Visitors to New Hampshire have a lot of destinations to choose from, with some of the better-known areas being the Lakes Region, the White Mountains and the Seacoast Region. But one of the most interesting parts of the state doesn’t get nearly as much press, and it really doesn’t have a specific name. The part of southwest New Hampshire tucked away by the Massachusetts and Vermont borders is often called the Monadnock region (from the rather imposing mountain by the same name in Jaffrey) while some also call it “Currier & Ives Country,” which can lead to confusion because there’s also an official Currier & Ives Scenic Byway in another part of the state.
While not commonly used, the Currier & Ives label certainly does apply to this area, which includes picture-perfect New England villages, scenic winding roads, rolling hills and countless lakes, ponds, rivers and streams. It makes for a perfect setting for road trips, and a number of old-fashioned roadside restaurants seemingly pop up out of nowhere on many drives, feeding hungry travelers and locals alike.
One such place sits just outside a tiny village near the Massachusetts border, and while it’s little more than an hour from the Greater Boston area, Emma’s 321 Pub & Kitchen is a place that feels far, far away, reflecting the rustic quality and slow pace of this little pocket of New Hampshire.
Rindge is a rugged, deeply wooded town that lies in the shadow of Mount Watatic, a nearly 2,000-foot peak just to the east in Ashburnham and Ashby, Massachusetts. It’s also a short distance south of the aforementioned Mount Monadnock, which rises well over 3,000 feet, towering over the surrounding landscape. Rindge itself is one of the higher communities in the state and feels like an outback town of sorts, with its blink-and-you-miss-it village center off Route 119 that doesn’t have so much as a restaurant or a general store.
A few businesses can be found near where Routes 119 and 202 meet, however, including Emma’s, which is just north of the intersection and just south of the beautiful Pool Pond, with spectacular views of Mount Monadnock and its summer homes and cabins. Emma’s itself has the look of a cabin (albeit a large one), with its weathered wooden exterior, warm and welcoming outdoor lights, multiple chimneys and stacks of firewood, all shaded by massive trees that surround the place.
The cozy country look of Emma’s’ exterior is just a taste of things to come, as its interior is a bit similar to the better-known colonial-style restaurants found throughout New England. But unlike some of those which tend to be a tad on the upscale side, this restaurant is definitely more casual, low-key and family-friendly. Several rooms make up the place and all have a lot of charm, include a large dining area to the right which extends back with views of the woods, a charming bar in the middle, another dining area through a doorway to the left and, beyond that, a room that has the look of a fully enclosed four-season porch, sitting high above the land below.
Wagon wheel lights, checkered tablecloths, old-fashioned sconces, rough-hewn wood and windows that give a glimpse of rural New England just out back all give Emma’s a look and feel of yesteryear, and really make you think you’re much farther away from the urban canyons of Boston than you really are.
PHOTOS: Roadside dining in rural NH at Emma’s 321 Pub & Kitchen
Even before you look at the menu at Emma’s, you’ll probably get an idea of what it has to offer simply based on the overall look of the place, and the offerings are indeed familiar and will probably not come as a surprise to anyone.
Classic comfort food and regional faves are the name of the game here, with highlights being a hearty bowl of chili with just a bit of heat; a Caesar salad with a house-made dressing and parmesan crisps; loaded potato skins with bacon (or chili) and cheese, scallions, sour cream and salsa; greasy and crunchy fried pickle chips that come with a spicy aioli; quesadillas with bacon, diced chicken and lots of cheese; extra crunchy deep-fried mozzarella sticks with a dusting of parm along with marinara and ranch on the side; chicken marsala in a rich wine sauce and served over a bed of linguini; a large plate of eggplant or chicken parmigiana with plenty of sauce and mozzarella; a decadent bacon-wrapped meatloaf with plenty of brown gravy; the ever-popular “build your own” burger with such topping options as onion strings, blue cheese, bacon jam and mushrooms; a classic turkey club with lettuce, tomato, bacon and mayo; and an old-school turkey melt that includes a couple of hefty pieces of sourdough.
New Hampshire doesn’t get the credit it deserves when it comes to its breweries, but there are some very good ones out there and Emma’s indeed serves up some options from beermakers across the state. The offerings are always changing, but depending on when you go, you might find beers from Spyglass, Stoneface, Northwoods and Great North, to name a few.
Cocktails are very popular here, particularly the margaritas, martinis, mimosas, mojitos and rum punches, and a variety of their own concoctions that range from fruity drinks in the summer to drinks that will warm you up in the late fall and winter can be had as well.
Long ago, New Hampshire had a lot of rustic old restaurants like Emma’s 321 Pub & Kitchen, but many of them are gone now, including such iconic spots as the Longhorn Palace near Franconia Notch in Lincoln, a cafeteria-style steakhouse that was legendary back in the day and had a similar vibe. The loss of such places makes Emma’s all the more important these days, as it harkens back to the days of unpretentious roadside family restaurants focusing on service, value and food that’s good for the soul.
The southwestern part of New Hampshire is a wonderful area to visit whether for hiking, paddling, snowmobiling or simply enjoying the rural scenery from behind the wheel, and Emma’s is easily one of the most interesting options for dining in the entire region.
Emma’s 321 Pub & Kitchen, 377 US-202, Rindge, NH, 03461. facebook.com/Emmas321
