Culture
Book Review: ‘Tequila Wars,’ by Ted Genoways
TEQUILA WARS: José Cuervo and the Bloody Struggle for the Spirit of Mexico, by Ted Genoways
As far as personal branding goes, getting name-checked in multiple chart-topping singles isn’t a bad strategy. To quote just one, Shelly West’s 1983 country-radio banger: “José Cuervo, you are a friend of mine/I like to drink you with a little salt and lime.”
But there’s a complex life behind this name, so often tossed around in American overindulgence ditties, and in “Tequila Wars: José Cuervo and the Bloody Struggle for the Spirit of Mexico,” the James Beard Award-winning author Ted Genoways has dug deep to find it.
“José Cuervo is arguably the most famous name in Mexican history, but because of his own reticence and carefulness, because of the documentary absences in public and private archives, and because of his tight-lipped community and the passage of time,” writes Genoways, “many people today do not even realize he was a real person.” His densely packed biography of José Cuervo Labastida y Flores is a textured account that details Cuervo’s relationships with rival tequila producers, and his efforts to survive in a politically unstable era.
By drawing on family, newspaper, government and university archives, as well as the extant scraps of Cuervo’s professional and personal correspondence, Genoways is able to paint a nuanced portrait of an elusive figure. Memories recorded by Guadalupe Gallardo González Rubio, Cuervo’s niece, provide many of the book’s more colorful passages (including rare vignettes of happy family times) — although, as Genoways warns, her “ornate, sensitive and marvelously detailed accounts are also frustratingly short on basic facts,” like accurate dates.
“Tequila Wars” opens with a reimagining of Cuervo’s 1914 escape on horseback from his Guadalajara mansion, after getting word that Pancho Villa’s revolutionary army is on the way to arrest him for backing the wrong side in Mexico’s chaotic civil war. Following a brief stop to blow a mouthful of tequila up his exhausted steed’s nostrils (depicted here as a folk cure for equine hoof pain), Cuervo goes into hiding.
After that dramatic start, the book settles into more conventional biography mode, going back to the Cuervo family’s 1758 entry into the liquor business in the Tequila Valley, distilling the vino mezcal made from the region’s blue agave plants. Although an heir later dismissed Cuervo as “a nice man, not a great businessman,” Genoways argues that he was actually “an active and aggressive molder of his moment and milieu — as a technological innovator, a business tycoon, and perhaps, most of all, as a political power broker.”
Cuervo worked to get a railroad line to the valley to build out his distribution network. Later, he persuaded rival distillers to band together in a business alliance “structured in the style of German ‘kartells’” to control prices, production and distribution of their goods.
With trade relations between Mexico and the United States once again in the news, the book’s examination of Cuervo’s illegal trafficking over the border during America’s Prohibition years feels like the foreshadowing it is: “The old tequila smuggling routes — and the cartel model of black-market exploration — were taken over by the drug trade” after laws banning narcotics were passed in the 1930s.
Cuervo’s efforts paid off with international recognition and sales. His booming business during the World War I years raised even more scrutiny from the U.S. government, which monitored his tequila-distribution system out of fear he was running guns for America’s foes. As Genoways reports, “For the duration of the war, José Cuervo was an official enemy of the United States,” a tidbit omitted from most modern musical odes.
But it’s a concurrent war, the Mexican Revolution that took place between 1910 and 1920, that would have a bigger impact on Cuervo’s fortunes and provides much of the book’s tension. In these chapters, marauders repeatedly damage the rail lines and destroy his property; it can sometimes be difficult to keep track of who’s burning down what — although vintage photographs and several illustrations help keep track of the players in this violent drama.
Having survived the wars, Cuervo died suddenly, at the age of 51, in 1921 and was lauded with positive — if oddly vague — obituaries. Genoways offers his own epitaph: “His name is inscribed on the family tomb — under the same skull and crossbones where his father was interred — but, more importantly, his name is inscribed on millions of bottles every year, carrying his fame from his native Tequila to the rest of the world.”
If the Terry Pratchett observation that “a man’s not dead while his name is still spoken” stands, José Cuervo will live for the foreseeable future — and thanks to Ted Genoways, as more than just a brand name.
TEQUILA WARS: José Cuervo and the Bloody Struggle for the Spirit of Mexico | By Ted Genoways | W.W. Norton | 368 pp. | $31.99
Culture
I Think This Poem Is Kind of Into You
A famous poet once observed that it is difficult to get the news from poems. The weather is a different story. April showers, summer sunshine and — maybe especially — the chill of winter provide an endless supply of moods and metaphors. Poets like to practice a double meteorology, looking out at the water and up at the sky for evidence of interior conditions of feeling.
The inner and outer forecasts don’t always match up. This short poem by Louise Glück starts out cold and stays that way for most of its 11 lines.
And then it bursts into flame.
“Early December in Croton-on-Hudson” comes from Glück’s debut collection, “Firstborn,” which was published in 1968. She wrote the poems in it between the ages of 18 and 23, but they bear many of the hallmarks of her mature style, including an approach to personal matters — sex, love, illness, family life — that is at once uncompromising and elusive. She doesn’t flinch. She also doesn’t explain.
Here, for example, Glück assembles fragments of experience that imply — but also obscure — a larger narrative. It’s almost as if a short story, or even a novel, had been smashed like a glass Christmas ornament, leaving the reader to infer the sphere from the shards.
We know there was a couple with a flat tire, and that a year later at least one of them still has feelings for the other. It’s hard not to wonder if they’re still together, or where they were going with those Christmas presents.
To some extent, those questions can be addressed with the help of biographical clues. The version of “Early December in Croton-on-Hudson” that appeared in The Atlantic in 1967 was dedicated to Charles Hertz, a Columbia University graduate student who was Glück’s first husband. They divorced a few years later. Glück, who died in 2023, was never shy about putting her life into her work.
But the poem we are reading now is not just the record of a passion that has long since cooled. More than 50 years after “Firstborn,” on the occasion of receiving the Nobel Prize for literature, Glück celebrated the “intimate, seductive, often furtive or clandestine” relations between poets and their readers. Recalling her childhood discovery of William Blake and Emily Dickinson, she declared her lifelong ardor for “poems to which the listener or reader makes an essential contribution, as recipient of a confidence or an outcry, sometimes as co-conspirator.”
That’s the kind of poem she wrote.
“Confidence” can have two meanings, both of which apply to “Early December in Croton-on-Hudson.” Reading it, you are privy to a secret, something meant for your ears only. You are also in the presence of an assertive, self-possessed voice.
Where there is power, there’s also risk. To give voice to desire — to whisper or cry “I want you” — is to issue a challenge and admit vulnerability. It’s a declaration of conquest and a promise of surrender.
What happens next? That’s up to you.
Culture
Can You Identify Where the Winter Scenes in These Novels Took Place?
Cold weather can serve as a plot point or emphasize the mood of a scene, and this week’s literary geography quiz highlights the locations of recent novels that work winter conditions right into the story. Even if you aren’t familiar with the book, the questions offer an additional hint about the setting. To play, just make your selection in the multiple-choice list and the correct answer will be revealed. At the end of the quiz, you’ll find links to the books if you’d like to do further reading.
Culture
From NYT’s 10 Best Books of 2025: A.O. Scott on Kiran Desai’s New Novel
When a writer is praised for having a sense of place, it usually means one specific place — a postage stamp of familiar ground rendered in loving, knowing detail. But Kiran Desai, in her latest novel, “The Loneliness of Sonia and Sunny,” has a sense of places.
This 670-page book, about the star-crossed lovers of the title and several dozen of their friends, relatives, exes and servants (there’s a chart in the front to help you keep track), does anything but stay put. If “The Loneliness of Sonia and Sunny” were an old-fashioned steamer trunk, it would be papered with shipping labels: from Allahabad (now known as Prayagraj), Goa and Delhi; from Queens, Kansas and Vermont; from Mexico City and, perhaps most delightfully, from Venice.
There, in Marco Polo’s hometown, the titular travelers alight for two chapters, enduring one of several crises in their passionate, complicated, on-again, off-again relationship. One of Venice’s nicknames is La Serenissima — “the most serene” — but in Desai’s hands it’s the opposite: a gloriously hectic backdrop for Sonia and Sunny’s romantic confusion.
Their first impressions fill a nearly page-long paragraph. Here’s how it begins.
Sonia is a (struggling) fiction writer. Sunny is a (struggling) journalist. It’s notable that, of the two of them, it is she who is better able to perceive the immediate reality of things, while he tends to read facts through screens of theory and ideology, finding sociological meaning in everyday occurrences. He isn’t exactly wrong, and Desai is hardly oblivious to the larger narratives that shape the fates of Sunny, Sonia and their families — including the economic and political changes affecting young Indians of their generation.
But “The Loneliness of Sonia and Sunny” is about more than that. It’s a defense of the very idea of more, and thus a rebuke to the austerity that defines so much recent literary fiction. Many of Desai’s peers favor careful, restricted third-person narration, or else a measured, low-affect “I.” The bookstores are full of skinny novels about the emotional and psychological thinness of contemporary life. This book is an antidote: thick, sloppy, fleshy, all over the place.
It also takes exception to the postmodern dogma that we only know reality through representations of it, through pre-existing concepts of the kind to which intellectuals like Sunny are attached. The point of fiction is to assert that the world is true, and to remind us that it is vast, strange and astonishing.
See the full list of the 10 Best Books of 2025 here.
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