Just when it seemed that the skincare industry had exhausted itself with absurd products and cyborgian procedures, Kim Kardashian brought a new one into the cultural consciousness. In the summer of 2024, Kim Kardashian announced on “The Kardashians” that she had salmon sperm injected into her face, spurring reactions of glee and intrigue that echoed from Rodeo Drive to TikTok.

Salmon sperm facials — which are sometimes called salmon DNA facials for civility’s sake — have become the latest addition to med spa menus across Los Angeles. Formula Fig in Culver City and West Hollywood recently added what is called “the longevity treatment,” which is its take on the popular facial, for $550. Done by Dorfman, a Beverly Hills-based med spa that boasts a celebrity client list, offers the procedure for $750. Kanodia Med Spa, also Beverly Hills-based, offers the facials starting at $1,000.

The procedure is performed through microneedling, which forms channels in the skin before the product is applied topically to the face. Using salmon DNA as an injectable is not yet FDA-approved, so doctors and med spas apply it in conjunction with microneedling and laser treatments. (The substance itself carries an orange-ish tint.) The procedure promises youthful, smooth skin and has been rapidly gaining popularity, thanks partly to endorsements on social media and by celebrities like Jennifer Aniston and Charli XCX.

The idea to use salmon sperm for regeneration is older than you might think. The study of salmon DNA for wound healing was originally pioneered in Italy in the 1980s, said Dr. Zakia Rahman, a clinical professor at Stanford’s School of Dermatology. In the last few years, there has been a resurgence of scientific interest in the substance as a beauty treatment in Korea.

In fact, many doctors source salmon DNA from there. Dr. Donald Yoo, a facial plastic surgeon in Beverly Hills, uses a substance called Rejuran, which is procured from one ocean-side factory in a beachfront town in Gangneung, Korea. In October of last year, he visited the factory during the salmon spawning season to witness the extraction process, which kills the salmon as the DNA is removed.

“During the tour, they showed us the streams where the salmon were captured, the factory where they process the salmon DNA, and actually had us handle some of the live salmon prior to processing,” he says.

Dr. Yoo argues that the uncanniness of salmon sperm is what has made the procedure so popular. His office in Beverly Hills offers the treatment for a starting price of $850.

“There’s a little bit of that shock factor involved,” says Dr. Yoo. “The reason that it’s growing is the fact that science has given it a good, strong basis.”

What basis is that? It begins with polynucleotides, which are fragments of DNA derived from salmon sperm. They were previously used in wound healing after clinical studies showed that they accelerated the tissue repair process. Salmon DNA, as it turns out, shares striking similarities with human DNA, causing it to stimulate collagen production, according to a 2022 peer-reviewed study in the journal Marine Drugs.

“It decreases inflammation,” says Dr. Yoo. “It promotes cell proliferation and blood vessel proliferation.”

When applied to the face, it can result in a soft, radiant, even-toned complexion. For years, scientists in Europe and South Korea have performed clinical studies of salmon DNA on skin to investigate its effect on collagen reproduction. One study conducted on wound healing in mice showed that administering polynucleotides expedited healing and collagen density.

However, despite the growing interest in this treatment, Dr. Rahman is not convinced of its efficacy.

“You have to be careful before jumping on a trend to see if it’s scientifically valid,” said Dr. Rahman.

After reviewing the scientific research, she explains that because of how the nucleotides function on the cell level, they can potentially be harmful to patients with rosacea and can actually cause some inflammation within the cells.

She notes that, when it comes to absorption, polynucleotides are also relatively large, as opposed to more commonly used skin treatment ingredients like retinoids and vitamin C.

“The reason why retinoids and vitamin C work so well is that they’re very small and they can penetrate the skin,” says Dr. Rahman. “So this, if you were just to apply it topically, probably wouldn’t get absorbed.”

From a scientific perspective, it’s not clear that salmon DNA has the potential benefits that are advertised, she said, adding that established methods still yield the best results.

“If you’re using a topical retinoid or topical vitamin C, they’re much less expensive,” she says. “A lot of the laser treatments that we do, which are FDA-cleared for things like collagen stimulation and resurfacing of the skin, are actually much more cost-effective.”

She also has sustainability concerns. After all, salmon sperm is finite.

“Do we really want to kill more salmon for their gonads?” she asks.

Nevertheless, the trend has become widespread in Europe and South Korea, and in the last year, it has developed a loyal fan base in the U.S. On Instagram, the hashtag #salmonspermfacial has over 5,000 posts featuring before-and-after photos. On TikTok, viral testimonials about salmon DNA facials rack up hundreds of thousands of likes.

Jorian Palos discovered salmon DNA facials after searching for a way to lessen her eye bags and discoloration. She tried the treatment at a med spa chain called Skin Station in Orange County. She said the process was slightly disquieting.

“It was painful, just because it’s salmon semen essentially going under your eye.”

Though she was happy with her results, the recovery was also intense.

“My face was bruised under my eyes for about a week,” she said. “It turned purple, and then it turned yellow.”

Shirel Swissa did not have as an intense recovery. She routinely microneedles and vouches for the treatment.

“Right now, my skin is the smoothest and clearest it’s been in forever,” she says. “There’s no texture. It also helps with my active acne.”

As for the sperm element, Swissa is unbothered: “It smells a tiny bit fishy. It’s not overpowering, but it’s tolerable.”

Dr. Yoo says it’s good to be skeptical of the latest health trend, but predicts that, based on the results he’s seen, salmon sperm facials will stick around.

“It’s an exploding field,” he said.

No pun intended.