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The Gelato Is Spinning Thick This Summer in San Francisco

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The Gelato Is Spinning Thick This Summer in San Francisco


Perhaps it’s all the Mediterranean dining around town but the last few summers have been filled with tinned fish and Aperol spritzes. So, naturally, San Franciscans are primed for dessert — do you want to get gelato? There are several fresh options for gelato around town right now, with a few new shops, windows, and even jaunty custom carts rolling in from Italy.

But what exactly is the difference between ice cream and gelato? A quick refresher: Technically, ice cream has more fat and more air, explains Roy Shvartzapel of From Roy. Ice cream is often made with cream and eggs, and it spins fast to incorporate air; Shvartzapel estimates ice cream at more than 50 percent overrun or added air, while his gelato maxes out at 20 to 25 percent. Gelato relies more on milk, so it’s lighter in fat — between 4 and 9 percent, many sources agree — and it spins slowly so it’s dense in texture and feels more intense in flavor. Pick up a pint at the market and it’s definitely more solid. Take a spoonful and, “You get all of the flavor on your tongue,” says Jennifer Felton, pastry chef at Cotogna. “You’re not working through the air. You don’t have a lot of fat. That flavor melts on your tongue immediately.”

No offense to anyone who loves soft serve, but it’s a treat to see talented pastry chefs crafting gelato programs from scratch, many inspired by their travels and memories of Milan, Bologna, and Sicily. So grab a mini spoon and let’s dig into it — the gelato is thick this summer in San Francisco.

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Che Fico Mercato

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Che Fico Mercato in Menlo Park threw open a Gelateria window at the beginning of the summer, which has already been a hit with the warm weather on the Peninsula. They’re also rolling out a new custom cart, so the gelato can hit the road and roam around the Bay Area, likely starting with a few farmers markets. It’s a super cute TeknéItalia model that just arrived from Italy, featuring snappy red paint with a pattern of purple figs and a scalloped awning. “The more people enjoying gelato, the better,” says co-owner Matt Brewer. “And what better way to bring gelato to the people?” They tapped a star pastry chef to develop their recipes — Shvartzapel, of panettone fame, has been consulting on the menu.

Shvartzapel says it was refreshing to take a break from crafting one of the most notoriously difficult breads in the world, and instead develop a few fresh gelato recipes for summer. He’s spent the most time in and around Milan, visiting his panettone mentor nearby in Brescia. “I definitely have gelato once a day when I’m there,” Shvartzapel says. He considers himself kind of a classicist when it comes to intense flavors. The team imports pistachio, hazelnut, and almonds from Italy, and folds in the same local and seasonal produce on display in the market. Shvartzapel still dreams about Silicilan pistachio gelato, which they’re now pairing with tart cherries. The cookies and cream flavor folds hazelnut brutti ma buoni cookies into a hazelnut base. And there’s a hazelnut brownie situation with salted caramel.

Three metal dishes of gelato with waffle cookies.

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Cotogna pastry chef Jennifer Felton spent a week at the Carpigiani Gelato University near Bologna in 2019 to learn the tricks of the trade
Sarah Huber

Cotogna, too, embracing frozen dessert by bringing back its gelato cart on summer Fridays in anticipation of its upcoming gelato shop, Gelateria di Cotogna, opening in early 2025 just a block away at 596 Pacific Avenue. Back in March, Cotogna’s fan-favorite gelato went viral thanks to a visit from Kim Kardashian, who enjoyed the vanilla and honeycomb. Originally, a gelato cart rolled around the dining room with a huge mound of fresh vanilla to be scooped tableside. During the pandemic they switched to selling pints out the door, and eventually built four custom wooden carts for private events. This summer, they’re parking one in front of the restaurant on Fridays to serve scoops and cones, along with selling veggies from their farm and wines from the cellar. They’ll soon upgrade to a TeknéItalia, which should arrive in mid-August.

Longtime pastry chef Felton has geeked out for years developing these recipes. “I love the science and possibilities of gelato,” Felton says. “You have one single product, but endless flavors and options.” In 2019, when she was trying to take a vacation, chef Michael Tusk convinced her to spend a week at the Carpigiani Gelato University near Bologna. She says gelato — such as the crema di gelato that includes egg yolk — runs a touch richer in that region. Felton relies on local and organic dairy, strawberries from Cotogna’s own farm, and pistachios from Sicily. She refuses to use any fruit purees or nut pastes, doing all of her own grinding. Don’t underestimate the original vanilla flecked with quality vanilla bean: “It’s not cheap to make,” she says. Everyone asks for the honeycomb, which folds in a crush of honeycomb candy, coated in a little coconut oil to keep it crunchy (although Felton’s personal favorite is espresso).

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A red gelato spins in an ice cream churn.

Chef and owner Ilary Biondo uses organic fruit in her gelato.
Hila Gelato
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A cannoli is held out by Biondo with two types of gelato.

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Biondo will also cram a cannoli full of gelato at Hila.
Hila Gelato

Hila Gelato is a new spot on Valencia Street owned by an actual Sicilian. Chef and owner Ilary Biondo took over this storefront from Xanath Ice Cream in 2023, and Hila Gelato just celebrated its one-year anniversary. Biondo owned a gelato shop in Palermo for 10 years, before moving to San Francisco last year. “You can find some gelato here in San Francisco,” says Biondo, as translated by her wife Cecilia Casarini. “But coming from my experience making artisanal gelato in Italy, I couldn’t find anything like that.” She’s been shocked to realize how many ice cream shops in the Bay Area rely on premade bases, syrups, and mix-ins. She just got back from visiting her mother in the countryside, where they like to make olive oil on the family farm. She grew up chasing after the gelato truck, which in Sicily apparently meant a Vespacar mini truck trundling around on three wheels.

Biondo’s style is emphatically fresh and light, and she would even say healthy, although that’s a whole other conversation between you and your dietitian. She makes many of her bases with only three ingredients — organic milk, local fruit, and scant sugar. Some of the bases aren’t even cooked, she simply purees and lets the flavors bloom. When people stroll into the shop, they’re greeted by a mechanical chorus: she had a custom gelato case made in Texas, which continuously spins small batches of each flavor while on display. The fans especially love the strawberry, pistachio, olive oil, gianduia (chocolate and hazelnut), and croccante amarena (cherry, chocolate chip, and biscuit crumbles). Oh, and you can get any flavor loaded into a cannoli.





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San Francisco court clerks strike for better staffing, training

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San Francisco court clerks strike for better staffing, training


The people cheering and banging drums on the front steps of San Francisco’s Hall of Justice are usually quietly keeping the calendars and paperwork on track for the city’s courts.

Those court clerks are now hitting the picket lines, citing the need for better staffing and more training. It’s the second time the group has gone on strike since 2024, and this strike may last a lot longer than the last one.

Defense attorneys, prosecutors and judges agree that court clerks are the engines that keep the justice system running. Without them, it all grinds to a slow crawl.

“You all run this ship like the Navy,” District 9 Supervisor Jackie Fielder said to a group of city clerks.

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The strike is essentially a continuation of an averted strike that occurred in October 2025.

“We’re not asking for private jets or unicorns,” Superior Court clerk employee Ben Thompson said. “We’re just asking for effective tools with which we can do our job and training and just more of us.”

Thompson said the training is needed to bring current employees up to speed on occasional changes in laws.

Another big issue is staffing, something that clerks said has been an ongoing issue since October 2024, the last time they went on a one-day strike.

Court management issued their latest statement on Wednesday, in which the court’s executive officer, Brandon Riley, said they have been at an impasse with the union since December.

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The statement also said Riley and his team has been negotiating with the union in good faith. He pointed out the tentative agreement the union came to with the courts in October 2025, but it fell apart when union members rejected it.

California’s superior courts are all funded by the state. In 2024, Sacramento cut back on court money by $97 million statewide due to overall budget concerns.

While there have been efforts to backfill those funds, they’ve never been fully restored.

Inside court on Thursday, the clerk’s office was closed, leaving the public with lots of unanswered questions. Attorneys and bailiffs described a slightly chaotic day in court.

Arraignments were all funneled to one courtroom and most other court procedures were funneled to another one. Most of those procedures were quickly continued.

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At the civil courthouse, while workers rallied outside, a date-stamping machine was set up inside so people could stamp their own documents and place them in locked bins.

Notices were also posted at the family law clinic and small claims courts, noting limited available services while the strike is in progress.

According to a union spokesperson, there has been no date set for negotiations to resume, meaning the courthouse logjams could stretch for days, weeks or more.



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Which San Francisco Giants Prospects Are Real Depth vs. Marketing Names

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Which San Francisco Giants Prospects Are Real Depth vs. Marketing Names


The San Francisco Giants are likely to break camp with one of their top prospects on the 26-man roster. But they’re all getting plenty of work in camp.

The thing is, just because a prospect doesn’t make a 26-man opening day roster doesn’t mean they can’t help a Major League team at some point in the season. Others, for now, are working on developing talent.

In this exercise, five prospects that are part of Major League camp were selected to determine if they’re real depth this season or if they’re marketing names — for now. Marketing names can become real depth before one knows it, such as the first Giants prospect listed.

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Bryce Eldridge: Real Depth

San Francisco Giants Bryce Eldridge | Joe Camporeale-Imagn Images
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Eldridge has nothing left to prove at the minor league level after he was selected in the first round in the 2023 MLB draft. Back then, he was the classic example of a marketing name, one that creates buzz in the organization and with fans.

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But, after more than two years of development and a taste of the Majors, he’s real depth. He’s expected to make the opening day roster and share time at first base and designated hitter with Rafael Devers, one of the game’s most established sluggers.

On Wednesday, he hit his first spring training home run, one of three in the 13-12 loss to the Milwaukee Brewers.

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Blake Tidwell: Real Depth

Tennessee pitcher Blake Tidwell | Brianna Paciorka/News Sentinel / USA TODAY NETWORK

Tidwell was acquired from the New York Mets in July in the Tyler Rogers trade. He only pitched in four games for the Mets, so he still has prospect status. But that MLB service time, combined with his early impressions in camp, make him real depth for a team that only has one or two spots available on the pitching staff.

Tidwell may not make the team out of camp for opening day. But he’s one of those prospects that could make his way to San Francisco during the season due to injury or underperformance. It’s an example of using the time in spring training wisely and paving the way for a future promotion.

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Will Bednar: Real Depth

Mississippi St. Bulldogs pitcher Will Bednar. | Steven Branscombe-Imagn Images
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The Giants have been waiting for their first-round pick in the 2021 MLB draft to pay off, and this might be the year that Will Bednar finally makes the jump to the Majors. He’s in Major League camp and he’s been converted into a reliever in the past couple of seasons.

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He went 2-3 with a 5.68 ERA in 38 games, his full season as a reliever. But he’s impressed the new coaching staff during camp and there’s enough buzz around him to consider him a potential call-up during the season. He’s in his fifth professional season so the Rule 5 draft is a consideration this coming offseason.

Parks Harber: Marketing Name

For now, the young third baseman is going to create a lot of buzz in the farm system in 2026, but he isn’t a threat to anyone’s job yet. Picked up in the Camilo Doval trade, he only has 102 minor league games under his belt after he was signed as an undrafted free agent by the New York Yankees. He got his first spring training hit on Wednesday. His career slash of .312/.413/.528 is encouraging but he hasn’t played higher than High-A Eugene.

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Bo Davidson: Marketing Name

San Francisco Giants left fielder Bo Davidson. | Rick Scuteri-Imagn Images
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The Giants signed Davidson as an undrafted free agent and he’s starting to generate real buzz in spring training as a non-roster invitee. He’s not quite real depth yet because he has yet to play above Double-A Richmond. But the way he’s playing in the spring he should be at Sacramento sometime this season, which puts him in the position to be real depth.

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He’s hit well at every stop, but he showed off more power than ever last season. He hit a career-best 18 home runs and 70 RBI as he slashed .281/.376/.468. He played 42 games at Richmond last season.




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Three Takeaways as Giants Suffer First Spring Training Loss of Campaign

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Three Takeaways as Giants Suffer First Spring Training Loss of Campaign


The San Francisco Giants weren’t giving up that undefeated spring training slate without a fight, apparently.

Wednesday’s game between the Giants and the Milwaukee Brewers came down to a raucous ninth inning that saw the two teams combine for seven runs. Milwaukee had the final at-bat and rallied to win, 13-12.

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A lot happened in this one, not the least of which was Harrison Bader’s home run putting a dent in a food truck.

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Here are three important takeaways from the game.

Adrian Houser’s Giants Debut

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San Francisco Giants pitcher Adrian Houser. | Rick Scuteri-Imagn Images

Before this game got out of hand, Adrian Houser made his first spring training start and looked solid.

He pitched two innings, giving up three hits, one run and one walk. He also allowed a home run. He threw 36 pitches, 23 of which were strikes. The right-hander figures to be the third or fourth starter in the rotation, depending upon how San Francisco wants to line up Houser and Tyler Mahle behind Logan Webb and Robbie Ray.

Houser resurrected his career last season with the Chicago White Sox and the Tampa Bay Rays, as he combined to go 8-5 with a 3.31 ERA in 21 starts, with 92 strikeouts and 38 walks in 125 innings. It was his best season since going 10-6 with Milwaukee in 2021.

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Power Surge

San Francisco Giants first baseman Bryce Eldridge. | Neville E. Guard-Imagn Images
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The Giants are looking for more slug in their lineup in 2026. Part of that is a long-term project that included signing Willy Adames last offseason and trading for Rafael Devers last June. Both hit at least 30 home runs last season. That’s sustainable power for San Francisco. But they could use more and some of that was on display in Wednesday’s game.

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Bader’s home run got a lot of attention. But two other Giants hit home runs, each slugging their first of spring training. Luis Matos, an outfielder that was the designated hitter, slammed one in the second inning. Then, Bryce Eldridge, who played first base, hit one in the third inning.

San Francisco’s ability to compete offensively with the top teams in the National League won’ just hinge on Adames and Devers. It will hinge on what others can produce, too. From that standpoint Wednesday was a good day.

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Parkr Harber’s Instant Offense

San Francisco Giants infielder Parks Harber. | Mark J. Rebilas-Imagn Images

Parks Harber isn’t going to make the opening day roster. But that’s not expected. The top prospect, acquired in the Camilo Doval trade from the New York Yankees, is off to a solid start to his first spring training with the Giants.

He entered Wednesday’s game as a pinch-hitter and in his only at-bat he claimed a hit and drove in a run. It pushed his spring training batting average to .333. The downside? It was his first hit of spring training. But, the fact that a young player entered the game as a pinch hitter and drove in a run is a good sign for his ability to come off the bench later in his career and give the Giants something.

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