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Review | Tom Sietsema’s 5 favorite places to eat in February

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Review | Tom Sietsema’s 5 favorite places to eat in February


When people ask me how I hear about restaurants, I tell them some of my informants are publicists, chefs and restaurateurs. Only a lazy critic would rely exclusively on a group with vested interests, though, so I take pride in walking or driving around neighborhoods where I find myself eating to poke around for additional review prospects.

A line leading out of a little storefront at high noon or a busy parking lot might find me joining the ranks. If I smell something enticing coming out of a mom and pop, my tendency is to investigate the source of the aromas. Whenever I’m out of town and I’ve had a good meal, I ask the staff where else I should eat before I leave — never “What’s best?,” which too often lands you someplace fancy, but often, “Where do you dine on your off hours during the week?,” which feels more personal.

Other times when people ask me where I get my tips, I respond by pointing at them: Readers and others are among my best sources. Thanks to my discerning friend Todd, I discovered a Japanese oasis above a Thai retreat in Washington. Another reader was worried that a rave of a vegetarian Vietnamese restaurant in Northern Virginia might bring in crowds, but he thought I needed to know about the newcomer anyway. And a proud mentor of a rising star in the exurbs let me know the young chef was ready for prime time at a restaurant of his own.

Dining chat: ‘Help! My food comes out too fast.’

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My point is, the majority of this month’s favorite places to eat are suggestions from readers, whom I’d like to thank for looking out for their fellow diners. It takes a village.

Bangkok native Jenistar Ruksirisopha says she’s been a Japan fan since she first visited the country as a 10-year-old. “To be honest, if I could only eat one food for the rest of my life,” it would be Japanese, says the owner of the second-story restaurant whose name combines the Japanese word for treasure with its location on 14th St.

As she prepared to open two and a half years ago, however, her mother’s warning nagged her: As a Thai native, “no one’s going to believe you,” the budding restaurateur recalls being told. The daughter’s response was to hire a chef from what she considers the No. 1 Japanese draw in D.C., the sublime Sushi Nakazawa behind the Waldorf Astoria hotel.

Visit Takara 14 — and you should — and you’ll spot Johnny Yi behind a slim sushi counter. Like his employer, he’s not Japanese. The Maryland native’s parents are from Korea. Does it matter? Like the owner, he’s ever present in a restaurant I’m always happy to find myself in, which is precisely how Ruksirisopha wants customers to feel after they climb the steep stairs to the 30-seat dining room.

Potomac’s newest restaurant has too much style, too little substance

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“Forget about being serious,” she says. The design helps. Cheery pink blossoms frame the front picture window and canary-yellow banquettes run along the sides of the walls, hung with illuminated branches. The setting is a fetching backdrop to a surprisingly long a la carte menu whose small-plate highlights include juicy pork belly and kabocha squash gyoza and tuna tartare — red with gochujang and fruity with apple — scooped up with nubby tempura seaweed chips. Did I mention the $5 beers, $7 drinks and $21 bottles of house wine at happy hour? Or the fact a server insisted on running to a neighboring restaurant to fetch mezcal after a customer requested a mezcal negroni? No wonder so many customers treat the space as a date night.

The food romances us, too, especially the well-priced omakase, or “chef’s choice.” A recent parade of dishes delivered one hit after another. One moment, we’re spooning into tofu whipped with radish, dashi and sake, a creamy base for blow-torched salmon glistening with orange roe. The next, we are scarfing folds of dewy hamachi wrapped around thread-thin fried potatoes, the soft and the crunch tied together with a hint of truffle oil. There are housemade pickles to escort wispy, panko-crusted pork tucked in its bowl with curry-kissed carrots and potatoes, distinctive sushi, and steaming red snapper broth to revive yourself at the end of six or so courses for $75 a diner.

The owner says she argues with the chef about some dishes. Yi prefers simplicity. She likes a little extra flourish. I’m only privy to what comes to the table: some of the most enthralling food of several seasons, and this amid a boom in Japanese restaurants in Washington.

Within the next three months, Ruksirisopha plans to open an eight-seat room upstairs just for omakase. Otherwise, she says, “we want to keep it intimate.”

I like the way she thinks, and I love the way Yi cooks.

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1326 14th St. NW. 202-507-8973. takara14st.com. A la carte entrees, $24 to $46 (for A5 Wagyu beef).

Quick, what do the “clam” dip, shaky “beef” and spicy noodle soup at this young restaurant in Northern Virginia have in common?

They’re all vegetarian versions of familiar Vietnamese dishes, and they’re all impressive. That dip, flanked with rice crackers for scooping, is bright with lime and pungent with vegetarian fish sauce. The convincing stand-in for meat turns out to be nuggets of soy protein flavored with sesame oil and pineapple soy sauce. And the steaming Hue-style soup — red with annatto and tingling with lemongrass — is a throwback to when chef Lan Tran ran a pho restaurant in her native Vietnam.

Vietnamese and vegetarian, Chay makes a splash in Falls Church

Tran’s partner in the restaurant and in life is Thi Le. He’s the guy you see hopping from table to table in the always-busy dining room, joking with customers and pointing out hits on the menu, like “Heavenly” rice, which the co-owner describes with a big smile and you greedily devour once you taste the fluffy, grease-free grains scattered with fresh cilantro and dry tofu floss that look like wood shavings.

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The food comes out as if you’re eating in a chain (fast), but the setting is personal. A small burbling fountain welcomes you at the entrance, and outsize lotus flowers draw eyes to the painted walls. Style is a side dish at Chay.

6351 Columbia Pike, Falls Church. 571-378-1771. chayrestaurant.com. Entrees, $15 to $48 (for shareable hot pot).

Some of the region’s most beloved dining destinations are found in small towns in Virginia. Think the Inn at Little Washington, the Restaurant at Patowmack Farm in Lovettsville and, since fall, Alias in Warrenton, an hour outside the District. The 30-seat newcomer is modeled after the intimate Three Blacksmiths in tiny Sperryville, which is where chef Stephen Burke worked with his wife, Kelly, before the couple opened a place of their own. Like Three Blacksmiths, Alias serves a tasting menu.

A sublime new fine-dining oasis makes Warrenton, Va., worth the trip

Like the Sperryville attraction, the Warrenton restaurant also embraces a couple hours of sublime entertainment, starting with snacks whose plates are as fetching as what they carry. Hope for sparkling ceviche in a fluted pastry shell on a scalloped gold plate, my first taste of a recent winter evening. Thoughtfully, Alias offers a vegetarian option along with its regular five-course menu. The best strategy is to order both and pass plates. Because the truffle-showered sliced roast chicken has an equal in housemade ravioli stuffed with pureed carrots lit with aji amarillo. Bread — a cross between French brioche and Japanese milk bread — gets it’s own course here, and the hot rolls are divine sops for the chef’s fine sauces.

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My memories might not be yours; the menu, which incorporates ingredients from local farms and gardens, changes every few weeks. What I had this winter makes me hopeful for a return engagement in spring.

No disrespect to the pastry chef, the talent behind the lovely bonbons and edible parting gifts, but the sweetest thing here is the Burkes’ toddler, Atticus, who plays or naps behind the kitchen door and whose dad might trot him out at the end of service. Alias is a family affair, and an engaging one at that.

7150 Farm Station Rd., Warrenton, Va. 540-422-0340. aliasvinthill.com. Tasting menu $145 to $165 (at chef’s counter).

What to order? A newbie could refer to the window, covered with photos of dishes, or the wall near the entrance, plastered with rave reviews. I’m inclined to check out what my Chinese neighbors are eating as I make my way to a table in this busy storefront in the shadow of the University of Maryland.

Noodles, definitely something with noodles, are in my future. Steaming knife-cut noodles, cooked to retain some bite, coil beneath a cover of crumbled pork, shot through with garlic and black vinegar, everything cooled with torn romaine lettuce. The kitchen, under the watch of chef-owner Hua Wang, makes its own liang pi, wheat-flour noodles. I wouldn’t think of leaving without a “burger,” or rou jia mo, either. The chewy bread is baked in-house, twice a day, and makes a great companion to a filling of crumbled lamb, warm with cumin, sweet with onion and hopping with jalapeños. Then there are dumplings to consider. Make mine pork dumplings draped with a creamy blanket of sesame seeds and lit with chile oil.

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The owner is from Shenyang, the capital of Liaoning Province in China, where she ran a noodle restaurant before coming to the United States in 2007. Wang says she opened Northwest Chinese Food in 2015 as a way to introduce people to the food she ate and loved growing up in a part of China known for its bold flavors and Korean influences. Indeed, there’s housemade kimchi in the restaurant’s little market within the dining room, which also sells Chinese candy and snacks and three kinds of Wang’s chile oil.

I’m reminded this is a student hangout when the college kid waiting on a table of his cost-conscious peers asks whether they’re ready for their check: “Together or separate?” I’m also reminded not to go solo on my next visit. Wang’s food begs to be shared.

7313 Baltimore Ave., College Park. 240-714-4473. northwestchinesefood.com. Small plates, $7.50 to $12.50; noodle dishes, $10.50 to $19.50.

December saw chef Enrique Limardo’s splashy flagship restaurant move from 14th Street to CityCenter DC, and I’m happy to report the trip was a success. The relocated brand retains the taste and look of the South American original, meaning one-bite, cheese-filled arepas await your appetite and green is a dominant color throughout the space, almost twice the size of the first.

“We kept the feel of an urban jungle,” says Ezequiel Vázquez-Ger, CEO of the Seven Reasons Group, now six restaurants strong. Vines crawl over brick walls, and verdant tiles pave the front of the bar, the source of drinks designed to impress. One bold statement, Bourbon Street, envelopes recipients in a little cloud of smoke when it’s presented. Take a sip. Calvados, apricot, thyme and nutmeg add to the cocktail’s intrigue.

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There’s more where that came from thanks to the kitchen, headed up by José Ignacio “Nacho” Useche, the group’s general chef director. Visitors are welcomed with a gratis snack, on one recent night a creamy pumpkin soup dappled with chipotle oil.

Seven Reasons gives you many more than that to dine there

One of the more dramatic ceviches in town, filed under “Joy” on the menu, finds red snapper and crunchy quinoa ringed in purple sweet potato puree and capped with what looks like meringue but is in fact a whip of coconut, fish bits and lemon juice playing the role of leche de tigre. A server tells us to “eat the parts separately, then together” for the full effect. Plump medallions of lamb loin are paired with a black rectangle of forbidden rice laced with bacon and plantains on a plate finished with a dollop of pureed black beans, feta and sour cream — my kind of dip — and an amber hot sauce sprung from chimichurri. The entree is among dishes labeled “Memories.” Useche says the categories underscore some of the guiding principles, including “Experience” and “Knowledge,” at Seven Reasons.

Desserts are as complex — and easy to like — as anything else on the menu. Take the guava cheesecake, which gathers almond crumble, dark chocolate pearls, goat cheese ice cream and guava in the form of gummies, foam and sheer tiles on top. The bill is sweetened with gratis little chocolate and peanut butter sweets.

Next month or early April, Seven Reasons plans to offer twice-monthly, 22-course chef’s tasting menus in a private room, Useche says. The event promises to be unlike any other tasting experience in Washington. For one thing, the menu will be all-Venezuelan, reflecting Limardo’s mother country. Guests will also interact with fellow diners. The biggest distinction? An escape room sounds like an icebreaker to me.

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931 H St. NW. 202-417-8563. sevenreasonsdc.com. Dinner entrees, $30 to $165 (for shareable 35-ounce dry-aged rib-eye).



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Storm Team4 Forecast: A chilly, gusty Sunday before a cool start to the week

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Storm Team4 Forecast: A chilly, gusty Sunday before a cool start to the week


4 things to know about the weather:

  1. Chances of rain in the morning
  2. Gusty Sunday
  3. Chilly Monday
  4. Temps will rise again through the work week

Download the NBC Washington app on iOS and Android to check the weather radar on the go.

After a nice and warm Saturday, changes arrive for part two of the weekend.

The first half of your Sunday will have a chance for showers. Winds will pick up with our next system and are expected to gust to about 20-30 mph. Cooler air will settle in, and lows Sunday night fall into the 40s.

Highs temps Monday will reach only into the mid to upper 50s.

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However, temperatures will rise through the week, so you won’t need your jackets every day.

QuickCast

SUNDAY:
Showers, then partly cloudy
Wind: NW 10-15 mph
Gusts @ 30 mph
HIGH: Lower 60s

MONDAY:
Partly cloudy
Wind: NW 10-15 mph
Gusts @ 25 mph
HIGH: Upper 50s

Stay with Storm Team4 for the latest forecast. Download the NBC Washington app on iOS and Android to get severe weather alerts on your phone.



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‘It’s a twilight zone’: Iran war casts deep shadows over IMF gathering in Washington

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‘It’s a twilight zone’: Iran war casts deep shadows over IMF gathering in Washington


The most severe energy shock since the 1970s, the risk of a global recession and households everywhere stomaching a renewed surge in the cost of living – hitting the most vulnerable hardest.

In a sweltering hot Washington DC this week, the message at the International Monetary Fund meetings was chilling: things had been looking up for living standards around the world. But then came the Iran war.

“Some countries are in panic,” said the fund’s managing director, Kristalina Georgieva, addressing the finance ministers and central bank bosses in town for the IMF and World Bank spring meetings. “The sooner it [the Iran war] ends, the better for everybody.”

Such gatherings are not typically used to fight geopolitical battles. “You don’t get people shouting at one another at these things,” one senior figure remarked. But, as a record-breaking April heatwave swept the US capital, no one could ignore the mounting damage from the Iran war.

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Those familiar with the mood over breakfast at a meeting of the G20’s representatives on Thursday, which included Donald Trump’s treasury secretary, Scott Bessent, and the outgoing US Federal Reserve chair, Jerome Powell – said the atmosphere in the room was sombre amid an open exchange of serious views.

“It is such a twilight-zone meeting,” said Mohamed El-Erian, a former IMF deputy managing director who is now chief economic adviser at the Allianz insurance group. “There are several shadows hanging over it: one is the shadow that comes from concern about the global economy as a whole.

“The second is that some countries are going to be particularly hard hit, and it’s mostly countries that very few people are talking about. But the third concern is the adding of insult to injury: the fact that the US, which started a war of choice, is going to be hit, but by a lot less than elsewhere in relative terms.”

Before Thursday’s breakfast, Rachel Reeves had started her day with an early-morning jog. Joined by her counterparts from Spain, Australia and New Zealand for a run down the iconic National Mall, she posted an Instagram selfie with a not-so-subtle dig: “Friends that run together – work together.”

A day earlier, the chancellor had told a CNBC conference that she thought “friends are allowed to disagree on things” as she criticised Trump’s Iran war as a “mistake” and a “folly” that had not made the world safer.

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Rachel Reeves posted this image on Instagram from Washington DC on Thursday with the message: ‘Friends that run together – work together.’ Photograph: Rachel Reeves/Instagram

Speaking at a venue just steps away from the White House, before a one-on-one meeting with Bessent, she said this “fair message” was needed because UK families and businesses were feeling the pain from higher energy prices triggered by the conflict.

Those close to Reeves insist her meeting remained cordial. Britain and the US have significant shared interests in AI, financial services and trade. The chancellor also said the UK government had little time for the Iranian regime.

But with the IMF having warned on Tuesday that the Iran war could risk a global recession – in which Britain would be the biggest G7 casualty – it was clear Reeves had travelled to Washington ready to pick a fight.

“I’m struck by how vocal she has been and the words she used,” said one global financier. “We know the disagreement between Bessent and [European Central Bank president] Christine Lagarde earlier in the year. But that was in private.”

At a cocktail party held at the British ambassador’s residence for hundreds of diplomats and financiers – including the Bank of England’s governor, Andrew Bailey, the chief executive of Barclays, CS Venkatakrishnan, and dozens of senior figures – this transatlantic tension, weeks before King Charles’s US state visit, was a major topic of conversation.

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The other, in the balmy residence gardens, was one of its former occupants, Peter Mandelson, as revelations about the former ambassador’s appointment threatened to further rock the UK government.

Before the war, the agenda for the IMF had been about global cooperation; the adoption of AI, jobs and work to eradicate poverty. Each of those tasks had now been complicated, but not least the task of countries working together.

For many at the meetings, the focus was on forging closer global cooperation without the world’s pre-eminent superpower.

“Everybody is talking about how you hedge against American decisions,” said David Miliband, the former UK foreign secretary, who now runs the International Rescue Committee. “You can’t do without them, because they’re 25% of the global economy. But, in a lot of fora, they’ve pulled out.

“So everyone has to think, how does one structure international cooperation? The old west is not coming back. And so everyone has to figure out how to position themselves for that world.”

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For those gathering in Washington, there was irony in the fact that they were meeting in the halls of institutions founded, under US leadership, to promote global cooperation after the second world war. The whole idea of the Bretton Woods institutions was to avoid the dire economic conditions and warfare of the 1930s and 1940s. Yet this year’s meeting was taking place amid these intertwining problems.

In their conversations about the best economic policy response to the shock of conflict, the economists also knew the real power to make a difference lay two blocks across town from the IMF and the World Bank – behind the security cordons and construction equipment blocking the White House from public view. “It is not clear they can do anything about it,” said El-Erian.

Still, with a booming economy driven by AI – including Anthropic’s powerful Mythos model, the topic of much conversation – most countries cannot afford to completely break off US ties.

“People want to find ways to insulate themselves from the mess. But, on the other hand, they admire the US private sector,” El-Erian said. “The best way I’ve heard it put, is: they want to go long the private sector and short the mess. But it’s almost impossible to do.”





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Rosselli opens in DC, serving classic Italian flavors from chef Carlos

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Rosselli opens in DC, serving classic Italian flavors from chef Carlos


Rosselli is the newest restaurant to open in DC.

Bringing in classic Italian flavors, Chef Carlos explained how he hopes his food is a unique addition to the Italian food scene in the DMV.

Chef also demoed a signature dish with Brian and Megan.

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