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Remove your personal info from the web; stop it from coming back

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Remove your personal info from the web; stop it from coming back

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The first time I tried to remove my personal information from people search sites, it was back online after a few weeks. If the same thing happened to you, you might have decided it’s just not worth the effort. This is likely by design. 

Data brokers profit from your information, so they’re incentivized to make the process as difficult as possible. Sen. Maggie Hassan even called out a few data brokers recently for hiding their opt-out pages altogether. But you don’t have to let them keep your data, as long as you know what to do. 

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SPRING CLEAN YOUR DIGITAL FOOTPRINT: WHY RETIREES ARE SCAM TARGETS

A quick search of your name can reveal just how many sites are sharing your personal information without you realizing it. (Kurt “CyberGuy” Knutsson)

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How to remove your personal info

The way I see it, there are two ways you can do this:

  • Manually removing your information
  • Using an automated data removal service

I recommend the second option. It saves a lot of time and does a more thorough job than most people will manage on their own. But if you still prefer to go about it yourself, I’ll share a step-by-step guide to help you do it as painlessly and thoroughly as possible.

Step 1: map your exposures

This step is important for when your information inevitably reappears after some time. Before you start removing anything, compile a list of places where your personal information appears or is likely to be held. Or you can compile the list yourself. The sites will likely include:

People search sites

These are the easiest to find because they’re designed to be public.

  • Search: “your full name” + city, “your phone number”, “your email”
  • Check beyond page 1, as many listings appear deeper in the results
  • Repeat searches with: Maiden names or name variations and old locations

Private data broker databases (harder to see, but widely used)

These don’t usually show up in search results because they sell data to businesses, not individuals. You can try to infer their presence based on how your data is used, but it’s no easy feat.

This is one of the reasons I recommend using a data removal service. They narrow down which brokers are most likely to have your information based on things like your location and other markers.

But if you want to try for yourself, look for signals like:

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  • Getting calls or emails from companies you’ve never interacted with
  • Highly specific outreach (e.g., your job title, income range, or recent move)
  • Pre-filled forms with your personal details

Where your data likely came from:

  • Warranty registrations
  • Loyalty programs and retail purchases
  • Financial, insurance, or real estate inquiries
  • App usage and location data

If you’ve shared your data with a company, there’s a strong chance it’s been resold or shared with brokers behind the scenes.

Marketing and lead generation lists

These are often built for targeted advertising and outreach, and your data can circulate across many of them at once.

How to spot them:

Sudden spikes in spam after:

Signing up for a service

Entering a giveaway or quiz

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Downloading a resource (e.g., ebook, discount code)

  • Signing up for a service
  • Entering a giveaway or quiz
  • Downloading a resource (e.g., ebook, discount code)
  • Emails that feel “personalized” but come from unfamiliar brands
  • Messages referencing a specific interest, purchase, or life event

Where to check:

  • Your email inbox (search for patterns in senders)
  • SMS history for unknown marketing messages
  • Unsubscribe pages (they often reveal the company or list owner)

Important: Unsubscribing usually stops messages. It doesn’t remove your data from the underlying list.

Public profile aggregators (not quite the same as people-search sites)

These sites compile information from across the web but aren’t always designed specifically for “people lookup.”

Examples include:

  • Old forum profiles or community pages
  • Professional directories and membership listings
  • Scraped social media profiles
  • Event attendee lists or speaker bios

How to find them:

Search your name in quotes + keywords like:

“profile”, “bio”, “member”, “directory”

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  • “profile”, “bio”, “member”, “directory”
  • Search usernames you’ve used in the past
  • Use image search to find reused profile photos

These are often overlooked but can still expose valuable details like your location, employer, or social links.

5 MYTHS ABOUT IDENTITY THEFT THAT PUT YOUR DATA AT RISK

Data broker listings often include sensitive details like your address, phone number and relatives, making removal a critical first step. (Kurt “CyberGuy” Knutsson)

Step 2: Remove your data

Now that you’ve mapped where your data is exposed (or likely to be), it’s time to start removing it. Instead of jumping randomly between sites, work through your list in order of visibility and risk:

  • People search sites (highest visibility)
  • Public profile aggregators
  • Marketing and lead-gen lists
  • Private data brokers (least visible, but still important)

Remove your data from people-search sites

These should be your first priority because they make your personal information easy for anyone to find.

Typical process:

  • Find your listing using the link you saved earlier
  • Locate the “opt-out” or “remove my info” page (usually in the footer)
  • Submit your profile URL
  • Verify your request (via email or CAPTCHA)

What to expect:

  • Time per site: ~5-20 minutes
  • Removal timeframe: a few days to a couple of weeks

Tip: Save confirmation emails or screenshots. You may need them if your data reappears.

Remove your data from public profile aggregators

These can be less standardized, since they’re often scraped or republished pages.

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Typical process:

  1. Look for a “Contact,” “Support,” or “Privacy” page
  2. Request removal directly (or delete your account, if possible)
  3. If no response, identify the site owner via WHOIS or hosting info

Alternative option:

  • If the page won’t be removed, you can request de-indexing through Google, but this only hides it from search results, not the site itself

These take more effort, but they’re worth addressing because they often contain contextual details (job, interests, affiliations.) 

Remove your data from marketing and lead-generation lists

This is less about a single listing and more about stopping ongoing data use.

Typical process:

  • Use the “unsubscribe” link in emails or reply STOP to SMS messages
  • Look for a “delete my data” or privacy request option
  • Submit a formal request if available (often under GDPR/CCPA rights)

Important:

  • Unsubscribing stops messages
  • It does not always delete your data

If the company has a privacy page, look specifically for:

  • “Right to deletion”
  • “Do not sell my information”

Remove your data from private data broker databases

These are the least visible and often the most frustrating to deal with manually.

Typical process:

  1. Find the company’s privacy or legal page
  2. Submit a data access or deletion request
  3. Verify your identity (this may require ID documents)

What makes this harder:

  • You often don’t know which brokers have your data
  • Some require detailed verification
  • Responses can take weeks

This is where most people hit a wall and where ongoing monitoring or automation becomes useful.

Keep track as you go

As you work through your list, track:

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  • Sites you’ve submitted requests to
  • Dates of submission
  • Confirmation emails or case IDs

This makes it much easier to:

  • Follow up if needed
  • Re-check later when your data reappears

1 BILLION IDENTITY RECORDS EXPOSED IN ID VERIFICATION DATA LEAK

Even after you remove your information, it can reappear, which is why ongoing monitoring or automated removal matters. (Kurt “CyberGuy” Knutsson)

The best way to deal with resurfacing data

My recommendation is to use a personal data removal service. These services handle the entire removal process for you, so there’s no need to search for your own data online or return to data broker sites to repeat opt-out requests. Everything is managed in the background. 

They also tend to do a more thorough job than most people can manage on their own.

Many data removal services can request deletions from a wide range of websites, including some that are not easy to find on your own. They also scan for new exposures, alert you if your information shows up again and allow you to submit additional removal requests when needed. In some cases, these requests are handled by privacy specialists.

Most services also include a 30-day money-back guarantee, so you can try it risk-free and see how much of your information is exposed online.

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YOU COULD BE SHARING YOUR SOCIAL SECURITY NUMBER WHEN YOU DON’T NEED TO

Check out my top picks for data removal services and get a free scan to find out if your personal information is already out on the web by visiting Cyberguy.com.

Get a free scan to find out if your personal information is already out on the web: Cyberguy.com.

Kurt’s key takeaways

Removing your personal information from the internet is not a one-and-done task. It takes persistence, a bit of strategy and the right tools. The frustrating part is that your data can come back even after you remove it, but that does not mean the effort is wasted. Every step you take reduces your exposure and makes it harder for your information to spread. If you want the most control, doing it manually gives you a clear view of where your data lives. However, if you want consistency without the ongoing time commitment, a data removal service can take that burden off your plate and keep working in the background. Either way, the key is to stay proactive. Your data has value, and once you start treating it that way, you will approach your privacy very differently.

Have you ever removed your personal info online only to see it show up again later, and what did you do next? Let us know by writing to us at Cyberguy.com.

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Technology

Room for the Moon is thrillingly weird experimental pop

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Room for the Moon is thrillingly weird experimental pop

For obvious reasons, I’ve had Moon on the mind all week. So I was trying to figure out what I should recommend this week that would thematically fit. Brian Eno’s Apollo: Atmospheres and Soundtracks is incredible, and if you haven’t listened to it, go do that now. But it also seemed a bit on the nose. Radiohead’s A Moon Shaped Pool also came to mind. But it also felt a bit obvious. Then I remembered Kate NV’s Room for the Moon, a record I had on repeat in 2020.

Russian artist Kate Shilonosova chases ideas across 11 tracks inspired by Russian and Japanese pop from the ‘70s and ‘80s, as well as children’s movies. This obviously leads Room for the Moon to indulge its most whimsical impulses. It’s a fairytale rendered in snappy Talking Heads-esque bass, proggy synths, and reverbed drum machines.

The opener “Not Not Not” is almost goofy, its chaotic melodies constantly dancing around each other in a perpetually disorienting way. It lurches forward asymetrically, grooving like a flat tire. The instrumental “Da Na” follows, drawing on a familiar yet slightly uncanny palette of sounds. The clarinet (?) drifts in and out of dissonance as if drunk. The tuned percussion elements flit around what might be a kenari seed shell shaker or someone running their fingers over the tines of a comb. It’s truly impossible to tell, and both seem as likely as the other.

“Sayonara (Full Moon Version)” is the fantastical daydream counterpart to Oingo Boingo’s nightmare new wave theatrics. The least strange track on the record is probably “Plans,” which fully embraces 80s dance pop aesthetics. But even that song finds room for a minute-long instrumental passage featuring a bleating, almost atonal saxophone solo.

While the sounds are strange, uneasy, and almost queasy at times, the songs are light and fantastical. Despite not understanding the lyrics, which are mostly in Russian, it’s impossible not to get a sense of hope from them. Kate NV’s Room for the Moon is not a somber lunar lullaby, but the pleasant dreams of an innocent mind.

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Identity theft losses surge 70% for older Americans

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Identity theft losses surge 70% for older Americans

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The FBI has just released its latest annual internet crime report, and the numbers are staggering: Americans filed 1,008,597 complaints with the Internet Crime Complaint Center (IC3) last year, with losses nearing $20.9 billion.

Buried in the new data is an eerily familiar trend getting more expensive for older adults. Identity theft complaints involving Americans 60 and older totaled 5,359 complaints and $48.5 million in reported losses in 2025, a steep jump from the year before.

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DO YOU KNOW THE TRUE COST OF IDENTITY THEFT?

Identity theft tied to major data broker breaches has cost Americans more than $20 billion over the past decade, according to a Senate report analyzing hundreds of millions of exposed records. (Sara Diggins/The Austin American-Statesman via Getty Images)

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Seniors account for a disproportionate share of losses

The report shows a clear fault line by age. Americans 60 and older filed more than 200,000 complaints in 2025, with reported losses reaching $7.7 billion, the highest total of any age group. By comparison, people in their 30s and 40s submitted more complaints overall, but reported lower total losses. Complaints from older adults more often involve bank accounts, retirement funds, and investment portfolios, where a single identity fraud incident can result in a large withdrawal or transfer.

IC3 data is based on self-reported complaints submitted by victims and businesses throughout the year. Each report includes details such as transaction type, payment method, and estimated losses. The FBI aggregates these submissions to identify where money is moving and which groups are being affected.

Identity theft appears within this data as one of several fraud types. Identity theft prompts fewer complaints than categories such as investment or tech support scams. In many cases, it’s used to get access to existing accounts, where stolen personal details can pass verification checks and move funds.

Identity theft losses trail other fraud types

Investment scams led all categories in 2025, with reported losses of more than $4.5 billion. Business email compromise followed, with losses exceeding $2.9 billion, while tech support scams accounted for more than $1 billion. These categories make up a large share of the $7.7 billion in total losses mentioned earlier.

Identity theft sits below those totals, though it remains part of how some of these cases unfold. Among victims age 60 and older, identity theft complaints added up to $48.5 million in reported losses last year. That’s a roughly 70% increase from 2024.

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Other federal data shows how common identity theft remains. The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) receives more than a million identity theft reports each year, placing it among the most frequently reported consumer issues, even as total losses remain lower than other fraud types.

5 MYTHS ABOUT IDENTITY THEFT THAT PUT YOUR DATA AT RISK

How are victims getting scammed?

Complaints from older Americans span a wide range of fraud types, with a few categories appearing consistently across IC3 reports.

  • High-volume scams: The most frequently reported complaints include phishing and spoofing, tech support scams, and government impersonation, all of which involve direct contact through phone calls, emails, or online messages. Other commonly reported cases include non-payment or non-delivery scams, extortion, and personal data breaches, each contributing to overall complaint volume among victims aged 60 and older.
  • High-loss scams: The categories tied to the largest losses are different. Investment scams, business email compromises, and confidence or romance scams account for a significant share of reported losses, even with fewer complaints.
  • New categories also appear in the 2025 data. AI-related scams are included for the first time, with thousands of complaints and substantial reported losses among older victims. Charity fraud is also listed as a newly reported fraud type for this group.

An identity theft victim in Albany, New York, looks over documents he’s gathered. Victims of identity theft frequently spend weeks disputing fraudulent accounts, contacting lenders and restoring their credit reports after stolen data is misused. (John Carl D’Annibale/Albany Times Union via Getty Images)

How to avoid these scams

With losses climbing, knowing how these scams work and how to spot them early can make all the difference.

1) Limit how personal information is shared

Be cautious when asked for Social Security numbers or account credentials. Government agencies, banks, and tech companies do not request this information through unsolicited calls, emails, or messages.

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2) Pause before sending money

Scams that lead to the largest losses often involve urgency. Requests to move money quickly – especially through wire transfers, cryptocurrency, or gift cards – should be treated with caution. Taking time to verify the request can prevent large losses.

3) Verify contacts independently

If a message claims to be from a bank or government agency, use a known phone number or official website to confirm. Do not rely on contact details provided in the message itself.

4) Watch for unusual account activity

Regularly review bank and investment accounts for unfamiliar transactions. Small or unexpected changes can be an early sign of unwanted access.

5) Use account protections where available

Enable two-factor authentication and account alerts where possible. These tools can help flag or block unauthorized access attempts.

Monitoring can help catch identity misuse earlier

When identity theft happens, the first sign could be a new account or a transaction the account holder didn’t authorize. Credit monitoring and identity protection services can track activity across credit files and financial accounts, alerting users when new accounts are opened or when personal information appears in known data breaches.

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That can give victims a window to act, such as freezing credit, locking accounts, or disputing fraudulent activity, before they lose money. Many services also offer identity theft insurance and fraud resolution support, helping cover certain losses and guiding victims through the recovery process.

If fraud does happen, that support can include working directly with banks, credit bureaus, and creditors to restore accounts and remove fraudulent activity.

For older Americans, where accounts often hold larger balances, timing can mean the difference between a small loss and a much larger one, and how quickly accounts are restored.

MICROSOFT ‘IMPORTANT MAIL’ EMAIL IS A SCAM: HOW TO SPOT IT

No service can prevent every kind of identity theft. However, monitoring tools and guided recovery support can make it easier to detect suspicious activity early and respond quickly.

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See my tips and best picks on Best Identity Theft Protection at Cyberguy.com

Kurt’s key takeaways

OpenAI joins the Global Anti-Scam Alliance as bad actors use AI to scam victims out of money and data. (Halfpoint/Getty Images)

The numbers tell a clear story. While identity theft may not top the list of total losses, it plays a critical role in how many of the biggest scams succeed. For older Americans, the stakes are higher because the accounts being targeted often hold decades of savings. What stands out isn’t just the increase in complaints. It’s how fraud is evolving. Scammers are combining tactics, using identity theft to unlock accounts, then moving money through investment scams, impersonation schemes or social engineering attacks. Once they get in, the damage can escalate quickly. The takeaway is simple. Slowing down, verifying requests and adding basic protections like alerts and two-factor authentication can make a real difference. Catching suspicious activity early often determines whether a loss stays small or becomes life-changing.

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If scammers only need one piece of your personal information to get started, how confident are you that yours isn’t already out there? Let us know by writing to us at Cyberguy.com

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Copyright 2026 CyberGuy.com.  All rights reserved.  

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Allow me to explain why I love this camera that can’t shoot color

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Allow me to explain why I love this camera that can’t shoot color

I love black-and-white photography. I also adore compact cameras you can always have by your side. So I’m a total mark for the Ricoh GR IV Monochrome, a fixed-lens camera that can’t zoom and can’t record color — at all. It’s a formula that makes the average person ask, “Why?”

I’ve tested the GR IV Monochrome for over a month, taking it with me everywhere and photographing everything. Let me explain how this pricey little point-and-shoot is likely to go down as one of my all-time-favorite cameras.

$2197

The Good

  • Excellent black-and-white image quality
  • Everything great about the standard GR IV: sharp lens, small size, solid focusing
  • Fantastic high-ISO noise performance
  • Limiting yourself to black and white has creative benefits

The Bad

  • Expensive for a Ricoh GR
  • Face / eye tracking autofocus pales in comparison to the bigger camera brands
  • Short battery life (about 200-ish shots)

Ricoh GRs are some of the most unassuming, no-frills cameras around, and they have been since their conception in the film days. In the digital era, they’re pocket-size point-and-shoots with a large APS-C sensor permanently attached to a fixed focal length lens. If you’re familiar with Fujifilm’s popular X100 line, it’s like trimming one of those down to the bare minimum — that means no viewfinder and no fancy aperture ring. The X100 and other coveted street cameras like Leicas offer vintage-style shooting and double as lifestyle accessories or shoulder-carried jewelry (with prices to match). But a Ricoh GR is purely a shooter’s camera, with unabashedly modern methods of being used. Atop the camera is a typical mode dial, with customizable user presets, not an old-timey shutter speed dial.

The GR IV Monochrome takes last year’s Ricoh GR IV, strips out the color filter from the sensor, and replaces its built-in ND filter with a red filter (for one-click contrast adjustment purely using optics). Functionally, the alteration to the sensor gives the GR Monochrome an elevated ISO range of 160 to 409,600 and makes it better in low-light shooting (because color noise looks worse at high ISO than pure luminance grain). It maintains the upgrades established with the GR IV: improved autofocusing for its 28mm-equivalent f/2.8 lens, a 26-megapixel APS-C sensor, and 53GB of internal storage (supported by a microSD card slot).

1/15
The $120 Ricoh GF-2 add-on flash is a great addition for the camera. It’s best for close-up subjects, but it creates a nice high-key look in black and white.

Using the GR IV Monochrome feels just like the standard GR IV, with key functions that help it thrive in impromptu street-style shooting. It powers on and is ready to shoot in less than one second, and at any moment you can quickly full-press the shutter to forgo autofocusing and take a shot at a preset focus distance. Ricoh calls this Snap Focus, and it allows you to easily shoot from the hip with zone focusing — a staple of street photographers. The GR is all about spontaneity. Its autofocus system has face and eye detection, but it’s just a serviceable helper. The main way to use the GR is with single-point focusing and quickly moving it around the touchscreen. Many hardcore photographers will loathe its lack of an electronic viewfinder, but I’ve come to terms with its forgoing one for the sake of size.

But being forced into a black-and-white view of the world through this camera’s LCD is where the real magic happens. Any digital camera can be set to black-and-white mode, but not having the choice pushes you to look more intently at light and tonality. I pay extra attention to my compositions and seek out textures and tones I might ignore when shooting color. I know the camera can’t see color, so I mentally adjust my eye and my creativity to match — knowing there’s no bailout or reverting back to color in post. A more disciplined shooter may not feel they need all that, but I’ve shot enough on the GR IV Monochrome, other black-and-white-only cameras, and film cameras to know that I’m feasting when working with some limitations.

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ISO 8000, 1/200s, f/2.8.

That’s the same ethos that drives people to go back to analog photography and digicams, or use toy-like cameras, but the GR IV Monochrome also unlocks the ability to shoot at extravagantly high ISOs in just about any light. The f/2.8 maximum aperture of the GR’s lens isn’t as fast as the f/1.7 and f/2 lenses of the Leica Q and Fujifilm X100 cameras of the world, but it’s fast enough when you barely notice much noise until ISO 25,600 and even a six-digit ISO is perfectly usable (even before denoising in post-processing software).

The other big way the GR IV sets itself apart from its Leica and Fujifilm competitors is that this camera is actually pocketable. I have ventured out of the house many times with my personal Leica Q2 slung over my shoulder, sans camera bag, ready to go on a little photo adventure or capture memories with family or friends. But it’s even easier to drop a Ricoh GR into a purse, diaper bag, or even a jacket / rear pants pocket. It turns any outing or errand into an opportunity to dabble in your creativity. These are snapshot-y moments that would usually be reserved for the camera you always have with you: your phone. But with the GR IV Monochrome, I feel more empowered and motivated to create something special and purposeful.

1/31

Here are some comparison photos between the GR IV Monochrome and the standard GR IV, including a full-range ISO test. ISO 200, 1/4s, f/5.6.

Am I creating art at the grocery store that’s worthy of the white walls of a Chelsea gallery? No. But seeing my own personal world through a black-and-white lens of such quality is enchanting. And there’s nothing wrong with feeling a little “artsy” sometimes, even if you’re just auditioning for the art critic in your own head.

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The mundanity of our humdrum lives feels elevated when given the timeless quality of black and white. Lately, it’s felt even more authentic to me and worthy of appreciation, since generative AI is making so much of our world feel fake. It’s now commonplace to doubt everything we see as a possible deepfake or a dubious con — even from our own government. Black-and-white imagery still feels precious and real, at least as long as the AI-obsessed tech platforms don’t focus their Eye of Sauron of Enshittification on this niche of the medium.

A direct comparison of two images taken from our ISO test gallery. Both are taken at ISO 204800, one with the GR IV Monochrome and one with the GR IV. The Monochrome version is grainy, but it’s a usable image. The color version is a mess, and won’t look as good when converted to black and white.

To be fair, cameras that can’t shoot color aren’t new. Leica has been making its Monochrom variants of Q and M cameras for nearly 14 years. But priced at nearly $8,000 to $11,000 and up, they’re mostly unattainable to an average enthusiast. At $2,199.95, the GR IV Monochrome isn’t cheap but it’s much more grounded and feasible to own one without it being your only possession. And frankly, it’s less hoity-toity and snobbish when your second, third, or fourth camera — the “artsy” one — doesn’t cost more than a used car.

1/34

ISO 320, 1/800, f/3.2.

I’d be lying if I said that’s not part of why I dig the GR IV Monochrome so much. I’d love to one day personally own a Leica Monochrom of some sort, but it’s hard not to opt for the catch-all color camera when you’re spending that kind of money (hence why I own a Leica Q2 and not a Q2 Monochrom). But since my brain was broken by Leica and pro-level mirrorless system prices years ago, I can simultaneously look at the GR IV Monochrome and think, “$2,200? That’s not bad,” and also “GR cameras used to be like 900 bucks — what gives?”

It’s the everyday companion status of the GR IV Monochrome that makes it extra-extra special. With this little guy in your pocket, with that kind of image quality and light gathering potential, it feels like a permission slip to capture a sense of authentic wonder wherever you go. The standard GR IV is the logical version to get, allowing you to capture the vibrancy of your world. But the more hardcore GR IV Monochrome brings the romance, gritty realism, and magic.

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Photography by Antonio G. Di Benedetto / The Verge

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