Every time Mario DeMira slides behind the wheel and turns the key, he holds his breath.

“Sometimes you’ve gotta work with it, you know, give it a couple turns, pray a little bit,” DeMira said.

After a few tense moments, he’s on his way. A little clunky, but not bad for a vehicle that’s been around for 80 years. It’s a jeepney, and San Francisco’s most photographed vehicle you’ve never heard of.   

After World War II, the U.S. left military jeeps behind in the Philippines. Instead of letting them rot, locals stretched them out, hand-painted them, and turned them into one of the most beloved forms of public transportation in the country. 

And they did it in style.

“The jeepneys in the Philippines are very ornate,” DeMira said. “The drivers and Filipino people in general are loud and colorful personalities.”

Wherever this one goes, it stops traffic. People stare. They wave. They reach for their phones.

DeMira is the assistant director of SOMA Pilipinas, San Francisco’s Filipino Cultural District, and the man behind the wheel of the last jeepney in the city. It was donated to the organization by Bay Area-based pop musician Toro y Moi after it was used in one of his music videos for a song on his 2022 album Mahal.

But even this beloved icon has hit a speed bump. Back in the Philippines, the government is putting the brakes on jeepneys, phasing them out for modern vehicles. For DeMira, it’s a road he understands, even if he doesn’t love where it leads.

“I get it,” he said. “You want to modernize. But you gotta do it in a way that still holds onto a piece of that history and that culture.”

Speaking of history, it arrived at the most inopportune moment, in the form of thick, white smoke billowing from the tailpipe, bringing the tour to an early close. For DeMira, it comes with the territory.

“Part of the charm and part of the headache,” he said.

DeMira drove the jeepney straight to the garage. He said it should be back on the road soon. Because if there’s one thing this old jeep has proven, it always finds its way back. And that’s not just blowing smoke.

To reserve a tour, visit somapilipinas.org.

DENVER (KDVR) — After a cool and wet start to the week, more showers and a warming trend will move into Denver’s weather forecast. 

Winter weather advisories and winter storm warnings for accumulating snowfall leading to difficult travel in the high country will expire at 9 p.m. on Monday. 

Weather tonight: Showers, cold 

Showers will continue Monday evening, then taper off overnight.  

Low temperatures will fall to the 30s, allowing mostly for a chilly rain with a few wet snowflakes trying to mix in.  

The cold temperature has triggered a frost advisory from Monday night through Tuesday morning. Remember to protect pipes and plants so frost does not cause damage. 

Weather tonight: Cold night ahead

Tuesday will start with patchy areas of morning fog and chilly temperatures.  High temperatures will climb to the 50s as clouds continue to build in ahead of afternoon and evening rain showers. 

Looking ahead: More showers, warmer weekend 

More showers and the chance for thunderstorms are in the forecast for Wednesday. Temperatures will only reach the upper 50s, which is nearly 15 degrees cooler than normal for this time of year.

Thursday will start with sunshine, then clouds will increase ahead of the chance for showers and storms as highs cling to the 60s. Another round of showers and storms moves in Friday, with temperatures again getting capped in the 60s.

There is a slight chance for showers and more afternoon thunderstorms Saturday, followed by sunshine and a high near 80 degrees Sunday. 

Writing and photography by West Smith

Furries are everywhere.

That’s the biggest lesson I took away from attending my first furry convention earlier this year. Before that, I think I still carried some lazy stereotype in my head about the furry community being made up exclusively of Reddit-dwelling teenagers. Then I got there and met doctors, lawyers, medical technicians, people from every possible walk of life. The point was driven home a few months later when my urologist casually told me he’d been to a few furry conventions himself.

So by the time I found myself heading to Furry Night at the Opera, the idea of a furry opera singer didn’t feel surprising at all; if anything, it felt obvious.

The evening was championed by baritone Christian Pursell, better known in the fandom as Chester the Geroo, who plays Escamillo in Carmen. As far as anyone can tell, this was the first official Furry Night at the opera in history, a genuinely historic moment for the fandom and the city of Seattle.

Seattle Opera seemed proud to be hosting it. After seeing how successful the night was, I’d be surprised if other opera houses didn’t soon follow (fur)suit.

At first, I wasn’t entirely sure what “Furry Night at the Opera” meant. Was this an event exclusively for furries? Would I feel out of place showing up without a tail? When I asked someone at the box office, they laughed and said, “This is a 2,800-seat house. There’s going to be all kinds of people here, not just furries.” They were right, the crowd wasn’t all fur-suited. But this wasn’t a typical opera crowd either. In the lobby, there were dozens of oversized, fur-covered heads weaving through the crowd (they were asked to remove their heads for the show, to make sure they didn’t block the view of the stage).

Furries arrived in formal wear, some toting their fursuits in. Pursell arrived wearing his authentic Escamillo matador costume from that evening’s performance of Carmen. Before the show, he hosted a free meet-and-greet, handing out stickers, signing posters, and giving out head pats.

In line with his matador costume, he also staged a mock bullfight with someone in a bull costume.

It is difficult to know exactly how many furries attended the event. More than 50 guests used the special Furry Night coupon code, though additional attendees purchased regular tickets to attend the pre-show meet-and-greet.

But not everyone had to check their fursuits. Local cidery Slightly Furry rented out a private box for the event so they could stay suited up for the performance.

Opera has a reputation for being a stuffy, upper-class art form, something exclusive, intimidating, and maybe not entirely meant for me. But just as my assumptions about the furry community turned out to be lazy and incomplete, so too were my assumptions about the opera. Furry Night at the Opera reminded me that both are, at their best, invitations: spaces built around passion, community, and the simple joy of sharing an experience with others. Art, it turns out, is for everyone.

Related