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Alaska at its best — part one – East Idaho News

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Alaska at its best — part one – East Idaho News


JUNEAU – A week ago Tuesday, my wife, four daughters and nine other family members (including myself) embarked on a trip of a lifetime – a cruise from Seattle to southern Alaska and back. The Carnival Spirit ship was enjoyable, but the excursions made the trip unbelievable and unreal for me, creating sights and sounds of a lifetime.

We had only scheduled two excursions but on our third day at sea, my wife approached me and said, “An excursion this afternoon has three openings, and many of the comments from previous guests says that their only regret was not doing the Tracy Arm Fjord one: how about doing it? Jesse (our son-in-law) has already booked it, so let’s go.”

A little tired of the big boat, I agreed.

After separating from the mothership, we headed up the fjord, flushing several strange birds off the water. Their mostly black with white wing patches and bright orange feet told me that they were pigeon guillemots.

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Soon the captain announced a bear ahead. It moved off into the brush before we got there. Water from melting snowfields was cascading off the steep sides, but the falling water was did not create “waterfalls” until we arrived at a huge, true waterfall — the only one in the fjord.

Ice Falls, originating from Ice Lake, was beautiful, but I was ready to see some living creature when the woman behind me yelled, “Bear!” The caption slowed up, turned the boat around and we slowly headed back. Sure enough, there was a small black bear digging up mussels where the low tide had exposed a large table of things bears like to eat.

A Black bear munches on mussels and other food exposed by the low tide in Tracy Arm Fjord. | Courtesy Bill Schiess

After allowing everyone a chance to photograph the bear we continued up the fjord with large hunks of ice floating by us. Some of the icebergs were a bright blue while others were painted by “rock dust” that the South Sawyer Glacier had ground off the steep sides hundreds of years ago. The naturalist with us explained to us that the blue ice was created by over 100 inches of snow compressed together to create an inch of glacial ice.

Icebergs in the Tracy Arm Fjord gets its blue color from compressed snow which fell over 150 years ago. | Courtesy Bill Schiess
Icebergs in the Tracy Arm Fjord gets its blue color from compressed snow which fell over 150 years ago. | Courtesy Bill Schiess

It was not too long before we could see the top of the glacier, and we began to move slowly enough to push some of the smaller chunks of ice out of the way or to maneuver around the larger icebergs. The naturalist explained that 90 percent of the icebergs were under the water and explained that the color of the water that changed so quickly was created by the melting ice containing the rock dust.

Hundreds of harbor seals were relaxing on some of the floating ice while a bald eagle perched on the top of a large iceberg. Arctic terns flew back and forth over their nesting area on a large rock near a beautiful granite cliff.

Harbor seals enjoy sunning themselves on the ice broken off from the South Sawyer Glacier. | Courtesy Bill Schiess
Harbor seals enjoy sunning themselves on the ice broken off from the South Sawyer Glacier. | Courtesy Bill Schiess

We also watched as large chunks of 150-year-old blue ice split from the glacier, sending significant waves down to us. There were two other boats there with us playing a tag game with the ice, and after about an hour, we started working away from the glacier.

Large chunks of ice break off the South Sawyer Glacier as several boats watch it. | Courtesy Bill Schiess
Large chunks of ice break off the South Sawyer Glacier as several boats watch it. | Courtesy Bill Schiess

As we rounded a corner, we saw the Carnival Spirit working its way up through the ice. I had been visiting with the excursion captain, and when he saw the ship he exclaimed, “What the heck is he doing!!!! Ships never come up this close to the glacier!”

We moved passed the Carnival Spirit as all the passengers got a view of the glacier while the ship moved very, very slowly navigating through the floating ice. But we could not hook up with the Spirit until we got enough room so that chunks of ice would not get caught between the two boats.

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 The Carnival Spirit approaches the South Sawyer Glacier close enough for all its passengers to view it. | Courtesy Bill Schiess
The Carnival Spirit approaches the South Sawyer Glacier close enough for all its passengers to view it. | Courtesy Bill Schiess

We found out later that the captain of the Spirit was a new captain, this was his first trip up into the Tracy Arm Fjord and he wanted to see the glacier. We also noticed while out in the open sea, when a pod of whales was located, the captain “kind of” turned in that direction to give the passengers a better view of them.

My wife and I were both happy that the rest of our family was able to enjoy the trip up to see the magnificent South Sawyer Glacier. She and I enjoyed the time that we spent up there watching the wildlife and the movement of the glacier. It was well worth the extra time and funds that we paid.

My recommendation to any of you who have not been on an Alaskan cruise or not taken advantage of excursions on a cruise is to do them. As beautiful and enjoyable as the trip up the Tracy Arm Fjord was, it was not my favorite – that story is for next week.

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Alaska

Dunleavy, EPA visit UAF to discuss regulations in the arctic environment

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Dunleavy, EPA visit UAF to discuss regulations in the arctic environment


Fairbanks, Alaska (KTUU/KTVF) – On Wednesday, Gov. Mike Dunleavy, Alaska Attorney General Stephen Cox and Lee Zeldin, the administrator for the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), spoke to press at the University of Alaska Fairbanks power plant.

During their time at the university, the federal and state leaders spoke about developing resources such as coal, oil, gas and critical minerals in the 49th state.

During his 24-hour trip to Fairbanks, Zeldin said he has spoke to business and state leaders about environmental regulations impacting operations in Alaska, saying the EPA needs to consider whether regulations are solving problems or are solutions in search of a problem.

He also discussed the concept of “cooperative federalism,” where the EPA takes its cues from state leaders to determine where regulations and help are needed.

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“We’re here at the University of Alaska’s coal plant, and the most modern coal plant in the United States of America,” Dunleavy said.

Zeldin said visiting Fairbanks in winter helps inform decisions the agency is considering.

“There are a lot of decisions right now in front of this agency that the first-hand perspective of being here on the ground helps inform our agency to make the right decision,” he said.

Zeldin also said the agency is hearing concerns from Alaska truckers about diesel exhaust rules in extreme cold.

“We then met with truckers who have been dealing with unique cold weather concerns with the implementation of EPA regulations related to diesel exhaust fluid system,” he said.

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When asked about PFAS in drinking water, Zeldin said the EPA is not rolling back the standards.

“So the PFAS standards are not being rolled back at all,” he said.

On Fairbanks air quality and PM2.5 regulations, Zeldin said the agency wants to work with the state.

“We want, at the EPA, to help the Fairbanks community be able to be in attainment on PM 2.5. We want to make it work,” he said.

Dunleavy said energy costs and heating needs remain a major factor in Interior air quality discussions.

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“People have to be able to live. They’ve got to be able to afford to live,” he said.

Zeldin said EPA is considering further changes to diesel regulations and urged Alaskans to participate in the rulemaking process.

“We need Alaskans to participate in that public comment period,” he said.

See a spelling or grammar error? Report it to web@ktuu.com

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Opinion: Life lessons learned from mushing and old-time Alaska

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Opinion: Life lessons learned from mushing and old-time Alaska


A steel arch commemorating sled dog racing was installed over Fourth Avenue in downtown Anchorage in November 2025. (Marc Lester / ADN)

This is the beginning of the Iditarod spring, signaled by the burst of sun and what used to be the long wait for dog teams to pass under the arch in Nome, the finish line a thousand miles away from Anchorage. For old-timers, it’s the story of the way Alaska used to be. What once was a 30-day wait has become about 10 days for winners to celebrate and the rest of us to shout, “Well done.”

My story is about family that welcomed immigrants from all over the world to be among the last groups of Indigenous people in the country, a life of taking good care of dog teams, and of parents who taught their children how to live in a wild, rugged frontier.

I came to be in a different age, a time of dog teams that ruled the trails to mining camps and where the salmon ran strongest — before the introduction of the snowmachine that revolutionized rural and Native Alaska.

For the Blatchford family, it is a recognition that some things will always stay the same and everything else changes. All four of my grandparents were noncitizens. My mother Lena’s parents of Elim were Alaska Natives, as was my dad Ernie’s mother, Mae, of Shishmaref. The name Blatchford comes from his father, the Englishman who was born in Cornwall and arrived in Nome during the gold rush. His brother, William, was one of the early immigrants, and by 1899 there was a creek just outside Nome named after him. He discovered gold. My grandfather, Percy, found gold, too, but it was a different kind of wealth, a finding that he had found home and never left.

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I was born in Nome, delivered by an Iñupiaq Eskimo midwife in a one-room cabin where the frozen Bering Sea met the treeless tundra’s permafrost. Dad had a dog team. I like to think that the dogs were anxious for me to be born because it was hunting time for Dad to hitch them up and mush out to where the sea mammals, snowshoe hares, ptarmigan and other game thrived in the winter. My earliest memories are of dogs; all of them working as a team to bring home the game so we could have a fine meal cooked by Lena. In the Arctic, dogs were essential for family survival. If you didn’t hunt, you didn’t eat.

There are several memories that remain strong. I suppose I can call them lessons of the Arctic.

The first is to take care of the dogs and treat them well. Dog lovers all over the world know very well that a dog, whatever the breed, is loyal and will die to protect the one who feeds and pets it. If you don’t feed a husky, it won’t pull, and it could mean a long time before the family eats. When a dog team is hungry, it will race back home to be fed a healthy meal. Mother Lena must have been a great cook because Dad said the dog team always raced back to the edge of Nome, where Lena was waiting beside the propane stove. For Mike, Tom and me, our job was to take the rifle, shotgun and .22 into the cabin to be cleaned and oiled. Once that was quickly done, we unhitched the dogs and then fed the team.

All three of us boys had special responsibilities to Tim, Buttons and Girlie. Tim, the lead dog, was brother Mike’s pet; Tom had Buttons, and I had Girlie. We made sure they were healthy and well cared for. Dad would often comment that “Papa,” our grandfather Percy, the Englishman, took good care of his dog teams, being kind to the dogs and feeding them. Dad was the oldest of a large family that lived in Teller and later Nome.

“Papa” Percy was a prospector, fox farmer and a contestant in the All-Alaska Sweepstakes, the dog team race from Nome to the mining camp of Candle, a 400-mile race. He didn’t win, but he finished well, very well. The stories of the Sweepstakes have remained with the family for over a century. At a memorial service in Palmer for “Doc” Blatchford, Aunt Marge, without a question or a prompt, said that Papa took good care of his dogs.

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Percy Blatchford was a legend in the Alaska Territory. As a teacher of Alaska newspapers, I would find headlines similar to one in the Fairbanks Daily News-Miner that blazed on the front page: “Blatchford Wins Solomon Derby.” There was even a story in The New York Times.

There’s probably no other sport in Alaska that brought Alaskans together like dog mushing. When old-timers would visit over strong coffee, dogs and dog team racing would come up. In the territory, there were few high schools and fewer gymnasiums, so the only team sport was dog mushing. It was something to talk about that was unique to Alaskans.

I used to travel in rural Alaska quite a bit. In the smaller communities, I would see the teams and would wonder how long they would power the engines that brought the mail and the foodstuffs down and up the trails. When I think of dog teaming, I think of the Iditarod and wonder, and then come to know, what the strength of the story would mean for bringing generations together from Papa Blatchford to his eldest son Ernie and to the fourth generation of Blatchfords in Alaska.

There are times when I think that old-time Alaska is gone. But then my faith and confidence in the old-time spirit are ignited when I see what others in the Lower 48 see. When I was walking in downtown Philadelphia, I looked up and saw on an ancient federal building a stamped concrete sculpture of a dog musher leaning into a blizzard. Such is the way I think of the Iditarod and the lessons I learned growing up with the dog team, preserved in my memories.

Edgar Blatchford is former mayor of Seward, Mile 0 of the Iditarod Trail.

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Alaska

These lines are adding Alaska cruises. Is your favorite on the list?

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These lines are adding Alaska cruises. Is your favorite on the list?



New Alaska voyages debut in 2026 as lines like MSC Cruises and Virgin Voyages expand into the booming market.

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Travelers will have new ways to see Alaska this year.

A number of cruise lines are launching sailings to the Last Frontier in 2026, from luxury to large family-friendly and adults-only ships. About 65% of people visiting the state during the summer do so by cruise ship, according to Cruise Lines International Association Alaska, and demand is high.

“I think Alaska is always very popular, but we’re seeing that ships are selling out way quicker than they used to,” Joanna Kuther, a travel agent and owner of Port Side Travel Consultants, told USA TODAY. 

With new inventory opening up this season, here’s what travelers should know about Alaska cruises.

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Which cruise lines are adding Alaska sailings?

  • MSC Cruises will launch its first-ever Alaska sailings aboard MSC Poesia on May 11. The ship will be fresh from dry dock to add enhancements, including the line’s luxe ship-within-a-ship concept, the MSC Yacht Club.
  • Virgin Voyages’ newest ship, Brilliant Lady, will operate the company’s inaugural Alaska cruises. The adults-only cruise line will set sail there starting on May 21.
  • The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection will debut its first Alaska cruises this year on its Luminara vessel. The first of those sailings will depart on May 28.

Those join other operators like Holland America Line, Princess Cruises, American Cruise Lines, Norwegian Cruise Line, Royal Caribbean International, Disney Cruise Line, Celebrity Cruises and more.

What are the draws of Alaska cruises?

Glaciers are a major attraction for visitors. “One of the major (draws) is Glacier Bay,” said Kuther. “…And then the other one is definitely the wildlife.”

That includes bears, whales, moose and salmon. In addition to its many natural wonders, the state is also a cultural destination where visitors can learn about its Native peoples.

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When is the best time to take an Alaska cruise?

That depends what you’re looking for. The Alaska cruise season generally runs from April through October, and Kuther said visitors will tend to see more wildlife between the end of June through August.

“That’s super peak season,” she said. “That’s also where you’re going to have more families, more crowds.” Some locals have also said those crowds are putting a strain on the very environment tourists are there to see.

Travelers may find less packed ships and ports by visiting earlier or later in the season – and there are other perks. If passengers go in May “it’s still a little bit snowy, so your scenery is going to be really cool,” Kuther said. Travelers visiting in September or October, meanwhile, could have a better shot at seeing the northern lights.

Where do ships usually sail?

The most popular itinerary is the Inside Passage, according to Kuther. That often sails round-trip from Seattle or Vancouver with stops such as Juneau, Skagway and Ketchikan. “People will go back to Alaska and do different routes,” she said. “This is a very good way to start.” 

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Other options include one-way cruises between Vancouver or Seattle and Anchorage. Travelers can also take cruisetours that combine sailings with land-based exploration, including train rides and tours of Denali National Park and Preserve.

Tips for Alaska cruises

  • Book early: Alaska itineraries sell out quickly, and so do shore excursions. Unique offerings like helicopter tours and dog sledding are popular, and there are only so many spots.
  • Consider a balcony cabin: This is “almost a must” in Kuther’s opinion. Crew members may make announcements about whales or other sightings near the ship, and guests with their own private viewing spot won’t have to race out on deck.
  • Pack carefully: “Packing is an art when it comes to Alaska,” Kuther said. “It really is, because you need so many things.” Her top three picks are bug spray, layers of clothing for the fluctuating temperatures and a waterproof jacket in case of rain.

Nathan Diller is a consumer travel reporter for USA TODAY based in Nashville. You can reach him at ndiller@usatoday.com.



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