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Eric Wareheim wants to feed you steak

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Eric Wareheim wants to feed you steak

For three years, Eric Wareheim ate a lot of steak.

We’re talking three steakhouse meals a day, complete with sides and sauces. Towers of onion rings stacked high, bone-in rib-eyes, bubbling pots of lobster mac and cheese, fries and meats drowning in au poivre. His mission in traversing the country was, in part, figuring out how to define the “uniquely American” institution at the center of his new cookbook, “Steak House: The People, The Places, The Recipes.”

The comedian and director who made his name with the TV series “Tim and Eric Awesome Show, Great Job!” has, in recent years, dipped into the wine trade as a co-founder of Las Jaras and launched a plant-art business. But of all his enterprises and hobbies, “Steak House” proved the most demanding — and one of the most rewarding.

“I went deep and I don’t regret it,” he said from a red leather booth at the Smoke House in Burbank.

Eric Wareheim’s new cookbook, “Steak House,” surrounded by a classic spread from Smoke House.

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(Gabriella Angotti-Jones / For The Times)

Wareheim, co-author Gabe Ulla and photographer Marcus Nilsson originally set out to document the country’s 10 “best” steakhouses, but ended up visiting more than 70 restaurants — and went so far over budget that Wareheim began financing their research himself. It‘s been a long time, he said, since he’s felt that deep passion and conviction for a project.

“I could honestly say this project was more work-intensive and longer than any project I’ve done, any film or TV show I wrote,” Wareheim said. “Because I really care about the people, it was bigger than just vanity. It was important that I did it right.”

Making of a steak maven

Through Wareheim’s travels in entertainment, wine and food, he’s dined at some of the finest restaurants in the world. But he‘s never forgotten the steakhouse of his childhood, which wasn’t so much a classic interpretation but a place called Seafood Shanty, located in the largest mall in Pennsylvania. He fell in love with the large booths, the AC cranked up high, the seafood and the steak.

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While Wareheim smells the cork of a freshly opened bottle of red wine.

While Wareheim loves a martini (gin, stirred and garnished with blue cheese olives, ideally), “Steak House” devotes a chapter to pairing wines with steak. His winery, Las Jaras, just released a Steak House Cabernet Sauvignon for the occasion.

(Gabriella Angotti-Jones / For The Times)

Later, he learned his way around eating rib-eye in a tuxedo as co-host of the long-running Beefsteak — an annual steak-centered fundraiser at Neal Fraser’s Vibiana in the spirit of the 1930s-era utensil-less meat feasts described in a classic Joseph Mitchell story.

But it’s not just the steak that Wareheim loves. The comfort and gravitas of a carpeted, worn dining room and a menu that rarely changes are also essential to Seafood Shanty and steakhouses across the country.

“I think that’s the bigger story of this book: the giving of joy that these places do,” he said. “It is their job. It isn’t their job to get a Michelin star. It isn’t their job to get on a blog or make some new dish to wow some hipster. It’s to make the same consistent food for a person that’s been coming here for 50 years.”

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And in a time when the country feels more fragmented than ever, Wareheim sees it as a kind of connective tissue. “Everyone,” he said, “loves a steakhouse.”

The son of a German immigrant, Wareheim set out to understand the web of cultural influences that contribute to the modern American steakhouse: There are spotlights on David Chang’s interpretation at L.A.’s Majordomo, where flatbread — or bing — replace traditional dinner rolls and the prime rib features a shio koji rub. Did a fully Vietnamese version of the steakhouse exist? What about a Mexican iteration?

“There are parts of this country that still feel like the Wild West, in a good way,” Wareheim said. “You can experiment, you can be anyone and open up a steakhouse. You can just do your own thing.”

Los Angeles and Las Vegas steakhouses, he believes, lean into the Rat Pack era of red leather booths and massive shrimp cocktails. But by no means do steakhouses need to follow that path, or any other.

Prime cuts

“Steak House” is 200 pages of sheer Americana, and a slice of quick-disappearing history.

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Places “were closing, literally, a week after we were there, or bought up by restaurant groups,” Wareheim said. By the time he’d made it to Cattlemen’s, in Dallas, half of it was already demolished to make way for more modern renovations. “Steak House” arrived right on time to capture some of the country’s best mom-and-pop operations.

He’d been searching for inspiration, unsure how to follow his 2021 bestselling cookbook, “Foodheim.”

While shooting a commercial with his longtime creative partner Tim Heidecker, surrounded by large corporate chains in North Carolina, Wareheim took to researching nearby restaurants: a pastime while on the road for every gig.

“That’s all that matters,” he said. “The job doesn’t matter. It’s like, ‘Where are we eating?’”

Wareheim’s restaurant-curator reputation was on the line: Beef ’N Bottle, which he’d found on Google, was an hour from their hotel and he was the only one who wanted to make the drive.

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“We get there, and it’s just perfection,” he said. “It was like a William Eggleston photo. And then we met Jerome [Williams], and he greeted us with open arms and said, ‘You guys have a great time tonight, I’m your server and your bartender, what kind of martini do you want?’ And those three things? I get goosebumps just telling you.”

Williams and the other faces and roles that provide the charm and hospitality of a steakhouse are featured throughout, adding context and personality to a tome that provides recipes and history as well as a glimpse behind the curtain. There’s the “cellar rat” turned sommelier who worked at Tampa’s Bern’s for over three decades. There’s Chicago’s Durpetti family, who’ve been serving Italian and steakhouse classics and employ a valet who might even offer you cigarettes from his own stash. There’s the “legend” Katrina, a dancer and bartender at Portland’s famous strip club-cum-steakhouse, Acropolis.

“Meeting the people who make these places run was a joy, and how passionate they were is as passionate as I am,” Wareheim said.

Eric Wareheim poses atop a red booth while holding his new cookbook

Wareheim’s new cookbook, “Steak House,” dives deeper than recipes, with portraits and profiles of the chefs, servers and cleaning staff who make steakhouses run.

(Gabriella Angotti-Jones / For The Times)

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To find these places and people, Wareheim researched restaurants online and asked chef and entertainment friends their personal favorites. (The resounding winner? The Golden Steer in Las Vegas.)

He received rare, full access to Peter Luger in New York City and recipe guidance from the likes of Sean Brock, Jon Shook, Vinny Dotolo and Fraser. When restaurants couldn’t divulge their secret recipes, some attempts required a full reverse-engineering to figure them out — a specialty of L.A.-based recipe developer and food stylist Jasmyn Crawford. A lot of their own recipes, Wareheim said, turned out better than the originators.

He and his team accumulated so much material that they had to cut dozens of profiles and recipes from the final product, a process that Wareheim called excruciating.

“It was brutal,” he said. “It was harder than any film I’ve cut, any video, any piece of writing.”

What remained in “Steak House” were Wareheim’s prime cuts. T-Pain shows off his favorite haunt in Atlanta. In L.A., At Taylor’s in L.A., Wareheim sits down with Bob Odenkirk, Heidecker and John C. Reilly, and they discuss past jobs working in restaurants. (Notably omitted from the book is the fact that as a teen, Wareheim used to flip burgers and would make six for himself, then eat them while hiding in the bathroom; a co-worker narced and he was fired.)

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Wareheim is just as interested in rumination as recipe.

What makes a steakhouse? Does it require attention to marbling and dry aging? Must it serve creamed spinach? Can it be Seafood Shanty, tucked into a sprawling mall in Southeast Pennsylvania? The train of thought derails as soon as the server at Smoke House presents a large silver tray, its display slices of cakes layered and its pies adorned with ice cream.

An enthusiastic “Oh wow!” escapes Wareheim’s lips before he orders the coconut cake. Why bother classifying the steakhouse at all when you can simply be wowed by it?

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Movie Reviews

FILM REVIEW: ROSE OF NEVADA – Joyzine

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FILM REVIEW: ROSE OF NEVADA – Joyzine

‘4’, the opening track on Richard D James’ (Aphex Twin) self titled 1996 album is a piece of music that beautifully balances the chaotic with the serene, the oppressive and the freeing. It’s a trick that James has pulled off multiple times throughout his career and it is a huge part of what makes him such an iconic and influential artist. Many people have laid the “next Aphex Twin” label on musicians who do things slightly different and when you actually hear their music you realise that, once again, the label is flawed and applied with a lazy attitude. Why mention this? Well, it turns out we’ve been looking for James’ heir apparent in the wrong artform. We’ve so zoned in on music that we’ve not noticed that another Celtic son of Cornwall is rewriting an art form with that highwire balancing act between chaos and beauty. That artist is writer, director and composer Mark Jenkin who over his last two feature films has announced himself as an idiosyncratic voice who is creating his very own language within the world of cinema. Jenkin’s films are often centred around coastal towns or islands and whilst they are experimental or even unsettling, there is always a big heart at the centre of the narrative. A heart that cares about family, tradition, culture, and the pull of ‘home’. Even during the horror of 2022’s brilliant Enys Men you were anchored by the vulnerability and determination of its main protagonist. 

This month sees the release of Jenkin’s latest feature film, Rose of Nevada, which is set in a fractured and diminished Cornish coastal town. One day the fishing boat of the film’s title arrives back in harbour after being missing for thirty years. The boat is unoccupied. And frankly that is all the information you are going to get because to discuss any more plot would be unfair on you and disrespectful to Jenkin and the team behind the film.  You the viewer should be the one who decides what it is about because thematically there are so many wonderful threads to pull on. This writer’s opinions on what it is about have ranged from a theme of sacrifice for the good of a community to the conflict within when part of you wants to run away from your roots whilst the other half longs to stay and be a lifelong part of its tapestry. Is it about Brexit? Could be. Is it about our own relationships with time and our curation of memory? Could be. Is it about both the positives and negatives of nostalgia? Could be. As a side note, anyone in their mid-40s, like me, who came of age in the 1990s will certainly find moments of warm recognition. Is the film about ghosts and how they haunt families? Could be…I think you get the point. 

The elements that make the film so well balanced between chaos and calm are many. It is there in the differing performances between the brilliant two lead actors George MacKay and Callum Turner. It is there in the sound design which fluctuates from being unbearably harsh and metallic, to lulling and warm. It is there in the editing where short, sharp close ups on seemingly unimportant factors are counterbalanced with shots that are held for just that little bit too long. For a film set around the sea, it is apt that it can make you feel like you’re rolling on a stomach churning storm one minute, or a calming low tide the next. Dialogue can be front and centre or blurred and buried under static. One shot is bathed in harsh sunlight whilst the next can be drowned in interior shadows. 

Rose of Nevada is Mark Jenkin’s most ambitious film to date yet he has not lost a single iota of innovation, singularity of vision or his gift for telling the most human of stories. It is a film that will tell you different things each time you see it and whilst there are moments that can confuse or beguile, there is so much empathy and love that it can leave you crying tears of emotional understanding. It is chaotic. It is beautiful. It is life……

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Rose of Nevada is released on the 24th April. 

Mark Jenkin Instagram | Threads 

Released through the BFI – Instagram | Facebook

Review by Simon Tucker

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Larry David discusses ‘Curb Your Enthusiasm,’ ‘Seinfeld’ legacies and new HBO series

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Larry David discusses ‘Curb Your Enthusiasm,’ ‘Seinfeld’ legacies and new HBO series

Inside the ornate Bovard Auditorium, Larry David kept a full audience in stitches as he discussed the creation and legacy of his improv hit, “Curb Your Enthusiasm,” which concluded in 2024 after 12 seasons.

In a conversation with Lorraine Ali — who wrote “No Lessons Learned: The Making of Curb Your Enthusiasm,” which retraces the show’s 24-year run with cast interviews, episode guides and behind-the-scenes material — David reflected on the separation between himself and the abrasive on-screen persona he adopted for more than two decades.

“I wish I was that Larry David,” he said.

David spoke about the outrageous audition process for “Curb,” wherein actors tried to navigate a brief written scenario without any dialogue to guide them as David lambasted them in character. Out of this process came iconic one-liners and beloved characters, such as Leon, played by J.B. Smoove.

“People bring out certain things, and when I would act with them, some of them would make me seem funny,” David said. “I go, ‘Oh, that’s good — let’s give him a part.’”

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David cited “Palestinian Chicken” as one of his favorite episodes of the show. In the episode, David is caught between a delicious new Palestinian chicken restaurant, a Palestinian girlfriend and an outraged inner circle of Jewish friends.

He also spoke briefly about his upcoming episodic HBO series, “Life, Larry and the Pursuit of Happiness,” a historical spoof that will retrace United States history for the country’s 250th founding anniversary. The series will premiere on Aug. 7.

“A lot of wigs, costumes, beards — fake beards,” David said. “Nothing worse than fake beards.”

The controversial ending of “Seinfeld,” which David co-wrote with comedian Jerry Seinfeld, was polarizing among fans when it was released, David said. After a recent rewatch, however, David said he thought it was “pretty good,” to a round of applause from the audience.

Near the end of the panel, an audience member asked a question some definitely had on their mind: Will “Seinfeld” ever get a reunion?

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“No,” David replied without missing a beat.

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‘Hen’ movie review: György Pálfi pecks at Europe’s migrant crisis through the eyes of a chicken

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‘Hen’ movie review: György Pálfi pecks at Europe’s migrant crisis through the eyes of a chicken

A rogue chicken observes the world around it—and particularly the plight of immigrants in Greece—in Hen, which premiered at last year’s Toronto International Film Festival and is now playing in Prague cinemas (and with English subtitles at Kino Světozor and Edison Filmhub). This story of man through the eyes of an animal immediately recalls Robert Bresson’s Au Hasard Balthazar (and Jerzy Skolimowski’s more recent EO), but director and co-writer György Pálfi (Taxidermia) maintains a bitter, unsentimental approach that lands with unexpected force.

Hen opens with striking scenes inside an industrial poultry facility, where eggs are laid, processed, and shuttled along assembly lines of machinery and human hands in an almost mechanized rhythm of production. From this system emerges our protagonist: a black chick that immediately stands apart from the others, its entry into the world defined not by nature, but by an uncaring food industry.

The titular hen matures quickly within this environment before being loaded onto a truck with the others, presumably destined for slaughter. Because of her black plumage, she is singled out by the driver and rejected from the shipment, only to be told she will instead end up as soup in his wife’s kitchen. During a stop at a gas station, however, she escapes.

What follows is a journey through rural Greece by the sea, including an encounter with a fox, before she eventually finds refuge at a decaying roadside restaurant run by an older man (Yannis Kokiasmenos), his daughter (Maria Diakopanayotou), and her child. Discovered by the family’s dog Titan, she is placed in a coop alongside other chickens.

After finding a mate in the local rooster, she lays eggs that are regularly collected by the man; in one quietly unsettling scene, she watches him crack them open and cook them into an omelet. The hen repeatedly attempts to escape, as we slowly observe the true function of the property: it is being used as a transit point for migrants arriving in Greece by boat, facilitated by local criminal figures.

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Like Au Hasard Balthazar and EO, Hen largely resists anthropomorphizing its animal protagonist. The hen behaves as a hen, and the humans treat her accordingly, creating a work that feels unusually grounded and almost documentary in texture. At the same time, Pálfi allows space for the audience to project meaning onto her journey, never fully closing the gap between instinct and interpretation.

There are moments, however, where the film deliberately leans into stylization. A playful montage set to Ravel’s Boléro captures her repeated escape attempts from the coop, while a romantic musical cue underscores her brief pairing with the rooster. These sequences do not break the realism so much as refract it, gently encouraging us to read emotion into behavior that remains, on the surface, purely animal.

One of the film’s central narrative threads is the hen’s search for a safe space to lay her eggs without them being taken away by the restaurant owner. This deceptively simple instinct becomes a powerful thematic mirror for the film’s human subplot involving migrant trafficking. Pálfi draws a stark, often uncomfortable parallel between the treatment of animals as commodities and the treatment of displaced people as disposable bodies moving through a similar system of exploitation.

The film takes an increasingly bleak turn toward its climax as the migrant storyline comes fully into focus, sharpening its allegorical intent. The juxtaposition of animal and human vulnerability becomes more explicit, reinforcing the film’s central critique of systemic indifference and violence. While effective, this escalation feels unusually dark, and our protagonist’s unknowing role feels particularly cruel.

The use of animal actors in Hen is remarkable throughout. The hen—played by eight trained chickens—is seamlessly integrated into the film’s world, with seamless editing (by Réka Lemhényi) and staging so precise that at times it feels almost impossible without digital augmentation. While subtle effects work must assist at certain moments, the result is convincing throughout, including standout sequences involving a fox and a dog.

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Zoltán Dévényi and Giorgos Karvelas’ cinematography is also impressive, capturing both the intimacy of the hen’s low vantage point and the broader Greek landscape with striking clarity. The camera’s proximity to the animal world gives the film a distinct visual grammar, grounding its allegory in tactile observation rather than abstraction.

Hen is a challenging but often deeply affecting allegory that extends the tradition of animal-centered cinema while pushing it into harsher political territory. Pálfi’s approach—unsentimental, patient, and often confrontational—ensures the film lingers long after its final images. It is not an easy watch, nor a comfortable one, but it is a strikingly original piece of filmmaking that uses its unusual perspective to cast familiar human horrors in a stark, unsettling new light.

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