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Commentary: The real reason the Getty and National Portrait Gallery’s joint acquisition is a big deal

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Commentary: The real reason the Getty and National Portrait Gallery’s joint acquisition is a big deal

In an unusually intelligent fundraising gambit, information flashed across the British press and social media early Friday morning to announce the joint acquisition by London’s Nationwide Portrait Gallery and Los Angeles’ J. Paul Getty Museum of a superb 18th century portrait by Sir Joshua Reynolds (1723-1792).

“Mai is staying! Joshua Reynolds’ Portrait of Omai shall be acquired and owned collectively by @NPGLondon and @GettyMuseum — simply introduced,” tweeted author Lucy Ward, who has been instrumental in efforts to maintain the privately owned portray from leaving the U.Okay. Its proprietor, Dublin-based businessman John Magnier, supplied the work on the market on the open marketplace for a reported £50 million (greater than $61 million) nearly two years in the past, and an export license was instantly deferred to offer a U.Okay. purchaser an opportunity to match the asking worth.

“Celebrating that the nice Reynolds portrait Omai — Mai as he was truly named — is to remain!” a prominent British historian tweeted, correcting the Polynesian sitter’s identify. (The “o” earlier than “mai” is an introductory phrase, like “right here’s” or “I’m.”) Another writer exulted, “Good news. Following a superb marketing campaign” to save lots of the masterpiece for the British public.

“The concept,” defined London’s Artwork Newspaper, “is that the Reynolds portray shall be on show in London and Los Angeles half the time, being moved between the 2 museums maybe each 5 years.”

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“Nationwide Portrait Gallery and Getty to share possession of Reynolds portrait” headlined the information from the U.Okay.’s Museums Assn.

And on went the rejoicing — understandably so, given what seems to be an impressive murals. Practically 8 toes tall, the oil portray depicts a tattooed younger Tahitian man in his early 20s who sailed to London with Captain Cook dinner in 1774. Mai turned a sensation in aristocratic British society, feted by King George III.

Reynolds took the superstar route for his portrait of Mai. He’s theatrically wearing classical Roman robes and a turban, and he’s posed earlier than an entirely imagined and idealized South Pacific panorama.

Many students hail the work as Reynolds’ biggest portray. Whether or not that’s the case is difficult to say, as the image has been in non-public arms and infrequently proven in public because it was painted nearly 250 years in the past. (Reynolds was placing brush to canvas simply across the time a quill was being put to parchment in Philadelphia to jot down the Declaration of Independence.) I’ve by no means seen it, nor have many different critics and historians.

Simon Schama, the nice British historian of European cultural historical past, had not laid eyes on it both, till just a few weeks in the past, when London’s Nationwide Portrait Gallery gave him a glance. Schama promptly posted a stirring plea to YouTube to maintain the image in Britain and accessible to the general public.

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An acquisition by the NPG, reopening June 22 after a serious three-year renovation, would in some ways signify a full-scale coming-out social gathering for an impressive Grand Method portrait of an individual of coloration — a rarity in an aristocratic style so nicely represented at, for instance, the Huntington Library, Artwork Museum, and Gardens in San Marino. (Reynolds’ “Sarah (Kemble) Siddons because the Tragic Muse,” “Portrait of Samuel Johnson, ‘Blinking Sam’” and “Diana (Sackville), Viscountess Crosbie” are standouts amongst a dozen work by the artist there.) A portrait of the Black author and composer Ignatius Sancho by Thomas Gainsborough, Reynolds’ nice rival, painted six years earlier than “Mai,” is within the assortment of the Nationwide Gallery of Canada.

Drowned out in all of the hoopla, nevertheless, have been some moderately sobering caveats. The formal press launch collectively issued by the NPG and the Getty was cautious to notice some “ifs.”

NPG director Nicholas Cullinan was excited to “hopefully change into co-owners” of the masterpiece with the Getty.

Getty Belief CEO Katherine E. Fleming is blissful for the “alternative to take part” in what can be an modern association.

British Arts and Heritage Minister Lord Parkinson of Whitley Bay expressed delight that the 2 museums “are closing in on finalizing a deal.”

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Getty Museum director Timothy Potts was most direct, noting that the sharing plan would occur solely “if the Nationwide Portrait Gallery is profitable within the last part of its fundraising marketing campaign.”

Will or not it’s?

Plainly, that’s what right this moment’s announcement is designed to push for. It’s a last-ditch fundraising pitch.

For a spectacular artwork museum acquisition to be formally declared earlier than it has truly taken place is very uncommon. This ballyhooed announcement appears designed to create such a celebratory temper round a portray little-known to the British public that failing to seize it now can be nothing lower than a nationwide scandal.

It’s Britain, in any case, not the Getty that hasn’t been capable of muster the required funds. U.Okay. fundraising stalled at beneath $30 million — lower than half the asking worth. The Getty, safe with an $8-billion endowment, supplied to share the acquisition some months in the past, however Britain at first declined, decided to have the image stay in London full-time. Lower than two weeks in the past the deferment on the export license, which had been prolonged as soon as, was set to run out after a full yr. For an apparently unprecedented third time it was prolonged once more, pushed to June 10 — simply days earlier than the NPG’s deliberate reopening.

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Information in regards to the potential joint buy represents a big turnaround within the NPG’s pondering. A yawning hole of greater than $30 million within the fundraising aim has been slashed to a significantly extra manageable determine of about $1.2 million. (An emailed request to the museum for an actual determine was not returned by press time.) Partial possession is now preferable to no possession in any respect, particularly for a portray that immediately turns into an important in your complete museum assortment.

In fact, with out the export license deferral, the Getty might need been the museum to carry the masterpiece full-time, negotiating acquisition on the steep asking worth. It could have been illuminating, particularly beneath the big-money circumstances, to see it hanging in Brentwood with the three-quarter-length Gainsborough “Portrait of James Christie,” founding father of the London public sale home that also bears his identify.

Britain’s protectionist art-export legal guidelines have been an issue for years, and the apparently unprecedented extensions to snag the Reynolds present how tattered the scheme has change into. Now that the artwork market resides within the stratosphere, whereas cash-strapped Britain struggles, it is going to solely worsen. As soon as Reynolds’ “Mai” has been secured, that’s an issue that officers desperately want to handle.

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Movie Reviews

‘It’s Not Me’ Review: Leos Carax’s Cinema Collage Mixes Movies, History and Real Life into a Personal Manifesto

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‘It’s Not Me’ Review: Leos Carax’s Cinema Collage Mixes Movies, History and Real Life into a Personal Manifesto

After Jean-Luc Godard, Leos Carax is probably the French filmmaker most associated with the term enfant terrible. In some ways, he’s been even more terrible than Godard ever was, adopting a pseudonym (he was born Alex Dupont) as a teenager and bursting onto the scene at age 24 with Boy Meets Girl — Godard made Breathless when he was 30 — which immediately turned him into a major young auteur to be reckoned with.

He followed that up with the powerful, AIDS-inspired Mauvais Sang, and then made The Lovers on the Bridge, a film infamous for being a French Heaven’s Gate that went way over budget and flopped (it’s still a fantastic movie). After that Carax disappeared for a while, then reemerged to make a few shorts, compose pop songs and shoot a new feature every decade, the last one being the Adam Driver-Marion Cotillard starrer, Annette.

It’s Not Me

The Bottom Line

A short and dense film autobiography suited for the auteur’s fans.

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Venue: Cannes Film Festival (Cannes Première)
Cast: Denis Lavant, Nastya Golubeva Carax, Anna-Isabel Siefken, Bianca Maddaluno, Kateryna Yuspina, Loreta Juodkaite, Peter Anevskii
Director, screenwriter, editor: Leos Carax

40 minutes

His latest work, the medium-length, autobiographical collage It’s Not Me (C’est pas moi), is both that of an enfant terrible and a true-blooded Godard disciple. It mimics, or pays homage to, the late Franco-Swiss director’s montage films like Histoire(s) du cinéma and The Image Book, using the same colorful on-screen titles that JLG once used to comment on footage both old and new.

That footage was assembled by Carax for an exhibition meant to happen at the Pompidou Center a few years ago, but still yet to take place. (Back in 2006, Godard was asked to do his own show at the same museum, then abandoned it due to “artistic, financial and technical difficulties,” only to replace it several months later with what was best described as a “non-exhibition.)

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In preparation for the show, the organizers ask Carax a simple question: Who are you? The answer, according to It’s Not Me, it that he’s everything from silent movies to Hollywood Golden Age classics to scenes from his own work. He’s also the music of Nina Simone and David Bowie and The Fall, as well as Ravel and Beethoven. He’s Monsieur Merde (Mister Shit), a raving alter-ego played by Denis Lavant, who’s starred in nearly all of his films. And he’s above all a person who defines himself through the cinema, whether it’s the movies he loves or those he’s made throughout his turbulent career.

People unfamiliar with Carax’s oeuvre will likely be lost here, while fans and cinephiles will find a hearty meal to feast on. It’s Not Me is chock-full of references and influences, from F.W. Murnau to Jean Vigo to Godard himself, whose trembling voice is heard on a voice message he once left the director.

There are also scenes featuring Carax’s real family, including his daughter, the actress Nastya Golubeva Carax, whom we see skipping along the Seine in old cell phone footage, then marvelously playing piano in a scene illuminated by candles. The auteur himself appears a few times as well: at the very start, where he’s lying on something like his deathbed, and later walking through the Buttes-Chaumont park accompanied by Monsieur Merde, who gleefully runs down a hill and defecates in a bush.

The film jumps around so quickly that it’s sometimes hard to follow the director’s lead. At other moments Carax more succinctly expresses his views, such as in a rapid-fire montage of world leaders that groups together Putin, Trump, Kim Jong-il and Benjamin Netanyahu. Another scene provides a brief history of Roman Polanski’s tumultuous and controversial life, in what seems like a plea for his defense.

While Carax’s movies have never been overtly political or historical, this one makes several references to Hitler and the Nazis. In one sequence, the director cuts in footage of Isadore Greenbaum, the Jewish plumber who tried to interrupt a pro-Nazi rally held at Madison Square Garden in 1939. In a later scene staged by Carax — and shot by cinematographer Caroline Champetier, the DP of Holy Motors — a mother sits beside her children in bed, eerily reading a bedtime story that describes the Final Solution.

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Again, it’s a hearty meal, and also a condensed one at only 40 minutes. The auteur seems to be squeezing everything he can into a personal manifesto in which cinema, history and real life become interchangeable, and in which he tries to situate his work within film’s larger trajectory. The most telling evidence of this is a sequence which cuts from Eadweard Muybridge’s pioneering photos of a horse in movement to a tracking shot of Lavant gloriously running and dancing down a Paris street in Mauvais Sang.

At such moments, it’s clear that Carax has not only reserved his own place in cinema’s trajectory, but that his films remain instantly recognizable through their romantic exuberance and visual splendor, their dark humor and existential gloom. These traits may not describe who Carax is or wants to be — if one is to believe that his latest movie is not, in fact, him (c’est pas moi). But they’re what we know and love about a great filmmaker, and still very much an enfant terrible at age 63, who’s always put the whole of himself into his work.

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With 'OMG Fashun,' Julia Fox and Law Roach bring sustainable, daring style to reality TV

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With 'OMG Fashun,' Julia Fox and Law Roach bring sustainable, daring style to reality TV

With the years-long success of series like “Project Runway” and “America’s Next Top Model,” fashion competition reality TV shows are nothing new. But “OMG Fashun” is a different type of series ripe for short attention spans and a style-savvy generation more attuned to the concerns about the environment.

“There’s so many awful things happening in the world,” says Julia Fox, the show’s co-host, over the phone from New Mexico, where she’s in production for a movie. “And this isn’t one of them.”

“OMG Fashun,” which premiered May 6 on E! and airs weekly at 9 p.m. Pacific, is a thrilling reality competition series hosted by Fox, fashion’s “It” girl and cultural renegade, and celebrity stylist Law Roach. The show brings sustainable fashion to the forefront with quickfire competitions and a rotation of guest judges that includes Phaedra Parks of “Real Housewives” fame, “13 Reasons Why” star Tommy Dorfman and more.

But “OMG Fashun” opts for snackable episodes primed for the TikTok generation — roughly 20 minutes each — that feature three rising “fashion disruptors” competing in two separate challenges. The catch? They’re encouraged to use sustainable, upcycled — and often — unconventional materials like insects and condoms. It’s chaotic — and that’s the point.

Behind the series is Scout Productions, known for reality shows like “Queer Eye,” “Legendary” and “The Gentle Art of Swedish Death Cleaning,” a company with decades of experience in the reality competition space. After producing the two-season streetwear competition series “The Hype,” Scout Productions co-founder David Collins and Chief Creative Officer Rob Eric were asked by their agent if they wanted to chat with Fox. A 15-minute conversation turned into an hour-long one.

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Model Wisdom Kaye, left, a guest judge on “OMG Fashun” with hosts Julia Fox and Law Roach.

(Quantrell Colbert/E! Entertainment)

“She brought this originality to how we look at fashion, how we look at ourselves in fashion, what fashion actually is,” Eric says in an interview alongside Collins over Zoom. “That it doesn’t need to be a $40,000 outfit, but it actually could be leaves that she found in a park.” That sparked the idea for “OMG Fashun.” He added, “We thought, ‘Oh, what would it be like if we could take 90 minutes of ‘Project Runway,’ mix with ‘The Hype’ chopped into it, and put it into a 21-minute show?’

Eric and Collins, who executive produced the series, were in constant awe of how Fox, 34, made her mark in the fashion world with an unwavering sense of authenticity. “She wore a dress made of condoms. She wore a dress made of ties. All [the] sustainable stuff that she was doing, and it kept getting put into TMZ, WWD and Elle magazine. We knew that Julia had that voice,” Eric says.

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Reality TV came naturally for Fox, whose prior credits have been in film. After all, she’s used to doing “new stuff.” However, it was admittedly “more work than acting” for her because whole episodes had to be shot in a day.

“It was a lot of outfit changes, a lot of time in hair and makeup, super early call time, ending super late at night,” she says.

But Fox seemingly made it look easy. Collins says everyone was “slack-jawed” from the second she sat down on the stage despite never having starred on a TV show before. “We’re like, ‘What? We’re not having to prompt her, tell her, and remind her?’ She just killed it over, over and over again,” he says.

Roach, 45, who was recruited by Scout Productions after working on “Legendary,” was intrigued by the premise of “OMG Fashun” — highlighting emerging designers and sustainability. Fox also had wanted to work with the stylist for a while. “We both had admiration for each other’s work and the things that she wore. I think her stylist is incredible,” he says over the phone from Los Angeles.

The pair ultimately had a “fun” dynamic, he says, since Fox “doesn’t take herself seriously at all.”

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“She gave me so much agency to poke fun at her and she did the same to me,” Roach says. “She’d create this really fun and friendly and kooky work environment, so it was great. It made me excited to go to work every day and to see what she was going to wear because we didn’t share outfits.”

A woman in a halter top and miniskirt adorned with knickknacks holds a drawer on her head.

Julia Fox modeling a design on “OMG Fashun.”

(Quantrell Colbert/E! Entertainment)

While Fox and Roach had fun with their roles on the show, the talent was nothing to mock. “These young designers had these incredible gifts and ideas of how to take discarded materials and turn them into wearable works of art,” he says.

So “OMG Fashun” doesn’t just want to be another fashion show. “We’ve seen other shows that have a component where there’s a challenge where they’re instructed to create a garment out of recycled materials or upcycling or discarded fabrics,” Roach says. “But this one, the entire show is based on that principle.”

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Fox often struggled to choose a winner because she was in such awe of the designers’ talents. In the nature challenge, for instance, she had to stop filming because she couldn’t decide between the contestants. Luckily, Fox is keen on wearing their designs whether they take home the top prize or not on “OMG Fashun.” “I did wear one of the outfits [from the show] during the press tour — the little black blazer with the underwear bottoms with the metal utensils on them, nail clippers, nail files and forks,” she said. She’s also kept in touch with many of the contestants too.

Amid the release of “OMG Fashun,” Roach made headlines for the “tenniscore” ensembles he helped architect for Zendaya and the hashtag he started — #TashiMadeMeWearIt — amid the “Challengers” press tour.

“Just to see people participate in tenniscore and going out in groups and dressing in this way, that’s the most heartwarming and incredible thing. I’m like, ‘This might be cool to give people this challenge to go out and to create these looks,’ he says.

Fox also admired how Zendaya’s looks were playful nods to the film and its themes. “It was definitely giving ‘OMG Fashun’ for sure,” she says.

With Fox’s presence on “OMG Fashun” and her affinity for daring looks, is a fashion line in her future? Not exactly.

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Three people standing near the runway.

“OMG Fashun” contestants Katya Lee, Chelsea Billingsley and Bradley Callahan.

(Quantrell Colbert/E! Entertainment)

“Is that really what this planet needs — another fashion line? Like, I’d rather prop up kids that are doing it and salute them for their efforts and call it a day,” she says. Fox also would rather rely on someone else’s talents: “Why would I want to do it myself when I could have someone else do it for me?”

Should “OMG Fashun” get another season, the co-hosts already know who they’d love to see as guest judges. Roach wants John Galliano, Grace Jones, Naomi Campbell or RuPaul on. Fox, on the other hand, wants to recruit Doja Cat, Dennis Rodman, Gwen Stefani or Lil’ Kim. “I love accidental-like fashion icons,” she says. “People that didn’t really set out or try but became [them].”

Ultimately, the hope is that viewers watching will shift their perspective on fashion. Fox wants people to “dig a little deeper” and “look inward.”

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Roach adds, “We’ve gotten into this culture of once you have something, you post it on social media that it has to be discarded, you can never wear it again. I challenge people to reinvent the clothes that they already have and the way they’ve worn them. If you like it, buy it. If you love it, live in it.”

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Movie Reviews

Black Dog: Chinese director Guan Hu makes Cannes debut

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Black Dog: Chinese director Guan Hu makes Cannes debut

2.5/5 stars

Black Dog begins with all the trappings of a revenge Western. Set in a godforsaken town where bad guys roam around with impunity, it revolves around a reticent man returning home after a decade-long absence to confront his sworn enemies.

It also seems to have everything in place for a political allegory. Juxtaposing images of crumbling tenements with incessant radio news bulletins about the Beijing Olympics, the story, set in 2008, could offer commentary about the clash of reality and dreams in 21st century China.

As it turns out, Guan Hu’s film is neither. From the big bang of its first half-hour, Black Dog is slowly reduced to a whimper, as what was set up to be a hard-boiled genre film turns into a sentimental relationship drama about a wayward man’s attempt to connect with his family, friends, foes and his new four-legged buddy.

Having transformed himself from a Sixth Generation indie filmmaker to a master of battle-heavy blockbusters like The Eight Hundred and The Sacrifice, Guan begins Black Dog with what is arguably the most stunning set piece in mainland Chinese cinema so far this year.
Somewhere amid the tumbleweed-filled steppes of northwest China, hundreds of dogs run down a mountain towards a remote road, causing a travelling bus to flip over. Among those who crawl from the debris is Lang (Eddie Peng Yu-yan), a mysterious, taciturn ex-convict returning home after a decade away.

Settling into his long-abandoned home, his past returns to haunt him in the form of the local butcher, who accused Lang of having caused his nephew’s death.

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A still from Black Dog.

But the bad guy in town is Yao (Jia Zhangke), the chain-smoking leader of a bunch of “dog management officers” who capture strays and steal pets in order to resell them elsewhere for a profit.

Lang joins Yao to earn some hard cash, only to find his humanity flickering back to life when he forms a bond with a raging, rabies-stricken hound. This inspires him to reconcile with his adversaries, his ailing zoo-master father and his younger self.

While there’s nothing wrong with Guan’s decision to steer a fatalistic tale towards a happy ending, the change of tone does Peng few favours, as he is forced to reprise the kind of gawky man-child role he has been typecast in for just too long.

A still from Black Dog, set in the steppes of northwest China.

Meanwhile, the flood of positive energy in the second half of the film renders its remarkable set design evoking doom and gloom irrelevant. The same can be said even of apparently important characters: Dong Liya’s circus acrobat, for example, is left with nothing to do as the prospect of forming a relationship with Lang evaporates.

The canines are cute, though – and for some, perhaps, that is Black Dog’s main draw.

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