Lifestyle
The magical California state park that doesn't allow visitors
About 60 miles north of Sacramento, the Sutter Buttes rise starkly from the floor of the Central Valley, the remnants of a volcano active more than 1.4 million years ago. Their cathedral-like spires twist upward, some reaching more than 2,000 feet into the sky — an imposing circular formation, 10 miles in diameter, that’s been called “the smallest mountain range in the world.”
Sheltered within these lava domes is an oasis of rolling hills, rich with wildflowers and Native American artifacts, and watched over by hawks and countless other species of birds.
Bitter debates over the lack of public access to the Sutter Buttes have roiled for years. But most everyone on both sides agrees on this: They encompass some of the most magical and otherworldly terrain in California. Long sacred to Native American tribes, the formation is now home mainly to cattle that chomp grass behind stone walls built by Chinese laborers more than a century ago, oblivious to the fact that some people want to throw open the gates and some want to keep them locked forever.
For the last two decades, the Sutter Buttes have also been home to a California state park that almost no one is allowed to visit.
For the record:
7:30 a.m. May 20, 2024An earlier version of this article misspelled the last name of the famed landscape architect who helped establish the National Park Service as Frederick Law Olmstead Jr. His last name is spelled Olmsted.
In 2003, the state of California spent about $3 million to buy 1,800 acres on the north side of the buttes, including an idyllic stretch of emerald called “Peace Valley.” The government has eyed a park in this ruggedly beautiful landscape since the inception of the state parks system in the 1920s. Frederick Law Olmsted Jr., the famed landscape architect who helped establish the National Park Service and also surveyed potential parkland for California in those early years, put it on a state park wish list, along with such gems as Point Lobos on the Monterey County coast and Donner Lake in Northern California.
In 2005, the state finally achieved its goal — sort of. The State Park and Recreation Commission officially declared its 1,785 acres a park. The property has its own state-sponsored webpage and a budget for conservation and maintenance.
What it does not have is any way for the public to get in.
“Please note: There is currently no public access point to enter this park,” reads a notice in big red letters at the top of the webpage.
Beneath that are breathtaking photos: sunlight glinting off a placid lake; a dirt road leading up a verdant hill; a haunting photo of the buttes at sunset — from a distance.
That last image — the one from a distance — is the only way most people can view the park.
Most of the land in the Sutter Buttes is held by a handful of families, some with holdings dating to the 19th century, who use the fields to graze cattle and sheep.
(Brian Baer / California State Parks)
The issue, according to current and former parks officials, is that all the roads leading into the Sutter Buttes are privately owned. And none of the landowners — some of whom have had title to the land since before California entered the union — will give the state permission to use those roads for park visitors. Nor has the state found anyone willing to sell them property near a public road that could be used to access the park.
With the impasse in its 20th year, state officials instead allow a few people into the park on occasion for carefully guided visits.
State parks officials were not available for an interview to discuss the situation, but said in a statement that the department “continues to look for opportunities to either secure land or easements to provide access.” So far, nothing has come up.
Many locals say the current status — an empty state park — suits them just fine. The Sutter Buttes are a precious ecosystem, they say, filled with delicate tribal artifacts and threatened species. It isn’t the same, they argue, as a state park in the immense Sierra Nevada or vast inland deserts or along the glittering coast.
“This little blob in the middle of the Sacramento Valley is so sensitive to encroachment,” said Marty Steidlmayer, 59, whose family has owned land in the Sutter Buttes since the 1930s. A state park, he said, would “let people in, free and unattended,” which could lead to vandalism, fires and degradation. “It’s not a good idea,” he said.
Sutter County Supervisor Mat Conant agreed. “It is more important to protect those land rights,” he said, noting that “some families have held that land for close to 200 years.”
Francis Coats is one of the few local landowners who think the state needs to find a way to let in the public.
“It’s absolutely beyond me why it’s not open,” said Coats, whose family has been in the area since the 19th century. Coats said he owns a small interest in 160 acres on the north side of South Butte, and so strong is the antipathy toward access that he faced death threats when he first tried to visit his own parcel.
Debates over the lack of public access to the Sutter Buttes have roiled for years. But both sides agree the buttes encompass some of the most magical terrain in California.
(Brian Baer / California State Parks)
The Sutter Buttes, though little heralded in modern-day California, have played an outsize role in the state’s history.
The Maidu people took refuge there for thousands of years during periods when the Sacramento Valley flooded. They believed it was a resting point for spirits on their journey to the afterlife.
In the 1840s, Kit Carson and Gen. John C. Fremont, fresh from their savage massacres of Native Americans in the north state, hid out in the buttes and plotted to seize California from Mexico. Then they headed to Sonoma County to lend support to the Bear Flag Revolt of 1846. Their Republic of California was short-lived, but helped stoke the Mexican-American War, which paved the way for California to join the United States.
When state officials first proposed a park in the Sutter Buttes in the 1920s, local newspapers took the opportunity to celebrate this history.
“These rugged hills hold a prized place in the hearts of Californians,” the Sacramento Union wrote in 1931. “They are indelibly linked with the romance of the state’s secession from Mexican rule.”
The park didn’t come to fruition then, and the Depression and World War II created other priorities.
The state tried again in the 1970s, putting money in a parks bond to fund the purchase of tens of thousands of acres in the Sutter Buttes. Local landowners were horrified, and the county Board of Supervisors voted in opposition. “We’ll fight them, right down the line,” Supervisor J.A. Bagley told the local newspaper.
The state backed down. But within the parks department, some never dropped the dream.
The department’s chief of land acquisition, Warren Westrup, knew how to play a long game. Westrup, who worked for the state for 37 years, figured out how to put together parcels of land, piece by piece, until a vision came to fruition.
He did it in the Santa Monica Mountains, where state officials devised ways to purchase land for a trail that connects communities from Los Angeles to Malibu; and in Chino Hills, buying one canyon after another until eventually a whole park came to fruition.
In 2003, Westrup heard through an intermediary that someone with land in the buttes was looking to sell. He arranged for its purchase, even though he was aware the property was surrounded by private land blocked by private gates and accessible only via a private road.
Parks officials moved forward to establish the park with the notion that they eventually could persuade someone else to sell them land adjacent to a public road, where they could build a parking lot, bathrooms and maybe a few tents for people to camp.
The problem: No one would sell.
Government officials have pursued a park in the Sutter Buttes since the inception of the state parks system in the 1920s.
(Brian Baer / California State Parks)
Most of the land in the buttes is held by a small number of legacy families who primarily use the fields for grazing cattle and sheep. No one lives in the interior, although there are a few homes on the outside.
After the state pushed for a park in the 1970s, some landowners feared the government might take their property. To stave that off, they began providing guided tours that granted limited access to the public and also to researchers. Local schoolchildren were also invited in.
They hired a manager, who moved into a cabin for the job, along with his wife, their golden retriever and their cat. They fell in love with the quiet grandeur of the area — all except for the cat, who was snatched by an eagle and never seen again.
“Some places just attract us more powerfully than others,” Walt Anderson, the manager, explained in a 2006 oral history. “I mean, everybody loves the profile of the buttes when they pass it, but once they get inside, I mean, they’re hooked.”
Steidlmayer, who owns land adjacent to the state park, said officials have told him “that the state will buy anything that we would be willing to sell. But that is the last thing my family would ever do.”
Even some outdoor enthusiasts have reservations about opening the park.
Lisa Lindman, executive director of the Sutter Buttes Regional Land Trust, said she has come to view the issue as “really complicated.”
She wants the public to be able to appreciate the peace and beauty of the buttes, but echoed landowners’ concerns about the delicate ecosystem and centuries-old Native American artifacts that remain largely untouched.
In lieu of full public access, Middle Mountain Interpretive Hikes, a sister organization to Lindman’s land trust, leads private tours for small groups of people who pay about $35 apiece for a carefully supervised hike. Reservations can be hard to come by. The Middle Mountain hikes do not enter the state parkland. Instead, they traverse private land near the park under a long-standing agreement with landowners that grew out of those early tours from the 1970s.
On a recent spring day, a tour group wound up dirt roads and through locked gates in a small caravan of cars, before parking near the center of the range. Volcanic domes rose above a green meadow. Wind rustled through the grass. A flock of snow geese passed overhead, their silver wings gleaming against a blue sky.
From atop the lava domes, it was possible to see Mt. Lassen and Mt. Shasta. The snow-capped Sierra stood to the east. After a precarious scramble down, group members traversed the grassy base of the domes and came to the edge of the state park at Peace Valley. A guide warned the tour group they did not have permission to enter.
Ruth Coleman, who was head of the Department of Parks and Recreation when the site was designated a state park, said she hopes California will keep pushing to find a way to change that, while putting measures in place to preserve the land.
“It’s classified as a state park. And a state park has access,” Coleman said, adding: “I’ve been there. … It’s magic.”
Lifestyle
MLK concert held annually at the Kennedy Center for 23 years is relocating
Natalie Cole and music producer Nolan Williams, Jr. with the Let Freedom Ring Celebration Choir at the Kennedy Center in January 2015.
Lisa Helfert/Georgetown University
hide caption
toggle caption
Lisa Helfert/Georgetown University
Let Freedom Ring, an annual concert in Washington, D.C., celebrating the life of Martin Luther King Jr., has been a signature event at the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts for more than 20 years. Aretha Franklin, Gladys Knight and Chaka Khan have performed, backed by a choir made up of singers from D.C. area churches and from Georgetown University, which produces the event.
But this year’s event, headlined by actor and rapper Common, will not be held at the Kennedy Center.
Georgetown University says it is moving Let Freedom Ring to D.C.’s historic Howard Theatre in order to save money.
For Marc Bamuthi, it wouldn’t make sense to hold it at the Kennedy Center this year.

Until March 2025, Bamuthi was the Kennedy Center’s artistic director for social impact, a division that created programs for underserved communities in the D.C. region. He regularly spoke at the MLK Day event. “I would much rather that we all be spared the hypocrisy of celebrating a man who not only fought for justice, but who articulated the case for equity maybe better than anyone in American history … when the official position of this administration is an anti-equity position,” he said.
President Trump has criticized past programming at the Kennedy Center as “woke” and issued executive orders calling for an end to diversity in cultural programming.
In February 2025, Trump took over the Kennedy Center and appointed new leadership. Shortly thereafter the social media division was dissolved. Bamuthi and his team were laid off.
Composer Nolan Williams Jr., Let Freedom Ring‘s music producer since 2003, also says he has no regrets that the event is moving.

“You celebrate the time that was and the impact that has been and can never be erased. And then you move forward to the next thing,” said Williams.
This year, Williams wrote a piece for the event called “Just Like Selma,” inspired by one of King’s most famous quotes, “The arc of the moral universe is long, but it bends towards justice.”
Williams says sometimes the quote is “interpreted in a passive way.”
“The arc doesn’t just happen to move. We have to be agents of change. We have to be active arc movers, arc benders,” said Williams. “And so throughout the song you hear these action words like ‘protest,’ ‘resist,’ ‘endure,’ ‘agitate,’ ‘fight hate.’ And those are all the action words that remind us of the responsibility that we have to be arc benders.”
YouTube
The Kennedy Center announced Tuesday that its celebration of Martin Luther King Jr. next week will feature the Missionary Kings of Harmony of The United House of Prayer for All People’s Anacostia congregation.
The audio and digital versions of this story were edited by Jennifer Vanasco.

Lifestyle
Disneyland is pivoting on ‘Star Wars’ Land. Here’s why.
Disneyland’s Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge is turning back the clock.
In a shift from its original ambitions, the land will no longer be primarily set in the time period of the recent “Star Wars” sequels. That means modern villain Kylo Ren will be out, at least as a walk-around character, while so-called “classic” characters such as Darth Vader, Luke Skywalker, Han Solo and Princess Leia Organa will make their way into the fictional galactic town of Black Spire Outpost.
The changes, for now, are specific to Disneyland and are not currently planned to come to Walt Disney World’s version of the land, according to Disney. They also mark a significant tweak from the intent of the land, which was designed as an active, play-focused area that broke free from traditional theme park trappings — character meet and greets, passive rides and Mickey-shaped balloons. Instead of music, guests heard radio broadcasts and chatter, as the goal was to make Black Spire Outpost feel rugged and lived-in.
-
Share via
It was to be a place of living theater, where events unfolded in real time. That tone will now shift, as while the in-land radio station won’t go away, Disneyland will soon broadcast composer John Williams’ “Star Wars” orchestrations throughout the area. The changes are set to fully take effect April 29, although Disney has stated some tweaks may roll out earlier.
The character of Rey, introduced in “Star Wars: The Force Awakens,” will still appear in the land, although she’ll now be relegated to the forest-like area near the attraction Star Wars: Rise of the Resistance. While the latter is due for refurbishment beginning Jan. 20, park representatives said it’s routine maintenance and no changes are planned for the land’s showcase ride, which will still feature Kylo Ren and the First Order.
Guests will also soon be able to find the Kylo Ren character at a meet and greet in Tomorrowland. Other personalities previously introduced to Galaxy’s Edge, including Chewbacca, Ahsoka Tano, the Mandolorian, Grogu and droid R2-D2, will still be featured in the land.
Taken as a whole, the moves turn Galaxy’s Edge into something more akin to a “Star Wars” greatest hits land. When the area opened in 2019, the hope was guests would feel as if they were protagonists able to choose their own adventure. Galaxy’s Edge came with its own vernacular, and an elaborate game in the Play Disney mobile app that was designed to track a guest’s reputation and be used in the land. It was once said, for instance, that Disney’s cast members — staff, in park parlance — would be able to recognize if someone’s personality leaned resistance, First Order or rogue. Such aspirations never materialized.
When Galaxy’s Edge opened in 2019, it was designed to feel rugged and lived-in.
(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)
Galaxy’s Edge was a theme park experiment, asking how deeply guests would want to engage in physical spaces. But it came with challenges, namely that as these lands evolve to feel more like locations where action is unfolding in real time, the level of activity needed to maintain the illusion increases. And Galaxy’s Edge forever lacked some of its teased and hyped elements — there were no smugglers, for instance, tapping you on the shoulder in the cantina. When a land is designed to speak to us, we notice when it’s quiet.
Theme parks are also evolving spaces, responding to shifts in creative direction as well as guest feedback. In an online press conference announcing the move, Disney didn’t allow for deep questioning, but a reworking of the land to incorporate the franchise’s classic (and arguably more popular) characters feels in some part an acknowledgment that theme park visitors likely crave familiarity over ongoing narratives designed to play make-believe. Or at least that such a direction is easier to maintain.
“Since the very inception of Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge, we really always imagined it as a platform for storytelling,” said Asa Kalama, a creative executive with Walt Disney Imagineering, the company’s arm devoted to theme park experiences, at the media briefing. “That’s part of the reason we designed this neutral Wild West space town because it allowed it to be a framework in which we could project different stories.”
Galaxy’s Edge on April 29 is dropping its fixed timeline and will soon incorporate more characters, including Darth Vader.
(Christian Thompson / Disneyland Resort)
Kalama pointed to next year being the 50th anniversary of the initial “Star Wars” movie and this May’s theatrical film, “The Mandalorian & Grogu,” as to why this was the opportune time to shift the direction of the land. To coincide with the release of the latter, the attraction Millennium Falcon: Smugglers Run will receive a new mission May 22, which will also mean the land’s two rides will soon be set in different “Star Wars” time frames.
The ride makeover will feature three new locations from the “Star Wars” films — planets such as the urban Coruscant or gas realm of Bespin, as well as the wreckage of the second Death Star near Endor. Each flight crew will determine the destination. Additionally, those seated in the ride’s “engineer” positions will be able to communicate with Grogu, colloquially referred to as “baby Yoda.”
Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge was meticulously designed to be set between episodes eight and nine of the core saga, with its ships modeled after the most recent films. When guests encountered characters, for instance, they would speak to them as if they were visitors on the fictional planet, often trying to suss out someone’s allegiance. It was indicated by Michael Serna, executive creative director with Disney Live Entertainment, that such a level of playfulness would continue.
Darth Vader, for instance, is said to be on the planet of Batuu seeking to hunt Luke Skywalker. Luke, for his part, is described as roaming the land looking for Force artifacts, while Leia and Han will be spotted in areas near the Millennium Falcon and Oga’s Cantina, the latter tempting Han while Leia will serve the role of a recruiter. Timelines for the land’s bar and shops will also be dialed back to better reflect the the classic characters, although “Star Wars” die-hards maybe shouldn’t think too hard about it as an animatronic figure such as Oga’s robotic DJ “Rex” is best known for a different role during that era.
The character of Rey, introduced in “Star Wars: The Force Awakens,” will still meet with guests in Galaxy’s Edge, although she will be stationed near the ride Star Rise: Rise of the Resistance.
(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)
Galaxy’s Edge had been moving in a more populist direction for some time. The reframing of the ride Smugglers Run was the first major indication that Disney would pivot from the land’s initial design intent. Luke, meanwhile, was introduced to the land for limited appearances in 2025, and that character followed the arrival of the Mandalorian and Grogu. And the lack of Williams’ score in the land has long been a common guest complaint. The film’s “Main Title,” as well as “Han Solo and the Princess,” “The Desert and the Robot Auction,” “The Emperor” and other Williams selections will now be heard in the land.
While the vibe and tenor of Galaxy’s Edge will shift, Serna stressed it’s still designed as a place for guest participation. “It’s still an active, living land, if you will,” he said.
And if Galaxy’s Edge is now a mesh of timelines and characters, that simply makes it more in-line with what already exists at the resort. To put it another way: No one has been confused that New Orleans Square has ghosts and pirates next to a cozy place for beignets. Likewise, we don’t wonder why “Cars” character Doc Hudson is dead in the current timeline of the films but alive on the ride — and then memorialized via an ofrenda during the land’s Halloween makeover.
Theme parks remain a place where imagination reigns.
Lifestyle
Keep an eye out for these new books from big names in January
The Ides of January are already upon us. Which means that by now, most of the sweetly misguided pollyannas who made New Year’s resolutions have already given up on that nonsense. Don’t beat yourself up about it! Travel and exercise would only have hogged your precious reading time anyway.
And boy, is there a lot of good stuff to read already. This week alone, a reader with an active imagination may pay visits to Norway and Chile, China and Pakistan. Later this month brings new releases from big names on either side of the Atlantic Ocean.
(By the way, this year the Book Ahead is transitioning from weekly posts to monthly, for a broader lens on the publishing calendar.)
The School of Night, by Karl Ove Knausgaard, translated by Martin Aitken (Jan. 13)
Knausgaard is an alchemist. The prolific Norwegian consistently crafts page-turners out of the daily drudgery you’d usually find sedative rather than thrilling. The same inexplicable magic permeates his latest series, which began with The Morning Star and here gets its fourth installment. Only, unlike projects such as his autofictional My Struggle, Knausgaard here weaves his interlinked plots with actual magic – or supernatural horror, at least, as a vaguely apocalyptic event loosens the tenacious grip of his characters’ daily cares. The School of Night features Kristian Hadeland, an eerie figure in previous books, whose faustian bargain promises to illuminate this mystery’s darkest corners.
This Is Where the Serpent Lives, by Daniyal Mueenuddin (Jan. 13)
The setting in Mueenuddin’s debut novel — a modern Pakistan rife with corruption, feudalism and resilience — thrums with such vitality, it can feel like a character in its own right. But the home of this sweeping saga of class, violence and romance can also be seen as a “distorting mirror,” says Mueenuddin, whose short stories have earned him nods for the Pulitzer Prize and National Book Award. “Without a doubt,” he told NPR’s Weekend Edition, “I’ll have failed miserably if readers don’t see in this a great deal of themselves and of their communities.”
Pedro the Vast, by Simón López Trujillo, translated by Robin Myers (Jan. 13)
It won’t take long to finish this hallucinatory vision of ecological disaster. Getting over Trujillo’s disquieting novella, however, is another matter. The eponymous Pedro is a eucalyptus farmer who has worked the dangerous, degrading job all his life, so it’s to be expected when he’s among the workers who pick up a bad cough from a deadly fungus lurking in the grove. Less expected is the fact that, unlike his colleagues, Pedro does not die but wakes up changed, in ways both startling and difficult to comprehend. This is the Chilean author’s first book to be translated into English.
Fly, Wild Swans: My Mother, Myself and China, by Jung Chang (Jan. 13)
Chang began this story more than 34 years ago, with Wild Swans, a memoir that viewed 20th century Chinese history through the prism of three generations of women — and remains banned in China still. Now, Jung picks up the story where she left off, in the late 1970s when Chang’s departure set her family’s story on heartbreakingly separate paths — her own, unfolding in the West, and that of the family she left behind in China. Jung applies a characteristically wide lens, with half an eye on how the past half-century of geopolitical tumult has upturned her own intimate relationships.
Crux, by Gabriel Tallent (Jan. 20)
It’s been the better part of a decade since Tallent published his debut novel, My Absolute Darling, a portrait of a barbed father-daughter relationship that NPR’s reviewer described as “devastating and powerful.“ In his follow-up, Tallent returns to that adolescent minefield we euphemistically call “coming of age,” this time focusing on a complicated bond between a pair of friends living in the rugged Mojave Desert. It’s an unlikely friendship, as sustaining as it is strained by their unforgiving circumstances, as the pair teeter precariously on the cusp of adulthood.
Departure(s), by Julian Barnes (Jan. 20)
The winner of the 2011 Booker Prize (and finalist for several more) returns with a slim book that’s a bit tough to label. You’ll find it on the fiction shelf, sure, but also, it’s narrated by an aging British writer named Julian who is coping with a blood cancer diagnosis. The lines aren’t easy to find or pin down in this hybrid reflection on love, memory and mortality, which is as playful in its form as its themes are weighty.
Half His Age, by Jennette McCurdy (Jan. 20)
“If I could have shown myself where I am now, I would not have believed it when I was little,” McCurdy told WBUR in 2023. The former child star certainly has undergone a dramatic transformation in recent years — from noted Nickelodeon alum to a writer whose best-selling memoir, I’m Glad My Mom Died, made a pretty compelling case why kid actors “should not be allowed to go anywhere near Hollywood.” Now she’s stepping into fiction, with a debut novel that features a provocative, at times puzzling, courtship and the same black humor that shot through her previous work.
Vigil, by George Saunders (Jan. 27)
One of America’s most inventive stylists returns with his first novel since the Booker Prize-winning Lincoln in the Bardo. It’s hard not to hear some echoes of A Christmas Carol in this one, which also finds a mean old magnate in need of some supernatural bedside attitude therapy. But don’t expect a smooth show from narrator Jill “Doll” Blaine, the comforting spirit assigned to dying oil baron K.J. Boone. For one thing, the unrepentant fossil fuel monger can expect more than just three visitors in this darkly funny portrait of a life ill-lived.
-
Montana4 days agoService door of Crans-Montana bar where 40 died in fire was locked from inside, owner says
-
Technology1 week agoPower bank feature creep is out of control
-
Delaware5 days agoMERR responds to dead humpback whale washed up near Bethany Beach
-
Dallas, TX6 days agoAnti-ICE protest outside Dallas City Hall follows deadly shooting in Minneapolis
-
Dallas, TX1 week agoDefensive coordinator candidates who could improve Cowboys’ brutal secondary in 2026
-
Virginia4 days agoVirginia Tech gains commitment from ACC transfer QB
-
Iowa1 week agoPat McAfee praises Audi Crooks, plays hype song for Iowa State star
-
Education1 week agoVideo: This Organizer Reclaims Counter Space