Lifestyle
Fashion’s Historic Shake-Up
Pierpaolo Piccioli for
Balenciaga
Louise Trotter for
Bottega Veneta
Matthieu Blazy for
Chanel
Jonathan Anderson for
Dior
Duran Lantink for
Jean Paul Gaultier
Simone Bellotti for
Jil Sander
Jake Mccollough and Lazaro Hernandez for
Loewe
Glenn Martens for
Maison Margiela
Miguel Castro Freitas for
Mugler
This fall, a dozen of the biggest brands in fashion will have new talent at the helm. What makes them tick?
Welcome to the season of seismic fashion change. The tectonic plates of the industry are shifting, remaking the landscape in a way that hasn’t been seen since … well, ever. This year almost 20 fashion houses, including some of the most famous, influential names (Chanel, Dior, Gucci, Balenciaga), appointed new designers, meaning the clothes you see in stores or on the street, or when you’re immersed in the endless digital scroll, will soon be very different.
After all, each designer will be trying to make their mark, break through the noise and redefine the very idea of chic, not to mention the look of the decade. That’s the opportunity. Those are the stakes.
Yet for all the change taking place, the actual change makers seem, at least on the surface, very much the same.
Of the 13 designers whose work we will see this season, only one is a woman — Louise Trotter, at Bottega Veneta. A dozen are white men, and 10 are between the ages of 40 and 47. Ten are Europeans and three are Americans. Despite the clear need to bring imagination to the catwalk, there seems to be a general lack of imagination when it comes to deciding whom to hire.
To get below the very similar surface, we asked this season’s new guard a set of simple questions — not about their plans for their brands but about their taste: their personal likes and dislikes when it comes to the stuff that surrounds them and the choices they make.
Who are the men and woman who will shape how you dress for the foreseeable future? Read on.
Pierpaolo Piccioli for
Balenciaga
Mr. Piccioli, 57, comes to Balenciaga after 25 years at Valentino, 16 of them as creative director, where he was widely recognized for his bold use of color, his humanity (he regularly brought his entire couture atelier onto the runway for a bow) and his lack of grandiosity. (At Valentino he eschewed living in Rome to stay in the small seaside town where his family grew up.) Mr. Piccioli started his gig at Balenciaga by working alongside Demna, then its creative director, a rarity in fashion (two creative directors overlapping!) but one intended to create an easy transition for the team.
I feel best wearing: My uniform — black tee, black pants
The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: I look at the way they wear the outfit.
I skimp on when buying: I never skimp.
I splurge on: I always splurge.
I am never caught wearing: Cowboy boots
Item I will never give up: My coral pendants on red silk ribbons.
Louise Trotter for
Bottega Veneta
Ms. Trotter, 55, is the first woman to lead Bottega Veneta, the Italian fashion house known for its intrecciato woven handbags, in more than 20 years — and only the second since the house was founded in 1966. A Brit and the mother of three, she was also the first woman to become creative director of Lacoste, which she ran for five years before taking over Carven, a label she put back on the fashion map. Now she is bringing her bent for minimalist luxury and dry wit to Milan.
I feel best wearing: Men’s wear
I splurge on: Vintage watches and jewelry
I am never caught wearing: You can hold me to never wearing paisley.
Item I will never let go of: My grandmother’s wedding ring
Favorite piece of art: It would have to be a portrait. A Lucian Freud, a Franz Gertsch, a Celia Paul.
Favorite cologne: My husband’s
Favorite ice cream flavor: Vanilla! I have a test in a gelateria. If they can master vanilla, they can do anything.
Favorite pen: I use pencils much more. My current pencil is a Black Wing 602 from Japan.
Mr. Rider, 44, didn’t have a traditional fashion education — he went to Brown University — but an early stint at Balenciaga under Nicolas Ghesquière followed by 10 years at Celine under Phoebe Philo and six years as creative director of Polo Ralph Lauren prepared him for his new post. He brought Celine back to the official runway after Hedi Slimane, his immediate predecessor, decided he would be beholden to no schedule but his own, and even brought Anna Wintour back to the front row, Mr. Slimane having banned her from the house. It’s the new open-door policy.
I feel best wearing: Shorts
I am never caught wearing: Sunscreen
Item I will never give up: Dad’s ring
Favorite cologne: Don’t wear it
Favorite stationery: Don’t have any
Favorite ice cream flavor: Coffee
Favorite music for working out: Anything by Timbaland
Favorite flower for saying thank you: Wildflowers
Matthieu Blazy for
Chanel
Mr. Blazy, 41, snagged the most coveted job in fashion in December after a six-month search by Chanel. He will be only the fourth designer in Chanel’s history, tasked with transforming the brand for a new generation. Most recently he did exactly that for Bottega Veneta, with a fashion sleight of hand that made leather look like denim — and leather look like cotton, and leather look like flannel. Now, as he comes home to Paris, he is expected to work a similar alchemy on the pearls, camellias and CCs of the house that Coco built and Karl Lagerfeld redefined.
I feel best wearing: Nothing
I am never caught wearing: A printed T-shirt
Item I will never give up: The broken Bulova Accutron watch my father gave me
Favorite piece of art: “The Three Graces” by Lucas Cranach the Elder
Favorite cologne: Vetiver
Favorite ice cream flavor: Stracciatella
Favorite bed linen: Always white
Favorite music for working out: 1990s Euro dance
Jonathan Anderson for
Dior
Mr. Anderson, 40, made fashion history when he became the first Dior designer since Christian Dior himself to be in charge of both women’s and men’s wear for the house. (Moreover, Mr. Dior dabbled only in men’s pieces and never did a full collection, so in some ways Mr. Anderson is a pioneer.) An 11-year stint at Loewe, where he took the brand from largely irrelevant to one of the hottest names in fashion, with an estimated $2 billion in revenue, convinced LVMH, which owns Dior, that Mr. Anderson was the man to unite the two sides of the couture house. If that wasn’t a big enough gig, he’s still moonlighting as Luca Guadagnino’s costume designer.
I feel best wearing: Nothing
I skimp on when buying: Clothing
I splurge on: Art
I am never caught wearing: Florals
Item I will never let go of: A navy crew-neck sweater
Favorite piece of art: Paul Thek, “Untitled (Diver)”
Favorite cologne: Cheap body deodorant
Favorite stationery: Lined Paper
Favorite dinner party main course: Cottage pie
Favorite car: Land Rover Defender 90
Favorite music for working out: Mash-up of SoundCloud bad remixes
Eyebrows were raised when the mononymic Demna, 44, announced that after a decade, he was leaving Balenciaga, the fashion house he had taken from ivory tower elegance to pop culture phenomenon, to attempt a turnaround at Gucci. The Georgian-born designer, who will split his time between Los Angeles and Milan, now has to prove he can achieve the rare feat of reinventing himself and his (new) house, not merely repeat himself. Fans like Kim Kardashian, Nicole Kidman and Michelle Yeoh will be watching.
I feel best wearing: My own clothes.
The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: Colors
I skimp on when buying: I don’t skimp on much.
Item I will never let go of: My wedding ring.
Favorite ice cream flavor: Vanilla
Favorite cologne: Gucci Envy
Favorite dinner party main course: No idea
Favorite cocktail to order at a bar: Manhattan
Favorite shampoo: Head & Shoulders
Favorite music for working out: I listen to political podcasts when I work out.
Duran Lantink for
Jean Paul Gaultier
Mr. Lantink, 38, founded his namesake label in 2019, a year after Janelle Monáe wore his “vagina” pants in her “Pynk” music video. The Dutch designer won the Andam Special Prize in 2023 and LVMH’s Karl Lagerfeld Special Jury Prize in 2024, but it was a stunt during his fall 2025 ready-to-wear show — putting a topless man in a prosthetic female torso and vice versa — that made him internet famous. He shares a glee in thumbing his nose at propriety with the Gaultier founder, not to mention a facility for using fabric to reshape the body.
I feel best wearing: White
The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: Shoes
I skimp on when buying: Clothes
I splurge on: Books
I am never caught wearing: Latex
Item I will never give up: A 1990s White & Lethal trash shirt by Walter Van Beirendonck that I have since the age of 12
Favorite piece of art: “Fountain” by Marcel Duchamp
Favorite cologne: Brutus by Orto Parisi
Favorite car: Bike
Favorite music for working out: I play tennis, so no music
Simone Bellotti for
Jil Sander
No one ever thought the Swiss label Bally would be a must-see of Milan Fashion Week, but that’s what happened after Mr. Bellotti, 47, took over in 2022 after 16 years behind the scenes at Gucci. At Bally, his penchant for accessorizing rigorous tailoring with strawberries and cowbells demanded that everyone look twice and should serve him well at Jil Sander, where he takes over from Luke and Lucie Meier.
I feel best wearing: Denim and a blue wool sweater
The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: The face and shoes
I am never caught wearing: Skinny pants
Favorite piece of art: “Study after Velázquez’s Portrait of Pope Innocent X” by Francis Bacon
Favorite pen: An old Parker Ciselè in silver from my father
Flowers for saying thank you: For everything, buttercups
Favorite music for working out: Always music, but not for workout
Jack Mccollough and Lazaro Hernandez for
Loewe
Mr. McCollough and Mr. Hernandez, both 47, became the latest Americans in Paris when they were handed the reins of Loewe earlier this year. As part of the deal, they stepped down from Proenza Schouler, the New York label they founded in 2002 (just after graduating from Parsons School of Design) and upped stakes for France, the better to concentrate on Loewe, where they are following in the (large) footsteps of Jonathan Anderson.
I feel best wearing: J: My old clothes. L: New clothes.
The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: J/L: Shoes.
I am never caught wearing: J: Jewelry. L: Flip-flops.
Item I will never give up: L: A small gold chain my mother gave me as a kid that I never take off. J: Our farmhouse in Massachusetts.
Favorite cocktail to order at a bar: J/L: Martini.
Favorite pen: J/L: Pentel mechanical pencil 0.5.
Favorite car: J: Vintage Land Rover Defender. L: Vintage Toyota Land Cruiser.
Glenn Martens for
Maison Margiela
Like Martin Margiela, Glenn Martens, 42, is Belgian. Like Martin Margiela, he went to the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. (Mr. Martens graduated first in his class.) Like Mr. Margiela, he has a propensity for experimentalism and challenging classical ideas of beauty. Moreover, he is not just taking over the house that Mr. Margiela built, he is following in the footsteps of John Galliano, the most recent creative director, and doing double duty at Diesel, which he also designs.
I feel best wearing: Black T-shirt and black denim
The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: Shoes
I skimp on when buying: I buy my deodorant at the supermarket.
I splurge on: Food and drink
I am never caught wearing: Socklets
Item I will never give up: My jewelry: a ring that was my mothers that she wore her whole life, even when she gave birth to my brother and me; another ring that was my dad’s engagement ring, which he received from my mother; and necklaces and trinkets from friends and past lovers. I never take any of them off.
Favorite shampoo: Whatever stops balding
Favorite ice cream flavor: Cookie Dough
Miguel Castro Freitas for
Mugler
Mr. Castro Freitas, 45, was catapulted from unknown to must-know overnight when he was chosen to succeed Casey Cadwallader at Mugler, the house that big shoulders, bigger spectacles and a perfume called Angel built. Still, the Portuguese designer and Central Saint Martins grad has Dior (under John Galliano), Saint Laurent and Dries Van Noten on his résumé.
I feel best wearing: Shorts
The first thing I look at in another person’s outfit is: Shoes
I am never caught wearing: Red
Item I will never let go of: A black T-shirt
Favorite dinner party main course: Roasted chicken and fingerling potatoes, with lots of garlic, onions and herbs.
Favorite music for working out: Disco or house music
Favorite flowers for saying thank you: A combination of different seasonal flowers, specially if chosen from Debeaulieu, my favorite flower boutique in Paris.
Favorite joke: Current politics
The first Versace creative director who is not actually a Versace, Mr. Vitale, 41, comes to the fashion house after 15 years at Miu Miu, most recently as design director under Miuccia Prada during its period of explosive growth. His experience working with Mrs. P should stand him in good stead at Versace, since the Prada Group acquired the brand with the Medusa logo earlier this year.
I feel best wearing: It’s not that I feel best wearing them, but it takes only one garment to feel dressed, like a pair of socks or maybe a few rings and an earring.
I skimp on: Most things
I splurge on: Gestures. The memory of the response outlasts any object. Admittedly, I spend most money on flowers, especially strong smelling ones like lily of the valley or helichrysum italicum.
I am never caught wearing: A watch
Favorite cologne: I don’t really wear it. I prefer to scent the things around me — bedsheets, underwear, napkins — so I end up creating a kind of personal fragrance from the mix of everything in my space.
Favorite piece of art: A statue at Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli, the Farnese Hercules, which I’m reluctant to even think of as art. The beauty is that it’s just there, like a God among men. It’s Hercules but a little relaxed with a quiet melancholy about him.
Favorite pen: Black Papermate Flair, medium, for both sketching and writing.
Favorite cocktail to order at a bar: I used to work at a bar in Brera called Jamaica — no frills, just a good old-fashioned bar, so I appreciate the simplicity of a vodka soda. Whichever vodka, whichever soda water, it’s impossible to mess up.
Favorite flowers for saying thank you: In the last few weeks I’ve been sending chamomile flowers. There’s nothing grand about chamomile, so it feels like a very honest gesture — quite naked and vulnerable, actually, but that makes it an earnest way to say “Sincerely, thank you.”
Lifestyle
‘Why does my toddler … ?’ Your kiddo’s most confounding behavior, decoded
Parenting a two year old is such a wild ride. The other day, my son started the morning with an explosion of cuddles, followed immediately by refusing the blueberry muffins he had declared his very favorite the week before. Once we made it through breakfast, the daily Battle of Putting on Shoes was still ahead!
Sometimes, I feel like I’m playing a game of emotional ping pong with my kid. And that can be hard for both me and him to manage.
Fast-changing feelings and defiant behavior are developmentally appropriate for one to three year olds, says pediatric psychologist Roger Harrison. They’re a way of building your kid’s sense of self — and understanding their place in the world.
But for parents, they can often be a source of frustration, he says. When tantrums and power struggles arise from those emotions, it can be easy for us adults to lose our patience.
Reframing your toddler’s boundary-pushing as a means of social and emotional learning might offer some relief, says Harrison, a division chief within the department of child and adolescent psychiatry at Children’s Hospital of Philadelphia.
“When we understand the ‘why’ of certain behaviors and place them within an appropriate developmental context, it allows parents to step back from the emotion and address the behavior strategically,” he says.
Harrison and other child development experts answer questions about common toddler behaviors — and offer advice on how to respond in the situation.
Why does my toddler … say “NO!” to everything, even to things they like?
A toddler’s contrarian nature is just par for the course at this stage of development, says Harrison. In addition to developing more language and cognitive and motor skills at lightning speed, they’re just beginning to understand that they are their own unique person separate from their caregivers. With this new awareness comes a need to test boundaries in order to establish independence.
“Part of that process of figuring out who I am is to learn me in opposition to all the things in the world,” he says.

So if your toddler gives you a resounding “NO!” to his favorite popsicle or book before bedtime, what he might be actually doing is trying to flex his newly discovered self-awareness. His “no” could translate to, “Check this out, Mommy! I’m a person with my own mind and opinions now!”
⭐ Parent tip: What should you do if you need your child to say “yes” to, say, brushing their teeth, getting in their car seat or leaving the playground?
Model a calm response, then kindly but firmly let them know what’s going to happen next, says Jamie Glowacki, a parenting and potty training coach and the author of Oh Crap! I Have a Toddler. You might say: Yes, we do need to leave the playground. You can either go down the slide one more time and walk out with me, or I can carry you out right now.
Why does my toddler … say everything is “mine”?
In Toddlerland, “the rules of ownership are different,” Harrison says. “If it’s mine, it’s mine. If it’s yours and I want it, it’s also mine.”
As a child starts to build their identity and independence, they’ll often try to exert control over their environment through possession, Harrison says. It helps them understand themselves and their attachments in the world.
For example: my mom has black hair, so I have black hair. My sister has a cool toy, so I have a cool toy. I am a kid with black hair and a cool toy! Mine, mine, mine! By making claims like these, a toddler can test the boundaries of their environment to better define who they are.

So if your toddler claims every book in the library is hers or refuses to share even her least favorite stuffie on her playdate — don’t stress, says Harrison. She’s not being selfish, she’s just stretching out that newfound sense of self.
⭐ Parent tip: If you want your kid to share, model then practice the behavior, says early childhood educator Chazz Lewis. For example, in the aftermath of a toy dispute with another child on the playground, teach your toddler to ask for a turn by reaching your palm out assertively and saying, “turn, please,” he says. Do a few practice rounds before sending them back out to play.
Why does my toddler … want to lick/smash/crash into everything?
Does your little one love to spill every container they can get their hands on, lick colorful wallpaper or bounce against your living room like it’s a life-size pinball machine?
They may simply be trying to gain some sensory information about their surroundings, says Layne Deyling Cherland, a longtime preschool teacher-turned-content creator who focuses on adult-toddler dynamics.
To them, every action and interaction is a chance to gather more data about themselves and how things work. “What’s me and what’s not me? What effect do I have on the world? That’s what all this experimenting is,” says Deyling Cherland.
They may also be craving proprioceptive input, like the deep pressure gained from tight hugs or the strength-building from climbing on playground equipment, she says.
Toddlers crave these types of sensory experiences in part because it builds up their internal sense of position and movement, which is important for coordination, balance and even self-regulation.
⭐ Parent tip: As long as she’s safe, let your little one explore, says Deyling Cherland. Embracing weirdness or silliness can be an opportunity for connection and a key to disrupting power struggles.
Make an obstacle course with pillows and stuffies to get those zoomies out, then race through it together. Dole out some new or favorite snacks into separate bowls and have your picky eater play a game of blind taste-testing.
Why does my toddler … keep doing that thing I told them not to do 100 times?
No running in the kitchen! I said, don’t run in the kitchen! You have 10 seconds to stop running in the kitchen or you’re in big trouble, missy!
If you’re repeating yourself a bunch with your toddler, you’ve likely already lost control of the situation, says Glowacki.
From a comprehension standpoint, your average toddler doesn’t yet grasp the concept of negation, Lewis says. So when you say don’t run in the kitchen, what your child is more likely to understand from that sentence is: run in the kitchen.
More importantly, simply telling a kid what you don’t want them to do doesn’t give them any tools for how to behave successfully in the future, he says.
⭐ Parent tip: Instead of telling your toddler what they’re doing wrong, teach them how to solve the problem or what they should do instead, says Lewis. If you want your kid to stop running in the kitchen, you might say, “walk slowly in the kitchen.” Or maybe, “please walk slowly and gently on the tile floor so you don’t hurt yourself.”
“Now, there’s a chance they might actually do something different this time,” Lewis says.
Why does my toddler … hate switching activities?
Wake up! Change clothes! Eat breakfast! Toddlers are bossed around all day long, often with little understanding and even less say in their daily schedule.
While toddlers thrive on routine and consistency, transitioning from one task to another can be frustrating, Glowacki says. The break in continuity can be unsettling, especially when they’re immersed in an activity that gives them a sense of comfort and independence, like playtime or bath time. Those moments are also one of the very few pieces of the world she can exert any agency over, so that loss of control can feel acute.
Add to that hunger, sleepiness, overstimulation — daily factors that would stress out any other human — and those transition periods can become triggers for volatile emotions and tantrums, she says.
⭐ Parent tip: The next time your little one throws a fit about transitioning from playtime to dinnertime, try to remember that the change is huge for her, says Glowacki.
Put a little power back into her hands by offering two positive choices, Lewis says. For example: Blue plate or purple plate? Juice or milk? This gives her agency but allows you to safely steer her where she needs to go.
“The goal of toddlerhood is to give a child manageable pieces of personal power to practice with,” Deyling Cherland says. “We want them to have practiced enough so that when they are this young adult going out into the world, they know, ‘This is how I make decisions. My decisions do affect other people.’ “
The digital story was edited by Malaka Gharib, with art direction by Beck Harlan. We’d love to hear from you. Leave us a voicemail at 202-216-9823, or email us at LifeKit@npr.org.
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Lifestyle
L.A. Affairs: My search for a three-way offered something more: true friendship
On a Saturday night during April of last year, I found myself at La Cita, a bar in downtown L.A., with my best friend Sam. We had just come from a Springfest concert at USC, where I was a master’s student, and we felt like continuing the night.
It ended with me meeting Gil, a former UCLA student with a mustache-and-goatee combo and a sarcastic sense of humor.
Over the summer, Gil and I kept texting and would meet up here and there. At one point, my other friend from school and I ended up at a bar by his house. I told him he should join us.
“What, like a three-way?” he responded jokingly.
That joke opened Pandora’s box, because the next thing I knew, he asked me if I ever had a three-way. I told him no, but I wanted to give it a try. I’m bisexual. He told me that we should arrange one.
He learned about an app called 3Fun, where couples can meet a “unicorn,” or a person willing to join a couple for some sexual fun. However, I noticed that the app was disproportionately outnumbered by couples than by single girls. So we realized we needed another strategy.
He knew I had my Hinge set to “girls” already, so he suggested I ask some of the women there if they wanted to have a three-way with us. I’m not exactly sure how we didn’t get banned from Hinge, but over the next couple months, in my free time, that is what I did. I went searching for possibilities.
In the winter, work was slow, so I had more time. I matched with a woman named Natalia. She was from another state but she was in Los Angeles, staying with her sister for the holidays. I asked her when she was available.
The only days she was free to meet up were days Gil was out of town, but one of her available days was New Year’s Eve.
I didn’t have any plans and I wanted to go out and party. So we did. We met at a bar to talk first, then we went to a club and danced all night. She was my New Year’s kiss and became one of my best friends. We started talking every day after that on text, direct messages on Instagram and TikTok. We told each other about everything going on in our lives and shared funny Reels. I even went to visit her in Texas for her birthday.
A few months later, I went into one of the worst depressions of my life. It usually hits at the beginning of every year. At the same time, Gil and I started drifting apart. I still had my Hinge open to girls, but I didn’t actively use the app.
One day in February, I got a direct message from Genesis, whom I matched with a couple months before but didn’t talk to for long. She told me she had just left a bad relationship and wanted to talk about it with someone. She didn’t have a lot of other friends to turn to.
I knew what that was like. Three years before, I had been in an abusive relationship in which my ex isolated me from my friends. After I got out of that five-year relationship, my best friend Sam started taking me to clubs, and that helped me to have fun and build more confidence. I thought the same effort could help Genesis.
I told her that we should go to Beso, a new club in Downey not far from where she lives. When I pulled up to her house, I had two blue BuzzBallz cocktails for us each. As we pre-gamed, we vented about men and how we felt so many of them were untrustworthy.
It felt nice to talk and relate to her.
Later, as we lined up to get into Beso, she was worried the drinks at the club would be expensive. But I told her not to worry. We wouldn’t be the ones paying for them.
Within two minutes of being at Beso, two guys bought us drinks. We did some laps around the dance floor and found a group of girls to join. (We still follow them on Instagram.) At the end of the night, some guys invited us to their barbershop to keep drinking, so we went. The next night, I woke up on Genesis’ couch. She became my partner in crime.
Genesis and I went out every weekend after that. We’d go to clubs like the Reserve and the Yost, and we’d always make new friends each time that we went out.
One time, we followed DJs home to their trap house and stayed there until the afternoon of the next day. Another time, we ended up stranded on Hollywood Boulevard with both of our phones dead. I felt like I finally met someone as wild as me.
At the same time I started hanging out with Genesis, I found Lindsay, whom I also met on Hinge. She introduced me to upscale parties and promoters so I could get into VIP sections. Together, Lindsay and I got into bottle service at Poppy, the nightclub on La Cienega Boulevard, to see rapper Mike Sherm, who follows her on Instagram.
Lindsay is a model, so I’d go to photo shoots with her. With Lindsay, I always felt like a bad bitch. In June, I went to see the Weeknd at the SoFi Stadium with Lindsay and Natalia.
What I love about Natalia, Genesis and Lindsay is that they always listen, give me advice and remind me I deserve someone who will put as much effort into a relationship as I do. I realized that the love I was searching for was actually with those girls who were there for me throughout the whole thing. I was looking for a third, but I ended up finding three best friends.
The author is an independent journalist in Los Angeles. She lives in Hacienda Heights. Her Substack is victoriaevalenzuela.substack.com.
L.A. Affairs chronicles the search for romantic love in all its glorious expressions in the L.A. area, and we want to hear your true story. We pay $400 for a published essay. Email LAAffairs@latimes.com. You can find submission guidelines here. You can find past columns here.
Lifestyle
A few things to consider before committing a museum heist
A forensics officer examines the cut window and balcony of a gallery at the Louvre Museum which was the scene of a robbery on October 19 in Paris.
Kiran Ridley/Getty Images
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Kiran Ridley/Getty Images
The glamorous image of art heists often conjures up Bond-villain masterminds orchestrating elaborate schemes. Laure Beccuau, the lead prosecutor in the recent Louvre case involving the theft of more than $100 million worth of historic jewelry, suggested in an interview on French news channel BFMTV this week that the job could be the work of organized crime or commissioned by a major “sponsor.”
But lawyer Christopher Marinello, founder and CEO of Art Recovery International, a London and Venice-based group specializing in tracking down stolen works of art, dismisses the latter Hollywood scenario. “There have been questions about some sort of slippery Dr. No-type character who’s ordering these thefts from afar for his personal collection in his underwater lair,” said Marinello. “But in 39 years of working on art recovery cases, I have never seen a theft-to-order case.”
Stealing art can, in fact, be far from lucrative. No reputable buyer will touch recognizable stolen pieces, which typically sell for just a fraction of their true value on the black market. “If you steal a Picasso, you have to keep it a Picasso,” Marinello said. “It has to stay in one piece.”

However, Marinello said there’s a much bigger upside to stealing diamond tiaras and emerald necklaces because they can be broken up and sold off as individual gems. “That can be done as simply as sewing the stones inside a jacket, driving outside of France and going to a place like Tel Aviv or Antwerp where they have jewelry centers and experts who will recut larger stones into smaller stones,” Marinello said. “And then you’ve gotten away with the crime of the decade.”
Relatively light penalties add to the temptation. Stealing a major artwork from a U.S. museum carries a maximum 10-year sentence under federal law and a potential fine, with similar penalties in France. And many museums are also easy targets.
“For well-known pieces of artwork, because their black market value is so low, there’s already very little incentive for criminals to go after those pieces,” said Frederick Chen, an economics professor at Wake Forest University who has co-authored a paper on the economics of art heists. “And so there’s less incentive for museums to invest in security.”

Chen said museums are even less likely to protect artifacts that don’t drive ticket sales. “From the thieves’ perspective, you already know the museum isn’t going to have security that’s going to be as strong as going to, say, a Tiffany’s,” Chen said.
Myles Connor, an 82-year-old veteran art thief who stole a Rembrandt from Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts in 1975 among other crimes and served substantial prison time, agrees museums are vulnerable. “Most museums don’t have armed guards,” he said. “And so if you’re armed and determined, you can grab almost any painting out of almost any museum. And you can also do that with jewelry.”

But Connor says it’s a bad idea to break up valuable jewelry, like pieces found in museums. “If you break them up, you destroy the value of the items and you’d kind of be low-balling yourself,” he said.
Connor said there’s a better way to cash out. “When I stole paintings from museums, it was always with the intention of returning the painting and getting a reward.” Connor said he received $50,000—about $300,000 in today’s money—for returning the Rembrandt.

He said he hopes the Louvre thieves will follow his playbook, adding “I’m sure the reward will be substantial.”
The French government hasn’t yet announced any reward – though some experts, including Anthony Amore, the head of security and chief investigator at Boston’s Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, itself a target of art theft, have publicly called for it.

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