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Here's where a fourth-generation lobsterman goes for lobster rolls in Maine

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Here's where a fourth-generation lobsterman goes for lobster rolls in Maine


Alamy Lobster roll (Credit: Alamy)Alamy

(Credit: Alamy)

Heather Strout Thompson has been hauling lobster since traps were wooden. Here are her top lobster rolls in her home state of Maine, from Chipman’s Wharf to Luke’s Lobster.

Hundreds of years ago, lobsters washed up in droves along what’s now Maine’s rocky coast, so plentiful and cheap it was fed to prisoners. Today, tourists from all over come to the US’s north-easternmost state for the meatiest, sweetest lobster in the world, thanks to its freezing cold waters. And the best lobsters naturally make the best lobster rolls.

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Heather Strout Thompson has been hauling lobsters since traps were wooden, starting as a 10-year-old on her dad’s lobster boat in the 1980s. Now, with her sister and niece assisting her as sternmen, she’s captain of the boat she built. Her 36ft Wayne Beal fishing vessel, “Gold Digger”, even finished first in five of Maine’s celebrated Lobster Boat Races.

The lobster roll is a classic and beloved New England sandwich, featuring fat hunks of delicious lobster meat stuffed into a grilled, split-top hot dog bun. To find Maine’s top specimens, we spoke to Heather Strout Thompson, a fourth-generation lobsterman (a gender-neutral term in Maine) from the town of Harrington, who’s among a growing number (now 15%, up from 8% 10 years ago) of females in this male-dominated industry.

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“Fishing is in our blood,” says Thompson. “It’s the only thing I’ve ever done, so I’m going to do everything I can to protect it – for my grandchildren and theirs.’”

Thompson says the most tender, succulent lobster comes from the freshest daily catch. So whether you take your lobster roll drenched in melted butter (New England style) or tossed cold in a touch of mayonnaise (the Maine way), you can count on one thing: Thompson’s list of family-owned shacks and restaurants along the Maine coast serve their lobster rolls trap to table, no freezer needed.

Here are Thompson’s favourite lobster rolls in her home state.

Getty Images For delicious lobster rolls right off the boat, Chipman's Wharf in Milbridge is a guarantee (Credit: Getty Images)Getty Images

For delicious lobster rolls right off the boat, Chipman’s Wharf in Milbridge is a guarantee (Credit: Getty Images)

1. The best off the boat: Chipman’s Wharf, Milbridge

From the rooftop restaurant of Chipman’s Wharf, overlooking a working waterfront, a lobster roll has never tasted sweeter, says Thompson. 

An industry in peril

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The Gulf of Maine is warming faster than 99% of the world’s oceans, and with mounting regulations, the delicacy in Southern Maine is now scarcer by the year. In nearby Connecticut, where the first lobster roll was made in 1929, along with southern New England, the lobster population has declined by 70%, forcing Maine’s multigenerational lobstering families to work even harder to survive.

Visitors can support the industry by eating the best lobster rolls anywhere, straight from the boat.

Forty-four miles east of Acadia National Park on the Narraguagus River, lobster rolls are ordered (hot buttered or cold with light mayo) while patrons watch the boats deliver their catch. One of these boats is driven by owner John Chipman, a third-generation lobsterman, who constructed the restaurant in 2002.

“At Chipman’s they’re all lobstermen, and they’re bringing it up to the restaurant themselves, so you know it’s the freshest,” says Thompson.

Chipman recently had to reconstruct the restaurant’s 106ft wharf after the pilings and the 800 traps on them washed away in January 2024 storm floods that ravaged coastal Maine. But with a few dozen steadfast lobstermen delivering daily, this seasonal family restaurant isn’t letting up anytime soon. And if you prefer making your lobster roll at home, they ship too.

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Alamy Luke's Lobster is a household name for lobster roll lovers around the world, but there's only one Luke's Lobster restaurant and it's in Portland, Maine (Credit: Alamy)Alamy

Luke’s Lobster is a household name for lobster roll lovers around the world, but there’s only one Luke’s Lobster restaurant and it’s in Portland, Maine (Credit: Alamy)

2. The best for sustainability: Luke’s Lobster, Portland  

As a third-generation lobsterman, Luke Holden traded Wall Street investing in his 20s to start a tiny lobster shack with his partner, Ben Connif, in Manhattan’s East Village, sourcing directly from his dad’s Maine lobster processing facility.

Thompson’s tips

• Avoid seasonal crowds; travel in the shoulder season (May, September-October)

• Tracing from trap to table, meet a lobsterman on their lobstering tour.

• Go see a working waterfront (in Portland, Millbridge, Stonington, Monhegan, Friendship, Beals, Southwest Harbor or Vinalhaven).

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Luke’s Lobster now has 17 branches in Japan, Singapore and across the US, but there’s only one fully fledged restaurant and it sits at the end of an old fishing pier with one of the best views of Casco Bay in the growing foodie mecca of Portland. The company’s lobsters, which are always bought directly from lobstermen, are kissed with a touch of butter and mayo and topped with Holden’s special seasoning.

Now back in Maine, Holden has his own Maine processing plant and donates a portion of his proceeds to preserve fishing communities and ocean sustainability, using only renewable energy and helping lobstermen reduce their carbon footprint.

“What Luke has done is vital to the future of Maine’s lobster industry,” she adds. “And, because the meat is so fresh, he makes a darn good lobster roll.”

Getty Images Monhegan Island is an hour-long ferry ride away from the mainland, but worth it for its succulent lobster rolls (Credit: Getty Images)Getty Images

Monhegan Island is an hour-long ferry ride away from the mainland, but worth it for its succulent lobster rolls (Credit: Getty Images)

3. The best hidden gem: Fish House, Monhegan Island

After an hour-long ferry ride from Boothbay, New Harbor or Port Clyde, a lobster roll is non-negotiable at Fish House at Mohegan Island, a fish house and seafood market owned by harbour master Sherman “Shermie” Stanley. The only place in Maine with exclusive rights to lobstering in the surrounding waters, Monhegan Island is also the state’s sole spot with a winter lobster season, kicking off on 1 October – on Trap Day, the island’s holiday.

Thompson’s tips: how to eat lobster like a local

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• A softshell lobster available July-September) may contain less meat, but it’s sweeter and so soft you can rip it with your hands. No shell-cracking tool necessary.

• Skip the celery and tarragon. Let the lobster be the star: serve in a split-top hot dog bun, buttered on the griddle. Top with melted butter, light mayo or both.

• If preparing at home, leave no meat behind, starting with the legs.

That means lots of fresh lobster for the 59 year-round residents willing to tough it out in Maine’s freezing winters 12 miles out to sea – and its many visitors. This breathtakingly beautiful island doubles as an artist colony, drawing famous artists like Rockwell Kent and Jamie Wyeth, who still lives there seasonally.

Thompson suggests pairing your lobster roll with a tasty beer from lobsterman Matt Weber and his wife Mary at their nearby Monhegan Brewery before devouring a fresh lobster roll (mayo and a side of melted butter) at Fish Beach overlooking the harbour: “Their lobster roll is filled with giant satisfying chunks of claw meat.”

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Website: www.monheganfishhouse.com

Address: Fish Beach, Monhegan

Phone: 207-594-8368

Instagram: @monheganfishhouse

Getty Images Taste of Maine in Woolrich is home to the world's largest inflatable lobster, and excellent giant lobster rolls to match (Credit: Getty Images)Getty Images

Taste of Maine in Woolrich is home to the world’s largest inflatable lobster, and excellent giant lobster rolls to match (Credit: Getty Images)

 4. The best big roll: Taste of Maine, Woolrich

While those with big appetites might also consider buying their roll earlier in the season, there’s a reason to buy in the high season. “In July, you’ll start catching more and more ‘shedders’ and less hardshell lobster. After they bury themselves in the mud and moult (males once a year and females every two years) the lobster shell is softer,” says Thompson. “Some softshell shedders may have less meat, but they have a sweeter flavour and [to get to the meat] you can break them with your fingers like paper.” No lobster tools necessary and less messy too. “The colour is a nice bright orange. We call them pumpkins,” she adds. “The Taste of Maine serves softshell most of the summer. It’s fresh, amazing and packed with meat.”

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This family-run restaurant, founded in 1978 and filled with nautical antiques does everything bigger, with live music and comedy, and of course, beautiful water views.

Alamy McLoons Lobster Shack on Spruce Head Island serves two kinds of lobster rolls so you can see which one is your favourite (Credit: Alamy)Alamy

McLoons Lobster Shack on Spruce Head Island serves two kinds of lobster rolls so you can see which one is your favourite (Credit: Alamy)

5. The best of the islands: McLoons Lobster Shack, South Thomaston

Also on the Mid-Coast, another family-owned lobster shack sits at the tip of one of Maine’s prettiest peninsulas on Spruce Head Island. “I love to see lobster shacks when I’m travelling. Most are family-owned-and-operated, and it’s nice to see people supporting local fishermen,” says Thompson.

McLoons belongs to Bree Birns, whose family owns and operates the bustling wharf where lobstermen deliver their catches to one of Maine’s long-standing fishing co-ops. The shack itself is an old lobster storage shed now serving up two rolls: a traditional quarter pounder and the double-sized Rolls Royce (with butter, mayo or both) and plenty of claws – the most tender, flavourful part, says Thompson. “Double the lobster fresh off the boat from another female lobsterman? What’s not to love about that?”

Her recommendation: Take it all in with a side of coleslaw and chips from the outdoor table and chairs made from lobster traps. 

Getty Images For a true old-school lobster roll experience, head to South Freeport to Harraseeket Lunch & Lobster Company, one of the oldest in the state (Credit: Getty Images)Getty Images

For a true old-school lobster roll experience, head to South Freeport to Harraseeket Lunch & Lobster Company, one of the oldest in the state (Credit: Getty Images)

6. The best old-school joint: Harraseeket Lunch & Lobster Company, South Freeport

Located right by the boats at the town landing in South Freeport, Harraseeket Lunch & Lobster Company is another landmark mom-and-pop waterfront shack that has been serving locally sourced lobster since 1970. The small dine-in-dine-out shack with a lobster pound is one of the longest-serving lobster shacks in the state.

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“It looks like a hole in the wall but looks can be deceiving. The lobster roll is delicious – and one of the few left that still comes with fries,” says Thompson. With indoor or outdoor dining over harbour views, a lobster pound and the state’s celebrated homemade whoopie pies for dessert, this is classic Maine.

Website: harraseeketlunchandlobster.com

Address: 36 Main Street, South Freeport

Phone: 207-865-3535

BBC TravelThe SpeciaList is a series of guides to popular and emerging destinations around the world, as seen through the eyes of local experts and tastemakers.

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Maine

Maine Democratic Party leader won’t seek reelection

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Maine Democratic Party leader won’t seek reelection


Maine Democratic Party leader won’t seek reelection

Bev Uhlenhake Maine Democratic Party

The chair of the Maine Democratic Party announced Thursday she won’t seek reelection when members select leaders later this month.

Bev Uhlenhake, a former city councilor and mayor in Brewer and former chair of the Penobscot County Democrats, has served as chair of the state party since January 2023. She is also a previous vice chair of the party.

In a written statement, Uhlenhake noted some of the recent successes and challenges facing Democrats, including the reelection of Democratic majorities in both the Maine House and Senate last November, though by narrower margins, and winning three of Maine’s four electoral votes for Vice President Kamala Harris.

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“While we have laid a solid foundation from which Maine Democrats can build toward even greater success in 2026 and beyond, I have decided to step away from Maine Democratic Party leadership for personal and professional reasons, and will not seek reelection,” Uhlenhake said.

Party Vice Chair Julian Rogers, who was also elected to his post in 2023, announced he also won’t seek reelection to leadership, but will resume a previous role he held as vice chair of the party’s committee on Diversity, Equity, Inclusion & Belonging.

Democratic State Committee members will vote for the party’s next leaders in elections to be held on Sunday, Jan. 26.

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Maine

Shenna Bellows sworn in for third term as Maine Secretary of State

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Shenna Bellows sworn in for third term as Maine Secretary of State


AUGUSTA, Maine — Secretary of State Shenna Bellows was sworn into office for her third term Wednesday.  Governor Janet Mills conducted the formal swearing-in of all the constitutional officers, which includes Bellows, State Treasurer Joseph Perry, Attorney General Aaron Frey and State Auditor Matthew Dunlap. In her remarks following the swearing-in, Bellows shared a message of transparency and accessibility in continuing to serve the people of Maine. “It is incumbent upon us as elected officials to make government work for the people of Maine,” Bellows said. “We must reduce bureaucracy, improve efficiency, modernize our systems, and above all, bring people together in community to make life better for the people of Maine.”

The Department of the Secretary of State includes three bureaus: The Maine State Archives, the Bureau of Motor Vehicles and the Bureau of Corporations, Elections and Commissions.

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Bellows emphasized her commitment to ensuring free, safe, and secure elections, modernizing government services, and preserving Maine’s history through the State Archives. She highlighted the importance of standing up for the rule of law and democracy, referring to the legacy of Civil War General Joshua Chamberlain and referencing the events at the U.S. Capitol on January 6, 2021. “This is our Chamberlain moment. We must stand up for the rule of law and do the right thing even when it is hard. As your Secretary of State, I pledge to always ensure that we have free, safe and secure elections and that we adhere to the Constitution and the rule of law in every aspect of everything that we do,” said Bellows. Bellows, Maine’s 50th Secretary of State, previously served two terms in the Maine Senate from 2016-2020 and was the executive director of the Holocaust and Human Rights Center of Maine before her election in 2021.



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Maine

An endangered rabbit species is on the rise in parts of Maine

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An endangered rabbit can be found in seven towns in Maine, two more than just six years ago, and the number of colonies has more than doubled to 46 known sites in that time, according to the state’s small mammal biologist.

The native New England cottontail rabbit, which is on the Endangered Species list, is found in southern Maine, but its non-native invasive species cousin the Eastern cottontail is rapidly gaining ground, said Cory Stearns, small mammal biologist.

The two species eat similar foods, the main difference being where they live. Easterns will live closer to people under decks or porches or other human structures and are less timid about open space. That allows them to proliferate in areas where the native species won’t because they prefer to hide in bushes and thickets.

The concern is that the Easterns will dominate, making it harder for the New Englands to rebound, Stearns said. Because of that and the state’s ongoing research and monitoring program, biologists are asking Maine residents to report any sightings of the two species of rabbits.

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It’s difficult to tell them apart, but often the Eastern cottontail will have a white spot on its forehead. It also has bigger eyes that give them more side vision, he said.

It’s much easier to tell them apart from snowshoe hares in the winter. Snowshoes turn white, allowing them to hide in plain sight on the snow, while rabbits are brown year-round, Stearns said.

The New England cottontail saw its highest numbers in the 1960s when there were a lot of abandoned farms that provided thickets for hiding places. As the forest grew up and matured around those areas, the bushes and hidey-holes disappeared.

It now can be found in Cape Elizabeth, York, Wells, Scarborough, Kittery, Eliot and Kennebunk.

The low point was in 2018, when there were only 21 sites populated by the New England rabbits. The Easterns were first spotted in Maine in 2017 in Portland, Old Orchard Beach, the Berwicks and Wells.

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The scientists collect rabbit feces, called pellets, for genetic testing to determine which species is inhabiting a space. They also can figure out how many individuals are in a colony.

If you want to help out by reporting a rabbit sighting, fill in this form on the Maine Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife website.



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