This Virginia Beach gas station has barbecue that’s smack-your-mama good

In this neck of the woods, folks take three things very seriously: religion, politics and barbecue.

Virginia is the first home of what would become such a revered food and foodway, and across the commonwealth there are pitmasters preparing dishes that are, well, smack-your-mama good.

Near Strawbridge, Malbon Bros. Corner Mart BBQ has been a go-to for barbecue since 1995.

Located inside a gas station/convenience store, decked out with a painting of a big pink pig face on the side of the building, the operation has ties to the original Malbon Brothers Hog Farm established here in 1923.

Pass by aisles of canned goods and coolers filled with milk and soft drinks and the restaurant is tucked in the back corner of the store, with a short row of booths nearby.

There is also a refrigerated grab-and-go case to pick up items like barbecue by-the-pound, and sides such as macaroni and cheese, slaw, and baked beans for lunches and dinners.

___

The Eat: The Pigwich sandwich, $8.49

There’s no lack of options on the menu, including platters of brisket, chicken and pork barbecue, and ribs.

From a list of sandwiches ranging in size from Piglet to Boss Hog, I picked the Pigwich.

What’s the Pigwich? Think of a grilled cheese, but with barbecue stuffed in with all the ooey, gooey-ness.

The barbecue is smoked in-house.

Two thick slices of Texas toast are stuffed with Malbon’s signature pulled pork, slaw, and pickles, then slices of cheese. The sandwich is grilled until toasted golden brown on the outside, and the cheese melts on the inside, marrying all the flavors together.

This was a delicious sandwich. The toast was crisp on the outside, making the perfect platform for the sassy-sweet barbecue. In these parts slaw goes on barbecue, and the tangy, crunchy offering here adds both taste and texture, as does the piquant pickles. The American cheese was a wonderful foil to it all.

I made the sandwich a meal for an upcharge of $3.19 that included a fountain drink and a side dish, deeply flavored, earthy collard greens. I also added a second side dish, a rich and robust cup of baked beans.

There are a number of housemade sauces to enjoy at Malbon’s. Tilli’s is a sharp Carolina-style, and Pig Pickin’ Billy is a more sweet variety. I loved both, and alternated their use on the sandwich every couple of bites.

___

The Drink: Soft drink

Along with the meal deal I picked with the Pigwich Sandwich came a large fountain drink.

Malbon Bros. Corner Mart BBQ is at 1896 General Booth Blvd., Virginia Beach. Call 757-427-9607 or visit www.MalbonBrothersBBQ.com.

Patrick Evans-Hylton, PatrickEvansHylton@gmail.com