Genoa, the Silver State’s first town — older than Nevada itself — is a cozy relic steeped in history that may as well double as a Hallmark movie set this time of year.
Just 30 minutes from South Lake Tahoe, Genoa is a place where visitors can escape from the hustle and bustle, trading crowds for peaceful snow fall on the nearby Sierra Nevada mountain range as Main Street comes alive with a twinkle of sparkling lights and a slight winter chill.
Historic doesn’t mean dated here, however. The tiny town (population 786) has a robust dining scene, offering gourmet fare unexpected in a village made up mostly of restored Victorian buildings and cattle ranches.
Genoa’s 19th century downtown located on Main Street is home to charming local businesses like antique shops, boutiques and cozy restaurants. (Courtesy of Visit Carson Valley)
Daytime activities
On Main Street, a collection of mid-1800s storefronts house a collection of mom-and-pop establishments, including boutique shops and homey restaurants.
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Here, you can start with breakfast at Flutter & Buzz Café. Open at 8 a.m. daily, it’s the perfect first stop off for an anti-inflammatory cardamom and cinnamon latte or a flavorful mimosa. The menu specializes in fresh breakfast and lunch fare and pastries baked in-house. There is an obvious affinity for local honey — hence the name — which appears as a main ingredient in several beverages and plates.
Once you’re fueled, you can begin Christmas shopping. The tree-lined streets boast adorable gift shops including Dancing Deer and Antiques Plus, which is so stuffed you’ll have to squeeze in and out of it.
One of the oldest surviving buildings in Nevada, The Pink House in Genoa is a 1855 home painted a fashionable cotton-candy hue in the 1870s and turned into a market and sandwich shop in the 2010s. (Photo by Whitney James)
When weather allows, consider getting into the great outdoors. The silent serenity of Genoa is inescapable as you walk the 2-mile path along River Fork Ranch Preserve, an 800-acre natural preserve and cattle ranch less than 2 miles from the center of town. The trail is dirt, so when it is wet, it can get fairly muddy, but on a dry day, the views of the snow-capped mountains can’t be beat.
Of course, snowshoeing is always an option (although the area isn’t exactly robust with tour operators, so you’ll need to pack your own snowshoes). When snow is falling in the Sierra Nevada foothills, both the Genoa Loop Trail and Sierra Canyon Trail make excellent destinations.
Nearby Mormon Station State Historic Park is an adorable place to stroll and let little kids get their wiggles out. There are restored covered wagons, lush lawns and an artifacts museum at the historic site that marks the town’s modest beginnings as a trading post founded by Mormon pioneers in 1851, before being renamed Genoa (after the Italian city) in 1855.
When Ike Marr and his wife, Stephanie, bought The Pink House in 2022, they decided to bring live music into the mix. (Courtesy of Visit Carson Valley)
For lunch, the square offers several options, including the casual Foothill Market serving chili cheese dogs and turkey club sandwiches at the counter. There’s also beer and wine on the menu, and it’s a good stop for edible souvenirs — everything from local goods such as Tahoe Toffee to specialty items shipped in from around the world. During the holiday season, the market even offers curated gift baskets that take the guesswork out of your holiday shopping.
Another worthy lunch option is The Pink House, which enjoys a modern pop of neon lights in an 1855-built home painted in a delicate hue that inspired the name. A smattering of pink Christmas trees decorate the lawn, which hosts live-music events year-round.
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For after-lunch drinks, take a stroll across the street to the Genoa Bar & Saloon — the oldest bar in Nevada — where the walls are covered with dusty old bras slung over antlers and other relics of the past, plus cocktails that allow you to catch a buzz for about $20 (drinks are $5-$12 each).
Genoa Bar & Saloon, the oldest bar in Nevada, maintains a rustic watering-hole vibe, as it is stuffed with relics of the past. (Photo by Abner Kingman)
At night
We’ve saved the best for last: dinner. Behind The Pink House, Daniel’s is a fine dining restaurant with a robust menu that pairs rustic French cuisine with Old Nevada hospitality. Its drool-worthy dishes include grilled duck breast topped with foie gras ($44) and scallops over a bed of wild rice risotto ($48).
Before or after your meal, stop into The Ice House, a standalone bar adjacent to the main dining room. Its name comes from its original purpose as a place to store ice before refrigeration. While much of the building has been redone, the large-stone walls are original. With less than 20 guests allowed in Daniel’s at any given time, it’s an intimate setting open only on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. The menu boasts more than 20 craft cocktails, 10 tap handles and more than 100 bottles of wine.
On select evenings, Main Street businesses host specialty evening activities for locals and visitors, sometimes staying open late to do so.
Warm goat cheese salad from the bar menu at Daniel’s in Genoa includes chévre, mixed greens, toasted hazelnuts and balsamic vinaigrette. (Courtesy of Visit Carson Valley)
When you’re ready to tuck in for the night, the White House Inn, a remodeled mid-1800s home featuring modern amenities in a historic setting, is a great pick. The property’s original carriage house is now the inn’s best room, outfitted with a king-size bed and walk-in shower.
Another option is David Walley’s Resort, offering both overnight accommodations and day passes to one of Nevada’s best outputs — natural hot springs. The rustic lodge houses five hot springs once enjoyed by the pioneers and set among the Sierra Nevada mountains, as well as a restaurant, the 1862 Restaurant & Saloon Bar.
David Walley’s Resort, set among the Sierra Nevada mountains in Genoa, houses five hot springs once enjoyed by the pioneers. (Courtesy of Visit Carson Valley)
If You Go
Flutter & Buzz Café: Open 8 a.m.-2 p.m. daily, 2285 Main St., Genoa, (775) 215-0245; flutter-buzz-cafe.square.site
Dancing Deer: Open 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Sundays, 2299 Main St., Genoa, (775) 782-5777; genoadancingdeer.com
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Antiques Plus: Open 10 a.m.-4 p.m. daily, 2242 Main St., Genoa, (775) 782-4951
River Fork Ranch Preserve: Open 7 a.m.-7 p.m. daily, 381 Genoa Lane, Minden, (775) 322-4990
The Ice House at Daniel’s in Genoa offers 20 craft cocktails, 10 tap handles and more than 100 bottles of wine. (Courtesy of Digiman Studio)
Mormon Station State Historic Park: Open 10 a.m.-4 p.m. daily, 2295 Main St., Genoa, (775) 782-2590; parks.nv.gov/parks/mormon-station
Foothill Market: Open 10:30 a.m.-7 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays and 10 a.m.-5 p.m. on Sundays, 2299 Main St., Genoa, (775) 392-0527; foothillmarket.com
The Pink House: Open 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays and 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays, 193 Genoa Lane, Genoa, (775) 392-4279; thepinkhousegenoa.com
The White House Inn, a remodeled mid-1800s home, has the welcoming atmosphere and vintage charm of a grandma’s house. (Courtesy of Visit Carson Valley)
Genoa Bar & Saloon: Open 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays and 10 a.m.-midnight Fridays-Saturdays, 2282 Main St., Genoa, (775) 782-3870; travelnevada.com/bars/genoa-bar-saloon
Daniel’s: Open 5-9 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays, 2291 Main St., Genoa, (775) 392-1822; danielsgenoanv.com
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White House Inn: 195 Genoa Lane, Genoa, (775) 870-7203; whitehouseinngenoanv.com
David Walley’s Resort: 2001 Foothill Road, Genoa, (775) 782-8155; holidayinnclub.com/explore-resorts/david-walleys-resort
Gov. Sisolak, health officials urge those who can help to join Battle Born Medical Corps
Nevada Governor Steve Sisolak along with the state health officials urged Nevadas to those who can help to join Battle Born Medical Corps. Nevada Department of Health and Human Services and the Nevada Health Response Center joined to call on health care providers and health care administrations to assist in the state’s COVID-19 pandemic response. Gov.
Reno launches pilot program to lease vacant downtown storefronts and sublet to small businesses. Program is expected to launch in fall 2026.
There’s a debate over on Reddit right now about how dogs should be kept on leashes around town, on trails, or anywhere in public that’s not a dog park.
I should clarify: When I say “debate,” I mean that several users have created posts about how dogs should be kept on leashes, and almost every response is 100% in agreement.
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Go ahead and look at the posts; nobody’s putting together a spirited defense of letting their pets run around licking strangers and pooping on nature. With that kind of general consensus, I’d want to say that leashing our dogs is one of Reno-Sparks’ “unwritten rules.”
Except for two things: One, this rule is very much written (see Chapter 95.220 of the Washoe County Code: “Owners must have animals leashed no more than 6 feet in length and under immediate control at all times.”)
And also: The phrase “unwritten rules” implies that everyone goes along with it without even thinking. But we’ve all interacted with dog owners on local trails, letting their giant furballs knock over toddlers or chase goslings through the wetlands.
“Aw, he’s just a big puppy!” they’ll say, followed up with a halfhearted, “Down, Barnaby.”
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Clearly, leashing dogs is not an unwritten rule because it’s constantly being broken. A true unwritten rule for hiking trails would be something that rarely ever gets broken, like “wear pants at all times.” Really, the leash thing is more like a wish list for society, alongside such things as:
Don’t mow before 8 a.m.
Signal your turns and lane changes.
Merge when you see a lane closure ahead, not at the last minute. (Yes, make all your arguments about how last-minute merging saves space. It all amounts to “I’m going to cut ahead of everyone else and pretend that it’s for the greater good.”)
If you’re driving a large vehicle, park at the far end of the lot.
Several more things about driving, actually.
But let’s move on. I’ve been wracking my brain to think of actual “unwritten rules” for Northern Nevada that outsiders might not grasp right away, and I didn’t come up with many. But here goes:
It’s not rude to keep your favorite spots a secret, even from friends and family: Got a favorite local park or Lake Tahoe beach? You’re not even required to tell your own mother about it, because word will get out and everything will be ruined. We value our personal space, and the community is too small to keep anything under wraps.
Side note: You can’t do this with businesses, because you need your burrito spot to stay crowded and busy. If nobody goes to your secret hot springs, it’s not going to suddenly go out of business and turn into a vape shop.
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On Tahoe beaches, you can claim one beach towel’s worth of space per person, and that’s it: If word gets out about your favorite beach, you’ll have to start your day battling for a parking spot (bonus unwritten rule: You can’t reserve a parking spot by standing in it.)
The slightly less annoying ― but still difficult ― territory battle will be on the beach itself. Everyone but you will have a pop-up tent, several coolers and some sort of sound system. But societal convention dictates that any group can only claim the square footage of one beach towel per person, and leave ample space to walk between their beach site and the next one over.
Twenty minutes is a long drive in Reno-Sparks, but four hours is completely reasonable if you’re heading out of town: Recent transplants from more urban places like the Bay Area or Las Vegas will drive for 45 minutes to get to the one Target they like best. Around here, that sounds like hell.
On the other hand, driving for several hours to go see ichthyosaur skeletons or attend a Basque festival or go to a Giants game is completely reasonable. I can’t explain why this is. It might have something to do with hatred of stoplights.
Settle in a bit before complaining about outsiders: Yes, we know you just got here, and you want to prove your worthiness by complaining about Californians or Southern Nevadans, because that’s our local sport.
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On average, we’re not nearly as closed off as people say; only about one-quarter of Nevadans were actually born here, so most of us know what it’s like to be the new kid. But at least wait until you’ve unloaded the last box from your U-Haul before you start griping about how new arrivals are pricing everyone out.
You, on the other hand ― you, the person reading this article right now! ― know a lot more unwritten rules for Northern Nevada. Either that, or you have ideas on what should be unwritten rules. Send them my way at bmcginness@rgj.com, and we’ll debate all of them next week.
Guys, we’re bringing back Shopko
What lost places in Reno-Sparks should we bring back? That’s the question I posed last week; here’s what you said:
Let’s start with department store ShopKo, which had the highly underrated slogan, “Say hello to a good buy.” We had three ― on South Virginia, Mae Anne and Oddie Boulevard. Lauri Ferguson wrote in to compliment the selection, and noted “their products lasted too.” Sadly, the entire chain disappeared nearly a decade ago, so bringing them back might be the heaviest lift ever.
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“Bring back Famous Murphy’s,” wrote E. Pollard. “Can’t believe it ever closed and was then bulldozed and has been an empty dirt lot for more than 25 years.”
For the record, it’s actually been 18 years since it closed and 11 years since it was bulldozed, but the point stands.
“The purpose of the demolition is to make way for a new development being planned at this site,” developers told the RGJ in 2015. Anyway, it’s still an empty lot.
And finally, I had lamented over the lost Century Theaters dome on South Virginia, but Kurt Kinder mentioned one even more venerable, but equally lost: the Granada Theater, which originally opened in 1916, burned down in 1953 and reopened in 1954. It was torn down in 1997 and is now the site of the Palladio.
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Brett McGinness is the engagement editor for the Reno Gazette Journal. He’s also the writer of The Reno Memo — a free newsletter about news in the Biggest Little City.
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