Lifestyle
Fashion’s Historic Shake-Up
Pierpaolo Piccioli for
Balenciaga
Louise Trotter for
Bottega Veneta
Matthieu Blazy for
Chanel
Jonathan Anderson for
Dior
Duran Lantink for
Jean Paul Gaultier
Simone Bellotti for
Jil Sander
Jake Mccollough and Lazaro Hernandez for
Loewe
Glenn Martens for
Maison Margiela
Miguel Castro Freitas for
Mugler
This fall, a dozen of the biggest brands in fashion will have new talent at the helm. What makes them tick?
Welcome to the season of seismic fashion change. The tectonic plates of the industry are shifting, remaking the landscape in a way that hasn’t been seen since … well, ever. This year almost 20 fashion houses, including some of the most famous, influential names (Chanel, Dior, Gucci, Balenciaga), appointed new designers, meaning the clothes you see in stores or on the street, or when you’re immersed in the endless digital scroll, will soon be very different.
After all, each designer will be trying to make their mark, break through the noise and redefine the very idea of chic, not to mention the look of the decade. That’s the opportunity. Those are the stakes.
Yet for all the change taking place, the actual change makers seem, at least on the surface, very much the same.
Of the 13 designers whose work we will see this season, only one is a woman — Louise Trotter, at Bottega Veneta. A dozen are white men, and 10 are between the ages of 40 and 47. Ten are Europeans and three are Americans. Despite the clear need to bring imagination to the catwalk, there seems to be a general lack of imagination when it comes to deciding whom to hire.
To get below the very similar surface, we asked this season’s new guard a set of simple questions — not about their plans for their brands but about their taste: their personal likes and dislikes when it comes to the stuff that surrounds them and the choices they make.
Who are the men and woman who will shape how you dress for the foreseeable future? Read on.
Pierpaolo Piccioli for
Balenciaga
Mr. Piccioli, 57, comes to Balenciaga after 25 years at Valentino, 16 of them as creative director, where he was widely recognized for his bold use of color, his humanity (he regularly brought his entire couture atelier onto the runway for a bow) and his lack of grandiosity. (At Valentino he eschewed living in Rome to stay in the small seaside town where his family grew up.) Mr. Piccioli started his gig at Balenciaga by working alongside Demna, then its creative director, a rarity in fashion (two creative directors overlapping!) but one intended to create an easy transition for the team.
I feel best wearing: My uniform — black tee, black pants
The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: I look at the way they wear the outfit.
I skimp on when buying: I never skimp.
I splurge on: I always splurge.
I am never caught wearing: Cowboy boots
Item I will never give up: My coral pendants on red silk ribbons.
Louise Trotter for
Bottega Veneta
Ms. Trotter, 55, is the first woman to lead Bottega Veneta, the Italian fashion house known for its intrecciato woven handbags, in more than 20 years — and only the second since the house was founded in 1966. A Brit and the mother of three, she was also the first woman to become creative director of Lacoste, which she ran for five years before taking over Carven, a label she put back on the fashion map. Now she is bringing her bent for minimalist luxury and dry wit to Milan.
I feel best wearing: Men’s wear
I splurge on: Vintage watches and jewelry
I am never caught wearing: You can hold me to never wearing paisley.
Item I will never let go of: My grandmother’s wedding ring
Favorite piece of art: It would have to be a portrait. A Lucian Freud, a Franz Gertsch, a Celia Paul.
Favorite cologne: My husband’s
Favorite ice cream flavor: Vanilla! I have a test in a gelateria. If they can master vanilla, they can do anything.
Favorite pen: I use pencils much more. My current pencil is a Black Wing 602 from Japan.
Mr. Rider, 44, didn’t have a traditional fashion education — he went to Brown University — but an early stint at Balenciaga under Nicolas Ghesquière followed by 10 years at Celine under Phoebe Philo and six years as creative director of Polo Ralph Lauren prepared him for his new post. He brought Celine back to the official runway after Hedi Slimane, his immediate predecessor, decided he would be beholden to no schedule but his own, and even brought Anna Wintour back to the front row, Mr. Slimane having banned her from the house. It’s the new open-door policy.
I feel best wearing: Shorts
I am never caught wearing: Sunscreen
Item I will never give up: Dad’s ring
Favorite cologne: Don’t wear it
Favorite stationery: Don’t have any
Favorite ice cream flavor: Coffee
Favorite music for working out: Anything by Timbaland
Favorite flower for saying thank you: Wildflowers
Matthieu Blazy for
Chanel
Mr. Blazy, 41, snagged the most coveted job in fashion in December after a six-month search by Chanel. He will be only the fourth designer in Chanel’s history, tasked with transforming the brand for a new generation. Most recently he did exactly that for Bottega Veneta, with a fashion sleight of hand that made leather look like denim — and leather look like cotton, and leather look like flannel. Now, as he comes home to Paris, he is expected to work a similar alchemy on the pearls, camellias and CCs of the house that Coco built and Karl Lagerfeld redefined.
I feel best wearing: Nothing
I am never caught wearing: A printed T-shirt
Item I will never give up: The broken Bulova Accutron watch my father gave me
Favorite piece of art: “The Three Graces” by Lucas Cranach the Elder
Favorite cologne: Vetiver
Favorite ice cream flavor: Stracciatella
Favorite bed linen: Always white
Favorite music for working out: 1990s Euro dance
Jonathan Anderson for
Dior
Mr. Anderson, 40, made fashion history when he became the first Dior designer since Christian Dior himself to be in charge of both women’s and men’s wear for the house. (Moreover, Mr. Dior dabbled only in men’s pieces and never did a full collection, so in some ways Mr. Anderson is a pioneer.) An 11-year stint at Loewe, where he took the brand from largely irrelevant to one of the hottest names in fashion, with an estimated $2 billion in revenue, convinced LVMH, which owns Dior, that Mr. Anderson was the man to unite the two sides of the couture house. If that wasn’t a big enough gig, he’s still moonlighting as Luca Guadagnino’s costume designer.
I feel best wearing: Nothing
I skimp on when buying: Clothing
I splurge on: Art
I am never caught wearing: Florals
Item I will never let go of: A navy crew-neck sweater
Favorite piece of art: Paul Thek, “Untitled (Diver)”
Favorite cologne: Cheap body deodorant
Favorite stationery: Lined Paper
Favorite dinner party main course: Cottage pie
Favorite car: Land Rover Defender 90
Favorite music for working out: Mash-up of SoundCloud bad remixes
Eyebrows were raised when the mononymic Demna, 44, announced that after a decade, he was leaving Balenciaga, the fashion house he had taken from ivory tower elegance to pop culture phenomenon, to attempt a turnaround at Gucci. The Georgian-born designer, who will split his time between Los Angeles and Milan, now has to prove he can achieve the rare feat of reinventing himself and his (new) house, not merely repeat himself. Fans like Kim Kardashian, Nicole Kidman and Michelle Yeoh will be watching.
I feel best wearing: My own clothes.
The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: Colors
I skimp on when buying: I don’t skimp on much.
Item I will never let go of: My wedding ring.
Favorite ice cream flavor: Vanilla
Favorite cologne: Gucci Envy
Favorite dinner party main course: No idea
Favorite cocktail to order at a bar: Manhattan
Favorite shampoo: Head & Shoulders
Favorite music for working out: I listen to political podcasts when I work out.
Duran Lantink for
Jean Paul Gaultier
Mr. Lantink, 38, founded his namesake label in 2019, a year after Janelle Monáe wore his “vagina” pants in her “Pynk” music video. The Dutch designer won the Andam Special Prize in 2023 and LVMH’s Karl Lagerfeld Special Jury Prize in 2024, but it was a stunt during his fall 2025 ready-to-wear show — putting a topless man in a prosthetic female torso and vice versa — that made him internet famous. He shares a glee in thumbing his nose at propriety with the Gaultier founder, not to mention a facility for using fabric to reshape the body.
I feel best wearing: White
The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: Shoes
I skimp on when buying: Clothes
I splurge on: Books
I am never caught wearing: Latex
Item I will never give up: A 1990s White & Lethal trash shirt by Walter Van Beirendonck that I have since the age of 12
Favorite piece of art: “Fountain” by Marcel Duchamp
Favorite cologne: Brutus by Orto Parisi
Favorite car: Bike
Favorite music for working out: I play tennis, so no music
Simone Bellotti for
Jil Sander
No one ever thought the Swiss label Bally would be a must-see of Milan Fashion Week, but that’s what happened after Mr. Bellotti, 47, took over in 2022 after 16 years behind the scenes at Gucci. At Bally, his penchant for accessorizing rigorous tailoring with strawberries and cowbells demanded that everyone look twice and should serve him well at Jil Sander, where he takes over from Luke and Lucie Meier.
I feel best wearing: Denim and a blue wool sweater
The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: The face and shoes
I am never caught wearing: Skinny pants
Favorite piece of art: “Study after Velázquez’s Portrait of Pope Innocent X” by Francis Bacon
Favorite pen: An old Parker Ciselè in silver from my father
Flowers for saying thank you: For everything, buttercups
Favorite music for working out: Always music, but not for workout
Jack Mccollough and Lazaro Hernandez for
Loewe
Mr. McCollough and Mr. Hernandez, both 47, became the latest Americans in Paris when they were handed the reins of Loewe earlier this year. As part of the deal, they stepped down from Proenza Schouler, the New York label they founded in 2002 (just after graduating from Parsons School of Design) and upped stakes for France, the better to concentrate on Loewe, where they are following in the (large) footsteps of Jonathan Anderson.
I feel best wearing: J: My old clothes. L: New clothes.
The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: J/L: Shoes.
I am never caught wearing: J: Jewelry. L: Flip-flops.
Item I will never give up: L: A small gold chain my mother gave me as a kid that I never take off. J: Our farmhouse in Massachusetts.
Favorite cocktail to order at a bar: J/L: Martini.
Favorite pen: J/L: Pentel mechanical pencil 0.5.
Favorite car: J: Vintage Land Rover Defender. L: Vintage Toyota Land Cruiser.
Glenn Martens for
Maison Margiela
Like Martin Margiela, Glenn Martens, 42, is Belgian. Like Martin Margiela, he went to the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. (Mr. Martens graduated first in his class.) Like Mr. Margiela, he has a propensity for experimentalism and challenging classical ideas of beauty. Moreover, he is not just taking over the house that Mr. Margiela built, he is following in the footsteps of John Galliano, the most recent creative director, and doing double duty at Diesel, which he also designs.
I feel best wearing: Black T-shirt and black denim
The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: Shoes
I skimp on when buying: I buy my deodorant at the supermarket.
I splurge on: Food and drink
I am never caught wearing: Socklets
Item I will never give up: My jewelry: a ring that was my mothers that she wore her whole life, even when she gave birth to my brother and me; another ring that was my dad’s engagement ring, which he received from my mother; and necklaces and trinkets from friends and past lovers. I never take any of them off.
Favorite shampoo: Whatever stops balding
Favorite ice cream flavor: Cookie Dough
Miguel Castro Freitas for
Mugler
Mr. Castro Freitas, 45, was catapulted from unknown to must-know overnight when he was chosen to succeed Casey Cadwallader at Mugler, the house that big shoulders, bigger spectacles and a perfume called Angel built. Still, the Portuguese designer and Central Saint Martins grad has Dior (under John Galliano), Saint Laurent and Dries Van Noten on his résumé.
I feel best wearing: Shorts
The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: Shoes
I am never caught wearing: Red
Item I will never let go of: A black T-shirt
Favorite dinner party main course: Roasted chicken and fingerling potatoes, with lots of garlic, onions and herbs.
Favorite music for working out: Disco or house music
Favorite flowers for saying thank you: A combination of different seasonal flowers, specially if chosen from Debeaulieu, my favorite flower boutique in Paris.
Favorite joke: Current politics
The first Versace creative director who is not actually a Versace, Mr. Vitale, 41, comes to the fashion house after 15 years at Miu Miu, most recently as design director under Miuccia Prada during its period of explosive growth. His experience working with Mrs. P should stand him in good stead at Versace, since the Prada Group acquired the brand with the Medusa logo earlier this year.
I feel best wearing: It’s not that I feel best wearing them, but it takes only one garment to feel dressed, like a pair of socks or maybe a few rings and an earring.
I skimp on: Most things
I splurge on: Gestures. The memory of the response outlasts any object. Admittedly, I spend most money on flowers, especially strong smelling ones like lily of the valley or helichrysum italicum.
I am never caught wearing: A watch
Favorite cologne: I don’t really wear it. I prefer to scent the things around me — bedsheets, underwear, napkins — so I end up creating a kind of personal fragrance from the mix of everything in my space.
Favorite piece of art: A statue at Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli, the Farnese Hercules, which I’m reluctant to even think of as art. The beauty is that it’s just there, like a God among men. It’s Hercules but a little relaxed with a quiet melancholy about him.
Favorite pen: Black Papermate Flair, medium, for both sketching and writing.
Favorite cocktail to order at a bar: I used to work at a bar in Brera called Jamaica — no frills, just a good old-fashioned bar, so I appreciate the simplicity of a vodka soda. Whichever vodka, whichever soda water, it’s impossible to mess up.
Favorite flowers for saying thank you: In the last few weeks I’ve been sending chamomile flowers. There’s nothing grand about chamomile, so it feels like a very honest gesture — quite naked and vulnerable, actually, but that makes it an earnest way to say “Sincerely, thank you.”
Lifestyle
For U.S. figure skating, grief over the D.C. crash makes for a bittersweet Olympics
Maxim Naumov performs in exhibition after being named to the 2026 U.S. Olympic Figure Skating Team at the Enterprise Center in St. Louis on Jan. 11.
Brian Munoz/St. Louis Public Radio
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Brian Munoz/St. Louis Public Radio
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At the U.S. Figure Skating Championships in January, almost exactly a year after he lost his parents — who were also his coaches — Max Naumov won a bronze medal and a spot on the Olympic team.
“Fulfilling the dream that we collectively had as a family since I first was on the ice at five years old … It means absolutely everything,” Naumov, now 24, said from nationals in St. Louis. “And I know they’re looking down, smiling, and proud.”

Last January, when Naumov placed fourth at nationals for the third year in a row, he joined his parents, Vadim Naumov and Evgenia Shishkova, for a heart-to-heart in their hotel room in Wichita, Kan. to talk strategy. He remembers not being able to hug his mom. She was sick and did not want him to fall ill so close to his next competition.
“It was a very productive, emotional and just inspiring conversation,” said Naumov. “My dad said that we have to change our mindset, we have to get more consistent in the areas that we talked about and just overall have a resilient attitude to the entire approach of the season.”
That was one of the last times they spoke.
Naumov flew home to Massachusetts after the event ended. His parents — renowned Russian-born pairs skaters who coached at the Skating Club of Boston — stayed a few extra days in Wichita for an invitation-only development camp for promising young skaters and their support systems.

Many of those skaters, relatives and coaches, including Naumov’s parents, were among the 67 people who died on Jan. 29, 2025, when a U.S. Army Black Hawk helicopter collided with an American Airlines regional jet on its landing at the Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport. The tragedy killed 28 members of the tight-knit figure skating community, many of them based in the Boston and D.C. areas.
The loss of the rising skating stars, beloved parent volunteers and longtime coaches is felt acutely at their home rinks and throughout the entire skating world, especially as the anniversary of the crash approaches. It comes just a week before the start of the Winter Olympics, when Naumov’s story — and the sport itself — will come under an even brighter spotlight.
Maxim Naumov holds a photo of his parents while he waits for his scores after competing in the men’s short program competition during the 2026 U.S. Figure Skating Championships in St. Louis on Jan. 8. His parents were killed last year when an American Airlines regional jet collided with a U.S. Army Blackhawk helicopter over the Potomac River, near Washington, D.C.
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Brian Munoz/St. Louis Public Radio
“They were truly just really good people that we respect, family of choice,” said Doug Zeghibe, the CEO of the Skating Club of Boston, which lost two teenage skaters and their moms, in addition to Naumov’s parents. “And I think we’re at the point now where missing them is turning into: what can we do to honor them and remember them and make sure we carry them forward.”
Many in the skating community told NPR that, a year on, there is a continued focus on honoring the victims’ legacies both on and off the ice. Tributes include makeshift memorials and poignant performances, as well as financial and mental health resources for other young skaters — many of whom have Olympic dreams of their own.
“We’re all feeling a greater sense of purpose,” Zeghibe said.
How skaters are channeling their grief
Those interviewed recalled the days after the crash as a painful blur.
“We were all just in shock and nobody knew what to do,” said Heather Nemier, president of the Washington Figure Skating Club, which has some 1,400 members at roughly half a dozen rinks across the D.C. area. “A lot of kids came to the rink and left because they just felt like they couldn’t skate.”
Heather Nemier, president of the Washington Figure Skating Club at the Ashburn Ice House in Ashburn, Va., where a number of the figure skaters trained who were victims in the air crash last January.
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Tyrone Turner for NPR
The Washington Figure Skating Club lost seven members: three skaters — Franco Aparicio and sisters Everly (Evy) and Alydia (Liddy) Livingston — their coach, and three of their parents. Nemier said the unofficial spots at the Virginia rink where those skaters usually left their stuff sat empty for weeks, since no one wanted to occupy them.
But over the course of the year, she said, their fellow skaters have found ways to process that grief, with help from mental health counselors, therapy dogs, friendship bracelets, letter writing, public memorials and quiet spaces for reflection.
And many have returned to the ice with a newfound motivation. (That was also the case for Naumov, who was unsure if he would skate again until he returned to competition in the summer.)
“I’ve heard a number of [D.C.-area skaters] say, ‘You know, Evy can’t skate anymore but I can, and I’m going to get out there and do my best,’” Nemier said.
At the Ashburn Ice House, a memorial was created with photos and information honoring a coach, three skaters and their parents who died in the crash.
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Tyrone Turner for NPR
Sofia Bezkorovainaya, now 15, did just that. The Virginia-based skater moved the crowd — and the internet — at January’s U.S. Figure Skating Championships in St. Louis with her “Over the Rainbow” short program, a tribute to Everly Livingston, her best friend of nearly a decade.
“If there were flies on the ice, she’d pick them up and bring them to the heater so that they could come back to life,” Bezkorovainaya told NPR after competing in St. Louis. “She always cared about everybody, and she was such an amazing skater.”
For months after the crash, Bezkorovainaya said she was “sad all the time” and feared she would never feel better. She even switched to another Virginia rink because of how empty her old one felt without the familiar faces.
Then she decided to learn Livingston’s choreography and compete with it in her memory.
In the opening and closing moments of the program, Bezkorovainaya said, “I look up to the bright lights up there and I hug myself and I imagine her hugging me.” Her long program is dedicated to her late longtime coach, Inna Volyanskaya, whose distinctive corrections she says she can still hear in her head while practicing.
“Doing these programs was like having them with me this season,” she said. “And before I got on the ice, I could always pray to Inna and Evy and everyone else who I was friends with on that plane … like, ‘Please help me do a clean program today.’”
Bezkorovainaya was one of three skaters at nationals whose program explicitly paid tribute to loved ones lost in the crash. Others, including Naumov, held up photos as they waited for their scores.
Sofia Bezkorovainaya skates during the “Legacy On Ice” U.S. Figure Skating Benefit at Capital One Arena in Washington, D.C., on March 2, 2025. She one of three skaters at nationals whose program explicitly paid tribute to loved ones lost in the crash.
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Scott Taetsch/Getty Images
“I think it’s admirable that they’ve come up with ways of coping with such a terrible loss that is meaningful to them and is meaningful to other people, too,” Nemier said. “And to be able to share that with the public and with the skating community, I think is really important.”
Boston-based Patrick Blackwell, 17, skated to honor his friend Spencer Lane, even including a clip of the music Lane had planned to compete with this season. Blackwell ultimately won gold at the junior level, which he said was “not just for me but the ones who passed a year ago.”
“It’s kind of my gift to Spencer, his dad and every other family member, being able to bring gold home to a place where a lot of lives were lost,” he said.
Clubs look to keep legacies alive
Local and national figure skating organizations are working on more permanent ways to honor the victims’ memories.
And in early March, the U.S. figure skating community came together in Washington, D.C. for “Legacy on Ice,” a benefit show that raised $1.2 million for first responders and victims’ loved ones. It featured moving performances by a huge roster of Olympians, past and present, as well as several young skaters directly affected by the crash, including Naumov.
More recently, the focus has shifted to the next generation of skaters: making sure they remember those who were lost, and making it easier for them to pursue the dreams they shared.
The Skating Club of Boston, for example, has created the “Always Champions Campaign” to fund two permanent scholarships, one in honor of each of the two skaters it lost, with criteria set by their families.
The campaign also aims to rename one of the rinks in Boston and create a memorial wall in honor of the six victims.
Flowers and remembrances are displayed for the six athletes, coaches and family members who perished in a plane crash, at The Skating Club of Boston in Norwood, Mass., on March 25, 2025.
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Charles Krupa/AP
“They were all examples — the skaters, the parents, the coaches — of people who we saw, if not six, seven days out of the week,” said club director Mia Corsini Bailey. “Their commitment to the sport on multiple levels is something that we’re carrying forward.”
In the D.C. area, the Washington Figure Skating Club has endowed trophies in memory of the three skaters it lost, with plans to add the winners’ names to a ringside plaque updated every year.
The club is also using its existing foundation to support young figure skaters through the “Livingston Family Dream Fund,” which was set up by relatives of the family of four. The club used the money to give $1,000 grants to the skaters who participated in this year’s national development camp, according to Nemier. There were eight of them, she said, compared to about a dozen last year.
Another painful dimension of the tragedy, one increasingly top of mind in an Olympic year, is where the skaters returning from last year’s development camp were in their careers: right on the brink of making it to nationals, and beyond.
“Those were some of the kids that could have made it to the next Olympics or the Olympics after that,” said Bezkorovainaya, the junior skater.
Corsini Bailey, of Boston, recalls sitting down with 16-year-old Spencer Lane and his parents to talk about that very prospect just before the national development camp last year, and said she saw a similarly bright future for 13-year-old Jinna Han.
“The talent was there, the star power was there, and they truly were that next generation,” she said. “And now we look to: how are their legacies inspiring that next generation … whether they were their peers or they were the younger skaters who were looking up to them. Again, we carry them with us every single day.”
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Lifestyle
More staff shakeups at the Kennedy Center
A recently installed sign at the Kennedy Center in Washington, D.C., as photographed on Jan. 10. The center’s name change has not been approved by Congress.
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Mandel Ngan/AFP via Getty Images
Two senior staffers have departed the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts in Washington, D.C. — one of whom was officially on the job for less than two weeks.
Kevin Couch had been announced as the Kennedy Center’s new senior vice president of artistic planning on Jan. 16, at which point he was hailed as a “visionary entertainment leader” with “over two decades of experience in artist management, global booking and high-level brand partnerships,” including booking live events in San Antonio, Tulsa, Little Rock and Springfield, Mo.

Couch, who is a drummer, confirmed to NPR on Wednesday evening that he had resigned from the federally funded center, but declined to share any details.
Meanwhile, the Kennedy Center’s senior director of artistic operations, Sarah Kramer, confirmed to NPR on Wednesday evening that she had been fired after a decade working there.
The Kennedy Center did not respond to NPR’s multiple requests for comment.
Since President Trump became chair of the performing arts complex and later moved to change its name to the Trump Kennedy Center, several prominent artists have canceled their planned performances and presentations of their work. Cancellations announced this month include the composer Philip Glass, opera star Renée Fleming, the banjo player Bela Fleck and the Seattle Children’s Theatre. The Kennedy Center has told NPR in prior statements that the artists cancelling have been doing so under pressure from “leftist activists.”
The center’s name change did not receive the required approval from Congress. Last month, Rep. Joyce Beatty (D-Ohio), an ex-officio member of the Kennedy Center’s board, filed a lawsuit against President Trump, the center’s president Richard Grenell, and others over the name change.
Jennifer Vanasco edited this story.
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