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How 3 Hawaiian teen princes brought surfing to the mainland

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How 3 Hawaiian teen princes brought surfing to the mainland

In 1885, royal Hawaiian siblings David Kawānanakoa, Jonah Kūhiō Kalanianaʻole and Edward Keliʻiahonui introduced surfing — then called “surfboard swimming” — to mainland U.S. when they took to the waves in Santa Cruz, Calif.

Santa Cruz Museum of Art & History


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Santa Cruz Museum of Art & History

The mouth of the San Lorenzo river in Santa Cruz, Calif., isn’t a great place to surf. Rocks, pollution and swift currents make it precarious almost year-round. But before the construction of a harbor in the mid-1960s altered the surroundings, the spot was a surfer’s paradise, with easy, consistent swells. “They looked very much like the breakers in Honolulu,” said cultural historian and longtime surfer Geoffrey Dunn.

Dunn said this reminder of home is what inspired three teenage members of the Hawaiian royal family, in 1885, to unleash a sport then known as “surfboard swimming” on an unsuspecting American public. “It was a royal sport,” Dunn said. “They were part of that tradition in Honolulu.”

A popular sport with little-known roots

Surfing has grown in popularity in this country in recent years. The Sports & Fitness Industry Association’s (SFIA) 2025 surfing report shows an 8% average annual growth from 2019 to 2024. “Participation in the sport continues to climb, fueled by youthful energy, broader diversity and a growing appetite for outdoor, wellness-driven lifestyles,” said an online statement from the Surf Industry Members Association, quoting the SFIA’s research.

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But few Americans know how the sport first came to these shores 140 years ago. A new exhibition at the Santa Cruz Museum of Art and History aims to change that. “ I think it’s important for us to recognize that the seed of surfing in the Americas was the result of these Hawaiians who brought it here,” Dunn said.

A view of the Santa Cruz shoreline c.1900.

A view of the Santa Cruz shoreline c. 1900.

Aydelotte/The Geoffrey Dunn Collection


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Aydelotte/The Geoffrey Dunn Collection

Dunn said Hawaii’s royal family sent siblings David Kawānanakoa, Jonah Kūhiō Kalanianaʻole and Edward Keliʻiahonui to study abroad at St. Matthew’s Military School, an elite school in San Mateo County, not far from Santa Cruz, with the aim of preparing them to be worldly and well-informed modern rulers. “As part of the globalization of trade in the 19th century, people came from all over the world to Hawaii,” Dunn said.

From Hawaiian to Californian wood

The brothers had grown up riding the waves atop giant surfboards made out of native Hawaiian woods such as ulu and koa. In California, they fashioned them out of the local redwood. Dunn pointed out gleaming replicas of these artifacts, on display in the exhibition, alongside surfboards illustrating the evolution of the spot throughout history. (The reproductions are based on originals from the estate of one of the princes, which are now housed at the Bishop Museum on Oahu.)

Cultural historian and surfer Geoffrey Dunn poses in front of modern reproductions of the redwood boards the Hawaiian princes built and used during the stay in Santa Cruz, Calif.

Cultural historian and surfer Geoffrey Dunn poses at the Santa Cruz Museum of Art & History in front of modern reproductions of the redwood boards the Hawaiian princes built and used during the stay in the 1880s.

Jim Ratcliffe

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“ They probably weigh eight times more than current surfboards at least,” Dunn said, adding the princes’ boards were twice as long and didn’t have fins to help with stabilization. “So much tougher to surf. But of course, that’s what they had been using in Hawaii.”

A big splash

In California, the royal brothers made a big splash. An article from the July 20, 1885 edition of a local newspaper, the Santa Cruz Surf, told all about it. “The young Hawaiian princes were in the water, enjoying it hugely and giving interesting exhibitions of surfboard swimming as practiced in their native islands,” the article said.

These aquatic feats left a lasting impression on the citizens of Santa Cruz following the princes’ departure, which likely happened in 1887, according to the Santa Cruz Museum of Art and History. Eleven years after they first demonstrated their art, the Santa Cruz Surf noted how it had been picked up by locals. “The boys who go swimming in the surf at Seabright Beach use surfboards to ride the breakers, like the Hawaiians,” a July 23, 1896 notice in the publication stated. (Seabright Beach is a popular beach in Santa Cruz.)

Hawaiian response

The princes’ acts of “surf diplomacy” also resonated with Hawaiians.

“The story about the three princes is a famous story in our culture,” said Brian Keaulana. Keaulana comes from a line of legendary Hawaiian surfers, and is also a producer on Chief of War, the Apple TV+ new drama series about the battle to unite the Hawaiian islands in the 18th century. (The series, which stars Jason Momoa, includes royal Hawaiian characters, but it doesn’t include surfing — though one episode features an epic underwater “shark surfing” scene.)

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The Princes of Surf exhibition includes surfboards from more modern times — the heirs of the boards created by the Hawaiian princes.

The Princes of Surf exhibition includes surfboards from more modern times — the heirs of the boards created by the Hawaiian princes.

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Jim Ratcliffe

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Keaulana said it wasn’t until the early 20th century the sport truly caught on in the U.S. and beyond, popularized in large part by the Hawaiian swimming champ and surfer Duke Kahanamoku. “Duke spread surfing around the world,” Keaulana said.

He added the Hawaiian princes’ visit to California in the 1880s was an important precursor — one that not only benefitted people on the U.S. mainland, but Hawaiians, too.

“They came back with redwood boards,” Keaulana said, adding that the new technology eventually caught on in Hawaii when redwood became the dominant surfboard material on the islands in the first half of the 20th century. Keaulana added: “ It’s funny how those things get passed on.”

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‘Everything I knew burned down around me’: A journalist looks back on LA’s fires

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‘Everything I knew burned down around me’: A journalist looks back on LA’s fires

A firefighter works as homes burn during the Eaton fire in the Altadena area of Los Angeles County, Calif., on Jan. 7, 2025.

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Josh Edelson/AFP via Getty Images

On New Year’s Eve 2024, journalist Jacob Soboroff was sitting around a campfire with a friend when he made an offhand comment that would come back to haunt him: The last thing he wanted to do in the new year, Soboroff said, was cover a story that would require donning a fire-safe yellow suit.

Just one week later, Soboroff was dressed in the yellow suit, reporting live from a street corner in Los Angeles as fire tore through the Pacific Palisades, the community where he was raised.

“This was a place that I could navigate with my eyes closed,” Soboroff says of the neighborhood. “Every hallmark of my childhood I was watching carbonize in front of me. … There were firefighters there and first responders and other journalists there, but it was an extremely lonely, isolating experience to be standing there as everything I knew burned down around me in real time.”

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In his new book, Firestorm: The Great Los Angeles Fires and America’s New Age of Disaster, Soboroff offers a minute-by-minute account of the catastrophe, told through the voices of firefighters, evacuees, scientists and political leaders. He says covering the wildfires was the most important assignment he’s ever undertaken.

“The experience of doing this is something that I don’t wish on anybody, but in a way I wish everybody could experience,” he says. “It’s given me insane reverence for our colleagues in the local news community here, who, I think, definitionally were exercising a public service in the street-level journalism that they were doing and are still doing. … It was actually beautiful to watch because they are as much a first responder on a frontline as anybody else.”

Interview highlights

Firestorm, by Ben Soboroff

On the experience of reporting from the fires

You’re choking with the smoke. And I almost feel guilty describing it from my vantage point because the firefighters would say things to me like: “My eyeballs were burning. We were laying flat on our stomach in the middle of the concrete street because it was so hot, it was the only way that we could open the hoses full bore and try to save anything that we could.” …

I could feel the heat on the back of my neck as we stood in front of these houses that I remember as the houses that cars and people would line up in front of for the annual Fourth of July parade or the road race that we would run through town. Trees were on fire behind us — we were at risk of structures falling at any given minute. It was pretty surreal because this is a place I had spent so much time as a child and going back to as an adult. … I had no choice but to just open my mouth and say what I saw to the millions of people that were watching us around the country.

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On undocumented immigrants being central to rebuilding the city

These types of massive both humanitarian and natural disasters give us X-ray vision for a time into sort of the fissures that are underneath the surface in our society. And Los Angeles, in addition to being one of the most unequal cities between the rich and the poor, has more undocumented people than virtually any other city in the United States of America. Governor Newsom knew that with the policies of the incoming administration, some of the very people that would be responsible for the cleanup and the rebuilding of Los Angeles may end up in the crosshairs of national immigration policy. And I think that that was an understatement. …

Pablo Alvarado in the National Day Laborer Organizing Network said to me that often the first people into a disaster — the second responders after the first — are the day laborers. They went to Florida after Hurricane Andrew, to New Orleans after Katrina, and they’d be ready to go in Los Angeles. And I went out and I cleaned up Altadena and Pasadena with some of them in real time.

And only months later did this wide-scale immigration enforcement campaign begin … on the streets of LA as sort of the Petri dish, the guinea pig for expanding this across the country. And it’s not an exaggeration to say that the parking lots of Home Depots, where workers [were] looking to get involved in the rebuilding of Los Angeles, has been ground zero for that enforcement campaign.

On efforts to rebuild

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The pace is slow and it’s sort of a hopscotch of development. And I think for people who do come back, for people who can afford to come back, it’s going to be a long road ahead. You’re going to have half the houses on your street under construction for years to come. And for people that do inhabit those homes, it’s going to an isolating experience. But there’s an effort underway to rebuild. …

There’s also a lot of for-sale signs. And that’s the sad reality of this, is that there are people who, whether it’s that they can’t afford to come back … or that they just can’t stomach it, I think, sadly, a lot people are not going to be returning to their homes.

On what the Palisades and Altadena look like today

They both look like very big construction sites in a way. There are still some facades, some ruins of the more historic buildings in the Palisades. … But mostly it’s just empty lots. And in Altadena, the same thing. If you drive by the hardware store, the outside is still there. But it’s a patchwork of empty lots. Homes now under construction. And lots and lots of workers. … There are still a handful of people who are living in both the Palisades and in Altadena, but for the most part, these are communities where you’ve got workers going in during the day and coming out at night. …

We have designed this community to be one that’s in the crosshairs of a fire just like the one we experienced and that we will certainly, certainly experience again, because nobody’s packing it up and leaving Los Angeles. People may not return to their communities after they’ve lost their homes, but the ship has sailed on living in the wildland urban interface in the second largest city in the country.

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On seeing this story, personally, as his “most important assignment”

Jacob Soboroff is a correspondent for MS NOW, formerly MSNBC.

Jacob Soboroff is a correspondent for MS NOW, formerly MSNBC.

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Jason Frank Rothenberg/HarperCollins

I don’t think I realized at the time how badly I needed the connections that I made in the wake of the fire, both with the people who have lost homes and the firefighters, first responders who were out there, but also honestly with my own family, my immediate family, my wife and my kids, my mom and my dad and my siblings and myself. I think that this was a really hard year in LA, and I think in the wake of the fire, I was experiencing some level of despair as well. Then the ICE raids happened here and sort of turned our city upside down. And this book for me was just this amazing cathartic blessing of an opportunity to find community with people I don’t think I ever would have otherwise spent time with, and to reconnect with people who I hadn’t seen or heard from in forever.

Anna Bauman and Nico Wisler produced and edited this interview for broadcast. Bridget Bentz, Molly Seavy-Nesper and Beth Novey adapted it for the web.

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The Best of BoF 2025: A Tough Year for Luxury

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The Best of BoF 2025: A Tough Year for Luxury
High-end brands struggled to shake the gloom, with no sign of a rebound in view. Yet bright patches have emerged, with fresh energy from creative revamps, investor confidence in Kering’s new CEO and outperformance of labels like Hermes, Brunello Cucinelli and Prada.
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Feeling cooped up? Get out of town with this delightful literary road trip

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Feeling cooped up? Get out of town with this delightful literary road trip

Tom Layward, the narrator and main character of Ben Markovits’ new novel, The Rest of Our Lives, introduces himself in a curious way: On the very first page of the book, he talks, matter-of-factly, about the affair his wife, Amy, had 12 years ago, when their two kids were young.

Amy, who’s Jewish, got involved at a local synagogue in Westchester; Tom, who was raised Catholic and is clearly not a joiner, remained on the sidelines. At the synagogue, Amy met Zach Zirsky, who Tom describes as “the kind of guy who danced with all the old ladies and little pigtailed girls at a bar mitzvah, so he could also put his arm around the pretty mothers and nobody would complain.”

After the affair came out, Tom and Amy decided to stay together for the kids: a boy named Michael and his younger sister, Miriam. But, Tom tells us “I also made a deal with myself. When Miriam goes to college you can leave, too.” The deal, Tom says, “helped me get through the first few months … [when] we had to pretend that everything was fine.”

Twelve years have since passed and the marriage has settled back into a state of OK-ness. Miriam, now 18, is starting college in Pittsburgh and because Amy is having a tough time with Miriam’s departure, Tom alone drives her to campus.

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And, once Tom drops Miriam off, he just keeps driving, westward; without explanation to us or to himself; as though he’s a passenger in a driverless car that has decided to carry him across “the mighty Allegheny” and keep on going.

The three-page scene where Tom passively melds into the trans-continental traffic flow constitutes a master class on how to write about a character who is opaque to himself. “[Y]ou don’t feel anything about anything,” Amy says early on to Tom — an accusation that’s pretty much echoed by Tom’s old college girlfriend, Jill, whom he spontaneously drops in on at her home in Las Vegas, after being out of touch for roughly 30 years.

But, if Tom is distanced from his own feelings (and vague about the “issue” he had “with a couple of students” that forced him to take a leave from teaching in law school), he’s a sharp diagnostician of other people’s behavior. What fuels this road trip is Tom’s voice — by turns, wry, mournful and, oh-so-casually, astute.

There’s a strain of Richard Ford and John Updike in Tom’s tone, which I mean as a high compliment. Take, for instance, how Tom chats to us readers about a married couple who are old friends of his and Amy’s:

[Chrissie] was maybe one of those women who derives secret energy from the troubles of her friends. Her husband, Dick, was a perfectly good guy, about six-two, fat and healthy. He worked for an online tech platform. I really don’t know what he did.

So might most of us be summed up for posterity.

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As Tom racks up miles, taking detours to visit other folks out of his past, like his semi-estranged brother, his meandering road trip accrues in suspense. There’s something else he’s subconsciously speeding away from here besides his marriage. Tom tells us at the outset that he’s suffering from symptoms his doctors ascribe to long COVID: dizziness and morning face swelling so severe that daughter Miriam jokingly calls him “Puff Daddy.” Shortly after he reaches the Pacific, Tom also lands in the hospital. “Getting out of the hospital,” Tom dryly comments, “is like escaping a casino, they don’t make it easy for you.”

The canon of road trip stories in American literature is vast, even more so if you count other modes of transportation besides cars — like, say, rafts. But, the most memorable road trips, like The Rest of Our Lives, notice the easy-to-miss signposts — marking life forks in the road and looming mortality — that make the journey itself everything.

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