Connect with us

San Francisco, CA

The Gelato Is Spinning Thick This Summer in San Francisco

Published

on

The Gelato Is Spinning Thick This Summer in San Francisco


Perhaps it’s all the Mediterranean dining around town but the last few summers have been filled with tinned fish and Aperol spritzes. So, naturally, San Franciscans are primed for dessert — do you want to get gelato? There are several fresh options for gelato around town right now, with a few new shops, windows, and even jaunty custom carts rolling in from Italy.

But what exactly is the difference between ice cream and gelato? A quick refresher: Technically, ice cream has more fat and more air, explains Roy Shvartzapel of From Roy. Ice cream is often made with cream and eggs, and it spins fast to incorporate air; Shvartzapel estimates ice cream at more than 50 percent overrun or added air, while his gelato maxes out at 20 to 25 percent. Gelato relies more on milk, so it’s lighter in fat — between 4 and 9 percent, many sources agree — and it spins slowly so it’s dense in texture and feels more intense in flavor. Pick up a pint at the market and it’s definitely more solid. Take a spoonful and, “You get all of the flavor on your tongue,” says Jennifer Felton, pastry chef at Cotogna. “You’re not working through the air. You don’t have a lot of fat. That flavor melts on your tongue immediately.”

No offense to anyone who loves soft serve, but it’s a treat to see talented pastry chefs crafting gelato programs from scratch, many inspired by their travels and memories of Milan, Bologna, and Sicily. So grab a mini spoon and let’s dig into it — the gelato is thick this summer in San Francisco.

Advertisement

Che Fico Mercato

Advertisement

Advertisement

Che Fico Mercato in Menlo Park threw open a Gelateria window at the beginning of the summer, which has already been a hit with the warm weather on the Peninsula. They’re also rolling out a new custom cart, so the gelato can hit the road and roam around the Bay Area, likely starting with a few farmers markets. It’s a super cute TeknéItalia model that just arrived from Italy, featuring snappy red paint with a pattern of purple figs and a scalloped awning. “The more people enjoying gelato, the better,” says co-owner Matt Brewer. “And what better way to bring gelato to the people?” They tapped a star pastry chef to develop their recipes — Shvartzapel, of panettone fame, has been consulting on the menu.

Shvartzapel says it was refreshing to take a break from crafting one of the most notoriously difficult breads in the world, and instead develop a few fresh gelato recipes for summer. He’s spent the most time in and around Milan, visiting his panettone mentor nearby in Brescia. “I definitely have gelato once a day when I’m there,” Shvartzapel says. He considers himself kind of a classicist when it comes to intense flavors. The team imports pistachio, hazelnut, and almonds from Italy, and folds in the same local and seasonal produce on display in the market. Shvartzapel still dreams about Silicilan pistachio gelato, which they’re now pairing with tart cherries. The cookies and cream flavor folds hazelnut brutti ma buoni cookies into a hazelnut base. And there’s a hazelnut brownie situation with salted caramel.

Three metal dishes of gelato with waffle cookies.

Advertisement

Cotogna pastry chef Jennifer Felton spent a week at the Carpigiani Gelato University near Bologna in 2019 to learn the tricks of the trade
Sarah Huber

Cotogna, too, embracing frozen dessert by bringing back its gelato cart on summer Fridays in anticipation of its upcoming gelato shop, Gelateria di Cotogna, opening in early 2025 just a block away at 596 Pacific Avenue. Back in March, Cotogna’s fan-favorite gelato went viral thanks to a visit from Kim Kardashian, who enjoyed the vanilla and honeycomb. Originally, a gelato cart rolled around the dining room with a huge mound of fresh vanilla to be scooped tableside. During the pandemic they switched to selling pints out the door, and eventually built four custom wooden carts for private events. This summer, they’re parking one in front of the restaurant on Fridays to serve scoops and cones, along with selling veggies from their farm and wines from the cellar. They’ll soon upgrade to a TeknéItalia, which should arrive in mid-August.

Longtime pastry chef Felton has geeked out for years developing these recipes. “I love the science and possibilities of gelato,” Felton says. “You have one single product, but endless flavors and options.” In 2019, when she was trying to take a vacation, chef Michael Tusk convinced her to spend a week at the Carpigiani Gelato University near Bologna. She says gelato — such as the crema di gelato that includes egg yolk — runs a touch richer in that region. Felton relies on local and organic dairy, strawberries from Cotogna’s own farm, and pistachios from Sicily. She refuses to use any fruit purees or nut pastes, doing all of her own grinding. Don’t underestimate the original vanilla flecked with quality vanilla bean: “It’s not cheap to make,” she says. Everyone asks for the honeycomb, which folds in a crush of honeycomb candy, coated in a little coconut oil to keep it crunchy (although Felton’s personal favorite is espresso).

Advertisement

A red gelato spins in an ice cream churn.

Chef and owner Ilary Biondo uses organic fruit in her gelato.
Hila Gelato
Advertisement

A cannoli is held out by Biondo with two types of gelato.

Advertisement

Biondo will also cram a cannoli full of gelato at Hila.
Hila Gelato

Hila Gelato is a new spot on Valencia Street owned by an actual Sicilian. Chef and owner Ilary Biondo took over this storefront from Xanath Ice Cream in 2023, and Hila Gelato just celebrated its one-year anniversary. Biondo owned a gelato shop in Palermo for 10 years, before moving to San Francisco last year. “You can find some gelato here in San Francisco,” says Biondo, as translated by her wife Cecilia Casarini. “But coming from my experience making artisanal gelato in Italy, I couldn’t find anything like that.” She’s been shocked to realize how many ice cream shops in the Bay Area rely on premade bases, syrups, and mix-ins. She just got back from visiting her mother in the countryside, where they like to make olive oil on the family farm. She grew up chasing after the gelato truck, which in Sicily apparently meant a Vespacar mini truck trundling around on three wheels.

Biondo’s style is emphatically fresh and light, and she would even say healthy, although that’s a whole other conversation between you and your dietitian. She makes many of her bases with only three ingredients — organic milk, local fruit, and scant sugar. Some of the bases aren’t even cooked, she simply purees and lets the flavors bloom. When people stroll into the shop, they’re greeted by a mechanical chorus: she had a custom gelato case made in Texas, which continuously spins small batches of each flavor while on display. The fans especially love the strawberry, pistachio, olive oil, gianduia (chocolate and hazelnut), and croccante amarena (cherry, chocolate chip, and biscuit crumbles). Oh, and you can get any flavor loaded into a cannoli.





Source link

San Francisco, CA

San Francisco Ballet presents ‘Don Quixote’

Published

on

San Francisco Ballet presents ‘Don Quixote’


Dancer Madeline Woo, who is performing as Kitri, the leading lady, in Don Quixote, talks first year with San Francisco Ballet. Don Quixote performance dates run from Thursday, March 19 – Sunday, March 29.

Show more



Source link

Continue Reading

San Francisco, CA

Power Play: The fallout from Cesar Chavez bombshell. Plus: Another Gaza moment for Wiener

Published

on

Power Play: The fallout from Cesar Chavez bombshell. Plus: Another Gaza moment for Wiener


This article is from Power Play, a twice-weekly newsletter rounding up the latest City Hall and local politics gossip. To sign up, visit The Standard’s newsletter page.

In a city where 95-year-old labor legend Dolores Huerta isn’t just an inspirational figure who appears in children’s books and sidewalk murals but an active force of nature who regularly walks arm-in-arm with striking workers — Wednesday’s report in The New York Times (opens in new tab) of her allegations of rape at the hands of the late Cesar Chavez shook the labor movement to its core. 

Already, Chavez’s alleged sexual abuse of girls and women connected to the farmworkers movement is spurring whispers of a reckoning for other labor leaders who have long been suspected of exploiting their power over members. As several organizers told Power Play, difficult discussions are already taking place.

Olga Miranda, president of SEIU Local 87, said the movement needs time to heal before any discussion of next steps — but in the end, abusers will be outed.

Advertisement

“Is there any other motherfucker who hasn’t been named?” she said. “I’m sure there are many jumping at an opportunity [to accuse abusers]. But I’m saying, give us time to process this.”

Miranda called women a “force” who have long powered the labor movement. “I have the privilege of having chosen the kind of job where the strength of my personality and the veracity of my voice carries to make company supervisors, business owners, regret the moment they fuck with any of our janitors in this industry,” she said. “Not a lot of people get to say they get to fight back.”

While it’s too early to tell if there will be a “me too”-style reckoning within the labor movement, the reverberations are being felt, especially considering Chavez’s local ties. 

Rudy Gonzalez, secretary-treasurer of the San Francisco Building & Construction Trades Council, said he remains proud of his Mexican American family’s legacy in the agricultural industry — but he worries about the darker story that Chavez now represents. 

“We’ve found inspiration in a small number of very significant Mexican American leaders,” he said. “But that’s harder right now. I want young Mexican American leaders, I want my son, to have people to look up to. It was never Cesar’s union; it was a workers’ union. That doesn’t erase the legacy, or the ongoing struggle, of the people who literally feed us every day.”

Advertisement

In addition to Chavez’s name being plastered across San Francisco institutions, his son-in-law, Richard Ybarra, is CEO of a Mission-based community organization, MNC Inspiring Success. The Times’ reporting states that Ybarra, who married Chavez’s daughter, was one of the labor leader’s bodyguards in the 1970s after federal authorities discovered an assassination plot. 

The Times reported that a different bodyguard drove Chavez and one of his underage victims, Debra Rojas, to a motel, where the 15-year-old was allegedly raped. Ybarra declined to comment for the Times article. Power Play emailed Ybarra and was referred to a comment from the Chavez family that said, “This is deeply painful for our family.”

As for Huerta’s legacy, it’s still being forged in real time. Her name is on a school and a parade in San Francisco. In January, she stood with LiUNA! Local 261 street cleaning workers on the steps of City Hall to fight for fair wages. Last year, she advocated for Proposition 50, Gov. Gavin Newsom’s redistricting measure.

For that reason and many others, the local labor movement is coalescing around Huerta as the new icon of the 60-year fight for farmworkers’ and immigrants’ rights. As one labor insider told Power Play, “My hot take: Soon everything with Cesar Chavez’s name on it in San Francisco will have Huerta’s instead.” — Joe Fitzgerald Rodriguez and Gabriel Greschler

Got tips? Send to us at [email protected].

Advertisement
Scott Weiner waves to the crowd during Chinese New Year parade. | Source: Minh Connors for The Standard

DON’T GET ME WRONG: State Sen. Scott Wiener, who you may have heard is running for Congress, obviously does not want to get caught in any geopolitical snafu after his viral Gaza genocide moment (opens in new tab) from a candidate forum in January. But Saturday’s Chinatown congressional forum appeared to briefly send him into panic mode — this time over Taiwan.

The moderator of the forum, hosted by Asian community groups and conducted in Chinese and English, asked whether the candidates agree with Rep. Nancy Pelosi’s high-profile and controversial 2022 trip to the democratic island, a region claimed by China as part of its territory. Wiener voiced his support while carefully avoiding overreach.

“I do not think Taiwan should be conquered,” Wiener said. “But we also have to make sure we don’t get to the point where there is any kind of war.”

However, the interpreter hired by the organizers to provide live translation twice misstated Wiener’s position, saying the candidate supported Taiwan’s independence. Wiener, who does not speak Chinese, was unaware of the gaffe, which would fly in the face of his and other Democrats’ longtime endorsement of a “One China” policy. But soon, Wiener was seen (opens in new tab) looking at his phone and becoming upset, glancing around, then grabbing the microphone.

“Apparently, I was misinterpreted saying that I support Taiwanese independence,” Wiener said. “I did not say that.”

Advertisement

The event’s organizer, Ed Lee Democratic Club president Thomas Li, immediately apologized and had a member of Wiener’s team correct the interpretation. Li said organizers had hired a professional interpreter and regretted the slip-up.

Wiener’s campaign told Power Play that a Chinese campaign staffer alerted Wiener that his answer was inaccurately interpreted, and Wiener immediately corrected the record.

“He supports Taiwan’s democracy, not Taiwanese independence,” Wiener’s spokesperson Joe Arellano said. “We appreciate the organizers allowing for the correction. It’s not easy to translate an entire debate, and it was an honest mistake.”

Taiwan remains a sensitive geopolitical topic and could be a vote-decider for some in the Chinese community. Among the candidates, Wiener struck the most hawkish tone on China, expressing support for Tibet and Uyghurs. According to Mission Local, Wiener got booed (opens in new tab) when he stated that he supported Pelosi’s trip. 

Saikat Chakrabarti, a former tech founder, said he opposed Pelosi’s visit. Supervisor Connie Chan, a Chinese immigrant who grew up in Taiwan, is arguably the most qualified to weigh in but chose to sidestep the question — an apparent move to avoid triggering controversy or inflaming partisans. The fourth candidate on the dais, political activist Marie Hurabiell, said she supported Pelosi’s trip but remains largely neutral on the issue. — Han Li

Advertisement

CHOPPING COMMISSIONS: After a year of endless deliberations, the effort to streamline San Francisco’s complex board and commission system has reached the part of the process when things get really feisty: Yes, it’s the Board of Supervisors’ turn to weigh in.  

The Commission Streamlining Task Force, mandated by 2024’s Proposition E, has presented its final report (opens in new tab) to the board. The plan would reduce the city’s 152 advisory bodies to 87 by eliminating some and merging others.

At the meeting Tuesday, a nearly three-hour discussion over the task force’s recommendations turned contentious. While many of the report’s diagnoses for eliminating repetitive or inactive bodies are considered noncontroversial, some speakers still voiced opposition, warning of weakened public oversight. At least one supervisor expressed strong dissatisfaction.

“You exceeded the mandate and inserted opinions and politics into the process,” Supervisor Shamann Walton told task force chair Ed Harrington. Walton is especially concerned that changes to the Police Commission would strip some of its authority.

Walton also criticized the task force for a lack of diversity. “The task force was about as diverse as a stack of $1 bills,” he quipped. 

Advertisement

Harrington said he understands the criticisms and expects the board to modify the recommendations. He noted that some of the loudest opposition is not about eliminating commissions but about proposals to move them from the city charter to the administrative code — a shift that critics believe to be a downgrade and would give the mayor and supervisors more power to remove the boards. Those include the Status of Women, Human Rights, Environment, and Youth commissions. There is also opposition to proposals involving the merging or elimination of advisory bodies focused on homelessness, aging and disability, and children and families.

If the process moves forward, charter-related changes must go before voters, with a final version potentially appearing on the November ballot. Expect plenty more fireworks before Election Day. — H.L.





Source link

Continue Reading

San Francisco, CA

Tentative deal would give SFPD a 14% pay raise as city faces projected $897 million budget shortfall

Published

on

Tentative deal would give SFPD a 14% pay raise as city faces projected 7 million budget shortfall


San Francisco Police Department headquarters at 1245 Third St. (Dan McMenamin/BCN) 

San Francisco police officers are set to receive a 14% pay raise over the next four years, thanks to a tentative deal between their union and the City and County of San Francisco.

The deal was unanimously approved by the San Francisco Police Officers Association Board of Directors on Wednesday. The next step in making the deal a reality is rank-and-file officers voting on the deal by April 1.

Advertisement

The measure also requires approval from the San Francisco Board of Supervisors.

What we know:

Advertisement

Negotiations for the pay raise began in January. In addition to the pay increase, there will be a retention bonus of 3% for officers who have been with the department for a minimum of five years. That bonus is designed to retain experienced officers as well as recruit new ones to join.

SFPD recruits, starting on their first day at the police academy, earn a salary of $119,262 a year.

“This agreement is a balanced one,” Louis Wong, the President of the SFPOA said in a press release.” It provides meaningful improvements that recognize the dedication, sacrifice, and professionalism of our officers, while also being fiscally responsible at a time when San Fancisco is facing a significant budget deficit.”

Advertisement

By the numbers:

San Francisco is facing a projected $877 million two-year deficit, which raises questions about how city leadership will maintain other programs and simultaneously fund the raises for the police department.

Advertisement

A recent report from think tank SPUR — the San Francisco Bay Area Planning and Urban Research Association — published earlier this month states police and firefighter contract negotiations will be “among the most significant financial decisions the city makes.”

“These contracts affect nearly $1 billion in annual spending — about 39% of the city’s discretionary budget. The current deficit projections assume that wages for police officers and firefighters will grow roughly in line with projected inflation, currently 3% to 3.3% annually,” the report states. “A wage increase just 2% above inflation could add $58 million to the deficit for police and fire alone, cutting into the city’s discretionary funds that would otherwise be spent on other services.”

The report notes that offering no raises will make it harder to recruit new officers to the department. Lurie in May, 2025 signed an executive order aimed at adding 500 new officers to the department. Then-Interim Chief Paul Yep announced in October of that year the department was seeing a surge in new recruits.

Advertisement

Big picture view:

The potential SFPD raises may further complicate Lurie’s already tense budget discussions going forward. The city in 2027 will negotiate contracts with its 31,000 other employees, and precedents set now could affect the entire workforce.

Advertisement

Earlier this month, Mayor Daniel Lurie’s office shared a plan to reduce expenses by cutting at least 500 jobs.

The city’s health department alone is expected to cut roughly $20 million in staff costs, equal to around 100 staffers.

An email sent to department heads from the city’s budget director, Sophia Kittler, said the city must eliminate at least $100 million in personnel spending. That email, obtained by the San Francisco Standard, was critical of the proposed budgets that departments sent to the mayor’s office earlier in the year.

Advertisement

Those proposals suggested eliminating roughly 100 positions.

San Francisco Police DepartmentNews



Source link

Advertisement
Continue Reading

Trending