Hawaii’s Kilauea, one of the world’s most active volcanoes, began erupting Monday in a remote area of Volcano National Park that had not seen volcanic activity in half a century.
Who said what
A major Kilauea eruption in 2018 destroyed hundreds of homes, but the volcano has since “gone away from a period of steady eruptions,” USGS geophysicist Michael Poland told The New York Times. These days it has “discrete, usually shortish eruptions happening in several different places.” The last eruption in the region of Monday’s event was in late 1974, and it “lasted only about 6 hours,” Hawaii County Civil Defense Agency officials said to the Honolulu Star-Advertiser.
“People just need to realize this is in one of the safest places it could have happened,” Big Island Mayor Mitch Roth said. “Absolutely no property in danger.”
What next?
The USGS said the eruption, about a mile south of the Kilauea caldera, paused about 12 hours after it began, but “activity in this region remains dynamic and could change quickly.”
Advertisement
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
SUBSCRIBE & SAVE
Sign up for The Week’s Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
To continue reading this article…
Advertisement
Create a free account
Continue reading this article and get limited website access each month.
Already have an account? Sign in
Advertisement
Subscribe to The Week
Get unlimited website access, exclusive newsletters plus much more.
Advertisement
Cancel or pause at any time.
Advertisement
Already a subscriber to The Week?
Unlimited website access is included with Digital and Print + Digital subscriptions. Create an accountwith the same email registered to your subscription to unlock access.
Two years after the Hawaii Supreme Court ruled that the access road to the Maunakea summit had been illegally seized and designated as state property in 2018 by the Hawaii Department of Transportation, plans to manage it going forward are under discussion.
The Department of Hawaiian Home Lands — which the court determined is the rightful manager of the land on which a four-mile stretch of the road is located — has received several proposals for projects on the road and surrounding area.
The ideas include installation of a toll booth and charging for access to the summit, construction of a gift shop and cultural center, operation of educational tours, and environmental restoration efforts, among others.
At a meeting Thursday, the Maunakea Stewardship and Oversight Authority — the new state agency tasked with taking over management of the summit region from the University of Hawaii — discussed partnering with DHHL and other groups to help determine the best path forward.
Advertisement
“Early indications are that there will be a working group comprised of the authority, (the Center for Maunakea Stewardship, the Department of Land and Natural Resources), DHHL and other immediate stakeholders who can look at what the potential would be on a holistic comprehensive basis,” MKSOA Executive Director John De Fries said. “And in the meantime, DHHL is obligated to continue in the process of reviewing the proposals that they have received.”
DHHL planning office staff members presented two proposals and preliminary feedback at a meeting of the Hawaiian Homes Commission meeting last month.
Both proposals come from DHHL beneficiaries in the form of land-use requests under DHHL’s Aina Mauna Legacy Program, which was developed to oversee the trust’s lands surrounding Maunakea.
One of the proposals was submitted by the Waimea Hawaiian Homesteaders Association, also known as Waimea Nui. The group’s proposal includes building a cultural center, having trained cultural stewards on site and community and youth development opportunities. It would be funded in part by an access fee, but the presentation did not include cost or revenue estimates.
The other proposal is from Koa Kia‘i, a Native Hawaiian group led by Kalaniakea Wilson, a local tour company operator. It suggests installing a toll booth, parking lot, bathrooms, gift shop, playground, workout area and food truck along the access road, as well as operating astronomy, cultural and environmental tours. The proposal also includes cultural monitoring and ecological restoration measures.
Advertisement
The applicants estimate a cost of $1.5 million to implement the proposal, and a revenue of $1.75 million from the toll and parking fees in the first year of operation.
A survey of DHHL beneficiaries suggested preference for the Waimea Nui plan, but respondents also expressed desire for the two organizations to find a way to work together.
While it will ultimately be up to DHHL to make a decision, MKSOA Board Chair John Komeiji said the authority could serve in an advisory capacity and help align the proposals with broader management plans for the mauna.
“They have to make the decision. There are two beneficiary groups that are making the proposals, so they are … duty-bound to consider both proposals,” he said during Thursday’s board meeting. “But I think our job is to figure out, give them an overall holistic view of what is occurring now, how that might interface with whatever proposal.”
De Fries said he had invited a DHHL planning office staff member to join MKSOA’s Joint Management Committee meeting this week to further discuss the project and potential working group.
Advertisement
Email Grace Inez Adams at grace.adams@hawaiitribune-herald.com.
Hawaii’s most welcoming countryside towns are rarely the ones that appear on the standard itineraries. Kaunakakai on Moloka’i has no traffic lights and the longest pier in the state. Maunaloa sits above one of Hawaii’s largest white-sand beaches. Naalehu’s most famous landmark is a tree that Mark Twain allegedly planted in 1866. These eight towns, spread across six islands, each have something specific that makes them worth the detour.
Hale’iwa
Hale’iwa, Hawaii. Image credit: Christian Mueller via Shutterstock.
Next, let’s explore the town of Hale’iwa, a globally renowned destination that draws surfers every year for its winter waves. The town is also renowned for its laid-back charm, local food trucks, and shaved ice. For a day out on the water, try your hand at snorkeling at Shark’s Cove. The cove is a popular destination for snorkeling and scuba diving, surrounded by lava rocks and coral formations, and is bursting with marine wildlife. However, if you are concerned about sharks, then there is no need to worry, as the cove’s name comes from its shark-like shape if you are looking at it from a bird’s-eye view. You can also rent a paddleboard or kayak and travel up the Anahulu River and go under the iconic Hale’iwa Rainbow Bridge. You can also spot green sea turtles basking in the sun on your journey upstream. To satisfy your sweet tooth, you can grab a scoop of flavored ice at Matsumoto Shave Ice, a family-owned dessert spot where its shaved ice is the main attraction. Patrons can choose from a variety of flavors for their shaved ice, like passion fruit, guava, and mango, and top it off with either mochi balls or condensed milk.
Kaunakakai
Downtown Kaunakakai. Image credit: Sanba38, CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons.
On the island of Moloka’i, the town of Kaunakakai is famous for its laid-back nature and the charm of “Old Hawaii”. What does “Old Hawaii” mean? It means that there are few traffic lights and no major chain stores. There are, however, some interesting things to see and do in town, including Kaunakakai Harbor, home to the longest pier in Hawaii. It stretches 1,900 feet into the Pacific Ocean and is a popular destination for fishing, sunset watching, and launching boat tours. A legendary spot to visit in Kaunakakai is Kanemitsu’s Bakery. The bakery is known for its “Hot Bread,” which comes in slices filled with any filling you choose, like cream cheese, strawberries, blueberries, or cinnamon. The bakery also serves fresh papaya bread, cheese bread, donuts, and all of the classic pastries that you would find at any bakery. For some retail fun, visit Ala Mālama Avenue. Instead of major chain stores, the avenue is lined from top to bottom with local mom-and-pop stores and boutiques, and it is a hot spot for everyday services. The items the shops offer may make for some interesting souvenirs to take home.
Makawao
The town of Makawao sits on the slope of the Haleakala volcano in Maui.
One interesting fact about Makawao is that it was known as the heart of paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) country. That’s right. A long time ago, paniolos inhabited Makawao and made it their home. One way to learn more about them is to attend the town’s annual Makawao Rodeo, which takes place on the weekend of Independence Day. Thousands of spectators flock to the Oskie Rice Arena for bull riding, barrel racing, roping events, and all sorts of other traditional rodeo events. The event also hosts block parties, local food vendors, and live country-western entertainment. For a truly colorful and unique souvenir, visit Hot Island Glass. The shop is a working glassblowing studio where you can watch artists create incredible glass masterpieces, including platters, vases, and island-inspired sculptures such as pineapples and jellyfish. A quick and easy hike to take in Makawao is the Waihou Springs Trail. During the trek, you will be guided through the lush greenery of the forest before being taken to Waihou Spring, where the water drips from a towering fern wall and into the crystal waters. There are also small lava tubes and old irrigation tunnels carved into the volcanic rock to explore on your walk.
Lānaʻi City
Horseback riding at Lānaʻi City, Hawaii.
As the only major city on the island of Lānaʻi, you can rest assured that there are a lot of things to do in Lānaʻi City upon your arrival. The town is best known for its rich pineapple plantation history, and one way to learn more is to visit Dole Park at the heart of the city. The plantation is the central hub of community events like the annual Pineapple Festival, the Saturday Market, and its “Fifth Friday”, where the community comes alive with free live entertainment and over twenty-five vendors from local restaurants and shops for one of the biggest block parties the citizens have ever seen. If you are an enthusiast of horses or equestrians, then come to the Stables at Koele. At the stables, you will gaze upon the sweeping landscapes via horseback while learning about the ranching history of Lānaʻi and the lifestyle of the paniolo (Hawaiian cowboys) along the way. After a long day of exploring Dole Park and gazing at landscapes via horseback, fill up on pizza, burgers, teriyaki beef, or chicken katsu when you dine at Lanai Bowl. This 1950s-inspired retro diner is also home to an arcade, a soda fountain, a jukebox, and a four-lane bowling alley, where you can not only indulge in Hawaiian and American cuisine, but also have an amazing time while waiting for your food to be served.
Hanapepe
Downtown street of Hanapepe.
Serving as inspiration for the setting of the 2002 animated feature film Lilo and Stitch, Hanapepe, meaning “crushed bay” in Hawaiian, is renowned for its vibrant art community and deep cultural roots. Speaking of cultural roots, one way to explore Hanapepe’s cultural background is to take a stroll across the Swinging Bridge. The bridge is a 186-foot-long wooden suspension bridge spanning the Hanapepe River. It was built in 1911 to help plantation workers and children cross the water. Since then, it has remained a landmark within the town, offering patrons a fun, bouncy walk across the river. For a tranquil day on the beach, come to Salt Pond Beach Park, a popular, family-friendly beach park that got its name from the town’s traditional Hawaiian salt ponds. At the beach, you can spend the day swimming, snorkeling, camping, and firing up the barbecue on the beach’s own barbecue grills for a picnic lunch. At the Midnight Bear Bakery, you can indulge in organic sourdough loaves, flaky European-style pastries, and the freshest coffee in town. The perfect place to enjoy breakfast or lunch before heading off on your next adventure.
Hāwī
Shops of Hawi, Hawaii. Image credit: Bob Linsdell, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
In Hāwī, you will be treated to lush tropical scenery, historic Hawaiian culture, and a laid-back, artsy vibe. To explore the lush tropical scenery of Hāwī, book a horseback riding tour with Paniolo Adventures, an open-range horseback riding experience that gives patrons a chance to become paniolos (Hawaiian cowboys) as they explore the sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean, grazing cattle, and surrounding volcanoes that call Hawaii their home. To satisfy your sweet tooth, you can pay a visit to the Our Founding Farmers Ice Cream Shop. The ice cream shop is a highly rated, farm-to-scoop parlor that specializes in small-batch, handmade ice creams and sorbets that are made with locally sourced Hawaiian ingredients like papaya, dragonfruit, and lychee, organic sugar, and fresh dairy. Every Saturday morning, Hāwī comes alive with the Hāwī Farmers Market. At the market, you will find fresh local produce, handmade artisanal crafts, and prepared, hot meals. All of which are operated under the relaxed, welcoming atmosphere of the rural setting around it.
Maunaloa
Maunaloa, Molokai, Hawaii.
At Maunaloa, you can expect to find a town full of laid-back country charm and glorious ocean views. If there was one place to visit in Maunaloa, it is the extremely quirky, world-famous Big Wind Kite Factory. The kite factory is a family-run shop that produces vibrant nylon kites and windsocks for you to purchase and fly across the sky. The shop even offers free kite-making lessons so you can learn how these beautiful, colorful kites are brought to life. Whenever you need essentials during your visit to Maunaloa, take a trip to the Maunaloa General Store, where you will find all of the snacks and groceries you need before heading off on your next Hawaiian adventure. The store also sells cold drinks, local grab-and-go items, and a wide selection of beer and wine. Just a short drive down the hill lies Pāpōhaku Beach, one of the largest white-sand beaches in the state, best known for its isolation and its lower crowd levels compared to other beaches. It also has superb views of Oʻahu, so you can look over the beautiful views as you take scenic walks along the powdery sand, enjoy a picnic lunch, and even camp out overnight at one of their designated campsites.
Naalehu
Tourists and local fishermen in Naalehu, Hawaii. Image credit: Ty King via Shutterstock.
What was formerly a sugar plantation is now the beautiful town of Naalehu, Hawaii, where you will now find unique, exotic beaches and iconic island landmarks such as Haleokane Lookout. At the lookout, you will overlook panoramic views of Honuapo Bay, rugged sea cliffs, and the sparkling Pacific Ocean below. During the winter months, if you are lucky, you will be able to catch humpback whales frolicking in the ocean waves. At the Punalu’u Bake Shop, you will be able to indulge in their traditional Hawaiian sweet bread and their sugar-coated malasadas (Portuguese fried donuts). Aside from being a bakery, it is also a roadside attraction and visitor center where patrons can come in and sample their delicious goodies while sitting in the lush outdoor patio and garden area. One historic landmark in Naalehu is the Mark Twain Monkey Pod Tree, which, according to legend, is the very tree that author Mark Twain planted in 1866 as a gesture of appreciation for the island’s natural beauty during his visit. It is also known for its enormous, umbrella-shaped canopy, with a diameter of 100 feet, making it the perfect place to catch some shade from the Hawaiian heat.
Visiting Hawaii’s countryside offers an escape from the bustling resort hubs. In the countryside of Hawaii, you will be able to see untouched natural landmarks and ecosystems, immerse yourself in the deep-rooted cultural history, and find local island gems that will have you talking about for years to come. While the bigger cities of Hawaii sound like fun, if you immerse yourself in a slower pace of life, you might find yourself having an even grander time in the Hawaiian countryside.
I live in New York City. My 30-year-old son, Alec, lives across the country in Southern California. When I visit, I respect that he has his own busy, adult life. While I’d like nothing more than to spend every minute with him, I’m proud of his independence and try not to monopolize his time.
Alec has a roommate and no space for an overnight guest. When I’m on his home turf, I stay in a hotel or with a friend.
When he comes to NYC for the holidays, his schedule is packed. Plus, with the entire family under one roof, it can be tough to carve out one-on-one time.
I don’t feel shut out of Alec’s life, but I do miss spending quality time with him, so I floated the idea of a mother-son vacation.
Advertisement
He set a few ground rules before we started planning
Alec was vocal that for our getaway to work, we’d need to approach it as equals. This may sound deceptively simple, butit took lots of self-control on my part.
Little kids and I pair like milk and cookies. I did my graduate studies in early childhood education and taught preschool for years. Parenting young kids is never easy, but it felt instinctive. It grew harder as my children grew older.
Alec is my firstborn, and my parental grip was tightest around him. When he was a teenager, he told me I didn’t understand that teens needed autonomy. At the time, he was correct, but over the years, I’ve worked hard to pacify my bossy instincts.
Every time Allison publishes a story, you’ll get an alert straight to your inbox!
Advertisement
Stay connected to Allison and get more of their work as it publishes.
Advertisement
This time, I would welcome his voice in planning our vacation.
Alec brought up another rule: that part of being equal should include sharing expenses. I gifted Alec his airline ticket using miles, and we split additional expenses.
Choosing a destination
Alec had four days off work over Memorial Day Weekend. I advocated for a location that wasn’t too hot, as I had suffered a bout of heatstroke in Greece last summer. A yoga class nearby would be a bonus.
Alec made a case for Hawaii. He’d never been, but its laidback reputation appealed to him. He said he wanted to destress at a resort and eat poke every day.
Hawaii is special to me. I first visited when I was a kid, spending a summer at my aunt and uncle’s home in Waianae on Oahu. The idea of sharing Hawaii with Alec was exciting.
Advertisement
From a practical point of view, Hawaii made sense. There are numerous nonstop flights from LAX, Alec’s home airport. I was going to be in Denver for work, so I was already heading in a westerly direction.
The author loved spending time with her adult son.
Courtesy of Allison Tibaldi
Each of the Hawaiian Islands has its own flavor. We had lots of options and weren’t quite sure how to narrow them down.
Alec is a fan of the television cooking show “Top Chef.” During his online research, he learned that former contestant Sheldon Simeon was scheduled to be the visiting chef at the Ritz-Carlton O’ahu, Turtle Bay on the island’s North Shore on the Saturday night of our trip.
Advertisement
The Hawaiian-born chef would be preparing a multi-course dinner using island-grown ingredients. I’m all about exploring local culture through food, so it seemed like a jackpot for both of us.
After we booked the dinner, we figured it made sense to stay at the Ritz-Carlton.
Balancing time together and separately was key
Another boundary we set for our vacation was balancing time together with time apart.
Each morning, Alec surfed, and I swam laps in the pool. I signed up for a lei-making workshop while he attended a tennis clinic.
In a perfect world, we would have reserved individual rooms; however, we shared a room for economic reasons.
Advertisement
We were still able to maintain boundaries and give each other privacy as our room had a comfortable ocean-view patio, perfect for reading and relaxing.
Meaningful conversations are what stand out
Time together sparked the meaningful conversations and connection I had longed for.
On May 24, I mentioned that it was my beloved dad’s heavenly birthday. Alec shared tender memories of his grandpa and told me that my dad had been a father figure for him, too, teaching him lessons that continue to impact his life. It made me teary.
We also had an intelligent discussion on income inequality. Alec overheard a group of vacationing doctors and a group of vacationing teachers chatting in the Jacuzzi. He said the doctors worked very long hours without complaint, while the teachers complained nonstop about their overwhelming workload. This led to a conversation between Alec and me about teachers being underpaid and undervalued.
As a former teacher, I found that my son’s thinking about socio-economic issues that hit so close to home really resonated with me.
Advertisement
Our mother-son vacation brought us closer
Our mother-son vacation was a success. Alec ate plenty of poke. I got to practice yoga. Together, we swam in the Pacific, walked trails surrounded by gardenias, and enjoyed a delectable Hawaiian dinner.
As much as I loved our activities, it’s the memories of our personal and poignant conversations that are etched in my heart.