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Papa Cristo's is closing, joining growing list of struggling longtime restaurants in L.A.

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Papa Cristo's is closing, joining growing list of struggling longtime restaurants in L.A.

A Greek institution on May 4 will serve its last flame-kissed grilled lamb, its final pillowy potatoes, its saganaki swan song. After 77 years, the family-owned restaurant Papa Cristo’s is closing, with its building listed for sale.

What began as a Greek market in 1948 expanded to a full-fledged restaurant and community staple over decades. It’s united generations of Angelenos who’ve flocked to the edge of Pico-Union for specialty goods and Greek feasts from three generations of the Chrys family. The restaurant became the unofficial heart of the Byzantine-Latino Quarter, a small historic-cultural district, along with the St. Sophia Greek Orthodox Cathedral nearby.

“It finally came to a point where we decided we’re gonna go on our terms,” said Mark Yordon, the cousin of owner Chrys Chrys, and a member of the family business for roughly 40 years. “We’re not gonna wait for a buyer to come in and say, ‘OK, I’m going to turn it into a hotel.’ ”

Yordon declined to confirm that rent increases influenced the decision to close, but Chrys told LAist that rising rent was the culprit. “The rent got too high,” he said, “and there’s nothing we can do about it. … Tenants are pawns to the landlords.”

Yordon, who works as the general manager, said the family came to the decision upon learning the building was listed for sale. The Papa Cristo’s lot, which is zoned for mixed-use or high-density residential purposes, is currently listed at $5.2 million.

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Its listing agent could not be reached for comment.

“The whole corner is for sale, and it’s never been for sale,” Yordon said. “It belonged to the same Greek family that had associations with Chrys’ dad and the current [lot] owner’s grandfather. It goes way back, to 1948.”

An L.A. institution

Sam Chrys founded what would become Papa Cristo’s as C&K Importing Co. in 1948. The market sold imported Greek foods and wine, and continues to do so today alongside broader Mediterranean and European specialty items.

In 1968, Chrys Chrys purchased the business from his father, and eventually took over an adjacent burger stand to transform it into Papa Cristo’s Taverna.

Annie Chrys, left, Chrys Chrys and Mark Yordon at Papa Cristo’s in 2016.

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(Marcus Yam / Los Angeles Times)

The generous portions and convivial setting helped solidify Papa Cristo’s as a decades-long community staple for the neighborhood and far beyond it, and in 2010 Chrys’ youngest daughter, Annie, joined the trade.

The last few years haven’t been as easy for Papa Cristo’s, which like so many local businesses saw steep revenue downturns during the pandemic. But the market allowed for some sales to continue, and the restaurant’s catering operation — which Yordon primarily oversees — helped keep the family business afloat and its staff employed.

In the years following, inflation led to slimmer profit margins. Now with tariffs on the horizon, Yordon mused, “maybe this was a good time to go.”

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Since the news broke, throngs of fans streamed into the restaurant and market. Hundreds of online comments are shouting for someone to save the business.

There could be a future where Papa Cristo’s opens in a smaller location elsewhere, though Yordon said that fate will be determined by his cousin and nieces. It’s also possible that Chrys, now 80, will take this opportunity to retire.

“He’s kind of getting to his limit,” Yordon said. “Heavy lies the head that wears the crown.”

But a public statement from Chrys on Thursday hinted that this might not be the end of Papa Cristo’s. “After 77 years on the corner of Pico and Normandie, it’s time for me to hang up my apron and for us to say goodbye (for now),” he posted to the restaurant’s Instagram page, adding, “P.S. The story of Papa Cristo’s doesn’t end here — exciting things are coming.”

More classic restaurants struggle

Some of the city’s longest-running and most cherished restaurants have announced a struggle to survive, or closed outright in the last few weeks. Chili John’s in Burbank, which opened in 1946, recently launched a fundraiser to help keep the business afloat. An owner last month said that without an increase in sales they could close in the coming months.

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The early dinner special at Du-Par's in the Original Farmers Market.

The early dinner special at Du-Par’s in the Original Farmers Market.

(Dania Maxwell / Los Angeles Times)

Recently Du-Par’s CEO said the 1938-founded diner famed for its hotcakes at a corner of the Original Farmers Market is also struggling. Frances Tario told “L.A. in a Minute” podcaster Evan Lovett that immigration crackdowns, increasing egg prices and a loss of business from the city’s January wildfires have hurt one of the city’s oldest surviving restaurants. Tario could not be reached for comment.

Last week decades-old French restaurant Le Petit Four closed its doors for good amid a string of West Hollywood shutterings. Last month, after 101 years of service, the Original Pantry closed and left Angelenos bereft.

Customers line up outside in the rain for a table at the Original Pantry Cafe in February.

Customers line up outside in the rain for a table at the Original Pantry Cafe in February.

(Nick Argro / For The Times)

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Newer restaurants are also closing at a rapid clip, with a number of notable closures in the first half of the year that included Guerilla Tacos, Cosa Buona, Sage, and Wexler’s Deli in Grand Central Market.

“It’s been a real avalanche,” said local historian and tour guide Kim Cooper. “Many, many factors are piling up on top of each other and people are making very hard decisions.”

Cooper operates walking-tour and historic-preservation-minded company Esotouric with her husband, Richard Schave. The two of them have been patrons of the restaurant for years.

Especially given the rash of closures and struggles of some of the city’s oldest restaurants, Schave and Cooper hope to see more local and state programs that aid legacy businesses and provide support before it’s too late.

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The pair suggested two potential scenarios that could save the restaurant. Maybe, they said, new state law SB 4, which is designed to help faith-based organizations build affordable housing, could help the surrounding Greek Orthodox community with deep ties to Papa Cristo’s to develop the lot.

Or, they said, history-minded restaurateurs could purchase the business from the Chrys family with the promise of ensuring its survival, as Marc Rose and Med Abrous did for Fairfax restaurant Genghis Cohen: an operation now undergoing its own land sale and relocation.

“By the time people who love these places hear that they’re in trouble, it’s often gotten too far and they’re announcing a closure,” Cooper said. “It feels like Los Angeles is disappearing. We’ve got to save it.”

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Porto's Bakery moving forward in Downtown Disney, replacing Earl of Sandwich

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Porto's Bakery moving forward in Downtown Disney, replacing Earl of Sandwich

The long-awaited Porto’s Bakery & Cafe is one step closer to serving up its pastries, cakes and famed potato balls for visitors heading to the “Happiest Place on Earth.”

Disney filed demolition permits this month for the building that previously housed La Brea Bakery in Downtown Disney just steps away from the entrance to Disney California Adventure and Disneyland. The site, which currently houses Earl of Sandwich, will be the future home of the seventh Porto’s Bakery location in Southern California.

The location gets huge foot traffic. In 2023, at least 27 million visitors streamed through the shopping district known as Downtown Disney to enter Disneyland and Disney California Adventure, according to an annual report by the consulting firm Aecom and the Themed Entertainment Assn.

Porto’s Bakery, which started in a small space in a Silver Lake strip mall in 1976 as an extension of founder Rosa Porto’s business in Cuba, has been a beloved institution in Los Angeles for decades. Lines at the bakery’s six locations frequently snake out the doors on weekends and its yellow boxes stuffed with pastries often make appearances on flights out of Los Angeles.

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Hundreds of fans swarmed Buena Park when the Cuban bakery opened its first Orange County location in 2017.

The permit filed with the Anaheim Planning and Building Department calls for tearing down the 2,610-square-foot bakery and restaurant and removing two theme park ticket booths. The utilities will be capped and the foundations removed on each site, according to city records.

It is not clear when the Porto’s Bakery location in Anaheim will open its doors. Disney officials and Porto’s representatives did not immediately return emails seeking comment.

The announcement of a spot in Downtown Disney in 2022 generated much excitement. La Brea Bakery shuttered the following year to make way for the beloved Los Angeles institution, but construction didn’t immediately start.

The delay prompted rumors that Porto’s had abandoned the plan for the site, but the bakery put people’s minds at ease last year with an announcement that it would be arriving at the outdoor shopping mall in 2025.

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Commentary: Need a balm for these troubled times? I recommend the works of P.G. Wodehouse

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Commentary: Need a balm for these troubled times? I recommend the works of P.G. Wodehouse

Seeking succor when the world seems to be closing in on you is a quintessentially human habit. Some people do it by gorging on comfort food like macaroni and cheese, others choose drink, or drugs, or gardening, or the warmth of a puppy.

I always know when I’m feeling blue, because I feel the gravitational pull of my long shelf of P.G. Wodehouse books.

If you’ve never read Wodehouse, I envy you the pleasure of discovering him for the first time. I’m well past that point; some of his stories and novels I’ve read dozens, even hundreds of times, and they can still make me convulse in laughter. More so when the outside world provides little to laugh about.

Evelyn Waugh, who admitted to learning a hell of a lot from Wodehouse, may have put it best: “Mr. Wodehouse’s idyllic world can never stale,” he wrote in a 1961 essay designed in part to defend Wodehouse over the one blot on his life story (more on that in a bit). “He will continue to release future generations from captivity that may be more irksome than our own. He has made a world for us to live in and delight in.”

And what is that world? It’s timeless, and yet dated. Orwell narrowed it down to the Edwardian era — 1901 to 1919 — long before the irruptions of two world wars and the Great Depression. Its inhabitants are those of “there will always be an England” England: stern vicars, timid curates, lords and earls, penniless titled wastrels living on allowances from their uncles, imperious aunts, upper-crust twits.

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They’re all presented on the page by an inspired farceur whose exquisitely penned prose seems effortless, but belies the painstaking craftsmanship needed to make his split-second timing come off.

Some Wodehouse lines are like time bombs, detonating with a momentary delay. My favorite comes in an exchange with the soupy Madeline Bassett in “The Code of the Woosters,” when Bertie comes up with a quote he heard from Jeeves, actually the title of a poem by Percy Bysshe Shelley, to describe his friend Gussie Fink-Nottle as “a sensitive plant.”

“Exactly,” Madeline replies. “You know your Shelley, Bertie.”

“Oh, am I?”

Where to start with Wodehouse? He used several framing devices for his novels and short stories. The golf stories are narrated by the “oldest member” of an upper-class golf club who buttonholes unwary younger members to regale them with his memories of golfers he has known.

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The peak of this series, to me, is “Farewell to Legs,” featuring a playboy who takes a house in a placid golfing community and discomposes its dour Scottish golfers with his high jinks: “Angus became aware with a sinking heart that here, as he had already begun to suspect, was a life-and-soul-of-the-party man, a perfect scream, and an absolutely priceless fellow who simply makes you die with the things he says.”

Then there are the fish stories told by Mr. Mulliner at his local pub the Angler’s Rest, involving his inexhaustible circle of relatives. To me, the glory of the Mulliner stories are a sequence of three stories — “Mulliner’s Buck-U-Uppo,” “The Bishop’s Move” and “Gala Night,” all related to his brother Wilfred’s invention of a tonic meant to “provide Indian Rajahs with a specific which would encourage their elephants to face a tiger of the jungle with a jaunty sang-froid,” and what happens when unsuspecting users swallow a tumblerful of something that should be taken by the teaspoon.

Some are set in New York and Hollywood, where Wodehouse spent some time writing lyrics for musicals with Jerome Kern and others. (His best-known song is probably “Bill,” from “Show Boat.”)

But at the summit of Wodehouse’s genius are the stories of Bertie Wooster and his “gentleman’s personal gentleman,” or valet, Jeeves. Of the short stories, all narrated by Bertie, to my mind the greatest are a trilogy beginning with “The Great Sermon Handicap,” continuing with “The Purity of the Turf,” and concluding with what may be the single funniest short story ever penned in English, “The Metropolitan Touch.”

Bertie and Jeeves, as the British essayist Alexander Cockburn once asserted, are a pairing as momentous in literary history as Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, or Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Watson. Wodehouse never exhausted the counterpoint between Bertie’s slangy gibbering and half-remembered literary allusions with Jeeves’ carefully modulated responses: “Very well, Jeeves, you agree with me that the situation is a lulu?” “Certainly a somewhat sharp crisis in your affairs would appear to have been precipitated, sir.”

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Bertie is both a classic unreliable narrator and a stock comic character given life. Having inherited a fortune from parents who are almost never mentioned, he’s rich enough for financial difficulties to never be a plot obstruction, though he’s always willing to tide over a pal brought low by “unfortunate speculations” at the racecourse. Jeeves is a deus ex machina; we learn almost nothing about him, except for imperturbability and skill at solving the crises that Bertie falls into through his pure cloth-headedness.

Bertie’s romantic relations are entirely sexless, 20th-century echoes of courtly love, though throughout the oeuvre he gets engaged to at least six women by my count. Among them towers the frighteningly domineering Honoria Glossop. (“Honoria, you see, is one of those robust, dynamic girls with the muscles of a welter-weight and a laugh like a squadron of cavalry charging over a tin bridge.”)

Jeeves extricates Bertie from every one of these entanglements, and thankfully so, because every fiancée begins their relationship with the determination to toss Jeeves out on his ear.

Wodehouse aficionados wage a never-ending debate over which Jeeves and Wooster book is his masterpiece, with “The Code of the Woosters” (1938) and “Joy in the Morning” (1946) typically trading the top two spots.

I’m partial to the former, in part because it features the only overtly political character Wodehouse ever devised. He’s Roderick Spode, a would-be British dictator plainly based on the real-life British fascist and Hitler partisan Oswald Mosley.

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Spode is the leader of a gang of fascist toughs known as the Black Shorts. “You mean ‘shorts,’ don’t you?” Bertie says when he first hears about Spode. “No,” he’s told, “by the time Spode formed his association, there were no shirts left. He and his adherents wear black shorts.” “Footer bags, you mean?” Bertie asks, a Britishism for football shorts. “How perfectly foul.”

Spode throws his weight around Brinkley Court, the country estate where the story takes place, harrying Bertie endlessly for reasons we don’t need to go into, until Jeeves provides Bertie with a magic word guaranteed to turn dictator Spode into a shrinking mouse. At the climax, Bertie presses his advantage, informing his nemesis:

“The trouble with you, Spode, is that just because you have succeeded in inducing a handful of half-wits to disfigure the London scene by going about in black shorts, you think you’re someone. You hear them shouting ‘Heil, Spode,’ and you imagine it is the Voice of the People. That is where you make your bloomer. What the Voice of the People is saying is: ‘Look at that frightful ass Spode swanking about in footer bags. Did you ever in your puff see such a perfect perisher?’”

It’s no spoiler to tell you that the magic word Jeeves provides to Bertie is “Eulalie.” As for who or what Eulalie is, and why it reduces Spode to jelly, you’ll have to read the book.

That brings us to that one blot on Wodehouse’s life. When World War II broke out, he was living peaceably in the French resort of Le Touquet. When the Nazis came through in 1940 they interned Wodehouse and transported him to Berlin, from which the Germans persuaded him to make a handful of “nonpolitical” radio broadcasts for his British compatriots.

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There was an uproar at home. Newspaper columnists condemned Wodehouse as a “Quisling,” libraries took his books off their shelves, there were condemnatory speeches in Parliament.

The truth is that the broadcasts were indeed nonpolitical; if the Germans thought they had scored a propaganda victory it was instantly evident that they were wrong, and they halted the broadcasts after only five. Wodehouse had displayed nothing worse than the stupidity of the innocent. He knew nothing of the political context, much less that his broadcasts came at a moment when the very future of Britain was in question.

But that fit precisely with Wodehouse’s literary landscape. Farce, of course, depends on its characters’ failure to recognize what is near at hand; Wodehouse in his splendid isolation in France and in a bygone fictional Eden was incapable of recognizing the crisis in Britain was so near at hand that his broadcasts would strike hard at his countrymen’s diminishing morale.

Orwell’s opinion of Wodehouse’s attackers was withering. “It was excusable to be angry at what Wodehouse did,” he wrote in 1946, “but to go on denouncing him three or four years later — and more, to let an impression remain that he acted with conscious treachery — is not excusable. Few things in this war have been more morally disgusting than the present hunt after traitors and Quislings. At best it is largely the punishment of the guilty by the guilty. … In England the fiercest tirades against Quislings are uttered by Conservatives who were practicing appeasement in 1938 and Communists who were advocating it in 1940.”

One could go on. The pleasures of Wodehouse are inexhaustible, so I’ll stop here. With some news about Trump’s tariffs threatening to disturb my peace today, and having just finished a rereading of “The Code of the Woosters,” I will share the next few hours with G. Darcy (“Stilton”) Cheesewright, Zenobia Hopwood, Edwin the Boy Scout, Boko Fittleworth and Percy, Lord Worplesdon, and their horseplay in and around Steeple Bumpleigh, Hampshire.

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Looking back on the affair and its satisfying resolution, Bertie tells Jeeves, “There’s an expression on the tip of my tongue which seems to me to sum the whole thing up. … Something about Joy doing something.”

“Joy cometh in the morning, sir?”

“That’s the baby. Not one of your things, is it?”

“No, sir.”

“Well, it’s dashed good.”

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Hundreds of Southern California Edison planners, technicians file for union election

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Hundreds of Southern California Edison planners, technicians file for union election

A group of planners, designers and field technicians at Southern California Edison on Thursday filed a petition for a union election with the National Labor Relations Board.

The move jump-starts a long-simmering unionization effort that comes amid scrutiny of the electric utility for potential mishandling of the devastating Eaton fire.

Hundreds of workers are asking to be represented by the Engineers and Scientists of California Local 20, which is part of the International Federation of Professional and Technical Engineers.

Of the more than 1,100 eligible workers of the proposed bargaining unit, a “strong majority” have signed union authorization cards, ESC Local 20 said. It declined to disclose the number of cards signed.

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Workers sent Edison management a letter Thursday morning notifying the company of their intent to unionize. Workers said they began organizing more than five years ago, but the effort was derailed when the COVID-19 pandemic hit.

“This has actually been years in the making. I’m excited we are one step closer to forming a union,” said Aaron Pearson, a planner who has worked at Edison for more than 20 years. “We just want a real voice at work. We feel a union would give us the power to protect what’s working, fix what’s not working and keep communities safe.”

Brian Leventhal, a Edison spokesperson, said the company knows that its “ability to deliver clean, safe and reliable power depends on providing a rewarding and respectful work environment and competitive compensation and benefits to all [its] employees.”

“We respect the right of our employees to vote in an election and decide for themselves whether to join a union,” Leventhal said. “We are encouraging all our employees to take the time to become educated and to vote on what they believe is in their own self-interest.”

A separate union, the International Brotherhood of Electrical Workers Local 47, already represents construction linemen who install and maintain the overhead distribution and transmission lines.

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John Mader, president of ESC Local 20, urged the company to take a neutral approach to the union so that workers could eventually vote in an election “without interference or intimidation.”

“These workers provide an indispensable service to the people of California, and their right to come together collectively to improve their working conditions must be respected and protected,” Mader said in a statement.

While the cause of the Eaton fire — which killed 18 people and destroyed more than 9,000 structures in Altadena — remains under investigation, residents have filed several lawsuits blaming Edison for sparking the conflagration.

Edison International Chief Executive Pedro Pizarro said this month that the possibility an idle, unconnected Edison transmission line reenergized is “a leading hypothesis” for what sparked the fire.

The company announced recently that more than 150 miles of electrical lines damaged by the Palisades and Eaton fires will be replaced with underground lines in a years-long project.

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Workers said that they were not authorized to speak about the company’s handling of the fire and that their motivation to join the union had not been influenced by the disaster and resulting scrutiny.

“Our job is to make sure we have a safe and reliable system. We are just excited to have a voice at the table in how we go forward,” said David Morasse, a planner at Edison for about 25 years.

Once an election is held and if a majority of the bargaining unit votes in favor, the group of workers will officially join ESC Local 20 and begin negotiating their first contract with Edison.

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