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I've Visited All 63 U.S. National Parks — and This 8.4-million Oasis Is the Most Peaceful

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I've Visited All 63 U.S. National Parks — and This 8.4-million Oasis Is the Most Peaceful


“What number is this for you?” a man asked the couple waiting in the cramped office, his casual tone laced with curiosity.

“56,” the woman replied, her voice steady, confident.

“And you?”

“We’re at 59,” the man said with a nod as if passing an unspoken baton.

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They didn’t turn to me or the other solo traveler pacing near the doorway. They didn’t need to. We all understood the language. These numbers weren’t random; they were a measure of something bigger — a quiet badge of honor among national park chasers.

To most people, 56, 59, or even 63 wouldn’t mean a thing. But for those of us who’ve fallen in love with the challenge of visiting all the U.S. national parks, those numbers carry weight. They signify journeys taken, mountains climbed, and deserts crossed.

I glanced at the floor, trying to keep my excitement at bay. I was here to visit the last park on my list — all solo — and hit the magic number: 63.

A float plane flying over Circle Lake and Brooks Range mountains.

Patrick J. Endres/Getty Images

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There are more than 400 National Park Service sites in the U.S., but just 63 carry the title “national park.” They range from the Great Smoky Mountains — the most-visited park, which drew more than 13 million people in 2023 — to the stark solitude of Gates of the Arctic — the least-frequented on the list, with just 11,045 visitors in the same period.

It’s easy to see why Gates of the Arctic holds that distinction. Covering more than 8.4 million acres, all entirely above the Arctic Circle, there are no roads or trails — nothing to guide you but your determination. This park is not a place travelers stumble upon; it’s a place they must seek out.

While many visitors reach Gates of the Arctic through Fairbanks or Bettles — both short flights from Anchorage — I started my adventure in Kotzebue, a coastal town north of the Arctic Circle and another gateway to Alaska’s remote northern parks. After landing on a commercial flight from Anchorage, I walked the short distance to a short-term rental and awaited word from Golden Eagle Outfitters, the flight-seeing and air-taxi service that would take me into the Brooks Range.

Weather delays are common here, so there are no set flight times. There’s just a range of dates the outfitters recommend being in town, and they ask that you periodically check in until the weather is favorable. I spent the first day exploring the quiet streets of Kotzebue and learning about traditional Iñupiaq culture at the Northwest Arctic Heritage Center. Finally, the text came: The skies had cleared. It was time to go.

Confluence of Easter Creek and Killik River and the Brooks Range mountains in Gates of the Arctic National Park.
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Patrick J. Endres/Getty Images


At the hangar, I joined five other travelers and our pilot for the flight into the wilderness. Bush planes are the lifeline of the Arctic, and as we took off, I couldn’t help but marvel as the landscape beneath us appeared like a living map — clear, bright blue rivers snaking through valleys, jagged peaks surrounding us, and tundra showing the vibrant first hues of autumn.

When the plane touched down on a gravel bar near the Ambler River — one of six designated wild rivers in the park — the silence was almost overwhelming: just the faint sound of water beside me and the crunch of rocks under my hiking boots.

I was here for a day trip, an experience that cost $1,750 — a steep price, but one that was worth every penny as I stepped into a world so untouched, it felt sacred. For those with the time and resources, multiday guided trips offer deeper exploration through hiking, rafting, fishing, and backpacking.

I walked along the river. The water was so clear and blue that I could see every pebble on the riverbed, and I couldn’t help but cry. Thinking of the journey that brought me here — the 63rd national park I’d visited solo — I felt at peace.

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Gates of the Arctic isn’t just a place on a park checklist; it’s a reminder of how fragile and rare untouched wilderness is. The journey here stripped away modern life’s noise, distractions, and conveniences, leaving me with nothing but the raw beauty of the wild — and myself.

I didn’t just reach my final park goal in the stillness of Gates of the Arctic; I found a version of myself I hadn’t seen in a long time.

Where to Stay

There are no designated campsites or lodging within the park. Still, backcountry camping and backpacking are options for very experienced travelers or those on a trip with a guided outfitter.

On a day trip, most visitors will fly into the park from the gateway cities. Fairbanks is the largest and offers the most options, but it is also further from the park. Travelers can also find hotels, wilderness lodges, and bed-and-breakfasts in Coldfoot, Bettles, and Kotzebue.

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Mountain reflections of Xanadu, Arial and Caliban peaks in Arrigetch Creek.

Patrick J. Endres/Getty Images


How to Get There

There are no roads or trails into the park, but visitors can fly on chartered bush planes from multiple gateways, the most popular being from Fairbanks, Bettles, Coldfoot, or Kotzebue. Very experienced and prepared travelers can also opt to hike five miles from the gravel Dalton Highway to the park near Coldfoot.

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Best Time to Visit

Most travelers will want to visit between July and mid-August, when days are long, the snow has melted, and temperatures are warmer. Mid-August to mid-September will bring fall colors, cooler temperatures, and more flight availability.



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Alaska Air National Guard rescues injured snowmachiner near Cooper Landing

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Alaska Air National Guard rescues injured snowmachiner near Cooper Landing


 

An Alaska Air National Guard HH-60W Jolly Green II helicopter, assigned to the 210th Rescue Squadron, 176th Wing, returns to Joint Base Elmendorf-Richardson, Alaska, after conducting a rescue mission for an injured snowmachiner, Feb. 21, 2026. The mission marked the first time the AKANG used the HH-60W for a rescue. (U.S. Air National Guard photo by Staff Sgt. Joseph Moon)

Alaska Air National Guard personnel conducted a rescue mission Saturday, Feb. 21, after receiving a request for assistance from the Alaska State Troopers through the Alaska Rescue Coordination Center.

The mission was initiated to recover an injured snowmachiner in the Cooper Landing area, approximately 60 air miles south of Joint Base Elmendorf-Richardson. The Alaska Air National Guard accepted the mission, located the individual, and transported them to Providence Alaska Medical Center in Anchorage for further medical care.

The mission marked the first search and rescue operation conducted by the 210th Rescue Squadron using the HH-60W Jolly Green II, the Air Force’s newest combat rescue helicopter, which is replacing the older HH-60G Pave Hawk. Guardian Angels assigned to the 212th Rescue Squadron were also aboard the aircraft and assisted in the recovery of the injured individual.

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Good Samaritans, who were on the ground at the accident site, deployed a signal flare, that helped the helicopter crew visually locate the injured individual in the heavily wooded area.
Due to the mountainous terrain, dense tree cover, and deep snow in the area, the helicopter was unable to land near the patient. The aircrew conducted a hoist insertion and extraction of the Guardian Angels and the injured snowmachiner. The patient was extracted using a rescue strop and hoisted into the aircraft.

The Alaska Air National Guard routinely conducts search and rescue operations across the state in support of civil authorities, providing life-saving assistance in some of the most remote and challenging environments in the world.



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Alaska House advances bill to boost free legal aid for vulnerable Alaskans

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Alaska House advances bill to boost free legal aid for vulnerable Alaskans





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Marten visits are a glimpse into mystery

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Marten visits are a glimpse into mystery


A trapper fresh out of the Cosna River country in Interior Alaska said he can’t believe how many martens he had caught in a small area so far this winter.

Friends are talking about the house-cat size creatures visiting their wood piles and porches. Could this be a boom in the number of these handsome woodland creatures?

Since the late 1970s, the University of Alaska Fairbanks’ Geophysical Institute has provided this column free in cooperation with the UAF research community. Ned Rozell is a science writer for the Geophysical Institute. Portions of this story appeared in 2000.



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