Washington

Island Hopping In The San Juans Off The Washington Coast

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This beautiful archiepelago northwest of Seattle is a wildly popular destination, especially during the summer months. Here are a few tips and tricks for getting the most out of a visit to this very special destination.

Getting there

One of the many reasons these islands are beloved is that they’re not exactly easy to navigate. Well, unless you’re behind the wheel of your own boat. Most visitors arrive via the Washington State Ferries and seasoned islanders know it’s essential to book a reservation for sailings out of Anacortes. Even then, be prepared for ferries to run late this time of year. There’s an app for monitoring in real time, but in a classic Catch 22, you’ve still got to be in line if you’ve got a reservation, so…

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Kenmore Air flies 10-passenger floatplanes from Seattle to Friday Harbor in just under an hour and there’s a new water taxi charter offered out of Bellingham.

While my husband and I are volunteering as camp hosts for a couple of months at Spencer Spit State Park on Lopez Island, we’ve been able to enjoy some inter-island hopping by walking our bikes onto the ferry and riding around the cycle-friendly islands. (If you’re looking to rent, I suggest visiting Village Cycles on Lopez and snagging an Aventon e-bike.)

There are a couple of huge advantages to traveling on two wheels, but top of the list is that you don’t have to join the line of cars waiting to board. Plus, burning those calories pedaling means you can eat more. Here are a few laid-back spots where you should definitely dine while visiting.

Arrive early for lunch at Downriggers in Friday Harbor and you might be fortunate enough to snag a table on the sun-drenched deck. The casual menu includes a long list of sandwiches and salads, along with fresh-catch fish and chips. If you’re a Reuben fan, the house-smoked salmon version is a real treat.

Speaking of sandwiches, the locals go for the pre-made selection filling the deli case at the Orcas Village Store at the ferry landing, so get there early for best selection.

At the historic Roche Harbor Resort, the Madrona Bar & Grill has a lively vibe on the deck, weather permitting. I’m a fan of the kitchen’s blackened rockfish tacos.

If you want to DIY a picnic on Lopez, pick up a loaf of the excellent Water Tank Bakery bread at Blossom Grocery — the roasted onion is my current obsession — and some goat cheese from Sunnyfield Farms before heading out to Spencer Spit or out to drink in the amazing view at Shark’s Reef.

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MORE FROM FORBESMeet The Most Outgoing Chef In The Pacific Northwest

Book a table for Sunday brunch at Setsunai Noodle Bar, where chef Josh Ratza makes exquisite ramen and soba noodles from scratch using organic flour from Fairhaven Mill. His hot take on the weekend meal that straddles breakfast and lunch includes savory sourdough pancakes drizzled in the aptly named yum yum sauce and rolled egg omlets. Start the feast with a shareable order of the panko-crusted potato croquettes known as korokke. BTW, Ratza is on deck for an Outstanding in the Field dinner on June 24.

Of course, there are many more delicious options. Check out this dining guide from the San Juan Island Visitors Bureau.

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