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I grew up in Hawaii, but just now visited its ‘Friendly Isle.’ Here are 9 things that surprised me about my trip.

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I grew up in Hawaii, but just now visited its ‘Friendly Isle.’ Here are 9 things that surprised me about my trip.


  • Even as a Maui local, I was surprised by how familiar, yet new, Molokai felt.
  • The island’s slow pace and tight-knit community reshaped how I think about travel in Hawaii.
  • Molokai’s history, environmental realities, and quiet landscapes left a lasting impression.

Growing up on the west side of Maui, I could always see Molokai, but I never made the trek across the channel.

For years, it was easy to visit, with a ferry running between my hometown of Lahaina and Molokai’s main town, Kaunakakai.

When the ferry was discontinued in 2016, a short commuter flight on Mokulele Airlines became the primary way to access Molokai — one reason it’s considered the least touristy Hawaiian island.

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After 30 years, I finally visited Molokai. Here are the nine things that surprised me most about my trip to the so-called Friendly Isle.

Parts of Molokai looked and felt similar to Maui.


Trees in field of dirt in Hawaii

Molokai has some similarities to Maui.

Ashley Probst

Flying in, Molokai’s rugged mountains reminded me of Pu’u Kukui on Maui, with deep ridges layered in countless shades of green.

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Patches of iron-rich earth felt familiar, too. As a kid, I always called it “red Maui dirt,” but traveling throughout Hawaii taught me it isn’t exclusive to my home island.

At Molokai Airport and Pala’au State Park, towering ironwood trees instantly transported me back to Kapalua.

These similarities aren’t a coincidence: Over a million years ago, Maui, Molokai, Lāna’i, and Kaho’olawe were once a single landmass known as Maui Nui.

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Kindness wasn’t surprising, but being remembered was.


Line of people waiting at Molokai hot bread

Many locals I encountered were very kind.

Ashley Probst

Molokai’s nickname, the Friendly Isle, quickly proved accurate. Everyone I met was warm and welcoming — even before they knew I was from a neighboring island.

A man who worked at the Molokai Museum and Cultural Center invited me to the town’s monthly First Friday market. When I arrived, he greeted me by name, remembering it from the museum guestbook.

At Molokai Hot Bread, the woman behind the counter offered to store my bread in her personal fridge to keep it fresh until my flight home.

When I returned to pick it up, she greeted me by name, too.

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Driving without traffic lights was relaxing, not chaotic.


Road with mountains on one side, water on the other and winding road sign, 5 mph

I didn’t mind not having traffic lights.

Ashley Probst

I expected the absence of traffic lights to feel chaotic, especially in downtown Kaunakakai. Instead, driving here felt calm and intuitive.

There were still speed limits, stop signs, and road etiquette. Using your indicator felt even more important than usual.

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One exception was the east side of Molokai, where oceanfront roads were largely empty, and some stretches didn’t even have guardrails.

Though locals occasionally passed my rental car, I never encountered any traffic.

I kept running into familiar faces — people I already knew from Maui and new connections I made on Molokai.


Hotel Molokai exterior

I stayed at Hotel Molokai during my trip.

Ashley Probst

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Running into someone I knew on the flight there felt like a coincidence, but seeing another familiar face on the return trip reminded me just how interconnected Hawaii’s island communities are and how easily they intersect.

As I met new people throughout my trip, I kept seeing them elsewhere on the island.

My favorite moment came after a guided hike through Halawa Valley, where the only other participant turned out to be a fellow Hotel Molokai guest.

When we parted ways, she said, “Have a nice life,” but I reminded her there’s no Hawaiian word for goodbye — only a “hui hou,” meaning “until we meet again.”

Sure enough, we saw each other again at sunset back at the hotel, and we both laughed when I said, “I knew I’d see you again!”

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Learning from a cultural practitioner changed how I think about Hawaiian language and identity.


Lush area in Molokai covered in greenery, surrounded by trees and hills

I learned a lot about Molokai’s history.

Ashley Probst

My guided hike through Halawa Valley included stories rooted in oral tradition, offering insight into Molokai’s history and Hawaiian culture at large.

One surprising takeaway was that many Molokai residents don’t use ‘okina or kahakō in everyday language. According to my guide, this supports pronouncing the island as “Molo-kai” rather than “Molo-kuh-e” — a debate Iʻd heard many times growing up.

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He also shared that, in his family’s teachings, anyone born in the state is Hawaiian, while Native Hawaiian refers specifically to those with Hawaiian ancestry. That distinction stood out to me, especially since I’ve often corrected people who assumed I was Hawaiian simply because I was born and raised here.

Importantly, he emphasized that beliefs vary by family and region, and the best practice is always to ask and listen.

Finding litter and plastic debris on a remote beach brought a major global issue into perspective.


Beach in Molokai with stones along shore, hills in background

I spent some time on the beach picking up debris.

Ashley Probst

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After my hike, I walked down to Halawa Beach and was struck by the dramatic beauty of the valley meeting the ocean.

Once on the sand, I noticed countless pieces of trash and plastic embedded throughout the shoreline. Instead of swimming or sunbathing, I spent about 30 minutes picking up the multicolored fragments, eventually filling my hands with a rainbow of debris.

It was a sobering reminder that even Hawaii’s most remote places aren’t untouched by global environmental issues.

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Kalaupapa Lookout felt deeply grounding, both historically and spiritually.


Author Ashley Probst smiling with rainbow and blue waters behind her

I saw a beautiful rainbow in the area.

Ashley Probst

Kalaupapa’s history has stayed with me since childhood. This peninsula was once used as a forced quarantine for people with Hansen’s disease before a cure was discovered.

Seeing it in person was heavy and humbling, especially knowing access remains limited, even today.

What surprised me most was the spiritual energy of the place. I initially explored other parts of the park, but strong winds seemed to guide me toward the lookout, and I arrived just in time to see a vivid rainbow stretch across the cliffs.

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I knew hunting was a popular pastime, but I didn’t expect to see so many wild game birds and bones.


Animal skeleton in dirt

I saw more bones on the island than I had expected to.

Ashley Probst

I didn’t expect to see wild turkeys roaming near the road, or so many bones scattered across the island.

My Halawa Valley guide explained that game birds like turkeys, pheasants, and quail were introduced for hunting. I also learned that while Maui has a large axis deer population, the species was first introduced to Molokai.

During various hikes, I spotted everything from small joints to full skulls, and even a naturally shed deer antler.

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A slow pace was expected, but it felt surreal to experience so many empty spaces.


Empty road in Hawaii

I had a lot of roads and places to myself throughout my trip.

Ashley Probst

I expected Molokai to move slowly, but I didn’t anticipate just how empty it would feel.

From beaches and roads to entire towns, I often had places entirely to myself. Visiting in early December may have played a role, but the quiet seemed intrinsic to the island.

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That stillness is part of Molokai’s allure — and a testament to it being Hawaii’s least touristy island.

Seeing Maui from a distance gave me a new appreciation for home.


View of Maui in the distance from Molokai street

It was interesting to see my home from afar.

Ashley Probst

Not only did I get to see my home island from an angle I’d never experienced before, but returning from Molokai also made me appreciate how much there is to do on Maui.

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Any hint of island fever I’d been feeling quietly faded, replaced by gratitude for the pace and variety of home.





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Climate disasters strain Hawaii’s insurance with higher rates, coverage gaps – Hawaii Tribune-Herald

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Climate disasters strain Hawaii’s insurance with higher rates, coverage gaps – Hawaii Tribune-Herald






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‘Trashy’: visitors complain over homeless encampment on Waikiki beach

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‘Trashy’: visitors complain over homeless encampment on Waikiki beach


HONOLULU (HawaiiNewsNow) – Feet away from the line of blue umbrellas providing shade for beachgoers at Fort DeRussy Beach Park, there is often a row of tents sheltering homeless people.

Unlike other homeless clusters throughout Waikiki and the rest of Oahu that typically sit on the outskirts of public spaces, the encampment sits right on the beach for all to clearly see.

“I didn’t expect it, I thought it would be a nicer area, cleaner, then you get people like that that affect the area, make it look trashy,” visitor Aiden Moffett said.

Some trash and abandoned belongings appeared to have been left behind this week, but there were hardly any tents after Department of Land and Natural Resources personnel cleared them out between April 1 and 2.

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The effort was a part of a monthly, joint operation to remove homeless encampments at Fort DeRussy, as well as the Ala Wai, Hilton Lagoon, and Waikiki Beach.

“Fortunately, there’s not any around here anymore, but I do hate to see it anywhere,” said visitor Patricia Orr.

Several visitors have been complaining about the camp on the military reservation, with some posting about it on social media.

A few guests at the Hale Koa Hotel also mentioned the tents in reviews on TripAdvisor.

One profile from Santa Clarita, California titled their April 16 post, “Need to (get) rid of ghetto tents on beaches,” adding, “This year for the first time, homeless tents line the beach. Imagine renting the highest rate room and stepping out on the lanai to a view of a beach gone ghetto. Shame on you, Hawaii. Your biggest revenues come from tourism. Literally thousands of other vacation destinations exist.”

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Other beachgoers were not bothered.

“If it’s not a bunch of trash all around, then I think it’s fine, and if they’re staying in their tents or not causing a mess, then it’s good,” visitor Landen Maley shared.

The U.S. Army Garrison Hawaii told Hawaii News Now:

“U.S. Army Garrison Hawaii is aware of the concerns regarding the encampment located on the beach near the Hale Koa Hotel and understands the impact this situation has on the community. We are working closely with our City and County of Honolulu, State of Hawaii and other local partners to help ensure the area remains safe, orderly, and accessible for all who use it.

Adding to the complexity of this issue, multiple agencies share responsibility for this area. The beach zone—from the beach walk concrete to the high‑water line—is under the jurisdiction of the State of Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources, which is responsible for enforcement and any required clearance actions in that space. The area extending from the beach walk concrete to Kalia Road falls under the jurisdiction of U.S. Army Garrison Hawaii.

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As part of a coordinated team effort, U.S. Army Garrison Hawaii will continue to support our partners in their response efforts, maintain safety for all users, and assist agencies and private organizations with the expertise to provide care and services to those who do not have a home. Together, we remain committed to addressing this issue in a respectful manner that considers the needs of all affected—those experiencing homelessness, visitors, beachgoers, and the broader community.”

DLNR responded to our request for comment with the following:

“The most recent DLNR cleanup of the Ala Wai, Hilton Lagoon, Ft. Derusy, and Waikiki Beach was April 1-2. Cleanups of this area occur about once a month during the late night to early morning hours and are typically joint operations with DLNR, City and HDOT working together to address multiple jurisdictions jointly. HPD and DOCARE both conduct patrols to support enforcement efforts between cleanups.

The military provides support by having Hale Koa’s security standing by to ensure no personal property goes on federal property. US Army Garrison Hawaiʻi has reached out to DLNR staff to see how the Army can assist further and are looking into options.”

City officials provided the following statement:

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“This continues to be a coordinated effort between the City, the State, and our nonprofit partners to address ongoing concerns in the area.

We are working closely with State and DLNR partners to facilitate additional joint operations that will allow us to move forward more effectively.

Our focus remains on balancing compassionate outreach with the need to address illegal activity and restore the area for the broader community.”

Copyright 2026 Hawaii News Now. All rights reserved.



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Hawaii Traveler Just Found This 186% Hawaiian Airlines Fee Hike

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Hawaii Traveler Just Found This 186% Hawaiian Airlines Fee Hike


A reader booking a Hawaii flight just found and wrote to us about one fee that nearly tripled this week, from $35 to $100. But the bigger story is what else readers are finding at booking and onboard, from fees to meals, as Hawaiian’s old terms get replaced with ones the new airline can actually afford to keep.

This $35 fee just became $100.

Hawaiian’s longtime interisland cabin pet fee was $35, a price well below the rest of the airline industry. The cabin pet fee is now $100, whether flying interisland or between Hawaii and the mainland. Checked pets on interisland flights are listed at $60, so even that option now costs more than the old cabin fee many residents and repeat visitors knew. Moving from $35 to $100 is a 186% increase, and a quick interisland roundtrip with a pet now costs $130 more.

The new fee is closer to what mainland carriers already charge for pets in the cabin, where $100 to $150 has long been common. That doesn’t make the increase easier for longtime Hawaii travelers who booked expecting the old Hawaiian price, which was unusually low when measured against the larger airline system Alaska brought with it.

The reader who found out at booking.

One reader put it plainly after finding the new price while trying to make a pet reservation. The frustration was not just the dollar amount. It was the timing, the lack of warning, and another familiar Hawaiian practice that pulled the rug out from under travelers still assuming the old rules applied.

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“Alaska is not better in another way. Today I discovered that taking a pet on an inter island flight is now $100 as opposed to $35 with Hawaiian. Had I made my pet reservation just 2 days ago I would have saved $65 per way. Outrageous! This is not in the spirit of Aloha.”

For a traveler making a short island hop, the pet fee can now approach or exceed the passenger fare itself, depending on route, timing, and when the ticket was booked.

The meal that still isn’t.

The pet fee is one data point, and meals are another. Readers are describing gaps between what they expected from Hawaiian and what they received on flights, part of a longer pattern of small Hawaiian touches changing, being repriced, reduced, or still unclear during this week’s transition.

One reader booked a mainland flight under the Hawaiian name and reported the meal didn’t match what was promised.

“I just flew on a ‘Hawaiian’ flight from Hawaii to the mainland and having doubts about service changes, I checked 2 weeks, and then 72 hours in advance to pre-order a meal in premier class seating. It stated meals for that flight were complimentary but we got a bag of snack mix only. It is disappointing to experience these inconsistent changes among the Alaska takeover.”

Comments we have received at Beat of Hawaii say that complimentary meals are still being phased out. Readers are reporting, and employee accounts are pointing in the same direction. Food that once defined Hawaiian’s mainland and long-haul service is being reduced, reworked, or shifted. Alaska sent us a different message this week when we wrote about Hawaiian Air meal service:

“There are no changes to our complimentary meal service in our main cabins. During our PSS transition, several dual‑brand content updates were made to our webpages, and the link referenced in your post was unintentionally directing to an Alaska Airlines pre‑order page. We’re working to correct that now.

Two days later, however, there’s no sign on Hawaiian’s own food page of what complimentary meals in economy still exist. The page only refers to business class meals.

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A reader says what BOH has been reporting.

One longtime BOH reader put it in harsher terms than we would have chosen. The loss did not begin on one date. It came through smaller moves, thinner service, and a pricing model that kept asking the question of whether the old Hawaiian Air experience could survive as a standalone airline model.

“I am having trouble understanding why people are mourning the loss of Hawaiian Airlines. It died years ago making incremental changes to their image and service. Flying Hawaiian airlines in their heyday was a special experience. But, like many other things in life right now, there’s little left of what we once knew.”

The old Hawaiian experience had been fading long before Alaska took control, even while many travelers still hoped the brand, the food, the service style, and the Hawaii-specific aspects they still remember fondly would remain intact. Alaska did not create the problems Hawaii travelers are feeling, but the acquisition is forcing the pricing and service reset into public view in a big way. The $35 pet fee moving to $100 is just another example.

The longhaul issues also come into focus.

One reader just described a much 10,000 mile trip on Hawaiian this week, where the food issue became harder to understand because of the route length and total travel time.

“I just got off a 9hr flight from Sydney Australia. We had a light meal on that flight…. a 3hr stop over and now am on a 9-10hr flight to JFK and now I have to purchase food and drinks. Absolutely pathetic for such a long flight.”

The undoubtedly soon to be resolved pattern has three points: an interisland fee increase, a premier-class meal gap, and a long-haul food complaint. Travelers are bringing old Hawaiian expectations into a new system where fees, meals, and what’s included are being reset.

We’ve experienced this ourselves in countless mileage upgrades from economy to business/first class on Hawaiian flights. These were offered at pricing too low to be sustainable, and compared with the rest of the industry. Those cheap mileage upgrades are now gone.

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That kind of value built loyalty. But it also created an obvious question for any acquiring airline. Cheap fees, too generous upgrades, included meals, and other unique offerings helped Hawaiian feel different. They also left Hawaiian in terrible financial straits. And they leave Alaska with plenty of places where the larger airline can raise, remove, or reprice things.

Why the old Hawaiian couldn’t last.

For longtime Hawaiian travelers, this part is still uncomfortable. Many of the things people loved were real, but they were priced in a way that was hard to defend commercially once Hawaiian was no longer standing by itself. A bigger carrier absorbs a smaller one and necessarily looks for alignment. The cheaper system moves toward the more expensive one, and not the other way around.

Hawaiian’s “Aloha discount” is what the merger ended. The brand still appears, the Pualani paint job remains, and the word Hawaiian still carries deep meaning for many travelers. But the pricing system underneath is changing. That is how the pet fee increase connects to the meal complaints, the upgrade math, and more.

Hawaiian’s standalone pricing was not sustainable, and that reality is part of what made the acquisition necessary. Travelers can be angry about the loss and still see why the old setup wasn’t going to survive once a larger airline took over.

What to expect.

Don’t assume legacy Hawaiian terms still apply just because the flight is to, from, or within Hawaii. Check at booking, especially pets, bags, seats, food, and upgrade options. Check again too before departure, because readers are already finding gaps between what they expected, what they saw online, and what they report happened onboard.

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For meals on mainland and long-haul flights, don’t rely on memory from past Hawaiian trips. Look closely at what is included, what must be pre-ordered, and what may now be sold onboard. If the site and the airline say one thing and the cabin delivers another, that’s the gap readers are now reporting.

Have you booked a Hawaii flight, interisland or mainland, since the merger took hold? What did you expect based on past Hawaiian service, and what did you actually get?

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