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I visited an island just a 20-minute flight from Maui. Its empty beaches and local gems made it feel like a true paradise.

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I visited an island just a 20-minute flight from Maui. Its empty beaches and local gems made it feel like a true paradise.


  • I was born and raised on Maui, and I just visited the Hawaiian island Molokai for the first time.
  • In three days, I got to enjoy the island’s incredible views, small businesses, and quiet beaches.
  • Molokai encouraged me to slow down, appreciate nature, and spend meaningful time alone.

Growing up on the West Side of Maui, the island of Molokai was always in view, but I never made the short journey over — until now.

Molokai sits between Maui, Lanai, and Oahu, spanning 260 square miles. Many consider it to be one of least touristy and most well-preserved visitable Hawaiian islands.

It’s home to fewer than 10,000 residents. Although Lanai, for example, has a smaller population of just 3,200, it offers two world-class Four Seasons resorts, whereas Molokai has historically resisted large-scale tourism.

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There are no major resorts, chain stores, or even traffic lights on the island, making it feel like you’ve been transported back to old Hawaii.

I’ve always viewed Molokai as a beautiful and sacred place with a community protective of its land, culture, and pace — and not always eager for outsiders.

After visiting, I’m grateful to have finally experienced firsthand why the island is also lovingly known as The Friendly Isle.

Flying is the only way to get to and from Molokai.


Author Ashley Probst smiling in front of small plane

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I flew to Molokai.

Ashley Probst

A ferry once ran between my hometown of Lahaina and Molokai, but the route was discontinued in 2016, making the island even less accessible.

Today, small commuter planes are the only public means of getting to Molokai — typically a short, scenic 20-minute flight from Maui.

However, this limited access is a key factor behind why Molokai has remained the least touristy of the islands.

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My first day was spent on Molokai’s arid west side.


Aloha Maunaloa General store exterior, green building with brown steps

I visited a few shops in Maunaloa.

Ashley Probst

Known for its dry and rugged coastlines, this part of Molokai is dotted with kiawe trees, large patches of red dirt, and mostly empty beaches with views of southeast Oahu.

On my way to beach hop, I stopped in the small town of Maunaloa for refreshments at the convenience store and a visit to Big Wind Kite Factory, a mom-and-pop kite shop, and the adjacent Pineapple Gallery filled with art and souvenirs.

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My ultimate destination was Papohaku Beach, one of Hawaii’s largest white-sand beaches.


Empty beach with footprints in sand, clear blue sky

Papohaku Beach was almost empty during my entire visit.

Ashley Probst

Also known as Three Mile Beach, Papohaku Beach is one of the longest continuous beaches in the state.

I arrived around 2 p.m. on a Wednesday and stayed for over an hour.

On most islands, the afternoon is peak beach time, when shorelines are typically packed with families, sunbathers, and people playing in the waves. However, Molokai is different.

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Despite its size and beauty, Papohaku Beach was nearly empty: Only one other person walked along the water before disappearing, leaving me in peaceful seclusion.

The beach stayed incredibly peaceful throughout my visit.


Author Ashley Probst smiling on empty beach in Hawaii

I only saw one other person during my time at Papohaku Beach.

Ashley Probst

I didn’t see any lifeguards, snack stands, or shops for beach equipment rental. I wondered how visitors accustomed to more structured beach days — especially families with children — might experience it.

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Early December is a slower travel period across Hawaii, but even then, being alone on a beach this spectacular felt surreal — a perfect illustration of just how uncrowded Molokai is compared to the rest of the islands.

I visited some other beaches, but none felt as inviting as Papohaku.


Stones along shorline with waves behind them in Hawaii

Poolau Beach was also peaceful.

Ashley Probst

Poolau Beach, located just north of Papohaku, was completely empty as I sat to watch waves crash onto the rocky shoreline.

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Dixie Maru Cove — a small, sheltered beach at the very end of the West Side’s paved road — had just one other person there, but it felt surprisingly cramped after having Papohaku all to myself.

Next time, I’d return to Papohaku and spend the whole day there.

I checked into Hotel Molokai, one of the only traditional hotels on the island.


Hotel Molokai exterior

Hotel Molokai was surrounded by some lovely trees and greenery.

Ashley Probst

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Checking in took only five minutes, and my room was right around the corner from the lobby.

Walking the property, I noted the Hawaiian-style architecture, oceanfront pool, swaying hammocks, flowering trees and, sadly, the recently closed on-site bar and restaurant.

It felt comfortable and charming, but intentionally simple, with a focus on location and atmosphere rather than luxury amenities.

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To enjoy dinner and a sunset, I went to Molokai’s main town, Kaunakakai.


Town in Hawaii at sunset

Kaunakakai felt compact and quiet.

Ashley Probst

The town is small and compact with one main strip and a few short side streets lined by locally owned shops, grocery stores, and casual eateries.

Around the time I visited just before sunset, only some businesses were open (mostly markets and convenience stores) and a handful of people were walking around.

I was in awe as a pink shadow washed over the buildings, and cotton-candy clouds hugged the mountain ridges while the full moon gently rose above them.

By nightfall, the town felt calm and quiet, with very little activity after the last store closed — a stark difference from Hawaii’s more nightlife-driven destinations like Oahu or Maui.

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Live music pulled me into Paddlers Restaurant and Bar.


Plate with chicken pieces, sauce next to Kona Big Wave glass on table in evening

At Paddlers Restaurant and Bar, I got coconut shrimp and a cocktail.

Ashley Probst

With very few restaurants on the island, I was grateful to find one of the few places with live entertainment.

I ordered the coconut shrimp appetizer and a vibrantly colored cocktail.

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Both were delicious, but my total came to about $50 for two items plus tip, which felt more in line with what I’d expect at an upscale restaurant on another island.

At a casual, counter-service spot on Molokai, I assumed prices would mirror a typical plate lunch (usually under $20) and standard bar cocktails (often around $15).

But given the limited options in the area, the price could’ve been just about anything and I probably would’ve paid it.

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I ended the night with Molokai Hot Bread — a must-try local classic.


People waiting on line in well-lit hall area surrounded by dark

Molokai Hot Bread has been a staple here for decades.

Ashley Probst

Known for its late-night hours — on Molokai, that means 7 to 9 p.m. — this iconic spot is down a dimly lit alley around the corner from Kanemitsu’s Bakery & Coffee Shop.

The bread was worth the wait.


Piece of bread with guava jam on it

I get why so many love Molokai Hot Bread.

Ashley Probst

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I joined the line for this local favorite: a giant, pillowy bread loaf stuffed with fillings like my top picks of butter, mango, and guava jellies. It was delicious.

The next morning, I drove an hour from Hotel Molokai, just outside Kaunakakai, to the island’s lush east side.


View of empty road with water on one side, palm trees and hills on the other

Molokai kept impressing me with its views.

Ashley Probst

The coastal drive was stunning, with sweeping ocean views and sections without guardrails that added a sense of adventure and a reminder of how beautiful Hawaii can be when left untouched by development.

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Seeing Maui from a new angle — one that showcased the West Side where I grew up — was a memorable way to start the day.

A cultural hike through Halawa Valley — one of the oldest known Hawaiian settlements — was educational, intimate, and deeply meaningful.


Empty road surrounded by trees, greenery with waterfall in distance

Halawa Valley is on the east side of the island.

Ashley Probst

The family-run tour I booked began at 9 a.m. and featured teachings about Hawaiian history and cultural protocol, including blowing a conch shell to signal our arrival and leaving an offering at their ancestral altar.

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We were given an oral history lesson about the family, the history of Halawa Valley, and the transition from pre-kingdom times to modern tourism.

With only one other person in my tour group, the experience felt especially personal and a mirror of how tourism on Molokai remains purposefully small.

The trail through Halawa Valley to Moaula Falls was lush and historic.


Waterfall surrounded by trees, lush greenery

Moaula Falls looked incredible.

Ashley Probst

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Alongside our guide, we completed two river crossings, passed ancient residences and heiau (spiritual temples), and eventually reached Moaula Falls, a two-tiered cascade.

We spent nearly an hour taking in its beauty, and returned to the tour family’s home around 2:30 p.m.

If I could recommend only one Molokai activity, this would be it — and it’s well worth the $99 ticket.

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I spent the afternoon at nearby Halawa Beach.


Waters surroudned by palm trees, green mountains, stones

Halawa Beach is on Molokai’s eastern shore.

Ashley Probst

The quiet cove offered panoramic views back toward the valley, with clear turquoise water that shifted into deeper blues offshore.

Soft gray sand met the shoreline, turning black where the waves washed over it.

After one group left, I was the only person on the beach. It was easy to slip into Molokai’s rhythm: slow, intentional, and deeply connected to the land.

Instead of swimming, I did a spontaneous beach clean-up and collected a colorful pile of microplastics. It felt good to leave such a significant place better than I found it.

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Molokai Burger is the closest thing to fast food on the island.


Molokai Burger and fries with drink on red tray

Molokai Burger felt a bit nostalgic.

Ashley Probst

Though there is no McDonald’s on Molokai, this locally owned burger joint offers a drive-thru and familiar flavors with a homemade feel and Hawaiian style.

Inside, the red-and-white walls reminded me of In-N-Out, and Molokai imagery adorned the space — including an aerial shot of the same valley I’d hiked into just hours earlier.

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I ordered a cheeseburger, thick-cut fries, and a POG (passion-orange-guava) milkshake for $23, which I found to be fairly priced.

The dining room was quiet when I arrived, though the eatery saw a steady flow of patrons.

My burger tasted like an elevated take on a Big Mac, the fries were satisfying with a bit of extra salt, and the milkshake was deliciously tropical.

When I return, I’ll take my food to-go and enjoy it in a scenic location.

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Later, I returned to Molokai Hot Bread for a loaf to take home.


Line of people waiting at Molokai hot bread

The Molokai Hot Bread was that good.

Ashley Probst

When I asked about pre-ordering bread to pick up before my flight back to Maui, the auntie behind the counter was worried about my tight departure schedule.

She offered to make my loaf that night, refrigerate it in her own home, and bring it with her to work the next day so I could pick it up early.

It was one of the kindest things a stranger has ever done for me.

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Moments like this echoed a theme throughout my trip: Molokai’s residents consistently showed a level of warmth and generosity I’ve rarely experienced on other islands.

My final day began with a leisurely check-out and iced coffee.


Hand holding coffee in front of sugar/straw station

I was glad to get crushed ice at Hula Bean Cafe.

Ashley Probst

I returned my room key just before the 10 a.m. check-out, then headed to Hula Bean Cafe for a latte served over crushed ice — a small touch that I loved.

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I visited Kalaupapa Lookout early.


View over clear blue waters with rainbow over them

Kalaupapa Lookout took my breath away.

Ashley Probst

This scenic viewpoint in Palaau State Park overlooks the remote Kalaupapa Peninsula, once home to a community of people with leprosy who were forced into isolation before a cure was discovered.

To reach the lookout, I drove into the northern part of Molokai, where the elevation rises and the landscape shifts into cooler temperatures and peaceful forest.

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Fog can obscure the views, so I arrived early and was rewarded with clear skies and a gorgeous rainbow arching over the cliffside.

Reading the history placards brought back memories of learning about Kalaupapa in school while I looked out at the beautifully haunting scene below.

A short, steep walk led me to a sacred fertility stone.


Fetility stone in Hawaii surrounded by trees

I found some offerings at the rock.

Ashley Probst

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Legend has it that women who bring an offering and spend the night at Ka Ule O Nanahoa, also known as Phallic Rock, will return home pregnant.

The cluster of offerings at the base of the rock seemed to suggest some people wholeheartedly believe the lore.

Missed stops were a reminder of Molokai’s relaxed pace.


Macadamia nut farm closed sign in front of dirt road

I didn’t get to visit Purdy’s Macadamia Nut Farm.

Ashley Probst

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Purdy’s Macadamia Nut Farm was unexpectedly closed, and the Hoolehua Post Office crew was on their lunch break when I first arrived.

On Molokai, I found posted hours are more of a guideline than a guarantee — and tourism not dictating the rhythm of daily life is part of the island’s charm.

I returned to the small town center in Kaunakakai for lunch, shopping, and more exploring.


Molokai Museum exterior - green house

I spent about an hour browsing shops in Kaunakakai and I checked out the museum.

Ashley Probst

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Browsing local shops took less than an hour, and I left with a pareo (sarong) and a shell-shaped hair clip.

At the Molokai Museum, I learned more about the island’s history and was encouraged by locals to visit the First Friday market that evening.

Hoolehua Post Office’s Post-A-Nut activity was a highlight.


Coconut being held under

The Post-A-Nut program has been around for decades.

Ashley Probst

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Since 1991, this tiny post office has offered its Post-A-Nut program, which allows visitors to decorate and mail a coconut as a 3D postcard.

If you’re lucky, there may be free coconuts available, or you can bring your own as long as it meets agricultural requirements: no bug holes, no sprouting, and it must be fully dry.

There were only two coconuts left, so I chose my favorite, decorated it with the provided markers, and sent it off — a quirky, uniquely Molokai souvenir.

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My night ended with ice cream and one last meal.


Korean chicken on bed of greens in takeout cointainer

I got a chicken plate from Maka’s Korner.

Ashley Probst

I popped into Kamoi Snack-n-Go for a fresh scoop of Dave’s Hawaiian Ice Cream, a Hawaii-born chain that started on Oahu.

My kid-sized cup of honeydew melon-mochi tasted exactly like a Melona bar.

For dinner, I picked up a Korean chicken plate from Maka’s Korner to eat later, and it traveled surprisingly well — as did the hot bread.

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I left Molokai feeling recharged and grateful.


Author Ashley Probst smiling with rainbow and blue waters behind her

Molokai isn’t for every type of traveler.

Ashley Probst

I thoroughly enjoyed my time on the island, but my experience made me reflect on what type of traveler should — and shouldn’t — visit.

Molokai isn’t built for families seeking kid-friendly attractions, nightlife lovers eager to stay out past 9 p.m., luxury travelers who prioritize five-star resorts and fine dining, or those who rely on a packed itinerary of structured activities.

But that’s exactly what makes it special for the right traveler.

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This island is perfect for solo travelers like myself, couples craving a remote respite, and anyone genuinely interested in learning and respecting local culture.

After three days, I felt grounded, connected, and certain I’d return someday — and maybe a few familiar faces will remember me, too.





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Hawaii County Surf Forecast for April 26, 2026 | Big Island Now

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Hawaii County Surf Forecast for April 26, 2026 | Big Island Now


Forecast for Big Island Windward and Southeast


Shores Tonight Sunday
Surf Surf
PM AM AM PM
North Facing 3-5 2-4 2-4 2-4
East Facing 3-5 2-4 2-4 2-4
South Facing 1-3 1-3 1-3 1-3
TONIGHT
Weather Mostly sunny until 6 PM, then mostly
cloudy. Numerous showers.
Low Temperature In the upper 60s.
Winds Northeast winds 5 to 10 mph, becoming
northwest after midnight.
Tides
Hilo Bay Low 0.4 feet 04:55 PM HST.
High 2.1 feet 11:39 PM HST.
SUNDAY
Weather Partly sunny. Scattered showers.
High Temperature In the lower 80s.
Winds Northeast winds 5 to 10 mph.
Tides
Hilo Bay Low 0.1 feet 06:30 AM HST.
High 1.5 feet 12:37 PM HST.
Sunrise 5:54 AM HST.
Sunset 6:42 PM HST.

Forecast for Big Island Leeward


Shores Tonight Sunday
Surf Surf
PM AM AM PM
West Facing 2-4 2-4 2-4 2-4
South Facing 1-3 1-3 2-4 2-4
TONIGHT
Weather Mostly sunny until 6 PM, then mostly
cloudy until 12 AM, then partly cloudy.
Isolated showers.
Low Temperature In the upper 60s.
Winds Southwest winds around 5 mph, becoming
east in the evening, then becoming
north after midnight.
Tides
Kona Low 0.3 feet 05:32 PM HST.
High 1.7 feet 12:17 AM HST.
Kawaihae Low 0.4 feet 05:43 PM HST.
High 1.7 feet 12:14 AM HST.
SUNDAY
Weather Mostly sunny. Isolated showers.
High Temperature In the lower 80s.
Winds Southwest winds around 5 mph.
Tides
Kona Low 0.1 feet 07:07 AM HST.
High 1.2 feet 01:15 PM HST.
Kawaihae Low -0.1 feet 07:15 AM HST.
High 1.3 feet 01:33 PM HST.
Sunrise 5:58 AM HST.
Sunset 6:46 PM HST.

A medium-period northwest swell peaks tonight into Sunday, producing small to moderate surf for north and west-facing shores, before gradually declining through early next week. A hurricane-force low tracking across the Aleutian Islands tonight should send a moderate northwest swell towards Hawaii around the middle of next week.

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Short-period northeasterly energy is beginning to decrease this afternoon, which will keep below average surf along eastern exposures for the first half of next week due to the lack of any strong trade wind activity. Locally strong trade winds could return during the latter half of next week, which could bring rough and choppy surf with near normal wave heights.

Small background energy from the west will continue to linger through today and fade out on Sunday. A small southwest bump from the Tasman Sea is expected to slowly fill in tonight and peak on Sunday. No significant south swell is expected through the first half of next week. A fetch of gales passing east of New Zealand today could produce a small south-southwest swell for next weekend.

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NORTH EAST

am        pm  

Surf: Minimal (ankle high or less) surf.

Conditions: Semi choppy with ESE winds 5-10mph in the morning increasing to 10-15mph in the afternoon.

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NORTH WEST

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am        pm  

Surf: Minimal (ankle high or less) surf.

Conditions: Clean in the morning with ESE winds less than 5mph. Bumpy/semi bumpy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting W 5-10mph.

WEST

am        pm  

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Surf: Minimal (ankle high or less) surf.

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Conditions: Light sideshore texture in the morning with NNW winds 5-10mph. Bumpy/semi bumpy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting to the WNW.

SOUTH EAST

am        pm  

Surf: Minimal (ankle high or less) surf.

Conditions: Sideshore texture/chop with NE winds 10-15mph.

Data Courtesy of NOAA.gov and SwellInfo.com

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Climate disasters strain Hawaii’s insurance with higher rates, coverage gaps – Hawaii Tribune-Herald

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Climate disasters strain Hawaii’s insurance with higher rates, coverage gaps – Hawaii Tribune-Herald






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‘Trashy’: visitors complain over homeless encampment on Waikiki beach

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‘Trashy’: visitors complain over homeless encampment on Waikiki beach


HONOLULU (HawaiiNewsNow) – Feet away from the line of blue umbrellas providing shade for beachgoers at Fort DeRussy Beach Park, there is often a row of tents sheltering homeless people.

Unlike other homeless clusters throughout Waikiki and the rest of Oahu that typically sit on the outskirts of public spaces, the encampment sits right on the beach for all to clearly see.

“I didn’t expect it, I thought it would be a nicer area, cleaner, then you get people like that that affect the area, make it look trashy,” visitor Aiden Moffett said.

Some trash and abandoned belongings appeared to have been left behind this week, but there were hardly any tents after Department of Land and Natural Resources personnel cleared them out between April 1 and 2.

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The effort was a part of a monthly, joint operation to remove homeless encampments at Fort DeRussy, as well as the Ala Wai, Hilton Lagoon, and Waikiki Beach.

“Fortunately, there’s not any around here anymore, but I do hate to see it anywhere,” said visitor Patricia Orr.

Several visitors have been complaining about the camp on the military reservation, with some posting about it on social media.

A few guests at the Hale Koa Hotel also mentioned the tents in reviews on TripAdvisor.

One profile from Santa Clarita, California titled their April 16 post, “Need to (get) rid of ghetto tents on beaches,” adding, “This year for the first time, homeless tents line the beach. Imagine renting the highest rate room and stepping out on the lanai to a view of a beach gone ghetto. Shame on you, Hawaii. Your biggest revenues come from tourism. Literally thousands of other vacation destinations exist.”

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Other beachgoers were not bothered.

“If it’s not a bunch of trash all around, then I think it’s fine, and if they’re staying in their tents or not causing a mess, then it’s good,” visitor Landen Maley shared.

The U.S. Army Garrison Hawaii told Hawaii News Now:

“U.S. Army Garrison Hawaii is aware of the concerns regarding the encampment located on the beach near the Hale Koa Hotel and understands the impact this situation has on the community. We are working closely with our City and County of Honolulu, State of Hawaii and other local partners to help ensure the area remains safe, orderly, and accessible for all who use it.

Adding to the complexity of this issue, multiple agencies share responsibility for this area. The beach zone—from the beach walk concrete to the high‑water line—is under the jurisdiction of the State of Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources, which is responsible for enforcement and any required clearance actions in that space. The area extending from the beach walk concrete to Kalia Road falls under the jurisdiction of U.S. Army Garrison Hawaii.

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As part of a coordinated team effort, U.S. Army Garrison Hawaii will continue to support our partners in their response efforts, maintain safety for all users, and assist agencies and private organizations with the expertise to provide care and services to those who do not have a home. Together, we remain committed to addressing this issue in a respectful manner that considers the needs of all affected—those experiencing homelessness, visitors, beachgoers, and the broader community.”

DLNR responded to our request for comment with the following:

“The most recent DLNR cleanup of the Ala Wai, Hilton Lagoon, Ft. Derusy, and Waikiki Beach was April 1-2. Cleanups of this area occur about once a month during the late night to early morning hours and are typically joint operations with DLNR, City and HDOT working together to address multiple jurisdictions jointly. HPD and DOCARE both conduct patrols to support enforcement efforts between cleanups.

The military provides support by having Hale Koa’s security standing by to ensure no personal property goes on federal property. US Army Garrison Hawaiʻi has reached out to DLNR staff to see how the Army can assist further and are looking into options.”

City officials provided the following statement:

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“This continues to be a coordinated effort between the City, the State, and our nonprofit partners to address ongoing concerns in the area.

We are working closely with State and DLNR partners to facilitate additional joint operations that will allow us to move forward more effectively.

Our focus remains on balancing compassionate outreach with the need to address illegal activity and restore the area for the broader community.”

Copyright 2026 Hawaii News Now. All rights reserved.



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