Lifestyle
You don't 'hike' Fiery Furnace, Utah's exclusive maze of slot canyons. You get lost in it
“Is that the trail?” I asked Steve, my longtime adventuring buddy. Not out of frustration or worry. I was more amazed at how this trail was marked, which is hardly at all. So you know, Steve has led me off trail only once in 10 years along dozens of hikes. He’s that good as a navigator.
“Matt — any idea?” I asked my other friend, who was head down in his GPS app, trying to decipher the snaking mess that was our location against the supposed “trail.”
The official ranger-led hike is about two miles, but if you opt to explore on your own, your trek may be much longer.
(Blake Snow)
Before I move on, you need to understand that GPS works only within 10 feet of your actual position, which is pretty amazing for triangulating satellites that are thousands of miles away. But not quite amazing enough for those afraid of getting lost on one of the most exclusive hikes in America: Utah’s Fiery Furnace in Arches National Park. One wrong step here, and you’ll be backtracking, head scratching and disorientingly wondering whether you’ll ever find the trail again in this maze of red rock, slot canyons, towering arches, divisive fins, giant spires and blue skies.
And that’s the fun of it. Here’s what you need to know — what I wish I’d known — before visiting this mostly safe and contained playground for an afternoon or more.
Utah’s Fiery Furnace is a 30-minute drive from Moab, Utah. It’s one of the only protected wilderness areas in the national park system. Open to only 75 people a day (and no reservations longer than seven days out), it’s also one of the hardest park permits to score. Compared to other hikes, Fiery Furnace is more of a moonshot when it comes to crossing its Martian terrain. “Everyone but the park rangers get lost,” our guide told us during a pre-hike orientation. “Not even GPS will save you, so it’s best just to meander and go with the flow.”
She was right about all but one thing: Although GPS tracking in the popular AllTrails app spectacularly failed to keep us on path, it did help us get out eventually so we could make it to our next hike in Arches. But if I could have a redo, I would have accepted the guide’s advice and planed for more time and mindless wandering in this special place among an already special southern Utah.
Be sure to look up, down and all around as you walk through this otherworldly maze.
(Blake Snow)
Speaking of the orientation, it’s mandatory. After picking up your $10 permit, you’re required to enter a small conference room and watch a 10-minute video about what the hike demands in terms of water, following the so-called trails and complying with the strict environmental and preservation regulations. You’ll even be verbally tested on what you watched, and the rangers won’t let you leave until you get the answers right.
After that, you’re on your own. Literally and figuratively.
During our hike, our party of three encountered just three other groups in the three hours we were inside. We jokingly exchanged pleasantries and accepted that none of us knew where we were going. But we did offer helpful tips of where we had been. “There’s a cool arch back there… Watch out for the giant gap ahead… Stay to the left or you’ll dead-end at a cliff.”
I say Fiery Furnace is mostly safe because I had to jump a gap and nearly tripped into what would have been severe injury some 20 to 30 feet below. Whoops. It’s not necessarily a physically demanding or overly technical experience. But parts of the furnace are tricky, and I wouldn’t advise anyone in poor shape to go inside. But able adults and sure-footed children regularly make their way through. For everyone else, there’s a stunning view of the furnace from the oncoming road and official viewpoint.
The view on a trip to the Fiery Furnace canyon in Arches National Park, Utah. (Blake Snow)
Blue skies and red rocks inside Arches National Park, Utah. (Blake Snow)
The author, center, and his hiking pals made it out of Fiery Furnace in time for their next Utah trek.
(Blake Snow)
While hiking the furnace, you can expect several arches, a sea of balancing rocks and mushroom like toadstools, massive cliff walls, incredibly tight slot canyons, layers upon layers of sandstone fins that divide the landscape and even a few open spaces. There are deep canyons, dead ends, sweeping vistas of distant formations elsewhere in the park, and a deafening amount of silence.
My friends and I lunched in the spring shade of Surprise Arch, a natural stone arch sandwiched between two massive rock walls. I have no idea how it or any of us got here. But there we were, dining al fresco in this otherworldly place.
If venturing the unknown of Fiery Furnace all alone doesn’t appeal to you, park rangers offer guided tours several times a day to permitted guests.
For the lucky few who enter Fiery Furnace, my advice is this: Get rid of your GPS — at least until you’re ready to leave. Plan for a few extra hours inside, if not an entire day. Meander. Get lost. By all means hike — but don’t expect your average point to point or loop trail. You probably won’t see the whole area, and that’s a good thing. There’s reason to return and have an experience that’s entirely new.
The ranger was right. Just go inside and enjoy the view.
Lifestyle
Hungarian filmmaker Béla Tarr — known for bleak, existential movies — has died
Hungarian director Béla Tarr at the Berlin International Film Festival in 2011.
Andreas Rentz/Getty Images
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Andreas Rentz/Getty Images
Béla Tarr, the Hungarian arthouse director best known for his bleak, existential and challenging films, including Sátántangó and Werckmeister Harmonies, has died at the age of 70. The Hungarian Filmmakers’ Association shared a statement on Tuesday announcing Tarr’s passing after a serious illness, but did not specify further details.
Tarr was born in communist-era Hungary in 1955 and made his filmmaking debut in 1979 with Family Nest, the first of nine feature films that would culminate in his 2011 film The Turin Horse. Damnation, released in 1988 at the Berlin International Film Festival, was his first film to draw global acclaim, and launched Tarr from a little-known director of social dramas to a fixture on the international film festival circuit.
Tarr’s reputation for films tinged with misery and hard-heartedness, distinguished by black-and-white cinematography and unusually long sequences, only grew throughout the 1990s and 2000s, particularly after his 1994 film Sátántangó. The epic drama, following a Hungarian village facing the fallout of communism, is best known for its length, clocking in at seven-and-a-half hours.
Based on the novel by Hungarian writer László Krasznahorkai, who won the Nobel Prize in Literature last year and frequently collaborated with Tarr, the film became a touchstone for the “slow cinema” movement, with Tarr joining the ranks of directors such as Andrei Tarkovsky, Chantal Akerman and Theo Angelopoulos. Writer and critic Susan Sontag hailed Sátántangó as “devastating, enthralling for every minute of its seven hours.”
Tarr’s next breakthrough came in 2000 with his film Werckmeister Harmonies, the first of three movies co-directed by his partner, the editor Ágnes Hranitzky. Another loose adaptation of a Krasznahorkai novel, the film depicts the strange arrival of a circus in a small town in Hungary. With only 39 shots making up the film’s two-and-a-half-hour runtime, Tarr’s penchant for long takes was on full display.
Like Sátántangó, it was a major success with both critics and the arthouse crowd. Both films popularized Tarr’s style and drew the admiration of independent directors such as Jim Jarmusch and Gus Van Sant, the latter of which cited Tarr as a direct influence on his films: “They get so much closer to the real rhythms of life that it is like seeing the birth of a new cinema. He is one of the few genuinely visionary filmmakers.”
The actress Tilda Swinton is another admirer of Tarr’s, and starred in the filmmaker’s 2007 film The Man from London. At the premiere, Tarr announced that his next film would be his last. That 2011 film, The Turin Horse, was typically bleak but with an apocalyptic twist, following a man and his daughter as they face the end of the world. The film won the Grand Jury Prize at the Berlin International Film Festival.
After the release of The Turin Horse, Tarr opened an international film program in 2013 called film.factory as part of the Sarajevo Film Academy. He led and taught in the school for four years, inviting various filmmakers and actors to teach workshops and mentor students, including Swinton, Van Sant, Jarmusch, Juliette Binoche and Gael García Bernal.
In the last years of his life, he worked on a number of artistic projects, including an exhibition at a film museum in Amsterdam. He remained politically outspoken throughout his life, condemning the rise of nationalism and criticizing the government of Hungarian leader Viktor Orbán.
Lifestyle
Epic stretch of SoCal rainfall muddies roads, spurs beach advisories. When will it end?
California’s wet winter continued Sunday, with the heaviest rain occurring into the evening, and more precipitation forecast for Monday before tapering off on Tuesday, according to the National Weather Service.
A flood advisory was in effect for most of Los Angeles County until 10 p.m.
Los Angeles and Ventura counties’ coastal and valley regions could receive roughly half an inch to an inch more rain, with mountain areas getting one to two additional inches Sunday, officials said. The next two days will be lighter, said Robbie Munroe, a meteorologist at the weather service office in Oxnard.
Rains in Southern California have broken records this season, with some areas approaching average rain totals for an entire season. As of Sunday morning, the region had seen nearly 14 inches of rain since Oct. 1, more than three times the average of 4 inches for this time of year. An average rain season, which goes from July 1 to June 30, is 14.25 inches, officials said.
“There’s the potential that we’ll already meet our average rainfall for the entire 12-month period by later today if we end up getting half an inch or more of rain,” Munroe added.
The wet weather prompted multiple road closures over the weekend, including a 3.6-mile stretch of Topanga Canyon Boulevard between Pacific Coast Highway and Grand View Drive as well as State Route 33 between Fairview Road and Lockwood Valley Road in the Los Padres National Forest. The California Department of Transportation also closed all lanes along State Route 2 from 3.3 miles east of Newcomb’s Ranch to State Route 138 in Angeles National Forest.
Los Angeles County Department of Public Health officials say beachgoers should stay out of the water to avoid the higher bacteria levels brought on by rain.
After storms, especially near discharging storm drains, creeks and rivers, the water can be contaminated with E. coli, trash, chemicals and other public health hazards.
The advisory, which will be in effect until at least 4 p.m. Monday, could be extended if the rain continues.
In Ventura County on Sunday, the 101 Freeway was reopened after lanes were closed due to flooding Saturday. But there was at least one spinout as well as a vehicle stuck in mud on the highway Sunday, according to the National Weather Service. The freeway was also closed Saturday in Santa Barbara County in both directions near Goleta due to debris flows but reopened Sunday, according to Caltrans.
Santa Barbara Airport reopened and all commercial flights and fixed-wing aircraft were cleared for normal operations Sunday morning. The airport had shut down and grounded all flights Saturday due to flooded runways.
In Orange County early Sunday afternoon, firefighters rescued a man clinging to a section of a tunnel in cold, fast-moving water in a storm channel at Bolsa Avenue and Goldenwest Street in Westminster, according to fire officials.
A swift-water rescue team deployed a helicopter, lowered inflated firehoses and positioned an aerial ladder to allow responders to secure the man and bring him to safety before transporting him to a hospital for evaluation.
Heavy rains continued to batter Southern California mountain areas. Wrightwood in San Bernardino County — slammed recently with mud and debris — was closed Sunday except to residents as heavy equipment was brought in to clear mud and debris from roadways, the news-gathering organization OnScene reported.
After canceling live racing on New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day due to heavy showers, Santa Anita Park also called off events Saturday and Sunday.
After several atmospheric river systems have come through, familiar conditions are set to return to the region later this week.
“We’ll get a good break from the rain and it’ll let things dry out a little bit, and we may even be looking at Santa Ana conditions as we head into next weekend,” Munroe said. The weather will likely be “mostly sunny” and breezy in the valleys and mountains.
Lifestyle
‘Stranger Things’ is over, but did they get the ending right? : Pop Culture Happy Hour
Millie Bobby Brown in the final season of Stranger Things.
Netflix
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Netflix
After five seasons and almost ten years, the saga of Netflix’s Stranger Things has reached its end. In a two-hour finale, we found out what happened to our heroes (including Millie Bobby Brown and Finn Wolfhard) when they set out to battle the forces of evil. The final season had new faces and new revelations, along with moments of friendship and conflict among the folks we’ve known and loved since the night Will Byers (Noah Schnapp) first disappeared. But did it stick the landing?
To access bonus episodes and sponsor-free listening for Pop Culture Happy Hour, subscribe to Pop Culture Happy Hour+ at plus.npr.org/happy.
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