When people ask me how I hear about restaurants, I tell them some of my informants are publicists, chefs and restaurateurs. Only a lazy critic would rely exclusively on a group with vested interests, though, so I take pride in walking or driving around neighborhoods where I find myself eating to poke around for additional review prospects.
Washington, D.C
Review | Tom Sietsema’s 5 favorite places to eat in February
A line leading out of a little storefront at high noon or a busy parking lot might find me joining the ranks. If I smell something enticing coming out of a mom and pop, my tendency is to investigate the source of the aromas. Whenever I’m out of town and I’ve had a good meal, I ask the staff where else I should eat before I leave — never “What’s best?,” which too often lands you someplace fancy, but often, “Where do you dine on your off hours during the week?,” which feels more personal.
Other times when people ask me where I get my tips, I respond by pointing at them: Readers and others are among my best sources. Thanks to my discerning friend Todd, I discovered a Japanese oasis above a Thai retreat in Washington. Another reader was worried that a rave of a vegetarian Vietnamese restaurant in Northern Virginia might bring in crowds, but he thought I needed to know about the newcomer anyway. And a proud mentor of a rising star in the exurbs let me know the young chef was ready for prime time at a restaurant of his own.
My point is, the majority of this month’s favorite places to eat are suggestions from readers, whom I’d like to thank for looking out for their fellow diners. It takes a village.
Bangkok native Jenistar Ruksirisopha says she’s been a Japan fan since she first visited the country as a 10-year-old. “To be honest, if I could only eat one food for the rest of my life,” it would be Japanese, says the owner of the second-story restaurant whose name combines the Japanese word for treasure with its location on 14th St.
As she prepared to open two and a half years ago, however, her mother’s warning nagged her: As a Thai native, “no one’s going to believe you,” the budding restaurateur recalls being told. The daughter’s response was to hire a chef from what she considers the No. 1 Japanese draw in D.C., the sublime Sushi Nakazawa behind the Waldorf Astoria hotel.
Visit Takara 14 — and you should — and you’ll spot Johnny Yi behind a slim sushi counter. Like his employer, he’s not Japanese. The Maryland native’s parents are from Korea. Does it matter? Like the owner, he’s ever present in a restaurant I’m always happy to find myself in, which is precisely how Ruksirisopha wants customers to feel after they climb the steep stairs to the 30-seat dining room.
“Forget about being serious,” she says. The design helps. Cheery pink blossoms frame the front picture window and canary-yellow banquettes run along the sides of the walls, hung with illuminated branches. The setting is a fetching backdrop to a surprisingly long a la carte menu whose small-plate highlights include juicy pork belly and kabocha squash gyoza and tuna tartare — red with gochujang and fruity with apple — scooped up with nubby tempura seaweed chips. Did I mention the $5 beers, $7 drinks and $21 bottles of house wine at happy hour? Or the fact a server insisted on running to a neighboring restaurant to fetch mezcal after a customer requested a mezcal negroni? No wonder so many customers treat the space as a date night.
The food romances us, too, especially the well-priced omakase, or “chef’s choice.” A recent parade of dishes delivered one hit after another. One moment, we’re spooning into tofu whipped with radish, dashi and sake, a creamy base for blow-torched salmon glistening with orange roe. The next, we are scarfing folds of dewy hamachi wrapped around thread-thin fried potatoes, the soft and the crunch tied together with a hint of truffle oil. There are housemade pickles to escort wispy, panko-crusted pork tucked in its bowl with curry-kissed carrots and potatoes, distinctive sushi, and steaming red snapper broth to revive yourself at the end of six or so courses for $75 a diner.
The owner says she argues with the chef about some dishes. Yi prefers simplicity. She likes a little extra flourish. I’m only privy to what comes to the table: some of the most enthralling food of several seasons, and this amid a boom in Japanese restaurants in Washington.
Within the next three months, Ruksirisopha plans to open an eight-seat room upstairs just for omakase. Otherwise, she says, “we want to keep it intimate.”
I like the way she thinks, and I love the way Yi cooks.
1326 14th St. NW. 202-507-8973. takara14st.com. A la carte entrees, $24 to $46 (for A5 Wagyu beef).
Quick, what do the “clam” dip, shaky “beef” and spicy noodle soup at this young restaurant in Northern Virginia have in common?
They’re all vegetarian versions of familiar Vietnamese dishes, and they’re all impressive. That dip, flanked with rice crackers for scooping, is bright with lime and pungent with vegetarian fish sauce. The convincing stand-in for meat turns out to be nuggets of soy protein flavored with sesame oil and pineapple soy sauce. And the steaming Hue-style soup — red with annatto and tingling with lemongrass — is a throwback to when chef Lan Tran ran a pho restaurant in her native Vietnam.
Tran’s partner in the restaurant and in life is Thi Le. He’s the guy you see hopping from table to table in the always-busy dining room, joking with customers and pointing out hits on the menu, like “Heavenly” rice, which the co-owner describes with a big smile and you greedily devour once you taste the fluffy, grease-free grains scattered with fresh cilantro and dry tofu floss that look like wood shavings.
The food comes out as if you’re eating in a chain (fast), but the setting is personal. A small burbling fountain welcomes you at the entrance, and outsize lotus flowers draw eyes to the painted walls. Style is a side dish at Chay.
6351 Columbia Pike, Falls Church. 571-378-1771. chayrestaurant.com. Entrees, $15 to $48 (for shareable hot pot).
Some of the region’s most beloved dining destinations are found in small towns in Virginia. Think the Inn at Little Washington, the Restaurant at Patowmack Farm in Lovettsville and, since fall, Alias in Warrenton, an hour outside the District. The 30-seat newcomer is modeled after the intimate Three Blacksmiths in tiny Sperryville, which is where chef Stephen Burke worked with his wife, Kelly, before the couple opened a place of their own. Like Three Blacksmiths, Alias serves a tasting menu.
Like the Sperryville attraction, the Warrenton restaurant also embraces a couple hours of sublime entertainment, starting with snacks whose plates are as fetching as what they carry. Hope for sparkling ceviche in a fluted pastry shell on a scalloped gold plate, my first taste of a recent winter evening. Thoughtfully, Alias offers a vegetarian option along with its regular five-course menu. The best strategy is to order both and pass plates. Because the truffle-showered sliced roast chicken has an equal in housemade ravioli stuffed with pureed carrots lit with aji amarillo. Bread — a cross between French brioche and Japanese milk bread — gets it’s own course here, and the hot rolls are divine sops for the chef’s fine sauces.
My memories might not be yours; the menu, which incorporates ingredients from local farms and gardens, changes every few weeks. What I had this winter makes me hopeful for a return engagement in spring.
No disrespect to the pastry chef, the talent behind the lovely bonbons and edible parting gifts, but the sweetest thing here is the Burkes’ toddler, Atticus, who plays or naps behind the kitchen door and whose dad might trot him out at the end of service. Alias is a family affair, and an engaging one at that.
7150 Farm Station Rd., Warrenton, Va. 540-422-0340. aliasvinthill.com. Tasting menu $145 to $165 (at chef’s counter).
What to order? A newbie could refer to the window, covered with photos of dishes, or the wall near the entrance, plastered with rave reviews. I’m inclined to check out what my Chinese neighbors are eating as I make my way to a table in this busy storefront in the shadow of the University of Maryland.
Noodles, definitely something with noodles, are in my future. Steaming knife-cut noodles, cooked to retain some bite, coil beneath a cover of crumbled pork, shot through with garlic and black vinegar, everything cooled with torn romaine lettuce. The kitchen, under the watch of chef-owner Hua Wang, makes its own liang pi, wheat-flour noodles. I wouldn’t think of leaving without a “burger,” or rou jia mo, either. The chewy bread is baked in-house, twice a day, and makes a great companion to a filling of crumbled lamb, warm with cumin, sweet with onion and hopping with jalapeños. Then there are dumplings to consider. Make mine pork dumplings draped with a creamy blanket of sesame seeds and lit with chile oil.
The owner is from Shenyang, the capital of Liaoning Province in China, where she ran a noodle restaurant before coming to the United States in 2007. Wang says she opened Northwest Chinese Food in 2015 as a way to introduce people to the food she ate and loved growing up in a part of China known for its bold flavors and Korean influences. Indeed, there’s housemade kimchi in the restaurant’s little market within the dining room, which also sells Chinese candy and snacks and three kinds of Wang’s chile oil.
I’m reminded this is a student hangout when the college kid waiting on a table of his cost-conscious peers asks whether they’re ready for their check: “Together or separate?” I’m also reminded not to go solo on my next visit. Wang’s food begs to be shared.
7313 Baltimore Ave., College Park. 240-714-4473. northwestchinesefood.com. Small plates, $7.50 to $12.50; noodle dishes, $10.50 to $19.50.
December saw chef Enrique Limardo’s splashy flagship restaurant move from 14th Street to CityCenter DC, and I’m happy to report the trip was a success. The relocated brand retains the taste and look of the South American original, meaning one-bite, cheese-filled arepas await your appetite and green is a dominant color throughout the space, almost twice the size of the first.
“We kept the feel of an urban jungle,” says Ezequiel Vázquez-Ger, CEO of the Seven Reasons Group, now six restaurants strong. Vines crawl over brick walls, and verdant tiles pave the front of the bar, the source of drinks designed to impress. One bold statement, Bourbon Street, envelopes recipients in a little cloud of smoke when it’s presented. Take a sip. Calvados, apricot, thyme and nutmeg add to the cocktail’s intrigue.
There’s more where that came from thanks to the kitchen, headed up by José Ignacio “Nacho” Useche, the group’s general chef director. Visitors are welcomed with a gratis snack, on one recent night a creamy pumpkin soup dappled with chipotle oil.
One of the more dramatic ceviches in town, filed under “Joy” on the menu, finds red snapper and crunchy quinoa ringed in purple sweet potato puree and capped with what looks like meringue but is in fact a whip of coconut, fish bits and lemon juice playing the role of leche de tigre. A server tells us to “eat the parts separately, then together” for the full effect. Plump medallions of lamb loin are paired with a black rectangle of forbidden rice laced with bacon and plantains on a plate finished with a dollop of pureed black beans, feta and sour cream — my kind of dip — and an amber hot sauce sprung from chimichurri. The entree is among dishes labeled “Memories.” Useche says the categories underscore some of the guiding principles, including “Experience” and “Knowledge,” at Seven Reasons.
Desserts are as complex — and easy to like — as anything else on the menu. Take the guava cheesecake, which gathers almond crumble, dark chocolate pearls, goat cheese ice cream and guava in the form of gummies, foam and sheer tiles on top. The bill is sweetened with gratis little chocolate and peanut butter sweets.
Next month or early April, Seven Reasons plans to offer twice-monthly, 22-course chef’s tasting menus in a private room, Useche says. The event promises to be unlike any other tasting experience in Washington. For one thing, the menu will be all-Venezuelan, reflecting Limardo’s mother country. Guests will also interact with fellow diners. The biggest distinction? An escape room sounds like an icebreaker to me.
931 H St. NW. 202-417-8563. sevenreasonsdc.com. Dinner entrees, $30 to $165 (for shareable 35-ounce dry-aged rib-eye).
Washington, D.C
D.C. Police Chief manipulated crime data; new House Oversight report
TNND — A new report from the House Oversight Committee alleges former D.C. Police Chief Pamela Smith pressured officers to manipulate crime data. The committee released the report on Sunday, less than a week after Smith announced she was stepping down.
You’re lulling people into this false sense of security. They might go places they wouldn’t ordinarily go. They might do things they wouldn’t ordinarily do,” said Betsy Brantner Smith, spokesperson for the National Police Association.
Included in the report were transcribed interviews with the commanders of all seven D.C. patrol districts and the former commander currently on suspended leave. One was asked, “Over the last few years, has there been any internal pressure to simply bring down crime statistics?” Their response, “Yes, I mean extremethere’s always been pressure to keep crime down, but the focus on statistics… has come in with this current administration.”
Every single person who lives, works, or visits the District of Columbia deserves a safe city, yet it’s now clear the American people were deliberately kept in the dark about the true crime rates in our nation’s capital,” House Oversight Committee Chairman Rep. James Comer (R-KY) said in a statement.
“They are going to have to regain the public trust. Again, this is a huge integrity issue,” Brantner Smith said.
Among the reports findings, Smith’s alleged pressured campaign against staff led to inaccurate crime data. Smith punished or removed officers for reporting accurate crime numbers. Smith fostered a toxic culture and President Trump’s federal law enforcement surge in D.C. is working.
While Smith has not yet publicly responded to the report, she’s previously denied allegations of manipulating crime data, saying the investigation did not play a factor into her decision to step down at the end of the year.
My decision was not factored into anything with respect to, other than the fact that it’s time. I’ve had 28 years in law enforcement. I’ve had some time to think with my family,” Smith said earlier this month.
D.C. Mayor Muriel Bowser also released a statement Monday, writing in part that “the interim report betrays its bias from the outset, admitting that it was rushed to release.”
According to crime stats from the Metropolitan Police Department, since the federal law enforcement surge started in August, total violent crime is down 26%. Homicides are down 12% and carjackings 37%.
Washington, D.C
National Menorah Lighting in DC dedicated to Bondi Beach victims
The first candle lit on the National Menorah near the White House in Washington, D.C., marked the first night of Hanukkah — and solemnly honored victims of the Bondi Beach shooting.
The National Menorah Lighting was held Sunday night, hours after gunmen opened fire on a crowd celebrating the beginning of Hanukkah at Australia’s iconic Bondi Beach. Fifteen people were killed, including a 10-year-old girl, a rabbi and a Holocaust survivor, and over three dozen others were being treated at hospitals.
Authorities in Australia said it was a terrorist attack targeting Jewish people.
Organizers behind the National Menorah Lighting said the news from Australia, along with the bitter cold, forced them to consider whether or not to hold the annual event.
After consulting with local law enforcement, National Menorah Lighting organizers decided to hold the event and honor the victims.
Several D.C.-area police departments issued statements confirming there are no known threats to local communities, but are monitoring just in case.
Montgomery County Executive Mark Elrich condemned the attack and said community safety is a priority.
“Acts of antisemitism, especially those meant to intimidate families and communities during moments of gathering and celebration, must be called out clearly and condemned without hesitation,” Elrich said. “I have heard directly from members of Montgomery County’s Jewish community who are shaken and concerned, and I want them to know that their safety is a priority.”
Washington, D.C
READ: Report accuses DC Police Chief Pamela Smith of ‘fear, intimidation, threats’
WASHINGTON (7News) — Metropolitan Police Department (MPD) Chief Pamela Smith is facing yet another scathing report accusing her of manipulating crime data in the city.
The 22-page document from the House Committee on Oversight and Government Reform comes less than a week after a separate draft report from the Department of Justice (DOJ) and days after Chief Smith turned in her resignation.
The main difference between the Congressional report and the DOJ report is that this new one, released on December 14, contains transcribed interviews directly with commanders from all seven MPD patrol districts.
RELATED | DC Police settles with former employee over claims that crime numbers were manipulated
The testimony reveals how Chief Smith chastised and, in some cases, publicly humiliated staff in crime briefings.
“The Committee’s investigation heard consistent testimony about frustration and exhaustion among MPD commanders and the manifestation of a culture of fear, intimidation, threats, and retaliation by Chief Smith. Often, these manifestations were triggered whenever the Chief was presented with what she considers ‘bad news,’ particularly when that news pertained to any rise in public crime statistics. Chief Smith, according to testimonies, regularly took action against her subordinates who failed to aid in the preservation of her public image,” the report states on page two.
RELATED | Trump announces probe into DC police for inflating crime stats amid safety claims
The committee launched the investigation in August when whistleblowers came forward with concerns about data manipulation.
One line of questioning in the report states:
Question: Over the last few years, has there been any internal pressure to simply bring down crime statistics?
Answer: Yes, I mean extreme… there’s always been pressure to keep crime down, but the focus on statistics… has come in with this current administration or regime, and you know, that has manifested publicly.
7News reached out to Mayor Bowser’s Office for a comment in response to the report. A spokesperson provided the following statement:
The men and women of the Metropolitan Police Department run towards danger every day to reduce homicides, carjackings, armed robberies, sexual assaults, and more. The precipitous decline in crime in our city is attributable to their hard work and dedication and Chief Smith’s leadership.
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I thank Chief Smith for her commitment to the safety of D.C. residents and for holding the Metropolitan Police Department to an exacting standard, and I expect no less from our next Chief of Police.
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