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Fashion’s Historic Shake-Up

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Fashion’s Historic Shake-Up

Pierpaolo Piccioli for

Balenciaga

Louise Trotter for

Bottega Veneta

Matthieu Blazy for

Chanel

Jonathan Anderson for

Dior

Duran Lantink for

Jean Paul Gaultier

Simone Bellotti for

Jil Sander

Jake Mccollough and Lazaro Hernandez for

Loewe

Glenn Martens for

Maison Margiela

Miguel Castro Freitas for

Mugler

This fall, a dozen of the biggest brands in fashion will have new talent at the helm. What makes them tick?

Welcome to the season of seismic fashion change. The tectonic plates of the industry are shifting, remaking the landscape in a way that hasn’t been seen since … well, ever. This year almost 20 fashion houses, including some of the most famous, influential names (Chanel, Dior, Gucci, Balenciaga), appointed new designers, meaning the clothes you see in stores or on the street, or when you’re immersed in the endless digital scroll, will soon be very different.

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After all, each designer will be trying to make their mark, break through the noise and redefine the very idea of chic, not to mention the look of the decade. That’s the opportunity. Those are the stakes.

Yet for all the change taking place, the actual change makers seem, at least on the surface, very much the same.

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Of the 13 designers whose work we will see this season, only one is a woman — Louise Trotter, at Bottega Veneta. A dozen are white men, and 10 are between the ages of 40 and 47. Ten are Europeans and three are Americans. Despite the clear need to bring imagination to the catwalk, there seems to be a general lack of imagination when it comes to deciding whom to hire.

To get below the very similar surface, we asked this season’s new guard a set of simple questions — not about their plans for their brands but about their taste: their personal likes and dislikes when it comes to the stuff that surrounds them and the choices they make.

Who are the men and woman who will shape how you dress for the foreseeable future? Read on.

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Pierpaolo Piccioli for

Balenciaga

Mr. Piccioli, 57, comes to Balenciaga after 25 years at Valentino, 16 of them as creative director, where he was widely recognized for his bold use of color, his humanity (he regularly brought his entire couture atelier onto the runway for a bow) and his lack of grandiosity. (At Valentino he eschewed living in Rome to stay in the small seaside town where his family grew up.) Mr. Piccioli started his gig at Balenciaga by working alongside Demna, then its creative director, a rarity in fashion (two creative directors overlapping!) but one intended to create an easy transition for the team.

I feel best wearing: My uniform — black tee, black pants
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‭ The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: I look at the way they wear the outfit.

I skimp on when buying: I never skimp.

‭ I splurge on: I always splurge.

‭I am never caught wearing: Cowboy boots

‭Item I will never give up: My coral pendants on red silk ribbons.
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Louise Trotter for

Bottega Veneta

Ms. Trotter, 55, is the first woman to lead Bottega Veneta, the Italian fashion house known for its intrecciato woven handbags, in more than 20 years — and only the second since the house was founded in 1966. A Brit and the mother of three, she was also the first woman to become creative director of Lacoste, which she ran for five years before taking over Carven, a label she put back on the fashion map. Now she is bringing her bent for minimalist luxury and dry wit to Milan.

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I feel best wearing: Men’s wear

‭ I splurge on: Vintage watches and jewelry

I am never caught wearing: You can hold me to never wearing paisley.

‭Item I will never let go of: My grandmother’s wedding ring

Favorite piece of art: It would have to be a portrait. A Lucian Freud, a Franz Gertsch, a Celia Paul.
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Favorite cologne: My husband’s

Favorite ice cream flavor: Vanilla! I have a test in a gelateria. If they can master vanilla, they can do anything.

Favorite pen: I use pencils much more. My current pencil is a Black Wing 602 from Japan.

Mr. Rider, 44, didn’t have a traditional fashion education — he went to Brown University — but an early stint at Balenciaga under Nicolas Ghesquière followed by 10 years at Celine under Phoebe Philo and six years as creative director of Polo Ralph Lauren prepared him for his new post. He brought Celine back to the official runway after Hedi Slimane, his immediate predecessor, decided he would be beholden to no schedule but his own, and even brought Anna Wintour back to the front row, Mr. Slimane having banned her from the house. It’s the new open-door policy.

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I feel best wearing: Shorts

‭I am never caught wearing: Sunscreen

Item I will never give up: Dad’s ring
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Favorite cologne: Don’t wear it

Favorite stationery: Don’t have any

Favorite ice cream flavor: Coffee

Favorite music for working out: Anything by Timbaland

Favorite flower for saying thank you: Wildflowers
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Matthieu Blazy for

Chanel

Mr. Blazy, 41, snagged the most coveted job in fashion in December after a six-month search by Chanel. He will be only the fourth designer in Chanel’s history, tasked with transforming the brand for a new generation. Most recently he did exactly that for Bottega Veneta, with a fashion sleight of hand that made leather look like denim — and leather look like cotton, and leather look like flannel. Now, as he comes home to Paris, he is expected to work a similar alchemy on the pearls, camellias and CCs of the house that Coco built and Karl Lagerfeld redefined.

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I feel best wearing: Nothing

I am never caught wearing: A printed T-shirt

Item I will never give up: The broken Bulova Accutron watch my father gave me

Favorite piece of art: “The Three Graces” by Lucas Cranach the Elder

Favorite cologne: Vetiver
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Favorite ice cream flavor: Stracciatella

Favorite bed linen: Always white

Favorite music for working out: 1990s Euro dance

Jonathan Anderson for

Dior

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Mr. Anderson, 40, made fashion history when he became the first Dior designer since Christian Dior himself to be in charge of both women’s and men’s wear for the house. (Moreover, Mr. Dior dabbled only in men’s pieces and never did a full collection, so in some ways Mr. Anderson is a pioneer.) An 11-year stint at Loewe, where he took the brand from largely irrelevant to one of the hottest names in fashion, with an estimated $2 billion in revenue, convinced LVMH, which owns Dior, that Mr. Anderson was the man to unite the two sides of the couture house. If that wasn’t a big enough gig, he’s still moonlighting as Luca Guadagnino’s costume designer.

I feel best wearing: Nothing

I skimp on when buying: Clothing
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‭ I splurge on: Art

‭ I am never caught wearing: Florals

‭ Item I will never let go of: A navy crew-neck sweater

Favorite piece of art‬: Paul Thek, “Untitled (Diver)”

Favorite ‭cologne‬: Cheap body deodorant
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Favorite‭ stationery‬: Lined Paper

Favorite dinner party main course‬: Cottage pie

Favorite‭ car‬: Land Rover Defender 90

Favorite ‭music for working out: Mash-up of SoundCloud bad remixes

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Eyebrows were raised when the mononymic Demna, 44, announced that after a decade, he was leaving Balenciaga, the fashion house he had taken from ivory tower elegance to pop culture phenomenon, to attempt a turnaround at Gucci. The Georgian-born designer, who will split his time between Los Angeles and Milan, now has to prove he can achieve the rare feat of reinventing himself and his (new) house, not merely repeat himself. Fans like Kim Kardashian, Nicole Kidman and Michelle Yeoh will be watching.

I feel best wearing: My own clothes.

The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: Colors
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‭ I skimp on when buying: I don’t skimp on much.

‭ Item I will never let go of: My wedding ring.

Favorite ice cream flavor: Vanilla

Favorite ‭cologne‬: Gucci Envy

Favorite‭ dinner party main course: No idea
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Favorite cocktail to order at a bar: Manhattan

Favorite‭ shampoo: Head & Shoulders

Favorite ‭music for working out: I listen to political podcasts when I work out.

Duran Lantink for

Jean Paul Gaultier

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Mr. Lantink, 38, founded his namesake label in 2019, a year after Janelle Monáe wore his “vagina” pants in her “Pynk” music video. The Dutch designer won the Andam Special Prize in 2023 and LVMH’s Karl Lagerfeld Special Jury Prize in 2024, but it was a stunt during his fall 2025 ready-to-wear show — putting a topless man in a prosthetic female torso and vice versa — that made him internet famous. He shares a glee in thumbing his nose at propriety with the Gaultier founder, not to mention a facility for using fabric to reshape the body.

I feel best wearing: White

The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: Shoes
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‭ I skimp on when buying: Clothes

‭I splurge on: Books

I am never caught wearing: Latex

Item I will never give up: A 1990s White & Lethal trash shirt by Walter Van Beirendonck that I have since the age of 12

Favorite‭ piece of art: “Fountain” by Marcel Duchamp
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Favorite cologne: Brutus by Orto Parisi

Favorite‭ car: Bike

Favorite ‭music for working out: I play tennis, so no music

Simone Bellotti for

Jil Sander

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No one ever thought the Swiss label Bally would be a must-see of Milan Fashion Week, but that’s what happened after Mr. Bellotti, 47, took over in 2022 after 16 years behind the scenes at Gucci. At Bally, his penchant for accessorizing rigorous tailoring with strawberries and cowbells demanded that everyone look twice and should serve him well at Jil Sander, where he takes over from Luke and Lucie Meier.

I feel best wearing: Denim and a blue wool sweater

‭ The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: The face and shoes
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‭ I am never caught wearing: Skinny pants

Favorite‭ piece of art: “Study after Velázquez’s Portrait of Pope Innocent X” by Francis Bacon

Favorite pen: An old Parker Ciselè in silver from my father

Flowers for saying thank you: For everything, buttercups

Favorite ‭music for working out: Always music, but not for workout
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Jack Mccollough and Lazaro Hernandez for

Loewe

Mr. McCollough and Mr. Hernandez, both 47, became the latest Americans in Paris when they were handed the reins of Loewe earlier this year. As part of the deal, they stepped down from Proenza Schouler, the New York label they founded in 2002 (just after graduating from Parsons School of Design) and upped stakes for France, the better to concentrate on Loewe, where they are following in the (large) footsteps of Jonathan Anderson.

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I feel best wearing: J: My old clothes. L: New clothes.

‭ The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: J/L: Shoes.

‭ I am never caught wearing: J: Jewelry. L: Flip-flops.

‭ Item I will never give up: L: A small gold chain my mother gave me as a kid that I never take off. J: Our farmhouse in Massachusetts.

Favorite‭ cocktail to order at a bar: J/L: Martini.
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Favorite pen: J/L: Pentel mechanical pencil 0.5.

Favorite car: J: Vintage Land Rover Defender. L: Vintage Toyota Land Cruiser.

Glenn Martens for

Maison Margiela

Like Martin Margiela, Glenn Martens, 42, is Belgian. Like Martin Margiela, he went to the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. (Mr. Martens graduated first in his class.) Like Mr. Margiela, he has a propensity for experimentalism and challenging classical ideas of beauty. Moreover, he is not just taking over the house that Mr. Margiela built, he is following in the footsteps of John Galliano, the most recent creative director, and doing double duty at Diesel, which he also designs.

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I feel best wearing: Black T-shirt and black denim

‭ The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: Shoes

‭ I skimp on when buying: I buy my deodorant at the supermarket.
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‭ I splurge on: Food and drink

I am never caught wearing: Socklets

Item I will never give up: My jewelry: a ring that was my mothers that she wore her whole life, even when she gave birth to my brother and me; another ring that was my dad’s engagement ring, which he received from my mother; and necklaces and trinkets from friends and past lovers. I never take any of them off.

Favorite shampoo: Whatever stops balding

Favorite ice cream flavor: Cookie Dough
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Miguel Castro Freitas for

Mugler

Mr. Castro Freitas, 45, was catapulted from unknown to must-know overnight when he was chosen to succeed Casey Cadwallader at Mugler, the house that big shoulders, bigger spectacles and a perfume called Angel built. Still, the Portuguese designer and Central Saint Martins grad has Dior (under John Galliano), Saint Laurent and Dries Van Noten on his résumé.

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I feel best wearing: Shorts

‭ The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: Shoes

‭I am never caught wearing: Red

Item I will never let go of: A black T-shirt

Favorite dinner party main course: Roasted chicken and fingerling potatoes, with lots of garlic, onions and herbs.
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Favorite music for working out: Disco or house music

Favorite flowers for saying thank you: A combination of different seasonal flowers, specially if chosen from Debeaulieu, my favorite flower boutique in Paris.

Favorite joke: Current politics

The first Versace creative director who is not actually a Versace, Mr. Vitale, 41, comes to the fashion house after 15 years at Miu Miu, most recently as design director under Miuccia Prada during its period of explosive growth. His experience working with Mrs. P should stand him in good stead at Versace, since the Prada Group acquired the brand with the Medusa logo earlier this year.

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I feel best wearing: It’s not that I feel best wearing them, but it takes only one garment to feel dressed, like a pair of socks or maybe a few rings and an earring.

‭ I skimp on: Most things

I splurge on: Gestures. The memory of the response outlasts any object. Admittedly, I spend most money on flowers, especially strong smelling ones like lily of the valley or helichrysum italicum.
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I am never caught wearing: A watch

Favorite cologne: I don’t really wear it. I prefer to scent the things around me — bedsheets, underwear, napkins — so I end up creating a kind of personal fragrance from the mix of everything in my space.

Favorite piece of art: A statue at Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli, the Farnese Hercules, which I’m reluctant to even think of as art. The beauty is that it’s just there, like a God among men. It’s Hercules but a little relaxed with a quiet melancholy about him.

Favorite pen: Black Papermate Flair, medium, for both sketching and writing.

Favorite cocktail to order at a bar: I used to work at a bar in Brera called Jamaica — no frills, just a good old-fashioned bar, so I appreciate the simplicity of a vodka soda. Whichever vodka, whichever soda water, it’s impossible to mess up.
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Favorite flowers for saying thank you: In the last few weeks I’ve been sending chamomile flowers. There’s nothing grand about chamomile, so it feels like a very honest gesture — quite naked and vulnerable, actually, but that makes it an earnest way to say “Sincerely, thank you.”

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Lifestyle

All about character: Jane Austen fans on their favorites

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All about character: Jane Austen fans on their favorites

Jane Austen ready to party for her 250th birthday at the Jane Austen Society of North America’s Annual General Meeting in Baltimore.

Melissa Gray/NPR


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In her six completed novels, Jane Austen excelled at love stories: Elinor and Edward, Lizzie and Darcy, Fanny and Edmund, Emma and Knightley, Anne and Wentworth, heck even Catherine and Tilney. As her fans celebrate the 250th anniversary of her birth, they’d like you to know it’s a mistake to simply dismiss her work as light, frothy romances. It’s full of intricate plots, class satire and biting wit, along with all the timeless drama of human foibles, frailties and resolve.

Tessa Harrings (left) learns English country dance at the Jane Austen Society of North America's 2025 Annual General Meeting

Tessa Harings (left) learns English country dance at the Jane Austen Society of North America’s 2025 Annual General Meeting

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“The basic reason why Austen is still popular today is because all of her characters are people we know in the world,” says Tessa Harings. She’s a high school teacher from Phoenix and one of the more than 900 attendees at the Jane Austen Society of North America’s Annual General Meeting, held in Baltimore this year. “We all know of someone who’s shy and aloof and needs to be brought into the crowd. We all know someone who’s quite witty, naturally. We all know someone who is a bit silly and always looking for attention.”

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Colin Firth, properly memed from the 1995 BBC miniseries. His Darcy is a big favorite with the JASNA crowd.
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Shy and aloof? That could be Darcy. Naturally witty? Lizzie Bennet. Silly and looking for attention? Take your pick: baby sister Lydia or maybe the haughty Caroline Bingley or the unctuous Mr. Collins, all creations from what might be Austen’s most popular novel, Pride and Prejudice.

Her characters have permeated modern pop culture, even among people who’ve never opened her books. Harings says that’s one reason her students want to read these Regency-era novels. They want to understand the jokes in all those short videos and memes, like Mr. Collins making awkward dinner conversation.

He wants a wife, he compliments the potatoes. In Mr. Collin’s head, it makes sense.
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Her students enjoy the tension between Darcy and Lizzie: he’s very rich, so besotted by her against his will that he can hardly dance, glower and talk at the same time. Lizzie initially cannot stand him and refuses his first proposal, as shown in this soggy scene from the 2005 movie adaptation.

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Harings says Lizzie is her favorite Austen character. “She has such sharp, sarcastic wit and she’s so self-confident, despite the fact that she’s constantly being put down by the people around her for her supposedly lower position in life as the slightly less pretty of the mother’s two oldest daughters.”

Dannielle Perry (right) and her assistant Mia Berg of Timely Tresses in their Regency-era togs.

Milliner Dannielle Perry (right) and her assistant Mia Berg of Timely Tresses in their Regency-era togs.

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“When I was a teenager, I loved Lizzie and I wanted to be Lizzie,” says milliner Dannielle Perry of Oxford, N.C. She’s read and reread all of Jane Austen’s books and she loves how they change for her as she’s gotten older. She’s now more sympathetic toward Mrs. Bennet, Lizzie’s mom: a woman desperate to get her five daughters married, least they be penniless since they can’t inherit their father’s estate. “I feel sorry for her in a way I never did before,” Perry says. “She is sort of silly, but she’s lived with a man for 20 years who largely dismisses her and thinks she’s frivolous.”

Doctoral student Katie Yu, of Dallas, has this analysis of Mrs. Bennett and her husband, who seems mentally checked-out at best: “He’s not a great father. He’s always putting his wife down in front of his daughters, he’s putting his daughters down in front of his daughters.” Yu says Mr. Bennet married Mrs. Bennet because she was pretty, treats her as an inferior, and often ignores her. This is why Mrs. Bennet goes on about her nerves and “has the vapors” whenever she’s stressed: she’s trying to get his attention.

“But,” says Tessa Harings, “she still has a level of street smarts that she has to get her daughters married. And yes, she’s sincerely concerned about their future … she actually, of the two of them, is the more concerned and involved parent.”

Tom Tumbusch explains 19th century dance moves to JASNA members.

Tom Tumbusch explains 19th century dance moves to JASNA members.

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Dance instructor Tom Tumbusch, of Cincinnati, says men can learn a lot from Austen. “Modern men struggle to find good role models,” he says. “Reading Austen’s works can help them see the places where men can go wrong.” Mr. Bennet, for example. Or the libertine George Wickham who lies and runs off with the flighty Bennet sister, Lydia. Or maybe Willoughby from Sense and Sensibility, who leads Marianne Dashwood on, ghosts her and is later revealed to have abandoned an unmarried woman who gave birth to his child.

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Oh, Marianne, he’s so not worth it!

On the other hand, Tumbusch says Jane Austen’s heroes can show men “how to be masculine in a constructive way,” like owning mistakes, taking responsibility and treating women with respect. It’s not just Darcy, who works behind the scenes getting Wickham to marry Lydia, it’s also Captain Wentworth from Persuasion. Tombusch says Wentworth does what men of his station should: he uses his own resources to help someone less fortunate, the poor, partially disabled widow Mrs. Smith. And in Sense and Sensibility, there’s the steadfast Col. Brandon. Hoping to make Willoughby’s rejection of Marianne less devastating to her, he exposes the libertine’s behavior. He rides hours to retrieve her mother when Marianne is near death. He patiently, oh-so-patiently, waits for her young, broken heart to mend.

All this while wearing a flannel waistcoat because he’s on the “wrong side of five and thirty” and needs to keep those ancient bones warm.

Before he rocked worlds as Snape, Alan Rickman made the earth move for viewers of the 1995 movie adaptation of Sense and Sensibility.
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JASNA president Mary Mintz, of McLean, Va., says though Jane Austen is largely known for her marriage plots, it’s really the human need for connection that grounds her stories. “She writes about the relationships between parents and children, between siblings or among siblings, she writes about relationships with friends. And she is really insightful. When you combine that with her knowledge of human psychology, it’s a great formula for success.”

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Mintz is fascinated by Emma’s pivotal character, Miss Bates. She’s a spinster and member of the gentry class who lives with her elderly mother on an extremely limited income. She’s also a nervous chatterbox, “someone who can’t stop talking,” says Mintz. “I’ve known a lot of Misses Bates in my lifetime… people who seem insecure and feel as though they have to fill up silence, but are really good-hearted people.”

When Emma is rude to Miss Bates, she’s firmly chastised by her neighbor, Mr. Knightley. It becomes a turn-around moment in the story. Humbled, Emma apologizes. She also sees how she’s been wrong to meddle in the love life of Harriet Smith, a pretty teenager whose parents are unknown.

Mintz says there’s an interesting link between Bates and Harriet, if you put two and two together.

“In Jane Austen’s actual life, mothers and daughters often share the same name,” she explains. That pattern can be seen in many of her novels. “We don’t know who Harriet Smith’s natural mother is, but at one point Miss Bates is referred to as ‘Hetty,’ which could be a diminutive for ‘Harriet.’ “

That’s the first clue. The second clue occurs during that scene where Knightley sets Emma right. He says of Miss Bates, “she has sunk from the comforts she was born to.” He then draws a contrast between the spinster’s current station and her former one: “You, whom she had known from an infant, whom she had seen grow up from a period when her notice was an honour…”

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Emma’s father is quite wealthy, so why would Miss Bates’ notice have once been so esteemed? Mary Mintz asks, “Is because she had a child out of wedlock?”

And could that child be… Harriet Smith?

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The mind: it boggles! A Jane Austen Easter egg! It’s just one example of how multi-dimensional her novels are and why so many people will continue loving, analyzing and discussing her work well into the next 250 years.

Jacob Fenston and Danny Hensel edited and produced this report.

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Rob Reiner and Wife Michele Had Throats Slit By Family Member

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Rob Reiner and Wife Michele Had Throats Slit By Family Member

Rob Reiner And Wife Michele
Throats Slit By Family Member

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Sunday Puzzle: Major U.S. cities

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Sunday Puzzle: Major U.S. cities

Sunday Puzzle

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On-air challenge

I’m going to read you some sentences. Each sentence conceals the name of a major U.S. city in consecutive letters. As a hint, the answer’s state also appears in the sentence. Every answer has at least six letters. (Ex. The Kentucky bodybuilders will be flexing tonight. –> LEXINGTON)

1. Space enthusiasts in Oregon support landing on Mars.

2. Contact your insurance branch or agent in Alaska.

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3. The Ohio company has a sale from today to next Sunday.

4. The Colorado trial ended in a sudden verdict.

5. Fans voted the Virginia tennis matches a peak experience.

6. I bought a shamrock for decorating my house in Illinois.

7. All the Connecticut things they knew have now changed.

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8. Can you help a software developer in Texas?

Last week’s challenge

Last week’s challenge came from Mike Reiss, who’s a showrunner, writer, and producer for “The Simpsons.” Think of a famous living singer. The last two letters of his first name and the first two letters of his last name spell a bird. Change the first letter of the singer’s first name. Then the first three letters of that first name and the last five letters of his last name together spell another bird. What singer is this?

Challenge answer

Placido Domingo

Winner

Brock Hammill of Corvallis, Montana.

This week’s challenge

This week’s challenge comes from Robert Flood, of Allen, Texas. Name a famous female singer of the past (five letters in the first name, seven letters in the last name). Remove the last letter of her first name and you can rearrange all the remaining letters to name the capital of a country (six letters) and a food product that its nation is famous for (five letters).

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If you know the answer to the challenge, submit it below by Thursday, December 18 at 3 p.m. ET. Listeners whose answers are selected win a chance to play the on-air puzzle.

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