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What’s With All the Dancing at the Fashion Show?

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What’s With All the Dancing at the Fashion Show?

The models were dancing. Again.

Here, during the first full weekend of the men’s fall shows, a noticeable number of fashion houses had decided that merely showing off their new clothes wasn’t enough. No, no, the audience should be given a performance right out of Alvin Ailey. Runway shows are out. Free Jazz dance recitals are in.

At Brioni on Saturday, the designer Norbert Stumpfl paused a walk-through of his collection of one-percenter signifiers (croc-skin coats, vicuña jackets, cashmere sweaters looped devil-may-care style over jackets) to allow me to take in the gyrational stylings of a dancer. For a few minutes, a man wiggled and pliéd across a red carpet. He swished his coat about like a matador with a cape, as if to say: “Look ma! No lining!”

Hours later, at a presentation at Corneliani, more dancers skittered along a rotating platform, doing some pseudo-break dancing in marbled gray sweaters and slate suits. They paused between slides to hug it out.

“I think male dancers are very emotional,” said Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte, the label’s style director.

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Beyond providing some Instagrammable drama, the performance, which was choreographed by Kate Coyne, the artistic director of the Central School of Ballet in London, expressed that the label’s pressed trousers and flat suits weren’t as restrictive as they seemed.

“All the fabrics are very rigorous,” Mr. Guadioso Tramonte said, “but we wanted to show that they’re quite fluid also.”

The fledgling label Mordecai didn’t need a dance routine to demonstrate that its clothes were fluid — that was pretty evident from the slouchy way its Abominable Snowman parkas and slack, striped trousers hung on the models at its presentation on Saturday afternoon. Still, Ludovico Bruno, the label’s founder and designer, had the static models come to life, bending and stomping like monks listening to Kraftwerk.

“It’s not a dancing class, it’s more like a wave,” Mr. Bruno said.

Movement has long been a part of fashion presentations. In the 1990s, models would sashay down the catwalk, surviving with verve. (Watch “Unzipped,” the mighty fashion documentary about Isaac Mizrahi, for some footage of that.) To this day, brands like Issey Miyake employ dance troops to jitter down the runway, highlighting the pliability of their clothes.

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That dancing has become such a common motif in Milan speaks to the nature of the brands that operate here. Many are traditionalists whose collections barely budge from season to season. To unkind eyes, dance routines distract the audience from this fact. A kinder take, of course, would be that the routines show the elegance and grace of the clothes.

There is also, of course, the social media of it all: Every performance I witnessed this weekend was captured by the iPhone-holding throngs in the audience. I could watch them all later on Instagram. How’s that for savvy free marketing?

Labels like Mordecai represent the other, though comparatively tiny, faction in Milan: younger companies that are, perhaps, not yet confident enough for the runway but not resigned to the static “oh, whatever” feel of a showroom, which, to the uninitiated, looks like a well-stocked retail store.

They should take that leap to the runway, instead of half-measuring with some choreography. Their audiences at fashion week, after all, are better suited to judge a topcoat than a two-step.

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All about character: Jane Austen fans on their favorites

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All about character: Jane Austen fans on their favorites

Jane Austen ready to party for her 250th birthday at the Jane Austen Society of North America’s Annual General Meeting in Baltimore.

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In her six completed novels, Jane Austen excelled at love stories: Elinor and Edward, Lizzie and Darcy, Fanny and Edmund, Emma and Knightley, Anne and Wentworth, heck even Catherine and Tilney. As her fans celebrate the 250th anniversary of her birth, they’d like you to know it’s a mistake to simply dismiss her work as light, frothy romances. It’s full of intricate plots, class satire and biting wit, along with all the timeless drama of human foibles, frailties and resolve.

Tessa Harrings (left) learns English country dance at the Jane Austen Society of North America's 2025 Annual General Meeting

Tessa Harings (left) learns English country dance at the Jane Austen Society of North America’s 2025 Annual General Meeting

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“The basic reason why Austen is still popular today is because all of her characters are people we know in the world,” says Tessa Harings. She’s a high school teacher from Phoenix and one of the more than 900 attendees at the Jane Austen Society of North America’s Annual General Meeting, held in Baltimore this year. “We all know of someone who’s shy and aloof and needs to be brought into the crowd. We all know someone who’s quite witty, naturally. We all know someone who is a bit silly and always looking for attention.”

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Colin Firth, properly memed from the 1995 BBC miniseries. His Darcy is a big favorite with the JASNA crowd.
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Shy and aloof? That could be Darcy. Naturally witty? Lizzie Bennet. Silly and looking for attention? Take your pick: baby sister Lydia or maybe the haughty Caroline Bingley or the unctuous Mr. Collins, all creations from what might be Austen’s most popular novel, Pride and Prejudice.

Her characters have permeated modern pop culture, even among people who’ve never opened her books. Harings says that’s one reason her students want to read these Regency-era novels. They want to understand the jokes in all those short videos and memes, like Mr. Collins making awkward dinner conversation.

He wants a wife, he compliments the potatoes. In Mr. Collin’s head, it makes sense.
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Her students enjoy the tension between Darcy and Lizzie: he’s very rich, so besotted by her against his will that he can hardly dance, glower and talk at the same time. Lizzie initially cannot stand him and refuses his first proposal, as shown in this soggy scene from the 2005 movie adaptation.

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Harings says Lizzie is her favorite Austen character. “She has such sharp, sarcastic wit and she’s so self-confident, despite the fact that she’s constantly being put down by the people around her for her supposedly lower position in life as the slightly less pretty of the mother’s two oldest daughters.”

Dannielle Perry (right) and her assistant Mia Berg of Timely Tresses in their Regency-era togs.

Milliner Dannielle Perry (right) and her assistant Mia Berg of Timely Tresses in their Regency-era togs.

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“When I was a teenager, I loved Lizzie and I wanted to be Lizzie,” says milliner Dannielle Perry of Oxford, N.C. She’s read and reread all of Jane Austen’s books and she loves how they change for her as she’s gotten older. She’s now more sympathetic toward Mrs. Bennet, Lizzie’s mom: a woman desperate to get her five daughters married, least they be penniless since they can’t inherit their father’s estate. “I feel sorry for her in a way I never did before,” Perry says. “She is sort of silly, but she’s lived with a man for 20 years who largely dismisses her and thinks she’s frivolous.”

Doctoral student Katie Yu, of Dallas, has this analysis of Mrs. Bennett and her husband, who seems mentally checked-out at best: “He’s not a great father. He’s always putting his wife down in front of his daughters, he’s putting his daughters down in front of his daughters.” Yu says Mr. Bennet married Mrs. Bennet because she was pretty, treats her as an inferior, and often ignores her. This is why Mrs. Bennet goes on about her nerves and “has the vapors” whenever she’s stressed: she’s trying to get his attention.

“But,” says Tessa Harings, “she still has a level of street smarts that she has to get her daughters married. And yes, she’s sincerely concerned about their future … she actually, of the two of them, is the more concerned and involved parent.”

Tom Tumbusch explains 19th century dance moves to JASNA members.

Tom Tumbusch explains 19th century dance moves to JASNA members.

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Dance instructor Tom Tumbusch, of Cincinnati, says men can learn a lot from Austen. “Modern men struggle to find good role models,” he says. “Reading Austen’s works can help them see the places where men can go wrong.” Mr. Bennet, for example. Or the libertine George Wickham who lies and runs off with the flighty Bennet sister, Lydia. Or maybe Willoughby from Sense and Sensibility, who leads Marianne Dashwood on, ghosts her and is later revealed to have abandoned an unmarried woman who gave birth to his child.

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Oh, Marianne, he’s so not worth it!

On the other hand, Tumbusch says Jane Austen’s heroes can show men “how to be masculine in a constructive way,” like owning mistakes, taking responsibility and treating women with respect. It’s not just Darcy, who works behind the scenes getting Wickham to marry Lydia, it’s also Captain Wentworth from Persuasion. Tombusch says Wentworth does what men of his station should: he uses his own resources to help someone less fortunate, the poor, partially disabled widow Mrs. Smith. And in Sense and Sensibility, there’s the steadfast Col. Brandon. Hoping to make Willoughby’s rejection of Marianne less devastating to her, he exposes the libertine’s behavior. He rides hours to retrieve her mother when Marianne is near death. He patiently, oh-so-patiently, waits for her young, broken heart to mend.

All this while wearing a flannel waistcoat because he’s on the “wrong side of five and thirty” and needs to keep those ancient bones warm.

Before he rocked worlds as Snape, Alan Rickman made the earth move for viewers of the 1995 movie adaptation of Sense and Sensibility.
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JASNA president Mary Mintz, of McLean, Va., says though Jane Austen is largely known for her marriage plots, it’s really the human need for connection that grounds her stories. “She writes about the relationships between parents and children, between siblings or among siblings, she writes about relationships with friends. And she is really insightful. When you combine that with her knowledge of human psychology, it’s a great formula for success.”

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Mintz is fascinated by Emma’s pivotal character, Miss Bates. She’s a spinster and member of the gentry class who lives with her elderly mother on an extremely limited income. She’s also a nervous chatterbox, “someone who can’t stop talking,” says Mintz. “I’ve known a lot of Misses Bates in my lifetime… people who seem insecure and feel as though they have to fill up silence, but are really good-hearted people.”

When Emma is rude to Miss Bates, she’s firmly chastised by her neighbor, Mr. Knightley. It becomes a turn-around moment in the story. Humbled, Emma apologizes. She also sees how she’s been wrong to meddle in the love life of Harriet Smith, a pretty teenager whose parents are unknown.

Mintz says there’s an interesting link between Bates and Harriet, if you put two and two together.

“In Jane Austen’s actual life, mothers and daughters often share the same name,” she explains. That pattern can be seen in many of her novels. “We don’t know who Harriet Smith’s natural mother is, but at one point Miss Bates is referred to as ‘Hetty,’ which could be a diminutive for ‘Harriet.’ “

That’s the first clue. The second clue occurs during that scene where Knightley sets Emma right. He says of Miss Bates, “she has sunk from the comforts she was born to.” He then draws a contrast between the spinster’s current station and her former one: “You, whom she had known from an infant, whom she had seen grow up from a period when her notice was an honour…”

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Emma’s father is quite wealthy, so why would Miss Bates’ notice have once been so esteemed? Mary Mintz asks, “Is because she had a child out of wedlock?”

And could that child be… Harriet Smith?

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The mind: it boggles! A Jane Austen Easter egg! It’s just one example of how multi-dimensional her novels are and why so many people will continue loving, analyzing and discussing her work well into the next 250 years.

Jacob Fenston and Danny Hensel edited and produced this report.

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Rob Reiner and Wife Michele Had Throats Slit By Family Member

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Rob Reiner and Wife Michele Had Throats Slit By Family Member

Rob Reiner And Wife Michele
Throats Slit By Family Member

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Sunday Puzzle: Major U.S. cities

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Sunday Puzzle: Major U.S. cities

Sunday Puzzle

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On-air challenge

I’m going to read you some sentences. Each sentence conceals the name of a major U.S. city in consecutive letters. As a hint, the answer’s state also appears in the sentence. Every answer has at least six letters. (Ex. The Kentucky bodybuilders will be flexing tonight. –> LEXINGTON)

1. Space enthusiasts in Oregon support landing on Mars.

2. Contact your insurance branch or agent in Alaska.

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3. The Ohio company has a sale from today to next Sunday.

4. The Colorado trial ended in a sudden verdict.

5. Fans voted the Virginia tennis matches a peak experience.

6. I bought a shamrock for decorating my house in Illinois.

7. All the Connecticut things they knew have now changed.

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8. Can you help a software developer in Texas?

Last week’s challenge

Last week’s challenge came from Mike Reiss, who’s a showrunner, writer, and producer for “The Simpsons.” Think of a famous living singer. The last two letters of his first name and the first two letters of his last name spell a bird. Change the first letter of the singer’s first name. Then the first three letters of that first name and the last five letters of his last name together spell another bird. What singer is this?

Challenge answer

Placido Domingo

Winner

Brock Hammill of Corvallis, Montana.

This week’s challenge

This week’s challenge comes from Robert Flood, of Allen, Texas. Name a famous female singer of the past (five letters in the first name, seven letters in the last name). Remove the last letter of her first name and you can rearrange all the remaining letters to name the capital of a country (six letters) and a food product that its nation is famous for (five letters).

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If you know the answer to the challenge, submit it below by Thursday, December 18 at 3 p.m. ET. Listeners whose answers are selected win a chance to play the on-air puzzle.

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