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Gucci Taps Demna, Balenciaga’s Creative Director, as New Designer

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Gucci Taps Demna, Balenciaga’s Creative Director, as New Designer

The great Gucci reset is here. On Wednesday, the Italian fashion house named Demna, the mononymic designer who transformed Balenciaga from a niche luxury house into one of the most provocative, boundary-breaking brands of the last decade, as its new artistic director. He will be in charge of women’s wear, men’s wear and accessories.

Gucci and Balenciaga are owned by Kering, the French conglomerate that also owns Saint Laurent, McQueen, Brioni and Bottega Veneta. A new designer for Balenciaga has not been announced.

“Gucci stands for fashion authority,” Stefano Cantino, the chief executive of Gucci, said. “This is what we want to bring back.”

Demna will be the first “star” designer with a proven track record in Gucci’s 104-year history, a seeming acknowledgment of the crisis it has experienced over the last two years after an apparent attempt to recast itself as a timeless luxury brand. Revenue plunged 23 percent in 2024, and the Kering stock price has more than halved since 2023. (Gucci is by far the largest brand in the Kering stable.)

The appointment will add yet more turmoil to an already unsettled fashion world in which a record number of fashion companies have changed design heads in the last year. Half of Kering’s brands alone will have new designers in 2025.

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“We were looking for a strong and opinionated designer,” Mr. Cantino said. “Demna is one of the few.” He brings with him not just design skills, Mr. Cantino said, but “an understanding of contemporary culture, of what is luxury today and a deep understanding of the new generation.”

He also brings a certain knowledge of Gucci. In 2021, Demna and Alessandro Michele, the Gucci designer at the time, “hacked” into each other’s brands to reinterpret their most recognizable designs, with Demna replacing Gucci’s famous double Gs with Bs on its classic logo canvas accessories. And he has the confidence of the Kering chief executive François-Henri Pinault, who once told The New York Times he believed Demna could create a “megabrand.”

When Mr. Pinault named the Georgian-born Demna Gvasalia (he dropped his surname in 2021) to Balenciaga in 2015, however, the fashion world was shocked.

Though Demna, now 43, had received his master’s degree from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium, and trained in the studios of Martin Margiela and Louis Vuitton, he made his name at Vetements, a cultlike label created in 2014 that became a fashion sensation almost overnight because of its nose-thumbingly antifashion aesthetic. (Demna left Vetements in 2019.)

Nonetheless, during Demna’s 10 years at Balenciaga, revenues grew close to $2 billion from an estimated $390 million, challenging the meaning of luxury, value and authenticity in the process.

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He took the quotidian — Crocs, IKEA totes, even garbage bags — and put them on a pedestal. He almost single-handedly started the monster sneaker trend. He put all ages and genders and kinds of beauty on his runway and created shows that were immersive, apocalyptic experiences that acted as forms of social criticism as much as fashion: shows about the climate crisis, the war in Ukraine, celebrity and the rule of capitalism. He scandalized and thrilled in equal measure.

He collaborated with “The Simpsons,” made Balenciaga video games and attended the Met with Kim Kardashian. He also restarted the couture line and never lost sight of the purity of silhouette that characterized the work of Balenciaga’s namesake designer, Cristóbal Balenciaga.

Balenciaga’s momentum came to an abrupt halt in 2023, when a misjudged holiday ad campaign precipitated online allegations of pedophilia, and Demna’s deep friendship with Ye cast a shadow on the brand in the wake of Ye’s antisemitic rants. Cancellation loomed, but Balenciaga eventually distanced itself from the controversy, and it has since recovered some of its strength. In January, Demna was made a Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres in recognition of his contribution to French fashion. He wore a T-shirt.

Demna’s last Balenciaga show, held on March 9 in Paris, was a career retrospective of sorts and a reminder of just what he had brought to the house. After the show, he joked to reporters that the reason he was wearing a suit for the first time was that he was Demna 2.0.

The Gucci news suggests it was less a joke than it seemed at the time.

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“Demna’s contribution to the industry, to Balenciaga and to the group’s success has been tremendous,” said François-Henri Pinault in a news release. “His creative power is exactly what Gucci needs.”

Francesca Bellettini, the deputy chief executive of Kering, called him “the perfect catalyst.”

Demna replaces Sabato De Sarno, a designer who had worked behind the scenes at Valentino before being charged with Gucci’s reset after the seven years of Alessandro Michele’s magpie maximalism. (Mr. Michele had likewise been a number two before ascending to his position, working for the former Gucci designer Frida Giannini.) Though the Michele era had buoyed Gucci to annual revenues of about 10 billion euros, tastes began to swing away from his trademark eccentricity, and Gucci management thought a return to discretion was the answer.

That turned out to be wrong. Instead of positioning the brand as a somewhat more hip equivalent of Hermès, Mr. De Sarno’s luxury minimalism simply made it seem diminished. (It turns out one Hermès is enough.) Demna’s job will be to change all that, though he will have to overcome not just the problems of Gucci, but also the challenge of a slowdown in the broader luxury industry.

In that lies a certain appeal, Mr. Cantino said.

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For Demna, Mr. Cantino said, the idea of “being able to make a success at Gucci, prove he is capable of doing something different than Balenciaga and show a different point of view, was very exciting.”

Gucci did not confirm when Demna would show his first collection, but he will begin in early July after his final Balenciaga couture show. (Gucci is not a couture house.) He will split his time between his home in Switzerland and the Gucci headquarters in Milan.

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JasonMartin Says Adin Ross Disrespecting Doechii Stops in 2026

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JasonMartin Says Adin Ross Disrespecting Doechii Stops in 2026

JasonMartin
Adin Ross Disrespecting Doechii …
Will Not Be Tolerated!!!

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‘Everything I knew burned down around me’: A journalist looks back on LA’s fires

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‘Everything I knew burned down around me’: A journalist looks back on LA’s fires

A firefighter works as homes burn during the Eaton fire in the Altadena area of Los Angeles County, Calif., on Jan. 7, 2025.

Josh Edelson/AFP via Getty Images


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Josh Edelson/AFP via Getty Images

On New Year’s Eve 2024, journalist Jacob Soboroff was sitting around a campfire with a friend when he made an offhand comment that would come back to haunt him: The last thing he wanted to do in the new year, Soboroff said, was cover a story that would require donning a fire-safe yellow suit.

Just one week later, Soboroff was dressed in the yellow suit, reporting live from a street corner in Los Angeles as fire tore through the Pacific Palisades, the community where he was raised.

“This was a place that I could navigate with my eyes closed,” Soboroff says of the neighborhood. “Every hallmark of my childhood I was watching carbonize in front of me. … There were firefighters there and first responders and other journalists there, but it was an extremely lonely, isolating experience to be standing there as everything I knew burned down around me in real time.”

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In his new book, Firestorm: The Great Los Angeles Fires and America’s New Age of Disaster, Soboroff offers a minute-by-minute account of the catastrophe, told through the voices of firefighters, evacuees, scientists and political leaders. He says covering the wildfires was the most important assignment he’s ever undertaken.

“The experience of doing this is something that I don’t wish on anybody, but in a way I wish everybody could experience,” he says. “It’s given me insane reverence for our colleagues in the local news community here, who, I think, definitionally were exercising a public service in the street-level journalism that they were doing and are still doing. … It was actually beautiful to watch because they are as much a first responder on a frontline as anybody else.”

Interview highlights

Firestorm, by Ben Soboroff

On the experience of reporting from the fires

You’re choking with the smoke. And I almost feel guilty describing it from my vantage point because the firefighters would say things to me like: “My eyeballs were burning. We were laying flat on our stomach in the middle of the concrete street because it was so hot, it was the only way that we could open the hoses full bore and try to save anything that we could.” …

I could feel the heat on the back of my neck as we stood in front of these houses that I remember as the houses that cars and people would line up in front of for the annual Fourth of July parade or the road race that we would run through town. Trees were on fire behind us — we were at risk of structures falling at any given minute. It was pretty surreal because this is a place I had spent so much time as a child and going back to as an adult. … I had no choice but to just open my mouth and say what I saw to the millions of people that were watching us around the country.

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On undocumented immigrants being central to rebuilding the city

These types of massive both humanitarian and natural disasters give us X-ray vision for a time into sort of the fissures that are underneath the surface in our society. And Los Angeles, in addition to being one of the most unequal cities between the rich and the poor, has more undocumented people than virtually any other city in the United States of America. Governor Newsom knew that with the policies of the incoming administration, some of the very people that would be responsible for the cleanup and the rebuilding of Los Angeles may end up in the crosshairs of national immigration policy. And I think that that was an understatement. …

Pablo Alvarado in the National Day Laborer Organizing Network said to me that often the first people into a disaster — the second responders after the first — are the day laborers. They went to Florida after Hurricane Andrew, to New Orleans after Katrina, and they’d be ready to go in Los Angeles. And I went out and I cleaned up Altadena and Pasadena with some of them in real time.

And only months later did this wide-scale immigration enforcement campaign begin … on the streets of LA as sort of the Petri dish, the guinea pig for expanding this across the country. And it’s not an exaggeration to say that the parking lots of Home Depots, where workers [were] looking to get involved in the rebuilding of Los Angeles, has been ground zero for that enforcement campaign.

On efforts to rebuild

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The pace is slow and it’s sort of a hopscotch of development. And I think for people who do come back, for people who can afford to come back, it’s going to be a long road ahead. You’re going to have half the houses on your street under construction for years to come. And for people that do inhabit those homes, it’s going to an isolating experience. But there’s an effort underway to rebuild. …

There’s also a lot of for-sale signs. And that’s the sad reality of this, is that there are people who, whether it’s that they can’t afford to come back … or that they just can’t stomach it, I think, sadly, a lot people are not going to be returning to their homes.

On what the Palisades and Altadena look like today

They both look like very big construction sites in a way. There are still some facades, some ruins of the more historic buildings in the Palisades. … But mostly it’s just empty lots. And in Altadena, the same thing. If you drive by the hardware store, the outside is still there. But it’s a patchwork of empty lots. Homes now under construction. And lots and lots of workers. … There are still a handful of people who are living in both the Palisades and in Altadena, but for the most part, these are communities where you’ve got workers going in during the day and coming out at night. …

We have designed this community to be one that’s in the crosshairs of a fire just like the one we experienced and that we will certainly, certainly experience again, because nobody’s packing it up and leaving Los Angeles. People may not return to their communities after they’ve lost their homes, but the ship has sailed on living in the wildland urban interface in the second largest city in the country.

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On seeing this story, personally, as his “most important assignment”

Jacob Soboroff is a correspondent for MS NOW, formerly MSNBC.

Jacob Soboroff is a correspondent for MS NOW, formerly MSNBC.

Jason Frank Rothenberg/HarperCollins


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Jason Frank Rothenberg/HarperCollins

I don’t think I realized at the time how badly I needed the connections that I made in the wake of the fire, both with the people who have lost homes and the firefighters, first responders who were out there, but also honestly with my own family, my immediate family, my wife and my kids, my mom and my dad and my siblings and myself. I think that this was a really hard year in LA, and I think in the wake of the fire, I was experiencing some level of despair as well. Then the ICE raids happened here and sort of turned our city upside down. And this book for me was just this amazing cathartic blessing of an opportunity to find community with people I don’t think I ever would have otherwise spent time with, and to reconnect with people who I hadn’t seen or heard from in forever.

Anna Bauman and Nico Wisler produced and edited this interview for broadcast. Bridget Bentz, Molly Seavy-Nesper and Beth Novey adapted it for the web.

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The Best of BoF 2025: A Tough Year for Luxury

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The Best of BoF 2025: A Tough Year for Luxury
High-end brands struggled to shake the gloom, with no sign of a rebound in view. Yet bright patches have emerged, with fresh energy from creative revamps, investor confidence in Kering’s new CEO and outperformance of labels like Hermes, Brunello Cucinelli and Prada.
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