosed who will succeed Galliano, but the company has seen exponential growth in its luxury business since his appointment in 2014. Sales increased by 24% in 2022 and 23% in 2023, Vogue reported.

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“The rumors… Everyone wants to know, and everyone wants to dream,” he wrote. “When the time is right, all will be revealed. For now. I take this time to express my immense gratitude. I continue to atone, and I will never stop dreaming. I, too, need to dream.”

Galliano dressed countless celebrities during his tenure, including Kim Kardashian, Zendaya and Gwendoline Christie at the 2024 Met Gala and Miley Cyrus at the Grammy Awards this year, as well as Ariana Grande, Jennifer Lawrence, Rihanna and Katy Perry for other red-carpet events.

In his statement, the only post on his Instagram grid, Galliano reflected on his time at Maison Margiela — formerly Maison Martin Margiela — and how he was given the keys to the kingdom by its ultra-private namesake, who told him “take what you will from the DNA of the House, protect yourself, and make it your own.”

Galliano’s appointment came after a pivotal time in his life and career: The designer, who has been candid about his addictions to drugs and alcohol, had been fired by by Dior and ousted by his own design label after delivering antisemitic and racist rants in Paris in 2010 and 2011, which ultimately played out in French court.

Sometimes referring to his past self in the third person in his two-page statement, Galliano that he “mourned the loss of JG and my previous identity” and that he’s much happier now and strives daily “to be a better version of this person.” He also expressed his gratitude to Rosso for inviting him to assume the position of artistic director at Margiela after that tumultuous period in his life. (Galliano’s body of work was the subject of the 2024 documentary “High & Low.”)

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“The greatest, most precious gift he gave me was the opportunity to once again find my creative voice when I had become voiceless. My wings mended, and I better understood the all-consuming act of creativity.” In front of Rosso and Margiela, Galliano said he had an epiphany and was “ready.”

“I would surround myself with like-minded people, strong people who shared the same work ethic. I informed Renzo I would take him up on his kind offer, but my recovery would have to come first — and it did,” he wrote. “Ten years later, I am forever grateful for this safe space to create and build a new family that supports me with courage and dignity. Although little had changed in the industry then, my perspective on it has radically shifted. I begin to see changes all around me: compassion and empathy.”

“I’ll readily admit I’m demanding and difficult to run with when challenged, but look at what we have built,” he wrote. “This is when the family — the fashion industry — is at its best when we collectively support each other, not judge. When we accept, forgive, and help one another see the error of our ways. Being brave enough to unlearn, to re-educate ourselves from the past — for it is societally learnt — to share, empathize, and practice compassion.”

Galliano eased back into the spotlight and debuted his first runway collection for Maison Margiela in January 2015, sending a small couture collection down a London runway in front of a curated audience of 100 people at the end of London’s Men’s Fashion Week. This past January, he was widely applauded for his viral spring 2024 Maison Margiela Artisanal show — the one that showcased Pat McGrath’s viral, glass-like makeup — which WWD described as putting “full-throttle creativity back on the industry agenda” and propelling Galliano “to the very top of the fashion heap.”

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“Margiela’s business steadily climbed in recent years as Galliano infused its collections with campy, theatrical innovations, deconstructed designs and a gender-fluid sensibility as well as pushing the craftsmanship and creative impact of its ‘Artisanal’ line to new heights,” Business of Fashion reported. “Sales rose 22% in 2023 even as the wider luxury market slowed.”

The reformed designer on Wednesday touted “slow and ethical fashion” and its influence, as well as the design house’s sociopolitical messaging that he said centers trans and queer rights, gender equality in the workplace, anti-racism and mental health advocacy.

“I celebrate the genderless collections we now produce, reinforced by how they are brought and supported. My co-ed collections, whether Artisinal or [Ready-to-Wear], represent diversity and individuality,” he wrote in his statement. “I celebrate the magical relationships with my muses, who challenge me to create safe spaces where we can dream and make believe. You inspire everything I do. You are my life. All my muses have battled society’s norms and restrictions on gender and body identity. I rejoice in self-expression and freedom. “

He also indicated a desire to “celebrate the joy” he found in the ways he communicated creatively, embracing cultures that celebrate fashion through theater, cinema and digital media.

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In a statement to the Associated Press, Rosso lauded Galliano for making Maison Margiela “the most cutting-edge couture house in the world.” He added that the last decade “of incredibly intense work, amazing shows and installations, extraordinary beautiful product, have laid the foundations for the future.”

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Hungarian filmmaker Béla Tarr — known for bleak, existential movies — has died

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Hungarian filmmaker Béla Tarr — known for bleak, existential movies — has died

Hungarian director Béla Tarr at the Berlin International Film Festival in 2011.

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Béla Tarr, the Hungarian arthouse director best known for his bleak, existential and challenging films, including Sátántangó and Werckmeister Harmonies, has died at the age of 70. The Hungarian Filmmakers’ Association shared a statement on Tuesday announcing Tarr’s passing after a serious illness, but did not specify further details.

Tarr was born in communist-era Hungary in 1955 and made his filmmaking debut in 1979 with Family Nest, the first of nine feature films that would culminate in his 2011 film The Turin Horse. Damnation, released in 1988 at the Berlin International Film Festival, was his first film to draw global acclaim, and launched Tarr from a little-known director of social dramas to a fixture on the international film festival circuit.

Tarr’s reputation for films tinged with misery and hard-heartedness, distinguished by black-and-white cinematography and unusually long sequences, only grew throughout the 1990s and 2000s, particularly after his 1994 film Sátántangó. The epic drama, following a Hungarian village facing the fallout of communism, is best known for its length, clocking in at seven-and-a-half hours.

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Based on the novel by Hungarian writer László Krasznahorkai, who won the Nobel Prize in Literature last year and frequently collaborated with Tarr, the film became a touchstone for the “slow cinema” movement, with Tarr joining the ranks of directors such as Andrei Tarkovsky, Chantal Akerman and Theo Angelopoulos. Writer and critic Susan Sontag hailed Sátántangó as “devastating, enthralling for every minute of its seven hours.”

Tarr’s next breakthrough came in 2000 with his film Werckmeister Harmonies, the first of three movies co-directed by his partner, the editor Ágnes Hranitzky. Another loose adaptation of a Krasznahorkai novel, the film depicts the strange arrival of a circus in a small town in Hungary. With only 39 shots making up the film’s two-and-a-half-hour runtime, Tarr’s penchant for long takes was on full display.

Like Sátántangó, it was a major success with both critics and the arthouse crowd. Both films popularized Tarr’s style and drew the admiration of independent directors such as Jim Jarmusch and Gus Van Sant, the latter of which cited Tarr as a direct influence on his films: “They get so much closer to the real rhythms of life that it is like seeing the birth of a new cinema. He is one of the few genuinely visionary filmmakers.”

The actress Tilda Swinton is another admirer of Tarr’s, and starred in the filmmaker’s 2007 film The Man from London. At the premiere, Tarr announced that his next film would be his last. That 2011 film, The Turin Horse, was typically bleak but with an apocalyptic twist, following a man and his daughter as they face the end of the world. The film won the Grand Jury Prize at the Berlin International Film Festival.

After the release of The Turin Horse, Tarr opened an international film program in 2013 called film.factory as part of the Sarajevo Film Academy. He led and taught in the school for four years, inviting various filmmakers and actors to teach workshops and mentor students, including Swinton, Van Sant, Jarmusch, Juliette Binoche and Gael García Bernal.

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In the last years of his life, he worked on a number of artistic projects, including an exhibition at a film museum in Amsterdam. He remained politically outspoken throughout his life, condemning the rise of nationalism and criticizing the government of Hungarian leader Viktor Orbán.

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Epic stretch of SoCal rainfall muddies roads, spurs beach advisories. When will it end?

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Epic stretch of SoCal rainfall muddies roads, spurs beach advisories. When will it end?

California’s wet winter continued Sunday, with the heaviest rain occurring into the evening, and more precipitation forecast for Monday before tapering off on Tuesday, according to the National Weather Service.

A flood advisory was in effect for most of Los Angeles County until 10 p.m.

Los Angeles and Ventura counties’ coastal and valley regions could receive roughly half an inch to an inch more rain, with mountain areas getting one to two additional inches Sunday, officials said. The next two days will be lighter, said Robbie Munroe, a meteorologist at the weather service office in Oxnard.

Rains in Southern California have broken records this season, with some areas approaching average rain totals for an entire season. As of Sunday morning, the region had seen nearly 14 inches of rain since Oct. 1, more than three times the average of 4 inches for this time of year. An average rain season, which goes from July 1 to June 30, is 14.25 inches, officials said.

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“There’s the potential that we’ll already meet our average rainfall for the entire 12-month period by later today if we end up getting half an inch or more of rain,” Munroe added.

The wet weather prompted multiple road closures over the weekend, including a 3.6-mile stretch of Topanga Canyon Boulevard between Pacific Coast Highway and Grand View Drive as well as State Route 33 between Fairview Road and Lockwood Valley Road in the Los Padres National Forest. The California Department of Transportation also closed all lanes along State Route 2 from 3.3 miles east of Newcomb’s Ranch to State Route 138 in Angeles National Forest.

Los Angeles County Department of Public Health officials say beachgoers should stay out of the water to avoid the higher bacteria levels brought on by rain.

After storms, especially near discharging storm drains, creeks and rivers, the water can be contaminated with E. coli, trash, chemicals and other public health hazards.

The advisory, which will be in effect until at least 4 p.m. Monday, could be extended if the rain continues.

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In Ventura County on Sunday, the 101 Freeway was reopened after lanes were closed due to flooding Saturday. But there was at least one spinout as well as a vehicle stuck in mud on the highway Sunday, according to the National Weather Service. The freeway was also closed Saturday in Santa Barbara County in both directions near Goleta due to debris flows but reopened Sunday, according to Caltrans.

Santa Barbara Airport reopened and all commercial flights and fixed-wing aircraft were cleared for normal operations Sunday morning. The airport had shut down and grounded all flights Saturday due to flooded runways.

In Orange County early Sunday afternoon, firefighters rescued a man clinging to a section of a tunnel in cold, fast-moving water in a storm channel at Bolsa Avenue and Goldenwest Street in Westminster, according to fire officials.

A swift-water rescue team deployed a helicopter, lowered inflated firehoses and positioned an aerial ladder to allow responders to secure the man and bring him to safety before transporting him to a hospital for evaluation.

Heavy rains continued to batter Southern California mountain areas. Wrightwood in San Bernardino County — slammed recently with mud and debris — was closed Sunday except to residents as heavy equipment was brought in to clear mud and debris from roadways, the news-gathering organization OnScene reported.

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After canceling live racing on New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day due to heavy showers, Santa Anita Park also called off events Saturday and Sunday.

After several atmospheric river systems have come through, familiar conditions are set to return to the region later this week.

“We’ll get a good break from the rain and it’ll let things dry out a little bit, and we may even be looking at Santa Ana conditions as we head into next weekend,” Munroe said. The weather will likely be “mostly sunny” and breezy in the valleys and mountains.

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‘Stranger Things’ is over, but did they get the ending right? : Pop Culture Happy Hour

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‘Stranger Things’ is over, but did they get the ending right? : Pop Culture Happy Hour

Millie Bobby Brown in the final season of Stranger Things.

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After five seasons and almost ten years, the saga of Netflix’s Stranger Things has reached its end. In a two-hour finale, we found out what happened to our heroes (including Millie Bobby Brown and Finn Wolfhard) when they set out to battle the forces of evil. The final season had new faces and new revelations, along with moments of friendship and conflict among the folks we’ve known and loved since the night Will Byers (Noah Schnapp) first disappeared. But did it stick the landing?

To access bonus episodes and sponsor-free listening for Pop Culture Happy Hour, subscribe to Pop Culture Happy Hour+ at plus.npr.org/happy.

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