Lifestyle
Gucci Taps Demna, Balenciaga’s Creative Director, as New Designer
The great Gucci reset is here. On Wednesday, the Italian fashion house named Demna, the mononymic designer who transformed Balenciaga from a niche luxury house into one of the most provocative, boundary-breaking brands of the last decade, as its new artistic director. He will be in charge of women’s wear, men’s wear and accessories.
Gucci and Balenciaga are owned by Kering, the French conglomerate that also owns Saint Laurent, McQueen, Brioni and Bottega Veneta. A new designer for Balenciaga has not been announced.
“Gucci stands for fashion authority,” Stefano Cantino, the chief executive of Gucci, said. “This is what we want to bring back.”
Demna will be the first “star” designer with a proven track record in Gucci’s 104-year history, a seeming acknowledgment of the crisis it has experienced over the last two years after an apparent attempt to recast itself as a timeless luxury brand. Revenue plunged 23 percent in 2024, and the Kering stock price has more than halved since 2023. (Gucci is by far the largest brand in the Kering stable.)
The appointment will add yet more turmoil to an already unsettled fashion world in which a record number of fashion companies have changed design heads in the last year. Half of Kering’s brands alone will have new designers in 2025.
“We were looking for a strong and opinionated designer,” Mr. Cantino said. “Demna is one of the few.” He brings with him not just design skills, Mr. Cantino said, but “an understanding of contemporary culture, of what is luxury today and a deep understanding of the new generation.”
He also brings a certain knowledge of Gucci. In 2021, Demna and Alessandro Michele, the Gucci designer at the time, “hacked” into each other’s brands to reinterpret their most recognizable designs, with Demna replacing Gucci’s famous double Gs with Bs on its classic logo canvas accessories. And he has the confidence of the Kering chief executive François-Henri Pinault, who once told The New York Times he believed Demna could create a “megabrand.”
When Mr. Pinault named the Georgian-born Demna Gvasalia (he dropped his surname in 2021) to Balenciaga in 2015, however, the fashion world was shocked.
Though Demna, now 43, had received his master’s degree from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium, and trained in the studios of Martin Margiela and Louis Vuitton, he made his name at Vetements, a cultlike label created in 2014 that became a fashion sensation almost overnight because of its nose-thumbingly antifashion aesthetic. (Demna left Vetements in 2019.)
Nonetheless, during Demna’s 10 years at Balenciaga, revenues grew close to $2 billion from an estimated $390 million, challenging the meaning of luxury, value and authenticity in the process.
He took the quotidian — Crocs, IKEA totes, even garbage bags — and put them on a pedestal. He almost single-handedly started the monster sneaker trend. He put all ages and genders and kinds of beauty on his runway and created shows that were immersive, apocalyptic experiences that acted as forms of social criticism as much as fashion: shows about the climate crisis, the war in Ukraine, celebrity and the rule of capitalism. He scandalized and thrilled in equal measure.
He collaborated with “The Simpsons,” made Balenciaga video games and attended the Met with Kim Kardashian. He also restarted the couture line and never lost sight of the purity of silhouette that characterized the work of Balenciaga’s namesake designer, Cristóbal Balenciaga.
Balenciaga’s momentum came to an abrupt halt in 2023, when a misjudged holiday ad campaign precipitated online allegations of pedophilia, and Demna’s deep friendship with Ye cast a shadow on the brand in the wake of Ye’s antisemitic rants. Cancellation loomed, but Balenciaga eventually distanced itself from the controversy, and it has since recovered some of its strength. In January, Demna was made a Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres in recognition of his contribution to French fashion. He wore a T-shirt.
Demna’s last Balenciaga show, held on March 9 in Paris, was a career retrospective of sorts and a reminder of just what he had brought to the house. After the show, he joked to reporters that the reason he was wearing a suit for the first time was that he was Demna 2.0.
The Gucci news suggests it was less a joke than it seemed at the time.
“Demna’s contribution to the industry, to Balenciaga and to the group’s success has been tremendous,” said François-Henri Pinault in a news release. “His creative power is exactly what Gucci needs.”
Francesca Bellettini, the deputy chief executive of Kering, called him “the perfect catalyst.”
Demna replaces Sabato De Sarno, a designer who had worked behind the scenes at Valentino before being charged with Gucci’s reset after the seven years of Alessandro Michele’s magpie maximalism. (Mr. Michele had likewise been a number two before ascending to his position, working for the former Gucci designer Frida Giannini.) Though the Michele era had buoyed Gucci to annual revenues of about 10 billion euros, tastes began to swing away from his trademark eccentricity, and Gucci management thought a return to discretion was the answer.
That turned out to be wrong. Instead of positioning the brand as a somewhat more hip equivalent of Hermès, Mr. De Sarno’s luxury minimalism simply made it seem diminished. (It turns out one Hermès is enough.) Demna’s job will be to change all that, though he will have to overcome not just the problems of Gucci, but also the challenge of a slowdown in the broader luxury industry.
In that lies a certain appeal, Mr. Cantino said.
For Demna, Mr. Cantino said, the idea of “being able to make a success at Gucci, prove he is capable of doing something different than Balenciaga and show a different point of view, was very exciting.”
Gucci did not confirm when Demna would show his first collection, but he will begin in early July after his final Balenciaga couture show. (Gucci is not a couture house.) He will split his time between his home in Switzerland and the Gucci headquarters in Milan.
Lifestyle
Hunting For Lexapro Clocks, Viagra Neckties and Other Vintage Pharmaceutical Merch
Zoe Latta, a co-founder of the fashion brand Eckhaus Latta, saw the clock on Instagram and started searching for pharma swag on eBay. “It was just a hole I got in,” she said. Latta soon rounded up some examples at “Rotting on the Vine,” her Substack newsletter, describing them as “silly byproducts of our sick sad world.”
Pharma swag feels somewhat like Marlboro Man merch — “like this very specific modality of our culture that’s changed,” Latta said, adding, “At first, I thought it was ironic and cheeky. But it’s also so dark.”
In particular, swag like the OxyContin mugs that read “The One to Start With. The One to Stay With” is regarded as highly collectible and highly contentious. Jeremy Wells, a newspaper owner and editor in Olive Hill, Ky., remembered, for example, seeing the mugs sold at a Dollar Tree in New Boston, Ohio, in the late 1990s or early 2000s. “At the same moment that the epidemic is blowing up,” he said.
“You can do a chicken-and-egg argument, and I doubt very seriously that those mugs made anybody get addicted,” he said. “But I do feel like things like those mugs did add to the mystique and the aura of seduction.” (After a protracted lawsuit, Purdue Pharma, the maker of OxyContin, has been dissolved and is on the hook to pay more than $5 billion in criminal penalties for fueling the opioid epidemic.)
“I was surprised to see how much this stuff was selling for in general — there is demand,” Latta said, pointing to a vintage Xanax photo frame listed for $230. Latta said she could imagine buying it for a friend who takes Xanax on planes (“if it was at a thrift store for under $10”) or maybe a pair of Moderna aviator sunglasses that she found, which seem to nod at Covid vaccines and the signature Biden eyewear, she said.
Pharmacore — medical-branded pieces worn as fashion — has found new expression at the confluence of identity, medicine and commerce, and at a time when skepticism toward pharmaceuticals is at a high (see: the MAHA movement).
Lifestyle
He’s your ex, not your son. Unconditional love does not apply
Goth Shakira wears a Blumarine jacket, vintage Jean Paul Gaultier top from Wild West Social House, Jane Wade bra and Ariel Taub earrings.
My ex-boyfriend, whom I just got out of a relationship with, had a pure heart and was a loyal lover. However, he lacked ambition and his family didn’t have the best values. I don’t see myself raising children with him because I don’t want my kids to be surrounded by his family. (I broke up with him on the night of his birthday because his sister got violent with me.) We dated for over a year and I’d always be the one to take care of the check when we’d go out on dates. He had no network, so we would always hang out with my friends and colleagues. Am I wrong for leaving him? Is his loyalty worth going through all that?
Girl. (“Girl” is a gender-neutral term of endearment, by the way.) I’m going to need you to take a deep breath, look at your gorgeous self in the mirror and relish in the fact that you have made the right decision.
First, let’s focus on the good. Loyalty and purity of heart are beautiful traits that many, many people on this earth have. When you find someone who does, and then combine that with your attraction and attachment to this person (along with the reality that many, many people also lack these traits), it makes sense that you’d be feeling like your ex is a rare find that you might not encounter again. However, you can care for someone, and also acknowledge the truth that the life they are setting themself up for is not the life you envision living — or, crucially, the life that you envision your children living. A long-term partnership is so much more than love. It requires a shared vision for fulfillment and happiness, based on compatible values. It necessitates a wholeness from both parties, wherein two individuals take ownership and accountability over their own success and well-being. It is loving to let someone go so they can live their life in peace and free of judgment, and even find someone else whose version of an ideal life more closely matches theirs. Most importantly, letting someone go who you know is not aligned with the life you want to live is a deeply self-loving act.
The meaning I glean from your words is this: It’s not so much that you yearn for him romantically and fear you made a mistake simply because your life is empty without him. (In fact, it sounds like you were the one adding a lot of value to his otherwise limited existence through your resources.) It seems that you feel guilty for leaving him behind as you went on to pursue a better life for yourself. That kind of feeling is more caretaking, and dare I say maternal, than loving (at least the kind associated with romantic partnership). He’s your ex, not your son. Unconditional love is only healthy and appropriate in the context of a parent-child relationship, and that’s not the situation here. People who engage in romantic relationships with men — women, femmes, gay men, etc. — are socialized to be ever-forgiving, to have infinite patience and compassion. The lines get blurred when you do feel kindness and genuine compassion for someone you care about. It can be difficult to discern when you’re being too harsh, and when you’re just setting a healthy boundary. Society makes it difficult for us in that way. But we don’t have to succumb to that pressure.
You can’t fall in love with someone’s potential. If a person, especially a man, shows up to a relationship as someone you can’t envision spending an extended period of time with, then that’s not your person. Not only is it impossible to truly “fix” or “change” anyone, it’s simply not an efficient or productive use of your precious energetic and material resources. Of course, we all change over time, and hopefully in positive ways. But that change needs to be self-directed, coming from within each individual. “Change” exerted on another through force robs the receiving party of the dignity of authoring their own life path. Even the verbiage of your question indicates that you’ve already extended a lot of generosity and patience toward someone who didn’t feel like working toward social and financial independence, and setting boundaries with their family should have been a top priority. I can sense your exhaustion underneath the guilt. That’s the root of the matter. And what matters is you.
I can sense your exhaustion underneath the guilt.
Loss is just space. It can hurt and feel empty at first. But it also allows you the room you need to expand your world with abundance, not shrink it and drain it into scarcity. Affirm in your heart and in your mind that love itself is an infinite resource. If you channel the patience and generosity that you once put into your ex into a life where you are fulfilled to the utmost, the right person (or people) will find you.
And, girl. Some time from now, when you are loved by a man who takes his own dignity seriously, and supports you in the feminine energy of rest and calm that you deserve to experience and embody, you will be so grateful to this current version of you that had the courage to let go. I’m proud of you.
Photography Eugene Kim
Styling Britton Litow
Hair and Makeup Jaime Diaz
Visual Direction Jess Aquino de Jesus
Production Cecilia Alvarez Blackwell
Photo Assistant Joe Elgar
Styling Assistant Wendy Gonzalez Vivaño
Lifestyle
She Had Seen Her in Photos. Then They Met in Real Life.
The kiss finally happened at a Halloween party Chatterjee hosted at her apartment, while the two were watching “American Psycho” on the couch at 3 a.m., when everyone else had gone out for food. “We’re sitting so close our legs are touching and I’m freaking out,” Braggins said.
“I looked at Abby, and I was like, ‘I’d rather kiss you than watch this,’” Chatterjee said. So they did. About a month later, they were official.
On April 10, Braggins suggested they take a trip to Home Goods in Brooklyn. When they ended up at Coney Island Beach instead, Chatterjee was none the wiser. It was an early morning, so the two, along with the dog they adopted together, Willow, enjoyed having the beach to themselves.
Braggins ran ahead with Willow and crouched behind some rocks. When Chatterjee got a glimpse of Willow, there was a bandanna tied around her neck. It said, “Will you marry me?” Braggins pulled out a shell with a ring in it. The answer was yes.
A few days before, Chatterjee had proposed to Braggins amid a gloomy, cloudy sky on top of the Empire State Building.
The two were married on April 21 at the New York City Marriage Bureau, in front of three guests, by Guohuan Zhang, a city clerk. Afterward, they celebrated at Bungalow, an Indian restaurant in the East Village, with a few more friends.
Though Chatterjee’s parents were not present at the wedding, one of the couple’s most meaningful moments came in 2023, when Braggins traveled to India to meet Chatterjee’s family for the first time. Chatterjee had never brought a partner home before, and she had warned Braggins that same-sex relationships were still not widely accepted there. But by the end of the trip, Chatterjee’s mother had embraced Braggins as family, telling her, “I have two daughters now.”
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