Wild berries, forest floor, bright red cherries, minerality, morel mushrooms, floral notes, cassis and a lot more minerality… nothing on earth can produce the magically ethereal aromas that great Pinot Noir wines can evoke. The wine has broken more hearts than most, as once one experiences one of those bottles that transcends the drinker, they spend the rest of their lives chasing other bottles that live in the shadow of its outstanding predecessor. It is a very challenging grape variety both to grow and handle in the winery, and things can go south with it very quickly. Hence, only those who are madly in love with the grape are crazy enough to try to reach for that elusive dream – to make life-changing Pinot Noir wines.

It was life-changing for Julien Howsepian, who graduated from U.C. Davis with a Bachelor of Science in Viticulture & Enology in 2008 and worked at various places to find where he belonged in the wine world. In 2012, he ended up at Kosta Browne, located in Sebastopol, in the Russian River Valley AVA, in Sonoma County, California. There, he was introduced to wines that went beyond his imagination, and he finally found his home, a home where he eventually became the winemaker.

And it has become a great match, as Kosta Browne has, through the years, zeroed in on the intricacies of each vineyard and expressed the nuances of specific plots. It takes a particular individual to have the drive and focus to oversee all the key decisions in their vineyards and be on top of critical moments in the various winemaking stages of each vessel of wine. But through the years, Kosta Browne has become relentless in their pursuit of perfection and Julien is the right person for the job as his passion has no limits.

And now, Julien is given a second jolt of energy that is only equaled to his early days at Kosta Browne, as they are making wines in Burgundy through a very special partnership with a multi-generational Burgundy négociant, and Julien is in heaven taking in all the wisdom from the motherland of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The Journey Towards Elegance

Kosta Browne Winery might have started off humbly with two co-workers, Michael Browne and Dan Kosta, who worked for the legendary Sonoma restaurant John Ash & Co., placing their tip money in a jar to buy their first grapes to make wine, but they went on to establish Kosta Browne in 1997 and then, to their surprise, received high scores for their 2003 Pinot Noirs. Yet, with any colossal success, there can always be backlash, with some criticizing the higher alcohol levels. Yet, Michael Browne has noted that the higher alcohol was initially an accident as he “couldn’t get ahead of the picking schedule,” and so they harvested a lot later than they intended; ironically, it was a great success for the times as high-end tasters of Pinot Noir had never tasted anything like it. Through time, Michael and Dan started to move towards a more elegant, fresher style of Pinot Noir without losing its depth and complexity.

And now, under new ownership with Julien at the helm, Kosta Browne has become laser-focused on precision in their farming practices for the premium vineyards they either own, lease or have contracts to purchase fruit, and finding a balance between having a low intervention approach when it comes to winemaking that involves native fermentations yet having an eagle eye over each vessel, as sometimes the temperature needs a slight bit of raising or lowering. Or in a few cases, when it seems like the fermentation is slowing down, Julien and his team will bring that vessel outside, and for reasons that go beyond the temperature change, it perks right up in the fresh air, surrounded by nature. It is all part of their mission for “terroir-driven wines” that truly speak to their mantra: root-to-bottle.

Visiting The Motherland

A few years back, the leadership at Kosta Browne wanted to learn more about European wines, so they focused on tasting and discussing the top wine regions. After the devastating 2020 California fires, they decided they would get a lot more serious about potentially making wines in Europe, so they traveled there to immerse themselves in a few of the wine regions that most piqued their interest.

Julien said they were “blown away” by Europe’s history and way of life, and many wine regions greatly impressed them, yet the wines of Burgundy, France, took them to a level that they could only imagine. And it was fitting that such a legendary Pinot Noir wine producer would try to be part of the motherland of this very special red grape variety. But it was far from easy, as Burgundians are well-known for not liking outsiders, as they do not want their way of life of focusing on small plots with multi-generational wine families to ever change. But there has already been the forming of cracks in their way of life with families not being able to afford the property taxes, and soon there will be hard decisions of either allowing large French conglomerates to continue to buy vineyards or allow smaller foreign operations to purchase wine estates.

But there is another alternative, one that allows growers to keep their land while making a livable income that allows multi-generational producers to maintain a viable business that future generations will be eager to take over, and that is for foreigners to purchase grapes, or in some cases, purchase already made wine. And that is precisely what Kosta Browne did.

The leadership at Kosta Browne has a relationship with a Burgundy négociant/producer, who not only sources grapes to make his own wine but also sources wine from small family wineries, yet he will still play an essential part in aging the wine in oak. This Burgundy négociant/producer has asked to be kept anonymous, as it is looked down upon to work with foreigners in Burgundy. After going through many samples, they started buying wines already made by this Burgundy colleague in 2020. In 2022, Kosta Browne bought their own grapes, vinified different lots in their colleague’s winery and aged in his cellar. Today, they are selling their 2022 Burgundy wines to their customers, bringing the motherland of Pinot Noir to California – a place known for several different outstanding expressions of the grape from distinctively diverse regions throughout the state.

It has become a debate in recent times if keeping foreigners from purchasing Burgundy estates really helps the locals, as French conglomerates have been paying a fortune for famous vineyards and producers, raising the cost of living for those in the area as property taxes have become astronomical over time. But, at least in this case, the leadership of Kosta Browne has a relationship with someone in Burgundy who has been sourcing wine and making it for generations. Julien was quick to point out that they are being as respectful as possible by taking it slow, first buying already made wine, learning through tasting and spending time in their counterpart’s Burgundy wine cellar, then purchasing grapes that they made into wine themselves and looking for lesser-known gems that, through their Pinot Noir experience, will make great wine with a strong sense of terroir, a.k.a. place, as they wanted to prove their commitment before they start going after legendary vineyards.

Julien is fascinated by all facets of making wine in Burgundy and he always asks their partner in Burgundy about every little thing as there are so many differences. He noticed that there was always a “02” at the end of all the lot numbers for the Kosta Browne barrels of wines, so one day, he asked him about it. His Burgundy partner told him that the “02” at the end indicates that it is for Kosta Browne and it seemed to Julien to represent a second spark that reinvigorated this multi-generational négociant/wine producer. The Burgundy Kosta Browne project started in the middle of the pandemic when times were really tough for their Burgundy partner and even though he was initially weary of getting involved with a foreign wine producer, it became “his oxygen” injecting a “jolt of fresh energy.”

Sometimes, one has to go through the toughest times to realize that the unthinkable option is the best for the future for oneself and one’s family, as well as the community one adores. When the world is falling apart, all the illogical perceptions fall away, leaving only what matters standing, and that which matters is no longer veiled by those perceptions. Hence, it becomes a shining light for those willing to take the leap for a better tomorrow.

Kosta Browne makes excellent Pinot Noir wines but their Chardonnay wines have come a long way with an intense sense of minerality, freshness and overall elegance. The two wines below are made from 100% Chardonnay, which ideally expresses all those attributes, and they have also added a Chablis Premier Cru to their Burgundy to their portfolio.

2021 Kosta Browne, Sparkling Wine, Blanc de Blancs, Keefer Ranch Single Vineyard, Russian River Valley, California: 100% Chardonnay. This wine is unfiltered and showcases Kosta Browne’s commitment to minimalistic winemaking, which is made using the Champenoise method. 20% aged in Austrian oak foudre and 9% new French oak. Enchanting aromas of citrus oil, wet stones and a delicate floral notes of white flowers that has a creamy texture and peach cobbler flavors with very fine bubbles that lightly tickle the palate lifted by crisp acidity.

2022 Kosta Browne, Chardonnay, El Diablo Vineyard, Russian River Valley, California: 100% Chardonnay with 100% whole cluster direct pressed with 46% new French oak. Lower yields give more concentration, while the higher elevation, averaging around 500 feet, retains high acidity. Delectable notes of spiced toast and lemon curd with underlying notes of minerality with nectarine crumble and quince paste with the rich flavors perfectly balanced by marked acidity and a long, flavorful finish with lots of vibrant tension.

California Single Vineyard Pinot Noir wines are listed below:

2022 Kosta Browne, Pinot Noir, Gap’s Crown Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. This is Kosta Browne’s flagship wine, with them owning 30 acres of the Gap’s Crown Vineyard at various elevation levels. Anise seed cookie aromas entice the drinker to take a sip with hints of wild tarragon, adding another dimension to this wine with deep flavors of black forest tiramisu topped with fresh red cherries on the palate with some tannic structure, giving lift and drive to this mesmerizing beauty.

2022 Kosta Browne, Pinot Noir, Treehouse Estate Single Vineyard, Russian River Valley, California: 100% Pinot Noir. Treehouse is a 14-acre Russian River Valley estate single vineyard within the sub-region of Green Valley. Kosta Browne attained a 30-year lease on it and it is tucked away among massive redwoods and bordered by striking cypress trees. Intense minerality on the nose and exciting hints of truffle and violets give it an epic bouquet that combines two intoxicating fragrances that has a brilliant acidity that lights up this wine, as Green Valley is one of the cooler sub-regions in Russian River Valley, with raspberry liqueur flavors that has impeccably chiseled tannins that is like delicate lace.

California Appellation Pinot Noir wines are listed below:

2022 Kosta Browne, Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills, California: 100% Pinot Noir. Despite California already having some outstanding wine regions such as Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley, by the time Sta.Rita Hills, in the Central Coast, was brought to the attention of wine drinkers, yet it still quickly became a favorite among Pinot Noir enthusiasts. A cool climate area with plenty of sunshine, yet the fog and intense winds, which also help to lower the chance of fungal diseases, helps to keep temperatures cool, allowing for a longer growing season. This is an incredibly excellent example of why people love Sta. Rita Hills as it is really juicy with lots of fresh, pristine fruit balanced by mouthwatering acidity and round, silky tannins that has delicious flavors of blueberry muffins, crushed rocks and a hint of orange zest.

2022 Kosta Browne, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, California: 100% Pinot Noir. Russian River Valley Pinot Noir took the world by storm with its irresistible lushness and decadently rich flavors. Still, there are a lot more nuanced differences among the different sub-regions within Russian River Valley that are sometimes referred to as “neighborhoods,” and even within those neighborhoods, there can be distinctive differences among the vineyards. Some can have a lot more acidity and definition than others. This wine is a blend of eight different vineyards that give it an overall harmonious quality that first starts with a multilayered nose of cinnamon stick, blackberry compote and mossy bark with tannins that are seamlessly integrated creating a texture that is lush in its tactile expression yet the fresh acidity gives a vibrancy that makes this luxurious experience one filled with a tremendous amount of vitality.

Burgundy Pinot Noir wines are listed below:

2022 Kosta Browne, Beaune Premier, Burgundy, France: 100% Pinot Noir. A blend of Premier Cru vineyards – there are only 42 Premier Crus in the village of Beaune. Enchanting aromas that slowly unfurl in the glass with notes of rose petals, brambly fruit and red cherries laced with a fantastic saline minerality note with a supple texture and a long, expressive finish.

2022 Kosta Browne, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Burgundy, France: 100% Pinot Noir. A village-designated wine that is a blend of various vineyards in Nuits-Saint-Georges, which is known to make darker and bigger wines than the more delicate wines from the village of Beaune. Despite this being a village level, it has a strong sense of place with forest floor, wild morels and crumbled limestone that is fleshed out by ripe black cherries with more prominent tannins than the Beaune, yet they are still refined in quality and just give a bit more boldness on the palate.