Culture
At the Olympics, a murky question for the Seine: Will it be clean enough to swim in?
Follow our Olympics coverage in the lead-up to the Paris Games.
PARIS — It’s been quite the spring in Paris, with the city set to host the Olympic Games for the first time in 100 years.
Temporary stadiums are rising at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, in the plaza next to the Orangerie (home of the Monet murals), in the gardens of Versailles. Most people though will never see what may be the most important Olympic facility, the $1.5 billion underground tunnel and water tank that is supposed to make the Seine, the river that flows through the heart of the city, suitable for the triathlon and the marathon swim races and beyond.
Yes, you read that right — swimming in the Seine. The river that makes hearts melt, the site of countless marriage proposals, where for years, couples would “lock their love” by writing their names on a padlock, attaching it to the Pont des Arts and tossing the key into the water. It is also the river that only those who crave a baptism by murk, sewage, fecal refuse and various other detritus would think of heading for a dip, which has been illegal for roughly a century.
The organizers of the Paris Games tried this out with some test events last year, including a triathlon. Kirsten Kasper, a longtime triathlete who will make her Olympic debut in Paris, was there. She remembers standing on the starting dock, “looking up at the Eiffel Tower, and just smiling.”
The “looking up” part probably had something to do with that.
Men’s triathletes dive into the Seine last summer as part of the test for the 2024 Olympics. A $1.5 billion underground system is meant to help clean the polluted waters. (Bertrand Guay / AFP via Getty Images)
As for the smile, that jibes with what Lambis Konstantinidis, the director of planning and coordination for the Paris Games, heard when he asked athletes about their time in the river.
“There was not one that did not say it was not a unique experience,” he said.
That is one way to describe it.
Whether any of the Olympians and Paralympians preparing to compete in the Seine get the chance to swim in the river remains an open question. It turns out that a $1.5 billion water tank intended to catch sewage during rainstorms that would normally flow into the river — plus years of forcing houseboats, ships and factories to stop polluting the river — can only do so much.
Officials inaugurated the Austerlitz water basin, which is located underneath the Austerlitz train station on the river’s Left Bank in the southeast quadrant of the city, in early May. It can hold 13.2 million gallons of water — enough to fill 20 Olympic-sized swimming pools.
In late May, rain fell on Paris for a week. That wreaked havoc with play at the French Open and rendered the Seine unswimmable because the rain overwhelmed the tank and tunnel system, and street runoff and fecal matter flowed into the river once more.
Officials knew this could happen. They know it might happen during the Olympic Games, though late July and early August, when the Games will take place, are generally warm and dry in the French capital. They hope weather patterns hold.
World Aquatics, the world governing body for swimming, recommends that organizers of open water events consider alternative locations to manage a drop in water quality on race day. Paris officials considered their options, but ultimately decided to hope it doesn’t rain, and that the warm sun of a typical Paris summer can kill enough of the dangerous bacteria.
There is no Plan B, other than postponing races for a few days to let the yucky water flow downstream. They say they could also turn the triathlon into a duathlon, comprised only of cycling and running, but there’s no pristine lake on the city’s outskirts on standby for the 6.2-mile swim race.
“Nothing will be done to put the athletes at risk,” Konstantinidis said.
Paris organizers are counting on a newly constructed water basin beneath the Austerlitz train station to keep the Seine clean during the Olympics and beyond. (Christine Poujoulat / AFP via Getty Images)
Whether the water will be clean enough for competition has become a quadrennial conversation for Olympic organizers who have increasingly leaned toward locating these events in scenic waters that look great on television. Racing in open water isn’t all swimming off the coast of Kona, Hawaii, at the Ironman World Championships. But the tradeoff for beautiful sights on television and competitions in the heart of the cities that host them is often water that is kind of gross.
In 2016, Rio wanted to put the swimmers off the beaches of Copacabana, which for years have been the receptacles for the city’s sewage. Five years later, Tokyo had the swimmers compete in Odaiba Marine Park in the city’s busy harbor, which also harbors plenty of the city’s sewage and runoff. Officials installed a series of screens that were supposed to catch some of the harmful bacteria from the excess flow.
Morgan Pearson, a favorite to medal in triathlon for the U.S., said the water in Tokyo was “much murkier” than what he experienced at the test event last year in Paris. He skipped a practice swim in the river because he figured getting more familiar with the current wasn’t worth the risk of possibly getting sick.
“I’ve been in cleaner water in my life,” Pearson said of the Seine, “but there wasn’t anything that stuck out.”
Indeed, bacteria rarely does.
Like all organizers of major open water competitions, the people in charge of the Paris Games will comply with the World Aquatics standards for safe swimming set by the World Health Organization for the levels of bacteria most closely associated with sewage contamination — E. coli and enterococci.
The open-water venue will certainly pop on TV, but health concerns for athletes swimming in the Seine will persist through the Olympic races. (Bertrand Guay / AFP via Getty Images)
That requires a classification of “good water quality” which, for those microbiology majors out there, means less than 500 “colony-forming units” of E. coli per 100 milliliters of water and less than 200 units of enterococci. A colony-forming unit is a collection of cells. The Seine will also have to pass an eye test for murkiness and floating debris. The tests are supposed to take place several days ahead of the competitions and at multiple locations along the course.
Taylor Spivey, another member of the American triathlon team, grew up lifeguarding on the beaches of southern California near Los Angeles. She knew from an early age that swimming after a rainstorm was a bad idea. She has not forgotten it. She swam in the Seine last year during the test event.
“No one got sick,” she said with a smile.
The prayer of all Olympic organizers is that the Games leave a legacy and change their cities. For the French, making sure the competitors in the Olympics and Paralympics are not the last ones to swim in the Seine is a major part of that.
There are canals in the city that already allow limited swimming. The city plans to open three swimming areas along the river in 2025, assuming the Austerlitz water basin can do its job and the city’s residents are ready to take this very specific leap of faith.
“Parisians are getting used to the idea” of swimming in the urban waterways Konstantinidis said, “but they will need to see it.”
GO DEEPER
How Lucas Oil Stadium turned into a swimming pool for the U.S. Olympic Trials
(Top illustration: Dan Goldfarb / The Athletic; photo: Tim Clayton / Corbis via Getty Images)
Culture
Can You Match the Places These Authors Lived With Settings in Their Books?
A strong sense of place can deeply influence a story, and in some cases, the setting can even feel like a character itself. This week’s literary geography quiz highlights places where authors were born (or lived) that later became locations in their books. To play, just make your selection in the multiple-choice list and the correct answer will be revealed. At the end of the quiz, you’ll find links to the works if you’d like to do further reading.
Culture
Book Review: ‘America, U.S.A.,’ by Eddie S. Glaude Jr.
AMERICA, U.S.A.: How Race Shadows the Nation’s Anniversaries, by Eddie S. Glaude Jr.
For those of us in the national memory-keeping business, anniversaries hold near-totemic power. Satisfyingly round units of time, ideally bearing fancy, Latin-derived names, serve as the overburdened pegs on which to hang think pieces and museum exhibits, revisionist documentaries and maudlin public ceremonies. The arbitrary nature of such occasions is precisely what gives them their charge, inviting us to set aside complacency and submit to a comprehensive check-in.
In his new book, “America, U.S.A.,” Eddie S. Glaude Jr. presents an intriguing variation on the genre, seeing the country’s 250th birthday as an anniversary of anniversaries: 50 years since the malaise-ridden, schlock-heavy Bicentennial. A century since the subdued Prohibition-era Sesquicentennial. A century and a half since telegraphed reports of George Armstrong Custer’s defeat by the Lakota and Cheyenne at Little Bighorn rudely interrupted the Gilded Age Republic’s 100th birthday party.
If an anniversary offers a snapshot of a moment, the core of Glaude’s book is an old-timey photo album, a collection of notable episodes from earlier national reckonings, long-ago glances in the mirror. An estimable scholar of Black history, politics and religion at Princeton — best known for “Begin Again,” his 2020 meditation on James Baldwin’s relevance for our times — Glaude focuses, as his subtitle puts it, on “how race shadows the nation’s anniversaries.”
Such celebrations, he contends, have never really been the moments for honest self-reflection they are often advertised to be. Instead, the nation usually shatters the mirror, refusing to accept what it prefers not to see. “American anniversaries are often moments to turn a blind eye to the evils of the past and the present,” Glaude writes, “to suppress the fact of America’s divided soul.”
It’s a clever concept, and, needless to say, perfectly timed. Last year, Glaude notes, the Trump administration executed a hostile takeover of the government’s studiously bipartisan 250th anniversary planning. It is now preparing a program that is certain to conceal more than it reveals about the country ostensibly being celebrated.
Glaude, in no mood for celebration, argues that such omissions and evasions also defined commemorations in the past. In 1875, Frederick Douglass predicted “one grand Centennial hosannah of peace and good will to all the white race of this country.” He was right: The nation reached 100 years old at a crucial moment in the post-Civil War fight over racial equality, with white Northerners ready to give up on Southern Reconstruction. The occasion would help the once-warring sections to reunite around a shared commitment to white supremacy. On May 10, 1876, at the opening of the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia, the police tried to bar Douglass from the grandstand, until a white politician vouched for him.
The 150th anniversary came soon after a resurgent Ku Klux Klan successfully pushed for a restrictive immigration law aimed at keeping America a “Nordic” nation. At the lavishly funded, lightly attended celebrations in Philadelphia, Black veterans of World War I were excluded from marching in the opening parade. A writer with The Associated Negro Press wondered “what was in the breast of those black men who fought to make America safe for Democracy and on Monday stood on the sidelines, forgotten, as the Nordic strode by in all his vain pride.”
By 1976, when the nation marked its Bicentennial, the violence of the ’60s had destroyed any semblance of consensus. Vietnam and Watergate had eroded trust in the government. The commission initially tasked with organizing the anniversary was disbanded amid reports of corruption. Corporations filled the vacuum, Glaude explains, with “star-spangled whoopee cushions; patriotic toilet seats; Liberty hamburgers; red, white and blue beer cans.” The author, around 8 years old at the time, dimly remembers donning a pair of tricolor trousers.
A half-century later, Glaude is refreshingly honest about the depths of his despair. “I do not love America, and never have, especially now,” he writes in one of the more startling opening sentences I’ve read in some time. He dismisses this year’s Semiquincentennial as reaching back “to a storybook America that requires either the banishment of Black people from view or the reduction of our role in the country’s history, so as to affirm America’s ongoing quest to be a more perfect union.”
Undoubtedly true. But Trump doesn’t own the country, at least not yet, nor the 250th anniversary of one of the most radically liberatory and confusingly contradictory events in world history — an inspiration, as Glaude shows, even to critical observers of the American experiment, like Douglass. Far from the revanchist MAGA-palooza in Washington, I suspect this summer’s unasked-for invitation to national soul-searching may surprise us yet.
Despite his despair, Glaude concludes that “the past still offers resources for us to freedom-dream.” So, too, does this book.
AMERICA, U.S.A.: How Race Shadows the Nation’s Anniversaries | By Eddie S. Glaude Jr. | Crown | 270 pp. | $31
Culture
Summer’s Best Beach Reads
Take me to visit a dysfunctional family with oceanfront real estate
by Meg Mitchell Moore
Moore is a dependable ingredient in any summer reading soufflé. Her airy novels accomplish what they came to do: entertain and transport, without the pyrotechnics of, say, books that eschew quotation marks. In “Down With the Shipmans,” three sisters, laden with baggage, converge on their late mother’s beach cottage, only to learn that their father and his much younger wife are planning to sell the place.
The stakes are high, the drama is juicy and the views are sublime. Moore even provides two beach dogs — Leo (an unruly pit bull mix) and Cinnamon (“golden retriever, red bandanna, long pink tongue”) — to keep things lively. (Comes out June 2)
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