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At Santee Alley, come ready to shed rigid assumptions and play

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At Santee Alley, come ready to shed rigid assumptions and play

This story is part of Image’s March Outside issue, a celebration of the Los Angeles outdoors and the many lives to be lived under its unencumbered sky.

There are old family photos of house parties from the ’70s that I like to stare at, of my uncles looking suave posing in a living room like they’re at the club about to take over the dance floor. Today, I’m thinking of them and of the exaggerated lapels on their leisure suits, of unbuttoned shiny shirts showing hints of a sun-kissed chest, and of a baby blue suit worn with a relaxed brown polo tucked in. As I walk through the Cosmo Plaza Food Court at 935 Santee St., where I parked my car on the roof, I pass a group of young girls eyeing the cotton candy quinceañera dresses and a pair of tourists pointing to their next destination. It’s a warm Friday afternoon in Santee Alley and I’m searching for some menswear.

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“Se encuentra algo like this?” I ask store owner Pedro Ramirez of RJ Suits located on 1138 S. Santee Alley. We huddle around my phone as I show him images of Bad Bunny in the music video “NUEVAYoL” and Don Johnson in a pastel linen suit from an episode of “Miami Vice.” Ramirez looks up at his crowded inventory of electric, sequined imported ensembles and starts pulling suits down for me. Across the way, a salesperson calls out to pedestrians to come in to visit her shop. A man in a lowrider bike weaves through the crowd while another merchant blows bubbles to the delight of little kids.

Image March 2026 Santee Alley
Image March 2026 Santee Alley

Just a few weeks before, in January, federal immigration officers stood menacingly on the corner of Maple Avenue and 11th Street. No one was taken but the damage was done that day with vendors locking their doors to protect themselves. Compared to even last summer, it’s much quieter now, with fewer customers looking for bargains and crowding shoulder to shoulder. Yet the Alley persists in spite of all this. The 150 shops are a vital source of livelihood for many and an illustration of resilience. Santee Alley was born out of unconventionality with its makeshift stores designed to break retail rules. It is a place unlike any other in L.A., where customers can imagine sartorial possibilities that reflect back the uniqueness of our city’s inhabitants. Come ready to shed any rigid assumptions and play.

“This is very fancy,” Ramirez says as he shows me a soft, teal blazer covered with floral appliqués. Ramirez started selling in Santee Alley 25 years ago, when, he recalls, stores sold designer labels at cost and most merchants were Iranian not Latino. Now the alley has more of a swap meet feel, he says. I give the blazer a try.

Santee Alley, a.k.a. Los Callejones, may be nestled in the Fashion District but the place has its own DNA, unpretentious with its kaleidoscope of items to buy, from scented oils to lingerie to work uniforms. Santee came into existence in the mid-to-late 1970s for apparel businesses to sell their overstock items on the weekends. Now open 365 days, as the sign on Olympic Boulevard states, Santee Alley is our very own bazaar. Come with cash. Haggle if you want. Listen to the cumbia by young singer Estevie dedicated to the alley to get you prepped. “Barato pero me siento caro.” Yes. Cheap but leave feeling rich.

Image March 2026 Santee Alley
Image March 2026 Santee Alley
Image March 2026 Santee Alley
Image March 2026 Santee Alley

The first time I visited Santee Alley was 20 years ago when I moved to Los Angeles from the Bronx, New York. I didn’t have a sense of direction, always felt lost. Downtown was a labyrinth to me, but when I hit Santee Street and Olympic Boulevard, everything clicked into place. With its overly sensory stimulation and DIY retail spaces, Santee Alley reminded me of home. Reggaeton and banda music blared from the stores while I stocked up on the essentials: gold hoops, baseball hats and workwear to set me up in my new life. Throughout the years, Santee Alley has become a place for me to bring closer the family I left, a space where I can unabashedly experiment with my style through their selection of menswear.

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When I was in high school, hip-hop was my soundtrack. We didn’t have much money, so I “shopped” in my father’s closet. I wore his Fila blue sweater with the F logo prominent and all the guys at school wanted to cop it. Meanwhile, my father was wondering why his blazers were going missing. Back then, dressing in menswear made me feel safe. The oversize blazers conjured up armor for the streets, as in, we’re outside taking care of business. I want to go back to that feeling. At Sinai Blankets on 1219-B Santee Alley, I try on a couple of Dickies shorts in a khaki color, extra stiff, while making a mental note of the Ben Davis workwear jackets displayed on the walls.

Image March 2026 Santee Alley

When I see Paulina López-Velázquez co-owner of Mexican restaurant Guelaguetza, she tells me she shops at the Alley for her monthly party, I Love Micheladas. She gravitates toward “super banda” outfits, shiny shirts with floral prints worn over jorts. “The stuff that I wear is for men, and I just reinvent it and reimagine it,” she says. López-Velázquez moved to L.A. from Oaxaca 30 years ago, when she was 13. “Any space that makes me feel connected or at home or makes me feel like I belong, because this is my people, I love to be there. And Santee Alley is one of those places.”

The Alley may feel like a chaotic space, but it’s about tapping in to this emotional dance to evoke the familiar. A memory is unlocked in a pair of slouchy carpenter pants and delicate stacks of golden jewelry, and the longing for home is temporarily satiated.

I’m shopping alongside a young college student who says she drove in from the Bay Area not knowing what to expect on her first visit. She admires the range of ranchero wear and tells me she’s looking for something fun to wear to go dancing later in the week. We both eye the big belt buckles. There’s also a nice selection of long-sleeved, men’s guayabera shirts, imported from Mexico, that would look great over a flowy skirt, I suggest. Nearby, two girls try on cowboy hats available in vibrant hues. In this moment, I can’t imagine a narrative where Santee Alley ceases to exist. Recent raids may try to instill fear, but this special communal space feels impervious to such weak displays. To lose it would mean to vanish a snapshot of what makes this city glorious.

Image March 2026 Santee Alley
Image March 2026 Santee Alley

Heading back toward Olympic, I enter David Apparel on 1019 Santee St. The menswear collection here is sporty with Gucci-esque matching outfits and dressy shirts emblazoned with lions. The last purchase I bought there was a tracksuit with green, red and blue stripes on the sides. Whenever I wear it I feel like Colin Farrell in the movie “The Gentlemen.” In the far corner of the store, a father with his son negotiates a price for a button-up while the song “Te Boté” by Ozuna plays loudly from a hidden speaker.

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Baby, la vida e’ un ciclo.” Bad Bunny raps his verse on the song reminding me of how life is a circle. I’m told linen suits will be coming in soon in the pastel colors I’m looking for. I pull a brown polo shirt from an overstuffed rack and press it against me. I check myself out in the mirror and wonder, would the uncles approve?

Image March 2026 Santee Alley

Lilliam Rivera is an award-winning author of fiction.

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With ‘Big Mistakes,’ Dan Levy returns to TV with a crime comedy : Pop Culture Happy Hour

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With ‘Big Mistakes,’ Dan Levy returns to TV with a crime comedy : Pop Culture Happy Hour

Dan Levy in Big Mistakes.

Spencer Pazer/Netflix


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Spencer Pazer/Netflix

Dan Levy co-created and starred in the beloved Schitt’s Creek. And now he’s back with a new comedy on Netflix that’s got a very different vibe. In Big Mistakes, Levy and Taylor Ortega play dysfunctional siblings who get drawn deeper and deeper into the world of organized crime, even as their mom – the great Laurie Metcalf – runs for public office.

Subscribe to Pop Culture Happy Hour Plus at plus.npr.org/happyhour

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In a new monument for South-Central, Lauren Halsey cements her loved ones as landmarks

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In a new monument for South-Central, Lauren Halsey cements her loved ones as landmarks

Someone said heaven is on the corner of 76th and Western.

It’s nearly 90 degrees on a Saturday in South-Central and sister dreamer lauren halsey’s architectural ode to tha surge n splurge of south central los angeles” is gleaming and activated.

Thousands of people fill the streets that surround it in lit, ecstatic union. Parliament-Funkadelic is playing a live show onstage while we stomp the pavement in faithful entrancement. The line forming for fittingly swaggy merch becomes a site for sweet reunions unfolding one after another — some version of “this is crazy, this is amazing, this is L.A.” being thrown back and forth on a loop. On the sidewalk, generations play spades in the shade and the joyful screams of children emanate from a custom bouncy house adorned with an Egyptian pharaoh bust. Across the way, skateboarders do their thing on the Neighbors Skate Shop ramp, flipping and flexing, making sculptures out of their bodies in midair, while others double-dutch or Hula-Hoop in exacting harmony.

This block party — multigenerational, multivibrational — is in celebration of the sand-colored sanctuary and sculpture park that is “sister dreamer,” a direct expression of its spirit and purpose.

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From left to right: Andre “Sketch” Hampton, Emmanuel Carter, Lauren Halsey and Kenneth Blackmon.

From left to right: Andre “Sketch” Hampton, Emmanuel Carter, Lauren Halsey and Kenneth Blackmon.

Artist Lauren Halsey has been dreaming and scheming on this sculpture park for 17 years. (She has the Photobucket receipts to prove it.) The paper trail follows from her third semester studying architecture at El Camino College, when she used to take long bus rides down Western and project her ideas onto empty lots, cutting them together in Photoshop — part-planning, part-manifestation. Variations of these ideas have appeared at the Studio Museum in Harlem, the now-iconic Crenshaw District Hieroglyph Project at the Hammer, the rooftop at the Met and the Venice Biennale. But “sister dreamer” has always been the goal — a way to go beyond only representing or depicting her community and giving back to it in a tangible way.

The location of “sister dreamer” is specific and important — for one, it’s the former site of neighborhood ice cream staple Gwen’s Double Dip, a history honored at the block party through a pop-up parlor created by Halsey’s studio. But it’s also because Halsey grew up around the way and can trace her family history back more than 100 years to this place. She comes from a long line of people who have served their community and taught Halsey to do the same. “sister dreamer” is the culmination. Both a once-in-a-lifetime artwork and a free, public venue where every day, from dawn till dusk, people can live and imagine.

“From the beginning, the conceit was to summon all the types of experiences of Blackness in one place, the project being a vessel or container for all of that expression,” Halsey says. “If I could create spaces that democratize Blackness because they’re gorgeous, they’re inclusive, they pay homage to all of us, that’s just a cool type of unity I want to see. And if I could do that through funk as the language, it would also be fun and playful and attract the energies I’m looking for.”

Lauren Halsey stands inside of the oculus at "sister dreamer."

“From the beginning, the conceit was to summon all the types of experiences of Blackness in one place,” artist Lauren Halsey says about “sister dreamer.”

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To see L.A.’s newest architectural monument in effect is to experience people being celebrated. This public artwork and its function — as in, this party and the space’s purpose — feels like a mirror, a temple to self, a shrine to funk, a dedication and invitation to experience what is still so divine and aspirational about the present moment. Writer Douglas Kearney illuminates it strikingly in the curatorial statement etched into a back wall in “sister dreamer”: “… it’s the sacred phenomenon of luxe space that remembers without memorializing, celebrates without eulogizing. An anti-tomb.”

Life in its most beautiful forms — the poetic, artistic range of Black life in South-Central — is on display everywhere you look here.

Standing in the open-air cube that is the oculus of “sister dreamer,” most people have their gaze pointed up, seeing — what else? — themselves. The entire space is dripping in the dense Black L.A.-meets-Egyptology that has become Halsey’s signature. People run their fingers over carved reliefs telling the rich story of a neighborhood, culture and creed, reflecting the folk art that has existed in South-Central since forever. The hand-painted signage and hood graphics are familiar, the mantras and spiritual emblems — “Be Ye Who Ye Is,” a spiral of cornrows wreathed on the back of a head, the comma-curve of an XL nail — are personal. Known legends stare back at us — hi, Sika — and others are finally given agency, including the Black women who were killed at the hands of the Grim Sleeper in the 1980s, their faces framing the entrance of the oculus like guardian angels.

“Lauren Halsey in her work brilliantly represents the range of contributions, resistance and resilience by our communities including the collective work I have been part of demanding payment for all caregiving work, and working for justice, dignity and visibility for the scores of Black women who were victims of serial murders in South L.A. and who were marginalized dehumanized and treated as throwaway women,” says Margaret Prescod, founder of the Black Coalition Fighting Back Serial Murders.

These carved reliefs span dimensions of the Black L.A. experience — there’s so much joy, there’s this overdue reverence too; another, fuller frame. All of this is a result of Halsey’s obsession with the way her community speaks to each other through visual language. There are five infinity fountains, also clad in carvings, punctuating the space while fragrant native plants perfume the warm, dry L.A. air, identified by information cards written in Halsey’s recognizable script. L.A.-based Current Interests served as the project architect, while Phil Davis came in as the landscape designer.

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There are eight Hathoric columns and eight sphinxes in “sister dreamer” that honor local heroes, community workers and Halsey’s friends and family. “I love this sort of ceremonial procession as you walk through the sphinxes and columns — these figures who have created safe space for me, literally, conceptually, spiritually,” Halsey says. DaVinci, Bopbop, Barrington, Damien, Janine, Margaret, Susan and Rosie stand 22 feet tall, kissing the sky. While Dominic, Aujunae, Bobby, Monique, Glenda, Robin, Londyn and Antoinette ground us, warm expressions on long sphinx bodies, serving as ultimate anchors.

Image April 2026 Lauren Halsey
Michael Towler and Dominique Moody.

Michael Towler and Dominique Moody.

Barrington Darius.
Robin Daniels, co-founder of Sisters of Watts, looking up at the carved reliefs in "sister dreamer."

“Seeing it in person, yeah, that was different. Compared to the work you’re doing in community, boots on the ground, and then actually seeing your picture, or you know — your face — on something like that, it is something you’ll never imagine,” says Robin Daniels, co-founder of Sisters of Watts, who is depicted as one of the sphinxes in “sister dreamer.”

First debuted in “the eastside of south central los angeles hieroglyph prototype architecture (i)” as part of New York’s skyline, this marks a homecoming for the columns and sphinxes. L.A.’s sons and daughters, mothers and grandmothers, uncles and aunties, leaders and stewards, artists and musicians, holding court on native soil. These are people, Halsey says, “who have summoned a love and care that I’ve admired, both on a micro and macro level.” Those depicted include Halsey’s mother, whom she wanted to put on a physical pedestal for her family, for the neighborhood, for the public “to see her in the light that I experience her in every day,” she says. There’s her little brother, whom she describes as “my BFF … love incarnate,” and her now-teenage cousins, who were kids when Halsey was doing mock-ups in their grandmother’s backyard. “I’m [having] difficulty expressing the words because I’m overwhelmed with emotion. This is not easy work,” says another cousin Damien Goodmon, one of the columns and CEO of Downtown Crenshaw Rising/Liberty Ecosystem. “People see the glamour and all the awards, but it’s hard, and I can only imagine how difficult it is for her to carry this as a person who’s not necessarily always that public. She’s been trying to do this for years — lifting up that tremendous history.”

In creating a new monument for her city, Halsey has made her loved ones landmarks in L.A.’s architectural legacy — cementing them as giants in its rich universe. “When I saw my face I was shocked,” says Rosie Lee Hooks, director of the Watts Towers Arts Center Campus. “It was so personal and me! I am not used to seeing myself so clearly. Lauren is a carrier of the culture. She is a storyteller, a griot. A documentarian, an architect, a dream-catcher. Keeper of our community and world culture. She honors all those who came before her, are here now and those to come. Right on with the right on.”

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An opening block party like this one — “the block party of the year,” as one or 100 attendees put it — feels like the only appropriate way to mark the realization of a vision this singular and interconnected. And it’s a living, breathing reminder of a tenant that’s been a part of Halsey’s work from the jump: An architectural monument only becomes truly meaningful when people can see a space for themselves there. Architecture, at its best, is people. “Seeing yourself at that scale makes you feel many ways,” says Barrington Darius, an artist and one of Halsey’s collaborators depicted on a column. “Seen, respected and larger than life.” The party is also a slice of what “sister dreamer” will be home to every day: music, funk, fashion, art, games and space. (The three pillars of Halsey’s nonprofit Summaeverythang Community Center — art, education and wellness — will officially inform the space’s programming, including things like museum visits, film screenings, Kemetic yoga and more.)

From left to right: Cheryl Ward, Kenneth Blackmon, Monique McWilliams, Rosie Lee Hooks, Michael Towler, Dominique Moody

From left to right: Cheryl Ward, Kenneth Blackmon, Monique McWilliams, Rosie Lee Hooks, Michael Towler, Dominique Moody, Andre “Sketch” Hampton, Monique Hatter, Christopher Blunt, Robin Daniels, Margaret Prescod, Barrington Darius, Damien Goodmon, Londyn Garrison, Dyani Luckey, Autumn Luckey, Lauren Halsey, Emmanuel Carter.

From left to right: Cheryl Ward, Kenneth Blackmon, Monique McWilliams.

From left to right: Cheryl Ward, Kenneth Blackmon, Monique McWilliams.

“When I first saw myself as a sculpture in the work, I thought about representation — how it matters and what that image will sow into the fabric of our youth.”

— Monique McWilliams, partner

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Londyn Garrison.
Autumn Luckey, Emmanuel Carter, Christopher Blunt.

Autumn Luckey, Emmanuel Carter, Christopher Blunt.

It’s extra in all the best ways. Hosted by Watts Homie Quan, performers like Roc’co Tha Clown, and Divas and Drummers of Compton keep the energy high near the DJ booth. At one point the sound of a preschooler’s voice singing “This Little Light of Mine” belts through the streets. “Let it shine, let it shine, let it shiiiiiiine.” Throughout the day, people can’t seem to stop reaching for means of documentation — their camcorder, digicam, phone, at one point even a palm-size notebook where a young artist from the neighborhood was sketching one of the sphinxes. The desire, or compulsion, to document this moment seems to come from a shared understanding that the opening of “sister dreamer,” all of us here together, is a historic event.

Back in the park, I sit for a while and watch, thinking about how this couldn’t feel more different from a gallery opening. People breathe with the art, they touch it, they feel it, they laugh with it. Goddesses on roller skates glide in buttery figure eights across the glass-fiber-reinforced concrete. Wait, is that Usher dancing with Tiffany Haddish in front of the oculus? Of course it is. Jane Fonda too. Oh, and there’s Kamasi Washington, Maxine Waters, Charles Gaines and Erykah Badu.

An older Black woman saunters down Western, low and slow, holding a watermelon and mango cup in one hand and her cane in the other. She wears a matching Kelly green set and a bedazzled baseball hat that reads, “Relax, God is in control.” Fly, of course, and yet another example of the brilliance and style of Black people on display today, but it also conjures something Halsey said weeks before the “sister dreamer” opening. “People don’t talk about God a lot, but I’m just so grateful that God gave me the endurance to continue and push through despite whatever,” Halsey says. “It’s just a testimony to the power of prayer and ancestors and work ethic and alignment. So, I’m just so tired, but it’s so worth it.”

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In line for the merch booth, sweat drips down our backs. Even in the heat, multiple people walk by wearing the “sister dreamer” X Supervsn collab from head to toe or have already pulled on their “sister dreamer” X Come Tees longsleeves they picked up from the shop, its signage reading: “Treat yaself don’t cheat yaself!” An hour passes, but we’re all determined to take a piece of this day home — more than a memento, but proof that we were a part of it. It is that serious.

“I want to see the art last,” a musician standing behind me tells their companion.

“Is it the dessert?” the companion asks in response.

“It’s just the last thing I want to think about. The last thing I want to linger on.”

Lauren Halsey and her loved ones stand in the center of her monument in South-Central.
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Video: The New Aesthetic of ‘Euphoria’

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Video: The New Aesthetic of ‘Euphoria’

new video loaded: The New Aesthetic of ‘Euphoria’

“Euphoria,” the HBO Max show depicting Gen Z, has released its final season. Three of our Style reporters — Gina Cherelus, Jacob Gallagher and Callie Holtermann — discuss the show’s new western aesthetic.

By Gina Cherelus, Jacob Gallagher, Callie Holtermann, Léo Hamelin and Gabriel Blanco

April 13, 2026

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