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Moo Deng is a worldwide phenomenon. How long can this global love affair last?

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Moo Deng is a worldwide phenomenon. How long can this global love affair last?

Like most babies, Moo Deng spends a lot of her time sleeping.

But for a few hours a day, the 4-month-old pygmy hippo springs to life, gumming on leaves, zooming around the compound and tossing her head in a silent, open-mouthed roar.

These moments, captured by her zookeeper at the Khao Kheow Open Zoo, a two-hour drive south of Bangkok, and shared on social media, have turned her into a global phenomenon — an “It Girl” beloved for her sporadic fits of energy and proclivity for snapping toothlessly at hoses and knees.

Named for a Thai dish that means “bouncy pork,” Moo Deng has become the muse for cakes, clothing, tattoos and fireworks. Make-up tutorials demonstrate how to get her baby-pink cheeks and dewy skin. Partygoers this year dressed up as the pygmy hippo for Halloween. So did comedian Bowen Yang on “Saturday Night Live.”

Her remote home — struggling post-pandemic — has been transformed into a must-see attraction for international visitors and locals alike.

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When Dong Kim, a 29-year-old travel blogger, visited in October, the excited hordes reminded him less of a zoo than a South American soccer game or a Black Friday door-buster sale.

Atthapon Nundee, the 31-year-old zookeeper who makes viral videos of Moo Deng, sprays the pygymy hippo and her mother with water.

(Lauren DeCicca / Getty Images)

“I’ve gone to the Great Wall, I’ve been to the Colosseum, I’ve been to Christ the Redeemer in Rio. But [this] was by far the longest line I have ever waited in,” he said. “It literally felt like people would die for this hippo.”

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But Moo Deng’s sudden celebrity was not merely a result of cute animal worship or the fact that the pygmy hippo, native to West Africa, is an endangered species. While she was gestating in her mother’s womb, a 31-year-old zookeeper was hatching a plan to make her a star — tapping into a worldwide culture well-versed in capitalizing on internet virality — and save the financially strapped zoo while he was at it.

Today Moo Deng is the most famous animal on the planet — for now.

Nearly 175 years before Moo Deng took the internet by storm, another exotic hippo helped save the world’s first modern zoo.

The London Zoo began in 1828 as a members-only community, but opened to the public in 1847 in an effort to earn enough money to stay afloat. Visitors grew bored until Obaysch, named after an island in the Nile where he was captured, arrived three years later. The first hippo seen in Europe since the Roman Empire, Obaysch doubled annual attendance, drawing up to 10,000 visitors every day.

The baby pygmy hippo Moo Deng plays with a zookeeper

Baby hippo Moo Deng plays with a zookeeper in the Khao Kheow Open Zoo in September.

(Sakchai Lalit / Associated Press)

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“They had to figure out a way to keep the public interested,” said Robert Young, professor of wildlife conservation at the University of Salford in England. “The thing they came up with … celebrity animals.”

Fans quickly grew attached to their favorites. When the zoo sold Jumbo the Elephant to P.T. Barnum in 1882, people protested in the streets. A black bear named Winnipeg became the inspiration for Winnie the Pooh. Guy, a western lowland gorilla, received hundreds of birthday cards every year.

In the 20th century, animals in the news (Sea Biscuit) and movies and TV shows (Lassie, Punxsutawney Phil) captured the hearts of millions. Recently, social media has hastened the celebrity of animals such as Grumpy Cat and JiffPom the Pomeranian.

In 2017, Fiona the hippo went viral as the internet watched her fight to survive infancy. She became the biggest attraction at the Cincinnati Zoo, inspiring her own ice cream flavor and children’s book.

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Leasing giant pandas from China has become another strategy to draw visitors. But foot traffic subsides after two years, Young said, while zoos spend hundreds of thousands of dollars a year on bamboo that the pandas sometimes refuse. Pygmy hippos can be housed and supported at a much lower cost.

Huanyuan Zhang, a college lecturer at the University of Oxford who studies West African forest ecology, was surprised to see a sudden uptick this year in references to his research. He was even more perplexed to discover the cause was a pygmy hippo born more than 6,000 miles from its native land.

“It just feels like, out of many friends, one of your normal friends suddenly becomes a celebrity,” said Zhang, who hopes that the world’s love for Moo Deng will raise awareness of deforestation and endangered species. There are fewer than 2,500 pygmy hippos alive today compared with 12,000 in 1982.

Male panda Yun Chuan

Male panda Yun Chuan was introduced to the public at the San Diego Zoo on Aug. 8. He and Xin Bao, a female panda, are the first giant pandas to enter the United States in 21 years.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

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Young said zoos often rely on ambassador animals to bring attention to lesser-known species. But social media, he noted, will always favor the Moo Dengs of the world.

“The big issue,” he said, “is how do you get people interested in the uglies? Getting people to want to save a gorilla is quite easy. You try and get people to want to save the aye-aye, possibly the ugliest primate on the planet, it’s a very different situation.”

Four years after the pandemic choked off travel, the Khao Kheow Open Zoo had yet to recover from the financial devastation. With only a couple of thousand visitors per day, the budget to maintain the 2,000-acre zoo was stretched to its limits. Anticipating the birth of Moo Deng, zookeeper Atthapon Nundee sensed an opportunity.

Nundee had studied to become an electrician, but his first job out of college was driving a 10-wheeler truck around the country. After three years, he started looking for something closer to home. The zoo, a five-minute commute, had an opening.

Zoo visitors holding up cellphones and cheering

Fans cheer as they see Moo Deng run around her enclosure at the Khao Kheow Open Zoo in November.

(Lauren DeCicca / Getty Images)

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Over the next eight years, Nundee cared for baby hippos including two of Moo Deng’s siblings: Moo Wan and Moo Tun, also named after Thai pork dishes. Though Moo Deng is known for her spunky attitude, Nundee said her siblings were just as playful. So with one more on the way, Nundee was ready.

“I know when they become funny, how to set up the camera, which angle to take to see when it’s cute,” he said. “Any animal can become famous like Moo Deng. It’s just about how friendly you are with the animal.”

Moo Deng’s celebrity did not start at the moment of birth. To his dismay, Nundee discovered her crawling around the morning of July 10, placenta still attached. Their star had been born, and no one was there to document it.

But in August, the zoo posted a poll online asking the public to help choose her name. Nundee’s close-ups of her splashing in the water and snapping at the air started circulating on social media. Admirers called her sweet, or feisty, or filled with silent rage. Japanese residents working at the local industrial park shared their fan art, boosting Moo Deng’s popularity in Asia before her stardom spread west.

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By September, the meme-ification of Moo Deng caught the attention of Molly Swindall, an influencer who posts about baby animals and attending Taylor Swift concerts. The 29-year-old was so enchanted that, in early October, she flew more than 18 hours to Thailand, stood at Moo Deng’s enclosure for four hours, and then returned to New York the next day.

“She’s absolutely iconic,” Swindall said. “Whether it’s a leaf being stuck to her face for a couple hours, or her moon-walking or biting knees, or running around with rage, she just makes you laugh.”

Moo Deng bites at the knee of a zookeeper

Moo Deng was so popular the zoo had to impose time limits for viewing.

(Sakchai Lalit / Associated Press)

By the time she returned for a second visit, the zoo had implemented a five-minute limit for spectators, after some were caught tossing water and shells to try and rouse Moo Deng. Swindall still went through the queue three times, waiting about 30 to 40 minutes each round.

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The baby hippo’s economic impact has spread far beyond the confines of the sprawling zoo in the Chonburi province.

Miles before the entrance, posters advertise Moo Deng ice cream. The restaurants in the area fill up at lunch time, and on weekends, makeshift stalls sell snacks along the road. The influx of tourists has boosted local incomes by 50% or more, nearby workers said. The month that Moo Deng was born, the zoo had fewer than 85,000 visitors. In October, total attendance rose to 300,000.

Decha Sontanawan, 59, spent about $1,000 to turn an old truck into a merchandise stall for Moo Deng pillows, keychains and T-shirts to sell outside the zoo. He recouped his investment within four days.

Decha Sontanawan holds pillows with Moo Deng illustrations

Decha Sontanawan sells Moo Deng pillows outside the Khao Kheow Open Zoo.

(Lauren DeCicca / Getty Images)

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Now Sontanawan, his wife, his daughter and his son-in-law, who all work at the zoo, take turns manning the Moo Deng truck on their days off. “Everything is better. Everything’s recovered, everything’s booming,” he said.

Skyrocketing demand has transformed Moo Deng into a brand. About 70 companies have paid the zoo for the rights to print Moo Deng on products such as pajamas, pet food and squeezable condensed milk. A supermarket chain launched its own Moo Deng-themed coconut juice after signing a contract that Monday afternoon, and a Thai business newspaper has reported that collaborations are expected to generate as much as $4.3 million by March.

The money now accounts for 30% of revenue, according to Narongwit Chodchoy, the zoo director, with proceeds going to zoo habitats and living conditions, as well as flood victims in Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand.

“We have to try to keep her fame and reputation going,” he said, although, at some point Moo Deng will lose some of her youthful “bounciness,” and thus some of her charm.

That’s why the zoo is already pursuing its next viral hit. A pair of two-toed sloths is on the way, in the hopes that with three — two males and one female— the zoo will produce another small star. If so, the baby also will be managed by Moo Deng’s keeper, who has enjoyed his own rise in fame, if not in pay.

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For now, Moo Deng is still going strong. Other baby pygmy hippos born this year in Sydney, Berlin and Edinburgh, have failed to match her allure. The Edinburgh Zoo promoted its newborn pygmy hippo Haggis this month as a rival to Moo Deng’s famed cuteness. It later apologized for pitting the babies against each other.

Moo Deng playing in water

Skyrocketing demand has transformed Moo Deng into a brand. About 70 companies have paid the zoo for the rights to print Moo Deng on products such as pajamas, pet food and squeezable condensed milk.

(Sakchai Lalit / Associated Press)

When a common hippo was born in Eastern Thailand last month, she was named by an online poll too, and christened Hom Daeng, the Thai word for “Shallot.” Pygmy hippo fans couldn’t help but compare. One Facebook user complained that Hom Daeng was too dry, unlike Moo Deng, who appears perpetually moist in photos.

“This one has no aura at all,” another critic wrote. “It’s like comparing a celebrity to an ordinary person.”

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Special correspondent Poypiti Amatatham in Bangkok contributed to this report.

Lifestyle

Hunker down with these 13 mysteries and thrillers from 2025

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Hunker down with these 13 mysteries and thrillers from 2025

Mysteries and thrillers are enjoyable no matter the season, but there’s something extra satisfying about curling up in the winter with a warm drink and an all-engrossing read. The 13 (spooked already?) books in this list, recommended by NPR staff and critics, fit the bill: stalkers, witchcraft, missing persons, suburban horror — there’s something here for every thrill-seeker. And for more nail-biters, check out Books We Love, our annual year-end reading guide.

All the Other Mothers Hate Me, by Sarah Harman

All the Other Mothers Hate Me, by Sarah Harman

This book got me out of a reading rut! It’s about a mom who is struggling to keep her life together – while simultaneously trying to solve the mystery of her son’s missing classmate. It’s got fun twists and turns and characters who surprise you. Very plot driven and definitely hard to put down. — Elissa Nadworny, correspondent

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Audition, by Katie Kitamura

Audition, by Katie Kitamura

I guess I could explain the plot to you: An actress meets up with a man who is convinced she’s his mother. It turns out she’s not. I think? Maybe she is? Or, maybe she’s not but actually kind of is? What is a mother? The most impressive thing about this Booker Prize finalist is how Katie Kitamura plays with the narrative and toys with the reader without being overly clever about it all. She’s stingy with details and answers, but generous with intrigue and depth. — Andrew Limbong, correspondent, Culture Desk and host, Book of the Day

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The Buffalo Hunter Hunter, by Stephen Graham Jones

The Buffalo Hunter Hunter, by Stephen Graham Jones

The Buffalo Hunter Hunter is many things: a clever nesting doll of narratives, a sanguine revenge thriller stitched inside the corpse of an old vampire yarn, and a fearsome accounting of America’s murderous past. Lucky for us, Stephen Graham Jones has bound it all together with a hero (antihero?) for the ages — a man from the Blackfeet tribe, aptly named Good Stab, who is determined to right the wrongs of the past, even if it takes him a few lifetimes. — Cory Turner, correspondent and senior editor, Education

Death of the Author, by Nnedi Okorafor

Death of the Author, by Nnedi Okorafor

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This book will keep you guessing until the last chapter. The plot jumps back and forth between two connected stories: one about a human author and one about a robot obsessed with human stories. The book tackles some big themes, including fame and immigrant identity. But one of my favorite things about it is that the robot storyline is absolutely gripping. I couldn’t put this book down, and thank goodness I didn’t, or I would have missed the final twist! — Rebecca Hersher, correspondent, Climate Desk

Elita, by Kirsten Sundberg Lunstrum

Elita, by Kirsten Sundberg Lunstrum

This absorbing midcentury American take on Nordic noir opens with two men apprehending a seemingly feral girl on Elita, a tiny island in the Puget Sound that for years has been home only to a federal men’s prison. Kirsten Sundberg Lunstrum elevates the moody mystery with her choice of protagonist – Bernadette Baston, a scholar of child development and single mother, who consults on the girl’s case. Bernadette is fascinated by the child’s fierce independence in a world that sets stark constraints on the lives of women and girls. She must fight for her own independence in order to uncover the girl’s origins in this slow-burn study of insular communities and working motherhood. — Kristen Martin, book critic and author of The Sun Won’t Come Out Tomorrow: The Dark History of American Orphanhood

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Heartwood, by Amity Gaige

Heartwood, by Amity Gaige

Heartwood is a perfect thriller for people who don’t like thrillers (🙋‍♀). A nurse nicknamed Sparrow who is trying to move past the trauma of working during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic disappears while hiking the Appalachian Trail. The narration alternates among three women: a state game warden leading the search, a lonely retiree who becomes very invested and the missing woman herself, whose plight is told via the journal that keeps her going while lost. Heartwood is equal parts gripping and moving, filled with empathy and hope — not just for Sparrow’s safe return but for human connection overall. — Arielle Retting, senior editor, Newsroom

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Julie Chan Is Dead, by Liann Zhang

Julie Chan Is Dead, by Liann Zhang

Julie and her estranged twin, Chloe, may look identical, but that’s where the similarities end. Julie works at a supermarket, while her sister revels in the love of millions as a social media influencer. But when Chloe dies, Julie realizes she can pass for her twin – if people don’t look too closely. What follows is a thrilling, haunting look at the upkeep of pretending to be someone you’re not, whether on-screen or in person. As Julie goes to brow-raising lengths to keep up the farce and maintain her newfound audience’s love, you’ll find yourself asking whether she has a limit. — Hafsa Fathima, assistant producer, Pop Culture Happy Hour

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The Naming of the Birds, by Paraic O’Donnell

The Naming of the Birds, by Paraic O’Donnell

This Victorian mystery novel is Dickens meets Sherlock Holmes meets La Femme Nikita, and it wears its genre conventions proudly. The heroes: a brilliant, gruff police officer and his bumbling assistant, aided by a plucky lady journalist. The crimes: elaborate serial murders of insignificant elderly men. The killings are connected to the book’s prologue, a harrowing tale of mistreated orphans seemingly in training to be assassins. The reader knows this, but the detectives do not, giving the events a frisson of dramatic irony as the body count ticks up. — Holly J. Morris, digital trainer

Old Soul, by Susan Barker

Old Soul, by Susan Barker

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Jake and Mariko meet when they both miss their flight out of Osaka and decide to share a meal. Later, drunk, Mariko tells Jake about how her twin brother died, and Jake is eerily reminded of a beloved friend’s strange death. The deceased both began behaving differently shortly before they died, after meeting an exceptionally charming woman, and both had biological oddities discovered during their autopsies. Could it have been the same woman? If so, who is she? And what is she after? If you, too, are a sucker for books that follow a central mystery through the stories of seemingly disparate but ultimately interconnected characters, this one is a must. — Ilana Masad, book critic and author of Beings

The Stalker, by Paula Bomer

The Stalker, by Paula Bomer

The antihero of Paula Bomer’s novel is Doughty, a liar, misogynist and dyed-in-the-wool sociopath who manages to fail upward by preying on women who fall for his deceit. The novel chronicles his time in New York City, where he hurts everyone he can, with no semblance of guilt or even basic humanity. This is, in part, a darkly funny novel, and Bomer walks a fine line brilliantly – the moments of humor don’t detract from the book’s important themes. — Michael Schaub, book critic

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The Tokyo Suite, by Giovana Madalosso, translated by Bruna Dantas Lobato

The Tokyo Suite, by Giovana Madalosso, translated by Bruna Dantas Lobato

The dual narratives of The Tokyo Suite grip the reader right from the opening chapters, which alternate between the points of view of a mother distracted by her job as an executive and the nanny who kidnaps the exec’s daughter. As this two-hander unfolds, Giovana Madalosso plays with the reader’s sympathies as both protagonists entangle themselves in the consequences of their bad choices. By the end, you’re certain the only path forward is tragedy, but instead you’ll be left thinking about what happens beyond the pages long after you close the book. — Leland Cheuk, book critic and author of No Good Very Bad Asian

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Vantage Point, by Sara Sligar

Vantage Point, by Sara Sligar

A summer mystery with a rich, troubled family and a curse? Sign me up. Vantage Point is set on a secluded island in Maine and reads like a tech thriller with the soul of a gothic dynastic horror story. It’s told from the dual perspectives of Clara, the youngest member of the wealthy, politically connected and highly unlucky Wieland family, and Jess, Clara’s childhood best friend who’s married to Clara’s brother, Senate hopeful Teddy. When a series of deepfake videos targets Clara and then Jess, it feels as though the famous Wieland curse has come into the digital age. The book is a rich drama about friendship, class and inherited trauma — all in the package of a propulsive yarn. — Barrie Hardymon, senior editor, Investigations Unit

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Witchcraft for Wayward Girls, by Grady Hendrix

Witchcraft for Wayward Girls, by Grady Hendrix

In the 1970s, young women who got pregnant before marriage were sent to homes to have their babies away from prying eyes. It was like a magic trick — a practice in concealment, disappearance and forgetting. In a state of complete powerlessness, hidden away in the stifling heat of St. Augustine, Fla., Fern — not her real name, never give your real name — meets other young girls like herself. Then a visiting librarian gives Fern a book on witchcraft, and she learns what she is willing to give up in return for that power. — Christina Cala, senior producer, Code Switch

This is just a fraction of the 380+ titles we included in Books We Love this year. Click here to check out this year’s titles, or browse nearly 4,000 books from the last 13 years.

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An assortment of book covers from the 2025 edition of Books We Love.
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Strangers needed help near Mt. Whitney’s summit. Would we share our tent on a stormy night?

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Strangers needed help near Mt. Whitney’s summit. Would we share our tent on a stormy night?

It was August 2013, and we were clambering up the majestic and regal unrealness that is Mt. Whitney, a mountain both inviting and unforgiving in its margin for errors.

That was the first time we’d done it — my buddy Jesus, my buddy Fernando and me. They’re childhood friends of mine, and we were excited to try to bag the tallest mountain in the continental United States.

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Between a Rock is a Los Angeles Times series that shares survival stories from the California wilderness.

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We got into hiking in our early 20s. On weekends, we had nothing to do, so we started hiking bigger and longer. Eventually, we started thru-hiking, taking long-distance backpacking trips. We do a lot of international travel as well in terms of hiking.

We did a lot of conditioning hikes beforehand: Mt. Baldy, Gorgonio, Mt. Wilson, pretty much all the major peaks in Southern California. It’s hardly training, but we tried to condition our bodies to make sure they would be able to take the dramatic altitude climb and the cold temperatures.

Jesus got one of those Mt. Whitney books, and he was very well-read about the perils of Whitney. We were mindful to rest up beforehand and not stay up too late and also to carb load beforehand. A minor misstep or bout of ill-preparation comes with dire consequences, from the slightest of ankle sprains to bygone absent frostbitten fingers. It’s a no-nonsense endeavor up those 99 switchbacks.

We camped at Trail Camp, which has an approximate altitude of 12,000 feet. We didn’t do that single-day thing where you have to get up at 10 p.m. to begin to go to the summit.

When you get to a certain altitude at Whitney, there are little microclimates, so it’s really hard to anticipate what it’s going to be like. All you have to do is be a Boy Scout and plan for the worst, which we did. Everything was waterproof, and we had emergency supplies. We even planned in case we were stranded up there, which luckily we weren’t.

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The weather was bad, so there was a good chance of your tent being washed away. We were approached by two hikers who were — teeth clattering incessantly and clothes soaked — ill-equipped for the evening.

When we set up our tent, we had to do it on a boulder and high up, high ground. They didn’t, and their tent was washed away, which was why they had to share our tent. It was really the most dangerous part of that trip.

Three men seated on a boulder around the sign for Mt. Whitney.

Tommy Vinh Bui with friends Fernando, left, and Jesus, right, at the Mt. Whitney summit.

(Tommy Vinh Bui)

We brought a tent for three people, but because their tent had washed away and all their supplies were soaked, we invited them in — really, to save their lives.

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There are no strangers in the great outdoors. I’ve learned over the years that what’s mine is yours and usually likewise in the spirit of hiker comity. We look out for one another — we give water if someone is low on water, granola bars if someone is low. There’s a lot of plenitude on the trail.

So it was five grown adults in a tent made for three people, the polyester fabric straining and holding its shape by a thread. It was like a head-to-toe situation, kind of like sleepaway camp. We were in a very intimate situation.

It was hailing. Not huge softball-size hail, but good enough to have you running for cover. An icy gale blew incessantly in concert with a torrential deluge. If we had wind chimes, it would’ve been a Lollapalooza monsoon of surly zephyrs all the livelong night.

We saw tons of lightning strikes. Whitney is notorious for lightning. That’s a big part of why you have to get off the mountain before noon. Lightning becomes more frequent. You can see the atmospheric pressure drop pretty quick before noon.

With the braggadocio of youth, I was probably too dumb to be scared. Looking back on it now, under the circumstances, I should have been.

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One of the strangers had a Garmin, and he was pretty close to pressing that SOS button just to get off the mountain. We had headlamps and we were able to keep spirits up. I remember one guy was particularly not feeling great. He was a newlywed, and his new wife was going to kill him because of the situation.

It wasn’t super comfortable inside. My friends and I had alpine winter bags that were thick and insulated. But things were wet just from walking around and having the water build up inside our shoes and then by taking them off. We had waterproof jackets on, so the water beaded off.

My friends and I brought books, which we thought we’d be able to read at night. We tried to keep spirits up and enjoy ourselves. We knew it was perilous, but we also knew it was a unique experience.

By morning, the clouds parted, and we found we survived the meteorological maelstrom relatively intact. Our little makeshift ark hadn’t washed away in the night lagoon, much to our collective relief.

We were under-slept, over-fatigued and waterlogged. I guess we were so miserable that my group and the other hikers didn’t make attempts to give each other contact information. They were like, “We’re gonna hike back down” and wished us the best of luck.

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I want to say they weren’t from L.A., but maybe from Arizona. This was their first go at the mountain as well. They must have had some hiking experience but they may have just found themselves in over their heads. It would suck to make an attempt at Whitney and have to turn back because of weather. We’re only a couple miles from the summit.

We were able to get to the top before noon. And when you’re at the top, you’re above the clouds. You can see out to Badwater Basin in Death Valley. It looks like a Windows screensaver. It looks Photoshopped, like AI made it. It’s a beautiful tableau — panoramic, sublime, transcendent.

That’s why we go out there, to commune with nature. I don’t want to use the word “spiritual,” but it’s something akin to that. If the outdoors can be a religion, then hiking is Sunday service.

Whitney is not a mountain to be trifled with, and a lot of people lack respect for it and find themselves in dangerous situations. My advice? Perform meticulous research and try to have a contingency for all possible scenarios. Check the weather forecasts, download all the maps on your Garmin, notify people of your plans, pack enough food and water and have emergency supplies at the ready.

Be receptive to the restorative powers of the wilderness, and let it be a catalyst for your journey toward wellness and oneness with the great outdoors.

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Solvitur ambulando, amigos. Let the sky slather your spirit with serenity.

Tommy Vinh Bui is an L.A. County librarian and avid hiker and runner. He has competed in marathons around the world, including a recent race in Antarctica. He recently became a father to twins, a boy and a girl. This retelling has been edited and condensed for length and clarity.

Do you have a California wilderness survival story? We’d love to hear from you. Share your close encounter here.

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‘The Rest of Our Lives’ takes readers on a midlife crisis road trip

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‘The Rest of Our Lives’ takes readers on a midlife crisis road trip

The midlife crisis remains a rich vein for novelists, even as its sufferers skew ever older.

In Ben Markovits’ 12th novel,The Rest of Our Lives — which was a finalist for this year’s Booker Prize the narrator, 55-year-old Tom Layward, is trying to figure out what to do with his remaining time on this mortal coil. With his youngest child headed off to college, his health faltering, and both his marriage and law school teaching position on the rocks, he feels blocked by “undigested emotional material.”

So, what does he do? In the great American tradition, Markovits’ wayward Layward hits the road. After dropping off his daughter at college, he heads west into his past and what may be his sunset.

America’s literary highways are not quite bumper-to-bumper, but they are plenty crowded with middle-aged runaways fleeing lives that increasingly feel like a bad fit. Many are women, including the heroines of Anne Tyler’s Ladder of Years  and Miranda July’s All Fours. But there are men, too, like the hero of John Updike’s Rabbit, Run — the granddaddy of midlife crisis novels — which serves as a sort of template for Markovits’ novel (and, tellingly, is the subject of his narrator’s abandoned doctoral dissertation, which he tossed aside for the more dependable employment prospects of a law degree after meeting his “unusually beautiful” future wife, Amy.)

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We meet Tom and Amy on the cusp of empty nesting. This is not a happy prospect. Tom has been biding his time for the last dozen years, since he learned of Amy’s affair with a guy she knew from synagogue. This happened back when their daughter, Miriam, was six, and her older brother, Michael, was 12.

Their marriage has not improved in the intervening years. The early pages of this novel, a countdown of the Laywards’ last few days as a family unit before Miri matriculates, recalls an old magazine feature: “Can this marriage be saved?” One would think not. Amy, forever trying to provoke a reaction from her impassive husband, jabs repeatedly, “You really don’t care about anything, do you?”

Tom observes that staying in a long marriage requires acceptance of reduced expectations. He notes wryly: “It’s like being a Knicks fan.” (Like Markovits and Updike’s Rabbit Angstrom, Tom is a former basketball player. Amusingly, his description of each character includes a height estimate.)

Driving west, Tom has plenty of time to ponder his disappointments, and Amy’s. He notes that she had hoped he’d be more ambitious; she wanted him to accept a lucrative offer from a top litigation firm that would have paid for private school for their kids. Instead, Amy says, he chose to stay in his “dead end” job at Fordham Law, where he teaches a controversial class on hate crime. He is currently in hot water for his legal input for the defense in a case against an NBA owner for racial allegations. Amy’s take: “Tom loves to stand up for racists.”

Tom’s road trip takes him on a desultory odyssey visiting old friends and family. He finds their lives disheartening. In Pittsburgh, a grad school friend who became an English professor teaches “dead white men” and is having an affair with a graduate student. In South Bend, his younger brother is distressed over limited access to his kids after a divorce. In Denver, a college teammate urges him to see a guy at UCLA who wants to bring a case about systemic discrimination against white American basketball players.

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His old high school girlfriend, who leads a busy life in Las Vegas as a single, late-life parent, urges him to steer clear of the case. When she also tries to talk about his alarming health symptoms (puffiness, breathlessness), he stonewalls her. “I forgot what you’re like,” she tells him, eerily echoing Amy. “You don’t really care about anything.”

At each stop, Tom tries to put a good face on his trip by telling his hosts that he’s thinking of writing a book about pickup basketball across the country. He also confesses, “I may have left Amy.” “You may?” his brother says.

Tom exacerbates Amy’s longtime presentiment of abandonment by ignoring most of her calls. Periodically, he checks in late at night, and they circle around what’s going on. “God, you’re cold,” she says when his explanations leave her wanting. His response? “Okay.” When he confides that he’s feeling “a little adrift…I can’t seem to get a grip on anything,” she surprises him by responding, “Me neither.” It’s a start.

In a 2006 interview with Yale Daily News, Markovits’ alma mater, he said, “I like to write about what it is like to become happier, although no one has ever been able to spot happiness in my books.”

You don’t have to look too hard to spot glimmers of happiness behind the missteps and misconnects in this ultimately moving probe of life, love, family and marriage across years and miles.

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