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Gucci Taps Demna, Balenciaga’s Creative Director, as New Designer

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Gucci Taps Demna, Balenciaga’s Creative Director, as New Designer

The great Gucci reset is here. On Wednesday, the Italian fashion house named Demna, the mononymic designer who transformed Balenciaga from a niche luxury house into one of the most provocative, boundary-breaking brands of the last decade, as its new artistic director. He will be in charge of women’s wear, men’s wear and accessories.

Gucci and Balenciaga are owned by Kering, the French conglomerate that also owns Saint Laurent, McQueen, Brioni and Bottega Veneta. A new designer for Balenciaga has not been announced.

“Gucci stands for fashion authority,” Stefano Cantino, the chief executive of Gucci, said. “This is what we want to bring back.”

Demna will be the first “star” designer with a proven track record in Gucci’s 104-year history, a seeming acknowledgment of the crisis it has experienced over the last two years after an apparent attempt to recast itself as a timeless luxury brand. Revenue plunged 23 percent in 2024, and the Kering stock price has more than halved since 2023. (Gucci is by far the largest brand in the Kering stable.)

The appointment will add yet more turmoil to an already unsettled fashion world in which a record number of fashion companies have changed design heads in the last year. Half of Kering’s brands alone will have new designers in 2025.

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“We were looking for a strong and opinionated designer,” Mr. Cantino said. “Demna is one of the few.” He brings with him not just design skills, Mr. Cantino said, but “an understanding of contemporary culture, of what is luxury today and a deep understanding of the new generation.”

He also brings a certain knowledge of Gucci. In 2021, Demna and Alessandro Michele, the Gucci designer at the time, “hacked” into each other’s brands to reinterpret their most recognizable designs, with Demna replacing Gucci’s famous double Gs with Bs on its classic logo canvas accessories. And he has the confidence of the Kering chief executive François-Henri Pinault, who once told The New York Times he believed Demna could create a “megabrand.”

When Mr. Pinault named the Georgian-born Demna Gvasalia (he dropped his surname in 2021) to Balenciaga in 2015, however, the fashion world was shocked.

Though Demna, now 43, had received his master’s degree from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium, and trained in the studios of Martin Margiela and Louis Vuitton, he made his name at Vetements, a cultlike label created in 2014 that became a fashion sensation almost overnight because of its nose-thumbingly antifashion aesthetic. (Demna left Vetements in 2019.)

Nonetheless, during Demna’s 10 years at Balenciaga, revenues grew close to $2 billion from an estimated $390 million, challenging the meaning of luxury, value and authenticity in the process.

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He took the quotidian — Crocs, IKEA totes, even garbage bags — and put them on a pedestal. He almost single-handedly started the monster sneaker trend. He put all ages and genders and kinds of beauty on his runway and created shows that were immersive, apocalyptic experiences that acted as forms of social criticism as much as fashion: shows about the climate crisis, the war in Ukraine, celebrity and the rule of capitalism. He scandalized and thrilled in equal measure.

He collaborated with “The Simpsons,” made Balenciaga video games and attended the Met with Kim Kardashian. He also restarted the couture line and never lost sight of the purity of silhouette that characterized the work of Balenciaga’s namesake designer, Cristóbal Balenciaga.

Balenciaga’s momentum came to an abrupt halt in 2023, when a misjudged holiday ad campaign precipitated online allegations of pedophilia, and Demna’s deep friendship with Ye cast a shadow on the brand in the wake of Ye’s antisemitic rants. Cancellation loomed, but Balenciaga eventually distanced itself from the controversy, and it has since recovered some of its strength. In January, Demna was made a Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres in recognition of his contribution to French fashion. He wore a T-shirt.

Demna’s last Balenciaga show, held on March 9 in Paris, was a career retrospective of sorts and a reminder of just what he had brought to the house. After the show, he joked to reporters that the reason he was wearing a suit for the first time was that he was Demna 2.0.

The Gucci news suggests it was less a joke than it seemed at the time.

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“Demna’s contribution to the industry, to Balenciaga and to the group’s success has been tremendous,” said François-Henri Pinault in a news release. “His creative power is exactly what Gucci needs.”

Francesca Bellettini, the deputy chief executive of Kering, called him “the perfect catalyst.”

Demna replaces Sabato De Sarno, a designer who had worked behind the scenes at Valentino before being charged with Gucci’s reset after the seven years of Alessandro Michele’s magpie maximalism. (Mr. Michele had likewise been a number two before ascending to his position, working for the former Gucci designer Frida Giannini.) Though the Michele era had buoyed Gucci to annual revenues of about 10 billion euros, tastes began to swing away from his trademark eccentricity, and Gucci management thought a return to discretion was the answer.

That turned out to be wrong. Instead of positioning the brand as a somewhat more hip equivalent of Hermès, Mr. De Sarno’s luxury minimalism simply made it seem diminished. (It turns out one Hermès is enough.) Demna’s job will be to change all that, though he will have to overcome not just the problems of Gucci, but also the challenge of a slowdown in the broader luxury industry.

In that lies a certain appeal, Mr. Cantino said.

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For Demna, Mr. Cantino said, the idea of “being able to make a success at Gucci, prove he is capable of doing something different than Balenciaga and show a different point of view, was very exciting.”

Gucci did not confirm when Demna would show his first collection, but he will begin in early July after his final Balenciaga couture show. (Gucci is not a couture house.) He will split his time between his home in Switzerland and the Gucci headquarters in Milan.

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Shy on the dance floor? Virtual reality ‘partners’ aim to help you find your groove

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Shy on the dance floor? Virtual reality ‘partners’ aim to help you find your groove

Entrepreneur David Huang tests out a VR headset while conducting demonstrations of the social dance lesson app Dance Guru at the Augmented World Expo in Long Beach, Calif., June 17, 2026.

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Wedding season is in full swing, bringing with it a familiar sense of dread for anyone who fears the dance floor.

But relief may finally be at hand with the help of a new app, Dance Guru, and a virtual reality (VR) headset.

The social dance instruction app transports users to a spacious, digital dance studio. Waiting inside is a computer-generated coach: a handsome, male avatar wearing a shirt open to his navel. He speaks with a slightly gravelly English accent.

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“Watch me now,” he instructs at the start of a waltz lesson — which NPR tried out at the Augmented World Expo in Long Beach, Calif., an annual conference showcasing the latest developments in virtual and augmented reality.

The avatar then demonstrates a basic box step.

From there, the lesson becomes interactive. The coach tells the user to hold his hand while an electric pinging sound tracks the student’s foot placement.

“One, two, three, four, five, six,” the virtual teacher counts down.

When the user stumbles, he remains remarkably patient. “Do not worry, foundations take time. Let’s try that again. Work on grounding your steps more intentionally.”

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Solving the beginner’s dilemma

Dance Guru creator David Huang said he came up with the idea for the app a couple of years ago out of frustration.

“I always wanted to learn to dance and I was always terrible at it,” Huang said. “And I always ended up stopping midway through the lessons.”

He soon realized that many beginners hit the exact same roadblocks.

“Private lessons are too expensive, and you feel like you’re always forgetting the dance steps,” Huang said. “You cannot find a partner to dance with. So I figured maybe I can create something like this.”

The Dance Guru platform currently offers tutorials in salsa, bachata, waltz, and cha-cha, in both lead and follow modes. To make the digital instruction feel authentic, Huang used motion-capture technology to record the movements of real-life dance teachers — with their permission.

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Building on the legacy of online tutorials and video games

Dance Guru belongs to a small but growing wave of apps using VR to demystify social dance. At a nearby booth, conference attendee Victor Chen is testing out a competing app called Trip the Light. It currently offers salsa lessons, as well as freestyle options, where a user can dance with a partner without having to learn specific steps.

Trip the Light's booth at the Augmented World Expo included posters of the app's virtual instructors. Real-life performers, who gave Trip the Light permission to motion capture their movements, were used as a basis for these avatars.

Trip the Light’s booth at the Augmented World Expo included posters of the app’s virtual instructors. Real-life performers, who gave Trip the Light permission to motion capture their movements, were used as a basis for these avatars.

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“A lot of times when you’re trying to learn a choreography, it’s watching a YouTube video and you have to pause it, rewind, and play it,” Chen said. “If you were to have a virtual avatar dancing in front of you and correcting for any parts that you missed, it might be a lot easier.”

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How to have the best Sunday in L.A., according to Deidre Hall

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How to have the best Sunday in L.A., according to Deidre Hall

For half a century, Deidre Hall has taken on every kind of disaster in the drama-packed town of Salem, Ill., as a star of “Days of Our Lives.”

There was the time — actually, it happened twice — when her character, Dr. Marlena Evans, was famously possessed by the devil and even levitated.

Sunday Funday infobox logo with colorful spot illustrations

In Sunday Funday, L.A. people give us a play-by-play of their ideal Sunday around town. Find ideas and inspiration on where to go, what to eat and how to enjoy life on the weekends.

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Or the time a serial killer, who was actually Marlena under hypnosis, seemed to kill several beloved characters. The long-running show’s storylines have become legendary, and in March, while promoting “Hail Mary,” actor Ryan Gosling even gave Hall a shout-out, admitting he was a fan, praising the hard work of soap opera actors and calling her an “OG acting inspiration.”

But Hall’s real life in Santa Monica is much quieter than her character’s, and she likes it that way.

“When I bought my house in Santa Monica, I didn’t realize how great it would be to live near Montana Avenue,” says Hall, 78, about the popular shopping spot. Every day, she walks to the main street with her golden retriever, Riley, and enjoys Pilates, art and good food along the way. “The owners of the Farms Market even keep dog biscuits, so guess where the dog wants to go every time we walk — the Farms, of course,” she says, laughing.

When she isn’t filming the daily soap opera, which airs on Peacock, Hall enjoys raising monarch butterflies, exploring the shops and restaurants on Montana, and hosting movie nights at home with her two sons.

Here’s what a perfect day in L.A. looks like for her.

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This interview has been lightly edited and condensed for length and clarity.

7 a.m.: Breakfast and dog walk

I usually kick off my day with a protein shake, feed our golden retriever and take her out for a walk. She’s a phenomenal girl. When we adopted her, her name was Riley, but I did think about naming her after Mrs. Hughes from “Downton Abbey.”

10 a.m.: Church and garden time

After I walk the dog and go to church, I like to spend some time in my yard. I’m not a natural gardener, but I really enjoy it. I started raising monarch butterflies because my identical twin sister, who played my twin on the show, planted a butterfly garden. Monarchs are amazing because they are transitional. Every year, they travel from Mexico to southern New England, but it’s getting harder for them. Their numbers have dropped by about 80%. To help, I plant milkweed, which is what they need to survive. I buy my milkweed from the Staghorn Garden on Wilshire Boulevard in Santa Monica. Julie, who owns the nursery, is delightful and has a wide variety of milkweed. The monarchs always seem to find my garden. Julie was raising some caterpillars too, and she cared a lot about them. We talked about how important it is to help the butterflies. That’s why I do this. Sometimes I get milkweed with eggs already on it, and Julie knows her butterflies are going to a good home.

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1 p.m.: Walk to Montana Avenue for some lunch

I live near Montana and love taking long walks, going to Pilates and trying out the great restaurants nearby, like R+D Kitchen and La La Land. I’m a big fan of the waffles at the Courtyard Kitchen. Just a few days ago, I had a chicken salad on raisin bread with an Arnold Palmer, and it was delicious. It is right on Montana and has a nice outdoor seating area. It’s one of my favorite spots. La La Land always has a long line in the morning, which is perfect if you want coffee. They serve coffee, doughnuts, croissants and avocado toast. There’s plenty of outdoor seating, and you can even bring your dog.

2 p.m.: Peek inside a clock shop

There’s a small clock shop on Montana Avenue that’s closed on Sundays, but if you walk by, you’ll see all kinds of clocks — standing, table and wall clocks. The owner is great at fixing them. Once, I bought a wall clock from MacKenzie-Childs, but it didn’t work. And I was really upset because it matched everything else on my countertop. I brought it to the owner and said, “I love this, but I can’t make it work.” He fixed it right away. His name is John, but I call him Geppetto. And we all know why. He really does have a magic touch.

2:30 p.m.: Visit a neighborhood art gallery

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Ten Women Gallery is run by 10 artists, all of whom show their work there. I was drawn to some watercolors there, bought a few cards and spoke with one of the artists. She told me, “You seem to love watercolors,” and mentioned that the artist who painted them, Pamela Harnois, lives in Los Angeles and teaches nearby. I got Pamela’s name and found out she taught at the Brentwood Art School. I was so inspired by her gift that I started taking private lessons with her on Saturdays. That gallery is where I discovered my love for watercolor painting.

3 p.m.: Grab some ice cream at Rori’s

The other day, my longtime girlfriend wanted to get ice cream and told me, “We are walking to Rori’s Artisanal Creamery.” It’s a small shop on Montana near Lincoln. They make everything themselves, using local ingredients from grass-fed cows with no added hormones. The place is family-owned and probably has the healthiest ice cream you’ll find. They switch up their flavors often, but my favorite is the salted caramel.

6 p.m.: Family dinner and movie night at home

R+D Kitchen is always packed, so my sons, who are 31 and 33, do the cooking. They come over, and together we make salads and cook dinner. There’s a neighborhood grocery store called the Farms, off Montana, a small family-run place that has everything we need. Everyone knows each other there, and people bring their dogs. We try to have movie night every Sunday. Sometimes the day changes, but we always make sure to have one night a week where we cook a meal and sit down as a family. Keeping that tradition has become really important to us. My sons are great cooks, which is funny because they definitely didn’t get that from me. [Laughs]

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9 p.m.: Take Riley for one last walk and visit neighbors

After dinner, I take my dog for a walk. It’s a great way to meet neighbors. We always go around the same block. We’ve met so many people, and since she’s a golden retriever, she loves meeting everyone.

10 p.m.: News, knitting and bedtime

I am a news junkie, so I usually watch whatever is on the news before I go to bed. I have a long-standing passion for knitting. Lately, though, the news would make me drop a stitch.

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Iris van Herpen Reaches for the Stars

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For Iris van Herpen, couture is a laboratory as much as a runway. Our chief fashion critic, Vanessa Friedman, takes us inside this Dutch designer’s latest Paris show — from sci-fi-inspired gowns to an audacious attempt at a dress made of charged plasma.

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