Lifestyle
At Tom Ford, the Power of a Perfect Suit
If you need to find the musician Harrison Patrick Smith in any room that he’s in, just look for the guy in the skinny black suit.
What the pinstripes are to the Yankees, a shrunken, chauffeur driver’s black suit is for Mr. Smith, 28, who performs as the Dare.
And so, on Wednesday evening in Paris, Mr. Smith sat at the Acne Studios fashion show wearing, what else? A reedy, single-breasted suit.
“They’re all slightly different,” he told me. I’ll take his word for it. The Acne suit he wore looked pretty much identical to every suit I’ve ever seen him in. Same slender cut. Same coal shade.
The first one, he said, was cobbled together at his local Goodwill in New York, but he now owns one by Gucci. Maybe, he hoped, Acne would let him keep this one. Mr. Smith said he could use a few more. He’s currently touring Europe, doing his sweaty one-man show.
What I thought was that he made a simple idea work. Years ago, he would have been just another guy in a suit, but men’s fashion has devolved, particularly for his baby-faced generation. Mr. Smith always sort of looks like he’s doing something subversive. Do I even need to point out that he was the only guy in the room wearing a suit?
The Dare though, would have looked less daring at the Tom Ford show an hour later. After all, there is no American label this side of Ralph Lauren for whom the suit has mattered more. Tom Brady, Jay-Z, David Beckham — if a man hovering around middle age made it to a best dressed list, a Tom Ford suit likely graced his shoulders. Mr. Ford has been a leading lobbyist for the meticulous suit since before Mr. Smith was born.
Last year, Haider Ackermann, a Colombian-born designer, was named the Tom Ford creative director. This was his first show for the label, and there was nothing to indicate that any of Mr. Ford’s hard-fought elegance had leaked out of the label.
Certainly, as I entered, sandwiched between what appeared to be two 50-something clients in glimmering tuxedos, I felt underdressed in my khakis and knit cardigan. All the more so when I spotted Mr. Ford in the front row wearing, of course, a double-breasted suit. Suited waiters ringed the room with martinis extended on silver trays — a signal, as I took it, that Mr. Ackermann intended to lead with tailoring. My dress-code inadequacy swelled.
That assumption was wrong. The first men’s looks were oil-slick sportswear: moto jackets with snap-button collars, cropped pebble-grain trousers and animal-skin boots tapering to a witchy pointed toe. I thought not of Mr. Brady, but Buzz Bissinger, the “Friday Night Lights” author whose fondness for uber-lux leather garments nearly sent him to financial ruin.
As Mr. Ackermann said backstage, Mr. Ford has always been “about suiting and red carpet, but there’s a daily life too, and I wanted to embrace that moment.” A very glossy daily life, perhaps.
But Mr. Ackermann did not hold fire on the tailoring for long. Eventually, the suits came. And kept coming.
A charcoal double-breasted suit, worn with a starchy microdot black-and-white shirt and a broad pinstripe suit peaking out beneath a belted trench were pure Patrick Bateman. No accident, as Mr. Ackermann said on a recent podcast that he had been thinking of “American Psycho,” that chronic touchstone for men’s fashion designers.
Backstage, he said he was also envisioning Mr. Ford and the authority that emanates from the founder in his firm-shouldered suits.
As the show flowed, Mr. Ackermann maintained the straight-backed architecture that makes Tom Ford suits a genuine benchmark for men, while redecorating the facade. Colors were bracing, and fits sat off the body just enough, while underpinnings aimed to startle traditionalists.
Though he smirked off the word backstage, there is still an aspirational glamour to these really excellent suits. But they were also charged with a “well, this is new” unconventionally that could draw in a new generation of clients that thumbed past suits previously.
Take the slouchy tweed number worn over a leather shirt, or the almost-tan double-breasted suit with roomy trousers that undulated as the model passed. Slouchy and roomy, it should be said, were not common adjectives during Mr. Ford’s time at the label. (Mr. Ackermann is yet another creative director whose best look may be his own. He took a bow in a capacious double-breasted model with the collar folded over in full self swaddle. Second-skin ease par excellence.)
Or consider the two suits — mint and robin’s egg blue — that were each paired with a fresh-as-driven-snow white shirt and white tie combo. Or the Aquafresh green sportcoat worn with sepia trousers, a lighter cigar-brown shirt and a black tie. (I can hear the ad now: Nine out of 10 leading fashion stylists endorse this look.)
Toward the end, a model in slicked-back hair arrived in a black-and-white dotted suit jacket with slightly contrasting black-on-black dotted trousers. I wish Mr. Smith had been there to see it. It might have convinced him to add a different sort of dark suit to his rotation.
Lifestyle
These fans have sung their way to the National Women’s Soccer League finals
The Washington Spirit and Gotham FC face off in the National Women’s Soccer League finals on Saturday in San Jose. Left: Marge Liguori and Nat Lazo cheer on Gotham FC. Right: The crowd cheers at the Washington Spirit’s semifinal match last weekend.
Luke Chávez/Hannah Foslien/Getty
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Luke Chávez/Hannah Foslien/Getty
As the National Women’s Soccer League finals kick off on Saturday in San Jose, Calif., fans of the Washington Spirit and Gotham FC are bringing more than jerseys and banners. They’re bringing an entire culture of singing and chanting that has become central to the league’s game-day experience.
For supporters of the Washington D.C. team, that energy has been building all season. The Spirit Squadron, one of the club’s major fan groups, has spent months preparing the repertoire they’ll unleash from the stands on Saturday.
“We have a chant just for when we score,” said Squadron president Meredith Bartley, of a raucous, snare drum-laced chant celebrating getting the ball into the back of the net. It’s set to the nursery song “The Animals Went in Two by Two.” There’s a chant (with the endearing refrain “You’re my favorite soccer team!”) for when fans are simply having a blast.
And there’s one rooted in local politics. “This season, we’ve started in the 51st minute a ‘Free D.C.’ chant,” Bartley said. The chant nods to the long-standing push for D.C. home rule and statehood, and grew out of heightened tensions earlier this year, when the Trump administration took control of the district’s police force and deployed National Guard troops to the city.
Borrowing from the global soccer canon
Spirit supporters also borrow from the global soccer canon. When the energy in the stadium dips, they’ll sometimes launch into a playful chant appropriated from English Premier League crowds. “Let’s pretend we scored a goal,” they repeat.
New York and New Jersey-based Gotham FC supporters — who will be cheering on the Spirit’s opponents in the championship match — have similarly embraced U.K. soccer songs. One in particular has become an anthem.
John Denver’s “Take Me Home, Country Roads,” famously sung by Manchester United fans at their stadium, Old Trafford, has taken on a new life in the tri-state area. In 2023, Gotham FC fans reworked the song into “Gotham Roads,” a tribute to the team and the region.
“To use ‘Country Roads’ was actually my idea,” said Marge Liguori, who leads Cloud 9, a big Gotham FC supporters group. “I do also happen to be a Manchester United fan. So I kind of borrowed that, but worked with other fans to adapt the lyrics.”
All in it together
For Liguori, the song resonates because it evokes a sense of home. “I think that’s what we find in our arena and in our community with our team,” she said.
This feeling of belonging is paramount to understanding why singing and chanting are such an integral part of sports events.
“Really, the team is more of just a metaphor for the community,” said Max Jack, an ethnomusicologist and anthropologist at Indiana University who has studied the intersection of sports and music. He said singing and chanting allow fans to go through the emotional journey that is a soccer game together.
“It creates a sense of stranger intimacy that is incredibly deep and fulfilling,” Jack said. “It offers something that most people won’t access in their day-to-day life.”
That intimacy extends beyond fan-to-fan relationships. Chants also help build bonds between supporters and the players they root for. After Gotham FC’s 2023 NWSL championship, fans serenaded defender Mandy Freeman as she approached the stands. Freeman wiped away tears as she hugged fans across the railings.
Those interactions — along with the fans’ overall enthusiasm — matter to the team, Jeff Greer, Gotham FC’s vice president of communications, told NPR. “When we hear them chanting, we know that they are at our backs pushing us to victory,” he said.
The Spirit feel the same way. Their home matches at Audi Field in Washington D.C. are known for their high-octane atmosphere. “Our players regularly credit ‘Rowdy Audi’ for being the 12th player on the field,” said Spirit director of communications Ben Kessler. “And a lot of that is because of how creative their chants and cheers are.”


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Senate Democrats are investigating the Kennedy Center for ‘cronyism, corruption’
Leadership of the Kennedy Center is being investigated by Democrats.
The John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts/KC1CT2746
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The John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts/KC1CT2746
The ranking Democrat on the U.S. Senate Committee on Environment and Public Works, which oversees public buildings, is investigating leadership at the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts for what he says are “millions in lost revenue, luxury spending, and preferential treatment for Trump allies.”
The committee’s ranking member Sen. Sheldon Whitehouse (D-R.I.) sent a letter outlining the claims to Kennedy Center president, Richard Grenell. Grenell denied the allegations in a letter that was posted to the Kennedy Center’s social media.
The Kennedy Center’s building is maintained by the federal government, though its programming and staff are supported by a combination of private and federal funds.
Whitehouse’s letter, plus documentation obtained by Democrats on the Senate committee, are posted on its website. The documents appear to show that non-arts groups are getting significant discounts on rental fees at the Kennedy Center. There is a copy of a contract with FIFA that shows the international soccer organization will not pay the usual $5 million in rental fees when it takes over the center for three weeks in order to announce next year’s World Cup draw, as first reported by The Washington Post.


Senate Democrats obtained copies of contracts given to Grenell’s friends and associates, worth tens of thousands of dollars.
In his letter to Grenell, Whitehouse said these and other actions show a “profound disregard” for leadership’s “fiduciary responsibility.”
Allegations of financial mismanagement come at a time of declining audiences, artist cancellations, layoffs and resignations at the Kennedy Center.
An analysis by The Washington Post found that ticket sales at the Kennedy Center have taken a nosedive; on average, 43% of tickets have not been sold since early September. On the same day as the Post‘s reporting, Grenell announced the center had raised “a record-breaking” $58 million from donors and sponsors in 30 days “with more on the horizon.”
In his response to Whitehouse, Grenell wrote that he is “concerned about your careless attacks on me and my team” and that the Senator’s letter is “filled with partisan attacks and false accusations.” Grenell denied Whitehouse’s claims and alleged financial mismanagement by the center’s previous leadership, including “a bloated staff” and “deferred maintenance” that “was quite literally making the building fall apart.” President Trump’s One Big Beautiful Bill Act includes $257 million for repairs, maintenance and restoration of the Kennedy Center.
Addressing the claim that FIFA will be using the center for free, instead of paying a $5 million rental fee to the Kennedy Center, Grenell said the international soccer organization has “given us several million dollars, in addition to paying all of the expenses for this event in lieu of a rental fee.…A simple rental fee would not have been enough to cover the magnitude of the event.”
Grenell has slammed previous Kennedy Center leadership a number of times. In this week’s letter to Whitehouse, he wrote that “for the first time in decades, we have a balanced budget at the Kennedy Center.” In May he told the Kennedy Center board the “deferred maintenance of the Kennedy Center is criminal.”

Former Kennedy Center president Deborah Rutter and board chair David Rubenstein rejected Grenell’s characterization of their work. Rutter wrote, “Perhaps those now in charge are facing significant financial gaps and are seeking to attribute them to past management.”
In a statement to NPR from May, Rubenstein said, “financial reports were reviewed and approved by the Kennedy Center’s audit committee and full board as well as a major accounting firm.” That audit committee included board members appointed by Trump during his first term, including U.S. Attorney General Pam Bondi. At the time, she was a special advisor to Trump and worked on his defense team during his Senate impeachment trial.
Whitehouse is requesting the Kennedy Center supply him with “documents and information about the Center’s financial management practices, expenditures, donors, and contracts under Grenell’s leadership by December 4, 2025.”
This story was edited by Jennifer Vanasco.
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